Interview: DC Vintage Watches

July 6, 2018, 9:37 pm

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I met Nick of DC Vintage Watches at the first DC Microbrand Meetup in 2016. At the time, I was already aware of him from his Instagram and Facebook posts, and I admired the selection of affordable classics he offered for sale. When he exhibited as a vendor at the second event in 2018, I got to spend more time chatting and was pleased to discover that he is also an all-around good dude with a passion for 1960's and 70's timepieces. What makes this avid collector and dealer tick? Time to find out...

Let’s start with an introduction. Who is the man behind DC Vintage Watches? 

A relatively uncomplicated man, to be honest. I grew up, as did my family, in the DMV area (that’s the DC, Maryland, and Virginia for the uninitiated) but when the chance came to expand DCVW to Los Angeles and its extraordinary watch scene, I jumped on it! Although we still maintain a presence in DC (and make no mistake about it, I still have incredible friends in the DC area I have known for decades), I am the public face to DC Vintage Watches, which means our social media presence will heavily feature Los Angeles.  Aside from the resident dork Seikoholic, I also bring a decent eye to the photography DCVW uses to sell its watches. I love photography, in particular, the creativity that comes with it and social media platforms like Instagram!  I share this passion with my sister, who is a much better photographer than I could ever hope to be. Another passion of mine is vintage automobiles, which I share with my father. While my boxy 1989 Isuzu Trooper is nowhere near as stylish as my father’s 1968 Chevy Camaro or some of his other cool vintage rides, I’ve had my Trooper since high school (with the mileage to prove it), and we have gone on insane adventures together in the intervening decades. Finally, I’ve always had a passion for knowledge and learning, a gift from my mother. I read widely and often, from books on horology to military history to political science.

What drew you into the vintage watch market?

Watches have been in my family for as long as I can remember. From my grandfather’s watch to my father’s burgeoning watch collection when I was in high school and after; all my family have either been involved in or interested in, horology. For me, my father got me started in watch collecting.  Vintage Seiko, as I have noted elsewhere, was my (and many, many others) gateway drug. I got hooked in high school and college on Seiko – hard. Few other watch manufacturers have the catalog of Seiko, nor the history for that matter, from the fantastic 6139 automatic movement of the Seiko Pogue fame to Seiko being instrumental to the start of the notorious quartz crisis in the 1970s with the Seiko Astron.Accompanying all of the above is the phenomenal vintage watch collector community. I have met amazing people the world over, all through a shared love of horology. These collectors don’t collect for the passing status a brand name brings, but from an understanding of history and the unique beauty, a work of art like a complex mechanical watch represents.

1972 Seiko 6139-6005 "Pogue"

I like the fact that your inventory is all squarely in the affordable range. What pieces would you recommend for bargain hunter? 

Most anything vintage Seiko. Although Seiko prices are trending upwards (unfortunately), there are still plenty of bargains to be found! Seiko’s 5606 Lord Matic or 7005 automatic series are great examples, which remain amazing values. Who doesn’t like to wear an astonishingly unique watch with a great story behind it? These don’t have to be named Rolex or cost $5,000 – solid back stories make for amazing watches, like Seiko’s 6139 Pogue. It’s no mistake vintage Seiko features heavily in our catalog of offerings on our website, as its variety of unique watches is hard to beat, especially for the price point.  But make no mistake about it, prices are rising for both buyers and dealers. Also troubling is the so-called “Franken” watches that come with the turf of increasing prices; unless a seller openly declares their vintage Seiko include aftermarket parts, make no mistake about it – these are fakes! Doing your homework will always pay dividends, and there is a wealth of knowledge out there on the internet to take advantage of (warning: shameless plug), like when Time Bum reviews vintage watches. 

1970 Seiko 6106-7100

What’s in your personal watch collection?

Not much of a surprise here, but a lot of vintage Seiko and Heuer! I actually get asked this question quite a bit, and my answer is always greeted with surprise (in particular from those that insist they “have a smartphone and don’t need a watch.” To each their own, but that’s not me, or DCVW’s customers. My personal collection has a little over 100 pieces, almost entirely from the 1960’s to early 1980’s; the Seiko 6139 and 6106 favor heavily within these, in particular, due to their dozen-plus variants for each. Yes, there are some quartz in there – a faux pas, I know – and these are mostly 1980s-era Heuer dive watches, which are incredible for their design and durability. Another of my personal favorites are so-called regatta watches – after all, Washington, DC loves its sailing. These are usually characterized by movements with five or ten-minute countdowns for timing the start of regatta races; I have several from Heuer, Seiko, and Memosail.  Finally, as I noted, I have a passion for military history, and this extends to horology. I love pieces like World War II Hamilton military watches, and the Bulova Accutron Astronaut and Omega Speedmasters, which the U.S. government (per Hodinkee and other watch sites) issued to pilots and astronauts.

1968 Bulova Accutron Astronaut GMT Electric

What is your current favorite? 

By far, my Heuer Autavia, Memosail Regatta chronograph, Seiko 6117 Navigator GMT, Seiko 6309 diver, and Omega Speedmaster 861. Each one of these watches has and will continue to remain a firm personal favorite for incredible life experiences I went through while wearing each.  I will never sell them for this reason. I think many vintage watch collectors understand this, the emotional attachment that one forms to incredible watches. I can definitely recall purposefully picking certain watches out on purpose, knowing I would be wearing it for an important event. For instance, my grandfather’s retirement watch, which I wore at my wedding. Despite it being a simple 1970s gold-plated mechanical watch, it’s my most valuable by far. While I don’t care much for gold watches, gold has represented enduring value and love through the ages, good and bad, just like my marriage to my incredible wife.

What are some retro watch design cues that would like to see in a modern watch?

Definitely some of the more outlandish color combinations we saw Seiko use during the 1960s and 1970s. Seiko also really nailed class and sophistication in their ‘60s dress watches and their pops of color on their 1970s 6106 Sport Divers are nothing short of amazing. Included within these were the Seiko 6139 chronograph series, which are also amazing. Seiko would do well to take cues from the popularity of these watches; after all, they haven’t shied away from re-releasing the ever popular 6218 and 6309 dive watches!

1983 Seiko 2C21-0080 Field Master "Contra"

In your time buying and selling, what was the most interesting watch you encountered? 

Hands down, it’s the 1980’s Seiko 2C21 Field Master, aka “Seiko Contra.” Although seemingly small at 30mm in width, it consists of two modules attached via a central spring bar and thus wears large on the wrist at about 60mm in length. One of the modules is a watch, while the other is a compass; it also had map wheel and LCD timer modules that the wearer could swap out. In the last five years, I’ve seen a small handful of these. We actually just sold one in the last month, and it took all of 45 minutes to sell (we still have the listing up at https://www.dcvintagewatches.com/product-page/1983-seiko-2c21-0080-field-master-quartz-watch-compass, with more detail on the uniqueness of this incredible watch).

1983 Seiko 2C21-0080 Compass

I wonder how new a watch can be and still be considered “vintage.” Do you see any interest or nostalgia for 1980’s watches?

Personally, I tend to draw the line for “vintage” around the mid-1980s, but this will always be a sliding scale as time marches on (forgive the pun). We are definitely seeing interest in 1980s-era watches, usually Seiko divers such as the 6309. Other than these (and excluding the Seiko Field Master), we aren’t seeing much interest in this era. Not yet, anyway.

Zodiac 106-21-07 "Poor Man's Heuer" and Heuer 981.106 1000 Professional Series Quartz

Give us your take on the vintage watch market. What’s hot? What should we buy now before the prices go through the roof? 

Seiko 6139 Pogues are insanely hot right now. We can’t keep them in stock for more than a week if even that. Right now, we have a waiting list with about a dozen people on it.  Aside from the Pogue, anything Heuer is also hot right now, in particular, Autavia’s and even quartz-powered Heuer dive watches. This popularity has extended to the so-called “Poor Man’s Heuers,” i.e., non- Heuer branded watches that utilized Heuer movements and design cues, like Zodiac and even Sears-branded watches.

As far as sleeper vintage watches, I would recommend pieces like the Seiko Lord Matic (for dress watches), or 6309’s (for dive watches), Citizen 8110 bullheads, or Omega Dynamics. All of these are destined to go up in price in the near to mid-term in my opinion. ⬩

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Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel “V”

July 12, 2018, 2:00 pm

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I was dropping off a handful of watches for service with Sam, the watchmaker at Afram Jewelers in Washington, DC and my go-to guy for repairs. We were talking watches, of course when I told him about a couple of vintage pieces I was reviewing. “If you write about vintage watches,” he said, “then you might be interested in this one.” He produced a wicked orange Bulova Snorkel 666 from his workbench. “Do you want to review it?”

Hell yes, I wanted to review it. The Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel has long been one of my favorite watches. I remember seeing this very model for sale by Analog/Shift in 2014. I balked at its $515 price tag, didn't buy it, and have regretted it ever since. Prices have only gone up, and my affinity for this funky little watch hasn't wavered.

Bulova started selling their Oceanographer diving watches in the early 1960's, but this particular design came along in late 1968 and had wrapped up by the mid-1970's. "Oceanographer Snorkel" was the official moniker although you will notice this model doesn’t have Oceanographer written anywhere. The "Devil Diver" nickname attached to Bulova divers as a result of their fate-tempting choice to announce the water resistance as 666ft instead of the more common 200m. They did the same on their Caravelle sub-brand, like this 1970 Sea Hunter we featured last year. Much to my surprise, it still weirds some people out, and I have even heard of folks finding Bulova divers that have had the offending digits deliberately scratched off the case and dial. You would think that if the number bothered someone that much they could have avoided it by buying literally any other diving watch, but whatever. I suspect they chose feet over meters feet over meters simply to print a bigger number (they did the same on their 100m/333ft divers too) but regardless, it is now inextricably linked to these watches’ identities.

The Snorkel has more than a little Doxa SUB300 to it, most obviously in its lurid tangerine dial but also in the shape of its case. Both watches have similar tapering barrel shapes with integrated lugs, channeled crowns, and a pleasantly slim arc in profile; however, the Bulova’s 40mm wide case is more compact than the 42.5mm Doxa, and as a result, the angle of its taper is steeper. A bulbous acrylic box crystal brings its overall height to 13.5mm. Both factors lend the Snorkel some visual heft, yet one would be hard-pressed to call it bulky. It sits perfectly on my 6.5” wrist.

Curiously for a 200m watch, the crown does not screw down, relying instead on a simple push-pull mechanism to compress the gasket within. It is in fine shape, showing a crisp coin edge and a debossed brand on the head.

Unlike many of its contemporaries, the Snorkel is all polished stainless steel, not plated base metal with a stainless back. This one seems to have weathered the years rather well, picking up no more than the odd scratch and ding and successfully avoiding the edge-dulling, value-killing polishing wheels of overzealous restorers. The dial, in particular, appears almost factory fresh.

The only real casualty of time is the bezel. On the one hand, the bidirectional mechanism still moves smoothly and is tight enough not to be accidentally bumped out of place. On the other hand, it is losing its paint. The glossy resin insert is an attractive feature. Molded, painted numbers and markers on the top surface and black and white painted backgrounds on the underside create a marvelous illusion of depth. Sadly, the white part has almost completely disintegrated and its starting to lose some of the black as well. I shudder to think how you might restore it. Assuming you could pry out the insert, remove the old enamel, and repaint the area beneath it (not a task I'd tackle), the original bright white would look too obvious at this stage. Copying its current aged cream color would look more appropriate but seems like cheating. Perhaps the best option would be to swap a better-preserved bezel from an unrestorable donor. I’ll leave that dilemma to Sam.

Orange dials like this are designated Oceanographer V. Introverts can seek out the more conventional G version with its black dial and black/red bezel. Me, I’m an orange guy all the way. The dial is great fun. Its the eye zapping color that grabs your attention first, but the hour markers run a close second. Towering over the dial, they are plastic cylinders mounted in what looks for all the world like four-prong gemstone settings, connected by a thin, printed ring. They must have been even cooler back in the day, lit up with tritium paint, but there is no life in that lume now.

A white minute track is printed inside the markers. The handset consists of a snakehead minute hand, a rather stubby hour hand, and a simple needle for a second hand, reflecting the relative importance of minutes over other measurements when underwater.

A crosshair intersects the dial. Up top, is the Bulova brand name in polished and applied form with ”Automatic” printed below. At the bottom, you will find the ”Snorkel” model name and the infamous water resistance rating. All text, including that in the framed day/date window, is printed in an all-caps, serif typeface that appears to be a variant of Copperplate (somewhere between American Gothic and Biondi). Everything is finely detailed and perfectly balanced.

On the flip side, you will find a simple (and tool marked) screw down caseback stamped with the serial number and manufacture date code. ”N1” means this one was made in 1971. This watch is still due for overhauling, so it does not have a gasket, but you can see the sizable channel into which it fits. Inside is a Bulova 11ANACB 17-jewel automatic movement, a true in-house movement made in Switzerland. It seems a shame that it is hidden away as it is nicely finished in gold with a snazzy “B” rotor.

This watch no longer has the original bracelet or rubber strap, so I modeled it on a generic 18mm Milanese mesh. It worked well enough for a wrist shot, but there are far better options out there. Perforated tropic style silicone would be nice, or considering that the watch's deep diving days are likely long behind it, you could fit a brightly colored leather strap to play off the orange.

Clean, serviced examples of the ’68-’72 Snorkels typically sell between $675-$1200 depending on condition. If a decades-old diver gives you pause, and you would rather have a new Snorkel that you can wear on undersea adventures without worry, you are in luck. Last year, Bulova re-released this classic. Based on the 1972 model, the Archive Series Oceanographer Devil Diver is available in a 44mm case for $795, and the more period-correct 40mm Limited Edition is $1495. Yes, you can get it in "V" orange. Production is limited to 666 units.

Personally, I’ll probably pass on the new ones and keep sniffing around eBay and the various watch forums looking for a nice bargain. There are still plenty of original Snorkels out there. It just takes some patience and persistence to find the right one. Personally, I can’t wait to see how this one turns out. ⬩

Bulova Accutron Astronaut GMT

July 17, 2018, 5:52 pm

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If you love a watch with a good story (and who doesn’t?) then you should check out the Bulova Accutron Astronaut GMT, a watch that featured innovative technology and a history of high-altitude Cold War adventure. Nick at DC Vintage Watches let me try a nicely preserved 1968 model for this review.

Bulova’s electric Accutron movement occupies a special place in watchmaking history. It was not the first watch to replace a mainspring with a battery, but it was arguably the best. I’ve owned a couple of conventional electric movements from the pre-quartz era. They used a battery to power a balance wheel and spring that gave them the inherent inaccuracy of a mechanical movement with the added inconvenience of the occasional dead battery. Add to this a reputation for fragility and you begin to understand why they didn’t revolutionize the industry like the accurate and durable quartz movements ultimately did.

The Accutron, on the other hand, took a different approach, replacing the balance wheel with a battery-driven tuning fork. This unit, the 214, vibrates at 360 Hz. The result was highly accurate (within 1 second per day), durable, and silky smooth.

Because of the watch’s name, you would quite reasonably expect my next statement to be something like “and that’s why NASA issued them to the Gemini Program astronauts.” Well, it isn’t, because they didn’t. In fact, I can find no evidence that any NASA astronaut wore a Bulova Astronaut, but that is not to say the watches didn’t get close.

The Accutron's qualities made it a solid choice for high stress, high-temperature applications, so NASA employed the movement in the Apollo and Gemini cockpit instruments, and the US Air Force issued Bulova Astronaut wristwatches to hypersonic aircraft pilots in the X-15 and A-12 OXCART programs. Hodinkee published a marvelously detailed piece on this last year, "In Depth: Bulova's Accutron Astronaut - The Watch Chosen By The CIA For Pilots of The Fastest Plane Ever Made". I encourage you to read the whole thing, but I need to give you just two quick facts. First, X-15s were launched from the bellies of B-52s and flew so high that some pilots qualified for astronaut’s wings. Second, the A-12 was the precursor to the SR-71 Blackbird and flew recon missions over the USSR at the height of the Cold War. Sure, the Bulova Astronaut didn't fly to the moon like the Omega Speedmaster, but what it did here on earth was absolutely badass.

Now that the history lesson is over, we can turn our attention back to the watch in hand. As you would expect for a 1960’s vintage piece, the stainless steel case is mid sized, measuring just 38mm across. The width decreases from bezel to case back, creating a “v” shaped profile. Short flat lugs tucked under the bezel point steeply downward so they only add 0.7mm to the overall length. From most angles, you would miss them altogether. 

While the watch presents a very small footprint, it makes up for it in thickness - 13.5mm thickness from the case back to the peak of its domed acrylic crystal. The taper in its case prevents it from appearing overly heavy, but the height does lend it a substantial feel and a healthy presence on my 6.5” wrist. 

There is no crown on this watch. Instead, you set the time by means of a hinged ring recessed into the case back. It is a novel arrangement that works well once you get used to the unfamiliar motion. Next to the ring is a threaded hatch to access the battery. When the watch was new, it would have been a mercury cell, but for obvious environmental reasons, that type is no longer available. Modern silver oxide replacements do not last as long as the mercury batteries, and their life cycle can sometimes be unpredictable, but they are the only reasonable alternative to keep an old Accutron humming. By the way, I don’t just use that as a figure of speech - the movement literally hums. It’s not loud, but you can appreciate the distinctive sound if you hold it to your ear.

This watch is in a well-preserved condition overall. The sunburst silver dial is perfectly clean; each of the luminescent hour and half-hour markers has fine black lines and apparently untouched original lume, the applied faceted markers remain in place, even the lume on the hands and GMT arrowhead is intact. Just the slightest bit of discoloration at the base of the hands betrays its age. I got a rise out of it with a UV flashlight, but as you might expect from a 50-year-old watch, the glow barely lasted long enough for me to snap this picture.   

The only real issue for me is that the silver color looks gold under most light conditions. I suspect this is a function of the old acrylic crystal and not the surface of the dial. The crystal appears to be original and is old enough that it has hardened considerably, making it almost impossible to polish out its accumulated scratches. Some might opt to replace it, but then again, an item can only be original once. I’d leave it alone.

Like the dial, the case has weathered the decades rather well. It shows signs of use, but nothing significant. All the edges are sharp and the vertical brushing on the sides shows a crisp, undamaged grain. Even the black and silver AM/PM bezel is intact, wearing only a few scratches. Watch nerds will recognize the Astronaut as a vintage piece right away, but everyone else will just see a handsome timepiece and likely wouldn’t guess that it predates the moon landing.

There is no bracelet included with this watch. Instead, DC Vintage Watches has fitted an 18mm strap in supple, pebbled brown leather and a minimal white stitch. The full kit also includes a NATO strap, spring bar tool, and a 1010 Series Pelican case for safekeeping.

The Astronaut is a fascinating piece. This one will run you $949.99. I have seen them change hands for less, but prices are definitely creeping upwards. A quick review of current listings shows a range from about $750-$1300, which puts it right in the ballpark. If you want a watch with jet-age design, innovative technology, and an impressive place in American history, a Bulova Accutron Astronaut GMT should be near the top of your list. ⬩

Announcing: District Time!

July 28, 2018, 5:54 pm

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Ok folks, save the date for District Time, a unique Washington, DC watch show!

This will be the third annual watch event organized by yours truly and Bill McDowell of McDowell Time. On September 30, 2018, the show will return to the fabulous District Architecture Center, at 421 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC 20004.

Formerly Microbrand Meetup, we have changed the name as we have grown and a greater variety of watch and accessory brands have joined, but our goal remains the same: to bring a broad collection of brands under one roof so enthusiasts can try and buy uncommon watches that they might otherwise only see online. Of course, District Time is free and open to the watch-loving public. 

Stay tuned for more information, including the amazing array of watch and accessory brands, authorized dealers, and vintage sellers who will be participating. In the meantime, enjoy some pics from last year's event.

See you in September! ⬩

Kingsbury 1983 XL Pilot

July 29, 2018, 5:56 am

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Sponsored Post

Kingsbury Watch Co. returns to Kickstarter once again, hot on the heels of their previous successful campaign. Their latest creation, the 1983 XL Pilot, is inspired by vintage pilot's watches from the WWII era. This will be a limited edition design as the creators are only producing 200 units.

Building on the traditional pilot’s watch aesthetic, the 1983 XL has several key features that wearers can appreciate. Perhaps the most impressive detail is the large and legible dial. The 1983 earns the XL in its name with a case diameter of 46mm, which is made using 316L stainless steel. Unlike many of today’s pilot-style watches, Kingsbury took care to dramatically increase the curvature of the lugs for a slightly more comfortable fit on smaller wrists. On the right side of the case we find a large screw-down crown, that is easy to operate and capable of supporting the watch’s 100m water resistance.

The dial itself is both minimal and highly legible. Large bold numerals adorn all hour positions, while a subtle date window sits near 3 o’clock. On the 9 o'clock side we find a 24-hour sub-dial that strengthens the overall military look. Dial text is kept very restrained and the adequately sized, classic propeller-style hands allow for easy reading. Over the dial is a sapphire crystal with a layer of anti-reflective coating. To help read the time in low-light conditions, Kingsbury added SuperLuminova beads above the hour markings and on the watch hands, which gives off a unique glow. 

Keeping the 1983 XL on the wrist is a genuine leather strap, with a black finish and black stitching. The 22mm wide strap, which has a thickness of 3mm, is soft and comfortable to wear and easy to put on. Instead of a traditional buckle, the creators chose to pair the strap with a stainless steel, butterfly deployment clasp (with push buttons). The clasp has a polished finish and has been laser etched with the 'Kingsbury' logo.

Behind the screw-down caseback wearers will find a Miyota 8217 operating the timepiece. This 21-jewel automatic mechanical movement provides 40+ hours of power reserve, allows for hand winding and proves to be a reliable choice for an everyday watch like the 1983 XL Pilot. It is also low maintenance and can be serviced by any watchmaker, so it’s easy to keep this watch running for years to come. 

The Kingsbury 1983 XL automatic Pilot’s watch serves as a great option for anyone seeking a versatile timepiece that is affordable and easy to wear. It offers a great balance of sporty and dressy design traits while providing wearers with a reliable mechanical movement. The brand’s Kickstarter campaign is now live and pricing starts at just $189 USD. 

You can view the campaign by visiting: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/176316475/1983-xl-pilot-limited-edition-watch?ref=6cuou5.⬩

This sponsored post is a paid advetisement. All content was provided by the brand. 

TC-9 LunarScope

August 6, 2018, 7:31 am

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TC-9 has raised their game. Now, don't get me wrong; I've liked their previous models, particularly the 1972 Bronze Diver I reviewed earlier this year. It's just that with the LunarScope Mechanical Chronograph, the company has taken a step away from their familiar tool watch themes and created something different, nuanced, and utterly charming.  

The LunarScope didn't get its name from any moon-spotting capabilities, but rather from the H.G. Wells novel, "The First Men in the Moon." It answers the question, "What would an Omega Speedmaster moon watch look like if designed in 1900? It is not a question I have ever asked, but it certainly a fun launch pad for a design concept. I'm pleased to see that they steered clear of any steampunk clichés and instead landed on a tasteful, old-world, instrument aesthetic. 

Let's start with the heart, a SeaGull ST-19. This hand winding, column wheel unit was originally the 1940's vintage Venus 175. In 1961, the Tianjin Watch Company bought the design from the Swiss firm, and it has been in service ever since. I have encountered it in several microbrands over the years, and it powers three watches in my collection today: the SeaGull 1963 Chinese Air Force Reissue, the Magrette Moana Pacific Chronograph, and the Marloe Lomond Chronoscope. The ST-19 will run 40 hours when fully wound, and features some lovely finishing, including blued screws, gold wheels, and Geneva stripes, all of which you can ogle through the sapphire display caseback. TC-9 gives each one a two-week evaluation to ensure accuracy.

Protecting the movement is a 42mm case constructed from the same distinctive red bronze alloy (not CuSn8) as the other TC-9 watches I have reviewed. It has flat sides, a brushed finish, and curved, tapered lugs. This particular review sample had been around a bit, so it got a good polish before it was shipped. Based on my previous experience, I know that without assistance it will develop a mellow reddish-brown patina. My only issue is that the edge of the bezel and inner edges of the lugs were on the sharp side. None of them touch your skin, so it is hardly a dealbreaker, but it does make the case feel slightly unfinished. I have taken issue with TC-9's tendency to finish the crowns on their bronze watches in black, but I liked the way it worked on the 1972 Diver, and I like it even more on the LunarScope. The crown and both pushers are black, which ties them to the black caseback ring, strap buckle, and bezel insert. There is nothing to complain about here; it all just looks so right.

The LunarScope is 42mm wide, 49mm long, and 14.5mm thick from its caseback to the peak of the domed crystal. It's an athletic piece, but its tapered and curved lugs allowed it to tuck in against my 6.5" wrist just enough to maintain a healthy wrist presence without appearing oversized. Water resistance is 50m, which is sufficient for a sport/casual watch, if shy of what one might consider a tool watch. This is fine, because, in spite of its rugged case, the LunarScope is so pretty you will want to show it off in more genteel environments too. 

The bezel is fixed and sports a glossy black ceramic insert engraved with a telemeter index. As far as I'm concerned, the only thing that can make a ceramic insert better is lume and TC-9 comes through. Will I ever use a chronograph in total darkness? Probably not, but who cares? It looks absolutely magnificent. 

The cream-color dial is spot on; rich and understated without veering too far into yellow or gold. It is a lovely complement to the bronze case, faceted rose gold hour markers, and long, lumed pencil hands. The 60-minute and 30-second subdials are silver, recessed, and textured. The subtle, low contrast cream and silver tones really complement each other. Their indicators are black, as is the second hand and tachymeter index that rings the dial. I love the fact that they engraved the logo instead of printing it. The "ghost" effect is yet one more detail that makes this watch so enjoyable.  

In true vintage fashion, the LunarScope has a Hesalite box crystal. Sapphire has its place, but if you really want a retro feel, only plexiglass will do. I prefer its warmth, authenticity, and the fact that you can easily polish out the inevitable dings and scratches. 

TC-9 chose lightly padded, tan Horween leather for the strap. It is the ideal material for this watch in that it is durable, well-tailored, and develops great character as it wears in. The buckle is black and engraved with the brand's logo. 

So, the LunarScope has an appealing retro vibe, a quality mechanical movement, a lumed ceramic bezel insert, a domed plastic crystal, and a premium leather strap. If you were to assemble a list of things The Time Bum wants in a watch, it would look just like this. Best of all, it is affordable. The 500 unit run sells for £425 (about $552 USD). The watch is in stock now on the TC-9 web store. ⬩

Undone Urban Tropical

August 6, 2018, 9:00 pm

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If you wear your watches, they will eventually start to show it. A nick here, a scratch there, a bit of weathering, over time they all add up to a unique patina. Many watch fans appreciate watches that show their age and I am one of them, but I must admit, that this affinity can sound odd. After all, watchmakers go out of their way to produce products that are identical to each other and free of imperfections and watch buyers are notoriously picky customers. So why would a company like Undone release a watch that deliberately looks imperfect?

Well, we humans have a strange affinity for inanimate objects, be they buildings, cars, watches, or anything we regularly encounter. The more time we spend with them, the more we tend to project a personality upon them. We love them, we hate them, we learn their quirks and divine their character. It’s a little crazy. The inevitable accumulation of wear and tear tends to accentuate that phenomenon because we can actually see the object becoming different from all its other mass-produced brethren.

The tropical dial is perhaps the best example because dials are the most prominent feature on any watch and aside from the movement, the most protected. Watchmakers go through great pains to make sure they are perfect when they leave the factory but heat, light, and air all inevitably take their toll. Watches from hotter climates seem to suffer the effects sooner, hence the “tropical” designation. Smooth black surfaces may go brown and spotted. White lume mellows into beige or gold. It is unpredictable and to a devotee of wabi-sabi, delightful.

Enter the Urban Tropical. Undone offers three main varieties: the lightly aged Amazon with its creamy lume, the slightly mottled Caribbean, and the grizzled brown Sahara. All can be optioned with silver, black, gold, or rose gold cases and bezels, stepped or tachymetre inserts, and a wide variety of straps. They gave me my choice for this review, and I selected a black case, black tachymetre, Caribbean dial, on a 20mm Mud Brown leather rally strap. This being Undone, you can, of course, add your own little flourish. I had “ttb” printed at` the top because “The Time Bum” look terrible on a watch face and I like the way the Palm Canyon typeface I selected made it look like an older logo.

I was immensely pleased with the results. A silver case and bezel might have been the retro choice, but I do love the look of the beige paint in the engraved index. I can’t bring myself to do it yet, but wearing down the PVD on the edges would go a long way to enhancing the illusion of age.

The dial was clearly inspired by 1960’s chronographs. Lumed bar markers and a finely printed off-white index surround the sunken 9 and 3 o’clock subdials (60 minutes and 24 hours). Unlike a real vintage piece, the lume is strong and bright.

There is a white date at 6 o’clock, which ties to the white baton hands, and, if you like, your own printed initials. You can choose black printing for that last item but I can’t imagine it would be easy to see. I requested the middle tropical effect option so the surface is still identifiably black with a patchy brown emerging. It is important to note that unlike a real tropical dial, the Undone dial is a printed pattern. It may look like the unique effect of decay, but it is neither unique nor decaying, so to speak. I have no idea how the dial will ultimately age, but its current aged look is an illusion, not the result of a chemical treatment or baking.

The case is 39.5mm wide (41.8mm across the bezel) and 13.5mm thick from the case back to the dome of the lovely box style crystal. I kind of wish Undone had offered it in acrylic for even more of a throwback look, but the hardened K1 mineral will serve just fine. The watch isn’t much larger than many late 1960’s chronographs (think Speedmaster Professional) and it fit my 6.5” wrist without issue. The lugs are slim and faceted and a signed, bun-shaped crown is a period appropriate touch. Water resistance is just 30m so you may wish to exercise some of caution with regard to immersing it, but you can approach water with more confidence than you would while wearing an actual vintage piece.

You have options for the underside too. Undone offers solid or exhibition case backs and both may be personalized. I went for unadorned glass. Some may question the choice to show off a quartz movement, but I like the look and the Seiko VK64 MechaQuartz is an oddly satisfying unit with the firm click and snap-back of its mechanical chronograph module and ruthless quartz efficiency.

Undone is, as always, generous with their range of staps, offering four styles of leather, Cordura, Perlon, and numerous colors of each. My Mud Brown leather has two linen colored stitches on each side and two-tone effect that gets darker at the edges, further embellishing the worn-in look. The pin buckle matches the case and is signed with the Undone logo. A quick release spring bar is a nice modern touch.

The Urban Tropical sells for $345 on the Undone webstore. Personalization of the dial and/or case back is another $20 per printing/engraving, which is a reasonable price for a customizable watch. Having owned other Undone watches, I have every confidence in its quality.

This watch is not a “real” tropical that is experiencing real-time degradation, but it does a nice job of capturing the look. If you like a tropical patina, but don’t want to wait for Father Time to do his work on your watch, or if you don’t want to risk wearing a gracefully decaying original every day, then the Undone Urban Tropical may be an ideal addition to your collection.

Origin Field Watch 2nd Edition

August 7, 2018, 8:45 pm

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[Update 8/9/18: Origin is now offering the Field Watch 2nd Edition on Kickstarter with early bird rewards starting at just $325, 35% off the usual retail price. The campaign ends August 31, 2018.]

Today’s watch hails from Memphis, Tennessee, where self-taught watchmaker Dennis Shirokov assembles the products of the Origin Watch Company. I met Dennis at last year’s DC Microbrand Meetup where he showed prototypes of the Field Watch 2nd Edition in white, black, and gray. Once the watches were in production, he loaned me this gray dial version to review.

Like the first Origin, the 2nd Edition draws upon classic military watches, particularly those made by Elgin, Waltham, Breguet, and Hamilton in the 1950’s, but while the two models share a similar inspiration and layout, the 2nd edition is all new and to my eye, far more refined. The numbers are smaller and printed in pale green lume, which looks particularly fetching against the dark gray background. The polished hands are also lume filled, and the minute hand is long enough for its needle tip to reach the finely delineated minute track. True to filed watch tradition, the Origin has 24-hour markers, but they pushed to the outer edge, beyond the 12-hours. A recessed and sunray finished small seconds dial at 9 o’clock adds a bit of flourish to the otherwise sober face.

I often complain about the text on a watch dial, but when not when it is done properly. There is more than ample room on the Origin’s dial, and the typeface is attractive: a slightly broadened sans-serif for the Origin brand name, and an appropriately old-fashioned, compressed serif with high contrast between its thick and thin strokes.

Keeping with the Origin’s vintage spirit, Dennis chose a SeaGull TY3600 hand winding mechanical. Based on the ETA 6497, this 17 jewel, shock protected unit beats at 21.6k bph and has a 40-hour power reserve when fully wound. 

Flip the watch over, and a flat sapphire exhibition window offers a view of its rhodium finish, Geneva stripes, and blued screws. SeaGull says the TY3600 is accurate within +/- 30 seconds a day, but Origin goes the extra mile to calibrate it to +/- 12 seconds per day.

The Origin’s case measures 42mm wide, 50 long, and 14mm thick. Those figures are huge compared to most vintage military pieces, but they are right on target for a modern man’s watch. It is comprised of three parts. The center and lugs are brushed, as are the crown and bezel, while the top and bottom sections are polished. My favorite aspect is the subtle concave curve in the narrow bezel. A domed, AR-coated sapphire crystal tops it off.

Dennis’s first foray into the watch business was Origin Leather, so as you might expect, he has selected top quality straps for the Field Watch. The loaner arrived on a lightly padded, 22mm leather strap with white stitching. Its warm camel color complements the gray and green of the dial. It has curved ends that hug the case and a signed, polished, 20mm flat tang buckle.

The Origin cuts a rather dapper figure. It filled my smallish 6.5” wrist but didn’t overwhelm it, and it slid right under my shirt cuff. A friend called the watch “gentlemanly,” and I think that is an apt description. I had no qualms wearing it to the office with a coat and tie. You might think this field watch is too pretty for the field, but its 100m water resistance rating and bright lume would indicate otherwise.

At $495, the Origin Field Watch 2nd Edition is a solid value that is well within reach of most affordable watch enthusiasts. If you live near Atlanta, Memphis, or Nashville, check out the Origin at Medikow jewelers. The rest of us can order direct from OriginWatchCo.com. ⬩

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Nodus Retrospect

August 10, 2018, 3:52 am

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Nodus Watches set a high bar when they released the Trieste last year. That watch delivered a clean, meticulously balanced design and top-notch execution at an almost unbeatable price. Given my admiration for that model, I was anxious to get my hands on their next offering. The folks at Nodus provided a pair of press loaners in Industrial Brown and Frost White for evaluation, (they also have a Slate Gray variant). You might expect something called "Retrospect" to be a line-for-line homage, but Nodus did not take that approach. Instead, they adopted some cherished retro design cues and updated them, creating a thoroughly contemporary watch.

The stainless steel case is 40.5mm wide, 49mm long, and 12.5mm thick, offering a nice balance between classic proportions and modern wrist presence. Finishing is top-notch. Circular brushing its top surface complements the bright polish on the sides, bezel, crown, and even the space between the drilled, angular lugs. The holes make strap swaps easier while also adding some sporting flair, reminding you that this handsome watch is also a fully capable tool; a message underscored by its 7mm, signed, screw-down crown. Water resistance is a scuba-worthy 200m. The caseback is engraved with some basic information but its otherwise completely unadorned.

The Retrospect's signature feature is its concave, "stadium" bezel, inspired by certain 1960's vintage divers made by Breitling, Rado, and Gruen. I have always liked this feature and even listed it as one of my five Retro Watch Designs That Need To Make a Comeback. Nodus has made the most of this uncommon shape by pairing it with a voluptuous double domed sapphire crystal, creating an appealing interplay of angles and curves. The crystal has a blue anti-reflective coating inside.

Buyers of the brown dial may choose a matching brushed aluminum insert or opt for the all-stainless look. The white comes only with contrasting black aluminum. The sparse, 60-minute index is engraved and painted, but only the triangle contains lume. Bezel grip is positive and its action is ideal, giving just the right amount of resistance as it travels through its 120-clicks without a trace of shimmy.

The dial appears to be set deep in the case, an illusion no doubt enhanced by the steep, almost vertical, brushed rehaut surrounding it. Dart-shaped markers perforate the dial, showing the bright C3 SuperLuminova that also lights up the polished and faceted dauphine hands and arrowhead second hand tip (blue on the Frost White dial!). Kudos to Nodus for making these last two long enough to graze the printed index at the perimeter. The white dial is solid while the brown shows a subtle sunray effect – maybe a little too subtle. I found I noticed more in pictures than in person. As with previous models, the text is limited and tasteful. Both versions have a 6 o’clock date window that matches the dial: white-on-black for the brown, black-on-white for the white.

Timekeeping duties fall to the stalwart Seiko NH35A, a popular automatic workhorse with Dishock protection, 24 jewels, 21.6k bph sweep, and a quiet bi-directional rotor. Nodus regulates each unit in four positions before the watches are assembled in their Los Angeles facility, and is documented on the warranty card.

All watches ship with both a 22mm, tapered, two-piece leather strap on quick release bars and a smooth seatbelt nylon NATO. Both straps have signed buckles but the where the one on the leather polished, the hardware on the nylon is brushed, offering a nod to their respective duties. I found both to be a comfortable fit and very much appreciated the way the sleek nylon tucked in tight, minimizing the usual NATO bulge on my modest 6.5”wrist.

The full kit is packed into a very handy olive canvas watch roll with two pockets. As I continue to accumulate watches I have grown to loathe bulky, wasteful display boxes. Give me a quality travel pouch any day.

Once again, the Nodus team has proven their talent for modern industrial design because name aside, the Retrospect is every inch a forward-looking watch. Its old-school elements are there to generate character and interest, not nostalgia. It packs tool watch capability into a clean, impeccably tailored package, making it a true “anywhere, anytime” watch that won’t look at all out of place when you need to dress up. Best of all, it is affordably priced, just $399 at NodusWatches.com.

It may be a cliche, but the Nodus Retrospect punches well above its weight. I highly recommend it. ⬩

How to Make a Gyroscopic Watch Winder

August 15, 2018, 2:08 pm

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Here is something you don't see every day. Emiel Noorlander, known as The Practical Engineer on YouTube, has posted a video that shows how to make gyroscopic watch winder. Now, I don't use watch winders myself because they take up space, use power, and needlessly run the tiny, intricate machines that are automatic watch movements, but I can't deny their convenience. This is a far more involved than any DIY project I would ever attempt, but it does look amazing.

I should note that Emiel has used a single-speed non-programmable motor in his winder, so his machine will run as long as you have it turned on and that is a bad idea. There is no reason to over-wind a watch like that and the damage it will ultimately inflict on the movement will more than outweigh the meager benefit of not having to set and wind your watch in the morning.

If you plan to try something like this, research your movement, determine the minimum number of rotations necessary to keep it running, and choose your motor accordingly. Other considerations include motor speed (rotations should be gentle) and magnetic shielding (electric motors produce magnetic fields and a magnetized watch is an inaccurate watch). 

Those cautions in mind, a modified version of this gyro could make for a pretty wild display. Consider this a prototype. If anyone builds a version 2.0 of this machine, I'd love to know about it. ⬩

District Time - Participating Brands

August 19, 2018, 1:32 pm

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Two weeks ago, I announced that yours truly and Bill McDowell of McDowell Time were hosting our third Washington, DC watch event, District Time, sponsored by Janis Trading Company. The show will take place on September 30, 2018, from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM at the fabulous District Architecture Center, 421 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC. It is free, open to the public, and loaded with watches to try, buy, and possibly even to win!

Which watches, you say? I'm glad you asked. 

Obviously, Bill will bring his very own McDowell Time collection (including the DelRay and the new Maxton). Our primary sponsor, Janis Trading Company produces NTH and Lew & Huey. Regular readers know that I've been a fan since the very first Lew & Huey and I have been particularly impressed with the NTH Subs and DevilRay, and the Lew & Huey Phantom. Owner Chris Vail will be there and if you have spent any time in the Watchuseek Affordable Watches Forum, then you know that he is a smart, witty, and utterly irreverent guy who knows a hell of a lot about watches. You can meet the man and shop his watches in the Janis Trading Co. Lounge at District Time. No, really. The man booked our private lounge. You're going to love it.

We also welcome our other participating brands: Aquadive, Caliper, Collins, Draken, Hager, Isofrane, Minase, Moduco, Montfort, Nezumi, Ocean Crawler, Sakab, Sartory-Billard, Tsao, Revolo, Ventus, Visitor, and Zelos. In addition, DC Vintage Watches will bring a selection of Heuers, Seikos, and other timepieces from the 1960’s and 70’s. Little Treasury Jewelers will have an assortment from small brands like Bremont, Nomos, Mühle-Glashütte, and Perrelet as well as the exclusive Grand Seiko line. Watch Gauge will offer their collection of microbrand watches which includes BOLDR, Reverie, Elliott Brown, Melbourne Watch Co., and Mercer, as well as special editions from NTH. Watch Limit will bring new and pre-owned luxury watches from brands like Omega, Brietling, and Tudor, and a selection of exotic straps.

Still not enough? Then maybe we can tempt you with the prospect of winning a watch from Vario, Scuro, BOLDR, or Nodus. Also be sure to stop by the AboutTime table and pick up your free magazine.

For those counting along at home, that's 25 participating watch brands not counting the selections of new and vintage timepieces to be brought by the 4 diverse dealers. It is a rare and wonderful thing to get this many uncommon watches under one roof, and I expect more vendors may be joining in the coming weeks. Watch this space and DCWatchShow.com for more information and updates.

In fact, there is still some space available, so if you are a watch brand, accessory vendor, or watch dealer who would like to be a part of the show, please contact me at DCWatchShow@gmail.com. 

DISTRICT TIME Vendor Listing

Lead Sponsor:

• Janis Trading Co. (NTH and Lew & Huey)

Featured Brand:

• McDowell Time

Participating Companies:

• AboutTime Magazine
• Aquadive
• BOLDR
• Caliper
• Collins
• DC Vintage Watches
• Draken
• Hager
• Isofrane
• Litle Treasury Jewelers
• Minase
• Moduco
• Montfort
• Nezumi
• Nodus
• Ocean Crawler
• Sakab
• Sartory-Billard
• Scuro
• Tsao
• Revolo
• Vario
• Ventus
• Visitor
• Watch Gauge
• Watch Limit
• Zelos

See you in September! ⬩

Ferretti Timepieces Amerigo

August 23, 2018, 8:55 pm

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Ferretti is an Italian company that is about to apply a Renaissance-era art form to modern watchmaking. Their debut model will feature a hand-painted maiolica enamel dial and will launch on Kickstarter soon. They let me evaluate their sole prototype for this review. 

Maiolica is a hard-wearing ceramic glazed with a tin or zinc compound that creates a bright white surface that is then painted. The applied pigments penetrate the glaze, which preserves the depth of the colors when fired, but makes every brush stroke of critical importance. It is nearly impossible to mask an error, so every piece is the result of a single take, so to speak. 

My familiarity with maiolica comes from my Italian family heritage as well as my more recent travels. Growing up, I recall my grandmother owned many antique maiolica ceramics, some of which had been handed down for generations. My mother displays them now and I am still amazed by their depth of color and the fine detail in their illustrations. Later in life, when Mrs. Time Bum and I traveled through Italy, we fell in love modern maiolica and returned with a full set of richly decorated dinnerware that has weathered 10 years, two kids, dozens of tipsy dinner parties, and who knows how many trips through the dishwasher without complaint. (As a side note, our dishes once prompted an elderly neighbor to ask, “You seem to like Eye-talian things. Are your people from there, or are you regular Americans?” My wife patiently explained that is possible to be both.) 

Ferretti watch dials come from Deruta, a small town In central Italy, which along with a handful of other nearby medieval villages, is the heart of modern maiolica production, and the place where new generations of artisans learn the craft. Applying the techniques to a watch dial required some adaptation. For starters, the base or “biscuit” is not red earthenware like my dishes, but an extra strong ceramic compound that can be formed into the thin, precisely sized disk required for a watch dial and still resist both deflection in the firing process, and the inevitable impacts that will accompany daily wear afterward.

That ceramic substrate is then glazed and painted. As mentioned above, painting is meticulous work, but all the more so in this case as the piece is so small that every stroke will be magnified. The artist who will create these dials is highly skilled in both the maiolica technique and working in miniatures. Once painted, the surface may be scratched to create texture. Next, a thin layer of glass glaze is applied, and the dial is fired at high temperatures. In the last stage of decoration, precious metals are painted on (gold, in this case) for the “terzofuoco” (third firing). Finally, the dial is fired one last time at lower temperatures. Ceramics are notoriously tough so the resulting dial will look the same for decades to come. It is unaffected by light, air, or any other form of natural degradation. You will never see a “tropicalized” maiolica dial. 

Now that I’ve explained the process, I’ll turn my attention to the watch itself. Its brushed stainless steel case is finished in a rose gold PVD coating and is 43mm wide, which is terribly small for a painting, but on the larger end of things for a watch, offering just the right compromise between decorated surface area and wearability. It is big on my 6.5” wrist, but those with a circumference of 7” or more should have no issue. The flat sapphire crystal will have an anti-reflective coating in production, although the prototype is untreated. Its push-pull crown is decorated with a fleur-de-lis and seals for 50m water resistance. 

On the back, you will find an exhibition window, the frame of which features an engraving inspired by the 14th Century Peri Reis map of the world. It offers a view of the Swiss made, rhodium plated and decorated Sellita SW300-1, a 25 jewel, 28.8k bph automatic with a 41-hour power reserve. 

There will be three models in the upcoming campaign. Two will be inspired by the cities of Rome and Venice. The review sample is the Amerigo, an homage to the famous Italian explorer Amerigo Vespucci, for whom America was named. It bears an embellished painting of the Italian training vessel “Amerigo Vespucci” against the American coastline as depicted in the Waldseemuller map, the first to use the name “America.” As you can see, details are rendered in gold using the terzofuoco technique. Each dial will be strictly limited to just 30 handmade pieces, and each watch will be numbered on the case back. 

Given the history of Italian leatherwork, it should come as no surprise that the genuine alligator skin strap is also made in Italy, in the Marche region to be precise. It is thickly padded and tapers from 22mm to a 20mm signed butterfly deployant clasp. Even the Alcantara display box is handmade in Marche. A single LED makes for a dramatic effect when first opened. 

I love the fact that Ferretti has employed such an important and time-honored technique to their watches, and have the utmost respect for the painstaking work that will go into their production. That said, I must confess that the final design would not be my first choice. It is too literally an illustration of something Italian, rather than a reflection of Italian artistry. Moreover, the busy image fights function as the brushed gold feuille hands disappear against the background. Ferretti has produced a maiolica ceramic picture of a ship that can be worn as a watch and for many people, that is exactly what they want. I wish they had instead created a more integrated design that infused the flowing patterns and vivid colors of traditional maiolica pieces into the more structured aesthetic of a watch face. Of course, each maiolica work is hand-rendered and unique. I would be very curious to see how different artists might approach the same product, and I hope Ferretti will explore this in the future. 

Pricing and early bird offers are not yet finalized but expect to see Ferretti Watches be around $1000 in the Kickstarter campaign and retail afterward for about $3000. This is no small sum for a new crowdfunded watch brand, but not out of line given the incredible process and artistry that will go into it.

A launch date has not been announced so if you would like more information and updates, sign up at www.ferretti-timepieces.com. ⬩

Gallio Tempo Trident

August 25, 2018, 9:21 pm

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Gallio Tempo is a new Italian microbrand seeking to put its own spin on the dive watch formula. Their debut model, the Trident, recently wrapped up a successful funding run on Kickstarter and has launched once more on Indiegogo. 

The Trident has a 42mm multi-part case housing a stalwart Miyota 821A automatic (21 jewels, 21.6k bph, 42+ hour power reserve, and Parashock protection). As one would expect from a diver, it has a sapphire crystal, a large knurled crown, 120-click bezel, SuperLuminova on the markers and hands, and a 200m water resistance rating. 

Judging from the photos, this is a handsome watch. It sports an attractive combination of brushed surface finishes and polished accents. The pilot style sword hands are a proper length and two-tone lume on the markers and dissimilar coverage on the hands (nearly the whole length of the minute hand vs. just the tip of the hour hand) makes for an appealing and highly legible combination at night. 

The chunky, debossed steel bezel is another distinctive touch, although dive purists might question the decision to reverse the orientation of the markers on the bottom half. They appear upright when the bezel is in its 12 o’clock position, but will look oddly off once it is turned. 

The Trident’s hallmark feature is it’s colored barrel. A set of interchangeable anodized stainless steel rings allows the user to choose a green, red, blue, or steel accent. Swapping is accomplished by removing the six Torx screws securing the caseback, which also serve to secure the decorative ring. Note that doing so unseals the case and exposes the movement, so it must be done with care in a clean environment. 

A diving watch needs a suitably waterproof strap, so Gallio Tempo provides one in padded black sailcloth from iWantAStrap.com. A selection of contrasting color stitching coordinates with the interchangeable rings. 

The Gallio Tempo Trident is available from pre-order on Indiegogo now. €195 ($226 USD) gets you a Trident with your choice of color ring and strap, a 35% discount off retail. €260 ($302 USD) adds all four straps and rings, a 40% discount off retail. For more information or to place an order, visit the Gallio Tempo Indiegogo page. 

Gallio Tempo will participate in District Time, a free and public watch event sponsored by Janis Trading Co., 11:00 AM - 4:00 PM, Sunday, September 30, 2018, 421 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC. 

Eoniq Alster

August 26, 2018, 1:15 pm

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One of my favorite aspects of this new, e-commerce world in which we live is the variety. No longer are we limited to the options at our local retailers. We have even surpassed the bounty that could be had through mail-order catalogs (remember them?). Now, you can practically access all of the goods the world with the right search terms and an “add to cart.” For some people, even that is not enough and only personalized, made to order products will do. Well, we demanded and the internet obliged with companies offering custom clothing, shoes, and most relevant to this blog, watches. I’ve already covered bespoke watches from Undone and Brüggler, and today, I’ll introduce you to Eoniq.

Based in Hong Kong, Eoniq provides several models ranging from the $168 quartz Alster Lite to the $468 Navigator-S automatic. Once you select your base, you will use their configurator to select every option: case finish, dial design, handset, strap, text, and rotor decoration. For this review they let me order up a complimentary mid-range Alster Custom.

The base watch has a 40mm stainless steel case, a double domed and anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, and a Miyota 82OS or 821A-21D automatic movement (21 jewels, 21.6k bph, 42+ hour power reserve, Côtes de Genève decoration). There is a small seconds at 6:00 and a flat push-pull crown at 4:30. The 3-piece case features a combination of brushed and polished surfaces and angular lugs set 20mm apart. It’s a solid platform from which to start and pleasantly slim for an automatic. Now the fun begins.

Choice 1, case finish: silver, PVD gunmetal, or PVD rose gold. Having more than enough silver cases already and not being much of a gold guy, I chose the gunmetal, a deep graphite color that looks particularly fetching on the brushed case with just a sliver of polish on the outer edge of the bezel for accent.

Choice 2, strap: too many to list here. You have several varieties of leather, as well as Milanese mesh and Perlon. To be honest, I did this one last, after the rest of the design was finalized, but I came back to the one that initially caught my eye, the tapered Sfumato red-brown leather with minimal stitching. I also added a lighter colored Cognac Brown Vintage for good measure. Both straps come with quick-release pins and signed buckles that match the case. They are thin and unpadded, which fits the proportions of this watch. I’ve been pleased with the quality of the leather, especially the pull-up effect on the Sfumato.

Choices 3 and 4, hands and small second hands. Ok, I have no idea why they chose this sequence. How do you pick anything before the dial? Regardless, your choices are limited baton hands so it's really just color. I went with silver batons for the hour and minute hands because they are slightly thinner than the lumed ones and a pop of lime green for the seconds, just because.

Choices 4, 5, and 6 dial, outer markings, and subdial markings. At last! This one took me some time because there are quite a few options. You have a Pac Man style cutaway in four colors, four with applied baton markers, and four solid dials with over a dozen designs for the outer ring and small seconds dial. They run the gamut from Bauhaus to field style to minimalist. I chose a solid dark gray with printed batons and a fat silver index. It looks great with the somber case and the pop of lime green in the small seconds.

Choices 7 and 8, dial text and image. Now, you can always choose a dial with the Eoniq logo (actually, even this route gives you a choice of two), but there is something fun about putting your own mark on your creation. Not having a logo (I need to work on that) and not trusting my line drawing skills, I made up a brand name and chose a scrawled, hand drawn looking typeface with a simple “Automatic” below for balance. The configurator allows you to size and place the text but also to tweak the typeface by stretching or compressing it. I rather like the balance I achieved here. So, what the heck is “Tempus Mendicus” you may ask? It is my bastardized Latin approximation of “Time Bum.” I tried writing “The Time Bum” across the dial and it looked ridiculous. It is a catchy enough name for a blog, but I’m well aware of how goofy it is and I didn’t want it on my watch.

Choices 9, 10, and 11. Rotor time! I went with the 82OS open rotor, but if I had an image and inscription to display, I could have chosen the 821A-21D with the silver, engravable rotor for an extra $30.

The watch arrived in a zippered leather travel case with elastic to hold the spare strap, snap tabs for the watch, and a pocket for the warranty card. For someone like me who detests bulky display boxes, this tidy package was just about perfect.

In the end, my watch was $398, excluding the extra strap. I did not select any of the extra cost options, but they are few and not terribly pricey. Considering that this was a custom order, I’d say the price was right on the button. The customization options are certainly not limitless as certain aspects are constrained by the model, like the Alster’s handsets, but there is more than enough to play with and the product os well finished and cleanly executed. Moreover, Eoniq’s range of base models should provide something for everyone. Not feeling creative? They have several suggested designs, but really, what fun is that?

If you are ready to try your hand at watch design, head over to Eoniq.co and give it a whirl. Then, when you are ready to order, use code THETIMEBUM for $20 off your creation. ⬩

District Time - One Month Away!

August 29, 2018, 9:00 pm

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It's August 30, and we are just one month away from District Time, the DC Watch Show sponsored by Janis Trading Co. The show will be held at the District Architecture Center, 421 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM, Sunday, September 30, 2018.

Chris Vail of Janis Trading Co. shows an NTH at the 2017 event

New Brands and Models

Bill McDowell from McDowell Time, and I have been working hard to make this our best event yet. As we mentioned in the last announcement, we have an impressive list of brands and dealers joining us. Since then, we have had some exciting additions, including the new Italian dive watch brand, Gallio Tempo, 

Phil Rodenbeck of Visitor Watches tells me he will be bringing a prototype steel bracelet Vale Park Officer, as well as prototypes of the next two watches slated for production: the Linden and the Duneshore Shallows. I got to see these last two a couple years ago, and I was pretty blown away. Having added a Vale Park to my personal collection, I am dying to see how Phil integrated a bracelet into the design. Knowing him, I am quite sure it will be something special.

Benjamin Chee, the owner of Chinese luxury brand Maison Celadon, has pledged to return to the show.  Last year, our show saw the US debut of the magnificent Yue Fei diving watch. This year, he will launch his new brand, Millésieme. District Time attendees will be among the very first to see this stunning, ETA automatic dress watch in person.

Millésieme isn't the only new brand to be showcased at the event. Sakab watches will be on display for the first time. Lesablier watches have just come on board and will bring their exciting day/night pilot's watch. Arizona's Fine Time Solutions (FTS) will show American made (yes, American!) quartz movements 

And this just in... Straton will be there with a table full of vintage-inspired racing chronographs.

Prizes

As in the past, we will end the show with our prize drawings, so even if you didn't buy a watch at the show, or if you ordered one for later delivery, you may still walk out with something new on your wrist

BOLDR will send a prize watch from their incredible line of tool watches. Nodus is sending one of their awesome brown Retrospect watches. Vario has sent a beautiful green dial Eclipse dress watch with the smooth-sweep Seiko VH31 quartz and some of their unique patterned nylon NATO straps. Scuro will give away their dynamic new titanium Volante skeleton sports watch. North Carolina leather worker and strap maker, Choice Cuts Industries has offered a fantastic leather goods prize package of a valet tray, 5-pocket watch roll, and a voucher for custom made straps. I've been a Choice Cuts fan for years now and I'll be jealous of the person who goes home with these.

Of course, if you prefer rubber to leather, that's cool too. The Time Bum doesn't judge, and Isofrane will be on hand to give away some straps. Isofrane's classic 1970's design, vanilla scented rubber, and sturdy Inox buckles are cult items that may well be the finest diving straps you can buy. The only thing better might be getting one for free.

Finally, even if you don't win a watch, you still won't walk away empty handed. Be sure to grab your free magazine at the AboutTime table.

See you there! ⬩

Updated Vendor List

Lead Sponsor:

• Janis Trading Co. (NTH and Lew & Huey)

Featured Companies:

• McDowell Time
• The Time Bum

Participating Companies:

• AboutTime Magazine
• Aquadive
• BOLDR
• Caliper
• Choice Cuts Ind.
• Collins
• DC Vintage Watches
• Draken
• FTS
• Gallio Tempo
• Hager
• Isofrane
• LeLittleier
• Litle Treasury Jewelers
• Maison Celadon
• Minase
• Moduco
• Montfort
• Nezumi
• Nodus
• Ocean Crawler
• Sakab
• Sartory-Billard
• Scuro
• Straton
• Tsao
• Revolo
• Vario
• Ventus
• Visitor
• Watch Gauge
• Watch Limit
• Zelos

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New NTH Subs Pre-Order

August 31, 2018, 10:34 pm

≫ Next: Luch One-Hander

≪ Previous: District Time - One Month Away!

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You know The Time Bum digs the NTH Subs series. I liked them in 2016, I liked them in 2017, and I like what I am seeing for 2018 too. On Monday, September 3, at 12:00 PM GMT (8:00 AM EDT) NTH will release the latest variants for sale at the mothershipJanisTrading.com, as well as the following retail partner websites:

USA - WatchGauge.com,

EU - SeriousWatches.com,

UK - PageandCooper.com, and

Singapore - Watch Wonderland.

[Don't forget that both Janis Trading and WatchGauge will be at District Time, Sunday, September 30, 2018, from 11:00 AM - 4:00 PM at 421 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC.]

Näken Renegade

The watches being released are the Näcken Renegade, the Scorpène Blue, the full-lume dial Näcken Vintage White, the Bahia, the Skipjack, and two new unisex designs, the Dolphin, available in Magenta or Ice.  They are also offering two special edition models exclusively through two retail partners: The Holland will be sold at SeriousWatches.com, and the Nazario Sauro will be sold only at WatchGauge.com.

Scorpéne Blue

Prices will range from $625 - $650 based on the model (see below). Delivery is targeted for late-October*, just 6 to 8 weeks from pre-order, with the exception of the Holland, which should be delivered in mid-November.

Holland

Now, before you think they are just the same old Subs with snazzy new dials, you should know that NTH has made significant improvements to the bracelet since the previous release based on customer input, including thicker links, slightly shorter links to improve and comfort, repositioning the center links so that those links can pivot at both ends, oval links with convex-curved inner surfaces, and softer edges. In addition, they have produced a new, sturdier clasp with a chamfered top edge, and twice as many micro-adjustment positions.

New NTH Subs:

• Näcken Renegade (pronounced “nehk-ehn”), $650. Optional date window. 
• Scorpène Blue (pronounced “skohr-pehn”), $625. No date.
• Näcken Vintage White (also pronounced “nehk-ehn”), $650. Optional date window. 
• Bahia, $625. Optional date window.
• Skipjack, $625. Optional date window.
• Dolphin (Ice& Magenta), $650. These are the first unisex designs. Optional date window.

Dolphin Ice

Special Editions

• Holland, $650 sold by Serious Watches. No date.
• Nazario Sauro, $625. A Red-white-and-blue, full-lume, California-dial exercise in needless excess. Limited to 50 pieces. Optional date window.

Nazario Sauro

Shared Specs:

Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel	Caseback: Solid, 316L Stainless	Display Crystal: Double-domed anti-reflective sapphire (internal double-layer)
Water Resistance: 30 ATM / 300 meters	Bezel: 120-click, unidirectional, with lumed stainless steel insert*	Bezel Insert: Steel with Lumed Markers
Crown: Screw-down	Case Diameter: 40mm (without crown)	Case Length: 48mm
Case Thickness: 11.5mm	Lug Width: 20mm	Weight w/ bracelet: 5 ounces/143 grams (with bracelet sized to ~7")
Movement: Miyota cal. 9015 Automatic	Accuracy: -10~+30 seconds/day	Beat Rate: 28,800 BPH
Power Reserve: More than 42 hours	Warranty: 2 years from date of delivery or 5 days from sale, transferrable with record of sale.	Bracelet: Sizable from ~5.5in/~14cm to ~8.5in/~22cm

*All the Subs' inserts are PVD or DLC coated with the thickest application. The black inserts are all DLC. The other colors are PVD.

Bahia

Model Specific Specs:

Bahia	Dial	Matte black with printed Superluminova "Natural" lume.
	Bezel	Dark Gun-metal gray with BG W9 Superluminova
Dolphin Ice	Dial	Silver sunburst with applied indices, BG W9 lume
	Bezel	"Clear-coat" stainless with BG W9 Superluminova
Dolphin Magenta	Dial	Magenta sunburst with applied indices, BG W9 lume
	Bezel	with BG W9 Superluminova
Näcken Renegade	Dial	Blue-to-black "fumé" color-fade with vertical brushing and glossy finish with printed BG W9 indices and minute track.
	Bezel	Black DLC with BG W9 markers
Näcken Vintage White	Dial	Full-lume C3 Superluminova dial with "rice paper" texture and printed black indices
	Bezel	Black DLC with BG W9 markers
Scorpène Blue	Dial	Sunray blue color-fade with printed BG W9 hours and minutes.
	Bezel	Blue with BG W9 markers
Skipjack	Dial	Glossy "enamel" black with printed C3 indices
	Bezel	"Ultra-Black" DLC with C3 lume.

For a better look, check out this introduction featuring a high-res 3-D of each watch and a unique video of all the new watches. ⬩

Näken Vintage White

Skipjack

Dolphin Magenta

Luch One-Hander

September 3, 2018, 10:03 pm

≫ Next: Avi-8 Flyboy Centenary 1960's Edition

≪ Previous: New NTH Subs Pre-Order

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Today's Guest Bum is Nikolai, an amateur watch reviewer from Belarus and a moderator of Watch.ru, the popular Russian and Commonwealth of Independent States forum.  He has provided the text and photos for this reveiw.

Many Americans may be unaware of Belarus. My country is typically associated with our Belarus brand tractors, MAZ and BelAZ trucks, and our countless lakes and spas; but when talking about watches, Belarus is clearly represented by the Luch watch factory.

Today I will take a closer look at one of the most popular modern examples of Belarusian watchmaking, the Luch single hander featuring on the in-house caliber 1801.1. The range of single-handed watches is relatively narrow, but some watch manufacturers offer one or two models or even their whole range with one hand. The Luch single hand model is perhaps the model most associated with the brand.

Looking at the box in which the watch is sold, it’s hard to tell that this is a watch box at all. The whole package consists of a piece of flexible transparent plastic with a shallow recess for the watch, which is closed by a simple piece of cardboard, serving both as a certificate and a warranty card. Since my watch was received more than two years ago, the package did not survive the time. In short, the packaging is extremely simple and doesn’t have any interesting features worth to mention.

The case is made from chrome-plated brass. Since the watch wasn’t worn that often, the case managed to stay intact, but I can’t assure you on how it will withstand the test of time. To take the photo of the movement, I had to open the case back, and although I tried my best to be gentle, it still resulted in some slight marks on the case. The crown isn’t made of steel either. Even with light use, it is showing obvious signs of wear.

The diameter without the crown is 38mm, 40mm with crown. It is 44 mm long from lugs to lugs and just 8 mm thick. The watch is on the thinner side, maybe among the thinnest watches I’ve ever had. The glass is mineral, with no observable curvature, so simply put, it’s plain. 

Speaking of the thickness, the case back is rather thin, but the watch isn’t for diving after all. The case back is simple, snap-in type, and is easily closed. The meaning of the number stamped on it remains a mystery for me.

The dial is white, while the markers and the hands are black. Legibility is great but reading time from a single hander requires some getting used to; however, after a couple of days it becomes natural. My colleagues had a good laugh wondering how I could read the time using just one hand. There aren’t any noticeable drawbacks or problems with the dial, but better not take a loupe. That lonely hand is simple and plain, nothing spectacular. Personally, I would have preferred a blued one. In my opinion, it would elevate the dial's appearance.

Inside, after taking off the caseback and secondary cover, you may find the Luch inhouse 1801.1 calibre. The history of its development goes back several decades. Since then and till today, this movement and all its components are being manufactured solely in the Luch manufacture in Minsk. Some say that the movement architecture was partly copied from German Urofa 542 or Urofa 54. What I know for sure, is that this movement is among the smallest mechanical watch movements ever produced in the former Soviet Union. and now this title can be transformed into the smallest mechanical movement ever produced in Belarus! 

Coming back to the photo the movement itself looks like it was cut by an ax. This is surprising because same 1801.1 movements produced back then in USSR looked more refined than this modern version. Anyway, since the watch doesn’t have a see-through caseback, the more important is the performance aspect of the movement. I didn’t have a timegrapher on hand, but from my experience, the watch kept pretty good time. The technical brochure which came with the watch specified a shocking accuracy range of +/- 90 sec per day; fortunately, my unit did much better than that.

The more recent single-handed Luch models, which I’ve recently seen, appear to have more refined cases and better-finished movements. Unfortunately, the cases are still made from chrome plated brass, so the transition to stainless steel didn’t happen. I hope for it to happen in the near future.

Americans can buy a Luch for a little more than $50 on Amazon, which is an extremely low price for this funky one-hander. The watch can be criticized for chrome plated brass case instead of widely used stainless steel, which may be a deal breaker for some who want to wear their watch every day, but it makes sense considering the price of the watch. Think of it as of a good souvenir from Belarus!

Clik here for additional information about the Luch manufacture and their novelties. ⬩

Avi-8 Flyboy Centenary 1960's Edition

September 5, 2018, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: TACS Automatic Vintage Lens II

≪ Previous: Luch One-Hander

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To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the United Kingdom’s Royal Air Force, Avi-8 Avi-8.co.uk has released a collection of special editions. Based on their Flyboy series of automatic watches, each piece honors a different era in military aviation. Their 1920’s and 1940’s editions have sold out, and they have recently released the 1960’s and 1980’s watches. For this review, they gave me a 1960’s model.

All of the watches in the Centenary collection share the same platform consisting of a 43mm stainless steel case, domed sapphire crystal, and a 21 jewel, 21.6k mph Miyota 8218 automatic with unidirectional rotor, 42-hour power reserve, date disk, and small seconds display. Water resistance is 50m.

The case has an appealing combination of brushed surfaces: circular around the bezel, north-south along the sides and lugs, and vertical between the lugs with just a slim, polished chamfer on their outer edge. A debossed roundel decorates the polished push-pull crown.

You might expect a watch with this name to look like a mid-century pilot’s piece, but you won't see any hint of Heuer Bund or Breguet XX here. Like the first two releases, the 1920’s and 1940’s, this Centenary Edition is not a replica of a pilot’s watch of a given era, but an original, modern design that adopts certain vintage styling cues. In the case of the 1960’s model, Avi-8 has taken rather broad liberties, giving the watch a raised RAF roundel at 10:00 to counterbalance the crosshair small seconds at 5:00. The largest numbers on the dial are the 0 at 12:00 and the 6, both of which occupy the twin rings that float over the main dial and its printed index. Applied brushed markers bridge the rings and are partially labeled. A crosshair design, offset model name and 3:00 date complete the picture.

Clearly, there is a lot going on here, and while the two-digit hours, sword hands, and roundels are military-ish, it is more about style than function. You wouldn’t find this watch in the cockpit of any nation’s air force, but that’s not really its point. This a fanciful take on the genre. The layering is fun to look at, particularly through the slight dome distortion and its blue-green color is intense. 

That wild translucent dial that strikes me as being more swinging 60’s than staid military. Indeed, the whole thing is closer in spirit to a 1970’s vintage Seiko Sonar than any aviator’s watch. That said, I really like the Sonar, and the pebbled plastic makes for a striking effect. You can order it in black too, but there are plenty of black watches out there. Why not live a little? If you want more than just a glimpse of its innards, you can enjoy the view through the exhibition case back. 

SuperLuminova graces the hands and markers, making it easily legible at night and sneaking in a bit of function to this otherwise style-heavy package.

The watch comes on a 22mm gray leather strap with a dark minimal stitch and pronounced grain that lends it a somewhat weathered look. The buckle is engraved. I found the watch to be an easy fit on my 6.5” wrist. At 43mm wide an 15mm thick, its proportions are best suited for casual wear.

I rarely mention packaging, and I am no fan of boxes, but I must confess that Avi-8 has done a nice job with this one. It is oversized, wrapped in a black canvas material, and impressively displays the watch and metal warranty card. Of course, once that is done, I suspect it will head right to the top shelf of someone’s closet.

1960’s Centenary sales have not yet started, but you can sign up for a pre-order now at avi-8.co.uk and get a bonus discount code. Pre-orders begin September 21 for £219 ($282 USD). As of October 3, the price increases to £280 ($360 USD), so if you want one, I’d recommend you get on board soon. ⬩

TACS Automatic Vintage Lens II

September 9, 2018, 3:06 pm

≫ Next: Borealis Sea Storm V2

≪ Previous: Avi-8 Flyboy Centenary 1960's Edition

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When I reviewed the first TACS Automatic Vintage Lens (AVL), I concluded that it was an enjoyable design exercise and the perfect camera lover’s watch, but perhaps not a watch lover’s watch. TACS has since revised the watch, further enhancing its camera connection. They gave me an AVL II for this review.

The changes from AVL to AVL II are more cosmetic than structural. While the case is all new, it has the same boxy shape and hefty dimensions as the original. As it says on the lens ring, the AVL II is whopping 47mm wide (46.6 to be precise), over 51mm long and 16mm thick. All the key elements remain, two-tone camera body decoration, rotating focus ring, strap loop crown guard, and most importantly, the multi-layered fisheye sapphire lens that is so convincing you may be genuinely disappointed to learn that the AVL II does not, in fact, take photographs.

As you peer through the lens’ aperture, you will see the 21-jewel Miyota 82S0 automatic toling beneath. It is decorated with Geneva stripes and a skeletonized rotor, but you will get a better view of these through the display case back. I’d consider the AVL II more of a fashion watch than a tool watch, but it is good to know it is water resistant to 100m. 

The most obvious change is the color, now a businesslike brushed stainless steel as opposed to the original gold PVD, which goes far to make the watch’s case look more like a camera body, as does the engraved AVL model name in the top right corner and the line detail across the bottom. No surface is left undecorated: the TACS logo lives between the bottom lugs, the movement’s beat rate (“BPH 21600”) is on the right side, there is a serial number plate on the left side, and if you like, TACS will engrave your own message on that flank too. 

To my eye, the most improved aspect is the case back. Gone is the odd collection of dissimilar screws in favor or four evenly spaced and of the same size, and the back now has the same dark, striated insert as the front

Changes that enhance the AVL II’s watch functions are notably fewer. The bezel and crown now both share an attractive and grippy knurled pattern. The bezel insert has a new red pip, which finally gives the bidirectional friction bezel a purpose. Like the old model, the markings on the inner ring mimic distance scales and correspond with measurements of time, but they are only slightly less random than those on the original. The two-tone baton handset returns, showing silver over the black surfaces and black over the silver, but oversll readability is just as poor on the new watch as it was on the old, and there is still no lume anywhere, making the watch impossible to read in any low-light setting.

TACS supplies a thick, 24mm Horween leather strap that shows a pronounced pull-up effect, adding a lived-in vintage touch. It terminates in a 22mm signed buckle. Quick release pins are a welcome addition but the most stricking change is a brushed stainless keeper, perforated and engraved with the strap’s dimensions. It is, frankly, a weird choice. Steel keepers look rugged, but serve little purpose except to scratch things you might casually rest your wrist against and “24x22 Horween” really isn’t information I need emblazoned anywhere.

Just like before, the packaging is excellent, consisting of a neatly finished wooden box with a warranty card the size of a 35mm slide (remember slides?) and tucked into a little cardboard sleeve. The watch itself arrives shrouded with a protective leather lens cap. These are clever touches that make the watch’s initial presentation special.

All in all, my take on the version II is similar to that of the original. TACS has done a masterful job of replicating the look and feel of an old analog single lens reflex camera - even more faithfully than the original watch - but has sacrificed some practical wristwatch functions in the process. Alas, that is perhaps the price of fashion. As for the price of the watch, you can pre-order one now for $440 USD at http://www.tacs-image.com/products/avl2.

Borealis Sea Storm V2

September 11, 2018, 9:19 am

≫ Next: Island Watch Taiwan ONE Diver

≪ Previous: TACS Automatic Vintage Lens II

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When Borealis introduced the Sea Storm last spring, I jumped on it. It was the right size (just under 42mm), had the right features (domed sapphire bezel and crystal), and evoked the right look (50’s Fifty Fathoms), for the right price ($300). I ordered one with a black dial and Old Radium lume, and I loved it. The first run of Sea Storms sold out quickly, so Borealis went back to the drawing board and whipped up a new batch, this time on a bracelet with some new dial and bezel designs. They let me have a turn with a prototype review sample.

Version 1 and Version 2 Sea Storms use the same 41.5mm wide, brushed stainless steel case. Short, tapered, downturned lugs keep overall length to a very manageable 48.5mm long. Vertical sides and a case thickness of over 14mm lend it a beefy presence. I hesitate to say that something wears large or small, because there are so many factors at play in that subjective assessment, not the least of which is the wearer’s own physiology, but I can say the Sea Storm sits comfortably on my 6.5” wrist and cuts a sporty, but not at all oversized, profile.

A screw-down crown and caseback seal the Sea Storm for a rated 300m. Both are decorated, the back with Borealis’ trademark angel, the polished crown with a debossed “B.” Inside is a 24 jewel Seiko NH35 automatic. A microbrand stalwart, the movement has a 21.6k bph vibration rate, hacking and hand winding capabilities, a 40+ hour power reserve, and Diashock protection.

Borealis offers four different dial layouts in blue or black, with post hands, BGW9 or Old Radium lume, and an optional date. My personal V1 has a Tornek-Rayville style black dial, RC Tritec Old Radium lume, and no date - a combination you can still order on the new model. It came on a 20mm black canvas strap, but I’ve since swapped it for distressed leather to accentuate the vintage vibe. The V2 loaner features a 12/3/6/9 dial in bright BGW9. Sharp-eyed typography nerds will notice the brand name is now in an updated typeface with tight kerning. It's a little thing, but I think it really elevates the dial.  

Both have a fully lumed, double domed sapphire bezel for some sexy retro curves. A lumed ceramic insert is an option on certain models. Regardless of which you choose, the action through the 120-clicks will be smooth and firm without any untoward movement. 

There isn’t a bad design in the bunch, but I think the standout is the biohazard dial. It’s available in black and Old Radium, or white with black lume and a ghostly white-on-white symbol. Why biohazard? I have no idea. Granted, there were some radiation dials back in the day, but this particular warning sign makes no practical sense, it just looks cool, and that is fine with me. I can see this becoming a microbrand cult favorite like the phantom Jolly Roger on the Helson Blackbeard. 

The biggest difference between the two models is the V2's bracelet. It's a brushed three-link with fitted, solid end links. I was pleased to discover that the bracelet was rattle free and there were no sharp corners or edges on the signed, flip-lock clasp. It more than justifies the V2's modest $50 increase in price over the V1.

Borealis consistently turns out watches that deliver amazing value for the money and the Sea Storm is no exception. Most variants are $350, and the Biohazard is $400.  Pre-orders are open now, and certain models are already sold out so if you want one for yourself, I'd suggest you head to the Borealis web store soon. ⬩