A couple of weeks ago, I told you about the Benguela, a new diver that Draken Watches was preparing to launch on Kickstarter. Well, we are now just two days away from launch, and I am ready to share my review of the black-dial prototype he sent me. I had the sample just long enough to get a good feel for it, and it felt darn pretty good.  

Like previous Drakens, the Benguela is not small. The stainless steel case measures 43mm wide and is a beefy 15mm thick. Hooded lugs make it appear even more substantial, although it wears surprisingly well. Bead blasting just looks badass. Like the Kalahari before it, the watch has the Draken name deeply engraved onto the side. This is generally not one of my favorite elements, but on this watch, it seems entirely in keeping with its aggressive design brief. The Benguela certainly doesn’t want for wrist presence, but thanks to some thoughtful curvature, it wasn’t at all unwieldy on my 6.75” wrist. 

The punch-engraved case back is simply outstanding. Those ominous tentacles stand in high relief. It is probably the best case art I have seen this year. 

A dive watch this big had better be able to back up its Thicc Boi* posturing with some solid specs and the Benguela delivers. It boasts a helium escape valve (red-orange-ringed no less!), knurled screw-down crown, 3.7mm domed and anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, and a whopping 500m water resistance. If you are a normal human being living a normal human life, there is little you can do to rattle this beast. 

Of course, it has a 120-click bezel, which its an impressive piece all by itself. It is one solid stainless steel unit with broadly spaced indentations that provide a secure grip. Note the angled cuts - a subtly appealing touch that makes the edge more comfortable and attractive. The markings are markings deeply engraved and filled, a yellow lume triangle at the top center.

Buyers have the option of two equally unflappable movements, a Swiss ETA 2824-2 or a Japanese Seiko NH35A. The Swiss unit boasts a higher, smoother beat rate (28.8k vs. the Seiko’s 21.6k) and, of course, Swissness. The Seiko powered version bests the ETA on power reserve (41 hours instead of 38) and is, as far as I’m concerned, utterly awesome. Moreover, it warms my heart by being $100 cheaper. There are no wrong choices here. 

All of Draken’s watches have featured cleverly detailed dials, and the Benguela’s is particularly fun. Toothy, bead-blasted markers like pop through the chapter ring to overhang similarly shaped cutouts in the sandwich dial beneath, which itself reveals a layer of vintage lume. The dial then sinks again at the center. The whole thing looks marvelously deep. The porthole 6 o’clock date window is framed in a bead-blasted ring, and the disk itself is lumed. Large sword hands (bead-blasted, of course) pair well with the oversized hour markers. A red-orange-tipped lollipop second hand finishes it off. Text is printed in a pleasing and properly proportioned typeface, the model name in corresponding red-orange color. It looks fantastic. Those chunky markers looming over the pools of lume below are an absolute joy.

I love the way Draken plays with lume. On the Benguela, X1-C3 is used to striking effect on the markers, and it also graces the signed crown. If you can’t read this watch in the dark, you really need to get your eyes checked. You might be blind.

I got a bracelet and two straps with the sample. For me, the standard 22mm bracelet was the best option as it looks best with the hooded lugs. It is a quality piece with more than ample links to fit those with sizable wrists — a reasonable assumption given the Benguela’s generous proportions. Quick-release pins make removal a painless process. It fastens with a signed, ratcheting flip-lock clasp.

The straps worked well too, although the lug design stops any upward travel, making it impossible to lie the watch flat. Both the 70’s style black natural rubber and beefy tan leather incorporate quick-release pins, signed buckles, and look great. Rubber comes standard. Leather is an option. 

The Draken Benguela is a blast. The watch is loaded with cool details, and the specs are absolute overkill. Better still, it is affordable. Kickstarter preorders start on August 13 with a special launch offer of $349 for the Seiko movement, and $469 for the ETA 2824-2. For more information and to get launch alerts, visit drakenwatches.com/benguela, and sign up for the newsletter. ⬩

*See Mike? I can talk like young people.

 

The Galvin Watch Company is a new Australian microbrand that recently launched its first model on Kickstarter. The Alku is a classically styled 38.5mm unisex watch powered by a Miyota 9039 automatic currently available or $499 AU (about $356 US). Full price will be $649 AU ($464 US). The Time Bum had a chat with founder Susan Galvin, a certified watchmaker with 10 years of experience in the industry.

SG: When I was 22, I spoke with my Dad about my future career options. I always loved art and had previously attended art school. My Dad suggested watchmaking as it is a "trade", which would enable me to travel the world as well. Once I started researching watchmaking, I immediately fell in love with mechanical movements. I attended the Finnish School of Watchmaking where I learnt my trade. The Finnish school of watchmaking is a highly recognized school and the curriculum is very similar to what the famous Wostep is to offer. I started the studies in the watchmaking school by making tools, then repairing clocks, pocket watches, and lastly wristwatches.  

TB: While the Galvin Watch Company may be new, you have considerable experience in the watch industry. Please tell us a bit about your professional background.

SG: After graduating from watchmaking school in 2010 I was offered a job in Manchester, England working for LVMH. I worked with them for 3 years before gaining a transfer to Sydney, Australia, where I worked for LVMH for another two years. In 2016 I started working for Omega before I was made redundant in March 2020. 

Omega follows a certification system in their training program. I visited the headquarters in Switzerland a couple of times and gained a level 5 certificate working with Omega. I have vast experience with working Omega in house movements, but also the mainstream mechanical calibers widely used by Swiss manufactures. 

TB: In your press release, you mention that you bring “much needed female energy to a male-dominated industry.” There is no doubt that the watch world is overwhelmingly male. How can the industry, and the broader watch enthusiast community, address this? 

SB: The watch enthusiast community has already shown significant interest in my story and the members of various watch communities have been very supportive, there's a clear interest in my work. There are many female watchmakers out there, especially in Switzerland, however society has a perception that watchmaking is a man's job, therefore I think it's on educational institutions to communicate the wonders of watchmaking to more women.

TB: I’m a big fan of microbrand watches, and have been baffled by the relative absence of watches for women in that segment of the market. I’d appreciate your thoughts on why this is, and how small brands can reach those buyers. 

SG: The Microbrand community is dominated by male watch enthusiasts, they are obviously the market. I think there is space for women's watches, this something I am seriously considering in the future. So I suppose again, it's about promotion and communicating with women that there are beautiful watches out there, made by Microbrands. It may take one company to break the mould, maybe it will be Galvin Watch Company?  

TB: In recent years, I’ve noticed that more women are starting their own watch and watch accessory companies. Given the traditional resistance to diversity in larger watch companies, is this the way forward for female watchmakers? 

SB: As a female watchmaker, establishing my own brand, I don't see any reason why female watchmakers can't break into the watch industry. My experience has been overwhelmingly positive. As mentioned previously there are many prominent women in the watchmaking industry working for both micro and macro brands. 

TB: I love the Alku’s size and based on your funding, I’m clearly not alone. Do you think we have finally broken with the idea that every watch must be 40mm or larger? 

SB: Traditionally anything under 40mm is a dress watch size for men.  I actually designed the watch so it would be suitable for both men and women; however, it seems the watch community has taken the watch to be a male dress watch. The initial idea behind the whole design process was to create a timepiece, I would like to wear myself. I wear Alku watches regularly and so does my husband! 

TB: Putting current trends aside, what are your favorite watch design elements? Are there any you would like to see disappear or come back? 

SB: When I started the design process with the Alku watches, the source of inspiration was an automatic Omega bumper watch from the late 1940s. I bought the watch from one of my training trips from Switzerland and gave it to my husband after servicing the movement on our wedding day. Obviously, there was a big sentimental value for this timepiece, but I also fell in love with the domed shaped dial and the minimalist design. I wanted to introduce those two features to my own design too. Being from Finland, I think the minimalist design is somewhat in our blood. 

TB: The Coronavirus pandemic has affected everything this year, including watches. Did it pose any particular challenges in getting Galvin off the ground? 

SB: My initial plan was to go back to the bench after the maternity leave. After I was made redundant, I didn't have a job to go to. Therefore I was kind of at the point "I don't have anything to lose". I think there is a lot of uncertainty with the Coronavirus, but I felt this is my time to give the business and my own brand a try. 

TB: Nothing to lose indeed. Your Kickstarter campaign has exceeded the initial goal five times over and it is only at the halfway point. Given the Alku's successful launch, what is next for Galvin? 

SB: More watch designing! After the Kickstarter campaign, my plan is to transfer my current landing page to an e-commerce website and build up my online store. Kickstarter campaign orders, quality control, regulating, and testing the Alku watches are going to keep me very busy and I have no doubt the days are pretty much fully booked by the end of the year. 

TB: What watches are in your personal collection?

SB: Omega Speedmaster, couple of Omega vintage ladies manual watches, Tag, Omega Bumper, ladies Hamilton vintage manual watch, ladies Bulova vintage manual watch, and lastly but not least, two automatic Alku watches. 

TB: What are you considering for your next purchase? 

SB: After a long history of working with the macro brands, I think it's time to take the watch collection further and start investing in more unique microbrand watches. As a good Finn, I think my next watch will be from a Finnish brand called S.U.F, also called as SarpanevaUhrenFabrik.

TB: Any parting words for our readers? 

SB: The Kickstarter Campaign is up and running until the end of August. I have discounted all the prices for the Kickstarter, so that everyone who is packing my project, is also getting a good deal as an exchange. As I have said in the Kickstarter video, this will enable me to start my own watch brand. ⬩

Today, I’ve got a rather dandy retro-style watch for review, and I do mean “retro.” Retras Watches let me try their debut model, a midsize diver assembled in the Netherlands with a Swiss automatic movement and bags of charm. 

The Dugena, not the Retras

The Retras is 38.5mm wide, 48mm long, and 12.2mm high with 20mm lugs. This is so not quite as small as many of the 36-37mm divers of old, but close enough to provide the right feel on wrists more accustomed to 40-42mm watches. 

The push-pull crown is appropriately sized and unsigned, another nod to the original. The stainless steel case wears a combination of finishes, brushed on top, and polished along its flat flanks. There are no bevels or chamfers, but given its slim profile, none are needed. Indeed, the case doesn’t impart the impression of height as much as the Plexiglas box crystal does, which I’d estimate accounts for at least 2mm of the overall thickness. 

Ah, domed acrylic ... one of my favorite watch design elements. I love the warm look, the shatterproof qualities. I even love the fact that it scratches because it takes no effort to polish them out, and over time, those imperfections become part of the patina. Besides, real vintage watches had acrylic. Case closed.

You may be more surprised to discover the watch’s bidirectional friction bezel. That’s right, two directions, no clicks. Also, the insert is flat aluminum. In an age where every other microbrand seems to have 120-clicks and some kind of unique material insert, the Retras may seem out of step. But remember that Dugena? This is the same setup and precisely what you would expect from a watch if that vintage.

Moreover, the Retras’s bezel functions just fine. Its polished coin edge offers more than adequate grip, it moves with just the right degree of resistance, has no rattle, and never once slipped when I was wearing it. In that regard, it is better than some of the modern bezels I’ve sampled. 

If the case sets the stage for the Retras’s authenticity, then the dial sees it through. No detail was overlooked. The distinct gray-brown (and depending on the light, a little green) sunray is exactly as it was on the Dugena. Same with the baton hands and the brushed tops and beveled edges on the blocky polished markers. The matching frame around the date window is a particularly lovely touch. Printed in white, the Retras name and Automatic designation do not detract from the rest. Creamy lume completes the picture. At a glance, there is no reason to think you are not looking at a NOS vintage piece. 

But of course, it isn’t a preserved relic. The Retras is a brand new, modern watch. Inside, is a Swiss STP 1-11, 26 jewel, 28.8k bph automatic, ready for years of use. The watch is sealed for 100m, which is more than ample for most water activities up to recreational diving, and likely 99.9m more water-resistant than a 50-year-old Dugena. While the lume may look elderly, it is fresh SuperLuminova. You can wear the Retras every day, even on your aquatic adventures, without the slightest hesitation. 

The watch arrives with a thoughtful collection of accessories. It is packed in a signed, soft leather watch roll with three pouches and a buckle fastener. You will get two straps, a tapered dark brown ostrich print, and a slick olive seatbelt NATO. Both complement the Retras’s beguiling dial. I wore it far more on the leather as I preferred both the more formal style and the sharper color contrast. Indeed, had I not been in COVID-required telework status, I would have happily worn it with a suit to the office. Still, as I have often said, a dive watch needs a dive-worthy strap, so I did appreciate the waterproof option. A leather key fob completes the package. 

Retras will make only 50 Dive Watches, and they are available for pre-order directly from the brand for €1199 ($1420). That may be the one thing I don’t like about this watch. Exceedingly low volume and assembly in the Netherlands (not China) comes at a price, but one that may make the average Time Bum reader balk. 

That said, if you do take the plunge, you will be rewarded with a watch that is damn near perfect in my eyes. It is attractive, versatile, and steeped in vintage goodness without any vintage fragility. For more information or to order one for yourself, visit RetrasWatches.com. ⬩

So what does one do after watching the Discovery Channel's Shark Week for seven straight days? If you are Time Bum contributor, Nathaniel DeNicola, you compose a comprehensive analysis of what would be the best Shark Week watch, and no, it's not the Alsta Nautoscaph (too easy!). Enjoy the journey as he takes a deep dive to discover a microbrand dive watch with vintage charm that is schooling us all on threats from the deep.

Nope, not this one either, although it does have a great shark. Keep reading!

The Ultimate Shark Week Watch

Chrissie was just going for a swim. An innocent enough skinny dip with a tipsy summer fling during the sunset hours on Amity Island. Who doesn’t want to feel that freedom, even briefly, of running uninhibited down the shoreline and diving into carefree waters?

But two things happened after ​Chrissie’s last swimin the summer of 1975: wise guys got to smirk about the life-saving properties of alcohol as Chrissie’s fling, in his drunken stupor, couldn’t reach the water and tumbled (safely) blacked-out on the beach; and Chrissie’s flailing grasps at a buoy guaranteed that those waters would never be carefree again.

Perhaps the most memorable opening scene in cinematic history: Chrissie Watkins (Susan Backlinie) introduces Jaws in 1975 and changes our view of the ocean forever. Backlinie deserves some retroactive award at this point.

And so 45 years later we have Shark Week, concluding its 32nd season as the longest-running cable TV event in history, and for many a clear highlight of the summer. You could argue, in fact, that Shark Week and its ​Jaws call-back came at prescient timing during this apocryphal summer of 2020. That the mayor of Amity Island serves as the perfect allegory for public officials weighing the benefits of economic preservation versus the imminent threats to public health. Even the setting of the beach has been a common flashpoint for this debate played out in real-time.

But we’re not here to talk about all that. We’re here to talk about watches, and specifically watch pairings. Because sure, “sharks are awesome, watches are awesome.” Now do any of them go together?

WWI-era Waltham trench watch in a gold case and NATO strap feels right at home on the beaches of Martha’s Vineyard. Photo here taken on the calmer sound-facing shores of Fuller Street Beach.

There was another New England watch company in the early 1900’s not far from Martha’s Vineyard located in Waterbury, CT that after iterations as Waterbury Clock Company and Ingersoll Watch Company went on to become Timex Corp — which in the 1970’s released its most famous model, the Marlin. Ironically the fishy-sounding Marlin is also not waterproof, but does offer an absurdly affordable mechanical dress watch; and every watch story deserves a vintage Timex reference.

The Timex Marlin wears naturally with lobster plates - from fine dining to rolls on the beach - and helps you afford those meals too!

And finally, a vintage Northeastern watch also known to these waters — the delightfully decorated Bulova Sea King. When first released in 1959 this model actually was intended for water-resistance (hence the name) but you shouldn't test that now. No, for today’s wear these vintage pieces from mostly the mid-60’s through early-70’s offer a sporty, versatile look packaged in pleasing, lightweight dimensions, and often adorned with that charming whale that makes you feel like you’re in Nantucket (though Bulova uniquely still has US headquarters in New York and a case factory in Sag Harbor - some speculate the whale logo was introduced in 1966 in tribute to the 100th anniversary of the Whaling Festival of Sag Harbor).

My brother, Ryan, sporting his 1970 Bulova Sea King next to a giant sea anemone! (Or perhaps a cactus...). Even by modern standards this 35 mm case fits naturally - makes you start to understand the 36mm trend.

The Life Aquatic

Ok, on to the divers! Just as ​Jaws first hooked us on sharks in the 1970s (which we devoured - line and sinker), it was Jacque Cousteau and his team on the ​Calypso who first enchanted us with the ocean’s wonders of the deep (true to its namesake nymph, Calypso, who ensorcelled Odysseus on his sea voyage). And it’s no hyperbole to say that the early dive watches were an essential pairing to Cousteau’s aqualung invention — which allowed him to show us marine life like never before; including the shark.

And if you can get your hands on Cousteau’s original 1953 diver model that he wore in his first film, ​Silent World — therefore an OG of all dive watches — then, of course, the vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is an ultimate watch for Shark Week or any week at all. But you’d probably need a silent partner at a silent auction to land this S​ilent World​ star.

Of course, Cousteau went on to wear numerous other dive watches, and separately other companies have their own origin story for why their dive watch was the first to accompany the emergent SCUBA lifestyle (you can hear the tales echoing now, “Omega... no Panerai... it didn't matter until Rolex and Bond”) — all of which spawned the most popular type of modern watch with more reissues and homages than salt in the ocean. Too many to cover here, particularly at the luxury price point.

Let the original dive watch debate begin— it’s hard to argue with the watch Cousteau paired with his first film “Silent World.” (Photo credit: PBS)

But there is one watch perfectly placed at a value proposition that still pays tribute to Cousteau and his maritime legacy, in a way — the VOSTOK Amphibia line originally designed for Russian aquanauts in the late 1960’s. Wait, but Cousteau was French? Yes, but of course. These watches were never actually worn by Cousteau and the ​Calypso crew. They do however have their own fascinating backstory and come with a modern, affordable, whimsical lineup: from “SCUBA Dude” to “Zissou Special Addition.” The later, obviously, was worn by Bill Murray and the Zissou crew in Wes Anderson’s tribute film to Cousteau, ​The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou.​

The VOSTOK Amphibia Zissou gives you an in-house automatic movement with a rich history and a fun story at right around $100. Easy to understand their cult following — including by my brother, Matthew, who provided his favorite shot here.

Yum Yum Yellow and Aquamarine

If there is one company to specifically associate with Jacque Cousteau then perhaps it should be the only company he ever officially endorsed, Doxa. This company and the Doxa sub need no further introduction here, but it’s worth considering a bit of their legacy beyond popular dive watch models like the “Sharkhunter,” aptly named to wear during Shark Week.

The Doxa Sub 300T packs a ton of color and legacy for its price point (Photo credit: Doxa watch company).

While difficult to sort out exactly when certain color schemes originated, the Doxa sub deserves some credit for popularizing the vibrant color schemes we now associate with the dive watch zeitgeist. And these colors have been incorporated into new microbrands (clearly invested in the diver model) and some tribute watches that might have ducked under the sub’s radar.

One such watch is the Hawaiian Lifeguard Association watch — ​released in 2018by Time Concepts (actually headquartered in California) this robust waterproof quartz watch honors the 100th anniversary of the Hawaiian Lifeguard Association and donates proceeds to its mission. Hard to imagine a group who thinks more about shark encounters on a daily basis.

Now, interestingly, this specific color scheme may not be ideal for repelling sharks as many SCUBA videographers have dubbed it “yum yum yellow” for how often sharks seemed interested in the equipment of that color. Others speculate however that the contrast in colors, not the color itself, and the electrical impulses from the devices (and generally just having a foreign object being shoved near their face) are more responsible for sharks’ exploratory bites.

Hawaiian Lifeguard Association watch worn in Laguna Beach with surfers and skimboarders. This was before I read all about yum yum yellow...

The other watch colorway that seems instantly associated with summer is aquamarine, or just aqua, also popularized by shark-seeking subs like the Doxa line. While there are numerous such examples, perhaps an under-appreciated one is the 2019 release from Vaer watches of Venice Beach, CA. This microbrand offers the ​American-assembled A5 in several colorways, the most recognizable might be the white dial with faint blue numerals that certainly look aqua when hit with lume or when catching a patch of shade in the daylight.

Vaer American-assembled A5 on aqua Barton silicon strap overlooking the Queen Mary in Long Beach harbor — home to dual horror threats: sharks and ghosts. Now there’s a Sharknadao sequel I’d watch.

The Dark Seal Returns

Speaking of microbrands, there’s another sea-faring California sport watch worth highlighting here — with its luring bezel and a catching tale of sharks, seals, and a skiff. When Michael Seals, owner of Seals Watch Company, released the ​Dark Seal collectionyou might have assumed a self-reference; maybe on a bad day? And in fact, that’s close to the truth — but not how you’d think. As Michael has relayed his sea adventure to me, it’s quite a harrowing story.

Long before he dealt in watches, Michael worked for the Catalina harbor department that involved clearing seaweed up and down the coast. This work took him out to sea on his customized 5-horse power skiff where he would encounter all kinds of marine life. Often these encounters were friendly in nature, as they were with a local harbor seal he came to recognize and regularly feed with frozen fish. But sometimes they were quite the opposite — and no one is ever truly prepared to come face to face with that dorsal fin piercing the deep blue water, even from the safety of a boat.

Rather than stick around to see what was connected to that fin, Michael “employed all 5 horses that boat could offer and headed for the coastline.” Aiding in his retreat was that friendly “dark seal” who seemingly appeared out of nowhere and distracted the large-finned animal by darting back and forth under his boat and eventually heading toward the bay.

Now, this is no story of food chains and self-sacrifice. Not only did Michael see his blubbery friend safely back in the harbor, but he continued to feed him frozen snacks for many years. After that, how could he not?

This picture of the Seals Watch Co. Dark Seal Sport with a rotating bezel set against a National Geographic photo of a mako shark likely represents exactly how Michael felt that day. Every watch deserves a good story.

Independent from the story (which honestly is enough to catch my attention) there is much to admire in the Dark Seal line, which has been covered ​previously on this site.In particular, the fixed bezel model delivers a unique take on a dressy sport watch (or maybe a sporty dress watch?) with that captivating brushed bezel that mimics a lure in the right light. This is certainly a good thing to my eye — but much like the yum yum yellow, sharks have been known to agree.

Seals Watch Co. Dark Seal fixed bezel blue dial pictured with Henry Dana’s “Two Years Before The Mast.” Alluring in almost any light. If you enjoy word searches you might find another Catalina connection.

Shark!

Then, there is an actual Shark watch. If you know the parent company, Freestyle USA, there isn’t much more that needs to be said. These water-sport watches were designed for California surfers in the late 1980s and still may be the quintessential late 80’s-early 90’s throwback. They continue to be offered in those original neon colors which also adds some sentimental value for many of us who had these as our first ever wristwatch.

Not to mention, they are stellar watches for the water — complete with boogie board/surfboard style Velcro straps and newer tide models that, well, track the tide. They are also the only company with a ​direct collaboration with Shark Week​, which adds to their current brand endorsements from the world’s top female surfers.

When my grade school friend Jimmy told me about his Shark watch that he picked up recently on vacation in Hawaii, I went straight to the website in search of my original 1989 version. If this isn’t it, it’s darn close, and wore perfectly when bodysurfing in Del Mar, CA.

Apex Predators and the Largest Living Thing

You can’t have an essay about Shark Week in 2020 and not mention some sobering statistics. In the 45 years since ​Jaws introduced us to the horrors of a shark attack and police chief Brody yelled, “smile!” it’s actually been a rather one-sided contest.

You probably know the odds are stacked in our favor. By the numbers (1 in 11.5 million for attack, 1 in 264 million for fatality) our risk is so low the notion becomes a go-to punchline — the “more likely to be killed by” game includes random things falling from the sky like coconuts and air conditioner units (but not sharks caught in a tornado). During the 2014 World Cup economists calculated that you were, in fact, ​more likely to be bitten by footballer Luis Suarez than a shark.​

You might not know the other side of the equation — it’s equally absurd. In 2019 humans killed, by conservative calculations, 100 million sharks. That’s 12,000 per hour. And, okay, but isn’t the ocean pretty big? Do we really need to go there?

Well, we do. Because there’s another dynamic most people know in general but might not have internalized in specifics — that is the balance of ecosystems. Notice I didn’t say delicate. There’s nothing delicate about 200 deaths per minute. No, the decimation of the world’s shark populations has taken a bite out of another apex being — the world’s largest living thing.

It’s almost instinctive that this bleached coral isn’t healthy. We should trust those instincts. (Photo credit: NRDC.org)

In science, the concept of interdependent ecosystems is best understood as what’s called “emergence” — and its under emergent threat. When an apex predator goes away it doesn’t just leave more room for the rest. Instead, it promotes the overgrowth of the mesopredators (mid-level attackers) which in turn plummets downstream feeders.

So in Australia when overfishing killed off the sharks, the mesopredator snappers became overgrown, who quieted the parrotfish, who could no longer eat the toxic algae, that then overtook the Great Barrier Reef. Subsequently, for this and other reasons like warming ocean currents, in 2017 the Great Barrier Reef was pronounced dead. What was once very recently the answer to “what is the world’s largest living thing?” is now the poster for toxic, deadly emergence.

You’re up Humongous Fungus (Armillaria ostoyae​).

Ocean Conservation in the Watch Food Chain

All of this is so stay — ocean health in general and shark population dynamics specifically have become paramount more than ever, and Shark Week offers the perfect summer respite to take some notice of protecting the beaches and sea animals we all love so much much.

One model of the Watch Food Chain (in fact the only model I’ve come across). You won’t find many of the watches discussed here on this chart. (Photo credit: private Facebook group)

At the top of the pyramid, to their credit, the luxury watches have contributed. There are examples of straps and cases made from recycled plastic (​Alpina Seastrong Diver Gyre​), of genuine conservancy partnerships (Breitling Superocean Heritage joined with ​OceanConservancy)​ , and awareness campaigns (Doxa with ​Project Aware​) with high profile spokespersons (​the Cousteau family continuesa charitable partnership with Doxa). And this is needed; every bit counts.

But even with a deep dive (come on, I waited for 2,000 words to make that splash), it is much more common to encounter among these apex brands a limited edition watch with a sea creature etched on the case back and rather vague references to missions that “explore the ocean” rather than direct efforts at conservation. When you consider the vast resources available to these brands, it starts to look more like dipping their toes rather than diving in head first.

Let’s see how the meso-brands compare.

A true leader, Oris has purposefully navigated its course for ​reviving the dying coral reefs​, removing the ocean’s plastic waste,​ and even charted a ​fresh approach to saving Lake Baikal​. (Much respect if you got that pun). Lake Baikal holds 20% of the world’s fresh water supply, the largest single collection on earth.

The Oris Aquis devoted to conserving freshwater powerhouse Lake Baikal. While this lake is not home to sharks, worldwide there are at least 7 such euryhaline shark species that can swim in both waters. (Photo credit: Oris Watch)

Now let’s not debate where exactly Seiko falls in the food chain. Agreed, they have as much heritage as ​any brand and the Grand Seiko belongs in an upper tier. For this exercise we’re drawing attention to how much they have done with their “Save The Ocean” Prospex offered at arathermodest$500range. Notonlydotheyfindroominthisminowybudgettocontributeto ocean conservation but, like Doxa, they have earned the respect of the Cousteau family and partnered with ​Fabian Cousteau’s Ocean Learning Center.​

Plus that blue dial!

My friend, Jimmy, showing off his Save The Ocean Seiko Prospex and that mesmerizing blue dial. The rivets, intended to mirror the belly of humpback whales, provide a unique azul ombré gradient.

Bottom of the field, top of the class

Well, if you concede that Seiko gets a little extra credit for donating proceeds on a budget-friendly watch, you’re in for a surprise breach attack. There are several young, independent microbrands that make these contributions on similar budgets without the large corporate safety net (not that there’s anything wrong with that). And one such watch deserves recognition here.

Lorier​, founded by husband and wife team Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega, already have something of name recognition among the microbrand community. Proof? Their recent Worn & Wound

Limited Edition Gemini chronograph sold out under 60 seconds. That’s enough for me. (And yes I’m ok citing this example because I was one of the lucky few to land one!).

When you get a chronograph you really love you end up timing all sorts of things — like how long it actually takes to make coffee. Made a few pots doing research here.

Without question, the basis for the success has been broad approval of their high-quality product at, really, and unbeatable price. But this tantalizing value isn’t just from savvy production deals. It’s part of a brand ethos that lies at the core of their services.

The Lorier Neptune Series II overlooking the Kennedy Center along the Potomac river. A different type of shark is known to roam these regions.

Emergence Training

If Chrissie were to make that swim again in 2020 she’d be, literally, a million times more likely to be wrangled by plastic waste than a squalene predator.

And sure, you can say that such cleanup work isn’t the mission of watches. Then again, it’s not entirely foreign to watches either. For the better part of 50 years, the watch industry has profited mightily off the actual act of diving into ocean waters and then selling that vision as an important archetype. It’s not entirely unreasonable to look to them to protect the waters that have been so bountiful to them over the years.

For now, during Shark Week, we can recognize that at least a few companies are defining their role in ocean conservation, and none more substantially that the microbrands like Lorier. They may have gone into the watch business, but an educator never stops teaching.

I have long hoped some intrepid microbrand would produce an affordable homage. Well, today is the day! The prolific team at Undone has just launched the Aero, and I was lucky enough for them to give me one of my own in exchange for this hands-on review. 

An original WW2-issue LeCoultre sold by ClassicWatch.com

The platform for Undone's project is its excellent Basecamp model. As I have mentioned before, the pleasing vintage-inspired proportions, sound Seiko NH35 automatic movement, 100m water resistance, and domed Lexan Polycarbonate crystal make this my favorite of all the Undones. Everything about it just feels right. 

The original Weems watches were anywhere from 27mm on up, but most were in the 33mm range. Of course, 33mm is a hard sell these days, so I am perfectly pleased with the 40mm Undone case. It is large enough to fit the modern tool watch fashion, but not grotesquely so. I find the 40x48x12mm dimensions (actually 15mm thick once you factor that sweet dome) to be just right on my 6.75" wrist. The generous bezel-to-dial ratio also makes it appear slightly smaller at a glance.

Like the other Basecamp versions, this one wears a brushed top and polished sides with a neat bevel bisecting the two surfaces. It uses the same signed, octagonal, screw-down crown as the others, and this is perhaps the one thing I had hoped they might change. Not that there is anything wrong with it, mind you. Despite its odd shape, it operates quite easily. I just would have preferred a coin-edge on this one to better suit the overall throwback quality of the design. I know it's not a big deal, but I had to throw it out there. 

Back to the original Weems for a moment. P.V.H Weems devised the rotating bezel to track seconds. At aircraft speeds, a miscalculation of several seconds could put the pilot hundreds of miles off course. With the Weems system, the pilot could synchronize his watch to a GMT radio signal, then lock the bezel in place. The 2 o'clock crown that performs the locking function was always larger than the primary crown, and so it is here as well. As on the originals, the wide bezel is all steel, with an engraved and painted seconds index. The red "60" is a nice touch. Of course, the bezel functioned perfectly, moving smoothly in both directions and easily locking in place. 

Undone offers two versions of the Aero. The black dial Commando features blunt post hands and a more familiar pilot's watch layout with a navigation triangle, and a field watch style 24-hour index printed in red. The Scientific, which I received, has a cream dial, Arabic numerals for the primary hours, and blued syringe hands. Both incorporate elements of original Weems dials while adding a novel Undone twist. Of the two, I think the cream Scientific is more distinctive than the Commando's more common military layout. 

Working from the perimeter inward, you will notice a cream ring that gives way to silver inset seconds track before the mail dial resumes with another index and the lumed hour markers. Finally, you reach the primary markers in the most central section. These concentric indices enhance the illusion that the Aero Scientific is smaller than its 40mm diameter, without sacrificing its modern wrist presence. Nothing clutters the dial. The only text is "Self-Winding" and "24 Jewels" in the lower half. As always, the Undone brand name is discreetly tucked at the very bottom at 6 o'clock

Both versions get a vintage lume treatment, although only on the hands and dial, not the bezel. The initial burst on my Scientific dial was pretty even, but the lume on the markers could not keep up with the hands.  

As with every Undone watch, the buyer may choose from their catalog of straps as well as other personalization options. Mine arrived with a display caseback and a 20mm Italian leather strap on quik-release pins that displayed a fantastic, and appropriately broken-in, pull-up effect when bent. 

A properly sorted wartime original Weems can easily cost thousands of dollars and even the 1990s-era Longines reissue is no bargain (And it had a date window! Why?). The Undone Aero goes on sale today for the very reasonable price of $365. This is spot-on for a watch of these specs and absolutely peanuts for anything that will even remotely scratch that Weems itch. 

I love my Undone Aero and heartily recommend it. For more info or to order one of your own, visit the Undone.com. ⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

When the people of Rhodes sought to commemorate their successful defense against Demetrius Poliorcetes' year-long siege, they turned to Chares of Lindos. A sculptor of some renown, he had been involved with a number of large statue projects, and apprenticed with Lysippos (who you likely know from his 72-foot bronze statue of Zeus at Tarentum). The people of Rhodes beseeched Mr. of Lindos to make the grandest statue of all, on par with their victory. They asked him, "How big? How big can you make it?" Confident and ambitious, but not foolish, Chares of Lindos told them: "Big, but not nearly as big as the Archon Sealiner."

The Sealiner weighs in at over half a pound and makes itself known with proportions to match: a 45mm wide, 15mm thick case with a 52.5mm lug-to-lug makes no apologies as it sits on your arm. This watch is for big wrists and strong shoulders. While it is Brobdingnagian in the truest sense, it wears slightly better than you’d expect thanks to a gentle lug curve. Those lugs, though, are just as big as you'd expect, at 24mm (I don’t even own any 24mm straps).  

For all its size, the case is well made with clean finishing and crisp edges. And you can’t take that away from it. The cushion-shaped fixed bezel is brushed on top with polished sides and rests on a fully-brushed (save for the back) barrel-shaped midcase. A small polished bevel creeps up from the caseback for a hint of light play.

Crowns and pushers are as plentiful as millimeters on this watch. The three o’clock crown could stand a bit more length (if your case is 45mm, why not go for broke?). Just above, at 2 o’clock, a corrector is nestled into the case to adjust the month (though I prefer to just advance the date through a full month). The bezel crown is situated at 10 o’clock; it’s the same size as the time-setting crown, but that’s less of an issue here. The dive bezel shouldn’t be overly easy to adjust, nor prone to nudges, and a less protuberant crown makes sense.

Let’s discuss this wonderful dial we see through the flat sapphire. Look at that slow fade, from the deep ocean up to a vivid sky. Look at how it goes right through the radial subdials! The applied subdial rings are brushed and offer a contrast to the almost-matte dial finish. Don’t let those subs fool you, though—they track day of the week and month.  You’ll find no chronograph functionality, but instead a complete calendar, including the date window at 6 o’clock.

The dial is well-balanced, with nothing over- or undersized. Legibility is excellent, though I would’ve preferred a more prominent 12 o’clock marker. The lume on the sword hands is adequate but not exceptional. On the dial, lume suffers and is noticeably dimmer. I do like that the subdial hands are lumed.

The internal bezel is an internal bezel. I’m just not a big internal bezel guy. I’ve got less of anissue with an internal 12-hour bezel, which you set and forget. But dive bezels (for most of us) are used for timing, usually spontaneously. I really wish there was some lume to be found here, but alas. And curving your fingers over the case to grip the left-side bezel crown, rotating it just right (there’s not a click like on an external bezel), and hoping it stays put is an unattractive alternative to a traditional external bezel. It seems brands mostly use internal bezels for the aesthetic rather than practical purposes. The Sealine is no exception.

Rolling the watch over (put your back into it), the Sealiner features a mixed-finish screw-down caseback with a sapphire crystal. While there’s a laser etching of the Archon logo on the rotor, there’s no real reason to put this movement on display. A Japanese Miyota 9122 is otherwise undecorated and features 26 jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. I had no issues with my movement regarding basic functions or accuracy, which remained well within the -10/+30s spec. The text around the sapphire has plenty of information, including the 200m water resistance. 

The bracelet on the Sealiner is no less of a beast than the watch itself. It features 5-piece links with alternating finishes, and tapers from a Panerai-sized 24mm to a normal-sized 22mm. The branded clasp is stamped and similar to ones I‘ve seen on a number of microbrand offerings. With such a robust case, it’s a shame they didn’t opt for a milled clasp.

I like my watches to wear in a very particular way: not huge. On my 7-inch wrist, the Archon Sealiner was simply too large for my liking. But if you like a watch that wears large, or simply have wrists that can better accommodate the Sealiner, there’s plenty to like here. The build quality, the gradient dial, the pops of red, and the cushion bezel all stand out for me. And I don’t hate a complete calendar (the combination of the dive bezel and the complete calendar is curious, perhaps good for those long sea voyages).

The only thing that dwarfs the watch’s size is its price: $1,250. There's no value to be had at that price. That said, I’ve seen opportunities to get this watch much cheaper, whether through discounted pricing or the secondary market. If you’re hip to the Archon Sealiner, there’s still hope. You can check out the Archon site for pics of the other dials or to buy the watch at full retail. Or you can just set a reminder on eBay or WatchRecon.⬩

I've been a fan of Christopher Ward watches for years now. I've followed the brand through several logos, featured many models on this site, and owned a few myself, having acquired my first in my earliest days of watch nerdery. Their current catalog contains a rather wide variety of watches, so for this review, I was pleased to try a watch in a style that does not often pass through Time Bum headquarters, a world timer - the C65 GMT Worldtimer to be precise. 

My life may be mundane, but that does not mean my watch should be. The C65 has got enough jet-set glamour for both of us. The case measures 41mm wide, 47mm long, and just the barest touch over 12mm thick (about 13mm including the dome). These are tidy proportions, but the streamlining effort doesn't end there. Different watches can have identical measurements and similar case shapes yet still look markedly larger or smaller depending on how the designer uses angles, curvature, and finishing to bend the light. 

Christopher Ward calls the stainless steel case the "light catcher," and they are not joking. A clever combination of shapes and textures serves to make it appear lean and long. Working up from the bottom, you see a broad and polished concave undercut, a narrow brushed edge, the barest polished bevel, and a brushed top. Even the crown has multiple dimensions and finishes; matte sides and a bead-blasted head with an embossed and polished logo. 

What you likely won't notice at all, is the glossy black case back. I must confess, I didn't understand its purpose when I saw the C65 in pictures, but is quite apparent in person. The inky underside vanishes, and the black coin-edged bezel enhances the illusion. These clever elements concentrate your view to the bright faceted center section, making the case appear impossibly slim. Flip the watch over, and that shiny black finish accentuates the sharply embossed trident on the case back. It is a striking effect, so much so, I wonder why I haven't seen it employed more often. 

Of course, the defining feature of a world timer is the bezel. This one is 120 clicks, bidirectional, and remains securely set even though it operates with a light touch. Its function is simple, just turn it to align the city representing your current time zone with the hour hand to calculate the time in any of the other 23 city zones. Vintage world timers usually had printed aluminum inserts. CW takes it several steps higher. The angled bezel is engraved, presenting debossed city names in the black outer ring and embossed names in the silver inner ring. A triangle and yellow dot mark London Greenwich Mean Time. 

Moving to the dial, a yellow and white 24-hour chapter index descends to a matte black dial with a matching date wheel. The real standout is the yellow GMT arrow, but delve a little deeper, and you will find several engaging elements like the trident-tailed second hand's white tip; the way the polished edges of the hands taper towards the base, creating a paddle shape; and the combination of brushed and polished finishes on both the hands and the applied markers. Most subtle of all is the phantom logo debossed at the top. There is a wealth of detail here. None of it jumps out at you. Instead, it builds a smart, tailored face that elevates the C65 GMT beyond what you might expect from a tool watch.

Lovely as it may be, the C65 does not skimp on utility. It features a screw-down crown, C1 SuperLuminova, and is water-resistant to a healthy 150m. That fabulously retro box crystal is sapphire. All the black finishing is a hardened diamond-like coating (DLC). The movement is a high quality, 25-jewel, 28.8k bph Sellita SW330. with anti-shock protection and the all-important GMT hand. All of this should help to ensure the watch will continue to look fresh and function smoothly for years to come. Christopher Ward backs the watch with its 60/60 warranty (60-days free return and 60-month movement guarantee). 

CW offers several strap and bracelet options, including brushed steel (you can read about it here), canvas, and oak leather. I requested the sample on a 22mm black hybrid strap that has a fabric top with an intricately textured rubber backing, two floating rubber keepers, quick-release pins, and a signed buckle. I'm usually ambivalent about rubber straps, but this one is outstanding. The strap is just 3.5mm thick, the basketweave backing is comfortable, and the woven surface dresses it up just enough to wear with a jacket and tie, if not quite to the level of a suit. It is a versatile addition and well suited to the Worldtimer's dressy tool watch vibe. 

Finally, I have say a word about the packaging. I almost never mention the box a watch comes in and my hatred of wasteful display cases is well documented. That said, if you are going to do a hard box, you might take some pointers from CW. The C65 and its owners' manuals arrived from across the Atlantic packed in bamboo case that fit snugly into a debossed vinyl-wrapped sleave. That container was tucked into the shipping box, protected by fitted cardboard with no extraneous plastic or foam padding. Is it more box than I would have preferred? Yes, but I had to admire the concept.

As you might have gathered by now, I loved the C65 GMT Worldtimer. There is nothing I would change about it. I wouldn't even swap the strap, unless it was to try it on a bracelet (really, you should always buy the bracelet). The watch costs $1250 direct from ChristopherWard.com, or $1130 if you opt for the hybrid rubber strap like on the review sample. It is worth every penny. Now if you don't mind, I've got a plane to catch. ⬩

Back in March, I introduced you to Daniel Cheek of Beckett Leather Goods, an American brand handcrafting bespoke watch straps, including those made from exotic leathers and up-cycled items. Daniel now has another Venture, Solomon Straps, to provide high quality, artisan-made straps at a more affordable price. For this review, he gave me a strap of my own from the Solomon collection. 

Solomon offers each strap in 18, 20, 22, and 24mm widths in addition to large and small Apple watch sizes. They are 120/75mm long, with two floating keepers. The site lists the thickness as 3.2mm, but you can expect some variance. Mine was closer to 4mm. The sides are finished but unpainted, revealing a cross-section of thick leather unsullied by cheap filler. 

While the strap bears tool marks and minor imperfections, they characterize its hand made quality rather than any defect. The holes and stitching are straight and clean. On the underside, you will find doubly secure stitches on the keepers, carefully skived tabs, and a surface identical to that on top. A sturdy, polished stainless steel, square frame buckle caps it off. 

I popped it onto my Pancor and was delighted with the pairing. The strap was comfortable right at first wearing, requiring little to no break-in, although I am confident that given the weight and quality of the leather it will continue to improve over time. 

Solomon straps sell for $60. This is significantly cheaper than the Beckett straps, and you are still getting an excellent product. I wouldn’t hesitate to order one or two more for myself. Perhaps in a tasty violet or turquoise? I highly recommend you head over to SolomonStraps.com and check them out for yourself. ⬩

The Omega brand is a Swiss luxury watchmaker. It is well known for its range of high-quality, extravagant watches and is one of the main rivals of the Rolex.

At the very ripe age of just 23, in 1848, Louis Brandt began his journey to become one of the world’s most famous manufacturers of exquisite watches. However, it wasn’t until 1903 that the brand became what we know it as today - Omega. The development of the first Omega watch was exciting and was considered to be one of the world’s most accurate and easily repairable timepieces of its era.

Not long after its first successful timepiece, the company was responsible for a number of major breakthroughs, including being the first to create a minute repeater wristwatch. At this time, Omega was selling a phenomenal amount of watches – more than 100,000 per year. With sales like that, it wasn’t long before the company became one of the major worldwide competitors in the watch industry.

While there are many high-end watchmakers around, Omega is a brand that goes beyond way beyond the standard. Not only do these exude class and elegance, but they’re also made using some of the highest quality components, making them extremely reliable too. And it’s their reputation for reliability that helped the company achieve all of what it has so far. 

Several Accolades to Date

Having been around for such a long time, it’s of no real surprise that Omega should have a few accomplishments under its belt. However, those that it can brag about, are pretty impressive, and hard to beat. Here are just a few examples:

As you can see, there are several ways in which Omega sets itself apart from the crowd. The quality is superb, the designs are amazing, and the range is big enough to cater to most people’s taste. ⬩

Today's review is by Guest Bum Zach Gulsby, an Account Manager by day, and a lifelong wristwatch enthusiast.  His Instagram handle is @zgulsby.  

Am I a world traveler? Not really. Do I need to know what time it is in Murmansk? Probably not.  So…do I need a GMT watch? No, but like many watch enthusiasts, I really want one. It’s one of those complications that screams cool, and makes you feel like an adventurer, even if you haven’t left your house in a while. And while the Explorer II is still on my ever-growing “list,” I wanted to scratch the GMT itch with a solid design at an entry-level price. 

Enter the Geckota G-02 GMT. When Geckota started teasing this design on Instagram late last year, I was immediately hooked. It had crisp lines and a unique design that wasn’t overly homage-y. But before I dive into the watch itself, let’s take a step back and talk about Geckota as a brand. 

Geckota is a sister company of WatchGecko, a small British company that is well known as an accessory and strap retailer. Where WatchGecko focuses on accessories, the Geckota brand primarily designs and sells watches. Enthusiasts are somewhat polarized about Geckota – some folks get hung up on the brand name and logo choice, which for some reason is nothing new for British brands. That said, their recent designs are hitting it out of the park. Aside from the G-02 GMT, take a look at the W-02 racing chronograph, R-01 dress watch, and W-01 jump hour automatic. In my opinion, these newer designs are spot on. All design work is done in house by Ben Adams, who I had the chance to speak with recently – I’ve included some of his comments throughout the review. All in all, I think the brand is trending in a positive direction.        

When it comes to the G-02 GMT, here are the high-level specs (courtesy of the Geckota website):

·      Case: 40mm diameter, 13.5mm thickness, and made of 316L stainless steel.

·      Lugs: 20mm, 47mm lug to lug length. Not drilled. 

·      Crown: Signed, screw down, providing 200m of water resistance.

·      Movement: Ronda 515.24H Quartz

The G-02 GMT comes in a few color variations, which are determined in part by feedback the Geckota team receives when floating designs on social media. The version reviewed here has a textured brown dial, BGW9 lume, and a fully lumed, grey 24-hour insert. Each model is available on either a strap or bracelet. Let’s dig into specifics, starting with the dial.

I am a big fan of textured dials, which have been popular in various forms for decades, but seem to be seeing a resurgence in 2020. In this case, the dial has a finely pebbled, almost eggshell texture that is not glossy but not quite matte. The dial branding is minimal, with “Geckota” above and “GMT” below, both in a minimalist, sans serif typeface. I cannot say enough about how pleased I am with this new font, which departs from the previous cursive style. It lends a bit more of a rough and tumble, outdoorsy feel to the watch. 

The indices are a mix of Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9, with triangles at all other hours. It is reminiscent of an Explorer, but not overly so. When I asked Ben about the dial, he indicated that one of his favorite designs is the Rolex 5500 – a smaller version of the 1016 that sports the classic 3-6-9 motif. The minutes track has white hashes at every half minute, and red circles at the fives. It is difficult to see due to the domed sapphire, and this is one of my minor criticisms of the watch. When I asked Ben about it, he said that he wanted the minutes track to be “a slight hidden detail” and that it was evocative of “a bit of vintage quirkiness.” All indices have a heavily applied lume plot, backed by stainless markers that are brushed in the center with polished edges, a finishing technique echoed on the handset. 

Both the lollipop hour hand and lozenge minutes hand are polished on the edges with a brushed line in the center. The seconds hand is fully polished. The GMT hand is lacquered white, setting it apart from the stainless hands. I love this handset and the finishing because it really ups the perceived value of the watch as a whole. 

The 40mm case is also a fun departure from the norm, channeling a Nautilus or SNKK vibe. It is fully brushed, unlike the standard G-02 case, which has both brushed and polished elements. Ben said the fully brushed case was chosen to enhance the vintage feel and to bring more attention to the dial and bezel of the watch. Curved lugs help the watch to fit well on my 6.75” wrist. The crown is easy to grip and manipulate, making adjusting the time easy. The ball bearing, bidirectional bezel is a little harder to operate due to the shallower knurling, but once it is in place, it isn’t going anywhere.  Mine has a small amount of play, but not a bothersome amount.  The insert is well designed, with each indication milled out and filled with lume. 

I ordered my version of the G-02 GMT on a President-style bracelet. The end links are hollow, and the bracelet uses split pins, which are tedious to handle but (I assume) help keep costs down. The clasp is simple and signed. While I generally always prefer a watch on its bracelet, that isn’t the case here.  One and two-piece straps suit the outdoorsy feel well, and the bracelet makes the whole offering a bit too monotone. In any case, I intend to repurpose the bracelet onto another mid-size watch. For example, this bracelet will fit the Seiko Alpinist. 

Priced at just $250, the G-02 GMT hits a pricing sweet spot for me and I suspect many others. Geckota has indicated that an automatic GMT is planned for release in the future, and it will not be a simple movement swap with the G-02 design. Since their recent releases have hit the nail on the head, I’m confident their automatic GMT will also be a stunner!   

For more information or to purchase a Gekota of your own, visit geckota.com. ⬩

So when was the last time you saw a new Super Compressor? No, not a vintage-style, dual-crown diving watch but the real deal that uses the increase in water pressure when diving to squeeze the case back against the o-ring and make the watch even more water-tight?*  Unless you are old enough to have bought one back in the day, or maybe found a 50-year-old NOS cache, I’m guessing the answer is “never.” Until today, when Christopher Ward unveils the C65 Super Compressor. 

The result is a dual-crown, internal bezel set-up in an oblong 41mm case. Unlike the originals, this one features a sapphire display casebook that shows both its Sellita SW200 automatic movement, and the 300-micron thick compression spring which gives the case its name. The outer case ring is orange, matching that on the crown for the inner bezel, the triangle at 12 o’clock, the minute hand, and the tip of the second hand. 

The C65 Super Compressor watch costs £895 on a strap or £1,000 with a bracelet. For more information or to place an order, visit christopherward.com.  

Technical

• Diameter: 41mm
• Height: 13.05mm
• Weight: 72g
• Calibre: Sellita SW200
• Case: Stainless steel
• Movement Crown: Screw-down (4 o’clock)
• Water resistance: 15 ATM (150 metres)
• Vibrations: 28’800 per hour (4 Hz)
• Time tolerance: -20/+20 seconds per day
• Dial color: Ocean Blue or Black Sand
• Lume: Super-LumiNova® Grade X1 GL C1
• Strap width: 22mm
• Lug to lug: 47.12mm
• 
  
• Features
• Swiss made
• 26 jewel self-winding mechanical movement
• 38-hour power reserve
• Glass box sapphire crystal
• Screw-down exhibition caseback with aluminum anodized compression ring and divers helmet stamp
• Unique engraved serial number
• Twin-flag engraving over 'Colimaçoné' finish on the rotor
• Screw-down stamped crown with sandblasted lower area and polished top
• Screw-down crosshatched crown with an anodized aluminum outer ring
• Internal rotating bezel (120 clicks) with matte white, chamfered edge
• Top-brushed indexes with diamond polished facets
• Signature Trident counter-balance on second hand
• Super-LumiNova® Grade X1 GL C1 hands and indexes
• Eco-friendly luxury presentation case and owner's handbook

* For those of you who said “Vostok Amphibia,” well, ok damn it, you’re right, but that’s not what I’m talking about.

As a brand, Vario has more than a few irons in the fire, but I tend to think of them in two parts. One part is straps and accessories and this is where the brand got its start. In this area, Vario has been prolific, expanding their product lines to offer a remarkable array of leather, Cordura, Harris Tweed, elastic, rubber, and printed nylon straps as well as jewelry, quality leather accessories, and even watch-themed t-shirts. The other part develops watches, and here Vario has taken a more measured approach, producing only two models, the Eclipse and the Empire. As I have said in my reviews, both are among the best in their class. Indeed, I own one of each. For my review today, I have a prototype of Vario's third offering, the 1918 Trench Watch, and I will tell you right now that Vario has outdone itself.

I have reviewed about a dozen variations on the trench watch theme, including one that was literally a converted pocket watch. Most feature the key elements of a round case and wire-style lugs fitted with modern spring bars. It is a good formula; Vario took it a step further. The 1918 merges modern materials and technology with a design that is faithful to the originals that saw service in the actual trenches of the Great War.

The watch measures 37mm wide and 10mm thick. This may seem small by contemporary standards; however, it was quite the norm until relatively recently. It is also closer in size to a real trench watch. Pocket watches came in a wide range of sizes, but chances are, your great-great-grandfather did not strap on a 45mm wrist anchor before the battle of Verdun. More likely, it would have been between 34-38mm. The 1918 falls neatly into that period-correct range. I think it is perfect on my 6.75" wrist, particularly on the supplied Bund strap.

Rounded, brushed sides with a polished bezel, crown, and lugs all serve to underscore the antique pocket watch connection. This is further enhanced by the fact that the wire lugs are, in fact, wire lugs. You will find no spring bars hidden inside. As a result, the lugs are thinner than faux wires would be, making the watch appear smaller than its 45mm length would suggest. Solid wires also mean that you cannot fit a conventional two-piece strap. Your options are either pass-throughs or straps with securing tabs. Is it limiting? Yes. But that's the price of authenticity, baby. 

Fortunately, Vario is prepared. The watch will come standard with an 18mm Bund strap that attaches with Chicago screws. Of course, Bunds are not for everyone, but you can also wear it as a two-piece strap without the center pad. Vario also sent me an optional one-piece leather pass-through for a slimmer fit. Both strap options are well crafted and fitted with signed buckles. The leather is Crazy Horse, which is a good choice given the way its matte finish looks broken-in even when brand new and continues to gain character as you beat it up. 

My only caveat is that the strap sections of the Bund are 80/120mm. That is just fine if you are using them alone, but the pad takes up space, and once it was fitted, I had barely enough tail left to tuck into the second keeper. Anyone with a wrist bigger than mine will be looking for a longer strap. I've discussed this with the brand and they are considering some changes. Assuming things remain as they are, my pro-tip for the large-of-wrist would be to order both a Bund and 270mm single-pass in the same color, then use the single-pass with the Bund pad. Problem solved. 

The enamel dial fairly screams "vintage." Its cream color appears anywhere from off-white to warm ivory depending on the light. Those oversized and stylized Arabic numerals will likely remind you of pre-WW2 pilot's watches, but that typeface graced pocket watches first. Cathedral hands are a must, and I'm pleased to see the minute hand's needle tip reaches right to the railroad index on the perimeter. A recessed small seconds dial offers a clue as to the movement within; a Miyota 82s5 automatic (21 jewels, 21.6k bph, hacking, hand winding). The only hint of modernity is the Vario logo, and even that manages to look at home here. 

And then, we have the variations. In addition to the cream and orange lume shown here, Vario will also offer white with orange, white with white and a red 12, grey and white, black and white, and black and orange. Mix that up with seven different color Bund and pass-through straps and I think you would be hard pressed to not find a combination you like. 

But wait, there's more! Look for a Medic version with a pulsometer and Seiko NH38, or possibly even a Seiko VD78 quartz option, or a 40mm case, or maybe even a brass case? There are some very cool variants being kicked around and Vario is still soliciting customer input.

Back in February, I reviewed a prototype Nine Four Successor. Since then, they completed their Kickstarter campaign, got fully funded, produced their first run, and even sold out of one variant (this one, in fact, but another run is on the way). With the Successor on such a roll, they asked if I would have a look at a final production sample so I could update the review. Of course, I was happy to do so and can report that the small changes added up to a solid overall improvement in what was already a rather handsome watch. 

I'm not going to repeat my initial review (you can read that for yourself here) but I'll hit the highlights. The Successor is a 1970s style dress/sport watch in a brushed stainless steel case with a Seiko NH35 Automatic inside. It is 40mm wide, 46mm long, and 10.5mm thick, creating a delightfully slim profile that continues through the bracelet and clasp. I found it to be an easy fit on my 6.75" wrist. 

Angular lugs and heavy brushing lend it tremendous character, while an unexpected glint of bright polish on the outside of the bezel provides a clever, contrasting pop. The low-profile, H-link bracelet and butterfly clasp are excellent, which is a good thing given that the tiny lug width will likely preclude you from ever fitting anything else. The dial's most striking feature is its "teak" dial. In most conditions, it is just an interesting bit of texture, but when the light hits it just so, it is rather arresting. I love it.

 Review and photos by Mike Razak

Don’t let the name fool you. The Swiss Watch Company is anything but generic. I reviewed the brand’s debut watch, the now sold-out Diveralmost a year ago and came away quite impressed. While the name of both the brand and the watch were the epitome of blah, the watch itself punched far above its price. SWC has opened up pre-orders on their newest model, the cryptically-named Sport, and it offers as much as it’s predecessor, if not more. So move past the name (they already got grief from IWC as it is, can you imagine what Richemont would do if they tried to officially change it to SWC?) and let’s take a look at the Swiss Watch Company Sport.

A gentle curve defines the 47mm lug-to-lug and allows for relatively easy wearing. In fact, my wife—who usually prefers more diminutive watches—had on the quartz and actually liked it. I’m sure the mint green didn’t hurt, nor did the quartz’ 11.9mm thickness compared to the auto’s 12.3mm.

A simple screwdown crown at 3 o’clock is easy to operate and doesn’t make a fuss of itself. The watch lacks crown guards, which is fine, but I would have loved to see what kind of guards SWC would have designed for this watch. On the quartz, you’ll find a push-pull crown. Don’t worry, both watches have an ample 100m water resistance. The difference was to avoid confusion on the automatic crown, which features a ghost position due to the movement’s date function. The screwdown crown lets you know for sure the crown is locked in, instead of stopping short on the date position and having water seep in. These guys think of everything.

The dial is what makes the Sport unique, and not just for its aesthetics. One of my friends remarked that it looks like it came straight out of Tron, and I can’t help but agree. The ultra-modern markers are without a doubt the standout here. They’re unlike anything I’ve seen before, and that alone deserves plaudits. The auto Sport dial comes in the burgundy seen here, as well as blue, black (with DLC case), and “swamp” green.

(Why specify the type of green but not other colors? Why not Red Red Wine Burgundy, Unfathomable Sadness Blue, and Frostbite Black?)

What’s truly incredible though, is the construction of that outer ring. While it may look like the indices are applied, they aren’t. Instead, the outer ring is a single matte-finished piece of ceramic, with the raised markers being polished and then filled with Super-LumiNova (the color depends on the model: C1 for the burgundy auto, C3 for the green quartz). Around the edge are tiny little shark teeth to mark the minutes.

The hands are high polished alpha hands with a simple seconds hand. They feature the same lume, but on my prototype, they were quite dimmer than the markers. Happily, both the markers and the hands will be much brighter on the final run. One of the best things about the SWC Diver was its insane lume, which outshone both my Omega and my Nodus. Hopefully, the production models for the Sport can get there.

I love the simplicity of the applied logo and feel it stands on its own, and yet just below it comes the dials only weak spot. Before Is ay this, I want to make clear that I do like this dial. But muddling an otherwise beautiful burgundy block pattern (reminiscent of the AP Royal Oak’s grande tapisserie) is the etched “Swiss Watch Company” badge. While it’s subtle and far less distracting than on the brand’s Diver, the dial would’ve looked better were the name relegated to the caseback.

On the quartz models, which come in mint, blue, salmon, or “cream gunmetal” (which sounds repulsively violent), the 6 o’clock area is occupied by a radial GMT subdial with well-lumed hands. The subdial features cardinal numerals to aid legibility. I’ll also note here that it is adjust by a corrector nestled into the case at 4 o’clock.  

Rolling the watch over, the screw-on caseback features the same pattern as the dial and is surrounded by the obligatory SpecText™. I like the motif here even more than on the dial, as it catches the light so well with the alternating finishes to the blocks. I’m not one to take my watch off just to look at the caseback, but this one is mesmerizing. Furthering comfort, the undersides of the lugs areconcave, giving them more curve against the wrist than you'd expect from their profile.

Under the caseback of the auto Sport sits a Swiss Sellita SW200. SWC is very clear that the SW200 used is not “Top Grade,” but rather regulated in house to the same specs (+4/-4  seconds per day) and will come with documentation thereof. The quartz models feature a Swiss Ronda 4210.b movement. This is no cheapo throwaway movement, so save your eyerolling. It features a 50-month battery live, 8 jewels, power-saving mechanism, and gold plating. And it keeps time to -10/+20 sec/month. Not bad, if you ask me.

The 22mm lugs accommodate a number of strap options offered by the brand. Included with each Sport are a silicone and a nylon Velcro strap. The silicone is color-matched and vented for excellent comfort, features a sturdy deployant clasp, and laughs as it repels dust easily. The long end of the strap features a polished SWC badge near the lugs, which is there and you’ll just have to deal with it.

The nylon Velcro strap is much better than it sounds. When I hear Velcro I think abrasive, but that’s not the case here. The straps are elastic and soft. They secure to one end by a traditional spring bar, and looped through like a NATO on the other end. Due to the narrower lug gap, I did find they required a bit of finessing to loop through, but once on, proved comfortable.

The stainless steel bracelet is not included, but will be available as a discounted add on prior to shipping. And I’d recommend you get it. Even though it’s already great, it will only get better as they plan to size down the ratcheting clasp. The polished center links pick up the polished finish of the case and flow from naturally from the bezel. The fitted endlinks feature quick release springbars meaning a) the female endlinks are fixed to the bracelet, and b) install and removal are a snap. The ratcheting mechanism means that you can fine tune the fit on the fly (which is great as your wrist swells throughout a hot summer day). I’ve honestly never installed and sized a bracelet faster.

The Swiss Watch Co. Sport is another solid offering and shows continued growth from the brand. I think it’s better than their diver and their chrono—in fact, I would love to see a diver and/or chrono interpretation of this watch. The Sport is decidedly modern, with a solid case and thick lugs that give it exceptional wrist presence, a dial that breaks the mold, and two solid straps (plus the optional bracelet). 

And if that weren’t enough, the pricing is just ridiculous. For all that and a top-regulated Swiss movement, the auto is available $389, while the quartz can be had for just $289. The Kickstarter campaign is live and wrapping up very soon, so hop on it before prices jump to retail (about $100 more). And kudos to SWC for getting their ducks in a row before launch: the Sport will deliver in November, just two months after the campaign closes.⬩

What time is it? Time for another giveaway, that's what. This time, it's a prize package of all the cool Vario watch cases and leather accessories I reviewed in July, including:

 ARV is $130.