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Giveaway: Kingsbury

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The Time Bum has teamed up with Kingsbury Watch Company to give away one Monarch II dress watch (ARV $119). It has a smooth sweeping (4x/minute) Seiko VH31 quartz, a 42mm brushed stainless steel case, and a black or brown alligator grain leather strap. You can find out more here.

The prize watch will be brand new and shipped directly from Kingsbury. 


Kingsbury Monarch II Giveaway
All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. You get entries for Instagram visits, but it would be awfully nice if you would follow us too. A winner will be drawn after midnight February 28, 2019.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law. You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter!

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

While you are at it, read about the new Kingsbury Dark Water Diver too. 

Good Luck!

The Time Bum - Kingsbury Monarch II Giveaway



My Best Watch Storage Solutions

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I used to have two watches. Yes, two: one beater and one dress watch for special occasions. They lived in my nightstand, and that was that. Then I discovered the watch hobby, and it rapidly spun out of control. Two became six became twelve and soon I had more watches than any one person could possibly need, an equally stupid number of straps, and an ever-expanding mass of ancillary stuff like spring bars and buckles. All of it needed to be stored somewhere, and it had to be done in a manner that allowed me to see everything and access it easily. It has been a challenge, but after a few years, a couple of false starts, and some fine tuning, I’ve got a pretty good system. This is not an exhaustive list, and not every idea will work for everyone, but these are the watch organization, storage, and transport tips that work for me.

Best Watch Storage Ideas

Watch Rolls

Many beginning collectors assume they should buy a watch box as their first storage solution. I did the same, and after the third one, I realized it was a waste. Boxes are bulky, occupy precious space on your dresser or shelf, and they have no secondary purpose once your collection outgrows them. If I were building my collection all over again, I'd start with a decent watch roll or two instead.

Watch rolls are, above all, compact. A four pocket model is no larger than an overstuffed burrito so one or two will not monopolize your sock drawer. Unlike an empty box, a roll collapses to nearly nothing when not in use. When you find you have one more watch than you have pockets, you can move on to the next storage solution and use the rolls when you travel or cart your collection to enthusiast get-togethers.

Watch Storage Zelos Leather Roll

I've accumulated several over the years, but my favorite is the Large Leather Watch Roll that came with the original Zelos Abyss. This butternut tan beauty has four pouches that are large enough to swallow a 47mm diving watch, one 1/4 sized pocket for a strap tool, and buckled strap to keep it shut. This particular one is no longer offered. Fortunately, rolls are easy to find and budget-friendly. Some brands include them as part of their packaging or as a stretch goal when crowdfunding. Yes, I know the cost of the roll is built into the final price, but “free gift with purchase” is not a bad way to get something you were ready to pay for anyway. If you are shopping for one, there are dozens available on most watch sites. If you still can't find what you want, then I’d suggest trawling Etsy to have one made to order. Rolls are most commonly made from felt, leather, or canvas. I’m partial to leather because it wears well and adds less bulk than heavy canvas.

Watch Storage Zelos Leather Roll

My best advice when shopping for a roll is to keep its fully loaded, rolled up size in mind. If you do try a roll with five pockets or more, make sure it is made from relatively thin material. I’ve seen guys with thick leather or canvas rolls made to fit seven or more watches, and they often end up the size of fireplace logs. Better to have two smaller rolls than one unwieldy monster.

Pelican Cases

Pelican makes hard shell, foam lined cases for transporting all kinds of things. Folks use them for camera gear, tech equipment, firearms, you name it. Of course, people like us use them for watches. The beauty of a hard shell case is that it protects its contents while facilitating transport. Pelican is not the only company that makes them, but they are the most popular. I like the secure latches and integrated handles. The combination lock and waterproof seal is overkill, but it’s nice to know that they are there.

Pelican 1200 Watch Case

I have known folks who have used these cases for home storage, and if you have a growing collection and not much storage space, it isn’t the worst idea, but it can be a hassle to pull it out every morning. I use mine strictly for transport.

To make your hardshell case a watch case, you need to cut watch sized sections from the protective closed cell foam. There are some companies sell ready-made inserts specifically for watches (Nalpak makes some particularly nice ones) but for such an easy DIY, I'd rather save the money. 


Pelican 1495 watch case

Pelican's “Puck and Pluck” foam inserts have perforated square segments that allow easy sizing and removal. Make sure you have a layer to fit your case, calculate the number of spaces, their size, and distance in between, then cut the sections free with a knife. The parts you remove will become the cushions for your watches. I cut 4x5 segment cushions for the watches, spaced 3 segments from the case sides and 2 segments apart. Some dive watch collectors have winced at how closely they are packed, but I’ve never had a watch come close to its neighbor and the egg crate foam in the lid keeps them securely in place while in transit. That said, a little extra room wouldn’t kill anyone. Go with what makes you feel comfortable.

Pelican Case

I’ve got two cases. One small model 1200 ($54.95) set up for 9 watches, and a briefcase-sized model 1495 (currently unavailable from Pelican, but $161.56 from Nalpak) with room for 32. I could actually squeeze 40 in there, but I haven’t needed to yet. I use the small one when I am meeting watch friends who just want to see the latest acquisitions and the pieces passing through for review and the large one for shows where I am bringing sets of display samples from several vendors. I saw one guy at a show who had put a huge collection into what looked like a rifle case. Browse Amazon or eBay and you will be sure to find what you need.

Watch Folios

I only recently discovered these on Amazon for $29.95 each. The Optima 33-190 is a zippered vinyl folio with 10 pairs of elastic straps on either side and a soft nylon divider in between. The idea is that you lay your watches flat, placing each end of the strap through the elastic. It holds 20.

I like the idea, but it has its drawbacks: it would be awkward to flatten a dive watch on a fitted rubber strap, I would worry that heavy watches would escape the elastic, and it simply would not work for any watch on a bracelet. But that does not mean the folio does not have its place. I bought a couple of them for straps.

Optima 33-190 20 watch case, 40 straps

My strap collection was always in a heap. Sometimes the heap was in a box, sometimes a compartment in a drawer, but always a pile I would have to dig through to find the one I needed. The folio solves the problem. Each elastic strap holds two strap sections up to 26mm wide with ease. What was designed for 20 watches now swallows 40 straps that you can see all at once. Store them in a drawer or stack them vertically on a shelf like books. Game changer!

Watch Drawers

When your collection gets truly grand, you will need a grand solution. Mine was the watch drawer: clear it, compartmentalize it, fill it with watches. I’ve laid out the steps in two previous articles; one for drawers, and another for an entire cabinet. I invite you to refer back to them for details, but in short, you need non-slip shelf liner, a customizable drawer organization system (I used this one from The Container Store), and dense foam pipe insulation from the hardware store to use as your watch cushions (I am told pool noodles work just as well and are easier to find in the summer).

Ikea Watch Cabinet

My system has worked beautifully. The only issue I discovered is that over time, heavy pieces on bracelets compressed the foam, so the watches sagged in their compartments. The solution was pretty easy. I just stuffed the inside with more foam.  Boom. No sag.

Watch cushion foam

Of course, the watch drawer/cabinet idea requires furniture you can take over — something about which your significant other may or may not be thrilled. But man, if you can do it, I’ve found nothing better. Everything is secure, in its place, and easily accessible. In my case, a $130 IKEA Alex Drawer Unit that held all my watches and rolled away into my closet was the ideal solution for both of us.

Compartment Boxes

So now that you have your watches squared away, what do you do with the buckles, screws, and worst of all, the spring bars? That stuff adds up fast and gets lost in drawers even faster. I went for the kind of plastic organizing boxes that are generally sold for craft supplies, fishing lures, fasteners, and pretty much any other fiddly bits that people use in their hobbies.

Look for clear plastic containers divided into small sections. My personal favorites have two rows of compartments, each with their own snap-lock lid and a curved bottom, like a larger version of your grandparents'"pills of the day" dispensers. This way, you can open just the section with the 20mm fat Seiko spring bars and not risk mixing them up with the 20mm standard size spring bars if you jostle the container, or worse, scattering everything if you knock it over. The curved bottom makes it about 100 times easier to fish those little suckers out.

Watch parts compartment box
You will find all kinds of utility and supply boxes at art supply stores, sporting goods stores, hardware stores, even your local big box emporiums. Prices start around $2 for basic boxes and go up from there.

What’s next?

Good question. Even after all this, there are still some items that haven’t found homes. My tools still tend to end up floating around the drawers of my watch cabinet and the original packaging and display boxes get dumped into bins in the garage until I need to sell the watch they came with. (Please, watch brands, give us cheap, disposable packaging, so the next guy doesn’t insist on the original boxes. I’m begging you here.) Even so, these random bits are out of sight, and I can find them when I need them, so I really can’t complain. 

At this stage, I’ve probably spent more on watch organization than most normal people spend on watches, but it’s worth every penny to have my watches, straps, and accessories stored in a way that is safe, tidy, and easy to browse when making my daily selection. I hope you find a system that works for you! ⬩

Hemel Hydroendurance HD1

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Last week, I got my first chance to try the Hemel Hydroendurance. Released last summer, this 300m tool watch is Hemel’s first diver and has proven to be a roaring success. Hemel has all but sold out of the first production run and has another batch on the way. They sent me a blue dial loaner for this review. This particular watch has seen regular use and shows a desk diving mark or two.
 
Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue

The HD’s stainless steel case is brushed to almost a matte finish. It is 42mm wide and 46mm long, and just 12mm thick, including the dome. These measurements give it a healthy wrist presence while steering well clear of the brick-like proportions flaunted by some, more showy, diving watches. That said, the Hemel is undoubtedly a sporting piece. Perhaps the biggest clue is the oversized crown. Most brands equip their divers with tall crowns, ostensibly to facilitate setting while wearing wetsuit gloves. (Honest question, why wouldn’t you set your watch before you put your glove on? I don’t dive, so I freely admit my ignorance, but this has never made sense to me.) Hemel resisted the urge to make it tall and went wide instead. Flanked by a pair of angular guards, the knurled and signed screw-down crown is still easy to grip, but does not risk poking your hand when you bend your wrist. In my opinion, crowns that keep close to the barrel are also more attractive.

Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue

The case back bears a Hemel designed coat of arms complete with Renaissance-era dolphins. It is quite ornate and stamped in high relief. Behind it lies a Miyota 9039 movement. Like others in the 9000 family, this 24-jewel automatic hacks, hand winds, and beats at a silky 28.8k. The difference is that it lacks a date wheel, so it does not have a non-functional first position when you pull out the crown, and you will never feel the phantom click of a hidden date wheel turning over. I’ve never considered these to be vexing issues on no-date watches, but I know they drive many enthusiasts absolutely crazy. Regardless of your feelings on the matter, you have to respect Hemel‘s attention to detail.

Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue case back

Hemel offers the HD series in blue, black, green, red, and orange; the color appearing on both the sandwich dial and domed sapphire bezel. The blue dial can shift to a deep royal in sunlight but usually presents as an inky navy that matches the insert. The 120-click bezel operates smoothly with no undue effort, and its index is fully lumed, just the way I like it.

Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue

The handset is diamond cut and lumed; segmented pencil hand for minutes, a fat dagger for hours, and a spear-tip for the seconds. The cut-away markers are a combination of bars and darts topped by an oversized 12. The minute index is a series of perforations at the perimeter. It is a bold layout in daylight but simply outstanding at night when the C3 SuperLuminova struts its stuff; green, clean, and dazzlingly bright.

Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue lume

Orange is a key element in Hemel’s brand identity. It is incorporated into every one of the brand’s watches as a nod to the founder’s Dutch roots. Here, it appears on the HD’s hour hand and in the anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal. That second one was new to me, and I have to say, it is the only thing I disliked about the watch. AR coating is one of those things that works best when you don’t notice it. Whenever the light caught the crystal just right and revealed that orange sheen, I felt like it was announcing itself in a way that the more common blue tinted AR does not. My son, on the other hand, who is generally agnostic about my parade of new watches, thought it was the coolest thing he had ever seen, particularly noting the way it played off of the blue bezel. To each their own. Personally, I think it might have bothered me less on a red or orange dial.

Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue orange AR

A steel H-link bracelet with a signed push-button deployant clasp is standard. All links are solid (as are the ends) and secured with split pins. I really appreciated the way the clasp seamlessly integrated into the bracelet for a smooth, low profile appearance. Of course, there are no micro adjustments on this type of arrangement, but the links are small enough that I was able to find a comfortable fit for my 6.75” wrist.

Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue wrist

Orange AR aside, I enjoyed the Hydroendurance. it is a sturdy, stylish watch that definitely stands apart from the crowd. It retails for $699.99 and while they are in short supply now (only a handful of orange dials left) new ones are coming soon, and I’m told this next batch will introduce a slight twist to the design. If you would like to grab the last HD or sign up for more information about the next one, visit HemelWatches.com. ⬩

Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue
Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue
Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue
Hemel Hydroendurance HD1 Blue

Introducing the Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch

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This sponsored post is a paid advertisement. All content was provided by the brand. 

Today, Arcadia has launched the Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch on Kickstarter. This  Wyoming-based brand is the first to incorporate graphene into a field watch. The proprietary graphene coating, DuraPhene™, is mechanically and thermally sealed to the stainless steel substrate producing a surface 200X stronger than steel, with enhanced corrosion resistance, and anti-microbial properties.

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch

The 40mm Model G1.0 features a compass rose discretely displayed on the chapter ring, military-style numerals, bold precision crafted lumen filled hands, and large round lumen-filled indicators, which complement an ivory face reminiscent of a vintage enameled dial. The dial is set into a custom, thin-wall, stainless steel case which allows a larger viewing area.  

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch

In addition to the screw down back, “O” rings are incorporated to assure water-resistant protection beyond 5ATM.  The internal mechanism is the workhorse Miyota 2035 quartz movement by Citizen. The G1.0 is complemented by an embossed carbon fiber patterned genuine leather band, quick release band pins, with the Arcadia™ mark laser etched on the clasp and embossed on the inside of the band. All of this is handsomely presented in a branded leather presentation case. The suggested retail price is $349.  

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch

Arcadia treats the G1.0 watch case with DuraPhene™, a proprietary thermally fused graphene coating designed to essentially become part of the substrate matrix which offers superior strength and adherence. In 2010, two researchers from the University of Manchester were awarded the Noble Prize for the graphene discovery. Basically, it is a two-dimensional allotrope of carbon. Graphene is only one atom thick but harder than a diamond, 200x stronger than steel, highly conductive and corrosion resistant, can flex 20% without damage, and is anti-microbial. 

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch wrist

“The Arcadia Field Watch and coating, has been under development for almost two years” stated Hal Herron, Arcadia’s president. “The technical challenge was working with the wonder material graphene, which was finally accomplished. Our team has successfully integrated leading-edge materials with functional urban design.” 

The Arcadia G1.0 promises to be a tough and innovative new watch. For more information visit: www.arcadiawatches.com, the G1.0 Kickstarter page, or email info@arcadiawatches.com and be sure to check back with The Time Bum in the next couple of days for a hands-on review of the G1.0! ⬩


Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch lume

NTH Odin

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Once again, Chris Vail of the Janis Trading Company has cooked up a couple of new NTH Subs, and once again, he has let me test drive a couple. This time, I’ve got a pair of NTH Odins in black and blue.

NTH Subs Odin blue and black

All of the Subs series share the same case, a 40mm wide, 48mm long, 11.5mm thick Submariner-style unit in brushed stainless steel with a polished bevel that runs lug-to-lug. A broad, low-profile crown helps to maintain the Subs’ sleek proportions. Trim though they may be, the Subs are tool watches to the core, each sporting a double domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal, screw down crown, drilled lugs, 120-click bezel, and a 300m water resistance rating. Inside is a stalwart 24-jewel Miyota 9015 automatic humming at a smooth 28.8k bph.

NTH Odin side view crown

Bezel feel is excellent. It is smooth, precise, and requires just the right amount of fingertip pressure. The brushed and engraved stainless steel inserts match the dial colors. NTH never skimps on lume, and the Odins do not disappoint. You will find SuperLuminova all around; blue-white for all bezel markings, yellow-white C3 on the hands, dial, and even the crown. Several microbrands have given their crowns a glow, but if memory serves, NTH was the first, and it has become a brand hallmark.

NTH Subs Odin lume

While the cases and innards have remained the same, Vail has let his imagination fly free on the dials and bezels. We’ve seen Subs inspired by all manner of vintage watches, including 1960’s mil-spec Rolex, Tudor, Omega, and Sinn. Every one of them has been reimagined with an NTH twist. Some, like the Zerograph-inspired Nazarios or the Magenta Dolphin, were just wild. The Odins rein it in a bit, presenting a handsome mix of early 1950’s Rolex 6204 and late 60’s Omega Seamaster 300.

NTH Subs Odin clasp

The new generation of Subs has an improved 20mm Oyster-style bracelet that tapers to an 18mm double-locking clasp. The screwed links are now a shade smaller for better articulation, and the signed clasp is longer with beveled edges. Six micro adjustment points and a half-sized link on each side make it easy to get exactly the fit you need.

NTH Subs Odin blue and black

The Odin’s dial combines printed bar markers and a large triangle at 12 o’clock along with a brushed handset: broadsword hour, pencil minute, and spear-tipped second. The long minute markers are printed in white. You really can’t miss the Seamaster 300 connection. My only quibble is that the 3, 6, and 9 markers are truncated. This made sense on earlier Seamasters that had numbers in these positions, but it is less appealing on later models like the quartz ref. 2264.50.00, which eliminated them, leaving that fat hour hand falling short. I really should fault Omega for this as NTH faithfully followed that layout, but I see it as perhaps a missed opportunity. Given the number of Omegas sold with this identical design, I doubt it will bother many others.

NTH Subs Odin blue

It is hard to wrong choosing a black dial watch, and the Odin is certainly handsome. I like the way the C3 mellows it a touch, particularly in contrast to the bright white on the bezel. That said, the medium blue watch is more striking. Both will be offered with or without date windows at 6 o’clock, white disk for the blue, and black disk for the black. I generally prefer a no-date, but on the Odin, I like the way the window completes the short marker and anchors the layout. To my eye, it just seems to tighten up the layout a bit. 

NTH Subs Odin black wrist shot

One of my favorite NTH features is the use of text on the dial. There is no clutter, just the logo up top, model name and water resistance on the bottom rendered in a distinctive yet still tasteful typeface. I am continually amazed at how many brands get this wrong. NTH nails it.

As always, the latest NTH is set to deliver a highly satisfying watch at the very attractive price of $625. Vail plans to release the NTH Odin in the spring through NTH’s webstore and authorized retailers. For more information or to get on the list for release announcements visit NTHwatches.com. ⬩

NTH Subs Odin blue and black
NTH Subs Odin blue

Straton Legera Standard and Bullhead

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On Sunday, February 17, the Straton Watch Company will launch their Legera series on Kickstarter. Like previous Straton models, the Legeras are colorful race timers in a decidedly 70’s style. Buyers will be able to choose from the 44mm cushion case Legera Standard with its 3 o’clock crown, or the bold Legera Bullhead that positions both crown and buttons at the top of a 42mm wedge-shaped case. Both watches are offered with a choice of Valjoux automatic or Seiko MechaQuartz (a quartz timekeeper married to a mechanical chronograph module). In order to get a feel for the range, they let me borrow all four configurations. 

Straton Legera Series

One of the things I like about this brand is the way they have established a distinct design language. Every piece has been unique, but since the 2916 Curve-Chrono, they are all immediately identifiable as a Straton. They also offer a hell of a selection. As if two movements in two cases wasn’t enough, buyers also may choose from one of five color combinations, including a PVD black case, and an optional bracelet. I wouldn’t want to be in charge of Straton’s order fulfillment, but it provides a nice selection for the customers. I got blue, gray, black, and black/black. The only one missing from the set was brown. All versions have screwed down crowns and case backs, and are rated for a healthy 100m water resistance. The crystals and bezels are both domed sapphire, a look that ranks among my personal favorites

Straton Legera Standard Gray

The Legera Standard is the more conventional of the two; a broad tonneau case with bowed sides, crisp edges, and a 3 o’clock crown. It measures 44mm wide, 49mm* long, and 16.5mm thick from the case back to the peak of its domed sapphire crystal. Short lugs that are angled sharply downwards help keep the size in check, but the Standard still completely filled my 6.75” wrist. 


Straton Legera Standard blue wrist shot


The case is brushed stainless steel with a slim, polished bevel that runs from lug-to-lug along the upper edge. Broad rectangular buttons flank a signed, bun-shaped crown with deep, twisting flutes. I like the way the buttons tie into the bright bevel and blocky case, but I’m not entirely sure about the crown. While attractive in and of itself, its rounded form seems slightly out of step against the razor-creased case. 


Straton Legera Standard side

The main body of the case forms a table atop which sits a 3mm tall, toothy bezel, fitted with a 12-hour domed sapphire insert that matches the dial. It is easy to grip and moves smoothly through its 120-click, unidirectional rotation. I did wonder why a 12-hour bezel should be unidirectional, but it is hardly worth grumbling about as it feels so much better than most bidirectional bezels. 


Straton Legera Standard blue lugs

Around back is a screwed down case back stamped with the image of basketweave racing wheel. Behind it, lies a Valjoux 7763 automatic or Seiko VK63 MechaQuartz. The Seiko shows 60 minutes at 9, running small seconds at 6, and dual-time 24 hours at 3. The Swiss mechanical has its running small seconds at 9, chronograph 24 hours at 6, and chronograph 30 minutes at 3. Their cases are identical but a quick comparison gives up the game. The Valjoux has smooth sweeping small seconds and sweep hands, while the Seiko’s are noticeably choppier — although the 5 beats per second sweep hand and snap-back reset makes a good showing. The buttons feel very different too for although the MechaQuartz has far better engagement than most mushy quartz chronos, it is not the same as the firm click of the Valjoux. Finally, there is a difference in weight. You’d never notice it on your wrist, but with the two watches in hand, you can feel the added heft of the auto. 

Straton Legera Bullhead Black

The Legera Bullheads are quite another matter. They retain the same styling cues as the Standards and are undoubtedly in the same family, but are still wildly, gleefully offbeat. Their odd, wedge-shaped cases and top-mounted buttons are best operated in your hand like a traditional stopwatch. The lugs are stubby and almost fully integrated into the case. You will finds a similar bevel to that of the Standard, but here it runs up and over like a horseshoe. It has the same crown as the Standard and its domed shape looks a bit more comfortable on the Bullhead’s half-round case. 


Straton Legera Bullhead Valjoux side

Movement choices are different in the bull as well. The auto packs a Valjoux 7750 and the quartz a Seiko VK67. They both feel and operate the same as those in the Standard, but the registers differ slightly. The 7750 places the 30-minute chronograph at 9, the running seconds at 6, and the 12-hour chronograph at 3. The VK64 puts the running seconds at 9, a 12-hour at 6, and a 30-minute at 3. 

Straton Legera Bullhead Valjoux wrist shot

At 42mm wide and 46mm* long, the Bullheads are smaller than the Standards. Thickness, on the other hand, is more complicated. At mid-point, the Automatic is the same 16.5 as the Standard and the 13mm MechaQuartz is considerably thinner, but that is really only part of the story. Take a look at the fat end and note how the case sides envelop the case back. If you were to slip your calipers between the lugs and measure from the case back to crystal, you would get the same 16.5/13mm result,; however, when viewed from the side, you just see one tall, solid slab. Measure that from the foot of the lug to the crystal and the overall thickness jumps to 17.5mm for the MechaQuartz and a whopping 20mm for the automatic. Now, I know we never measure thickness from the lowest point on the lugs, but I did it here to show just how radical the case really is. 

Straton Legera Bullhead Valjoux wrist shot

On the wrist, the angled case presents the dials like a miniature dashboard. After trying a couple of much larger bullhead designs I expected it might feel awkward. I am pleased to report that it is, in fact, quite comfortable. You certainly notice the top-heavy design at first, but you quickly grow accustomed to it. Now, if you are one of those people who (like me) always feel as if your watch is traveling to the outer part of your wrist bone, the Bullhead will exaggerate the sensation. This was most apparent when wearing the taller, heavier mechanical watch. When I wore the MechaQuartz it barely registered. Bear in mind, this was on my smallish wrist. Bigger folks will wear that mechanical bull better. 

Straton Legera strap

Regardless of the case, the straps are the same across the Legera range. They are 22mm wide perforated leather, lightly padded and tapered to end in a 20mm signed buckle. Colors coordinate with the dials you select, which by the way, are the same on both Bullhead and Standard, and quite lovely. 


Straton Legera Standard gray and blue

Moving inward from the bezel, you have a brushed tachymetre index, orange-checked minute track, and finally, a sunray dial fitted with brushed and applied hour markers. The markers are peaked to catch the light and while they are not lumed, a pip on the minute track behind each does the trick. The diamond-cut baton minute and hour hands are polished and filled with channels of BGW9 lume, as are the arrowhead indicators on the subdials. The sweep hand is bright orange. Cushion-shaped frames surround the three subdials, eliminating the 3, 6, and 9 markers. An applied Straton “S” logo up top finishes it all off. It is a full dial, but uncrowded and height legible. Accent colors are fabulous, especially the metallic shimmer of the orange and blue. My personal favorite combination was the black dial with blue tachymetre and register frames. Between that and the orange on the sweep hand and minute track, you get all of the grooviest elements in a single dial. 


Straton Legera Bullhead Valjoux black

Lume is simply excellent, lighting up like a torch when darkness falls. The bezel on the blue watch is particularly pleasing, suffused with a blue glow that fills the domed ring. 


Straton Legera series lume

The Straton Legera series launches Sunday, February 17 on Kickstarter. The preview page is open to the public so you can browse the collection, but you won't be able to order until it goes live (note, the linked page will automatically update). When it does, early birds will be able to grab the MechaQuartz for as little as CHF 329 ($335 USD) and CHF 829 ($874 USD) for the automatic. Bracelets are $40 extra. After the pre-orders, full prices will be 29-33% higher.

I'd say the Legera is well worth your consideration. All versions are great fun and with such a wide variety of color, movement, shape, and strap configurations, you will surely find something that catches your eye and fits your budget. For more information, photos, and news visit StratonWC.com. ⬩

* Note that Straton's info lists the Standard as being 50mm long, not 49mm, and the Bullhead as 48mm, not 46mm, but try as I might, I could not duplicate those measurements on the precision instruments here at Time Bum Labs. That said, I'll readily admit there is room for error. 


Straton Legera Bullhead Valjoux thickness
Straton Legera Bullhead mechaquartz black pvd
Straton Legera Bullhead mechaquartz black pvd
Straton Legera Standard Blue
Straton Legera Bullhead MechaQuartz foreground, Valjoux background

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene

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This past Tuesday, I was introduced to newcomer Arcadia and their G1.0 Graphene Field Watch. The brand kicked off their first Kickstarter on Wednesday, and by Thursday, I had a review sample in hand. They have let me keep the watch to put it through its paces as I see fit, but given that they have a crowdfunding venture underway, I thought it best to get my review up as soon as possible. After a couple of days on the wrist, I'm ready to report. 

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch wrist

Arcadia is an outdoor lifestyle brand, so it makes sense that their first offering would be a field watch. The G1.0 is sensibly sized at 40mm wide, 47mm long, and a slight 9.5mm thick. The round case has a smooth bezel and is distinguished by long, tapered lugs that are clearly defined against the barrel. I hesitate to call them horn lugs as they are more integrated than that, but they do harken back to that style. The brand offers the watch in polished stainless steel, but the real attraction is the unique, graphene-coated version. 

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch


Graphene is a two-dimensional carbon crystal that is absurdly strong and only one atom thick. It was the subject of Nobel Prize-winning research in 2010, and about two minutes of Wikipedia research by me just now because, I am not ashamed to admit, I had never heard of it. That said, it is tough stuff. Arcadia uses proprietary graphene coating called DuraPhene that claims to be harder than a diamond, 200x stronger than steel, corrosion resistant, and anti-microbial, all of which seem like good qualities for a watch case. To the eye, it an attractive matte finish that is, not coincidentally, a dark graphite gray color. 

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch

I like the look of it as well as the promise that it will hold up better than a typical PVD coating, but it is not indestructible. As we watch fans know, even a diamond-like coating (DLC) will scratch if you try hard enough -- or if you don't try at all and then one day look down at a hairline of bare metal on your formerly pristine black watch and say, "Damnit! How did I do that?" I'll be curious to see how this one fares over time. From a purely aesthetic perspective, it works rather well.


Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch

The watch is rated for 50m water resistance, which is not out of line for a field watch and more than sufficient for most activities short of sustained immersion. More disappointing was the flat mineral crystal. If you go the extra mile to make your case scratch resistant, your crystal ought to be the same. Sapphire would be a big improvement and is arguably a necessity on a watch like this. 

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch  side

I had issues with the crown. First, it is polished, which to my eye, seems out of place against the stealthy gray case. Coating the crown head to match the case would be my first choice, but if this were not feasible, then bead blasting it to a matte finish might tone it down just enough. Second, I could not keep a good grip on it. In spite of its coin edge, I kept slipping and pressing it in as I set the watch. The tiniest bit of additional travel would have made all the difference. Of course, you won't have to do this often.


Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch case back

The case back is polished stainless, engraved with the G1.0's basic specs. Behind it lies a Miyota 2035 quartz movement. It isn't sexy, but it will do the job and take a fair beating while doing it. I love my mechanicals, but when it comes to field watches, there is something to be said for the accuracy, affordability, shock resistance, and immunity to magnetism that you get with a simple quartz. 


Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch

I really liked the G1.0's ivory dial. It is a warm, creamy color that tends towards yellow under artificial light and cream in the sun. The layout is clean and legible, and those large, pistachio green markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 are a pleasing complement. Semi-skeletonized sword hands with lumed tips look great and reach right to their markers. Lume quality; however, is merely average. The hands hold their glow for a little while, but the markers fade right away. 


Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch  lume

One interesting feature is the compass rose printed on the rehaut. It certainly cements the field watch theme and is designed to help you get your bearings when using the watch as a makeshift compass in the wild. (See the post, Navigating With Your Watch for a how-to.) I'd have preferred a rotating compass ring for this function, but then again, I am also the sort of person whose sense of direction comes entirely from the soothing voice emanating from my dashboard, so maybe I'm not in the best position to criticize. 

Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch strap

The Arcadia's 20mm strap is black leather embossed with a carbon fiber pattern. It is padded, tapered, and stitched in white. I thank the brand for not putting the G1.0 on a nylon NATO. I like NATOs, but they have been done to death. I'd much prefer my watch to come on a nice two-piece strap like this and play with cheap nylon pass-throughs on my own. Quick release band pins are a nice touch. The buckle is polished and signed. It kind of ties back to the crown, but not enough for me. Again, I'd have preferred to see it coated or bead blasted, but that is hardly a deal-killer. 


Arcadia G1.0 Graphene Field Watch wrist

The G1.0 is an excellent fit on my 6.75" wrist. Between its low profile and feather-light weight, I hardly noticed it. The dial is attractive and easily legible, although it did get tricky when the lights went down. The watch will retail for $349, but you can still pre-order the graphene version one on Kickstarter for $199, or the polished case version for just $129.  The campaign ends March 14, at 1:00 PM EST. 

For more information and photos visit: www.arcadiawatches.com

Charlie Paris Concordia

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This sponsored post is a paid advertisement. All content was provided by the brand. 

On January 13, 2019, the adventurer Matthieu Tordeur completed the expedition of his dreams: crossing the Antarctic in total autonomy, over nearly 1150km at only 27 years old. An exceptional fight that lasted 52 days in temperatures down to -50° C. He thus became the first French citizen and youngest explorer in history to ski from the coast of the Antarctic continent (Hercules Inlet) to the South Pole solo, without assistance and in total autonomy. On this journey, he wore a Concordia wrist watch by Charlie Paris.  

Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic black
Charlie Paris is a French watchmaking company founded in 2014. All our watches are designed, conceived and assembled in France. We founded Charlie on a simple idea: make the watches we dreamed of; timeless pieces with singular lines, make them in France, and sell them at the right price. Today we have a hundred of resellers around the world and our own shop in Paris where you can see all our collection and the Concordia.

Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic blue

We designed and developed the Concordia to meet the extraordinary requirements of Matthieu Tordeur’s expedition. The watch is named for a research station based in Antarctica; one of the three stations inside the Antarctic continent to operate the whole year! The Concordia is antimagnetic, waterproof up to 300 meters, and can withstand extreme temperatures down to -70° C. 

Charlie Paris Concordia Matthieu Tordeur South Pole

The collection comes in an automatic version of 40mm diameter with rotating bezel and a more accessible 38mm version featuring a Seiko VH31 sweep-second quartz. These two versions are available in three colors each: blue, black, and steel. All watches are numbered and it’s a limited edition (200 quartz, 200 automatics in total).

Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic blue

The Automatic Concordia is the watch that was worn by the adventurer during his expedition. With its rotating bezel and highly legible indicators, it adopts a sporty and elegant design.
  • Made in France: Assembled in France, in Besançon
  • Case: 316L Steel, 40 mm diameter, 12.7 mm thickness, polished and brushed. Non-Magnetic ISO764.
  • Dial: Index and luminescent needles in Super-LumiNova®.
  • Bezel: Unidirectional rotating, aluminum insert, hourly graduation and special symbol at 12h
  • Caseback: Screwed steel, with the logo "Objectif Pôle Sud" and the number XXX/200
  • Movement: Swiss Mechanical self-winding, caliber ETA 2824-2 elaborated finish with 25 rubies, 28,800 vibrations per hour, and a power reserve of 40 hours.
  • Glass quality: Domed Sapphire, Anti-glare, 2.8mm thick
  • Crown: Screwed with aluminum insert
  • Water Resistance: 30ATM, 300 meters/1000 ft

Charlie Paris Concordia Matthieu Tordeur wrist

"The watch has always been one of the most important tools for explorers," said Tordeur. "This is even more true in the Antarctic where the sun is shining 24/7 and where the watch was my only time marker in this frozen desert. Mechanical watches are also much more reliable in the cold compared to electronic equipment." 

Charlie Paris Concordia Matthieu Tordeur South Pole

Our meeting with Matthew Tordeur goes back more than a year now, his expedition project and his world record had immediately thrilled us. After gradually expanding our collections over the years, we felt ready to release a watch made for an adventure that would meet strong technical constraints. 

You may purchase a Concordia on the Charlie Paris website. The Quartz starts at €295 and you can still get an Automatic for as low as 695 if you buy before the pre-order period ends on Monday,  February 25, at which point the price will increase to €795 for a Concordia Automatic on a strap and €825 on a bracelet. However, for the next two weeks, Time Bum readers can get 10% off the entire Concordia range with code TTBXCHARLIE. ⬩

Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic black


Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph

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Last year, Jubileon released their first watch, the Superellipse. I really liked its clean layout, distinctive case, and affordable price. Next month, they will launch the Superellipse Chronograph, a burly tool watch that takes the original model’s shape in a new direction.  I tried a prototype for this review. 

Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue on White Vintage Gunmetal

A “superellipse" is a closed curve forming a box shape, not unlike the Chronograph’s bezel. That signature feature is shared with the original watch, as is the blunt cushion case and short, angular lugs, but while the cases look similar at first blush, they are quite different.

Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue on White Vintage Gunmetal

At 42mm across, 51mm long, and 15mm thick, the Chronograph is substantially larger, and that is before you factor in the crowns and guards at 9 and 3 o’clock, which bring the overall width to a whopping 49mm. That kind of east-west crown and guard set up does have the benefit of symmetry, but it is a visually heavy arrangement.  


Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue on White Vintage Gunmetal

Finish options for the stainless steel case will be IP Vintage Gunmetal or Vintage Rose Gold. I received a Gunmetal sample and a buckle in each color, both showing a dark, mottled surface and burnished edges. The effect is certainly eye-catching, and the gold, in particular, may be an appealing option for those who like the look of patina but cannot wear an oxidizing metal such as brass or bronze. That said, I’d prefer the combination of brushing and polishing that made the first watch so attractive.

Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue on White Vintage Gunmetal

The Jubileon’s tool watch looks are backed up by functionality as well. It boasts a 100m water resistance rating and AR-coated, flat sapphire crystals front and rear. Both of the crowns screw down and are signed with the Jubileon logo. They pop well clear of the guards and operate smoothly. You may notice that the prototype’s engraving lacks the “SG” tucked into the “J.” This will be corrected before production. 


Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Vintage Gunmetal

The case back echoes the bezel in both its shape and the four screws that secure it; however, it is finished with vertical brushing and a polished edge. While I understand the decision not to IP coat the back of the watch, that bright chamfer seems out of place. 


Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph case back

The exhibition window offers a view of the Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic, and its custom rotor. This view will be improved as production watches will have a larger opening. The engraved text will grow a size as well. This 25 jewel, 28.8k bph movement features 12 hours, 30 minutes, and small seconds registers, day and date disks, the ETACHRON regulator system, and a firm, satisfying “click” upon engagement. 

Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue on White subdial macro

While I may have my misgivings about the style of the case, I love the dial. Jubileon will offer it in Faded Gray, White-on-Blue, and Blue-on-White like the sample. Its three large registers and broad indicators dominate the layout, providing excellent legibility. A porthole disk for the small seconds dial will be an option. The blue primary hands are a proper length, and I like the contrast between the pencil minute hand the fat wedge of an hour hand. The red sweep hand is a welcome pop that coordinates nicely with the red number at the top of each subdial. Dial text and logo are sensibly sized and positioned around the 3 o’clock date window and the outer edge of the 6 o’clock position. BGW9 lume on the hands and markers glows strongly at night.  

Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue on White lume

The Chronograph’s left crown sets the silver-on-blue internal 12-hour bezel, allowing you to track a second time zone. On the prototype, the numbers don’t quite square up with the hour markers because the serifed “1” throws off the alignment. In production, the numbers will be sans-serif and dead-on.

Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue on White Vintage Gunmetal leather

Buyers will get two 22mm straps with their Chronograph: leather backed denim with white stitching and ribbed, padded leather with white tribal stitching. Thick-framed buckles are matched to the cases and signed although you might miss it on the prototype. Production buckles will have deeper, clearer engraving. 


Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue leather strap Vintage Rose Gold

Both straps are a good fit for the rugged style of the watch, but neither was a good fit for me. Even cinched to the last adjustment hole, I could not keep the heavy head positioned on top of my smallish 6.75” wrist. That really summed up my relationship with the watch, the Superellipse Chronograph was just too much for me in more ways than one. I'm much better suited to the smaller, more reserved Superellipse 3-hand.

Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Blue on White Vintage Gunmetal wrist shot

Jubileon has already launched a brushed/polished panda-dial special edition on the Watcha Facebook group and will take orders for the regular production run through jubileon.myshopify.com starting in mid-March. The pre-order price will be $750 including shipping, and only 50 of each dial and case variant will be made. If they sell fewer than 50% in the initial launch, they will start a Kickstarter campaign in mid-April with a $799 starting price, $30 shipping, and only the denim strap. Full retail is expected to be $1,199.

For more information or to stay posted on the launch, visit Jubileon on the webFacebook, and Instagram




Lesablier Aviateur VQ

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I first encountered Lesablier Watches at the 2018 District Time Show in Washington, DC. This local microbrand had just launched the Aviateur VQ, a 24-hour Watch with an instrument-inspired dial. They let have some time with one of their limited edition (500 pieces total) watches for this review. 

Lesablier Aviateur VQ
VQ is short for vingt-quatre, or twenty-four in French (and sadly, that is about all I remember from my high school French classes), and 24-hour watches are a curious thing. This method of timekeeping is useful in environments where an absence or abundance of light can blur standard am-pm distinctions, but unless you are on a submarine, a polar research station, or living in a bunker, you probably don’t need one. Of course, 24-hour time is the norm in aviation and the military, but I haven’t known anyone in those fields who wears a 24-hour watch. For them, it’s just ingrained, so they will look at a 12-hour analog watch and say, “let’s regroup at 14:00 for a status update” as if it were totally normal and not the pronouncement of a robot wearing human skin.

That said, there is a healthy segment of the watch community (see the Watchuseek 24-hour Watch Forum) that loves the purity of a 24-hour watch, and many collectors, myself included, have succumbed to their charms. After all, when you think about it, it’s the 12-hour clock that makes no sense.
Lesablier Aviateur VQ wrist shot

Which finally brings us to the VQ. For a watch with military and aviation inspiration, its case takes a very different tack. You might expect an instrument inspired watch to have a blocky, square case and exposed screws but Lesablier steered clear of that cliché, instead choosing a more wearable, round, stainless steel case that is 41mm wide, 45.8mm long, and just 7mm thick. The overall appearance is soft, with rounded bezel and curvy lugs that are clipped at the ends. The VQ has a domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal and its 50m water resistance rating is on par for a pilot’s watch. It is bead blasted matte gray.

Lesablier Aviateur VQ crown

I’m not crazy about the VQ’s crown. I have no issue with its function. Pulling it to its second position advances both hands together while the first position advances only the hour hand. Its form, on the other hand, leaves me cold. I find its 2 o’clock position awkward, its polished finish distracting, and its size is just a shade too small. I don’t believe the VQ needed an enormous onion, but something with a bit more substance and a matte finish would have better suited the stealthy case.

Lesablier Aviateur VQ case back

Both the crown and case back are engraved and filled with black enamel. There is an hourglass (or “sablier”) on the crown and the case back bears an ornate floral decoration. It secures with four screws. Inside is the VQ’s Swiss Ronda 515.24h quartz movement.

Lesablier Aviateur VQ

The high contrast white on glossy black dial is an imaginative combination of a Flieger Type-B and an aircraft’s attitude indicator. An artificial horizon in the center of the dial serves to delineate day from night hours. This central section has a radius only slightly larger than the hour hand, and it is here that 24-hour markers appear. A navigation triangle sits on top. A minute index marked in increments of five occupies the dial’s outermost perimeter. Dial text is sandwiched between the two; the full brand name arcing over the top and the serial number and series designation is printed at the bottom.

Lesablier Aviateur VQ lume

The hands are polished, semi-skeletonized, and lumed. In fact, there is not a single element of this dial that isn’t. The effect at night is impressive, glowing bright green with every line in sharp relief. My only quibble is with the minute hand. It is positioned far above the hour hand on the pinion, which looks a bit odd, and it is not quite long enough. The hour hand extends right to the edge of the hour circle but the minute only goes so far as to graze the numbers. Just a touch further would have brought the tip right to the minute index.

Lesablier Aviateur VQ

Buyers may choose Terracotta brown or Midnight Black padded leather straps. They are 22mm wide tapering to signed, polished buckle. It is a quality strap that fit my skinny 6.75” wrist with an adjustment hole to spare.

The VQ is not without its quirks, but it is an attractive, distinctive, watch that successfully incorporates traditional aviation design cues into a unique package. The Aviateur VQ sells for $295 at LesablierWatches.com.

Lesablier Aviateur VQ buckle

Giveaway: Prosawood Venus Black

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This month, you can win a Prosawood Venus Black, a unique, counter-clockwise watch with a sandalwood case. The approximate retail value is $158 USD. It is the very watch I reviewed here.


All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. You get entries for Instagram visits, but it would be awfully nice if you would follow us too. A winner will be drawn after midnight March 31, 2019.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law. You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter!

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good Luck!

The Time Bum Prosawood Venus Giveaway

Phoibos Sea Nymph

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It is not often that I get the opportunity to review a women’s watch on The Time Bum. Part of this can be chalked up to the obvious fact that I’m a man, but even if I were not, the micro and independent brands I normally cover just don’t offer nearly as many watches for women as they do for men, which is why I was so interested when the folks from Phoibos asked me to review their Sea Nymph quartz diving watch. 

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange
Now, because I am not the target market for women's watches, I enlisted the aid of three women. The first is Mrs. Time Bum, of course. She is the least watch nerdy of the group but has a growing collection of dress watches from Cyma and Baume & Mercier, as well as an offbeat white ceramic Movado Cerena. The second is Weng, a regular in my informal DC Watch Nerd Dinner Club. She owns some lovely vintage pieces and shares my affinity for slim 40mm divers like the NTH Subs and the Emperor Penguin Watchuseek Forum Watch. Rachel is the third. She is another enthusiast whom I met at the Microbrand Meetup and District Time events. Her collection is a mix of dress and casual with pieces from Nomos, Jaeger LeCoulture, as well as a Stowa Fleiger and most relevant to this review, a 36mm Oris 65. All of us have bemoaned the relative scarcity of interesting, smaller size watches. I've tried to incorporate everyone's observations in this review.

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange

So, yes, it is a quartz, a Swiss Ronda 705. I know that a battery-driven movement will put off many a watch nerd; however, there is much to be to be said for its accuracy, durability, shock resistance, and invulnerabilty to magnatism, all of which are desirable attributes for a tool watch. It's small size also goes a long way to keeping the Sea Nymph's case slim. That said, watch collecting is driven more by emotion than logic, and we all missed the smooth sweep and mechnical soul of an automatic.

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange

The stainless steel case is listed as measuring 36mm wide and 42mm long. When I put the calipers on it, I discovered that it is 36mm across the bezel, but the case itself is only 35mm, allowing a bit of overhang. It is a scant 11mm thick from the case back to the top of its double-domed and anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal. There is no break between the lugs and the barrel, resulting in one continuous, gradual arc. 

Phoibos Sea Nymph side profile

The crown guards are small blocks with smooth edges and rounded corners. All surfaces are brushed north-south except for the polished and signed crown and the wave pattern bezel that is the watch's most prominent feature. You can order the Sea Nymph with a flat sapphire insert, or a brushed and engraved one as shown here. 

Phoibos Sea Nymph lume

All of us liked the Sea Nymph's dial. It is sun-brushed and embellished with curving lines like those on an iris aperture, providing a  dazzling effect when the light plays across it. Its long sword hands, lollipop second hand, and dart-shaped markers are applied and polished. A date window replaces the 6 o'clock marker. Phoibos's intricate and delightfully sinister crowned octopus logo is printed at the top. Whatever you do, don't imagine that it looks like a Mardi Gras mask or you'll never see it any other way (sorry). Down below, it simply says "Professional 300M" in an unobtrusive all-caps typeface. We all liked the intense orange color. Other options include blue, red, or black with a matching sapphire bezel, or white with the brushed bezel.

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange macro

You shouldn't let the Sea Nymph's diminutive size fool you; the Phoibos is a legitimate diving tool rated for 300m with a 120-click bezel, screw-down crown, and bright blue SuperLuminova on the dial and BGW9 on the bezel. Around back, a very 1960's looking illustration of a scuba diver proclaims the Sea Nymph's tool watch intentions. I find it odd that the diver on a a woman's watch has no obvious female attributes, but at least it wasn't a mermaid.

Phoibos Sea Nymph case back

We all appreciated the Sea Nymph's compact proportions but split on the bezel. I liked the look and its smooth action but hated the fact that the waves peaked to the left. Had they peaked right, the steep edge would have provided better grip. As it is, I found it awkward to turn. Weng had no such problem and preferred the apparent clockwise rotation of the waves for aesthetic reasons. Rachel observed that the waves are oriented in the opposite direction of the dial's pattern, perhaps so that they would not look like an extension of those lines. All three of us liked the way the brushed bezel kept your attention on the dial, making the watch appear smaller.

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange

Mrs. Time Bum dissented. She believed the polished edge and brushed bezel were distracting and difficult to read - the very opposite of what you want in tool watch. I chalked it up to the Sea Nymph being more of a dress diver, but she was unmoved. She actually ended up as more of a tool watch purist in this regard, wishing it had no brightwork and better contrast. I suspect the black dial, sapphire bezel model might have been a better match for her.

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange

In the same vein, Rachel took issue with something the rest of us were perfectly willing to overlook: the 12-hour index. One can argue that the vast majority of dive watches will never go diving, so a bezel that serves as a poor man's GMT may be more useful, but she raised an excellent question. Why go through the trouble of making a watch that can dive to depths beyond that of a blue whale and not provide even the option of a proper 60-minute elapsed time bezel? After all, if you are exploring the Great Barrier Reef, it is more important to know how long you have been submerged than whether it is lunchtime in New York.

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange rubber

Phoibos supplies the Sea Nymph with two 18mm quick-release straps: a drilled leather rally and a fitted rubber strap bearing the Phoibos logo. Both are color keyed to the dial and taper to an angular buckle. It isn't often that you see a rally on a diver and it works well here. The rubber strap is the more conservative option and also meets my requirement that any serious dive watch should be shipped with one waterproof strap. 

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange wrist shot man

I own several dress and vintage watches in the 34-36mm range so I expected the Phoibos would be fine on me. And it was, sort of. Perhaps I have just become accustomed to big honking divers, but this one felt a tad undersized on my 6.75" wrist (above); although, to be honest, the more I look at that photo, the more natural it appears. On the other hand, it was just fine one Mrs. Time Bum's 6" wrist (below) and on Weng's 5.75" wrist. The only issue was that Weng had to wear it cinched to the very last adjustment hole, and even then it was on the loose side. 

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange wrist shot woman

In the end, we all liked the little Phoibos for size, proportion, and appearance. The Sea Nymph even came close to winning over the normally tool watch adverse Mrs. Time Bum. If you can accept the fact that it is quartz, you will be rewarded with an attractive and capable dress-diver for very little money - just $180 for the steel bezel and $200 for the sapphire bezel. There may have been elements we might have changed, but Phoibos gots the overall package just right, which is nice to see in this  underserved market segment. 

For more information or to order a Sea Nymph visit phoiboswatch.com. ⬩

Phoibos Sea Nymph orange full kit


Vario Empire

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Review and photos by Guest Bum, Mike Razak.

When The Time Bum offered me the opportunity to review the Vario Empire, I immediately said yes. I’d never handled one of Vario's timepieces and at a glance, I was intrigued. Vario is the brainchild of a former designer Ivan Chua, who is based in Singapore. While the brand focuses on watch accessories including straps, cases, and other odds and ends, Ivan has already waded into the microbrand watch world once with the sleek and modern Eclipse, and now makes a second foray with the Empire. While he has made it clear that he intends to keep the company focused on accessories, I’m quite glad he’s made this divergence, as this watch is something special. The Empire draws from Art Deco style, seemingly crafted from the iconic 1930s skyscraper lobbies that epitomize the form. 

Vario Empire white wrist shot

The watch in profile is rather unassuming: the 38mm diameter and lug-to-lug of 46mm make the case a far cry from some of the behemoths that have been popular of late. While that smaller size may make some fans of larger watches turn away, it’s exactly what it should be. The watch draws from a bygone time, and in that time, watches were much smaller. What place is there for a 42mm Art Deco styled watch? I’d argue none, and I’d further argue that’s a good thing. Vario realized this; the initial prototypes were, in fact, quite a bit larger, and having seen pictures, I can tell you it simply didn’t work as well. It was one of the myriad changes that Ivan made during the development of the watch — so many that his manufacturer allegedly grew weary of his requests, which for me, is a testament to his passion and perfectionism. 


Vario Empire side profile

The Empire is not the thinnest of watches in the “dressy” category, but at 11mm and with lugs that curve to the wrist, I found it sat quite nicely on my 7in wrist. The case itself evokes the bold geometric style of the Art Deco form (recall the layered silhouette of the Empire State Building). The most elegant and enjoyable part is surely where the lugs join the case. They do not simply blend into the case but instead feel as though they are elegantly attached, separate pieces coming together to create a greater whole. Adding fluidity to the case where the lug meets the head, the case band and sides of the lugs feature a brushed finish, while the top of the case and lugs feature a high polish. I feel like the top of the mid-case (just outside the bezel) may have benefitted from being brushed as well. As it is it’s not flawed, but I’m a big proponent of visual contrast, and for me, that would’ve put this watch way over the top. As an added bonus, and a surprise at a watch in this price range, the lugs are drilled to allow for easy strap changes (smart thinking from a company that sells a lot of straps). 


Vario Empire side profile

The onion crown is a fitting choice and very workable; I had no trouble gripping it to wind the watch before strapping it on. The case back features a see-thru sapphire crystal to gaze upon the movement, and all the obligatory text you could want: Designed in Singapore, 5 ATM, Mechanical, Sapphire, Stainless Steel. If you’re ever in doubt of the watch’s features, just flip it over and it’s all right there! 

Vario Empire case back movement

Flipping the watch back over, the dial truly shines. The model I was given to review is the white dial, which features stylized black Arabic numerals on a metallic white dial. The Empire will also be available in silver, black, and black and white tuxedo dial. It may seem foolish to some, but I feel the font is one of the highlights. The asymmetry of the individual numbers is quite a joy to look at, if only while you’re checking the time. And when you get beyond your bargain bin digital watches and start buying timepieces for enjoyment, isn’t that the whole point, to enjoy checking the time? It’s made more enjoyable by the design of the dial itself, which features three sections. The outer track with minute markers is separated from a concentric hour track by a delicate groove, a further nod to the streamlined, clean-lined Art Deco style. The hour track features the aforementioned numerals and a circular brushed finish. When the finishing catches the light (which isn’t all the time) the effect is a good one. The remainder of the dial steps down to a central disc with a radiant guilloche pattern. At 12 o’clock is the Vario logo text, which surprised me in that it was not disruptive to the rest of the watch. The company's standard typeface was not changed for this watch but still blends well into the overall deco design. Perhaps it’s the lopsided ‘V’? Whatever it is, it works. As do the blued skeleton hands. Once again, light does the dial favors and the blue of the hands—syringe for the hour, lance for the minute—makes glancing at the watch a joyful game of “Will the hands shine?” Whether by design or not, the bluing of the hands and the circular finish of the hour track provide a sort of gambler’s reward: a wonderful outcome, but not every time you look at the watch. The light must hit it just right for both to be highlighted and brought out in full effect. In the end, this makes for a dial that never gets tired, and even without the right light, remains beautiful. 

Vario Empire white

Behind the dial (Do we have to leave? It’s so pretty!) the watch features the hand wound Miyota 6T33, just like its cousin the Vario Eclipse. This movement is skeletonized and gilt-finished, so having the sapphire case back allows for a great viewing party for you and your friends. While Miyota claims only -20 to +40s per day (plus a power reserve of about 40 hours), over an entire week of keeping the watch wound, I was averaging just over +6/day, which is unbelievable considering this is not a particularly high-end movement. As such, don’t expect a hacking mechanism for precise time setting—you’ll have to be a few seconds late or early. While I’d love the precision offered by a hacking movement, the fact of the matter is that most mass-produced manual wind mechanisms don’t offer it (such as the ETA-Unitas 6497/8 or 7001). You may balk at a hand wound mechanism, but I think the choice was obvious, just like going with a smaller case size. It just makes sense with a watch that harkens back to the roaring ’20s. There is a simplicity and grace to a manual movement, and to the ritual of winding it before putting it on the wrist. 

Vario Empire white

The Vario Empire will be delivered on the buyer’s choice of one of Vario’s new Hermes-style straps (20mm taper to 16mm), or one of their well-regarded Harris Tweed straps (20mm taper to 18mm). The watch features 20mm lugs and mine came on a grey Hermes-style and I thought it was not only perfectly paired with the watch but excellent in its own right as a strap. It is sturdy yet thin, and no break-in was required. I also found no issue running through quite a few of my 20mm straps, and the Empire ably handled them all. Both strap styles will be available separately as well and come in an array of colors, so you can really make the watch your own. I purchased a Vario Harris Tweed some time ago and can attest to the construction and appeal, but have found it to be a bit stiff and requiring significant break-in. As of publishing, Ivan is still deciding on whether the straps will be quick-change or standard spring bars. 

I must tell you that I’m glad I got the chance to review this watch. It is a stylized piece that transmits a bygone elegance without seeming overwrought or pretentious. No punches were pulled in applying the design language of the Art Deco style, and it is obvious that Ivan has pored over every detail to make sure the watch is just right. If you’re looking for an excellent and understated dress watch with a wallop of character and class, and don’t want to break the bank, I’m not sure you could do much better than the Vario Empire. The watch will be offered initially on Kickstarter at $218 to early birds, and $238 plus $20 shipping thereafter. Standard pricing after the campaign will come in somewhere around $348. Regardless of which price you pay, the watch is well worth it. 

About the reviewer - Mike Razak became obsessed with watches in 2015 after spending an inordinate amount of time finding the perfect wedding watch (the Frederique Constant Slimline Automatic). He prefers a well-executed date window or none at all and strives for a diverse collection with limited overlap. When not fretting over which watch to wear with which strap, he works as an emergency mental health clinician in Northern Virginia, where he lives with his wife and son.

Trintec NAV-03 Horizon and Directional Gyro

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Trintec, the maker of the original instrument watch, has returned with a pair of new aircraft-inspired watches, now available for pre-order on Kickstarter. This time, the company has re-imagined two of their cockpit designs from 1993 to create the NAV-03 Horizon and Directional Gyro.

Trintec NAV-03 Directional Gyro black

Both models are offered in bead-blasted steel or black PVD finishes. Their square cases measure 42mm wide, over 53mm long, and 13.5mm thick. The stainless steel cases have exposed fasteners in the corners, thick lugs, and large, knurled, screw-down crowns. They feature anti-reflective coated sapphire crystals, are water resistant to 100m, and come equipped with rubber straps secured by heavy screw bars. Inside, is a 21 jewel, 21.6k bph Seiko NH35A automatic; a solid workhorse that has a well-deserved reputation for reliability.  

Trintec NAV-03 Horizon steel

The Horizon is a conventional three-hander styled after an aircraft attitude indicator. Black skeleton hands with lumed tips and a red arrowhead second hand mark the time above an artificial horizon of light gray sky and darker land. Red aircraft wings are positioned between the hands the dial creating a faithful representation of the actual instrument. 

Trintec NAV-03 Horizon lume

The Directional Gyro is a one-handed watch (a dual-ended red second hand technically makes this a two-handed watch, just not the two you might think). It mimics a heading indicator, complete with an airplane silhouette. Where the instrument would have a compass rose, the Trintec has a 60-minute index delineated in 5 and 15-minute intervals. This is necessary to allow an accurate reading with only its bright green and black skeleton hour hand. 

Trintec NAV-03 Directional Gyro steel

I've been a Trintec fan for some time now and I really like the bold, graphic direction they took with the NAV-03 models. The project has already funded and you can still get in on the $299 CAD ($222 USD) rewards. For more information or to order your own, head over to the Trintec NAV-03 Kickstarter page to pledge before the morning of March 29. ⬩

Trintec NAV-03 Directional Gyro lume
Trintec NAV-03 Horizon Black

Minuteman A11

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Minuteman Watches is an Illinois based watch company committed to investing in America. They source straps and packaging domestically and assemble their watches here as well. They also donate generously to veterans’ charities. With the A11, they have taken the next big step by using the Fine Timepiece Solution (FTS) Ameriquartz 7122, a new movement manufactured in Arizona. They let me try an olive prototype for this review.

Minuteman A11 green

Now, FTS is not strictly an American-made product because it is assembled from a combination of imported and domestic parts. It is worth noting that the US legal standards for labeling a product “American-made” are higher than those under Swiss law for the “Swiss-made” appellation, but that is a rabbit hole into which we need not descend today. Suffice to say that FTS has partnered with Titan Industries of India to reignite American movement manufacture and that many of its component parts are in fact, produced in the States. FTS is also responsible for the A11’s final assembly. 

Minuteman A11 green

As you may have guessed from its name, the new Minuteman was inspired by the iconic WW2 A11 military watch. The key elements include a mid-sized case, lance hands, and an uncluttered dial with Arabic numerals and lance hands. They are not the first to go down this path, so I was happy to see that they shook things up a bit, most notably by including 3 o’clock day and date windows topped with the brand name and countered by Minuteman’s distinctive logo at 9 o’clock. This east-west arrangement works well, allowing the busy logo enough room to be appreciated and an overall pleasing symmetry to the dial. 

Minuteman A11 green side

The usual minute track incorporates numbers of its own, inside the track and right to the perimeter. Minuteman also saw fit to offer a bold range of colors including olive, gray, brown, and the inevitable black, as well as some decidedly bolder options like yellow and electric blue. All get a black second hand with a lumed red arrowhead. 

Minuteman A11 green wrist shot

While not as small as the original field watches, the A11 is a compact piece, measuring 38mm wide, 45mm long, and 10.5mm thick. This is about as small as most unisex watches can fashionably be, and a good fit on my 6.75” wrist. Around back, you are greeted by an engraved drawing of a charging Minuteman. Redcoats beware! 

Minuteman A11 case back

Like a traditional field watch, the stainless steel case is unassuming, featuring a plain, rounded bezel and bead blasted matte finish, but it excels in ways its vintage brethren never could with protections like a flat sapphire crystal, 100m water resistance, and a generous helping of lume. Although prototype glowed long and strong, the folks at Minuteman tell me production watches will get the one-third more — the thickest application the factory can manage. 

Minuteman A11 lume

Minuteman resisted the temptation to supply the A11 with a nylon NATO. Instead, it comes on a thick nylon two-piece strap with Zulu hardware. I found the fabric a bit too stiff and heavy for my liking. This will be addressed before production as Minuteman has sourced a softer weave that will conform better to the wearer’s wrist. 

Minuteman A11 green strap

It’s hard not to like the A11. It is a sensible size, has a clean design, a color for every taste, and it’s tough enough to actually wear in the field. Best of all, it’s inexpensive. You can pre-order one now for just $189. After March 31, the price goes up to $200. Full retail will be $250. Whatever you pay, part of the proceeds will be donated to Homes For Our Troops. 

For more information or to place your order, visit CGAWatches.com. 

Minuteman A11 green


Monchard Skytoucher

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To look at its website, Monchard Watches is a bit of an enigma. The brand name sounds French, the logo is an anchor, but they don’t make a dive or nautical model. The Skytoucher name reflects their two models’ aviation inspiration although it sounds a bit wooden to my American ears as if it were a foreign term that had a sweeter ring in its native tongue. As it turns out, Monchard watches are designed and assembled in Sweden with an eye towards adventure, exploration, travel, and the classic aesthetic of the 1930s and ’40s. They currently have two Skytoucher models, the dressy, three-hand Automatic and the military styled quartz GMT. They loaned me one of each to review. 

Monchard Skytoucher GMT and Automatic

Both watches share the same stainless steel case. It is 42mm wide, 50mm long, and 12mm thick with a fixed, chamfered bezel, a dramatically flared and fluted screw-down crown, and a number plate screwed onto the left side. It has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 100m. Between the two models, they offer a variety of finishes: polished, brushed/polished, and black or gold PVD. I requested a stealthy brushed black for the GMT, and mirror polished steel for the Automatic.

Monchard Skytoucher case back

The case back execution is one of several details that makes the Skytoucher special. It bears a crisply milled, high relief image of a spinning propeller with the brand name, key model data, and the phrase "Fortune Favors The Brave" engraved around it.  


Monchard Skytoucher GMT black

Monchard offers the GMT in BGW9 on black and Old Radium on olive in addition to the Old Radium on black pictured here. The dial hews to a traditional flieger type-B layout with a navigation triangle, an inner and outer time tracks, and lance hands; however, the 12-hour markers are on the outer one, and a 24-hour index inside, tracked by a red arrow GMT hand. A black date disk peaks through a three-day window with a red indicator. The Monchard logo and model information is squeezed into the central circle. It is a handsome, legible face, despite the fact that it is densely packed. 

Monchard Skytoucher GMT black

The movement is a Swiss Ronda Powertech 515.24H, a 1 jewel, nickel plated quartz with a 45-month battery life. Monchard has left off the second hand, and I'm glad for it as it spares us the jumpy quartz tick. I try not to be a quartz snob, and I've got a good selection of them in my collection, but I confess that I like them much better when their "quartziness" is masked. That large crown makes setting a breeze, rolling clockwise for the second time zone and counterclockwise for the date when in the first position. 

Monchard Skytoucher GMT and Automatic

While it is equipped to handle wet and messy environments, the Automatic is an easy choice for a day at the office as well. It wears smaller than its 42mm size would imply, thanks in part to the light-bending reflection of its bezel. Inside, is a smooth-sweeping Miyota 9015, a 24 jewel, 28.8k bph automatic that hacks, hand winds, and will run just over 40 hours when fully wound. With both watches in hand, you can feel the difference between this heavier automatic movement and the featherweight quartz.

Monchard Skytoucher Automatic Wrist shot

The Automatic's pilot watch roots show in its crown, hands, and railroad track index, but it carries all the requisite dress watch cues. The gray sunray dial with its polished, applied, and faceted markers is particularly elegant, pairing nicely with the British Tan strap. The handset is polished too, as it the logo. While C3 SuperLuminova-filled lance hands are not the most common choice for a watch of this type, I really like them here. They are the proper length, the dial is large enough to carry their width, and I always appreciate a little lume on any watch, if for no other purpose than to make polished hands visible on a shimmering surface. In this case, it provides a healthy glow on the hands and even a dab behind the markers. Other color options include blue or white dials and a PVD gold case.
Monchard Skytoucher Automatic

Both watches come on tailored vegetable tanned leather straps that taper from 22mm to 20mm signed buckles that match the case finishes. I liked their slightly distressed look, and the pronounced pull-up effect on the dark brown Engineer strap fitted to the GMT.

Monchard Skytoucher Automatic strap

After a few days on the wrist, I was mighty impressed with the Skytoucher's quality and value. These are attractive, thoughtfully designed watches that have made excellent use of a single case and handset to create two very different looks. The Skytoucher GMT sells for $325 and the Automatic for $433 directly from MonchardWatches.com. I highly recommend them. ⬩

Monchard Skytoucher Automatic and GMT lume
Monchard Skytoucher Automatic and GMT side
Monchard Skytoucher crown

Ventus Northstar

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Last September, Ventus Watches sent me a pair of 300m dive watch prototypes to display at the District Time event in Washington, DC. At that point, they had unsigned crowns, no case back engravings, and no name, but all the critical pieces were in place, and I couldn’t wait for them to be released so I could write about them. Well, today is the day. The Ventus Northstar, as it is called, just launched on Kickstarter and in the first day has already far exceeded its funding goal. It's not hard to see why. This is a beautiful watch and with a pre-order price of about $220 USD, an excellent value.

Ventus Northstar Forest Green Brass and Admiral Blue
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Ventus designed the Northstar with a 1960s aesthetic in mind, striving for wearable proportions and a classic appearance. To that end, they employed a barrel-shaped case and short lugs for overall dimensions of 40mm wide, 45mm long, and 13mm thick. It is brushed on top and polished along the sides. The 4 o’clock position of the screw-down crown contributes to its compact appearance, and a double domed sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating tops it off. I found it to be a perfect fit on my 6.5” wrist, trim enough to slip under a buttoned shirt cuff while still projecting an appropriately sporting presence. My favorite detail is the chamfer that gradually opens up from the upper edge to the lug ends. Inside each Northstar is a Seiko NH35 Automatic, a hardy, 24 jewel, 21.6k bph unit with Diashock protection and a 41-hour power reserve. 

Ventus Northstar  Admiral Blue wrist shot

I sampled two of the Northstar’s seven variants: an Admiral Blue dial with a ceramic bezel in a stainless steel case, and a Forest Green dial with a brass bezel and brass case. The ceramic and metal inserts are engraved and filled with C3 SuperLuminova save for the hash marks between the pip and 15, which gives the insert a little more complexity. The brushed version offers a tool watch look that blends with the same no-nonsense finish of the case, and on the brass, will grow ever more rugged as its patina forms. On the other hand, the glossy ceramic presents a fine contrast to the case and a closer tie to the brightwork on the dial, dressing it up just a bit more, particularly in the rich stainless/blue combination.  
Ventus Northstar Forest Green Brass and Admiral Blue

The dial is clean and handsome with just the right amount of flash. It features applied and polished bar markers and faceted baton hands that match the cases. All have lumed channels. A broad minute track gives way to a brilliant sunray effect at the center. Have a look at that 6 o’clock date window. It reveals a color-matched disk, a detail you don’t often see at this price. Dial text, my old nemesis, is limited and printed in a distinctive, soft-edged typeface that matches that of the minute index. Note the open 6 and 9, and the round corners on the 3 and E — very nice.

Ventus Northstar  Admiral Blue

Bezel action is one of those things that tends to change from prototype to production, but I had no issue with these. The bezels traveled their 120-clicks with proper pressure and no wobble. Given my experience with previous Ventus watches, I have no reason to believe the final pieces will be any less satisfying. 
Ventus Northstar Forest Green Brass and Admiral Blue

I sampled the prototypes on rubber “tropic” straps that were comfortable, practical, and fit the Northstars’ ‘60s vibe. In addition, Ventus just unlocked the stretch goal of a $50 steel bracelet option for the stainless and black PVD versions. Brass fans will have to make do without. Given the reactive nature of brass, you wouldn’t want it wrapped around your wrist. 

Ventus Northstar Forest Green Brass

Super Early Bird rewards are already gone, but you can pre-order a Ventus Northstar for S$299, or $220 USD, with deeper discounts still available for multiple purchases. This is about 40% off of expected retail. That is a bargain price for this watch. Head over to the Ventus Northstar Kickstarter page by April 10, 2019, to get on board. ⬩

Ventus Northstar lume









Hemel HF Night Ops

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Today, Hemel Watches launches the HF Series Night Ops. You may remember the 2017 HFT20 series that I reviewed here. Well, apparently they decided that very popular model could be improved by making it thinner, blacker, and just a bit more badass.

At a glance, the 42mm Night Ops watches are nearly identical to the HFT20s. They share the same dials, inspired by the jet age Dodane and Breuget Type 20 pilot's watches. That fabulous diamond crown is back. Bezel options still include a glossy ceramic timing bezel or stainless steel 12-hour version, and both are engraved and filled with C3 SuperLuminova; however, the Night Ops's case is a full 2mm thinner for improved wearability and the case, bezel, and strap are black. Lending the watch a sleek, sinister new look.

One item that will not be returning is the Seiko NE88 mechanical chronograph. The Night Ops are offered only with the Seiko VK64 MechaQuartz. This lower-cost hybrid has long been one of my favorite budget-minded choices as it incorporates a mechanical stopwatch module into a quartz timekeeping movement, thus providing a smooth sweephand, snap-back reset, and a crisp click when you depress the chronograph buttons. Also, I am quite sure that the Night Ops arrived at its trimmer form not by diet and exercise, but by forgoing the significantly thicker NE88 movement.

The Hemel HF Night Ops is in stock and available for immediate delivery. The price is $449.99 and a percentage of the proceeds will benefit the Bob Woodruff Foundation for military vets and their families. For more information, visit hemelwatches.com.

Vescari Chestor

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I entered the watch collecting hobby as a small-wristed guy in a big watch world. While I still buy and enjoy some watches over 42mm, I am always on the lookout for 38-40mm models that better fit my wrist, look more appropriate with a suit, and consequently, get worn more often. Lucky for me, there are a growing number of several microbrand and independent watchmakers releasing new models in mid-sized cases. The Vescari Chestor is one of the latest. They let me test drive one ahead of their late March Kickstarter launch. 

Vescari Chestor blue

The Chestor is a mid-sized quartz chronograph with a decidedly dressy aesthetic featuring a sunray dial, plenty of brightwork, and not a dot of lume. Water resistance is 50m, which is more than sufficient for most daily wear, but short of what you would expect in a more sporting watch. It measures 40mm wide, 48mm long, and 13.6mm thick, proportions that fit comfortably on my 6.75” wrist and slide under a buttoned shirt cuff without fuss.

Vescari Chestor blue wrist shot

At first glance, I thought the Chestor was closer to 38 or 39mm, a trick of the eye produced by the reflections of its polished and beveled bezel. The mirror finish continues on the bezel’s sides. A polished chamfer along the outer edge of the lugs provides a pleasant contrast to the longitudinally brushed sides and tops. The cylindrical chronograph buttons are also polished, as are the raised surfaces on the signed crown. It’s an elegant look and more interesting to my eye than if every surface had been polished.


Vescari Chestor blue

I received a dark blue dial variant for this review; a shimmering navy that goes deep purple in low light. There is a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock and a 60-minute at 9. Their indexes and the chapter ring are printed in white. All hands, indicators, and markers are polished. The watch does suffer from the inevitable legibility issues that occur when you place reflective elements over a dark, glossy surface, but the facets on the alpha hands handle, and markers go far to alleviate this problem under most light conditions. The dial text is restrained, only the Vescari brand name really registers, and I consider this to be a good thing. 

Vescari Chestor blue

An anti-reflective coated mineral crystal tops it off. I love the vintage bubble effect of that high dome but wish it were a different material. Mineral crystals are pretty tough, but you can still scratch them, and when it happens, there is nothing you can do about it. I’ll take acrylic and a tube of Polywatch scratch remover any day, or I’ll pay a little more for the scratch proof qualities of sapphire. 

Vescari Chestor blue

A Miyota 6s21 movement runs the show. It's hard not to compare it the Seiko MechaQuartz. The Miyota lacks the Seiko’s mechanical module, so it gives up snap-back reset, and its 1/4 second sweep hand is a beat slower than its rival’s, but its pushers have the same positive click, and its four-beat sweep is leagues better than the usual jumpy quartz tick.

Vescari Chestor blue strap

In addition to the blue and steel version reviewed here, Vescari will offer the Chestor in six different color combinations including black or silver dials in black or rose gold PVD cases, or a rose gold bezel. Buyers can order bracelets, leather crocodile print straps, or the leather-backed canvas on my sample. I rather liked it. The fabric is smooth like sailcloth, and the strap is neatly tailored, tapering from 20mm to an 18mm buckle. It is a most casual look in the collection but not so much that it was out of place on the buttoned-up Chestor.

Pre-order pricing promises to be very aggressive, starting at €119 (about $134.60 USD) for early birds. The bracelet and extra straps are just an extra €15 a piece. At that price, it is hard to say no. The Vescari Chestor will launch on Kickstarter March 27, but in the meantime, be sure to check out the preview page. ⬩

Vescari Chestor case back


Hoffman Racing 40

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I have been known to indulge in an impulse purchase every now and then. The Hoffman Racing 40 was my latest. When this chronograph popped up on Kickstarter, I looked past the cringe-worthy, “reinventing the sports watch” pitch, and instead focused on its clean design, interesting color options, ceramic bezel, and tempting Super Early Bird prices. “Why not?” I thought and put my $169 down for a yellow dial, Seiko MechaQuartz model.

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz yellow

As you might have guessed from its name, the watch has a 40mm wide stainless steel case, although the stats more salient to wearability might be its 48mm length and 12mm thickness, which place it right in the sweet spot on my 6.75” wrist. The case sides are polished and ever so slightly bowed. The crown, buttons, and bezel all follow suit. The crown is signed and screws down, although I have to wonder why as the Driver is only rated for 50m water resistance. Surely a push-pull would have sufficed. 

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz side view

The tops of the lugs are brushed and that simple feature is the most polarizing element on the watch. I generally love a combination of finishes but on this one, that brushing is rough. I mean, really rough. You could grate cheese on those things. A look back at the Hoffman’s Kickstarter page shows that this is not a mistake, but a deliberate design decision. That heavy texture was present right from the start. It is a sharp contrast against the otherwise smooth surfaces and certainly imparts a degree of character, but I would have preferred a smoother, more conventional finish. To me, it just looks raw.

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz yellow

That quirk aside, the Racing 40 is a rather well-resolved design. The glossy black ceramic insert and engraved tachymetre scale go a long way to making it look more expensive than it is. A flat sapphire crystal rises high over the bezel. Normally, I’d have preferred it flush, but here I like the way that pronounced edge accentuates the crystal’s thickness.

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz yellow

Of course, it was the dial that drew my attention in the first place. It is a two-layered affair with a yellow disk over a black base that shows at the minute index and subdials. It is a curious yellow, changing from golden mustard to a bright chrome depending on the light. I dig it with the black. Dial text is understated, printed in a sparse, modern sans-serif with generous tracking. 

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz yellow

Polished and faceted hands show only a slight taper at their flat tips, lending a subtle streamlined touch. Their lumed channels accompany dots of lume that form the hour markers. I like the openness it affords, keeping your focus on the seconds and subdials. Where it fails, is in nighttime legibility. I don’t know what kind of luminous material they used but is pretty weak, losing its useful glow in no time flat. Even after zapping it with a UV light I struggled to snap my picture before it started fading.

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz lume

The case back is engraved with the Hoffman brand, the watch’s serial number, and other key facts, but it is otherwise fairly plain. Behind it lies a Seiko VK64 MechaQuartz movement. A darling of the microbrand world, the MechaQuartz marries a quartz timekeeper to a mechanical chronograph module. The result has a smooth 1/5th-second sweep, snap-back reset, and a mechanical click to its actuators. 

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz case back

If there is one thing on this watch that screams “lowest bidder” it is the strap. A 20mm black crocodile-embossed leather strap should be easy to get right, but this one is stiff, shiny, and it just looks cheap. I took advantage of its quick release spring pins to get it the heck off of there. I replaced it with this excellent Quilted Black Leather strap ($24 from Manchester Watch Works) and I couldn’t be happier. 

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz yellow, Manchester Watch Works strap

So how did this impulse buy work out? Well, the lume is weak and I’m not crazy about the brushing but I can easily live with both. The strap was a loser but easily swapped for something that better complements the Racing 40’s positive aspects like its eye-catching face and tidy proportions. After sitting for a few weeks while I had review samples in my rotation, I have found myself grabbing it on a regular basis. All in all, I’ve come to really like this sporty little bumblebee and I suspect it will be in the collection a long time.

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz yellow, wrist shot

You can still order a MechaQuartz Racing 40 from the Hoffman Crowdox site for $219. At that price, it is not quite the bargain it was on Kickstarter, but still pretty tempting. If you prefer a mechanical, they also offer a Seagull TY2901 model for an additional $199. For more information, visit HoffmanWatches.com. ⬩

Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz yellow
Hoffman Driver 40 MechaQuartz yellow




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