The Time Bum

What would you do with one extra hour every day? Sleep? Work? Spend quality time with your family? I’d like to say I’d do all of that, but it’s more likely I’d squander those precious moments shopping for more watches, because the minute Timex announced its 25th Hour Watch, that is precisely what I did, snapping up a gray men’s model for this review.

In late March, Timex released teasers on social media about a revolutionary new product. Many assumed this would be the Micro-Electrical-Mechanical-System (MEMS) nanotech movement that Timex announced in 2017 with an anticipated 2019 release. When the big announcement appeared on April 1, it was clear that we’d been had. Timex claimed that after generations of research, they had discovered a 25th hour in the day and created a watch to reflect it. Corporate April Fools jokes rarely work, but as I clicked through the announcement and watched the charmingly earnest video, I wondered if perhaps they had taken it all the way to production. A Bum’s gotta know.

The product page looked legit. Two models were offered, a 34mm women’s with a silver dial and a rose gold case, and a gray/gunmetal 40mm men’s. It had a very Timex price of $79. The only caveat was that it would only be available for 25 hours. I clicked “add to cart,” and it didn’t send me to an “April Fools!” page. I added the usual Timex 15% coupon, and it took that too. For $67.15 and free shipping, why not? I bought it. A couple of hours later, it was sold out.

I told Mrs. Time Bum about it that night. “So they made a watch as a joke,” she said, “and you actually bought one?” It’s nice to know I can still surprise her.

As stated on the case back, the 25th Hour Watch is a variant of the Timex Standard Model. It measures 40mm wide, 9mm thick, and is water resistant to just 30m. The case is coated base metal with a stainless steel back, wire style lugs, signed crown, and a 12-hour quartz movement. Sorry. It does not keep 25-hour time or jump past the nonexistent hour. This may be bad news for the joke but good news for the watch as you can use it if you simply ignore the prominent 25-hour index. They even provided a 12-hour index on the perimeter, just beyond the railroad minute track.

Dial printing is on par with other Timex watches, which is to say, a little spotty under a loupe, but just fine for normal use. You wouldn’t expect all those printed black markers to light up, and they don’t. Instead, you just push the crown and bask in Timex’s cherished blue Indiglo light.

Twenty-five numbers don’t squeeze onto a dial easily, so Timex gave us just the evens plus 25, highlighted by a tangerine orange wedge that matches the baton handset. The 6 o’clock position (or 12 on a standard 24-hour dial) is instead half past noon, throwing the lower half off in a way that is not helped by the cluster of teens at the bottom, creating the illusion that the gaps between the markers are smaller than at the top, even though they are not. They could have sidestepped it by only using hash marks, but that is hardly the point. Awkwardness is part of the gag.

And yet, I dig it. The gray dial, black markers, and lurid orange look fantastic together. The bold wedge reminds me of a “radio room” dial. The gunmetal case anchors the dial nicely. I appreciate that they matched the finish on the signed crown and buckle as well — a detail overlooked surprisingly often by folks who are designing watches that are intended to be taken seriously.

The strap is 20mm wide on quick release pins and made from the same SB Foot leather as Timex’s Red Wing offerings.

As mentioned above, both men’s and women’s versions sold out long before the 25-hour deadline was up. Timex is taking emails in case they make more. Frankly, I hope they done. After all, they implied that the 25th Hour would be a limited edition which would make the one in my hand a potential collector's item. Also, because that kind of joke is only clever once. But I do hope they use this same general layout and color wedge for a conventional watch. The 25th Hour Watch may be silly, but it is also a surprising testament to the strength of Timex’s design team.

For more information or to sign up for product announcements about another batch of 25th Hour Watches, visit Timex.com/25thHour. ⬩

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Montreal's Antoine Clérmont is now taking pre-orders on their debut collection - The Saint Martin.
This ultra-sleek timepiece is made with an all 316L stainless steel case and bracelet, sapphire crystal and features a water resistance of 100M. Powered by the Swiss Made Calibre 3520.D from Harley Ronda, you can reserve your Saint Martin now exclusively through Kickstarter - starting at only $179USD/$239CAN.

To ensure a luxurious look as well as a durable build, the case of the Saint Martin was forged using surgical grade 316L stainless steel. The total height of the case sits at 10mm, the bezel measures 41mm and the lug to lug comes in at 50mm - making it quite a universal size. The case has a heavy brushed finish with a high polished shine on the bezel edge, this contrast gives the Saint Martin a classy and sophisticated look.

Protecting the face of the watch, you'll find scratch-resistant sapphire glass. Coupled with the stainless steel case and screw-down crown, this combination gives the Saint Martin a healthy water resistance of 10ATM (100M).

The Saint Martin comes standard on a brushed stainless steel bracelet with an elegant butterfly style deployment clasp. Each end link of the bracelet is engraved with our "Fleur-de-lis" logo. Like the watch case, the bracelet is finished by hand, link by link. After machining, each individual link is sanded to remove any sharp edges. Next, the sides of each link are slightly polished to give it more of a shimmer. We then mask off the sides of the links to protect the finish, while we do a light sanding of the back and front of each link giving it its brushed look.

The dial of the Saint Martin includes luminous elements that aide in telling time under low light conditions. The hour and minute hands and the luminous beads adjacent to the hour markings, use SuperLuminova BGW9 which appears white under normal and glows a greenish-blue during low light conditions. The hour markings on the Saint Martin are also coated in luminous material. For these, we've used SuperLuminova C3 which glows green during low light conditions. This dual color setup is not only functional but gives the watch a unique glowing design.

Our vision for the Saint Martin was to create a timepiece that offered luxury, style, and functionality. Simple lines, clean dials and a classic look, the Saint Martin has designed and perfected during a period of 14 months. This is a watch designed to be timeless and versatile, a watch you can wear for work and for play. Every component is made from superior materials to ensure flawless operations for years to come.

You can view the now campaign by visiting the Clérmont Saint Martin Kickstarter page. ⬩

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echo/neutra is a new Italian watch brand founded by communications and branding expert Nicola Callegaro, and aerospace engineer Cristiano Quaglia. The friends found they shared a passion for both the rugged beauty of Italy’s Dolomite mountain range and for finely crafted objects that inspire an emotional bond. To this end, they have created the echo/neutra Averau collection, Swiss made mechanical watches that embody a timeless, contemporary design, now available for pre-order on Kickstarter.

The Dolomites are a place of majestic natural beauty that provides the backdrop and soul of the watches and the awesome mountains stir higher emotions and breathe new life into the echo/neutra team. Their first watch collection is dedicated to the Mount Averau also known as “Nuvolau Alto” and it is proposed in 4 versions, each reflecting the beauty of the passage of time over the inert rock, from the luminous and regenerating early morning hours, to dusk when the landscape turns a stunning pink.

Versante Nord is a matte black dial model inspired by the trails, immersed in the silence of the green forests in the shadow of the Dolomites. Strong and free, hit by the clear, intense light of the sun at high altitude is the black-on-black PVD Versante Sud. Battered by the wind and snow with peaks, austere and stately is the PVD black and sand Versante Est.

Versante Ovest is a sunray blue dial in a steel or PVD black case, caressed by a warm breeze that moves and tickles the conifer trees. Each collection will be dedicated to a mountain or an important site of the Dolomites. This refreshing take on the traditional field watch layout stands apart with its bold markers, and its arrow and bar handset.

The red and white tip of the second hand is an homage to the CAI (Italian Alpine Club) trail signage.

All Averau series watches share a three-piece case of brushed and polished 316L stainless steel case measuring 42mm wide (excluding crown), 49mm long, and 10.9mm thick with 20mm lugs. The crystal is AR-coated sapphire glass in front and K1 sapphire glass for the case back display window. Built for the outdoors, the watches feature Superluminova, a 10bar/100m water resistance rating, and a knurled, screw-down crown with an engraved logo of Mt. Averau.

Buyers may choose from two Swiss Made movements. The STP 1-11 offers 44 hours power reserve, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 26 jewels, a Nivaflex NM barrel spring, and an Incabloc shock absorber. The STP 3-13 has the same qualities but adds a swan neck regulator and hardened blue screws. The watches are Swiss Made and the movements hand assembled to ensure the highest quality

A variety of straps may be fitted, including Italian made brown or black water resistant leather or black Cordura. Stretch goals include a vintage NATO leather strap and a stainless steel bracelet.

The echo/neutra Averau Kickstarter campaign funded in the first 45 minutes but buyers can still secure a pre-order for as little as €420 ($475 USD), a 40% savings on the expected €720 retail price. Visit the echo/neutra Averau Kickstarter page for more information or to order your own. The campaign ends Thursday, May 2, 2019, at 2:00 pm EST. ⬩

Carrnegie Watches is the product of two young Canadians who bonded over their shared love of watches, and apparently, steel baron Andrew Carnegie, whose name they admittedly borrowed for their venture and altered with an additional "R" that makes me want to read it as if I were I pirate. That aside, they have a line of watches that offer a distinctive look for a very affordable price. There are dozens of color and strap variations available. In exchange for this review, they gave me a rose gold "Classic" model with a white dial and brown calf strap.

The Carrnegie’s most striking feature is its case, a slim, round body bracketed by steeply angled, hooded lugs. I must confess that I was not a fan when I first saw it. While the watch measures 41mm wide and 11.5mm from the case back to crystal, it is 49.5mm long, a fact highlighted by the shrouds at either end. My first thought was that those broad metal plates should flow into a matching bracelet. Instead, the abrupt transition to a strap accentuates their size, stealing attention from the dial.

That said, I appreciated the case design more after I had it in hand as its execution is really quite lovely. I like the contrast of the polished bezel against the north-south brushing on the lugs, the polished chamfer that surrounds its outermost edge, and the short vertical strokes on the case sides. It is a combination that creates an attractive layered effect in profile that makes the already thin case appear even slimmer. The polished crown bears an embossed double R logo and a toothy edge. A domed sapphire crystal tops it off, the arc and edge distortion further accentuating the roundness of the center section against the hard angles on the ends. Water resistance is a useful 50m, more than sufficient for a dress watch.

I had feared the boxy ends would be sharp, but while all the edges are crisp, they are also properly finished. The only element that seems slightly out of place is the exposed spring bar perches. The Carrnegie seems to be more of a dress watch than a sport watch, and while I have no issue with drilled lugs on a formal watch, in this case, they stand out against the flat surface, making the boxed ends appear more industrial. I would have preferred it if they had notched them underneath for spring bar access and left the sides clean.

The satin finished dial is listed as white but comes off as more of silvery pearl in person, which was a pleasant surprise. The applied markers are impressively tall, chiseled wedges that match the case finish as do the diamond-cut dauphine hands. Carrnegie went with a Seiko VK63 quartz movement that has a 1/5th-second sweep and day, date, and 24-hour registers. If you are going quartz, these smooth Seikos are an excellent choice. I find calendar dials challenging to read on any watch, so I am not too fussed about their function, but they do look quite lovely with their textured centers and long-tailed, rose gold hands.

As mentioned above, Carrnegie offers several straps in leather or rubber, fitted with buckles or deployant clasps. The Classic comes on a smooth calf leather strap with a signed pin buckle. It is perfectly nice and ... 19mm wide. I know a millimeter more or less can make or break a watch design, but I also think odd size strap widths are a crime against humanity. Oh, alright. Maybe not that bad, but it bugs me.

On the wrist, the Carrniegie’s unorthodox lug arrangement was quite comfortable. Its long case just about filled my 6.75” wrist but not in a way that appeared oversized. The proved to be a natural fit with a suit and an easy grab-and-go choice on those mornings when I was rushing to get myself to the office.

In the end, I found the Carrnegie to be an easy watch to recommend, even if it is not the watch for me. I never did warm up to look of boxed lugs and a strap, but I can see where others would like it, and I’m glad that Carrnegie took the risk and did something different. The execution is top notch, you can see their attention to detail. Best of all, the price is low — the Classic model reviewed here is just $179 USD.

If you are looking for an everyday dress watch and this unique look grabs you, head over to CarrnegieWatches.com. ⬩

Today, Los Angeles brand Collins has returned to Kickstarter with a new watch, the Hyperion. Like the Bronson and the Chronograph before it, the Hyperion is an attractive, sensibly priced piece that presents a distinctive spin on the traditional military watch. I got to sample a prototype ahead of the launch.

Collins has established a solid design theme with its previous offerings and the Hyperion does not diverge the formula so much as it improves upon it. The stainless steel case is nearly identical to that of the Bronson, measuring 40mm wide, 48mm long, and 12mm thick. It retains the same flat sides, crisp edges, and fixed bevelled bezel, but where the first watch was blasted for a matte finish, the Hyperion has circular brushing on the top surfaces and longitudinal brushing along the sides, which goes far to emphasize the case's athletic lines. A black PVD coating is optional. The display case back has also been modified, allowing a better look at the Hyperion's 26 jewel, 28.8k bph, Swiss Sellita SW200 automatic movement, and custom rotor.

These watches are intended for real-world use, and as such, they are built to take a few knocks. The Hyperion wears a 100m water resistance rating and a domed, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal (the rear exhibition window is sapphire as well).

Collins Brand’s aesthetics are firmly rooted in vintage recording studio equipment, and you can see that influence in the tall typeface and delightful “volume knob” crown. The Hyperion’s dial is more open than previous models’, employing numbers at only the four primary hours. The black date window is in the 4:30 position, drawing less attention than the Bronson’s bracketed 3:00 date. Pilot style, black, dagger-shaped hands make their return, but the delicate, “volume unit meter needle” has been replaced with a more conventional second hand. Sure, it loses some of its studio cred, but makes up for it with vastly improved legibility.

Old Radium SuperLuminova graces the hands, markers, and even the brand name for a mellow, aged look in the daytime and a bright green glow at night. Tan on black may be my favorite color scheme for any watch. It looks lovely here too, but Collins has another trick up his sleeve: carbon fiber. I have not seen the material on a Hyperion dial, (photo courtesy of Collins) but I did see a carbon Bronson at the DC Watch Show a couple of years ago and it blew me away. The high gloss and mesmerizing weave give it such amazing depth that the printed markers appeared to float over it. I said then that if they ever made another one, I would buy it, and I just did. Seriously, you would have had to fight me for one of those beauties.

I sampled the watch on its thick green nylon Zulu and handsome oil-tanned leather straps and found that like previous Collins watches, the Hyperion was an excellent fit on my 6.75” wrist, displaying satisfying tool watch presence without being overpowering. Both the nylon and leather straps feature signed hardware. The engraving on the Zulu’s upper keeper is a particularly nice touch.

Collins' took an evolutionary approach to the new watch. It may have familiar elements, but having sampled both the original Bronson and the next-generation Hyperion (and the Chronograph to boot), I can tell you the Hyperion is the superior watch. I really like the Bronson, its Seiko movement, and its $325 starting price, but the Hyperion's finish, domed crystal, and Sellita movement put it a notch above.

Pre-order pricing is higher than previous Collins models, but still rather aggressive. Super Early Birds will get the first 20 watches for as low as $395 for a brushed steel finish, $425 for black PVD, and $455 for that dazzling carbon fiber dial. Of course, prices will rise as the early tiers sell out, but all of the Kickstarter backers will enjoy significant savings compared to the starting retail price of $695, which is, frankly, exactly what you would expect to pay for a watch like this.

For more information or to snag a Collins Hyperion of your own, head over to the Kickstarter page now. The funding campaign ends May 30, 2019 at 3:00 PM EST. ⬩

Time for another giveaway! This month, you can win the very Carrnegie Classic dress watch I reviewed here (ARV $179). It has a smooth sweeping Seiko VH34 quartz, and a uniquely elegant 41mm rose gold PVD case.

All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. You get entries for Instagram visits, but it would be awfully nice if you would follow us too. A winner will be drawn after midnight May 31, 2019.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law. You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter!

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good Luck!

PRiSM Watches of Geneva, Switzerland is about to launch Kickstarter pre-orders for their first model. This stylish automatic boasts a unique style in five variants: the Premium Rebellion (black or white dials in brushed stainless cases), and the Smart Metropolitan (black or white dials with black PVD cases and/or case elements). They let me test a Full Black Smart Metropolitan for this review.

Prism Smart Metropolitan Swiss automatic black

PRiSM’s founders are understandably proud of their Swiss heritage so it is no surprise that their watch is Swiss made. Its heart is a Sellita SW200-1. Based on the venerable ETA 2824 design this 28.8k bph automatic has 26 jewels, a 38-hour power reserve, 3 o’clock date display, and an engraved rotor visible through the Metropolitan’s sapphire exhibition window.

Prism Smart Metropolitan Swiss automatic black back

A mix of brushed and polished surfaces complements the large 44mm case. I found the glossy accents on the tops of the lugs and slim side edges of the bezel and case back to be particularly appealing on this blacked-out model. It has a flat sapphire crystal and a push-pull crown. Water resistance is a modest 30m, a sign that the watch is intended more for fashion than sport.

From a modest peaked bulge of a guard rises the PRiSM’s most striking element, a 12-faceted, diamond-shaped crown. If a Cartier turned evil and wanted to stab you, the PRiSM’s crown might be its weapon of choice. I have mixed feelings about this. On the one hand, it is certainly distinctive and it mirrors the brand’s crystal logo. Pointy ends notwithstanding, it was perfectly comfortable on my wrist. Everyone wears their watch a little differently, but I never found it anywhere approaching poking distance of the back of my hand. On the other hand, it felt awkward to use as its broadest part is positioned closest to the case.

Prism Smart Metropolitan Swiss automatic black crown

Turning to the dial, we find the 12 facets repeated on its surface, creating an intriguing display as it catches the light. All markers are cut away, even the minute track, revealing a bright SuperLuminova layer below. I’m a sucker for sandwich dials and this one is no exception. The combination of the depth with the reflections is quite satisfying. One interesting choice was the way they used three dots at 3 o’clock. It makes sense as there is no room for a matching numeral and too much space between the date and the minute track to leave it empty, but it also makes me wonder if the dial would have made more sense if the watch were a couple millimeters smaller and the date window could have filled that space on its own.

Prism Smart Metropolitan Swiss automatic black lume

In dress watch fashion, they went with polished and faceted dauphine hands but added a sliver of lume on each. Polished hands on a dark dial tend to become invisible in the wrong light so the channel of white lume is a welcome touch. The second hand has an open spear tip and provides the only pop of color, bright blue on this Smart Metropolitan, green on the Premium Rebellion.

Prism Smart Metropolitan Swiss automatic black wrist

My biggest complaint is its logotype; wildly stylized with the image of a crystal serving as the “i” in PRiSM, it is too large and very dated. In fact, it is strikingly similar to the typeface used on the 1982 album “The Message” by Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five. It’s not quite old enough to be charming, and even if it was, it is in the wrong context. That said, I am of a generation that remembers the 80’s all too well. Someone in their 20’s may very well view it in a very different light.

The strap is 22mm black leather with minimal white stitching tapering to a 20mm signed buckle. As I expected, the 44mm wide, 52mm long PRiSM looked large on my 6.75” wrist. This is not out of line for a modern sports watch, but while the Smart Metropolitan has some sporty aspects, it lacks tool watch utility. This one is really more about weekend style.

Prism Smart Metropolitan Swiss automatic black strap

The PRiSM Kickstarter campaign is expected to launch May 1 with Early Bird prices starting at 535 CHF ($525 USD). Full retail will be 990 CHF ($970 USD). If you find the Smart Metropolitan fits your fashion sense, head over to PrismWatches.com for information and announcements. ⬩

Prism Smart Metropolitan Swiss automatic black side

On May 5, Monachus Watches will launch a Kickstarter campaign for a watch with a fully custom case pattern. Not the case finish or a choice of PVD coatings, but a customer-provided graphic image wrapped to fit and bonded to the surface.

They achieve this by a process called hydro dipping, in which an image is printed onto a water-soluble film and transferred onto an immersed item, allowing the picture to wrap the surface. The result is highly durable and resistant to extremes of heat and cold, so you often see hydro dipped images applied to car parts and motorcycle helmets. To my knowledge, no one has tried it on watch cases.

Color and detail should be excellent, so the only limit is your imagination. Want blue marble? Sure. Camo? Of course! Red snakeskin? Absolutely. Actual snakes wriggling all over it? Weird, but hey, it’s your watch. If you have the image, they can put it on the case.

The Monachus has a 42mm stainless steel cushion case with scalloped corners that looks attractive enough on its own and should provide ample surface area for illustrations. Under the sapphire crystal is a black or white horizontally textured dial, applied and polished bar markers, and semi-skeletonized hands filled with lume. A Swiss Ronda 763 quartz runs the show. Customers may choose a variety of rubber or leather straps.

I haven’t seen any more than the renders here, but I am intrigued by the concept. Prices will range from about £250 to £400 ($322 - $516 USD). For more information and to sign up for alerts, visit http://monachuswatches.co.uk/

Aquatico is a Hong Kong-based watchmaker that has a growing variety of aggressively priced tool watches in its collection. The brand gave me two watches in exchange for this review: a black dial Oyster diver and a green dial Bronze Blue Angels aviator. With Seiko automatic movements, quality materials, and attractive dive and pilot designs, they seemed to be exactly what The Bum was looking for. Sadly, they were not.

Both watches run on reliable Seiko automatic movements. The Oyster packs the popular 24 jewel, 21.6k bph NH35. It hacks, hand winds, and has a date complication, Diashock protection, and a 41-hour power reserve. The Bronze Blue Angel uses the NH35’s cousin, the NH37A, a nearly identical variant that adds a 24-hour display.

I was most interested in the Bronze Blue Angels as it wasn’t all that long ago that bronze cases were a novelty, and precious few were made in anything other than a dive style. Also, having read Joshua Clare-Flagg’s review of the lovely stainless steel Blue Angels, I had high hopes for this one. That said, the Bronze Blue Angels is a very different watch from the steel, really sharing no more than the name. Still, I was excited to put it through its paces.

The Bronze Blue Angels' brushed case is 43mm wide, 51.5mm long, and 12.5mm thick from the case back to its flat sapphire crystal. This puts on the large side, but not at all out of line for a pilot’s watch, and even on my 6.75” wrist, it is entirely appropriate for weekend wear. The stainless steel case back carries a simple image of four fighter jets in formation.

For an aviator’s piece, the Bronze Blue Angels is remarkably watertight. It is rated for 300m water resistance, which is a good 250m better than most pilot’s watches and 299.9m more than you would ever want to use in an aircraft. It is the kind of overkill I am happy to accept.

In keeping with its pilot theme, the watch is fitted with a straight cut 22mm leather strap and a broad, signed, flat-tang bronze buckle. While the leather appeared to be of only average grade, I loved the style and finish buckle.

That screw-down crown at 3 o’clock pulled me right in. I have a love/hate relationship with large crowns in that I love their ease of use and the fact that they offer so much area in which a designer can do something cool. On the other hand, I hate the way a large crown can spoil the lines of a case, especially when the designer opts for a dull, chunky cylinder. In this case, the big boy has been done right. The Bronze Blue Angel’s fluted, flattened onion shape offers visual interest and more than adequate grip without appearing bulbous or awkward.

The rich and mossy matte green dial bears the rough sand texture now commonly found on several vintage-style watches. While the minute track and all markers are raised, I was disappointed to see that they are not applied, but molded and printed in gold, resulting in a softer, less defined effect than I would have preferred. More concerning is the presence of what appears to be white paint in the crooks of some of the numbers.

Aquatico Bronze Blue Angels dial problems

Brushed gold hands and an orange-tipped second hand acquit themselves much better. Vintage C3 SuperLuminova provides a fine nighttime glow. The 24-hour display in the upper left quadrant is a distinctive touch that pushes the handsome Aquatico name to the bottom of the dial.

All in all, the Bronze Blue Angels' style and layout works well, but the execution leaves something to be desired, even at its very affordable $279 price point.

Turning my attention to the Oyster, I found more of what I was hoping for. At $329 it is more expensive than the Bronze Blue Angels but still quite inexpensive. The brushed stainless steel case is a 1970’s style tonneau with integrated lugs and polished chamfers along the upper and lower edges that break up the heavy slab and slim its profile. It measures a prodigious 44mm wide but only 49mm long, and 13.5mm thick, making it very a wearable weekend companion. You wouldn’t mistake it for a dress watch, but it manages to cut the right athletic, tool watch figure without going overboard.

Its recessed 3 o’clock crown has deep, broadly spaced grooves, and a beveled head signed with Aquatico’s dolphin logo. Of course, it screws down. The case is rated for an impressive 500m water resistance.

Bezel action was very good, offering positive grip and a firm, mechanical feel as it made its 120-click rotation. The glossy black ceramic insert, engraved and filled with C3 and an orange accent at the pip was a real treat.

It comes off as a solid, respectable piece but closer inspection revealed a couple of wayward details. Those polished chamfers look smart until you squint a bit and notice the total lack of sharpness on the edges and corners. Have a look at the macro shots to see the way the polishing peters out on the lug, and the brushing overlaps the edges.

Another, smaller disappointment was the way the case back doesn’t fit flush against the underside of the barrel. Obviously, most dive watches have a protruding case back, but they generally make an effort to make the surfaces meet, usually with a shallow angle on the lid. Moreover, this is typically an issue with threaded case backs that must screw down into the bottom surface. The Oyster’s is fastened with five Torx screws, meaning it fits straight in with no rotation.

A case back of that type could be any shape, but this one is flat and partially recessed into the curved case. As a result, it sits too low at the top and bottom, and too high on the sides, creating an unsightly lip all around. Unlike the sloppy chamfers, you will not notice this when the watch is on, and it does not affect comfort in any way, but it is just one more detail that lets down what would otherwise be a satisfying case.

The dial is a fairly traditional layout, featuring applied and polished bar markers, sword hands and a bright orange second hand over a black sunray surface. All are filled with C3. An applied BGW9 chapter index overlays the dial; its cutouts fitting neatly around the markers. Lume glow is excellent, glowing brightly and lasting long after you have ventured into the dark.

Aquatico Oyster and Bronze Blue Angels lume

But again, a positive first impression was let down under further scrutiny. I could not shake the feeling that the minute track seemed a little less than crisp and my macro revealed that I wasn’t wrong. Neither the edges nor the printing is especially clean, giving it a somewhat fuzzy look.

Finally, the Oyster ships on a 22mm carbon fiber print strap with bright orange stitching and a signed, pre-V style buckle. I like that the pattern is the same on the underside, but unfinished sides reveal the layers and spoil the effect. Also, and I'll admit that this is my own hang-up, I don’t understand how anyone can offer a 500m diving watch with just a leather strap. If you are not going to supply a bracelet, then a waterproof strap is a must, even if it is just a nylon NATO. This is an easy fix, but why sell a watch that is not properly equipped for its stated purpose?

As noted above, both watches have their fine points and Aquatico’s pricing is aggressive, even more so if you take advantage of the code “thetimebum” for $20 off your purchase; however, there are too many flaws on both watches for me to recommend either one. ⬩

Minuteman Watch Co., a leader in American-born hand-crafted wristwatches, is raising money and support for the brave men and women who help save lives as emergency responders across the globe with the nonprofit Team Rubicon by crafting a special watch in their honor.

The Minuteman Team Rubicon A11 is a watch built to honor the spirit of selflessness and comradery exhibited by the military and its veterans, who continue to serve long after their tours of duty are over by partnering with Team Rubicon. Team Rubicon’s emergency response teams respond to disasters to help the afflicted throughout the country and the world.

The Team Rubicon A11 pays homage to the brave veterans who volunteer for Team Rubicon by including a monochromatic Team Rubicon logo on the watch face. In addition, a portion of each Team Rubicon A11 sold goes to support the Team Rubicon mission of serving vulnerable and at-risk populations affected by disasters.

“Many of the volunteers who join Team Rubicon are veterans,” says Minuteman Watch Co. Founder Thomas Carey. “When our customers look at their watches, we want them to see more than just the time. We want them to see what makes this country special. Pride, precision, dedication and compassion – that’s what goes into each Minuteman watch, and that’s what the men and women of Team Rubicon share with the world.”

Specifications:

Stainless Steel case
Heavy duty 2pc nylon strap
Sapphire crystal
Width without crown: 38mm
Water resistant: 100 meters
Thickness: 10.5mm
Lug width: 20mm
Lug tip to lug tip length: 45mm
Ameriquartz 7122 quartz movement assembled in the USA by FTS
Luminous hands and dial

The Minuteman Team Rubicon A11 watches are currently on sale for the price of $210. Full retail will be $250. A portion of the profits from each watch will be given to the Team Rubicon chapter in the country where the watch is purchased.

To find out more and to buy a Team Rubicon A11, go to www.minutemanwatches.com. ⬩

I’ve been a fan of the BOLDR Odyssey ever since I first laid hands on prototype back in April 2017. I liked the burly diver so much that I purchased a gunmetal gray White Storm model for myself. Since then, BOLDR has kept the line fresh with variations like bronze and forged carbon cases, and meteorite dials. For 2019, they have introduced two more: the vintage Odyssey Cali and the bracelet-equipped Odyssey Metal. They sent me a Full Metal blue dial prototype press loaner to review. Bear in mind that like many prototypes, this one has seen its fair share of use and likely more than a couple of dial swaps along the way, so pardon the odd nick or dust speck.

Like previous Odysseys, the new models use the same 45.5mm wide, 52mm long stainless steel case, which puts the watch right at the physical limits of my 6.75” wrist. Moreover, while the case itself may be 14.5mm thick, this figure grows to a mighty 16mm when measured from the case back to the top of the domed sapphire crystal. It’s a bruiser, but that is exactly the point as it is both a bold sports watch and statement piece. I love the look, but while I can get away with wearing my Odyssey on leather, the bracelet makes it appear even larger, dwarfing my relatively small wrist. The Full Metal version is really made for a bigger guy than The Bum.

BOLDR Odyssey 2019 Full Metal Blue wrist

As before, the angular lugs, chiseled crown guards, and Panerai Submersible-styled porthole bezel give it an aggressive, industrial look. Bezel action was good on this sample but not as tight as my production White Storm. I would chalk this up to the fact that it is a prototype rather than any indication of how the finished product might function. What will not change, is the beveled bezel edge, which steals just a little bit of grip where you need it most.

The fat, gear-toothed, signed crown also makes a comeback, and I could not be happier. I thought this peaked and split design was one of the highlights of the original watch and it is just as impressive here.

BOLDR Odyssey 2019 Full Metal Blue crown

Of course, rugged looks mean nothing if the watch can’t back it up, and the Odyssey has no issue on this front. It is rated for 500m water resistance and features a triple-lock screw down crown, screwed-in case back, helium release valve, double-domed and anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, and a 120-click unidirectional bezel. Inside, BOLDR has traded the old Seiko NH35 for a Swiss Sellita SW200-1, a 26 jewel, 28.8k bph automatic based on the ETA 2824-2 design.

The Metal model’s new dial has the same markers and handset as the original but this time on a sand-textured gradient surface. It is a solid, legible layout in traditional dive watch fashion, made all the more attractive by the deep blue-to-midnight transition. A black 6 o’clock date is a nice touch. C3 SuperLuminova on the hour and second hands and markers glows bright green and gets a touch of contrast from the BWG9 bezel pip and minute hand.

The most striking new feature is its bracelet, a heavy, brushed piece with solid end links, screws, and a ratcheting extension clasp that is signed on the flip-lock. Paired with the chunky case and all steel bezel, it is easy to see why BOLDR call this the “Full Metal” version. As striking as the blue and steel model may be, the sinister PVD black case model with the red gradient dial is a mighty tempting option.

BOLDR tends to go all out on case backs, this time choosing an embossed, fancifully illustrated compass on a matte blasted background. Yes, it does say “ETA 2824-2” back there, but again, this is a pre-production sample. You can expect the final to be factually accurate.

BOLDR Odyssey 2019 Full Metal Blue case back

You may pre-order the new Odyssey for $519 USD, a $140 savings over the expected $659 MSRP. This is a jump up over the old Seiko-powered version, which is still available for $449, but the bracelet and Swiss movement do come at a price, and the new model still contains all the design elements that made the original such a treat. For more information or to place your pre-order, visit www.boldrsupply.co.⬩

BOLDR Odyssey 2019 Full Metal Blue clasp

German watch manufacturer Hanhart has added a new variant to its popular Primus Pilot collection. Long known for its aviation chronographs, Hanhart also produced watches for the German Navy. The Primus Carrier Pilot pays tribute to this history with a striking royal blue dial.

Aircraft carriers provide a logical link between sea and sky, and the Carrier echoes this in more than just the blue color of the dial and canvas strap. Like the rest of the Primus Pilot series, the watch has highly legible hands and indexes, a matte finished case, and flexible lugs that make this 44mm watch comfortable to wear.

The blue dial and canvas strap with leather inlay give the watch a unique look in combination with the gray matte steel case, yet the updated design does not neglect traditional Hanhart features like the fluted bezel with red index inlay and the red pusher. Like in the 30s, Hanharts new chronograph has a bicompax dial, with subdials at 3 o'clock (30-minute) and 9 o’clock (small seconds).

The PRIMUS Carrier Pilot is now available at Hanhart.com for €2740, or at their US retailer WatchBuys.com for $2970 USD.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

MOVEMENT

Automatic chronograph movement HAN3809

28,800 a / h, 4 Hz, 28 jewels

Power reserve at least 42h

FUNCTIONS

Stop function minute and second

Small second

30-minute counter

Date

CASE

Matt stainless steel sandblasted with flexible lugs

Red pusher, anodized aluminum

Diameter 44 mm, height 15 mm

Convex, one-sided, mirrored sapphire crystal

Screwed crown

Case back secured by screws with sapphire crystal

Fluted bezel with red markings

Waterproof up to 10 bar / 10 ATM according to DIN 8310

DIAL

Royal blue

Super-LumiNova® coated numerals, hands and indices

STRAP

Textile blue with leather inlay for comfort

Folding clasp made of matt sandblasted stainless steel

⬩

Every watch collection has a place for a grab-it-and-go dress watch. It will most likely be quartz for those mornings when the kids are moving slowly, the cat throws up, and you have neither the time nor the patience to set the time and date on a mechanical. It should have a clean, conservative design that goes with everything so you won’t get to the office, look at your wrist, and think, “wait, why did I wear purple and gold on the day I’m meeting with the Chairman?” But of course, it also needs to be a watch worth owning in the first place. You are a watch fan after all. Enter the Kingsbury Monarch II, a competent all-arounder that is currently on sale for a mere $89.

I try not to be a movement snob. Mechanical movements may be the darlings of the watch enthusiast word, but there is nothing wrong with quartz. Indeed, it is often the more practical choice. That said, some interest me more than others. One such movement is the Seiko VH31 in the Kingsbury, which moves at 4 beats per second. It may not be the buttery sweep of a 28.8k bph ETA 2824 or even the 24.6k of a Seiko NH35, but it is considerably cheaper than either and has a smoothness that I find far superior to the usual jumpy quartz tick.

The Monarch II has a 42mm stainless steel case and 22mm lugs, which is a touch large for a traditional dress watch, but not unreasonable given the current fashion. It certainly fits my 6.75” wrist just fine and slides under a shirt cuff without a fuss. Polished accents at the bezel’s edge, case back and crown create a pleasant contrast to the otherwise brushed finish. The size and finish also allow it an easy transition between workday and weekend outfits. Its signed, 3 o’clock crown is a push-pull and coupled with the snap-on case back, it sufficiently seals the watch for 50m water resistance. This is more than necessary for a dress watch and enough for most outdoor activities. I wouldn't recommend prolonged submersion, but then again, it’s just not that kind of watch.

Polished and faceted markers and dauphine hands dress up the Monarch II. You will notice a sliver of white in the hands and no, it is not lume. I wish it were, as I like to read my dress watches as night, but it does prevent the hands from disappearing against the dark dial in daylight, and that is a step in the right direction. A flat mineral crystal tops it off.

The alligator-embossed black leather strap may not be the most inspiring, but it is perfectly serviceable and I am glad that they chose a matte finish instead of the more common, and often cheap looking, high gloss. A brown strap is also offered.

My biggest complaint about the Monarch II is that it feels too light. Tapping a finger against the case back brings an empty sound. This is strictly a matter of perception, but it feels insubstantial. Of course, the watch has all the steel and glass it needs, but this is the inevitable result when you put a small movement in a large case.

On the whole, the Monarch II does its job quite well. It will be appropriate for most any occasion, it is adequately protected for daily wear, it provides quartz convenience with a nearly mechanical sweep, and best of all, it’s cheap enough to be your next impulse buy. Head over to KingsburyWatch.com and see for yourself. At $89, I doubt they will last long. ⬩

This sponsored post is a paid advertisement. All content was provided by the brand.

Kronhauser is a German watch start-up which has just launched their online shop selling their very first timepieces out to the world. The five-man team around Kronhauser wanted to create a wristwatch that is timeless, powerful and sympathetic at once. The wristwatch comes in classy style with modern features, characterized by great attention to details. The longevity of the product is assured by using a reliable mechanical movement and a careful selection of quality materials.

Their first watch collection is proposed in two versions: Dark Blue Sunburst and Silver-Opaline. Both dial colors have that certain shimmer and are brought in perfect harmony with the colors of the hands and numerals in Old Radium or Blue.

The cylindrical case bezel surrounds a particularly large dial area and contrasts the classic case design with its flowing lines. On the robust sapphire front glass, the mounted magnifying glass makes the date display appear large and clear. Also, the differently weighted sizes of the numerals, the notably long lengths of the hands and their tapering towards the end as well as the Kronhauser logo – a stylized crown consisting of six little houses – embossed on the crown of the case make the Kronhauser Automatic a distinctive character.

The Kronhauser Automatic carries the automatic movement Miyota 821A with a power reserve of 38 hours. The case has a diameter of 40mm, the back of the 6-fold screwed glass bottom releases a view on the automatic movement. The front glass is made of sapphire and the watch has a water resistance of up to 5 bar.

A variety of straps fit the watch, including strong cowhide leather, calf leather with crocodile pattern, suede as well as mesh. All leather straps also feature a quick-change system which make the replacement more than easy.

Specifications

Miyota 821A automatic movement
38-hour power reserve
40 mm stainless steel case
Case height 11 mm
20 mm lug
Glass base secured by 6 screws
Sapphire glass
5-bar water tightness
2 year warranty

To find out more or buy one of Kronhauser’s timepieces give their shop on kronhauser.com a visit and be sure to check out their Instagram profile.⬩

Lesablier Watches has been rather busy for a relative newcomer in the microbrand watch scene. The Virginia-based brand launched the Aviateur VQ 24-hour watch last spring, exhibited at District Time and LAMicroLux, and is now gearing up to launch an ambitious new model, the Sport Classic. I was lucky enough to be the first reviewer to get my hands on the full set of prototypes and let me tell you, they are amazing.

Lesablier Sport Classic Fumé Effect Skeleton

As you might have gathered from the name, the Sport Classic is designed to endure outdoor activities with a generous dose of panache. Outfitted with a screw-down crown, domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal, and SuperLuminova, and sealed for 100m water resistance, the Sport Classic is ready for anything short of scuba diving. It has a three-part, faceted stainless steel tonneau case, that is 40mm wide, 49mm long, and 14mm thick. That last figure gives the watch a sporty wrist presence despite its otherwise mid-sized measurements and dressier design elements.

Lesablier Sport Classic Blue Sunburst wrist

The crown is knurled with an intricate enamel-filled engraving of the brand’s namesake hourglass surrounded by a spiral leaf pattern. Like the rest of the watch, it deftly treads the line between sport and dress, incorporating elements of both.

There are multiple facets and finishes at play here: vertical brushing up the case sides, fine grain brushing across to top, bright polish on the case back and the facets over its hooded lugs, and finally, a corse grain brushed north-south on the bezel’s face. It is a striking design, at once elegant and aggressive. I see something Genta-esque in the overall geometry; maybe a hint of Patek Philippe Nautilus in the relationship between the case and bezel. Still, it is an underlying inspiration, not in any way a homage. Nicely done, Lesablier. Very nicely done.

Flipping the watch over, you will find an octagonal case back secured by eight screws. A matte blasted ring features the watch’s key specs and a Datejust style polished, fluted ring frames the sapphire display window. Inside, is a Miyota 8N40 skeleton. This 21 jewel, hand winding automatic has a 21.6k bph vibration rate, and a small seconds indicator.

The dial leans more ”classic” than “sport” but it is in no way staid. The long, polished hands look almost stiletto-sharp. BWG9 SuperLuminova keeps them bright at night and visible against the darker dials in daylight. Lume is still a work in progress, the particular applications varying from one prototype to another, but what I saw looks promising.

A railroad track index yields to a second ring containing Art Deco Arabic numbers in a radial format except for the 9 and 3, both of which are positioned straight up. The small seconds is offset at 5 o’clock, snipping off the top of the 5 and just barely overlapping the hour markers’ ring. Normally, that intruding bulge would bother me, I must concede that a subdial small enough to fit neatly within its confines would likely have looked undersized. As it is, it fills out the dial and imparts some character that is in keeping with the Sport Classic’s quirky charm.

Speaking of quirky, just like the Lesablier Aviateur VQ before it, each Sport Classic dial will bear its serial number on the dial as well as the case back. It’s a brand hallmark and one that will no doubt be popular with collectors who chase particular numbers.

There will be five variants in three case colors from which to choose: PVD gold with a black enamel dial, steel with white enamel, steel with blue with a blue sunburst dial, and steel or PVD black cases with a fumé effect skeleton dial. That last dial really caught my attention. A translucent center that darkens as it reaches the hour ring shows the movement beneath — not in the obvious (and often garish) manner of a true transparent skeleton dial but in more of a ghost effect. It looks fabulous, yet it does not in any way impede legibility.

The white dial is also worth a special mention. Where the others have all white printing and lightweight numbers, this one has black printing, heavier numbers filled with lume and outlined in black, and a white-on-black minute index. It is also the only version with a pop of color in the form of tiny red markers in the index and a red brand name and serial number. For as much as I liked the ghost dial, I found I chose the sportier white model more often.

Lesablier Sport Classic Ivory White Enamel

Each watch will come with two 22mm, quick release straps — one leather, one silicone — both with signed buckles. I had assumed that I would stick with the smooth, contrasting stitch leather, but I ended up wearing the slim, soft silicone as those straps are remarkably comfortable and a natural for the weekend wear. My only gripe was that they were quite long. On my 6.75” wrist I ended up wearing them on the very smallest adjustment, leaving far more tail than I would have liked.

The Lesablier Sport Classic will launch on Kickstarter June 28th. Super Early Birds will get the first 25 for $295, or 35% off. The next 25 will go for $320 and the remainder for $365. Full retail will be $455 after the campaign, $465 for gold or black IP cases.

I thoroughly enjoyed my week with the Sport Classics. These are handsome, practical watches with a unique design that attracts the right sort of attention from watch nerds and civilians alike. For more information and to sign up for updates, visit LesablierWatches.com. ⬩

Lesablier Sport Classic Ivory White Enamel wrist

Lesablier Sport Classic Blue Sunburst and Ivory White Enamel

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Danish watch brand Nordgreen has launched its latest Kickstarter campaign, demonstrating once again that creating affordable, quality-driven designer timepieces for the masses is achievable. The campaign is Nordgreen’s second Kickstarter project, the first of which raised $250,000 and is lauded as one of the most successful campaigns to ever run on the platform.

Based in Copenhagen, Nordgreen is a watch brand built on a Scandinavian-Danish aesthetic philosophy of timelessness, minimalism, and functionality. The brand, which sold over 10,000 watches in its first year, embodies the Danish commitment to balance: reminding us to treasure our time as well as count it.

Nordgreen’s latest collection is designed by the eminent Danish designer Jakob Wagner, an industry veteran who has designed for brands such as Bang & Olufsen, Cappellini, and Moroso, and has a permanent exhibition at MOMA in New York.

As a young, nimble start-up, Nordgreen is able to quickly adapt to market trends and customer demand, spurred by the philosophy of "keep inventing to keep being relevant." Indeed, Nordgreen tapped into the power of their community to shape their latest collection, listening to feedback and comments from their 10,000-strong customer base to create an organic connection between product, design, and customer. By using Kickstarter, Nordgreen enables its backers to create a timepiece that feels and behaves like it is uniquely theirs.

The Pioneer

The pinnacle of Nordgreen’s collection is its chronograph model, Pioneer. The watch represents everything Nordgreen stands for; beautiful, design-focused products that are functional for the way people live. The Nordgreen take on the Chronograph is a celebration of the Danish tradition of "Science for Humanity" a notion pioneered by generations of Danes and meant to establish - as the ultimate goal in design, science, and innovation - products aimed at creating a positive impact on humankind.

Danes have historically been pioneers in “good-making” for mankind. In 1904, Christian Bohr and Nobel Peace Prize winner August Krogh innovated in the field of insulin-treatment. Danes were also part of the research that established the Genome mapping. Furthermore, Danes have been at the forefront of the wind turbine revolution, becoming leaders in implementing sustainability in our everyday lives.

With the Pioneer, Nordgreen unveils a new segment in the Danish company's range, making its Chronograph the pinnacle of the Nordgreen design philosophy ecosystem. The design principles behind the watch are grounded in decades of Danish design. The 42mm Pioneer expresses all the minimalist principles dear to the company, with dedicated attention to details and attractive functionality.

The Pioneer by Nordgreen exemplifies Jakob Wagner’s design philosophy. Nordgreen’s take on the chronograph shines a light on the imperative by stripping down the superfluous. Thereby creating a contemporary timepiece that houses character while allowing its wearer to display a conspicuous statement immersed in Scandinavian design heritage.

This spectacular tribute to Danish Science for Humanity features two dials in the watch face. In the left dial of the watch, the minutes are counted while the dial on the right shows the seconds. On the right side of the watch houses the buttons to allow to start, stop and reset the movement.

The seconds hand, as well as the minute counter, features a red tip reminiscent of the design influence of sustainable energy windmills. This red dash of color on windmills used to make birds aware of their presence during their seasonal migrations and is presented in this watch as a reminder of the bond between Nordgreen and the sustainability of its motherland.

The Pioneer's beautifully rounded curves constitute Jakob Wagner design acumen in its purest form. Inspired by “earth and its evolution” Jakob design evokes nature itself where all sharp edges are eventually eroded away by wind, water, and other natural agents.

The design features domed sapphire crystal while the reliable Japanese quartz moved by Miyota, will be familiar to those who have previously owned a Nordgreen watch. Three different color dials are available - white, black and blue as well as three case colors - Gun Metal, Silver and, Gold. The 20 mm straps from other Nordgreen models, will fit the Pioneer to perfection, allowing its wearer to continue to express the style and options already perfected with other Nordgreen models.

Kickstarter rewards start at $200 USD, 41% off expected retail.

Native Re-Modelled

Embodying the bold yet timeless aestheticism of Copenhagen, the Native Re-Modeled is the second generation of Nordgreen’s best-selling timepiece. Subtle design updates reinvigorate the Native’s timeless identity, empowering the wearer with even more combinations and finishes. Reflecting customer feedback, the Native is available in both (32mm) 36mm and 40mm cases.

Nordgreen’s Giving Back Program empowers their wearers to support one of three sustainable causes. Through partnerships with NGOs, customers can provide two months of schooling for a child in India, two months of clean water for a person in the Central African Republic, or save 200 sq. ft of rainforest in Latin America.

The Native range already exemplifies Nordgreen’s attention to detail mixed with the elegant and

thoughtful design philosophy dear to the brand. Thanks to another masterful work by Danish designer Jakob Wagner, the Native combines a pure, sophisticated exterior with straight-forward functionality. The subtle updates to the Native aren’t meant to revolutionize the already timeless design but to further strengthen the relationship between the timepiece and the enduring disruptive aesthetic of its homeland, Copenhagen.

Designed to be in the balanced image of the city, this timepiece reminds us not to hurry and to remember to pause to enjoy our accomplishments, big and small. In the new design, the minute marks are in see-through ink, a tribute to the work-life balance in Copenhagen, because we don’t count minutes, we just enjoy quality time.

With the Native range - available in brand new case size 32mm (Native Lille) on top of the 36mm and 40mm - Jakob wanted to bring the design back to the fundamentals of a watch with a brilliantly classic look, redefined for the modern being. Staying true to Scandinavian minimalism, the re-modeled Native fortifies the link of the watch with the Danish capital, Copenhagen and renews its clean, attractive design with a choice of three different color dials - white, black and blue and three case colors - Rose Gold, Gold and Silver. Completing the updated look are rounded hands and domed glass.

By examining the watch up close, the design reveals a rounded case, clean dial, and rounded lugs. As per all Nordgreen watches, the beauty is in the details, as the longer 9 and 3 o’clock marks as a design special tribute to the balance of Danish life and culture.

The Native is a watch that suits a classic look for men and refined look for women, showcasing the remarkable ability to complete any outfit. Kickstarter rewards start at just $105 USD, 59% off expected retail.

For more information or to place an order, see the Nordgreen Kickstarter page. The campaign ends June 21, 2019. ⬩

You know the drill. You buy a new watch, breathlessly open the package to show it to your nearest and dearest, and they say, “That looks like all of your other watches.” I must admit that for the most part, they have a point. There is a certain commonality among watch designs and the minor shifts in the case or dial design that we fawn over, tend to go unnoticed by casual observers. To them, one black-on-white dress watch is as good as another and dive watches might as well be clones of each other (ok, often they are, but let’s move on). But every so often, a watchmaker will try something truly daring that will grab anyone’s attention. Humism has done exactly that, releasing three watches are that turn the traditional three hand dial into mesmerizing kinetic sculpture. They let me borrow a Dasein model for this review.

Humism watches are “mystery dial” designs in which disks replace hands. What makes this watch different is that all three have been cut away to create large sections of negative space that change shape as they move. The relatively rapid movement of the seconds disk gives it real dynamism. On the Dasein, it takes the form of an endlessly exploding 3D starburst radiating from the pinion, the shape changing ever so slightly as the minute and hour disks shift position. It looks amazing. My only issue with the disks is that you can see tiny points of bare metal on their edges, but you really have to squint to find them.

As cool as the kinetic illusion may be, it would be worthless if the watch did not also function effectively to tell time. Luckily, the design team did not overlook that point. Solid and hollow circles play the role of pointers, floating over a white dial on which hour markers have been scored into the surface. Unlike many novelty dials, the Humism does not require eyes like a falcon to read it or demand that you learn how to tell time all over again. The display is every bit as clear and intuitive here as it would be on a conventional watch face. The only thing lacking is a useful second hand, as that disk does not have a mark you can track. I suspect this was done for aesthetic reasons and given that the Dasein is more of a fashion statement than a tool, it is entirely forgivable.

Considering that the Humism’s face is its canvas, I half expected them to make it as large as possible. Instead, they opted for a modest 39mm wide, 11.5mm thick case. I think this is more than sufficient, not only because it fits my 6.75” wrist so well, but also because the spinning design already calls enough attention to itself. The fact that it is a unisex size doesn’t hurt either as I suspect this is piece will appeal equally to both genders,

The case is brushed stainless steel with a fixed, steeply angled bezel, a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal, and a useful fingernail notch under the signed crown. Water resistance is 50m, more than enough for daily wear. Around back is another sapphire lens through which you can view the Seiko NH35A movement inside (24 jewels, 24.6k bph, Diashock protected). These sturdy automatics are common, reliable, and easily serviced. They are not particularly decorated, but Humism has given theirs a dose of character in the form of a lever-pushing man etched into the rotor, reminding us that we are wearing a human-powered machine.

The Dasein came on a 20mm black Italian vegetable-tanned leather strap fitted with quick release pins and a signed buckle. It is a quality piece that anchors the somewhat trippy face. Milanese mesh is a $40 option.

I love what Humism has done with this watch, particularly considering its low $298 price tag. Still, I could not help but design the next model in my head. A higher beat 28.8k movement like a Miyota 9015 or ETA 2824 would smooth out the rotations a tad. The current Humism crop has no lume, and I think a full lume dial or lumed disks could be fantastic. I wonder how colors or metallics might play out. None of this takes away from what Humism is offering today; it’s just fun to speculate how much farther they can take it.

If you find the Humism Dasein as captivating as I do, head over to Humism.com where you can get more info, check out the equally appealing Eudaimonia and Geist variants, and place an order. ⬩

TACS is back with the new Rustic Brown Automatic Vintage Lens II (AVL II). This latest version of the wildly popular, camera-themed watch features rich, dark brown Horween leather strap.

TACS Automatic Vintage Lens II Rustic Brown

I’ve reviewed the AVL II before but I’ll hit the highlights here. It is an imposing watch, measuring 47mm wide (46.6 to be precise), over 51mm long and 16mm thick. TACS puts the size to good use, imbuing every millimeter of the watch with design cues that mirror those of a single lens reflex camera. The boxy camera-body case is black and brushed stainless steel, has a strap loop crown guard, and a diamond-cut texture on the crown and bezel.

A multi-layered fisheye sapphire crystal forms the AVL II’s camera lens, complete with a rotating focus ring. Markings on the inner ring mimic distance scales and correspond with measurements of time, but for timekeeping purposes, the red bezel pip will likely be more useful. The lens aperture affords a look at the 21-jewel Miyota 82S0 automatic within. You can get a view of its Geneva stripes and a skeletonized rotor through the display case back.

You will find the TACS logo between the bottom lugs, the movement’s beat rate (“BPH 21600”) is on the right side, there is a serial number plate on the left side, and room for your own engraving too.

The 24mm Rustic Brown strap is a thick slice of lovely Horween leather that shows a pronounced pull-up effect. It features quick release pins and a signed 22mm buckle. Its brushed and engraved stainless keeper is striking, although it makes me worry about which piece of furniture I might inadvertently scratch.

The TACS AVL II sells for $440 but if you use discount code “TimeBumVip” by June 30, you can get 30% off the new Rustic Brown AVL II or 20% off the old Vintage Brown AVL II, and 12.5% off any of the AVL II strap.

For more information or to place your order, visit the TACS webstore. ⬩

The Time Bum is always looking for a few good straps, so when BluShark offered to let me have a couple in exchange for a review, I couldn't say no. I’ve reviewed BluShark’s wares before and liked them, although, at that time, the company’s offerings were all variations on nylon pass-through straps. Nowadays, BluShark has far more variety, including canvas, Cordura, silicone, and nylon two-piece straps in addition to their many NATO-style items.

For this review, I tried a bit from each category: an Olive Cordura, a Juliet Blue silicone rally, and one of their newer pass-throughs, the AlphaShark Slim in Malbec Red. All three are only available in 20 or 22mm widths. Those seeking larger or smaller sizes will need to browse BluShark’s other collections.

AlphaShark Slim

Of the three, the $32 AlphaShark Slim is probably the strap you would most likely associate with BluShark. It is a traditional NATO-style pass-through design in a soft seatbelt weave with stainless steel keepers. Like all BluShark straps, the construction is top-notch. The collection uses BluShark’s premium hardware that may be brushed, polished (like the sample), or with certain colors, PVD black. Its stainless steel buckle is engraved and drilled for easier spring bar removal.

What really sets this strap apart is its 1.2mm thickness. NATOs have their uses, but I have found many to be bulky, especially if I need to tuck in the excess tail, as is often necessary on my smallish 6.75” wrist, and was the case here as well given the Slim’s 280mm length. The AlphaShark Slim goes far to alleviate this problem and offers the additional advantage of being thin enough to slip into those watches with tight gaps between the case and spring bars.

BluShark Straps AlphaShark Slim Malbex Manchester Watch Works

I loved the smooth texture and vibrant red color and appreciated the way the fabric bent flat against itself when stuffed back through the keeper. It looked particularly fetching on my Manchester Watch Works Vergennes. I’d like to see this thin premium seat belt weave used on even lower profile designs, like a conventional two-piece or a single strip Army style with a fabric keeper.

Cordura

The $26 Cordura strap is a two-piece design in 20 or 22mm widths and a standard 115/75mm length that should accommodate most wrists. It is fully stitched, lightly padded, leather-backed, and tapered, making it the most tailored of the lot. Quick release pins are a useful touch.

The fabric looks more casual than a similarly styled leather strap would, but a low profile and tight construction go far to dress it up. BluShark does not list the buckle as “premium” but the signed, drilled, square frame unit appears to be just as nicely finished as those on the other straps.

I tried the Cordura on my Collins Hyperion, replacing the rugged and thick stock leather strap. The svelte 3.5mm thick BluShark gave the watch a whole new look, trimming it down so it could fit neatly under a shirt cuff. I also liked the way fabric’s sheen complemented the Hyperion’s glossy carbon fiber dial.

Silicone Rally

BluShark’s $26 Silicone Rally strap is the biggest departure from their norm, both in terms of material and style. It is also one of the most complex. Two-layer construction allows a contrasting color to show through the upper layer’s perforations. There is a great deal of sculpting here; the lug ends curve down to better hug your wrist, a raised center section on the top adds even more dimension to the already layered design, and channels on the bottom keep the stitching off your skin. It tapers to meet its signed and brushed premium buckle. Quick release pins are standard.

They offer 20 or 22mm widths and a number of colors. I chose the fancifully named Juliet Blue, which looked fabulous on my trippy Deep Blue Diver 1000 Abalone dial. At 130/85mm, the strap is on the longer side, but not so much that ended up with an unruly tail. I found the soft silicone to be delightfully comfortable, especially when wet, and it while it did attract its share of fuzz, it seemed less of a lint magnet than other similar straps I’ve owned.

I thoroughly enjoyed all three straps. They are not the least expensive straps out there but BluShark’s high standards for quality materials and manufacture were apparent in all of them, and the prices get far more appealing when you take advantage of their volume discounts and free shipping offers. To browse more and order your own, visit BluSharkStraps.com. ⬩

Just last week, I scored a BOLDR Voyager Macau from a private seller on Watchuseek. I reviewed a different version of the Voyager (the brown Caspian) some time ago and liked it, but to be honest, I didn’t know the Macau limited edition existed. I loved the green sunray sandwich dial, brass case, and embossed bezel. The fact that it was new in box with its protective film still in place, and considerably cheaper than new didn’t hurt either. In three days, it was mine.

BOLDR Supply Company created the limited edition for Bi-Timepieces of Macau. Only 50 were made. I’ve got number 4, as indicated by the engraving between the bottom lugs.

The Voyager’s brass case measures 42mm wide, 48mm long, and 13.5mm thick not including its AR-coated, double-domed K1 crystal. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the watch appeared somewhat smaller on my 6.75” wrist than the brown bezel Caspian, likely as a result of the Macau’s body color bezel, which focuses more attention on the dial.

Indeed, that bezel is one of my favorite features. Its raised index looks great right out of the box but I’m really looking forward to watching a patina develop, particularly in the recesses around the raised numbers.

Like the Caspian model I had reviewed earlier, this Voyager has a brushed case, accented by a soft-edged bevel running from lug to lug. Out back you will find a stainless steel screw down caseback decorated with Macau's skyline. Behind that cover, beats the ubiquitous 24 jewel, 21.6 bph Seiko NH35a automatic.

Water resistance is 200m, aided in no small part by the dual-lock screw-down crown. It looks like a smaller version of the BOLDR Odyssey’s crown, and that is a very good thing indeed as its broad peaks make it a joy to look at and to operate. The Macau’s is set apart by a red gasket in the recess bisecting the head - a color accent that is repeated on the paddle tip of the second hand and the “Limited Edition” text.

The Macau’s green sunray sandwich dial is a rich olive green that complements the warm gold tones of the case, which are repeated in the brass hands, the printed index and text, and the Old Radium SuperLuminova. I like that BOLDR resisted the urge to use a Panerai-style typeface for the cut aways, opting instead for more stylized numbers, of which the 6 and 9 echo the shape of BOLDR’s logo.

The Voyager Macau ships with two 20mm straps: a nylon NATO, and a rubber tropic. The tropic is perfectly nice and fits the Macau’s retro dive style, but the basic black does little for the watch. On the other hand, I do like the signed 18mm brass buckle and will certainly use that when I swap the Macau onto some leather.

The NATO is heavyweight olive nylon with brass hardware, signed on the lower strap loop. It matches the watch perfectly. It is slightly shorter than most NATOs I have encountered, measuring 10.5” (about 266mm), so I did not have to tuck any excess tail back through the keeper. It is still a heavier look than most two-piece straps, but that does keep the bulk under control.

Really, I couldn’t be happier with this purchase. The Macau is my favorite of all the Voyager variations. Like it’s stablemates, the Macau exudes vintage charm while its green, gold, and red color scheme set it apart with a unique, pleasantly mellow look.

You can still purchase a new BOLDR Voyager Macau at Bi-Timepieces for $1980 HKD (about $252 USD), 30% off regular price. For more information or to buy one of the last remaining watches, visit BiTimepieces.com. ⬩

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BOLDR Voyager Macau