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Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958

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Let me be frank. I wasn’t extremely excited about this review. I had rolled my eyes at Rossling and the minimalist design that seems to be everywhere now. The Regatta 1959 seemed like just another watch in a sea of identical watches. But I’ll admit it: I liked this watch a lot more than I expected. It’s not without its flaws, and it won’t stand up to the best microbrands out there but it delivers a sleek, affordable option that’s perfect for the summer months. And it beats a Daniel Wellington or an MVMT any day of the week. 

Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958

The Regatta 1959 Chronograph is a cleanly designed watch that comes in a straight-lugged 40mm stainless steel case. The narrow bezel means it looks more like 42mm, at least, so be ready for some unexpected wrist presence with this one. However, while it appears larger than its actual size, it remains extremely lightweight and thin — only 10mm, meaning it’s welcome under even the dressiest of shirt cuffs. The straight lugs are not going to win any design prizes, but they are drilled, which is a very nice touch, and at 20mm, strap swaps are a cinch. The chronograph pushers are pump-style and the standard grooved crown carries a nice blue ‘R’. The sapphire crystal has a gentle dome with AR coating that keeps the thickness down while still maintaining a consistent design language of utter simplicity that continues throughout the watch. 

Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958

The back is graced with a wave motif that complements the ‘Regatta’ name, as well as obligatory branding and depth rating (50m for this—you’ll be fine if you want to shower with it, though not much more. Of course, then you’d have to ask yourself why you shower with a watch on…). The watch sat easily on my 7-inch wrist, and there were no issues with the crown digging in. And the wearability and comfort are only increased by how lightweight the watch is (50g, compared to my Omega Seamaster which clocks in at a wrist-snapping, shoulder-dislocating 150g).  

Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958 case back

Diving beneath the crystal, the dial is the very epitome of simplicity. A vertically-oriented bi-compax chrono layout has the running seconds at 6 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 12. The hands of the subdials, as well as the chrono seconds hand, are all blued, which is a subtle accent against the stark white of the dial. The hour and minute hands are both polished steel, with slivers of Superluminova applied, though whoever did the applying must’ve been stingy, as there’s minimal visibility in the dark, even after considerable exposure to direct sunlight. 

Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958

Dial text and markings are done in a very Bauhaus sans serif font. In my opinion, the font and printed markers are all a bit small. They occupy plenty of space, but their slenderness makes you squint and refocus every time you want to get a close reading, especially when using the chrono. Considering this, it seems odd to have put tiny numbers for just the hours around the periphery. They certainly aren’t helping anyone tell the time at a glance, so it would have made more sense to make this a chrono track of some kind. Let us not dwell on the no-frills, cut-out date window that sits like an island at 3 o’clock; it is there. One other note: on the watch I received, I noticed that the chrono seconds hand was slightly loose; when in resting position, it would list to the left of zero if tilted. I can’t say, though, whether this is a regular problem, or something particular to the review piece I received. My duty to warn has been thusly discharged. 

Powering the Regatta chrono is an unjeweled quartz Miyota OS11. There’s little to be said, but this is not the bottom of the bin, but it’s nowhere near the top, either. It runs about +/-20 seconds per month, which is typical for most quartz movements. No complaints here. 

Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958

I must rave about the strap. I’ll let you judge whether it’s good or bad that the strap is the highlight, but it is what it is. The handmade black leather strap has quick-release spring bars, a sturdy tang clasp, and a red backing. It is extremely comfortable and supple, with no break-in required. Almost immediately, I found myself wearing it on several other watches. As for the swappability of straps on the Regatta, the simplicity lends itself to diversity. As you can see from the pictures, I had this on a number of straps, from Perlon to suede to silicone. They all worked well and had no effect on the comfort of the watch; I suppose it’s one of the advantages of a simple white watch. When ordered at retail, the watch is also supposed to come with a two-piece canvas strap, though my review piece did not, so I can’t speak directly to its quality; if the leather is an indicator, then it’s safe to assume the canvas is splendid.  Same goes, I assume, for the optional suede bands. 

Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958 roll

Rossling & Co. started out in 2013 with a Kickstarter campaign that raised nearly 10x its goal from almost 1300 backers. That is to say, they were popular then, and they are clearly still popular. I can’t say they’ve come a long way—they still stick to the same minimalist design wave that propelled that first campaign—but they’re no longer reliant on crowdfunding, and they are producing decent watches, not abhorrent trash like many of the brands out today in their price point. Their Regatta 1959 is no exception. A limited edition of 300 pieces across all 6 models, it will serve you well this summer, especially as the heat continues its assault on the world. With its clean looks, lightweight case, and strap versatility, it’s a go anywhere, do anything, watch. While it certainly has its drawbacks with its poor lume and middling dial design, the overall goal of a simple and wearable watch has been achieved. It comes with a 3-watch watch roll that’s just as nice as the strap, and at $299 you can certainly do worse. 

For more information or to order your own, visit rosslingco.com. 

Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958 wrist shot

Rossling & Co. Regatta 1958 wrist shot


Antoine Clérmont Saint Urbain and Saint Martin

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This sponsored post is a paid advertisement. All content was provided by the brand. 

Antoine Clérmont Saint Urbain and Saint Martin

The All Saints Collection is the epitome of sports luxury. The collection features two models: THE SAINT URBAIN & SAINT MARTIN, the first creations from Antoine Clérmont. These ultra-sleek timepieces are made using a 41mm Stainless Steel case with matching bracelet, Sapphire Crystal and have a water resistance of 10ATM/100M. Powered by either a Swiss made automatic or quartz chronograph movements, these watches will be as accurate as they are beautiful.

The Saint Urbain is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 Swiss made Automatic movement. The movement beats at 28,800BPH and has a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch features dauphine minute, hour hands and a smooth sweeping second hand plus date window. The accuracy of the SW200 is rated at -20/+20 seconds per day. 

Antoine Clérmont Saint Urbain black

The Saint Martin is powered by a Ronda Calibre 3520.D Swiss made Quartz-Chronograph movement. This is a 4-Jewel Quartz that has a stopwatch function, date and boasts a battery life of 4+ years. The accuracy of the 3520.D is rated at -10/+20 seconds a month. The Saint Martin also features a multi-colored lume setup to help you read the time in low light conditions.

Antoine Clérmont Saint Martin white

Antoine Clérmont Saint Martin lume

With 6 models to choose from, you will have no problems matching the Saint Urbain or Saint Martin to any style.


Antoine Clérmont Saint Urbain black
Antoine Clérmont Saint Urbain blue
Antoine Clérmont Saint Martin black
Antoine Clérmont Saint Martin white
Antoine Clérmont Saint Martin blue
Antoine Clérmont Saint Martin blue gold

Available for Pre-order now through Kickstarter, the Saint Martin is available starting at $169 USD, while the Saint Urbain starts at $299.

Hurry now to the campaign to grab the early bird discounts: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/acwatches/the-all-saints-collection-luxury-swiss-movement-watches?ref=3mwk6e.  ⬩

Presenting: DISTRICT TIME 2019!

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Save The Date!

Your humble Time Bum and Bill from McDowell Time are proud to announce our fourth annual watch event, District Time Sponsored by Dino Zei Watches. Join us October 12-13, 2019 at the District Architecture Center, 427 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC. We will be open to the public from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM both days.

Our lead sponsor, Dino Zei Watches, is an Italian boutique brand that produces its watches in Florence and has roots in both Panerai and Anonimo. In the Dino Zei room at District Time, you can explore their collection and purchase one of these exclusive timepieces for yourself.

District Time has come a long way since our very first show in the back of a restaurant. Now we have a fabulous venue in downtown DC, loads of vendors, and some new collaborations to make this our best show ever. If you want to learn more about how and why we do this, read the interview Bill and I did with AboutTime here, and see my interview with Doc's House Calls on Watch With Us Media here. But in the meantime, read on...

Show Participants

A watch show is nothing without watches, so we are bringing as much variety as we can. This list is still growing, but as of today, the following watches and vendors will be represented at the show. 
  • About Time Magazine - Media Partner
  • Ardor & Forge
  • Art Watch Frame
  • Aquadive
  • Bausele
  • BOLDR
  • Caliper
  • Collins
  • DC Vintage Watches
  • Dino Zei Watches
  • EMG
  • Fine Time Solutions will show their American made movements and the watches that use them including:
    • Bertucci
    • Brillier
    • Minuteman
  • Gavox
  • Hemel
  • Isofrane
  • McDowell Time
  • Mirus
  • Nodus
  • NTH
  • Ocean Crawler
  • Origin
  • Sartory-Billard
  • Minase
  • Raketa
  • Traska
  • Tsao Baltimore
  • Vario
  • Ventus
  • Visitor
  • Watcha - Official Photographer
  • Watch Gauge will bring a selection of watches from: 
    • Balticus
    • Casio G-Shock
    • DiRenzo
    • Martenero
    • Straton 
  • Zelos
    Check back, because we will add even more as we get closer to the date.

    District Time 2018

    Remember, most of the watches at the show are otherwise only available online, so take advantage of this a rare opportunity check them out in person, meet the brand owners and designers, shop the amazing selection, and enter to win one of our awesome giveaways. As always, the show is free and open to the public but we hope you also take advantage of the other opportunities that make up our #DCWatchWeek.

    Watchmaking 101-103

    The Horological Society of New York will bring their award-winning, 4-hour watchmaking class to the event. This hands-on class will teach you the inner workings of a mechanical movement. It is a must for anyone who loves watches. There are two time slots on Saturday and one on Sunday so whichever you choose, there will still be plenty of time to enjoy the show too. The class costs $500 and seats are limited so reserve your place now! Sign up here.

    HSNY McDowell

    Microbrand University

    Aspiring watch brand owners will want to check out Microbrand University on October 10 and 11. In the seminar, Chris Vail of NTH Watches, John Tooher of Head Room, John Keil of Watch Gauge, and Josh Irons of River Avenue Digital will share their tips for effective business strategy, branding, and marketing in the particular niche of microbrand watches. The two-day seminar is $2000, but you can get a $500 discount if you sign up by July 9, 2019. For more information and registration visit MicrobrandU.com.

    Stay the Night!

    Finally, if you are traveling from out of the area, be sure to take advantage of our $199/night group rate at the nearby Fairfield Inn, offered through Janis Trading Company. You can book your room here.

    We can’t wait to see you there! ⬩


    Five Watch Bands to Accent Your Timepiece

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    Today's Guest Bum is Tess DiNapoli, an artist, freelance writer, and content strategist. who enjoys covering the fashion industry, collaborating with industry insiders and designers, getting insight on the latest trends.

    Your luxury timepiece is already timeless, but we all need a little variety to keep life (and our personal wardrobes) interesting. Luckily for you, a new band to accent your timepiece can be just the accessory you need to update your look, even if just for the evening. Watch bands and replacement straps come in a variety of materials, colors, and textures, and are generally extremely easy to change out. There’s something out there for everyone. Here, we’ll cover some of our favorite watch bands to help get you started in elevating your aesthetic. 


    Genuine Stingray

    A high-quality watch strap made from genuine stingray can take your look to new heights. Genuine stingray bands add understated natural texture to any modern timepiece. A bonus byproduct of stingrays that are harvested for food, the beautiful skin from the spine of a stingray has been found to be extremely durable and environmentally-friendly. The calcium nodules or “pearls” a stingray uses to deter predators in the wild make for beautiful and interesting textural elements in its leather. Additionally, due to the nature of genuine stingray leather, you can be assured that each watchband is unique with its own signature texture meaning that no one else has your exact look. Heighten your sense of danger and intrigue every time you wear your timepiece with a genuine stingray leather band. 

    Genuine Crocodile

    Made from the soft skin of the bellies and sides of baby crocodiles, crocodile skin offers beautiful patterns that can elevate your style in an instant. This luxurious material has been utilized for decades to create high-end, durable pieces that stand the test of time. Crocodile leather is known for its fairly uniform, symmetrical tile patterns, and a less pronounced umbilical scar pattern as seen in alligator skin. Easy-to-clean and care for, crocodile skin comes in many different colors and stitch patterns and is a great addition to any watch band collection. 

    Genuine Alligator

    Also a member of the crocodilian family, genuine alligator skin is another excellent option for your next watch band. The skin from these crocodilians are also known to age well and to be highly durable. While alligators and crocodiles belong to the same reptilian order, alligator skin is usually considered more luxurious than crocodile skin due to its more interesting patterns and suppleness. A genuine alligator skin watch band instantly adds refinement and sophistication to any ensemble.


    Fine Italian Leather

    Nothing beats the look and feel of a classic, fine Italian leather watch band. Fine Italian leather transitions seamlessly from day to evening with a simple elegance that complements any look. With options like suede and a variety of stitching styles, fine Italian leather is a “go to” selection for the discerning watch connoisseur. When your wardrobe needs a classic staple, it’s hard to go wrong with a fine Italian leather band.

    Military-Style Nylon

    The simple, minimalist nature of military-style nylon has captured the attention of style icons for decades. But don’t worry: you don’t need to fret about being stuck with the classic olive green. Military-style nylon bands are available in multiple colors, patterns, and buckles to match all tastes and needs. With the ability to dress up and dress down this band, you’ll find its versatility a great addition to your wardrobe. 

    Update Your Watch Band

    Whether for a special occasion or simply to update your everyday style, adding a high-quality watch band to your wardrobe can provide instant sophistication and refinement to your look. ⬩

    Nove Trident

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    I’ll just start with this: the Nove Trident is a  6.8mm thick, 200m dive watch. That alone piqued my interest, but the exposed ratcheting system on the bezel clinched it. Clearly, Nove set out to create something truly novel. I needed to find out if it delivered. The brand let me try this steel, black, and gold version for a couple of weeks to find out. 

    Nove Trident

    When I opened the generously padded, zippered box, I was struck by its unfamiliar shape. The watch is roughly hexagonal and 46mm wide with integrated lugs that keep the length to 48.8mm. It fits well within the confines of my 6.75” wrist, but the proportions exaggerate its pancake profile. Needless to say, it slips right under your shirt cuff and does not hurt for wrist presence in the process.

    Nove Trident

    You need to look carefully in order to appreciate it, but there are some great details in the case design like the rounded ends on the integrated drilled lugs, and the polished chamfer on the upper edges and crown guards of the otherwise brushed case. 

    Nove Trident profile

    These elements are nearly lost under the oversized 47.5mm bezel, which is an impressive piece in its own right. In order to maintain the Trident’s low profile, they pared it down to the barest elements. You have a matte blasted ring with polished and embossed markers instead of an insert, and an exposed ratcheting mechanism designed just for this application. Three springs brake the bezel’s angled teeth, providing smooth action, no back play, a truly attention-grabbing appearance. The teeth will prompt a double take as they look like the grips you might normally see on the outside of a bezel. On the Trident, a series of bumps at every other mark serves this function quite well. While you can order your Trident in several different color combinations, I prefer the ones that highlight the springs with a contrasting color. When you have a design feature like this, you might as well call attention to it it. 

    Nove Trident

    Cool as it may be, I did have a gripe or two. First, while the raised markers do look good, there is no lume on this bezel. Just a spot at 12 (or “00” in this case) would have improved its utility. Second, I find it hard to believe that the exposed channel between the teeth and springs will stay clean. Even in my limited time with the watch, I managed to collect a coat of dust. I’m quite sure that dirt, debris, and sand if you use it as a dive watch, will inevitably take residence and require a good cleaning out. 

    The Trident’s crown is another eye-catcher. It is a good size, artfully facetted, and signed. On this model, it is finished in a fetching rose gold to match the springs, dial markers, and bracelet screws. As you would expect on a 200m dive watch, it screws down. The fact that it is larger than the case is thick (not including the bezel) makes it exceptionally easy to use. 

    Nove Trident

    On the flip side, you will find a case back secured with four screws. It is polished and engraved with a matte center, but not particularly decorated. Behind it lurks one of the Trident’s secrets to its svelte figure: a Swiss made Ronda 1062 Slimtech. Come on now, you didn’t think they could squeeze an automatic in here, did you? Besides, as I have said before when you consider the accuracy and durability one wants in a tool watch, quartz really does make a lot more sense than mechanical.

    Nove Trident case back

    You may not notice the movement right away as Nove opted to forgo a second hand. Two pilot-style swords point to the applied, dome-shaped hour markers on the black dial. The hands carry the only lume on the watch. A notched ring just beyond the flat, AR-coated sapphire crystal finishes it off. The sparse dial is certainly attractive, and the applied markers, text, and logo lend a welcome touch of dimension, but the absence of a second hand or minute track makes it seem like even less of a tool watch. 

    The Trident’s bracelet with its thin, sculpted links and embossed butterfly deployant clasp is a fine match for the head, and a good thing too, as it meets the lugs in an 11mm gap, making it all but impossible to swap it for anything else. The links fasten with split pins. 

    Nove Trident clasp

    All around, I enjoyed the Nove Trident. It’s flat profile and open ratchet system sets it apart from the often cookie-cutter crowd of dive watches, yet I hesitate to classify it as such. There are too many design choices that steer the watch away from the practical utility a proper diving tool should offer: no second hand, no bezel pip, no minute track, tiny markers, limited lume, and even its signature bezel mechanism make it more of a dive-style watch in spite of its 200m rating.

    Perhaps that is the point. The Nove Trident won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but it is nothing like your average dive watch, indeed, the very things that make it unique, like its vanishingly thin case, are best appreciated on dry land. The fact that it can survive harrowing depths merely icing on the cake. 

    If you are looking for the ultimate “un-dive watch” head over to Nove.com where the steel and gold model shown here is $320 USD, and the attractive blue PVD model is on sale for just $310. ⬩

    Nove Trident

    The Ultimate 4th of July Watch

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    Today's Guest Bum is Nathaniel DeNicola, a doctor and watch enthusiast in Washington, D.C.

    The Ultimate 4th of July Watch

    An American-made watch paying tribute to American horology that can track time from sea to shining sea, in a waterproof case beautifully adorned in non-obnoxious red, white, and blue.

    July 4, 2019

    Here we are smack in the middle of summer when many watch lovers rightfully rock divers and subs in all shades of stunning azure. Some may mix summer watches and vacation watches with a carefree or adventurous style. Just ask John Mayer. However, there is at least one day of summer that might call for a little more specialization than simply a fun, pool-worthy watch. Whether you honor America’s birth, relate to the fight for independence, or simply enjoy fireworks, the 4th of July just may deserve a few unique features for your celebration apparel. A special watch for a special day.

    So what exactly do I mean by a 4th of July watch?

    Google “4th of July watch” and you’ll find lists of watches that basically sport any combination of red, white, and blue. Makes sense. A few brands have gone star-spangled awesome and inserted the American flag pattern wherever it would fit -- on the dial, on the bezel, forced into odd strap pairings.

    Sure these check off the most basic “red, white, and blue” test, but does that really capture the essence of the American Independence Day holiday?

    Ok, then let’s turn to American watches for a minute. Is that enough by itself? Would just any American watch do, or do we need to factor in the summer aspect? With days spent splashing in the pool and evenings lounging on Adirondack chairs on a beachfront or lakefront dock is there an important functionality to a 4th of July watch?

    More to it than you thought, perhaps.

    To recap what we have so far: it probably should look somewhat red, white, and blue; it might be American; and, it could withstand an afternoon in the pool or evening on the water. Do any watches check all the boxes? Are any criteria more important than others?

    Let’s dive into it.

    I will take the liberty (yes that pun was unavoidable) to say that first and foremost a 4th of July watch should serve a patriotic function. It should be American. For all of the international attention this holiday can receive -- and cheers to any occasion that can spread joy globally --
    4th of July clearly has a specific national origin. If ever there were an occasion to seek out a watch made in the United States this is it.

    Vintage American

    Now you might say, ok, great. How many American watches can there be? A handful? Let’s pick one and we’re on our way...

    Well, that might have been true in the early 1950’s when US watch companies were fresh off their role in a WWII victory but fresh out of luck against Switzerland’s wartime monopoly of the commercial market. Back then just a few brands like Hamilton, Elgin, Bulova, and Gruen were clinging onto US factories while Swiss rivals were circling ready to snatch them up and move them overseas.

    But in the first golden era of American watchmaking -- roughly bookended by the two World Wars -- there were a plethora of US watch companies. Nearly every major city with railway service at the end of the 1900’s produced a pocket watch to ensure precision time. They had to. Remember those old math problems “if a train leaving New York at 12:30p traveling 90 miles per hour and train leaving Chicago...” These were real-world problems to solve that were highly dependent on accurate time-keeping.

    My first American watch: 1896 Elgin railway grade pocket watch, a wedding gift from my wife Kristie.  Look at what she started…
    You had Waltham in New England, Hamilton in Lancaster, PA, and South Bend, of course, in South Bend, IN. Several cities had multiple: Elgin, Illinois, and Burlington all out of Chicago for example. Many of these made the transition to the wrist, following the popularization of the wristwatch after WWI. By the Art Deco glory days of the 1930’s American watch companies were producing world-class products at a record pace -- thanks in part to their innovations like machine-produced interchangeable parts that allowed mass production.

    1920’s Art Deco Illinois Watch Company
    If you stare closely at this 1920’s Art Deco Illinois Watch Company you’ll find the faint but once-prominent pinstripes and you can almost hear someone whistling “Yankee-doodle Dandy.”


    So if we include the vintage American watch supply generated over, say, a 40 year period from 1910 - 1950 we have thousands of options. Before we go any further anyone may pick one of these vintage American watches and declare “this is my 4th of July watch!” and get absolutely no argument here. These are fine exemplars of proud US history and make a worthy watch for a worthy occasion. Many of these would include American military watches -- and while 4th of July mostly celebrates a political turning point memorialized in revered written documents -- there are clear military implications to the political revolution. Fine choices all around receiving nothing but admiration.


    Elgin Black Star Dial “Kitchener”
    WWI trench watch: Elgin Black Star Dial “Kitchener” in honor of Lord Earl Kitchener. The Kitchener is the rarest of the three Black Star models also including the Pershing and Foch. A star-covered dial certainly seems appropriate for the occasion.

    For a bit more “recent” vintage watch selection there are also a host of bicentennial watches produced in 1976 that overflow with red, white, and blue, and a bit of whimsy. They feature charming rotating “floating discs” with horse-riding patriots making laps around the dial, liberty bells galore, and an occasional dollar coin Lady Liberty dial. All worthy of appreciation, albeit produced in Switzerland or China.

    Bicentennial novelty watch
    If you ignore the “Swiss MOVT Hong Kong Dial” signature these bicentennial watches otherwise scream “USA! USA!”
    However, there is a slight problem with vintage watches when it comes to wearability. If you spend the 4th partaking in some combination of BBQ, swimming, and generally being active outdoors, a nearly 100 year-old watch might not be the ideal choice. Laps in the pool pose a particular problem.

    Seals Watch Company Model A
    California-based Seals Watch Company Model A up to the task of grilling, kayaking, and chilling on the dock (notice those Adirondack chairs on the Potomac)
    Modern American

    Ok, so let’s venture into the second era of American watchmaking. The modern era. The one we are living in right now. At this point you’re thinking this discussion must really be near an end. How many of those can there be? Timex, Apple, umm... I think I’ve heard of Shinola?

    Well, there are currently 5 modern American watch companies. The vast majority are limited-production, individually-inspected, operated by devoted single-person shops or small company models. The popular term is microbrand but for purposes of this article we’ll say “Independent.”

    So yes there are 5 companies... in Brooklyn. A handful more in other parts of New York City. Several in New Jersey. Three in Chicago. At least 10 in California. Others in Pittsburgh, Cleveland, St.Louis, Memphis. If you tally them up you’d find somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 modern, independent American watch companies on this “American list 2.0.”

    Where do you even begin?

    Origin Railway Edition
    Ok they’re not ALL divers: A) Origin Watch Company from Memphis, TN offers this Railway Edition which magnificently captures the elegance and precision of late 20th century American watches
    Weiss Field Watch
    B) Weiss Watch Company from Los Angeles, CA by master watchmaker Cameron Weiss delivers this field watch made nearly exclusively with American manufactured parts (photo credit: my brother Matthew who somehow captured palm trees in front of him and in the dial reflection!)
    Oak & Oscar Batch 1 panda
    C) Oak & Oscar out of Chicago, IL with the rare Batch No. 1 white dial panda! [photo credit Oak & Oscar Watch Company]
    Summertime and the living’s easy

    Since the preference for new, independent American watches is based on wearability on the 4th, this shift should focus on watches that are at least water-resistant. The only problem is that it really doesn’t narrow it down much (ok, they’re not ALL divers). In an era when dive watches are undoubtedly the most popular first release for independent brands (let’s face it, they sell) and when screw-down crowns are nearly business standard even if the watch isn’t labeled “diver”, this is still basically a list of most modern American watches. A great list to be sure. But still a long one.

    Nodus Retrospect II
    Divers galore! A) Nodus from Los Angeles, CA relaunched the Retrospect II in several colors including the stunning Nebula Blue -- not officially a “diver” but up to the task (btw I need to switch up the suit/shirt more often)
    Monta Oceanking
    B) Monta from St. Louis, MO delivers Oceanking, one of the finest dive watches you’ll find in the US or the world (good enough for election day 2018, looking pretty patriotic)
    Lorier Neptune
    C) Lorier by way of Texas and now New York with their nostalgic Neptune diver, which in Bond-like fashion can go from the pool to the theater with ease (Kennedy Center in the background)
    So are we just back to red, white, and blue?!

    In short, no.

    Martenero Edgemere Reserve
    The Brooklyn-based Martenero Edgemere Reserve is American, water-resistant, and even red, white, and blue. We must be getting close!? [photo credit: Martenero Watch Company]
    American spirit

    The colorway is a nice bonus, but not the most critical factor. In fact, given the vast and accessible universe of watch straps in any color, striping, or pattern, I’ll argue that the red, white, and blue color scheme can be easily adapted to any watch. Plus, more importantly, the goal here is to find something deeper. To see if there’s a watch that has a relevant connection to American Independence, that you can also easily where on the 4th of July in all of its celebratory activity. A watch that (granted in a small but still meaningful way) connects us with a sense of American ingenuity, free-thinking spirit, and yes star-spangled pride.

    Now actually all of these watches do that. Truly. From the vintage watches honoring a cherished past to the modern watches marking an era of entrepreneurial resilience, each of these and so many more should be proudly featured in fireworks wrist shots.

    There’s a reason this preamble has featured so many American watches, and admittedly it’s a limited list. For instance, Ronald G. Murphy out of the American horology mecca Lancaster, PA has been turning out nearly-exclusively American made watches for over a decade, and watchmaker Cameron Weiss out of Los Angeles has more recently picked up that torch. Surely others are to follow.

    Let’s not forget, two of the most indelible tool-oriented horological innovations since the quartz boom of the 1970’s have been 1) the athletic timing watches pioneered by America’s Timex Ironman watch in the 1980’s, and 2) the smartwatch, utterly revolutionized by America’s Apple watch.

    Two recent American innovations: A) The original sports watch: Timex Ironman released 1986 and in very 1980’s colors; and...
    B) A watch that needs no introduction: Apple Watch 1

    So the question here is: does one watch stand out just a little for this day and this moment? Is there one that brings it all together -- that puts an American story right there on your water bound wrist?

    Reaching new heights

    When you consider the centuries-old story of horology and the countless variations of time-tracking tools one thing becomes clear: hardly anything is new. New is impossible. New doesn’t exist. New, is really old. Someone or something has done it before and, at best, a “new” version of something really just improved upon a since-forgotten fad.

    So when something actually does break new ground that accomplishment should not be taken lightly. Furthermore, when one of these inventions has an undisputed origin, where no one doubts the originality and there’s no facsimile buried in murky mythology, the credit for innovation and free-thinking accomplishment gets a little extra credit.

    Let’s return to the early 1950’s.

    The US watchmaking industry may have been on the ropes but the economy at large was booming. Soaring in fact. One of the most shining examples was the US airline industry that was reaching new heights in every sense of the word.

    One such company, Pan American Airlines, was extending its global reach through transatlantic flights and for this, they needed an upgraded time-tracking tool for coordinating multiple time zones at once. It may seem mundane now, but this type of on-the-fly (yes, another unavoidable pun) international timezone tracking was simply not a necessity for most everyday activity prior to globalization.

    But it was now. 

    So in 1954 Pan American Airlines commissioned a watch that could simultaneously track dual time zones anywhere in the world. What resulted was the now-iconic GMT. 

    Rolex GMT-Master 6542
    Original black dial Rolex GMT-Master 6542 [photo credit: bobwatches.com] 

    Hidden in plain sight

    Now, without a doubt credit Rolex for the horological achievement. They took the charge from Pan Am and produced something no one had ever done, and they did it so well that virtually every endeavor since has modeled their creation. No small feat.

    But here’s the thing.

    It was a partnership. Rolex didn’t come up with idea, nor did Switzerland produce the industrial or economic mandate for such an invention. The necessity, drive, and conception of the GMT were born in the United States.

    And this has been the rub for so many American horological innovations -- from mass-produced interchangeable components that allowed European watchmaking to become a global industry, to American companies like Texas Instruments driving the quartz era, and numerous others -- that for a variety of reasons the principle American contributions to watchmaking often get lost
    to horological history in favor of its more dominant players. But if you look closely enough the American horological signatures are there, quite simply, hidden in plain sight.

    The Ultimate 4th of July Watch

    So if we take a second look at iconic watches from the vantage point of a more informed history -- a process often known as “Mark II” -- through an American watch company helpfully named MKII, we might shed light on some of these under-the-radar achievements.

    Enter the MKII Key West.

    MKII GMT Key West
    The MKII GMT calls to Pan America’s signature destination, Key West, while honoring their signature contribution to horology [photo credit: MKII Watches]

    This bench crafted watch honors the original Pan American contribution to the GMT both in name (Key West flights were a crucial stepping stone for Pan Am) and on the case back (airplane with contrails streaming); features high-fidelity recreation of the original GMT-master in a rare white dial which, paired with the Pepsi bezel, happens to be red, white, and blue; is waterproof to 200 meters; and here’s the kicker: is manufactured in Wayne, PA just outside Philadelphia.

    So there you have it. The ultimate 4th of July watch.

    An American made watch paying tribute to American horology that can track time from sea to shining sea, in a waterproof case beautifully adorned in non-obnoxious red, white, and blue. Born in Philadelphia. ⬩

    MKII GMT Key West case back

    Xeric Cypher Automatic

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    Xeric has never been a conservative watch brand. Right off the bat, their designs have been big, brash, and wildly unconventional. While it has been fun to watch them push the limits with watches like the asymmetric Soloscope and the upside-down movement of the Inverter, I had a hard time envisioning their watches on my wrist. At least, not until I saw the Cypher, a watch that marries Xeric’s avant-garde aesthetic and whimsical detailing with a sensibly sized and beautifully rendered case. They let me take this Cypher Automatic Tritium Silver Green Limited Edition for a spin and I came away duly impressed.

    Xeric Cypher Automatic Tritium Silver Green

    The Cypher’s stainless steel case is 42mm wide, 46.5mm long, and 13mm thick from the flat sapphire crystal up top, to its flat sapphire exhibition case back below. Water-resistance is 50m, which is fine for most daily wear but shy of what you might want for serious outdoor activities. This is just as well, because the Cypher is too fancy for a tool watch, although its size and frankly funky dial place it far from what I’d call a dress watch. Instead, I’d put in the elusive “smart casual” class.

    Xeric Cypher Automatic Tritium Silver Green wrist

    Before I get to the dial, I need to show some love to the Cypher’s case. It may not be the most eye-catching element of the watch, but it is a lovely, well-thought design in its own right. Viewed in profile, the barrel of the case appears as a polished bowl bisected by a trim, vertically brushed edge arcing from one slim lug to the other. The top is brushed north-south and accented with a polished bevel that continues right through the lugs’ clipped ends and is repeated inside their bombé twist. A gunmetal bezel is polished on top while its edge shows the same short stroke brushing as the case sides. Finally, the case back is gunmetal finished as well, but with sunray brushing. Nothing was ignored. The result is slim and elegant. 

    Xeric Cypher Automatic Tritium Silver Green side

    Xeric employs two different sandwich-style dial dials and two hands to display the time on the Cypher. The hands are broad, flat, filled with green Tritium, and positioned below the dial, so they show through the open sections in the dials above. The outermost ring is silver on this watch, with hours and minute markers cut through. The second dial is a gunmetal color and position slightly higher. It shows the minutes, but in a manner opposite that of the hours, with its material cut away from the numbers, leaving a nearly skeletonized disk that allows a glimpse of the movement within as well as the broad, wedge-shaped minute hand. This disk has its own perforated minute track and half a ring that reveals a small black seconds disc below it - also meticulously cut away - and marked by a green triangle indicator at its peak. There is no text save for the Xeric logo and brand name at the very center.

    Xeric Cypher Automatic Tritium Silver Green

    Remarkably, there is nothing unduly fussy about Cypher’s face. Under normal lighting conditions, there is sufficient contrast to see every marker and the lurid green hands are plainly visible. Granted, the seconds disk with its tiny cutaway markers is not nearly as obvious as a conventionally sweeping hand, but it does the trick. That said, at-a-glance accuracy does suffer a bit. You can get a bead on the seconds if you pay attention, and the hour is plain enough, but the minute hand is about five minutes wide. This makes for a good display as it passes under the dark numbers, but it makes reading the precise minute a bit of a guesstimate. While the perforated minute tracks look cool, they don’t have any indicators, which limits their utility. 

    As cool as the dial may look in the day, the real fun comes at night when the perpetual glow of the Tritium hands and the blue-white layer of SuperLuminova under the hour and seconds markers burst to life. It is crazy, glorious lume. 

    Xeric Cypher Automatic Tritium Silver Green lume

    Xeric took the cutaway theme and ran with it, employing it on the fabulously lacy crown as well as the web-like rotor of the Miyota 82S0 Automatic within. The 21 jewel, 21.6k bph, 8200 series movements don’t get the watch community’s love like the 9100 series does, but for this configuration, it makes more sense. The 82S0 is an open heart, allowing that peek inside under the small skeleton dial, and the 9100’s smoother beat rate would be lost on a seconds disk. 

    Xeric Cypher Automatic Tritium Silver Green case back

    It is nice to see a brand pull out all the stops when choosing a watch band. Xeric selected medium brown Horween leather for this 20mm strap and it is perfect. It is neatly finished, displays a pronounced pull-up effect when bent, and secures with a sculpted and signed buckle. If you really want to swap straps, quick release pins make it easy. 

    Xeric Cypher Automatic Tritium Silver Green strap

    The Cypher is a dazzling conversation piece patch that is still quite wearable and loaded with clever details. Xeric is taking preorders now for August delivery. The price is $500, but code CYPHERVIP drops it to a much more attractive $325. For more information or to place an order, visit Xeric.com. ⬩

    Vaer Automatic

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    Today, Vaer Watches launches their new Automatic Field watch. They let me take a look at a prototype this past weekend, along with a small sampling of their straps. So far, this Venice, California-based brand has produced several successful quartz models. This is their first foray into mechanical movements, and I must say, I like what I see.

    Vaer Automatic White Design
    Like their previous offerings, the new Automatic has a domed sapphire crystal, 100m depth rating, and a clean, classic dial in a sensibly-sized 40mm stainless steel case. However, where the previous Vaers used Swiss Ronda quartz movements, the Automatic will come with the buyer's choice of a Miyota 9015, ETA 2824, or ETA 2895. Regular readers will likely have already memorized the 9015's and 2824's basic specs (24 jewels, hacking, hand-winding, 28.8k bph, 42-hour power reserve). The 2895, on the other hand, is less common in the microbrand world. While similar in design to the 2824, it has 27 jewels, a small seconds indicator, and is a full millimeter thinner. All movements will be visible through the Vaer's exhibition case back.

    Vaer Automatic White Design case back

    The ETA models will, predictably, be more expensive, but the differences don't stop there. If you choose the Swiss movement, your watch will be Swiss made. The Japanese movement watches will be assembled in America like the rest of the Vaer line. Both Miyota and ETA 2824 models are available in the Black Heritage Dial, White or Navy Design Dial, or Black Field Dial. The ETA 2895 is only available in the Black "Dirty Dozen" dial resembling that of a WW2 Ministry of Defense watch. 

    Vaer Automatic White Design

    Regardless of the dial, the Automatics feature a simple, yet beautifully designed case. It measures 40mm wide, 48mm long, and 10mm thick including the crystal. A hint of polish on the outer edges of the lugs and bezel break up the otherwise brushed surface. Slim, tapered lugs, slightly bowed case sides, and a brushed, fixed bezel all serve to visually shrink the watch. When I first removed it from the box, I would have sworn it was 38 or 39mm. Once I strapped it on, it was clear that it was indeed a full 40mm but those design elements give it a much lighter look. Vaer tells me the final version will have a slightly larger screw-down crown (7x3mm instead of 6x3mm) and I expect that will go even further to enhance the watch's vintage-style proportions.  Even as-is, the watch looked perfect on my 6.75" wrist.

    Vaer Automatic White Design

    Of all the dial variants, I like the White Design version best. It is a fetching combination of white, pale blue-green, and red-orange with navy outlines, index, and text. It's clear that someone spent some time perusing the Pantone deck when designing this one. Even the date wheel get a subtle touch of silver. (No-date versions are available as well.) The polished syringe hands maintain the vintage vibe, as does the tiny hollow diamond tip of the orange second hand. I love everything about this dial. Its light, sophisticated color palette, and Nomos-esque layout give it an easygoing grace that reminds me of faded blue jeans, Nantucket Reds, and seersucker suits. 

    Vaer Automatic White Design blue NATO

    The lume is lovely as well. The folks at Vaer tell me it is still a work in progress as the markers fade quickly, but boy, that initial burst is something else! Regardless, the BGW9 hands are bright enough on their own. 

    Vaer Automatic White Design lume

    Final strap choices have not been hammered out, so they sent me a selection of 20mm straps currently available in the Vaer web store. The nylon NATOs ($15) are well constructed and make perfect sense on this field watch (I thought the beige was particularly fetching) but the best of the bunch was their handmade Horween leather ($65). I'm a sucker for that rich British Tan color and weathered pull-up effect. Quick-release pins and a signed buckle top it off. 

    Vaer Automatic White Design leather

    Everything about the Vaer Automatic clicks for me. The size, case details, and color scheme are just delightful. I also like the price. Early Birds on Kickstarter can grab an American Assembled Miyota model for $299 ($449 retail), a Swiss Made ETA 2825 for $449 ($599 retail), or the ETA 2895 Dirty Dozen for $599 ($849 retail). All represent a good value, but for me, the pick of the litter is the white dial, 9015 powered model I just reviewed. I mean - just look at it! It's frickin' beautiful. Also, I love a bargain, respect the Miyota, and am not as enamored with the Swiss as many of my fellow watch nerds. But the beauty of this launch is that there is a little something for everyone. 

    For more information or to place an order, visit VaerWatches.com and the Vaer Automatic Kickstarter Page. ⬩

    Vaer Automatic White Design  nato
    Vaer Automatic White Design


    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent

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     Review and photos by Mike Razak.

    I first met Neil Carpenter—industrial designer, co-proprietor of sister businesses The Chelsea Watch Shop and The Brooklyn Watch Shop, and founder of the eponymous Carpenter Watches—at the District Time Show two years ago. He had come down from his home in Brooklyn to show off his Brooklyn Field watch (there are 29 iterations, only four of which have not sold out). But he had also brought another piece: bronze, classic vintage design, understated, elegant, gorgeous. I fell hard for the prototype of the Brooklyn Gent. I wanted one of my own, but details were limited; Neil wasn’t sure when the watch would be ready for production. Well, two years on and I’m lucky enough to review the entire Brooklyn Gent line. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent black silver

    The Brooklyn Gent follows the Brooklyn Field Watch, a vintage influenced field watch that suggests affluence and good taste, while also being accessible in its design (and price point). The Brooklyn Gent echoes this approach, providing a vintage-inspired dress watch with a modern soul at a decidedly reasonable price point. The 38mm case—available in stainless steel (G1/G2) or bronze (G3/G4)--is demonstrative of a practiced eye for good taste and decency; you’ll find no ostentatiousness, gaudiness, or excess here. Simply clean lines, balanced proportions, and tasteful finishing. With a profile slightly reminiscent of 1950s Rolexes, the 13.5mm thick mid-case and 19mm lugs have polished sides and are brushed on the top and bottom, while the bezel is polished. While 13.5mm may sound like it is on the thick side, you won't notice it due to the perfect contouring. And yes, you read that right: 19mm lugs. Stop moaning. This is all about proportions and the look and feel of the watch. I’ve long preached the gospel of a 2:1 case-to-lugs ratio. Watch brands should be striving for this balance and Carpenter has adhered to it. Good on them. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent black bronze

    On the side of the case, a screw-down serves to make the watch more durable and less prone to damage. The most common aftersales repair Carpenter received prior to the Gent was broken crown stems. A screw-down crown adds durability and reduces the chance that a late-night bump into the door frame will end in a service ticket. The crown also reinforces water resistance, which is 5ATM as marketed, but reportedly as good as 10ATM on the wrist. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent side

    Rolling the watch over, one has a view of the Swiss movement through sapphire crystal. The screw-down caseback is inscribed with all the details you need to know but won’t read. So I won’t bother typing them. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent case back

    Back to the front, the Brooklyn Gent features a true-to-style acrylic crystal. In talking with Neil about developing and producing the newest model, the biggest obstacle was acrylic crystals. The brand’s manufacturing partners were quite stubborn about sapphire being superior. I’m glad Neil stuck to his guns because the acrylic makes the vintage vibe that much stronger. I also like tapping on it. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent

    Looking through the acrylic, the face of the Brooklyn Gent is a graceful execution of a vintage dial. Available in brushed champagne steel sun-ray or matte black (not a hard decision), the dial features unassuming baton markers separated by straight minute markers. Just outside the minute track are numbers at 5-minute intervals, starting at “00” at 12 o’clock. The numbers on the outside track are certainly not offensive—they are far too subtle to be so—but they are a bit superfluous on such a watch that leans towards dressy. However, if the goal in using them was to tamp down on the dressiness of the watch, it was successful, suggesting that the Brooklyn Gent is meant for the office, the street, and the countryside. The dial text is otherwise well-balanced and unobtrusive, and I’d expect nothing less from a watch born of an industrial designer’s hands. The pencil hands and the framed circular date window (along with the minute numerals) are carried over from the Brooklyn Field. As on that model, here they serve to further imbue the watch with a modern aesthetic that dovetails nicely with an otherwise vintage-styled watch. The hands match the case color and have C3 Super-LumiNova, though on a watch of this styling it may lume may not have been necessary; I actually found its inclusion visually disruptive on the black dial, bronze case model. But that’s one small nit, on one model of a four-model line-up that so far is without a real blemish. And regrettably, that brings me to my biggest gripe about the watch itself. The date window is too small for the numerals on the date wheel. As you get into the later days of the month, you’ll find that the numbers are desperate for breathing room, pushing right up against the edges of the space provided by the frame. The solution may not be so easy, though, as enlarging the frame would mean disrupting the equilibrium of the dial. A better option may be to reduce the font size on the date wheel. I understand this isn’t a huge issue—the date remains readable—but to have a watch this clean upset by an issue so tiny seems a shame. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent

    Powering the Brooklyn Gent is the venerable ETA 2824-2, a 25-jewel automatic movement. Perhaps the most common of all the modern ETA movements, it features a 42-hour power reserve, and a custom engraved rotor featuring the Carpenter name and logo. With Swatch-owned ETA finally following through on its perennial threats to limit supply outside of its corporate umbrella, these movements are going to be less and less common, so the opportunity to get a solid watch with an even more solid movement that can be serviced by literally any competent watchmaker is not an opportunity to overlook. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent

    Let’s get back to the 19mm lugs, which require 19mm straps. I know you’ve been struggling through the review after having read about this spec. And I’ll again advise you to cool your jets, take a breath, grab a glass of water, and start acting like an adult. Let me begin with the optional stainless steel bracelet. Polished center links pair with brushed out links to meet flush with the watch case, tapering from 19mm to a butterfly clasp (remember, this isn’t a dive watch, you don’t need flip-lock). The end links are fixed to the bracelet so you won’t have to spend 10 minutes looking for them each time you want to go Full Metal Jacket on your wrist. If that’s not enough for you, Carpenter also sells four different leather straps (my favorite is the brown semi-brushed leather), though I’d go with the steel clasp, as I found the brass tang a bit pliable, bending back when I pushed to strap it tight to my wrist (likely not an issue if you don’t wear your straps as tight as I do). As far as non-Carpenter pairings, I found the steel case models quite easy to change out, but the black dial, bronze case model (Model G4) proved challenging. I think my green leather strap did a good job but was pressed to find another color that would pair as nicely as black leather. For me, a watch needs to be able to transition between at least three strap/bracelet options, preferably more, and for that reason, I’d count the G4 out. If you are still angry about the 19mm lugs and my patented cure-all of jet-cooling, breathing, water, and adulting hasn’t worked, then be advised that any strap producer worth noting is making 19mm straps (CheapestNato, B&R, Barton, Vario, Hirsch, Hadley Roma, etc). And you can always get a custom strap for under $100 on Etsy or from the thousands of amateur leather craftspeople online. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent wrist

    It’s hard picking a favorite of the Brooklyn Gent line up. Neil Carpenter says he’s been partial to the G3 (champagne dial, bronze case) on the brown leather strap. The G2 (black dial, steel case) on that same strap really caught my eye. For all-around wear, though, I’d give my vote to the G1, with its easy-wearing champagne dial and steel case combo. As an unrepentant strap swapper, it would offer me the most versatility. As I mentioned earlier, the G4 is out due to the limited strap options and the visual issue I had with the lumed hands. 

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent  bronze

    The Brooklyn Gent can be ordered from the Carpenter website and is available starting at $825, with the braceleted and bronze models running $895. Here’s some great news, though: right now, they’re all $100 off! With four models limited the 250 pieces each, the Brooklyn Gent offers an essential vintage look with modern touches that would serve any collection well—whether it's your first watch or your hundredth. ⬩

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent

    Carpenter Brooklyn Gent


    Octon Watch

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    There are a lot of Rolex Submariner homages out there and for good reason. After all, it’s an iconic, well-balanced design. People love them, and I own a few myself (homages that is, not real Rolexes. I mean, I am a cheapskate after all). Of course, even a good design gets tiresome after you have seen it a couple hundred times, so it is always nice to see a brand take that tried and true Sub template and shake it up a bit. Sweden’s Octon Watches has done just that, creating an eye-catching little number with multiple customization options for a crazy low price. 

    Octon automatic dive watch black green

    The watch arrived in a tidy padded case with a hinged and locking lid. It is a nice presentation and the sort of travel case that might actually see some practical use. Its dense foam insert held the watch, extra strap, strap tool, and warranty cards. 

    Octon automatic dive watch black green side

    In typical Submariner form, the Octon has a stainless steel case that is 40mm wide, 47.5mm long, and 13mm thick from the case back to the domed sapphire crystal. These are good proportions. I found the Octon fit neatly on my 6.75” wrist. It has a signed screw down crown, threaded case back, and is rated for a healthy 300m water resistance. There are no crown guards and the sides are flat. A slim polished chamfer runs the length of the otherwise brushed case. The lugs are drilled and set 22mm apart, a bit wider than the usual Sub-style 20mm. The case back carries a somewhat macabre engraving of a bizarrely tentacled diver. There are no surprises here, just a solid foundation for what is to come. My only gripe is that the crown requires a firm push in order to make sure it threads properly on the first try. 

    Octon automatic dive watch black green case back

    A good dose of the Octon's quirky charm comes from the odd assemblage of design cues in its dial. You get the typical circles-and-bars layout, but with Tudor snowflake hands and a Millgaus lightning bolt second hand. Octon dips deep into the palette to whip up Neptune Blue with Aurora Green accents, Meteor Grey with Solar Yellow, Lunar Blue (robin's egg) with white, and the intense Black and Aurora Green that I tried for this review. Clearly, they are not afraid of a splash of color. You will find that lurid green on the bezel index, handset, and text. It looks fabulous right until the lights go down, at which point you will remember that black lume - and I don't think I'm saying anything controversial here - sucks. It's just a simple fact that dark lume does not glow as brightly as light lume and black is by any measure a mightly dark color. You get a little burst at first, and the hands glow stronger than the rest, but it all fades rapidly. If lume is a priority, you will be better off with the white X1 SuperLuminova on the Lunar Blue and Meteor Grey versions. If not, then be sure to keep your activities well lit.

    Octon automatic dive watch black green detail

    Once you have chosen your dial, you get to pick a bezel. This one was a matching black/green but you can select any of the other color combinations on the 60-minute aluminum insert, or go for a 12-hour bezel in black/silver, silver/black, or a Batman blue and black. Regardless of style, the bezel provides the right amount of resistance and zero back play as it moves through its 120-clicks

    Octon automatic dive watch black green

    Straps are next. A stainless steel bracelet with a signed flip-lock clasp is the standard item. Straps include several colors of Perlon, nylon NATOs, two-piece fabric Zulus, leather, and rubber. The only strap that runs you any more is the leather, and that is only a $13 premium. The loaner came with a textured black rubber strap as the extra, and while it looked fine on its own and had a sturdy signed buckle, I didn't think it was the best pairing with this color combination. Of course, that is why Octon lets you play with so many. The right one for me is in there somewhere. The solid black rubber and neon green Perlon both look pretty tempting.

    Octon automatic dive watch black green strap

    Finally, we get to the movement. This is the one option that will really move the price, but even then, the difference is modest. A 24 jewel, 21.6k Seiko NH35 is the base engine. Another $63 gets you a smooth 28.8k, 24 jewel Miyota 9015. Big spenders can shell out the $138 premium for a 28.8k, 24 jewel Swiss ETA 2824-2. There is no bad choice here. All three are reliable, durable, and easily serviced. Its a matter of what is important to you. Personally, while I like the smooth sweep of the 9015 and 2824-2, I can easily give it up for the cheaper, quieter NH35.

    Octon automatic dive watch black green wrist

    Honestly though, the cost is hardly an overriding issue with the Octon. For the $225 base price you can order up the style of your choice of a bracelet or waterproof strap and the rock-solid NH35 inside, or you can get one "fully loaded" on leather and packing a 2824-2 for $377. Either way, you are getting a deal. If you choose one of Octon's off-the-shelf combinations, you get the bracelet and an extra strap for the same price. Better still, no matter what you buy, Octon will donate 10% to the Sea Legacy ocean conservation organization.

    Octon automatic dive watch black green

    I did not think I would enjoy the Octon as much as I did. Lume aside, the black/green dial is quite cool, and I love the value. For a tidy, practical, funky watch that will survive all manner of aquatic activities, you would do well to check out OctonWatches.com. ⬩

    Octon automatic dive watch black green, black lume

    Octon automatic dive watch clasp

    Octon automatic dive watch black white rubber strap






    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom “Santiago”

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    I reviewed the Aqua in 2015, back when Undone had first launched its line of customizable diving watches. I ordered up a blue sunray dial in a brushed stainless steel case with my blog name on the case back. Since then, I have reviewed several other Undone models, so many, in fact, that when they offered another watch for review, I took the ultimate Undone challenge and created an Aqua Pro-custom dial. Given carte blanche for the watch of my choice, I set to work with the widest range of Undone options ever offered and created the first and only Time Bum Santiago 84 Days.

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago

    Before I tell you about my design process, a little recap of the base watch is in order. The Aqua is a 200m diver powered by a Seiko NH35 automatic. It is a hefty tool, measuring 45mm wide, 52mm long, and 15mm thick. On my 6.75” wrist, I can just barely get away with it. The stainless steel case features wedge-shaped crown guards and a straight bridge between the lugs that eliminates the gap between the strap and the barrel. A signed, screw-down octagonal crown and threaded case back help seal it for a 200m depth rating.

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago wrist

    Ok, now for the fun stuff. 

    Undone’s system walks you through the customization process step by step, starting with the dial; however, considering that the whole point of the Pro-custom is to design your own, the dial you select is really just a place holder. Once you have chosen all the other elements (case, bezel, hands, date, strap, and case back), you submit your order and when you get your confirmation email, you request the Pro-custom option and submit your artwork and description. At that point, you will work with the Undone design team to make it a reality. Pro-customs can be existing Undone dials with custom colors or artwork, or full-on 3D printed creations. Their gallery includes lunar surfaces, tire treads, diamond plate, you name it. Once you and the designer have hammered out your idea and you approve their rendering, the watch can be produced and shipped in under two weeks, which is frankly amazing for a custom-built watch. 

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago

    It would have been great if I could have whipped up my own concept rendering in Adobe Illustrator or a similar software package, but I don’t know how and have no desire to learn. Fortunately, such skill is not required. The Undone folks were able to work with my photos of sample watches and detailed descriptions of the design elements, providing an illustration after each exchange. It only took two or three emails for us get it exactly right and their suggestions were very helpful. 


    The idea of designing my own watch set my head spinning. Even though some key elements like case shape and hand length are already set in stone, the prospect of creating a dial from a blank sheet of paper is a bit daunting. Add to that 2 handsets, 9 case coatings (PVD or Cerakote), and 25 bezels (domed mineral or ceramic), and you can see how your choices can quickly get out of hand. Moreover, it is easy to step over the line from a watch designed around a novel theme, to a novelty watch that will never see the outside of your watch drawer. 

    In the end, my search for a novel theme actually yielded a theme from a novel — Ernest Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea. For those of you who skipped your American Literature class, the old man is Santiago, who makes a meager living deep sea fishing from his tiny skiff off the coast of Cuba. He is in dire straits, having gone nearly three months without a catch before he hooks a mighty marlin and struggles to bring it to shore. 

    After playing around with dozens of combinations in the online configurator, browsing the gallery of previous pro-custom creations, and scratching out several back-of-the-envelope sketches, I finally settled on a vintage dive-style dial and black and Old Radium color scheme. Dial design is not an easy task, and I am not a trained designer, so to avoid making a hash of it, I decided to steal an existing, tried-and-true layout: raised trapezoids housing the 12, 3, 6, and 9, and triangles for the remainder. I’d seen this on several 1960’s skin divers but the images I pilfered were from late 60’s Galcos and a Phillys. I asked the Undone team to copy the marker shapes exactly and use my own text. I toyed with the idea of putting a leaping marlin on there, but it would have looked like a Tommy Bahama. Besides, it was too obvious. Better to keep it low key. 

    I had originally wanted raised white frames filled with Old Radium lume, but I soon learned that Undone only prints white lume on the custom pieces. Not wanting to change my design all that radically, I opted for white lume frames with a raised center on which they would print a tan insert. The numbers would be left black. Now, Old Radium is an option for the hands and bezel (and for their off-the-shelf dials too) so I selected that for the black Mercedes hands and black domed K1 mineral bezel. These are good and bright. My dial, on the other hand, looks fabulous when recently lit but there just isn’t enough surface area in those thin white outlines and it pales quickly against the much stronger hands and bezel. 

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago lume

    Undone provides day and night renders in the design process, so this wasn’t a surprise I knew the overprinting and thin outline wouldn’t provide all that much light, but it was worth it to get the color I wanted, and I do like the way the white frames mimic the originals’ metal markers. I feared the printed tan would not match the Old Radium and yes, it is ever so slightly off. If I were designing this watch for mass production, I would make sure it all matched. For my own use, it is just fine. 

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago

    For dial text, I went back to the book. My “brand” would be Santiago. In a riff on the Panerai 8 Days, I marked my watch “Eighty-Four Days” — not for the duration of the power reserve of course, but for the length of time the old man had gone since his last fish. I made it red for a pop of color to complement the red lollipop second hand, and as a bit of a joke on the famed Rolex “red” Submariner. Finally, “100 Fathoms” for the approximate depth rating of the watch (200m) and the depth at which Santiago hooks his marlin.  I chose Copperplate for the typeface as just about every software package has it and it is reasonably close to the style used on 1960's divers like the old Doxa SUB 300. I let the design team finalize size and placement and I am very happy with the result. 

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago

    The case is the standard Aqua unit. While there are some very cool colors to play with, I wanted black PVD. This was going to be a conservative tool watch and I had already sampled the steel finish. Bright red Cerakote, while pretty darn cool, was not going to work here. Also, knowing how big the watch was, I went for the black-on-black Johnny Cash look to make it appear a tad smaller. In my earlier review, I took issue with the case finish, noting that it was sharp between the lugs and the brushing looked rough. I’m pleased to report that I did not encounter either problem on my new watch. 

    Case back options include an exhibition window with customer supplied art or a solid, engraved lid. I tried the window before so this time I asked for engraving, inscribing a quote from the book, “A man can be destroyed but not defeated.” It’s a bit heavy-handed for a watch, but it does sum up the book rather nicely. The engraving is deep, clean, and filled with the same tan color as the dial printing.

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago case back

    My last custom item was the strap. On this order, Undone offered to transfer my color art onto any of their leather straps. This something new that they are trying out, and it is not yet available to the public, so it was a pretty special thing for them to let the old Bum try it. While I would have loved to do something of the bomber nose art variety (and would likely do that on another day for a different watch) it did not make sense for the Santiago. Instead, I requested something on the order of the Bell & Ross printed Heritage strap and provided a photo for reference. On the long end, I used my favorite quote from the book, "To hell with luck. I'll bring the luck with me." Now, it always bugs me when I see modern literary quotes displayed in flowing calligraphy. Hemingway didn’t use a quill and ink; he banged out his works on an Underwood, Corona, or Royal Quiet DeLuxe, so I had his words rendered in American Typewriter typeface.

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago strap

    The short end has the number 84 again, another watch nerd reference, this time to the Panerai 74 strap. I think it came out great. I asked them to position the quote right over the adjustment holes, knowing full well that the buckle would rub some off. I’m good with the worn look because I think this is the kind of watch that should look like it has seen some real use but if you really want to preserve your image, I’d recommend you keep it near the watch head -- when Undone launches the service, that is. 

    Undone Aqua Pro-Custom Time Bum Santiago  strap

    As mentioned above, this watch was provided in exchange for my review but had I ordered it myself, it would have cost $475 for the base watch and $185 for the Pro-custom dial for a total of $660. This is not impulse-buy cheap but it is entirely reasonable for a one-of-a-kind creation. If you sign up for their mailing list, you can shave 10% off. 

    I am immensely pleased with my Undone Aqua Pro-custom. Are there things I might do differently next time? Sure. But that is part of the fun. Once you have created your first custom piece it is almost impossible not to want to try more. That said, I will never give up my Santiago. If you are ready to try your hand at a customized or Pro-custom head over to Undone.com. You won’t be sorry. ⬩

    Xeric Trappist-1

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    With NASA's blessing, the folks at Xeric fired up their creative engines to design a watch commemorating the 50th anniversary of the July 20, 1969 moon landing. Working from the highly successful Trappist-1 Moonphase, the new NASA Edition features orbiting hands, sweeping star seconds, a choice of automatic or quartz movements and unique case construction machined from 316L stainless steel. The watch launched on Kickstarter an hour ago and is already funded more than 6x over. 

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition

    Measuring 44mm wide and 15mm thick, the Trappist-1 NASA Edition has plenty of room to show off its novel dial and handset. The watch uses two orbiting planets to tell the time. The inner orbit indicates the hour while the outer planet points to the minutes. The planetary hands are backfilled with Super LumiNova to be easily legible throughout the night. The automatic versions also feature tritium gas-filled tubes on the hands. These glass tubes glow brightly and continuously for decades without having to be charged by any external light like traditional luminescent material used in watches.

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition lume

    One of the watch's most striking features is the spidery cage over the dial. This grille was inspired by the Cupola module on the ISS, the largest viewing port ever placed in space. The Cupola is comprised of 7 windows to create the ultimate 3D observation deck, giving astronauts an incredible view of the earth below and the space that surrounds it. The grille's 12 support bridges serve as hour markers.

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition

    Beneath the grille, is a star map of the constellations surrounding the Trappist-1 solar system. In a remarkable display of accuracy, they are printed in varying sizes using SuperLuminova, matching the relative luminosity and distance of each star in that slice of the night sky. The automatic version is powered by a Miyota 82S0 and features a custom rotor inspired by the Trappist-1 solar system. The positive/negative orbit paths represent 5 of the 7 planets that orbit around the central red dwarf star. 

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition

    The quartz version features a limited edition caseback, celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Apollo moon landing. The laser-engraved graphic pays tribute to the original mission patch that was released after Apollo 11’s successful return home. Automatics have an exhibition caseback to show off the Trappist-1's custom rotor.

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition auto case back

    The watch features a dome crystal made from Hesalite, a material that was originally developed for NASA. The material was introduced in the 1960s as a crystal replacement for space-bound watches. The first watch to be worn on the moon by Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong had to withstand the harsh environment of space. A standard sapphire crystal poses many issues in the event of an impact in zero gravity as tiny fragments of floating glass could spell disaster for the cabin and onboard crew. To remedy this, NASA replaced sapphire crystals with Hesalite versions as they have a higher resistance to impact and do not shatter like traditional glass.

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition

    The straps are made using full-grain leather from a US-based Horween tannery. The leather is textured and stitched to pay tribute to the articulated ridge-lines seen on space gloves.

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition

    Only 1969 pieces of each Trappist-1 NASA Edition variant will be crafted, and each piece will be individually numbered to ensure authenticity. The quartz model will even come with an engraved 50th-anniversary commemorative caseback of the Apollo 11 mission patch. 

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition

    As of this writing, you can still get a Quartz for $169 or and Automatic for $279. After the campaign, those prices will increase to $250 and $450. Make a pledge today to get your hands on this celestial marvel and snag the special discount, too. Head on over to the Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Kickstarter page to get started. ⬩

    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition
    Xeric Trappist-1 NASA Edition

    Undone x Peanuts: Lunar Mission

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    This is quite a year for space buffs. July 20 marks the 50th anniversary of the historic Apollo 11 moon landing and in a remarkable coincidence, astronomers rediscovered the Apollo 10 lunar module “Snoopy,” believed lost when it was jettisoned in May 1969. Undone is commemorating this very special year with yet another of their popular Peanuts collaboration watches, available and customizable now at the Undone web store.

    Undone x Peanuts Lunar Mission
    Launched on May 18, 1969, Apollo 10 was the “dummy run” for the iconic Apollo 11 lunar landing, a final test of all components and procedures except the landing sequence. Prior to the mission, NASA contacted Peanuts cartoonist Charles M. Schulz, who was thrilled to have his universally beloved characters as mission mascots. The Apollo 10 command and service module was thus dubbed “Charlie Brown,” and the lunar module, “Snoopy.” Charlie Brown returned safely to Earth, while Snoopy was jettisoned into perpetual orbit around the Sun. 

    Undone x Peanuts Lunar Mission

    The Undone Lunar Mission watches have a stainless steel case measuring 40mm wide (41.8 mm across the bezel) and 12 mm thick, including the domed crystal. It features multi-level polishing, clean edges, and detailed chamfers along the lugs. Some models are fitted with tachymeter bezel for calculating speed. Of course, it wouldn’t be Undone without a wealth of custom options. Buyers may select the Snoopy ACES (Advanced Escape Crew Suit) for $365 with configurable case finishes, bezels, dials, handsets, engravings, and straps, or simply select one of the pre-configured models including two limited edition (300 pcs) Snoopy Moon Heritage and Snoopy Starlight ($480) models.

    Undone x Peanuts Lunar Mission

    Strap options are plentiful and easily swapped thanks to quick-release pins. Strap size is 20mm, but material and color are yours to choose. Options include a variety of leathers and fabrics, but the best may be the orange Cordura which comes with each watch. The color is the same as used on modern “international orange”  spacesuits also worn by the Peanuts characters. The two limited-edition models come with an additional slip-in/slip-out parachute cord strap: a modern, elastic rendition of the Velcro straps worn on the NASA missions. 

    To get your Undone x Peanuts Lunar Mission watch, head over to Undone site. ⬩

    Undone x Peanuts Lunar Mission

    Undone x Peanuts Lunar Mission wrist

    Undone x Peanuts Lunar Mission lume

    NTH Nazario Ghost

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    NTH keeps on cranking out new models in the Subs series. I have been a fan of these Submariner inspired watches since the very beginning, and my affection has only grown as the brand strays farther from the original vintage Rolex formula and into edgier and more novel designs. One of the newest is the Nazario Ghost, a limited edition sold exclusively through Watch Gauge for $675. 

    NTH Nazario Ghost
    All NTH Subs share the same beautifully proportioned stainless steel case. It measures 40mm wide, 48mm lug-to-lug and an impressive 11.5mm thick. Despite its low profile, the watch is suitable for an impressive 300m water resistance. A broad, flat, screw-down crown keeps the lines trim. The surface is brushed and accented with a polished bevel. 

    NTH Nazario Ghost wrist

    double-domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a 120-click, unidirectional bezel top off the Ghost. Bezel action is ideal and I like the fact that NTH uses an engraved steel insert. It looks better and weathers abuse better than aluminum, and unlike ceramic, it won't shatter if it takes a hard hit.

    NTH Nazario Ghost case back

    Case backs have tended to be no-nonsense affairs on this series, bearing only the vital specs and a logo; in this case, the Watch Gauge 10:10 "W." Behind it lies is a smooth and reliable 24-jewel, 28.8k Miyota 9039 automatic, the no-date wheel version of the popular and reliable 9015 movement.

    NTH Nazario Ghost

    The 20mm bracelet is a quality piece with screwed links tapering to an 18mm signed flip-lock clasp. Of course, if you prefer to swap a strap instead, drilled lugs make it easy.

    Of all the Subs series, the Nazario models are perhaps the most outrageous. Inspired by the rare Rolex Zerograph Ref. 3346, the dial features a railroad track index, poire squelette hands, and a half-Roman, half-Arabic "California dial" surrounded by an engraved steel bezel 

    NTH Nazario Ghost

    In a way, the Ghost's white-on-black color scheme seems rather sedate, at least when compared to the original with its vintage lume and gray/red bezel, the full-lume Sauro, or the sunray blue Azzurro. I suspect this will attract buyers who want something more along the lines of a traditional high contrast diver. Unlike its Nazario stablemates, the Ghost's large "skeleton" markers are outlined, not filled, giving it a look that is unique in the line-up. The depth text and logo are printed in black-on-black, further underscoring the Ghost's phantom credentials.

    NTH Nazario Ghost lume

    It's an attractive dial in daylight, but like any good ghost, it is at its best in the dark when the BGW9 SuperLuminova casts its intense blue glow. In true NTH fashion, the bezel and crown light up along with the hands and dial markers.

    I think the Ghost is a worthy addition to the Nazario line. If you want one for yourself, head over Watch Gauge. ⬩

    NTH Nazario Ghost lume


    Vario Travel Cases and Vintage Italian Leather Straps

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    When Vario launched the outstanding Empire Art Deco watch earlier this year, they offered it with a new strap, cut from Italian leather with a classic taper. I thought it was a perfect complement to the watch and likely many others. For this review, Vario sent me a set in the full range of colors as well as four of their new watch travel cases, all of which will then be raffled off at the District Time watch show (October 12-13, Washington, DC, join us!).

    Vario Vintage Italian Leather Straps Hosam HMT


    Vintage Italian Leather Strap

    Out of respect for the eventual winners, these straps have been fitted on watches for photos and then carefully packed away unworn; however, I have been wearing my own Vario Italian strap on my personal Empire, so I can attest to its comfort and fit.

    Vario Vintage Italian Leather Straps

    The Vario straps are made from full-grain leather from Provincia de Vicenza, Italy that has a rich texture and deep color. They are 3mm thick and taper to 2mm at the buckle for a classic look. Colors include Onyx Black, Pewter Gray, Royal Blue, Espresso Brown, and Mahogany Brown. All have cream color stitching, which tones them down a bit and complements watches with gold accents or off-white dials like that of my Tissot V8.

    Vario Vintage Italian Leather Straps blue Tissot

    Vario offers the strap in 18, 19, 20, and 22mm widths, all with handy, quick-release straps. I was particularly keen on the 19mm as I have a growing number of late 60's pieces like the two Seikos pictured here that need that oddball size. I found it paired particularly well with these vintage pieces.

    Vario Vintage Italian Leather Straps 1960s Seiko

    The Vario Vintage Italian is a tailored, understated strap and a satisfying alternative to the now almost ubiquitous minimal stitch style. For $32, it's hard to pass up.

    Deluxe Travel Case

    Try as I might, I cannot look at the $25 Deluxe Travel Case without thinking of a donut. It's not a donut, of course, as it has no center hole, but some first impressions are hard to shake. That said, this compact unit has come in handy. Sturdy, crush-proof, and compact (5" wide and 2.3" high), the case will swallow one watch - even big ones like the 54mm G-Shock. It is covered in a tough fabric in your choice of four muted colors.

    Vario Deluxe Travel cases

    The watch inside is held in circular depression that is zippered securely shut. That semi-donut hole in the center keeps it in place and prevents it from coming into contact with itself, which is a great advantage when carrying a watch on a bracelet as the clasp cannot rub the caseback. I love my watch rolls, but when I want to carry one in the most protected manner possible, this is the case I reach for.

    You can buy the straps and cases at Vario.sg and be sure to take advantage of the volume discount. Also, if you find yourself in Washington, DC on October 12 or 13, 2019, stop by District Time to check them out in person and maybe take a free one home! ⬩




    Watch Packaging - What the Hell?

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    This a photo of two 16x12x24" bins overflowing with all the boxes from all of my current watches. Now, I confess that given the nature of my hobby, the fact that I am a watch blogger, and my own reluctance to sell watches, I probably have more than the average bear, but this is crazy. There is no good reason to have this kind of packaging in the first place. So I am asking the watch manufacturers of the world to think twice about pumping more of this stuff into our closets, and ultimately, our landfills.

    Pile of watch boxes
    Why do I have all this crap?
    I know most of you are saying, "If you don't like them, just throw them out!" That is not an unreasonable position. Indeed, now that I have assembled them for the photo op, I am doing just that. I will weed through this pile of junk, repurpose some of the nicer boxes for warranty cards and the like, and keep only what I truly need. But if anything, that only underscores the colossal amount of waste involved.

    I kept this stuff for two reasons. First, because collectors tend to like it when you can supply a watch with the "full kit." Second, because I hate tossing anything that someone put effort into, and knowing as many microbrand owners as I do, I know that they do not generally treat their packaging lightly. They put a great deal of time and effort into making the unboxing experience something memorable.

    I am rethinking both of those positions. The effort that went into the box is admirable, but it has already served its purpose for the brand. Now that the watch is on my wrist, its job is done and all the stuff it came in can move along. The "full kit" situation can make a difference on some watches but not others. I will keep the box and papers for my TAG Heuer Monaco, because when that is eventually sold - I hope, by my kids or grandkids long after I die of advanced old age - having all the bits will make it more desirable. On the other hand, will the original zippered vinyl travel case increase the value of my Deep Blue Defender by a single cent? Likely not. With those two precepts in mind, I just went on a ruthless, Stalinesque purge, trashing or recycling about three-quarters of my accumulated boxes. 

    So now that I have established what I don't want, what do I want instead? In general, watches are pretty sturdy. I have shipped scores of them in two layers of bubble wrap stuffed into small USPS Priority Mail boxes without incident. As a practical matter, that is all you need, and it certainly paresdown shipping costs - particularly overseas. Of course, that is unacceptable for anyone buying or selling a brand new watch. Beyond sufficient protection in transit, we need something to establish brand identity, and to provide a satisfying initial experience for the buyer.

    A recent arrival opened my eyes. I purchased a Seals Model C Field Explorer, a tough and stylish tool watch. It arrived in a canvas watch roll with its extra straps, inside a cloth pouch. It was shipped in brown paper in a plain brown cardboard box. That's it. The whole kit kept the watch safe in transit without incurring the cost of shipping a glossy wooden box. It provided ample brand identity. The roll is something I will actually use. If I simply keep it for posterity or resale, it will take up very little space. If I really don’t want it, I can sell or give it away to someone who will. If just toss it in the trash (which I will not, it’s quite nice) the canvas, leather, and fabric will decompose. The worst of it will be the nylon thread and I can live with that. 

    Some big brands already do a pretty good job of this. The Seiko blue box is hardly over the top and appears to be mostly recyclable, and Timex boxes are simple cardboard, but as the price of a watch goes up, so it seems does the size and cost of its presentation packaging. Now, I don't expect a Tudor to arrive this way (yet), but microbrands, I'm talking to you. You are supposed to be the innovators, taking chances and steering the market into the future. 

    Seals watch roll pouch
    Seals, doing watch packaging right
    My ideal watch packaging would be a wad of biodegradable padding that could not be opened with being destroyed. That is highly unlikely to happen, but reusable items, lightweight packaging, and recyclable materials should not be too much to ask. Watch rolls are awesome but not for everyone. Leather pouches can at least be repurposed and won't be floating around the ocean floor for the next several millennia. If you must have a box, make it small, use cardboard or wood, and lay off the processing. Padding or other inserts should be removable. Watchmakers are a creative lot. I know I am barely scratching the surface here. 

    In my reviews, I almost never mention packaging because I don’t care about it. People buy the watch, not the box. But from now on, I’m casting a more critical eye on those boxes. You want to impress me? Use something clever and sustainable. Don't ship your watch is a display box that is more than ten times bigger than it needs to be and by all means, lose the vinyl and plastic.

    Come on folks, I know we can do better than this. ⬩


    Haven Chilton

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    The Haven Chilton—the Midwest brand’s first offering—is all about the dial. There are other great things about it, but when it comes down to it, you’d be buying it for the dial. It’s got texture, it’s got color, it’s got numbers and words and circles. It’s got practically everything you want from a dial. You can even check your pulse. Or your friend’s. Or, if you’re getting familiar, your friend’s friend’sAs I write this, the watch has already been returned, and I sit in sorrow, missing the dial.  
      
    Haven Chilton
    Haven Watch Co. was started by Weston Cutter in Ft. Wayne, Indiana.  The son of a watchmaker, he has always loved timepieces, but about 5 years ago became enthralled by all that vintage has to offer. Fast forward to 2018, and he and his watchmaker friend (Yes, he has two watchmakers in his life. Can you imagine the savings?) decided to pursue the creation of a classic manual-wind chrono. And just like that, we have the Chilton, a watch fully assembled and regulated in the Midwest.  

    Haven Chilton

    At 37.5mm in diameter and 13mm thick, the Chilton is a sensibly sized vintage-inspired chrono that doesn’t get caught up in flashiness. Its 18mm drilled lugs feature multiple chamfers for an elegant twist effect (similar, but not quite the same as Omega lugs). The 316L stainless steel case features contrasting polished and brushed surfaces, with a fixed bezel. Standard pump pushers and an easy-to-grip crown with the “H” logo finish off the watch as seen from above. On the reverse, a solid titanium screw-down case back provides the watch with 3ATM water resistance but that may be bumped to 5ATM on production models—just in case you want to take a bubble bath. The caseback itself is emblazoned a graphic of the Great Lakes; while the prototype was simply etched, the final version will be in relief, providing a better aesthetic.  

    Haven Chilton case back

    But let’s get back to that delightful dial. Hiding under a double-domed, double AR-coated sapphire crystal, this champagne masterpiece pops with color and is perfectly executed. Also available in blue, the proportions are excellent all around. I catch you looking at the outer chapter ring: Pulsations? Why not a tachymeter? Well, it’s a practical matter: how often have you used a tachy ring to check how fast something was going, or a telemeter to figure out how far away that storm was? I’m not saying you're going to check your pulse any more often than you would’ve done those things, but you’ve always got a pulse to check (if you don’t, call 911). Mr. Cutter favors using his to check his pulse after a run. And if you just can’t bear the pulsations, the blue dial has a decimal scale.  

    Haven Chilton

    The subdials feature a radial texture, with the 30-minute totalizer separated into black, red, and cyan thirds (would we call that cyan?). I’ve also been advised that, in a nod to vintage chronos, there will be long hashmarks on that subdial at 3, 6, and 9 minutes. This harkens back to the days (c. 1950s) when long-distance calls were charged in 3-minute increments. It was a better time, when being rich meant the luxury of really catching up with Aunt Millie. Materteral digressions aside, I love the handset they chose here. There is something…puffy about it. That’s a terrible word to use, but there is a roundness to the edges of the hands that I can’t get enough of. Look closely and you’ll see the reflections coming off them, and how the lume is sunk into the hour and minute hands. Marvelous.  

    Haven Chilton wrist

    The only—I mean O-N-L-Y—issue I found with the watch was with the height of the fixed bezel. As it is, it creates too much space between the crystal and the dial. When you need to clear a handset and you’re using double-domed sapphire, you’re going to have some extra height. But I feel there are ways around the issue that creates. Using a more thoroughly vintage big dome acrylic crystalyou could shorten the bezel and allow the crystal itself to clear the handset; this option may decrease the overall durability of the watch, though. Another option that wouldn’t sacrifice much is to add more depth/height to the dial. Perhaps applied indices (though that may disrupt the dial)? Or have a chapter ring insert for the pulsation scale, as opposed to having it printed on the dial itself. This would come up against the bezel wall and create the illusion of a shallower bezel.  Anyway, there you go. My one gripe.  

    Haven Chilton side

    Powering the Chilton is one of Sellita’s newest calibers, the SW510M. Released at Basel last year, the M is the manual winding version of the SW510, which is based on the Valjoux 7750. It’s offered in a few variants, but as far as I can tell, The Chilton is the first watch to go into production with the three-register option. You’ll find no issues with this excellent movement, and all functions were a go when I used the watch, including the satisfying click from the pushers.  

    Haven Chilton movement

    The Chilton comes standard with a 5-link bracelet with straight end links. While there’s something to be said for fitted end links, the straight ends are consistent with vintage watches, so I’ll give it a pass. The bracelet is a bit generic, but was comfortable and easy to size, with multiple micro-adjustment holes on the clasp.  In addition, each will ship with the buyer’s choice of 18mm leather strap—pebbled blue, ocher, or grey. My choice is the pebbled blue with yellow stitching because it’s great. The leather is hand cut in Indiana by Haven and finished by Leather Works Minnesota. When I first opened them up, I was concerned they may be a little wanting in the quality department, but I was pleasantly surprised, and I am happy to say that I wish I could buy them all in 20mm for all my other watches. They wore quite well with the watch and were as comfortable as almost any strap I’ve had. I also had the chance to put the watch on several of my own 18mm straps—black nato, green lizard, black leather—and it handled each with grace and aplomb.  

    Haven Chilton full kit

    Hot on the heels of The Time Bum’s diatribe on unnecessary packaging, I’d be remiss not to talk about what Haven has done. The watch is shipped in a recycled cardboard box (made in Illinois), wherein the watch itself is secured around a form-cut cardboard watch holder, with the extra strap of your choice in an adjacent slot (the inserts are made in Indiana)The Great Lakes are printed on the outside. It is exactly enough to handle the safe shipping of the watch, provide a pleasant opening experience, and then be promptly recycled. If you must do packaging (instead of an included watch roll or something, this is how it should be done. Reduce, reuse, recycle.  

    Haven Chilton packaging

    I’ve been putting off the pricing conversation until now. I wanted you to have a chance to really get to know the watch before you found out its price. The watch will retail at $1,799. You’re thinking that’s a bit much. And I hear you. It’s a new brand. We don’t know it from Parnis (it’s better than Parnis). But let’s look at the comps: Oris Diver 65 Chronograph, $4,000; Hanhart Primus Nautic chrono, $3,300; Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph, $4,300; Vertex MP45, $3,800. All those watches feature some variant of the Sellita SW510. Some of them are automatic, the Vertex is a monopusherthe Hanhart has a date. And all of those are “known” brands. The question you need to ask yourself is whether that’s worth the extra $2000+. I’d say it isn’t. And I’d say The Chilton makes a pretty good argument for its price tag. Also it’s assembled in the Midwest - of the United States of America.  

    Haven Chilton nato

    The Chilton does exactly what Haven intended: executes on the idea of a classic vintage chronograph. The dial pops, the hands shimmer, the lume shines, and the case is almost perfectly crafted. Toss in a solid bracelet and your choice of American-made straps, and the deal just gets sweeter. The Chilton is available for purchase now (shipping in August) and comes with a 2-year warranty.  ⬩
    Haven Chilton lume

    Haven Chilton wrist

    Haven Chilton bracelet

    Haven Chilton wrist

    BOLDR Expedition 2019

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    Singapore's BOLDR Supply Company has updated its successful Expedition line with a new line. I liked the original Rushmore when I reviewed it back in 2017, so I was keen to get my hands on the new and improved model. The Expedition has five variants, each named after famous mountains. They let me try a new 2019 Expedition Rushmore prototype for this review.

    BOLDR Expedition 2019 Rushmore wrist
    The watch is packed in a small stylish box. Its instructions invite you to savor the moment you open it and then share that joy on your social media. I confess, the appeal of the unboxing video eludes me so I passed on that suggestion. It is a perfectly cool little package, but not one that is likely to see the outside of a closet once its moment of internet fame has passed.


    BOLDR Expedition 2019 Rushmore package

    As before, the new Expeditions have a Swiss automatic movement, a multi-function rotating inner bezel, dual screw-down crowns, and a double-domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal, but the matte-finished blasted stainless steel case is entirely different. They have swapped the round design for a more aggressive, angular barrel shape that provides stronger wrist presence while retaining the compact proportions of the first-generation watch (40mm wide, 47mm long, 14mm thick). The external bezel is beveled and notched, but fixed in place. I prefer the new case to the original. Not that there was anything wrong with the classic round case, I just think the new one has more personality, while still fitting squarely within the confines of my 6.75" wrist.


    BOLDR Expedition 2019 Rushmore

    BOLDR makes the case back special on all their watches. This time around, it's a boot tread in a maze, in high relief and polished on a frosted background. Behind it lies a Sellita SW200-1 26-jewel, 28.8k bph, hacking and hand-winding automatic. It employs Diashock protection and will run about 38 hours without a nudge. 

    BOLDR Expedition 2019 Rushmore case back

    Like the first model, BOLDR has differentiated the crowns by giving the upper one a striking orange band, but on the new one, they have abandoned the knurled texture in favor of the brand's signature crown, featuring a split design with eight blunt peaks. The head on lower one is signed while the upper's is decorated with a debossed and lumed orange circle.

    BOLDR Expedition 2019 Rushmore side

    The dial is remarkably similar to the first model's. It bears the same even-numbered 12-hour and odd 24-hour indexes, and an internal 60-minute bezel. Differences are subtle and include slightly angular bars, a black date disk, and the elimination of the compass markings. If found the new dial worked well with the new semi-skeleton hands that are partly white and lumed to their snipped tips, and black from the lower half back to their split tails. A black second hand with an orange and lumed paddle tip provides the finishing touch. The two-tone BGW/C3 SuperLuminova glows long and strong. It is a highly functional dial in true field watch fashion, but with enough stylized details to set it apart from the crowd. 

    BOLDR Expedition 2019 Rushmore  lume

    The Expedition's 20mm custom rubber strap is another eye-catching element. The olive green natural rubber wears an aggressive pattern designed to echo the track-lines of military stealth tanks. Ribs on the underside are intended to help it breathe. I can't say for certain whether it was any stealthier than any other strap but it was certainly comfortable and looked fabulous. 

    BOLDR Expedition 2019 Rushmore strap

    Overall, I like what BOLDR has done with the Expedition series as all of the best parts remain and the updates all constitute improvements in my book. I'd say it earns its $599 MSRP, but I like it even better at its current $499 preorder price. 

    For more information or to order your own, see boldrsupply.co and if you are in DC October 12-13, 2019, see more BOLDR watches at the District Time show⬩



    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES

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    When I announced the Undone x Peanuts Lunar Landing collaboration last week, I promised a hands-on review soon. Just days later, the postman arrived with a Snoopy ACES and the watch has absolutely delighted everyone who has set eyes on it. 

    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES

    As mentioned in my earlier post, the Lunar Landing watches commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon mission, but also the rediscovery of the Apollo 10 lunar module “Snoopy,” believed lost when it was jettisoned after testing in May 1969.

    Like all Undone watches, the Lunar Landing watches can be customized with multiple dial, case, bezel, handset, and strap options including your choice of 21 different character illustrations (in full color, outline, or gray). This one arrived with a back-on-Black “Modern” dial, PVD black case, black and vintage engraved tachymetre bezel, and an orange Cordura strap. In the illustration, a full-color, space-suited Snoopy celebrates with Woodstock. 

    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES

    I’ve got a soft spot for the Peanuts comics. They were a staple of my childhood, and my very first watch was a Timex Snoopy. Sure, other kids had Micky Mouse watches, but Charles Schultz’s strip captured the anxieties and absurdities of life in a way that Disney’s giddy Mouse never could. Nostalgia aside, the illustration is clean and vibrant with raised edges and clear texture, which make it look more a part of the dial than a stamped-on afterthought. 

    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES

    The familiar Undone Chronograph dial has bar markers rendered in gray lume. It is appropriately outer spacey in its blackness but of course, dark lume generally fails quickly in low light. The vintage lume on the hands takes up the slack. For those looking for a better glow, I’d recommend the “Vintage Speedy” tan-lumed dial option. I have a similar set up on my Undone Urban Tropical and have no complaints. 

    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES lume

    Lunar Mission watches share the same style stainless steel case as the rest of the Urban Chronograph collection. It measures 40mm wide (41.8 mm across the bezel), 48mm long, and 12 mm thick to the top the domed K1 mineral crystal. Polished and brushed layers in the barrel’s profile, and narrow, angular lugs, make it appear even slimmer, accentuating its retro proportions. It is an easy watch to wear, especially for those of us with smaller wrists (6.75” in my case).  

    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES wrist

    The case back features “Snoopy” in NASA’s own typeface, ridden by a parade of Red Baron/Astronaut Snoopys. Engraved around it are the watch’s basic specs, including its 30m water resistance, which I would take as a warning that the Snoopy ACES may be ready for cartoon space travel, but not prolonged submersion in the earthly depths. 

    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES case back

    Inside, is the popular and reliable Seiko MechaQuartz hybrid movement, which marries a quartz timekeeper to a mechanical chronograph, providing quartz accuracy and simplicity with a smooth sweep hand, crisp button action, and a snap-back reset. 


    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES

    Undone’s packaging is attractive, secure, and best of all, small. The rigid, fabric-wrapped box is only 1.5" x 3.5" x 6.5" so it won’t take up too much room if you decide to hold onto it. Its dense foam confines fit the watch and one extra strap. 

    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES box

    This watch arrived on the standard “international orange” 20mm Cordura strap. It looks great on the watch, particularly as it ties into Snoopy’s ACES suit of the same color. Buyers will also get a second strap of their choice that can be easily swapped thanks to integrated quick-release pins.

    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES

    There aren’t many cartoon watches that would tempt this 50-year old, but I love the Snoopy ACES is marvelous. It helps that the base Urban Chronograph is already a thoughtfully designed piece. Nothing about it seems like a toy or a novelty. I would have no qualms about giving one to a kid, nor would I hesitate to wear it myself.

    If you appreciate a whimsical kind of cool, then head over to Undone.com, select your configuration, and for $365 they will assemble an Undone x Peanuts ACES watch just for you.


    Undone x Peanuts: Snoopy ACES

    James & Muriel TimeKeeper

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    Sometimes, it’s all about the color. Take the James & Muriel Timekeeper for instance. Many of its elements look familiar: the mid-sized round case, wire style lugs, Ronda quartz movement with small seconds, even the trendy “This & That” format brand name. We’ve seen more than a few of these watches. I’ve owned one or two. Yet when James & Muriel asked me to review their prototype, I immediately said yes because I really, really dig that sunset dial.

    James & Muriel TimeKeeper Horizon Blue


    Let me be clear, while the TimeKeeper is certainly familiar, familiar is not bad. The polished 41mm wide, 45mm long stainless steel case is exactly the right size for my 6.75” wrist and being only 10mm thick, it is a sensible choice when suiting up for the office. The 20mm black calf leather strap is appropriately neutral and dressy. Quick-release pins are a plus. Water resistance is 50m, which is not exactly tool watch territory, but more than ample for daily wear, especially given that the TimeKeeper is more of what I would call a fashionable dress/casual piece.  

    James & Muriel TimeKeeper Horizon Blue

    A scratch-resistant, flat sapphire crystal protects things up front. Out back, things are a bit more mundane. There is no case back art of which to speak, just a matte surface and a small logo. The signed crown, on the other hand, is nicely done: its size is proportionate to that of the case, its split shape is eye-catching, and its coin edge affords easy grip. 

    James & Muriel TimeKeeper side

    The 6 jewel, gold plated, Swiss made Ronda Slimtech 1069 inside is a serviceable unit and a reliable performer, unlikely to give its owner much trouble apart from a battery change every two years or so (helpfully telegraphed by an end-of-life indicator). Also, while I try not to be a movement snob, I admit that I prefer my quartz watches not exhibit a jumpy second hand tick. A 6 o’clock small seconds like this one goes far to mask that irritating telltale.

    James & Muriel TimeKeeper Horizon Blue wrist

    Now we can finally get to that dial. It has a field watch 12/24-hour layout, a 60-minute index, and baton hands. There is no lume, which is disappointing for a true field watch, but less so given the TimeKeeper’s more fashionable design brief. Of the three colors available, the Horizon Blue is the most striking. A luscious orange small seconds bursts from a matte field of deep blue - true blue, mind you, not navy. It is lovely. All other elements on that blue field are white except for the orange five-minute markers. It’s a striking, satisfying look. 

    James & Muriel TimeKeeper Horizon Blue

    James & Muriel offer the watch in white and black as well. The white dial displays the same attention to color as the blue, showing pops of orange, bright blue hands, and a gray 24-hour index among the otherwise black-on-white printing. The black dial is the most conventional and to my eye, the least interesting. There is nothing at all wrong with the white and gray on black, it’s just a little too close to what we might have expected. A dash of orange and blue would have been quite attractive and also afforded the three variants a unified brand identity. 

    James and Muriel plan to launch the watch on Kickstarter later this month. Pricing is not yet finalized, but you can expect to pay between $170-190, which is impulse-buy good. For more information and to sign up notice of those early-bird bargains, head over to JamesAndMuriel.co. ⬩

    James & Muriel TimeKeeper Horizon Blue strap



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