The Time Bum

Since 2013, Singapore's Gruppo Gamma Time Instruments has built a sound reputation on large, Italian-style dive watches. Now, they have taken a new tack by launching sister brand, Venturo and a new line of field watches.

Venturo hasn't abandoned its parent company's dive roots. The Field Watch #1, is fully dive-capable with 200m water resistance, a screw-down crown and case back, and bright SuperLuminova. The watch's stainless steel case is 42mm wide, 50mm long, and 14.5mm thick, which is smaller than Gruppo Gamma's usual fare, but hardly what one would call small. Inside, is a tough and reliable 24 jewel, 21.6k bph Seiko NH35A. this hacking and hand-winding automatic features a quiet, bi-directional rotor, Diashock protection, and a 41-hour power reserve.

The Field Watch #1 is offered in three variants - black dial with green lume, blue dial with blue lume and cream full-lume dial. The dials are sandwich style with a healthy application of Swiss SuperLuminova on the hands, and underneath the cut-away markers on black and blue dials. Of course, the full lume dial wears its glow on the top layer. All have double-domed, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystals.

In true field watch fashion, a rolled canvas strap is standard and available in regular (125/75mm) or long (130/80mm) lengths. Premium leather and tropic rubber straps are optional).

Perhaps my favorite of the three is the Singapore Watch Appreciation Group (SWAG) limited edition, of which only 88 will be produced. This variant features a case in gun metal finish, full-lume dial with Singapore's map coordinates printed in red, seconds hand tipped in red, and "1 of 88 pieces" inscribed on the case back. Very cool.

The Venturo is available for order now at venturowatches.com for $399 USD.

Images courtesy of Link and Tag

I've reviewed several of Nezumi Studios' watches, and I have always liked their work. The Stockholm-based company consistently turns out reasonably-priced, mid-sized MechaQuartz chronographs that manage to evoke a vintage look while still maintaining its own distinct brand identity. If I could levy any design criticism, it is that their watches tend to play it safe. While their typically muted color palettes show an expert's attention to detail and subtle variation, they have shied away from bold strokes -- but not anymore. They just sent me five prototypes that are ready to take Nezumi for a walk on the wild side.

Loews

First up, we've got the blue Lowes LQ1.501 and the limited edition (50 pieces) Nezumi Specials LQ1S.622 in black and gold.

Like the rest of the Loews line, these two use Seiko VK64 MechaQuartz movements that pair quartz units with mechanical chronograph modules. The stainless steel cases are 40mm wide, 47mm long, and 13mm from the caseback to the domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal. Bombé lugs are a welcome touch. It is water-resistant to 50m; sufficient for anything sort of prolonged submersion.

Typical of Nezumi, the stamped caseback features a superbly detailed logo rendered in high relief. My photograph shows the blue dial model as the gold caseback is not yet finalized, but it should be quite similar.

Both watches maintain the same handset and dial layout as the rest of the Loews line, including the printed index and tachymetre scale, applied polished baton markers, recessed 60-minute and 24-hour registers in contrasting colors, polished syringe hands, stout subdial indicators, and a spear-tipped sweep hand carrying a Nezumi “N” counterweight. As I have said before, it is a neatly balanced and thoughtfully detailed design.

When the lights go down, you will notice spots of SuperLuminova at each of the markers, but not for long as they are rather small and can't carry much of a glow. The hands carry on longer, but then again, these are not diver's or tool watches. Nighttime visibility on a chronograph is more of a bonus than a necessity.

The LQ1.501 has a magnificent aqua dial, offset by black subdials and an ivory tachymetre ring featuring orange markers in its black index. An orange sweep hand provides the final tough to knock this dial right out of the park. The case sides and the inner surfaces of the lugs are brushed withe the rest wears a bright polish. Paired with a 20mm British Tan leather rally strap and cream stitching, this blue beauty is lighthearted and lovely.

The Nezumi Specials LQ1S.622 takes things in a different direction. Racing chronographs invariably call to mind certain automotive icons. Depending on age and background, American gearheads might see black and gold and recall the 1965 Hertz Shelby GT350-H or maybe the 1977 Smokey and the Bandit Pontiac Trans Am with it's outrageous "screaming chicken" hood decal; however, for European racing fans, those colors will forever belong to the John Player Special Lotus Formula One care that wore the iconic livery from 1972-1986.

Given its gold case, Nezumi wisely went with a brushed finish for the entire case, which makes it appear more purposeful and considerably less blingy than a bright polish would have. A black rally strap with a matching 18mm buckle completes the package.

The Loews LQ1.501 is $344 for those of us outside the EU. The gold LQ1S.622 is $448.

Corbeau

Next up, we've got the Corbeau CQ1.402 (olive dial, brushed case) and CQ2.333 (black dial and black DLC case). The Corbeau is Nezumi's military watch, drawing its inspiration from 1960's pilot's and field watches.

The case is 40mm wide, 47mm long, and just barely 13mm thick measuring from the caseback to the domed sapphire crystal. On your wrist, it looks much thinner thanks to deep undercuts at the bezel and case back and a beveled upper edge. Water-resistance is 50m, which is on par with most pilot's and field watches, and likely more than adequate for most users. The lugs are twisted and in field watch fashion, drilled for easy spring bar release.

Inside is a Seiko VK63 MechaQuartz with subdials at 3 (24 hours), 6 (small seconds), and 9 (30 minutes), replacing the numbers in those positions. The remainder are mostly intact with only minimal clipping. All subdials are recessed and CD-textured with chunky, squared-off hands.

Again, it is the color that makes the new versions distinctive, most notably the white, blue, and orange sectors on the 30-minute register. This alone catches the eye; what you might not notice right away is that the color blocks also require a black hand, whereas those on the other two registers are white, matching the main syringe-shaped hands. I dig the way "Corbeau" wraps around the top of the small seconds subdial.

As you would expect from a field watch, there is a healthy dose of SuperLuminova all over this dial: hands, sweep hand tip, numbers, even the tiny numerals topping the 5's on the minute track. You won't find any on the bezel though. That aluminum insert is marked in silver with not so much as pip at top center. The bezel looks good and has good movement through its 120 clicks, but the absence of any form of illumination is a bit of a let-down, especially given how well it is used on the dial.

Buyers will get their watches on 20mm wide, 270mm long, laser-cut nylon NATOs -- black for the black dial, gray for the olive. These are quality straps with matte hardware and signed buckles. I wish the black-on-black CQ2.333 had matching black hardware, but if you are a stickler for that kind of thing, it is easily remedied.

The Corbeau is a dandy take on the classic mil-watch style and only $323 for those of us not paying EU VAT.

Voiture Pink Panther

At last, we come to my favorite, the Nezumi x Pink Panther Voiture Limited Edition VQ2S.701. This is a watch that should not exist. It was literally an April Fool's joke, photoshopped for Instagram laughs but the reaction was strong, so positive, that the folks at Nezumi got on the horn with MGM Studios and collaborated on an officially licensed product.

The case is the same as a standard Voiture, measuring 40mm across, 47mm long, and 11.5mm thick with a polished top and brushed sides. Of course, the lugs twist inward. It features a fixed tachymeter bezel and a domed sapphire crystal with an internal anti-reflective coating. Like the Corbeau, it runs a VK63, and like the rest of the line-up, water resistance is 50m. The case back on this prototype did not have the final artwork, but I've seen renderings, and it will be a special engraving unlike those on the other Nezumi watches.

A black bow-tie frames the off-white 3 and 9 o'clock subdials, the 6 o'clock small seconds is black with a pink indicator. The hands and hour markers are applied, polished, and treated with SuperLuminova as is the tip of the black sweep hand. The rest of the dial is matte pink. Not just any pink, mind you, but the correct and MGM-approved panther's pink. Please note that the tachymetre bezel insert is slightly off on this unit, but that is how prototypes go. Obviously, it will be correct in production.

The strap is the same "Rindt" 20mm black leather rally as on the Loews. It tapers to a signed 18mm buckle. I did not sample the packaging, but pictures on the Nezumi website show a proper vintage look with plenty of artwork.

Now, if you had asked me if I wanted a pink cartoon watch, I would have said, "No thanks. I am not an 8-year-old girl." But that was before I had the Nezumi x Pink Panther in hand. It is the kind of watch I didn't know I wanted. The color is bold, but honestly, no wilder than the pink shirts I wear with suits in the summer. Yes, it has a cartoon cat on it, but it is a line drawing about the size and shape of a typical logo (in fact, the cat replaces the usual Nezumi "N"). And it's not like it's the Nezumi x Hello Kitty. The Pink Panther was cool, both as the Saturday morning cartoon and as the opening credits star of the eponymous Peter Sellers's movies. I love it.

The Pink Panther sells for $448 for non-EU buyers. Only 100 will be produced.

All of the new Nezumis, Special, Limited, or otherwise, are available for pre-order at NezumiStudios.com. If you want them, especially the Loews LQ1S.622 or Voiture Pink Panther, I'd suggest you act fast. ⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

You probably aren’t familiar with York & Front Watch Company. Neither was I. That’s ok. It’s hard to keep track of all the different brands sometimes. But York & Front (named for a major intersection in downtown Toronto, whence the watch) might be one for you to keep an eye on. Their debut effort is The Burrard (named for a major thoroughfare in Vancouver, whence one of the company’s partners), a functional piece that leans toward the office or formal occasions but doesn’t feel out of place when taken out for the weekend. The genesis of The Burrard was a discussion between the owners of Y&F of what the “one watch” would look like. Not finding what they had in mind at a reasonable price point, they set about to create it. And they didn’t do a bad job, either.

The Burrard’s case is certainly its best feature. You may be looking at it, wondering what I mean, as there’s nothing about the 38mm case that particularly pops or stands out. But sometimes restraint is an art. The design language for the case is very reminiscent of vintage Seiko. In profile, it has a constant curve, forming an arc from lug to lug. At 12 mm thick, this case shape means that the watch rests nicely upon the natural curve of the wrist (or at least of my wrist). The lugs have similar chamfered angles as my Seiko Weekdater, or any number of old 1960s dress Seikos. The chamfers and fixed bezel share a polished finish, while the remainder of the case is brushed.

Drilled 20mm lugs allow for easy strap swaps, and while it may not be clear in the photos, a bit of wizardry was required to implement those lugs. The use of drilled lugs meant the lug holes sit closer to the case. The solution? Notches on the underside of the case at 6 and 12, to allow for necessary strap clearance. If you’ve ever struggled with short lugs and thick straps, you know this can be a real problem, and so addressing the issue is to be appreciated. The screw-down crown is adequate (and will be more so, as it’s being increased in width by 1mm for production) and is embossed with the York & Front ‘Y&F’ logo. While nothing unique, the finishing of the caseback had me quite pleased. A large iteration of the same logo found on the crown graces it, with polished letters on a textured background. There is no see-thru case back because you don’t need one. The sapphire crystal is “slightly boxed” (their words) and features AR coating—it’s unremarkable and does its job (my words).

Moving beyond the glass to the dial, I feel something is just barely missing. I don’t know with what certainty I can place it, though. The crisp whiteness of the painted dial gives an enamel effect without the cost, and the partially-serif font of the Arabic numerals are spot on. Around the outer edge is a minute track with 5-minute lume dots. The dial text, however, is where I believe the problem lays. I think I want the ‘Y&F’ logo to replace the ‘12’, and ‘Burrard’ to be just below where the current dial text is. Alternatively, having a large ‘Y&F’ at 12, with a slight drop below into the white of the dial center, and then ‘Burrard’ just above the 6. Either one I feel would be a good change. That said—and this comes to me as I type it—either of these options may make the dial too busy, and thus disrupt the cleanliness of the white dial.

The hands hybridize sword and syringe styles to nice effect, with the second hands red portion extending all the way to the outer edge of the dial. Two things: I don’t know how I feel about the length of the seconds hand. Losing the triangle on the end, I think, would improve it. Second, the lume here is not necessarily an issue (it shines as brightly as you’d expect), but against a stark white dial, the yellowish-green of the resting lume (can we make that a standard term?) creates a disruptive visual contrast. After some further consideration, I realized that what sometimes mitigates this contrast issue is that there are complementary lumed markers, creating balance, and making the lume stand out far less. I know this is the case on my Nodus Avalon, also with a white dial, and that I was never bothered by the lume issue. This is all to say, if I were buying the Burrard I’d certainly be going with the black dial.

The Burrard features the automatic Sellita SW200-1, with the date removed. Sellitas are industry standard at this point, and they’ve come a long way from the early days when they were rife with QC issues. Mine ran at 5s-7s/day, which is nothing to scoff at. And there’s not enough praise in the world to offer watch brands that take the extra effort to ensure that I don’t have to deal with a phantom date position when setting my watch.

The Burrard comes on a two-stitch black leather strap that pairs nicely with the watch and its dial. Given the cleanness of the watch and the dial, I would’ve liked something more than a two-stitch. Either a standard stitch or no visible stitching would have been a better match. The clasp—which usually doesn’t garner much attention from watchmakers or me—is a continuation of the excellent finishing on the case, with curvature and chamfering that is quite pleasant to the eye, and a sturdiness that is reassuring. I paired the Burrard with several straps and found them all to be fitting. So if you’re concerned, don’t be. Just realize that some of your more rugged or sport straps may look amiss.

As I understand, some of the initial response to The Burrard has been less than enthusiastic. While I won’t claim what I’ve written above is gushing, I think it’s fair to say it leans positive. I can’t say what the issue is that people are seeing, nor how they are making such resolute judgment without handling the watch. The Burrard isn’t breaking the mold, and it’s not bringing anything particularly new to the table. But I agree with the founder of York and Front that there does seem to be a gap in the affordable market for a versatile dress-leaning watch. And the watch fills that gap ably. My biggest gripe was with aspects of the dial. But as I returned to it to write this review, I found myself pleased, not noticing the nits I picked above. For $590, you’re getting a Swiss movement (with no phantom date position), a gorgeous case, and a decent dial (a bit better than decent if you go with the black dial). I don’t think this watch is for the over picky accumulator (like me, and maybe you). It’s for that person’s friend, who just wants a watch that can accompany him throughout the workweek. If that’s you or your friend—or if you just plain like the watch—you’ll be able to preorder it on the company’s website in the next few weeks, with delivery expected for late 2019. ⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

“Wow.” That’s what I said, out loud, when I first took the Akura Wayfarer out of its box. I‘ve been getting more and more watches for review, I see them all the time at get together, and as you’d expect, it’s all that I see on Instagram (no #dogsofinstagram for me). But an honest-to-goodness, taken-aback “Wow.” is not a common reaction. But here I sit writing this review, having two days ago sent the watch on to its next set of eyes, and I’m still feeling the wow.

A little background on this new brand, Akura Timepieces. While based in Dundee, Scotland, designer and brand owner Philipp Schönfisch pulled from his German roots for the brand’s name, which derives from the German “akkurat” (I won’t keep you guessing: it means “accurate”) He’s been fascinated by watches his entire life, starting with his grandfather’s Zenith and blossoming into his own watch problem 6 years ago when he bought a Steinhart Ocean Vintage Red. Then Lundis Bleus and Ochs and Junior. A natural progression. The Wayfarer is another part of that progression. He wanted a watch that offered the ruggedness of tool watches but with real design. He pulled from his own favorites: the Alpinist, the Royal Oak, the Ingenieur. He strove for something familiar at first glance, but almost entirely new upon closer inspection. The result? Wow.

Consider the 41mm diameter. Consider the 48.5mm lug-to-lug. Mull over the 316L steel. Ponder the 100m water resistance. Go ahead. But take a real moment to grasp the awesome power of a tool watch that’s only 10mm thick. One of the biggest issues with modern watches is that when they go bigger in one direction, they go bigger in most directions. Not the case (ha!) here, and we’re all better for it. The Wayfarer sits on the wrist as comfortably as your Livestrong bracelet that you stopped wearing after all that stuff about Lance Armstrong came out. The case shape itself is not much from the top—polished chamfers, brushed everything else, and unobtrusive 22mm lugs. But the side view shows an angularity and curvature that is at once rugged and refined, like James Bond with some tasteful stubble. The lugs themselves curve down, allowing for a better wrist hug (we all need a hug, sometimes), and the crowns are a design I’ve yet to see on a watch. They recall (to me) mill wheels, so we’ll call them mill wheel crowns. The screw-down 3 o’clock crown, which features the cardinal direction-inspired Akura logo, will adjust your date and time; the 4 o’clock crown, which features somewhat of the inverse of the logo, adjusts the internal rotating compass bezel. Flipping the watch over, you’ve got the obligatory text around a screw-down sapphire caseback, with the movement and custom rotor on full display. But now that it’s been mentioned, you’re probably stuck on the internal compass bezel. Let’s not tarry: time to discuss the dial.

The Akura’s dial could be described as complex, or busy (even Mr. Schönfisch used this word). But you shouldn’t. Complex implies a density that defies comprehension for some; busy suggests there is too much going on. Neither is the case here. The dial’s texture, depth, color, and patterns are synergistic, building to a greater whole. The watch comes in either grey, black, white, or red. Dial text is limited to the logo, brand, and model in white, as well as “Automatic” in teal. The main dial features sunken 5-minute markers that connect to an inner white ring. That white ring, which extends under the markers, is grooved with concentric circles for a near-hidden textured effect. The central dial features what I’d call a “digital wave” pattern. It’s subtle enough as to not distract and present enough as to catch the eye on occasion. At the periphery of the main dial is a teal seconds track with white brackets between the markers. Already we have three layers of dial, yet there’s no excess depth to be found. The handset is one of Mr. Schönfisch’s favorite features of the watch (how he chose from all the wow, I don’t know). I’ve not seen anything quite like them, which was precisely the aim of their design. Not having a reference point, I’ll call them Akura hands. And they’re the best I’ve seen. The hands, minute track, seconds brackets, and markers are all lumed with BGW9 SuperLuminova. That lume extends to the compass bezel (took my time getting there, didn’t I?). In the clearest cue to one of the watch’s main inspirations—the Seiko Alpinist—the Wayfarer features a fully-lumed, internal rotating compass bezel. If the compass directions weren’t enough, it also includes seconds/minutes marks, allowing for timing. The entire idea behind the Wayfarer, as suggested by its name, is adventure. Even if you don’t know how to use a compass, much less a compass bezel on a watch, the idea of direction, orienteering, and compasses in general is integral to getting lost, to true adventure.

One look at the bracelet and you’ll be thinking Royal Oak. Or once you google “Royal Oak bracelet,” you’ll be saying, “Ah yes.” The 22mm bracelet features solid, fitted end links and bracelet links that feature chamfers on each side. To make sizing a snap, the links feature single-end screws, plus a few micro adjustment holes on the clasp. Emblazoned on the clasp is the Akura name and logo, which will be downsized for production. The only issue I had with was with the clasp itself. It sits a bit high off the bracelet itself, and this creates a visual disruption on the “Akura” end, where it suddenly drops down to the rest of the bracelet. The bracelet itself is rather thin, but due to the release buttons, the clasp is closer to standard thickness. This creates quite a drop from clasp to links when closed. This is more visual and caused no issues for me during my time with it on the wrist. I suppose there’s the chance you’d catch it on something, but I didn’t suffer such tragedies. If there was a way to slope the clasp at the end down a bit, or just to choose a thinner clasp, I would. The watch also includes a two-stitch brown leather strap, which is totally adequate; the hardware is solid, so that’s always nice. Other than that, the grey dial model I had paired nicely with several straps (though my assortment of 22s is limited). You may run into trouble with the red dial, but that dial is so unique and exciting, I think swapping straps would be less necessary.

Pushing the hands around is the reliable Miyota 9015. You may be expecting Swiss here, and I don’t blame you, given the level of design and finishing. But using a higher-end movement likely would’ve pushed the price out of the realm of microbrand affordability. Certainly over $1k. As such, I think it was a good decision, considering the 9015 has more than proven itself in this segment. One treat that gave me another Wow Moment was the date wheel. Sure, it’s color-matched (Brand Owners: With very few exceptions, if you aren’t color-matching your date wheels, you aren’t trying hard enough). But you spend some time with the watch and the 31^st comes around and BOOM! Double color-match, as the number is matched to the teal on the minute track and dial.

So. Wow. Look back through that review. The clasp. That’s all I could find for criticism. Needless to say, I really enjoyed this watch. I liked it on the bracelet, on the Barton Elite, on NATO, and on leather. The dial is magic. The case and its finishing are top-notch. When a watch keeps your eyes on your wrist throughout the day, instead of on work (or the road), you know it’s a winner. The price? £599 (about $720 as I write). But here’s the thing that makes it even better: the already fully-funded Kickstarter campaign lets you get the watch at £399 (just $480). All the details and some very professional photos can be found on the brand’s website here. You can go buy yours—if you haven’t already—on the Kickstart campaign page here. Once you get it on your wrist, you may feel a need to thank me. No need: just pay it forward. ⬩

Today, Hemel Watches releases the latest iteration of their popular HFT20 Flight Series. Named for the Dutch airbase, the Brabant pairs the already awesome HF20 case with a Seiko VK61 movement and a new dial for a bold new look. Hemel provided this watch for review and as a giveaway prize for one lucky person at District Time, Sponsored by NTH Watches!

Like the others in the HFT20 series, the Brabant was inspired by jet age military chronographs, specifically the Breuget/Dodane Type XX. The 42mm wide, 49mm long brushed stainless steel case wears smaller than you might think, while still exhibiting an appropriately tool-watch-worthy heft, thanks in no small part to its 15mm thickness. Its brushed stainless steel case features a flat sapphire crystal, solid decorated caseback, and 100m water resistance. A large, signed, diamond-shaped crown sits between cross-hatched, piston-shaped buttons that respond with a firm, mechanical click.

Inside the sturdy case is the VK61 MechaQuartz. I’m a big fan these hybrid Seikos as they combine the convenience and accuracy of quartz with a 1/5th-second sweep and the crisp reset of a mechanical chronograph.

Right away, the VK61 announces its presence with vertically oriented subdials instead of the horizontal placement we saw on the rest of the line-up. This allows the Brabant to flaunt an oversized 9 and 3 that pop out against the smaller and more detailed marking of the registers, seconds index, 24-Hour chapter index, and even the dotted minute index on the bezel. There is a ton of character here, all very much in the style of a multifunctional cockpit instrument. The marking the more It also pushes the brand name and other text (“60-Minute Timer”) across the center of the dial. The 60-minute timer on top and small seconds at the bottom displace the 12 and6 but do not intrude into the other, smaller, numbers. Finally, it wouldn’t be a Hemel without a pop of orange, in this case, in the sweep hand and register needles.

The hands and numbers are filled with C3 SuperLuminova as are the engraved markers in the glossy ceramic bezel; however, as on the other HF20s, the orange triangle is regular old no-glow paint. Again, I understand the aesthetic, but it does limit the bezel’s utility in low light.

The Brabant’s strap is a traditional, 20mm riveted aviator in Cognac leather that exhibits a lovely pull-up effect when bent. I particularly like the twice-signed, square frame buckle.

In addition to the watch, Hemel also provided one of their new lambskin Luxury Watch Rolls. With three pockets, a sewn-in Velcro strap, and a buttery suede interior that can be used as a lens cloth, it is as useful as it is beautiful. I keep a stable of watch rolls and this may very well be one of the nicest I've seen. It sells for $69.99.

For as much as I liked the rest of the HFT20 line, The Hemel Brabant is my clear favorite. The watch sells for a very tempting $449.99, 5% of which will go to the Bob Woodruff Foundation. For more information or to place an order, see HemelWatches.com. ⬩

Why are there so few solar microbrand watches? I’m sure some of the relative scarcity can be chalked up to the anti-quartz bias in our hobby, but there is no shortage of conventional battery-driven quartz models out there, and I know many a hardened mechanical watch Luddite who has nonetheless succumbed to the charms of a Citizen Eco-Drive. I puzzled this mystery as I tested the Centric Instruments Lightwell Chronograph, a Seiko-powered solar field watch now up on Kickstarter.

Centric Instruments Lightwell Chronograph

There is a lot to be said for solar watches. Most obviously, they are rechargeable and their batteries last far longer than those in a conventional quartz movement. And just in case there is any confusion about how solar power works, I can assure you that your solar watch won’t stop every time the sun sets. A full charge will keep it running for six months so it won’t miss a beat even if you wear it exclusively outdoors through an arctic winter. The chronograph uses a Seiko VS75 with a 4:30 date, and 24-hour, 60-minute, and small seconds subdials. I tend to prefer my quartz watches with small seconds so that the jumping tick is less obvious. The VS75 chronograph has the added benefit of 1/5th-second sweep hand, which makes its electric operation less apparent.

The Lightwell Chronograph’s dial is rendered in a traditional military style with white printing on a matte black surface, baton hands, and an angled chapter index. It is handsome and legible even in the dark when the BGW9 SuperLuminova lights up the hands, indicators, and markers. Centric also offers the Chronograph (as well its 3-hand Field Watch Mark II sibling) in more distinctive gray and white dial variants.

Centric Instruments Lightwell Chronograph wrist shot

While I like the dial, it is the Lightwell’s substantial stainless steel case that really makes the watch for me. It is an eminently sensible 38.5mm wide, 46mm long, and 10mm thick from the case back to the nearly flush, flat sapphire crystal. This makes for an excellent fit on my 6.75” wrist but also presents as rather stout, even though one would normally consider 10mm on the slim side. Flat sides, a fixed and beveled bezel, and a comparatively small diameter dial all contribute to that perception. Piston-style chronograph buttons flank a stout, slightly bun-shaped crown. It is unsigned but deeply grooved and feels right when you screw it down. That last bit might be overkill on a watch rated for 100m, but it does grant a bit more confidence if you are taking the Lightwell underwater.

The case back is engraved with the company name and basic specifications but is otherwise unadorned. Drilled lugs are always a nice feature and with the spring perches set far to the tops, there is ample room for a variety of straps. The review sample came on a 20mm elastic “Marine Nationale” style NATO with flat brushed hardware and a signed buckle. I liked the comfort afforded by that fabric’s give as well as its low profile, even with the tail tucked back through the keepers. A stainless steel engineer bracelet with a flip-lock clasp is available as an option.

Centric Instruments Lightwell Chronograph case back

Which of course, brings us to the price. The Lightwell is currently in the waning hours of its Kickstarter campaign (ends Friday, August 16, 2019 at 2:59 PM EDT). Early birds can still get on board for as low as $225 (retail $300) for a Lightwell Chronograph on a nylon strap, or $240 on a bracelet. The three-hand Field Watch II is just $199 (retail $250). The project has already fully funded and I am not all surprised, as I think the practical and attractive Centric is well worth a look. Head over to their Kickstarter page for more. ⬩

Centric Instruments Lightwell Chronograph buckle

Centric Instruments Lightwell Chronograph lume

This sponsored post is a paid advertisement. All content was provided by the brand.

Kingsbury Watch Co. is now taking pre-orders on their latest creation - The MS2 Platoon. This automatic field watch is powered by a Miyota 82S5 movement, has a stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and a water resistance level of 100M. In addition to its great looks and the top end materials, the MS2 Platoon has 3 color options to choose from and is very reasonably priced - starting at just $169 USD during the pre-order period.

To ensure a sturdy build, we had to use stainless steel to forge the MS2 casing, which has been given a beautiful brushed finish. With a modest bezel around the dial, we thought a 41mm diameter case (measured w/o the crown) would be the perfect size. With a total height of 12MM, it feels and looks good on the wrist.

One thing about the MS2 that stands out is the crown. The diamond style crown sits off-center at the 4 o'clock position giving it a very unique look. The screw-down crown, which will be signed with the Kingsbury 'K' on production models, is the perfect size and easy to grip. Protecting the face of the watch, you'll find scratch-resistant sapphire glass. Coupled with the stainless steel case and backing, the combination gives this watch a water resistance of 10ATM (100M).

The dials of the MS2 Platoon have a vintage feel and are inspired by classic field watches from the WWII era. The matte dials have bold and luminous, numbered hour markings. The watch hands, which are also luminous, are thin batons with fine pointers. Printed on the outside track, you will find 24-hour markings for reading out military time.

To keep with tradition and to also maintain a clean look, you'll notice the absence of a date window. It is important to note that the MS2 uses a true no-date automatic movement, meaning there are no phantom crown positions! At the 6 o'clock position you will see a small, concave gauge, that counts down the seconds. The small second hand is colored in an accent color that matches the 1500, 1800, 2100 and 2400 hour marking on the outside dial.

To help keep the traditional look, each MS2 Platoon comes equipped with a matching canvas strap with stainless steel hardware. The 22mm wide straps are soft and comfortable to wear. Each strap comes equipped with quick-release tabs on the back that allow for easy removal/installation, no tools required! The brushed buckles will all come laser etched with the 'Kingsbury' brand name.

Each watch will be delivered in a premium, camo printed, foam-lined, slide-out watch box that has the Kingsbury logo printed in gold foil. Also available, is the special edition Dual Pack which allows you to choose any two watches that come in a limited edition, hand-made wooden crate display box - only 75 of these will be produced.

The Kingsbury MS2 Platoon automatic field watch serves as a great option for anyone in the market for an everyday, versatile automatic timepiece that is affordable and easy to wear. The brand’s Kickstarter campaign is now live, and pricing starts at just $169 USD.

You can view the campaign by visiting: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kingsburywatch/ms2-platoon-automatic-field-watch?ref=8j2nvz. ⬩

Check out John Keil of Watch Gauge as he tells you about two awesome events in the 2019 #DCWatchWeek: Microbrand University (October 10-11) and of course, District Time Sponsored by NTH Watches.

And now that I have squeezed as many links as humanly possible into one sentence, enjoy the video! ⬩

Back in February, Kingsbury Watch Co. launched a Kickstarter campaign for the Dark Water 300. Since then, they blew right past their funding goal and put the watch into production. They sent me a black dial sample for this hands-on review. This very watch will then be given away to a lucky attendee at District Time, Sponsored by NTH Watches (they have also contributed a Monarch II for our ever-expanding prize pool).

The Dark Water has all the qualities you would expect from a proper diver: high contrast dial, generous lume, sapphire crystal, signed screw-down crown, 120-click unidirectional bezel, and 300m water resistance. It also happens to be quite attractive, which came as a surprise to my dive-watch-weary wife and son. Usually, my eager unboxings are met with indifferent shrugs, but when they caught a glimpse of the Dark Water, they both wanted a closer look. Kingsbury has dressed this one up with just the right amount of brightwork to garner the right sort of attention.

With its angular crown guards and sheer sides, you might see some TAG Heuer Aquaracer in the case, while the dodecagonal bezel recalls the Andersmann Oceanmaster I and the wave textured dial borrows a bit from the Omega Seamaster Diver. This is not to say that the Dark Water is derivative (although let's face it, as a genre, dive watches are a pretty inbred bunch) but rather, it has drawn together several appealing elements and added its own spin. For me, the bezel is perhaps its most appealing aspect. Polished chamfers on each of the 12 sides add a pleasant glint, which complements that of the glossy ceramic bezel and applied markers. Pretty as it may be, you won't want to set that bezel if you don't have to as it gives you absolutely nothing to grip. To put it mildly, this limits the Dark Water's utility as a dive instrument.

At 43.5mm wide the watch is a bit large for a dress-diver, although that girth does help spread its 13mm thickness, making it appear somewhat thinner than it really is. On my 6.75" wrist this watch is strictly for weekend wear, but I can easily see a bigger guy carrying it off with a suit.

The handset is broad, long, and filled with lume. Their tips graze the markers, indeed the minute hand reaches right to the chapter index, just the way it should. I particularly like the polished second hand that is lumed at its tip and through the length of its oblong tail.

Kingsbury confined the wave texture to the center of the dial, leaving the markers on a smooth black ring. This was not a bad move as it differentiates the Dark Water from other wave-textured watches, and also improves its readability. In keeping with the dashes of flash elsewhere on the watch, polished frames surround the 3 o'clock day and date window. I often call for black dates on dark dials, but in this case, the white disk matches the white bar markers, maintaining symmetry in a way a black one could not.

On the flip side, the polished case back bears an engraving of a tentacle rising from the sea, holding a trident - just the way I'd imagine our octopus overlords might greet us. Behind it is a tried and true Seiko NH36, a 24-jewel, 21.6k BPH automatic that hacks and hand winds. It has a 40-hour power reserve, Diashock protection, and should provide years of trouble-free service.

Kingsbury Dark Water 300 black case back

Kingsbury offers a range of straps and bracelets to fit the Dark Water, but the standard 22mm silicone strap will suit most people just fine. Soft, smooth, and comfortable it has sipes on the underside and a 20mm signed buckle. I wore it in the next-to-last of 9 adjustment holes, so I'd say it would fit just about anybody.

I really like what Kingsbury has done with Dark Water. It is a handsome, capable tool watch and best of all, it's eminently affordable - just $229.99 at KingsburyWatch.com. For that price, I could forgive the all-show-and-no-go-bezel and simply enjoy that dapper watch that looks far more expensive than it really is. ⬩

After two successful and very modern watch designs, Pancor has gone retro with the 1960's-inspired P03 diver. I thought the P01 chronograph was pretty slick, and the P02 charmed me enough that I bought one (pistachio dial!), but the P03 may just be the best yet. It is clean, sensible, Seiko-powered automatic that radiates quality and charm -- for only $259 at the Kickstarter early bird price. For this review, Pancor let me try all four prototypes: blue, green, and black dials in brushed stainless steel cases, and a black dial in a black PVD case.

The P03 is designed to be a legitimate dive watch. It is rated for 300m water resistance, has a screw-down crown and case back, bright C3 or BWG9 SuperLuminova, a 120-click uniderectional bezel, domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal, and a vintage-style "tropic" rubber strap. Unlike many modern dive watches, it is not huge. The P03's case is just 39mm wide, 47mm long, and 13mm thick, topped with a 40mm bezel, creating classic proportions that suit my 6.75" wrist just fine, and in fact, given the Pancor's understated good looks, allowed me to suit it up with a proper suit for the office.

Both previous Pancors excelled in their attention to detail, and the P03 does not disappoint. Where many divers sport oversized crowns with aggressive, gear-like teeth, the P03's is modest, sporting a polished, beveled, signed head, a fine coin edge, and a significant undercut that further minimizes its bulk. The bezel's infinitesimal overhang does less to make it appear larger than to make the sheer-sided case appear smaller. It also aids grip as it is polished and wears a similarly delicate coin edge as the crown. It looks great, but it is easy to slip if you don't have a firm hold. The insert is glossy ceramic, its index engraved in a lightweight typeface. These meticulously crafted design elements lend the P03 an air of refinement not often found in a dive watch.

Lest you think the P03 is too dainty for a diver, the dial will disabuse you of that notion. The dots and rounded bars are tall, polished, and full of lume. I rather like the pop of these slightly overstuffed markers in a watch otherwise full of finely rendered details. Long pencil hands and a lollipop second hand completes the set. Lume is excellent - everything glows long and strong, including the bezel. I do love a properly lumed bezel!

All variants use beige C3 except the blue dial, which has white BGW9. The green dial caught my eye right away. The blue is perfectly handsome, and it is hard to go wrong with matte black, but the green is a deep, rich color of the British Racing variety. It is an uncommon choice for a diver and looks rather sporty with its vintage color lume.

If there is one area where watch designers let me down, it is the text on the dial. It is too tempting to write too much, to use a featureless typeface, or both. Pancor has indeed packed three lines on the bottom in addition to the brand name but has done so in a light, broad, modern font that is in keeping with the watch's overall character. Very well done.

On the backside, the polished lid bears an engraved logo surrounded by nautical elements. Inside is a Seiko NH38, a sibling to the ever-popular NH35. The 24-jewel, 21.6l bph automatic shares the same design as the 35, but loses the date function, so there is no phantom stop in the crown and no click of an unseen date change. To be honest, such things never bothered me, but I know they drive other watch nerds up a wall. The use of the NH38 is yet another thoughtful touch.

Pancor ships the P03's with two 20mm straps. The aforementioned black rubber tropic is the natural choice for those who will use their dive watch for its intended purpose. It looks spot-on for this retro design and is, of course, most practical for any sort of wet activity. When you wear your divers on dry land, you might try one of the distressed and minimally stitched leather options (blown or black). Both terminate in a signed, 18mm buckle. As mentioned above, the P03, while not at all a dress diver, actually dresses up quite nicely and would carry off a more tailored strap if you have a coat and tie job like the Bum.

I absolutely love the P03. It ticks all the right boxes for me in terms of size, style, and practicality. After dinner the other night, my wife saw me peering intently at my wrist and asked what I was looking at. "I was just admiring the designer's choice of such a fine coin edge on the bezel and noticing how it plays off the similar edge on the crown," I said.

"You could have just said, 'my watch'" she replied.

Yeah, I could have, but that wouldn't have done the P03 justice.

If you feel as I do, I'd suggest you head over to PancorWatch.com and sign up for P03 alerts. You will be alerted when the Kickstarter campaign launches on September 19, and you will also get a code for 20€ (about $22 USD) off. ⬩

Add caption

I'm a fan of Collins Watch Company and the way that founder Jimmy Collins has imparted his own unique spin on traditional tool watch designs. His latest is the SONAR. The first Collins dive watch, the SONAR was inspired by the sound-based technology that has kept submarines on course for over 100 years. The watch features 300-meter water resistance, sapphire crystal, refined brushed and polished finishes, and a Swiss-made Sellita SW200 movement. True to the Collins aesthetic, it is a mid-sized watch (39.5mm wide and just 12mm thick).

So far, I have only seen the renders, but it looks like a winner. The stylized Collins numerals reappear on the SONAR's bezel. The 12 o'clock arrow first seen on the Bronson is back as well. I particularly dig the keyhole looking markers at 3, 6, and 9.

Six models will be released: orange, blue, green, or yellow dials with engraved steel bezels, or black and full-lume white dials with lumed black bezels. All look cool, but that full-lume promises to be spectacular. Initial production will be limited to just 20 units of each variant so you would be well advised to jump on this soon. Early birds can pre-order the SONAR for $550 with a $150 refundable deposit at the CollinsWatch.com web store. The balance will be due in January 2020. After the pre-order period, full retail will be $750.

Also, visit Collins Watches and a slew of other brands at District Time Sponsored by NTH Watches, October 12-13, 2019, District Architecture Center, 421 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC.

Specifications:

Movement: Sellita SW200 Swiss-made Automatic Movement - Regulated in six positions

Crystal: Raised flat sapphire

Water Resistance: 30ATM (300M)

Lume: Super-LumiNova C1 on dial and bezel triangle / Blue-glow C3 on bezel numerals and indices

Dial: White with applied polished indices

Hands: Diamond-cut polished steel

Case: 316L Stainless Steel

Case Finishing: Brushed and polished surfaces

Bezel: 120-click unidirectional rotating bezel

Crown: Screw-down / Polished and decorated with the Collins “C”

Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter / 47.5mm Lug-to-Lug / 12mm Thickness / 20mm Lugs

Case Back: Engraved screw-down (featuring limited-edition print for the first 20 units of each variant)

Bracelet: Collins custom brushed and polished 316L stainless steel bracelet / 20mm tapering to 18mm

Warranty: 1 Year

Return Policy: 30 Day

Assembled, tested, and tuned in the USA

Ah, memories of Makara... I announced their first watch, the Octopus, in my second Time Bum blog post. I reviewed their second, the Sea Turtle in 2015. Now, they have launched their third, the Sea Serpent, on Kickstarter and it has blown well past its funding goal.

Like the Makaras before it, the Sea Serpent has an aggressive and angular 42mm case. While similar at a glance to the shape of the Sea Turtle, the Sea Serpent is all-new, sporting a neatly integrated 4 o'clock crown and a 12-sided bezel. It is offered in brushed stainless steel, PVD black, or CuSn8 bronze. Notwithstanding its aquatic branding, the watch is only rated to 100m water resistance, which is more than enough for any tool watch, but on the low side for a dedicated diver. Inside is a Miyota 82S0 automatic, visible through the exhibition case back. Up front, is a huge, double-domed sapphire crystal.

Large framed markers distinguish the Sea Serpent's face, along with a bold, semi-skeletonized handset consisting of a massive arrowhead hour hand, orange-tipped minute hand, and a retro-style paddle second hand. The overall look is pretty badass, a trait they obviously are trying to drive home with the knuckle duster buckle. You don't see that every day. It may not be for everyone, but I like that they have done something a little crazy instead of the usual Pre-V clone.

The Makara Sea Serpent can still be had for as little as $249 in steel or black, or $299 for bronze. Check them out now on Kickstarter or MakaraWatches.com.

Review and photos by Mike Razak

Astor+Banks needs little introduction. The Chicago company—named for the city intersection where it all began—has been in the game since 2012, having released three distinct models since then (the Pilomatic, the AB1405/AB Classico, and the Chrono) All three were well designed and well-received, but are sadly no longer available. Gladly, it's about to put out a new offering: a go anywhere, do anything timekeeper inspired by 1970s dive watches, dubbed the Sea Ranger.

My first thought when I opened the Sea Ranger was that it seemed a bit thick. After further examination, this appeared to be a case construction and visual issue. The deep caseback, thin midcase, and tall bezel add up to 14mm, which is on the thicker side of things. But what really does it is the visual (not actual) proportions of the watch. The case itself is an asymmetrical 40mm, which isn’t too shabby. But the dark bezel on the model I received dominates the visual field and is only 38mm. 14mm thick on a 38mm watch is a bit of a doozy. Hence the perceived thickness. All that said, the watch wears quite well, and I never found the watch too thick on the wrist.

The case features drilled lugs for easy strap changes, a very workable screw-down crown that features the A+B logo, and an even more workable, lumed 12-hour bezel (an advantage to the thinner midcase is that it allows for an easy-to-use bezel). And that 14mm case yields 300m of water resistance. I think 200m (or even 150m) would have been sufficient and allowed for a thinner case, which would have been a welcome tradeoff. Two minor features I liked are the stylized "A" logo at 12 on the bezel and the simple “SEA RANGER” on the caseback; case back art is rarely necessary and even more rarely done well.

The domed sapphire crystal gives way to a very well done, inky black dial (it's also available in white and blue). At the periphery is a 1/5 seconds track, and moving in, we find baton markers lumed with BGW9 Super-LumiNova. At 3, 6, 9, and 12, just inside the markers are small red hashes, matching the “Sea Ranger” dial text at 6. Then: STEP DOWN! The dial sinks to provide for a 24-hour military time track, then rises back up for the center dial, wherein we find the standard dial text with the brand, model, and depth and automatic indications. I hadn’t seen a watch with depth and movement type on the same line, but the Sea Ranger’s “30ATM / / Automatic” seems to work. The handset is clean and unfussy and fits well with the rest of the dial. The red second hand is a great touch and features a sliver of lume to help you night owls time your cat’s breathing. As you can see from the lume shot below, there are apparently 3 colors of lume: C3, BGW9, and the other one (?). While this was apparently done in aid of distinguishing the minute hand from the second hand, I’d describe it more as a fun but unnecessary quirk of the Sea Ranger. All in all, it’s a well-executed dial with great depth and balance.

The Sea Ranger runs on the automatic Sellita SW200, which has become standard fare with higher-end microbrands. This is Sellita’s clone of the ETA 2824 and has 26 jewels, a 38-hour power reserve, and a date function. While the Sea Ranger has no date display, the date mechanism remains in the movement, meaning the crown has a dead position when pulled out. I know there are solutions to this issue in this particular movement, and while I can’t speak to A+B’s reasoning here, I always prefer to lose the phantom click, especially on a watch at the Sea Ranger’s price point.

Coming standard is a short-link H-link bracelet with solid 20mm end links and a ratcheting clasp. The bracelet is hefty and of good construction, and the ratchet allows for quick sizing. If you need to shorten it up a bit, they’ve gone with single-end screws, making removing a link as easy as possible. While the clasp on the review piece was quite thick, I’ve been informed that the production models will have a thinner version. As I mentioned, the watch features drilled lugs, which are ideal for removing straps and bracelets but do little to aid in installation. The Sea Ranger takes them for granted and comes with Rolex-style [Read: impossible] spring bars. These bars have no flanges and, along with the shorter end links, make for a bit of a challenge when reinstalling the bracelet. Otherwise, I had little issue finding good straps to pair with the watch; I imagine the blue dial may be a bit more challenging, and the all-black near impossible.

The Sea Ranger really grew on me. The primary issues I had were the phantom date position and the spring bars that come with the watch; at a retail price of $850, I expect better. Still, I was left with a positive feeling about the watch. If you like what you see, and aren’t bothered by the crown issue or the spring bars (which can likely be swapped), the Kickstarter campaign is already live, and $650 will get you your choice of models (black, blue, or polar white dial, or the all-black ‘S’) plus a seat belt NATO strap, rubber strap, and a watch tool. The watch is well made, and the dial is a winner, so at the preorder price, it's a pretty good deal. ⬩

An innovator in the Swiss watch industry, Christopher Ward continues to delight and inspire with the launch of its 100-piece C60 Apex Limited Edition dive watch. Five years on from the initial release of Calibre SH21, CW’s in-house movement complete with 120-hour power reserve, the intricate craftsmanship and engineering revealed through the C60 Apex Limited Edition’s skeletonized front and back represents the pinnacle of the brand’s horological prowess today.

Christopher Ward C60 Apex Limited Edition

The first and only commercially viable movement created by a British watch brand in 50 years, Calibre SH21’s twin-barrel construction providing 120 hours of timekeeping when fully wound. Every SH21 has also been certified by COSC, meaning not only a timing tolerance of just -4/+6 seconds per day, but each sits within the top 6% of all Swiss-made watches for accuracy.

Mike France, CEO and Co-founder of Christopher Ward, comments, “With the first of the Apex series, the C7, we introduced a semi-skeletonized architecture to expose the beauty and technical expertise of Calibre SH21. The C60 Apex continues and expands this approach and is the first Christopher Ward dive watch with an exhibition caseback.”

Christopher Ward C60 Apex Limited Edition case back

Water-resistant to 300m even with the presence of an exhibition caseback, Christopher Ward teamed up with Swiss skeleton watch specialists Armin Strom to help showcase as much of Calibre SH21 as possible. Most prominent is a hollowed-out aluminum and tungsten rotor, finished in orange, along with a skeletonized bridge that reveals the engineering at work inside. The same approach has been applied to the C60 Apex’s front: SH21’s exposed hour wheel has received a circular brushed finish, with other sections cutaway for optimum effect. But it’s the power reserve indicator residing at nine o’clock that will grab the wearer’s attention most; an orange indicator hand rests upon a 3D bridge, with polished screws securing it against a ring around the edge of the dial. Sporting a powerful navy blue, orange and steel color palette, the C60 Apex is a blend of color, texture, and depth.

Christopher Ward C60 Apex Limited Edition macro

Located on the side of its sleek and sophisticated ‘light-catcher’ case, a helium release valve reinforces the C60 Apex as a diving tool to be relied upon. X1 GL C1 Super-LumiNova® – the best possible lume Christopher Ward could source – has then been applied to the C60 Apex’s multi-faceted hands and indexes, along with the markings and numerals found on its unidirectional ZrO² ceramic countdown bezel, allowing it to be read in the darkest of seas.

Christopher Ward C60 Apex Limited Edition side

Reflecting the power of the Anglo-Swiss partnership that now sits at the heart of Christopher Ward, the C60 Apex Limited Edition is a technical colossus, representing the art of horology in its purest form.

Price: £3,495 ($3,990)

Technical

Diameter: 42mm

Height: 16.35mm

Weight: 99gr

Calibre: Calibre SH21 - automatic with power reserve complication and date

Case: 316L stainless steel

Water resistance: 30 ATM (300 meters)

Frequency: 28,800 per hour

Timing tolerance: -4/+6 seconds per day

Dial color: Blue

Lume: Super-LumiNova® Grade X1 GL C1

Strap width: 22mm

Lug to Lug: 54mm

Features

Limited Edition of 100 pieces

Swiss made

35 jewel self-winding chronometer with power reserve complication

120-hour power reserve

Hour, minute, central seconds, date

Skeletonised bridge and decorated barrels, with anodized aluminum and tungsten rotor

Brushed and polished marine-grade stainless steel case

Unidirectional zirconia ceramic bezel

Integrated automatic helium release valve

Anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal

Semi-open dial with circular brushed Ruthenium ring, engraved Ruthenium plate and orange anodized aluminum bridge

Beveled blue outer ring with white minute markers

Blue power reserve indicator ring with orange numerals and circular brushed rhodium outer ring

Altimeter-inspired date wheel

Super-LumiNova Grade® X1 GL C1 hands, indexes and bezel

Top-brushed indexes with diamond polished facets

Sandblasted and polished hands

Signature Trident counterbalance on the second hand

Exhibition backplate with unique engraved serial number.

Christopher Ward C60 Apex Limited Edition wrist shot

Christopher Ward C60 Apex Limited Edition lume

It has been a long time since I reviewed a Raketa. All the way back in October 2013, I told you all about my Soviet-vintage "Big Zero," a watch I picked up on eBay for under $100 shipped, and which still own and love. Today, I have a brand spanking new Raketa Russian Code, a 300 piece limited edition with an automatic movement, sapphire crystal, and a vastly different price tag of €1400 ($1554 US). It is also a preview of what you can see on the Raketa display at the upcoming District Time show.

Many of the modern Raketa designs owe much to old Big Zero, but the Russian Code I borrowed for this review reminds me of the Soviet commemorative dials popular in the 1960s and '70s, featuring as it does an illustration of a spinning globe in a field of gold constellations. Tall and radically stylized numbers appear equally retro. In a nod to the iconic Raketas, 12 o'clock is once again represented by zero. Its attractive sword hands are exceedingly long and thin, really more dagger-like. The second hand has an oversized blue circle near the tip, so it looks almost like a satellite circling that globe. All hands are filled with SuperLuminova, but the glow fades quickly.

You will notice that the numbers track backward and this is my one massive gripe with the Russian Code, it runs counter-clockwise. Now, bear in mind, this is the whole point of the watch. Raketa's marketing copy notes that is the direction in which the earth spins and that it is in fact, the "code" for which the watch is named. I have to tell you right here that I don't understand the appeal of backward watches, although it is interesting to note that Raketa created the 2165R (reverse) by altering the construction of the barrel and escapement on their caliber 2165 automatic movement so the direction is reversed right at the beginning of the gear train. Like all Raketa movements, it was designed and built in-house. It has 24 jewels, an 18k bph vibration rate, a bi-directional rotor, and a 40-hour power reserve.

Through the porthole exhibition window out back, you can catch a glimpse of the caliber 2165R Avtomat movement and its Geneva striped and engraved rotor. You will find the same movement (running clockwise) in all the 12-hour watches across the Raketa range. If, like me, counter-clockwise is not your thing, keep reading, because in every other aspect, the Russian Code really is a very cool timepiece with elements that make me want to buy a different Raketa - jut one that can be read without decoding.

I'll start with the case. It measures 40.5mm wide and 12mm thick, but the watch is both smaller and larger than these figures imply. I say smaller because the brushed and polished gold case cuts a slimmer profile than you might think. Much of that 13mm height is taken up by an impressively large, polished caseback that steeply reduces to much smaller diameter surface, making the far slimmer 7mm thick central section (from the case back lip to the bezel) the most visually prominent feature. At just 45mm long, the Russian Code sits quite comfortably on my 6.75" wrist.

Now, I also said the watch was larger than you might think, and that is all in the crystal. A towering sapphire dome with a beveled edge increases the watch's overall thickness to a massive 17mm. I didn't realize its size at first, and then I did an almost comical double-take. I love a tall crystal, and this one is beautiful. Its shape works in tandem with the deep case back to give the watch a unique profile. As wild as it may look, this crazy lens imparts no distortion.

While we are talking about eye-catching features, the red-headed crown certainly qualifies. It is a tasty detail, and its knurled edge is surprisingly industrial for this otherwise ornamental watch. It is a push-pull unit. Water resistance is 50m; short of true sports or tool watch specs but more than sufficient for daily wear.

I have poked fun at Russian watch straps in the past, and frankly, for good reason. Many are awful. The one on the Russian Code is not. The 22mm leather strap is a rich glossy brown, scored diagonally, finished in white stitching, and tapering to a 20mm signed buckle. It is an attractive and comfortable strap that fits the watch's dressy bearing.

All around, I was pleased to see what Raketa has to offer. The Russian Code is a sharp watch with some attractive features and an in-house movement. Granted, the counter-clockwise set up would not be my choice, but there are plenty more in their catalog from which to choose. The same case and dome is shared with other models such as the Copernicus, Avant Garde, and the very similarly styled Premier, all of which use the clockwise 2165 movement.

If you would like to buy a Russian Code or any of the other Raketa offerings, check out Raketa.com and be sure to stop by at District Time Sponsored by NTH Watches, October 12-13, 2019, at the District Architecture Center, 421 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC. ⬩

August 29, 2019 Update!

New brands added, giveaway prizes listed, watchmaking classes selling out fast! Here is all the info you need to know...

Time Bum and Bill from McDowell Time are proud to announce our fourth annual watch event, District Time Sponsored by NTH Watches. Join us October 12-13, 2019 at the District Architecture Center, 427 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC. We will be open to the public from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM both days.

District Time has come a long way since our very first show in the back of a restaurant. Now we have a fabulous venue in downtown DC, loads of vendors, and some new collaborations to make this our best show ever. If you want to learn more about how and why we do this, read the interview Bill and I did with AboutTime here, and see my interview with Doc's House Calls on Watch With Us Media here. But in the meantime, read on...

Show Participants

A watch show is nothing without watches, so we are bringing as much variety as we can. This list is still growing, but as of today, the following watches and vendors will be represented at the show.

About Time Magazine - Media Partner
Ardor & Forge
Art Watch Frame
Attra
Aquadive
AVeritas
Bausele
Caliper
Collins
DC Vintage Watches
EMG
Fine Time Solutions will show their American made movements and the watches that use them including:

Bertucci
Brillier
Minuteman

Gavox
Hager
Havaan Tuvali
Hemel
HKED
Isofrane
Kingsbury
Lesablier
LIC Watch Straps
Little Treasury Jewelers, authorized dealers for:

Alexander Shorokhoff
Ball
Bremont
Orion
Seiko Prospex, Presage, and Grand Seiko
Zodiac

McDowell Time
Nodus
Nove
NTH
Ocean Crawler
Origin
Roebuck
Sakab
Sartory-Billard
Siduna
Minase
Raketa
Traska
Tsao Baltimore
Vario
Ventus
Visitor
Watcha - Official Photographer
Watch Gauge will bring a selection of watches from:

Balticus
BOLDR
Casio G-Shock
DiRenzo
Gruppo Gamma
Martenero
Straton

Zelos

Check back, because we will add even more as we get closer to the date.

Remember, most of the watches at the show are otherwise only available online, so take advantage of this a rare opportunity check them out in person, meet the brand owners and designers, shop the amazing selection, and enter to win one of our awesome giveaways!

This year, we will be raffling off watches, straps, and accessories from:

Art Watch Frame,
DC Vintage Watches,
Hemel,
Isofrane,
Kingsbury,
McDowell Time,
Nove,
NTH,
Vario, and
WatchGauge.

As always, the show is free and open to the public but we hope you also take advantage of the other opportunities that make up our #DCWatchWeek.

Watchmaking 101-103

The Horological Society of New York will bring their award-winning, 4-hour watchmaking class to the event. This hands-on class will teach you the inner workings of a mechanical movement. It is a must for anyone who loves watches. There are two time slots on Saturday and one on Sunday so whichever you choose, there will still be plenty of time to enjoy the show too. [Update 8/29/19: Saturday morning is sold out! Limited spaces remaining Saturday pm and Sunday.] The class costs $500 and seats are limited so reserve your place now! Sign up here.

HSNY McDowell

Microbrand University

Aspiring watch brand owners will want to check out Microbrand University on October 10 and 11. In the seminar, Chris Vail of NTH Watches, John Tooher of Head Room, John Keil of Watch Gauge, and Josh Irons of River Avenue Digital will share their tips for effective business strategy, branding, and marketing in the particular niche of microbrand watches. The two-day seminar is $2000, but you can get a $500 discount if you sign up by July 9, 2019. For more information and registration visit MicrobrandU.com.

Stay the Night!

Finally, if you are traveling from out of the area, be sure to take advantage of our $199/night group rate at the nearby Fairfield Inn, offered through Janis Trading Company. You can book your room here.

We can’t wait to see you there! ⬩

When you ogle a new watch, and The Time Bum himself offers to let you review it, you don’t say no. Such was the case with the Merlin Watches Sea Legend. I’d seen it on The Time Bum feed and been quite taken by the layered dial. Merlin Watches is a new watch brand out of Singapore (surprise!). Founded by three self-professed watch nerds who wanted to—and I quote—“create magic on the wrist” (hence the Arthurian name), the brand’s first offering is a vintage-styled diver. (How three separate people were able to agree on one design and have it end up this good, I’ll never know: I can’t even get two other people to agree on where to go to dinner.) The watch—and especially the “Golden Boy” iteration I reviewed--answers that age-old question: “What happens when you combine Eterna KonTiki dial markers, Rolex 6205 bezel, and Christopher Ward lugs, tweak it all a bit, and add a gorgeous dial and vintage dimensions?” It’s the Sea Legend: it’s unique, and it’s a pleasure on the wrist.

(If that’s enough for you to decide, you can just go buy the watch now on Kickstarter. But I did spend a bit of time on this review, so at least scroll through and look at the rest of pictures).

The Sea Legend is full of vintage cues without being derivative at all. It starts with the satin-finish 39mm case, that’s 13.5mm thick. It’s a perfect size for a vintage-inspired watch and sits well on the wrist. It features a more-than-adequate 200m water resistance, not that you’ll ever need it. But if you do, it also has a screw-down crown to keep things ultra-tight (my review piece did not have the screw-down crown, so I can’t speak to how easily or smoothly it operates). In profile, the case has a gentle curvature that allows it to rest on any wrist, and that curve is accentuated by a well-executed polished chamfer that runs the length of each side. The 20mm lugs remind me of Christopher Ward’s lugs, they have flat bottoms but rise obliquely to the case. I’m sure there are other examples of this, but CW is what pops to mind, and I’ve always liked the look of this lug style. The pièce de résistance(along with the dial), is the sapphire dive bezel, which perfectly mimics the bakelite bezels of olden times (without all the cracking). With gold numerals and markers, and a red 12 o’clock arrow, it draws on myriad vintage divers (primarily the Rolex 6205). The prototype I received was not functioning and had some alignment issues with the markers, which were not lumed, as is advertised—all of these will be resolved in production, and if the rest of the watch is any indication, it will be a snap to use. Leaving off tick marks that are common on the first 10-15 minutes was a great choice here, as it keeps the bezel simple and maintains overall aesthetic balance. The screw-down caseback features a sapphire display crystal, so you can ogle the custom rotor when the nights get lonely. I do wish the case was very slightly thinner, but this isn’t a dealbreaker; the case is near perfect and incorporates well both vintage and modern designs.

How do you follow a phenomenal case? An exceptional dial, of course! While the resemblance to the Eterna KonTIki is coincidental, it’s a bit hard to ignore. Looking straight through the boxed sapphire crystal, the triangle markers with numerals printed at the cardinals were the first things to catch my eye on the dial. While several friends I showed this watch to didn’t care much for having numerals inside the markers, I was unmoved either way: they are there, and that’s that. I think the markers themselves, with the subtle gold border are a treat and not a style we see a lot nowadays. The markers sit on a deep burgundy disc that has a very subtle sheen, allowing to catch the light and really pop (which is no small task for a color that dark. Under that disc is the base dial, in a matte black, with outer minute track and the interior of the dial with well-balanced dial text. Syringe hands with the same color scheme complete the lumed portions of the dial—all coated generously with C3 Super-LumiNova, which shines bright, as ever. This dial works for me; while I’m a sucker for texture and pops of color, the subdued but unique hues and exceptional depth achieve something special here. And if you think the Golden Boy model is awesome, your mind is going to fully explode when you see the other options—Nacre, Tsunami, Meteorite, and Dark Wizard. Each has its own special something, so no one will be left out.

The Sea Legend is driven by the Sellita SW200. It’s Swiss, and if you haven’t heard about this movement at this point, Google is your friend. It's common and it’s very easy to repair. There’s little more you need to know (though there is a phantom click, due to the date function without an actual display). And if you want to see it up close, The Sea Legend has a custom Merlin rotor and a sapphire caseback for viewing parties! The caseback also has a cute little shark and some French words that I’ve been told mean “Stainless Steel.” I’ll let you suss out what the case itself is made of.

Complimenting the delightful case is a beads of rice bracelet with fitted end links that are integrated into the rest of the bracelet. That means no spending 5 minutes in your watch box trying to find them in the morning. The bracelet goes on and off easily and fits snugly, as expected; the push-button deployant clasp is flush to the links, which means no extra bulk. Full disclosure: I really enjoyed the bracelet. I had a moment to myself when I put it on, just basking in its glory. It won’t come standard, but I think the optional $80 add-on during the Kickstarter campaign will be well worth it for any backer. The standard strap will be black sailcloth which seems to be of decent quality, though I don’t have much experience with these strap types. It’s a strap, it was easy to clasp, and it held the watch on, so it checks all my boxes. If that weren’t enough, backers will also have the option of a leather strap and/or an olive canvas strap (the latter of which I tried and was quite nice. AS far as pairing your own straps, you’ll probably be confined to “leaf colors.” Greens, browns, reds, etc. As you can tell, they work well. You can always go crazy and just throw it on whatever, though. I won’t judge you (publicly).

What’s left to say? Definitely look at the site and the campaign page to get a look at all the options because each one is unique. I’m particularly fond, too, of the Nacre, with its mother of pearl base dial. The boys at Merlin have done an excellent job on creating a vintage-style diver with four incredible looks. If you’re interested (you should at least be interested), the Kickstarter campaign is live now, and Super Early Bird pricing starts at $329, which is rather insane considering the $745 full retail price. Go get yourself a nice watch. You deserve it.⬩

Maen Watches is back. This time, the brand is releasing its first chronograph, the Skymaster. We reviewed the brand’s first automatic offering, the Maen Hudson 38 diver, early last year. That watch was well received, with over 700 backers bringing funding Kickstarter campaign to over 600% of its initial goal. The Skymaster is a natural progression for a brand that started out offering solid but generic quartz dress watches and now seeks to establish itself in the watch community with more robust, better designed timepieces. While this is just the basics, rest assured that we’ll have a full review soon after the campaign starts!

Presented as a tribute to the Dutch pioneering mentality and, more specifically, KLM’s first flight between Amsterdam and New York City, the Maen Skymaster continues the brands vintage-inspired trend that it started with the Hudson. The Skymaster comes in a 38mmx12.9mm case reminiscent of classic Heuer Carreras and features a 12-hour bezel for tracking a second time zone (appropriate given the inspiration). Furthering the vintage feel is a box-domed hesalite crystal. Curiously, they’ve decided to offer a sapphire crystal option, and while I understand wanting to cater to the widest audience possible, a part of me would prefer they had chosen one (the hesalite) and stuck with it. Completing the package, the watch will come on a leather strap, though a reengineered version of the Hudson’s bracelet (which is spectacular) will be available as an option, as well.

The watch is offered in a choice of five dials: Jet Black, Panda, Inverted Panda, Midnight Blue (blue panda), and Thunder Grey. While it may not be for everyone, I think the Thunder Grey is the clear winner, with its orange, black, and maroon accents. The layout is classic, with subdials for running seconds, 30-minute totalizer, and 12-hour totalizer. The chapter ring features simple second demarcations in lieu of a graduated scale of some sort. The handset is nothing extravagant, but appears to keep with the restrained design of the watch, and I’ve been assured that the lume issues that plagued the Hudson upon its initial release have been fully resolved—so no need worry about timing your midnight drag races.

Powering the Skymaster is the Swiss ETA 2894-2, a modular automatic chronograph movement based on the venerable 2892. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, which is nice if you want to ogle the mechanics instead of timing something. Maen is up front about the fact that they have removed the date display and this will leave a ghost position on the crown. While I never like a ghost position, it’s tolerable on a chronograph at this price point, and I appreciate the candor.

The Skymaster has all the makings of an able offering from a maturing brand, and I’d be surprised if it didn’t do as well as the Hudson. You can get yours right now via the Kickstarter campaign, starting at about $710 (€639) for non-EU backers, a nice discount off the full retail will of around $1055 (€949). Whether via Kickstarter or at full retail, you'll be paying an exceptionally fair price for what appears to be well-designed chronograph with a solid movement. Full specs are below, and don't forget to check back for our full review!⬩

DIAMETER: 38mm

THICKNESS: Case 10.9mm (12.9mm including crystal)
LUG TO LUG: 46mm
CASEBACK: Screw down with sapphire glass
MATERIAL: 316L Surgical grade stainless steel
BEZEL: 60 click bi-directional stainless steel bezel with aluminium insert
CRYSTAL: Box domed hesalite glass (with sapphire option)
WATER RESISTANCE: Waterproof to 5ATM
LUME: Applied C1 Superluminova on hands and markers, Printed at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock
MOVEMENT: ETA 2894-2 Swiss Made Automatic Movement ( Elaboré Grade )
POWER RESERVE: ~48 hours
STRAP: 20mm Arizona top grain black leather with white contrasting stitching (with bracelet option)

Did you miss BaselWorld this year? Can't quite swing the Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair? Never fear, because there are several awesome watch events coming up in the US and Europe, including the one organized by your favorite Bum and his pal Bill McDowell. Read on...

District Time

If you are only attending one watch show this year, attend District Time Sponsored by NTH Watches on October 12-13, at the District Architecture Center, 421 7th Street, NW, Washington, DC. Why? Because it's the one I host with McDowell Time, that's why!

This is our fourth annual DC watch event and we will have over 50 brands represented at the show, including Aquadive, AVeritas, Collins, Tsao Baltimore, Ardor & Forge, Attra, Bausele, FTS, EMG, Gavox, Havaan Tuvali, Hager, Lesablier, Nodus, Ocean Crawler, Origin, Roebuck, Sakab, Siduna, Sartory-Billard, Raketa, Minase, LIC, Isofrane, Traska, and Vortic. DC Vintage Watches will have a wide selection of classic pieces from the 1960s-80s for sale. Maryland favorite Little Treasury Jewelers will bring selections for sale from Ball, Bremont, Origin, Zodiac, Alexander Shorokhoff, and the Seiko Prospex, Presage, and Grand Seiko lines. Watch Gauge will have Balticus, BOLDR, Direnzo, Gruppo Gamma, G-Shock, Martenero, and Straton. See DCWatchShow.com for the full listing.

In addition, we've got some remarkable giveaways on both days, watchmaking classes by HSNY (register fast as there are only a handful of spots left) and if you are an aspiring watch brand owner, you should check out the Microbrand University seminar on October 10-11.

The other shows are perfectly wonderful, but District Time is a shining beacon of wristwatch majesty fastened with a unicorn hide strap. You know, in my totally unbiased opinion.

MicroLUX Chicago

Fresh off their first event in Los Angeles this past April, the fellows from Whats On The Wrist are ready with their second show, MicroLUX Chicago at Artspace 8, 900 North Michigan Avenue. On October 18-19, they will host 35 boutique brands including Perrelet, Tockr, G-Shock, Vertex, ABT, and Vostock Europe. Attendees may also sign up for the $1,245 AWCI Build a Watch class, essentially a crash course in which students assemble an ETA 6497 and case it to create a watch they can wear home.

Windup Watch Fair

Since 2015, the fellows at Worn & Wound have organized the annual Windup Watch Fair. It was the first of its kind, and every year, this three-day event draws New York-sized crowds to enjoy a range of curated watch brands, accessories, and ephemera. This year, 39 brands will exhibit including Oris, Stock X, Yema, Zodiac, Brew, Crown & Buckle, Damasko, Dan Henry, Hamilton, and Stowa. The show runs from October 25 through October 27 at Chelsea Market, New York City.

WatchTime New York

While you are in the Big Apple, be sure to visit WatchTime Magazine's event, October 25-26 at Gotham Hall, 1356 Broadway. Friday kicks off with a 5:00 cocktail reception and you can browse all day on Saturday. Tickets are $150 Friday, $50 Saturday. This will be a display of top-shelf watchmaking featuring brands like A. Lang & Söhne, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Bovet, Glashütte Original, MB&F, Omega, Oris, Seiko, Zenith, and more. In addition, you can expect seminars and panel discussions.

AuroChronos Festival

Now in its third year, AuroChronos celebrates independent watchmakers from Poland and around the world. The show will be held on October 5-6, at the Lodz Expo Hall in Lodz, Poland. It will feature expert lectures, practical workshops, and special guests. Over 50 exhibitors will be there, including Anonimo, ArtWatchFrame, Drobiny Czasu, Dumet, Eza, G.Gerlach, Laco, Prim, Tempus, and Zamotana.

Watch It! Watch Fair

Fellow blogger and all-around good dude, Joshua Claire-Flagg of Watch It All About has organized a the Watch It! Watch Fair for British brands. The inaugural event takes place on Saturday, November 9 at "Inside the 22, at CV22", Rugby, Warwickshire. It promises to be a friendly, relaxed affair with

canapés, prosecco, and coffee in addition to an excellent selection of watches. As of this writing, Alkin, Art of Horology, Christopher Ward, Hamtun, Maals, Vapaus, William Walker Watch, and Zero West will attend, and others will be announced shortly. ⬩

I was browsing the Microbrand Watches Facebook Group this weekend and discovered this little gem from member Thomas Shimer. He assembled a tidy little watch stand using nothing but common pipe fittings and dowels. It is stupidly simple, looks cool, and has great potential for customization to fit your needs. Shimer supplied all instructions and photos for this post.

Head to your garage or hardware store and grab:

(12) 0.75" copper elbows

(4) 0.75" copper "T"s

(2) 0.75" diameter dowel rods

Wood Glue

Saw

Cut the dowels down to the following lengths:

(2) 10"

(4) 6"

(1) 5.5"

(4) 4.75"

(2) 3.5"

(1) 2.5" long

(4) 1"

Now it is time to start assembly. Start with the base fitting the 6" and 3.5" into the four elbows (for corners) and two "T"s for center supports, into which you will fit the 2.5" and 5" sections. Assemble the two watch holders using the 10", 4.75", and 1" sections, placing the elbows as corners, the long rods at the top and the shorter rods at the bottom with the remaining "T"s in the center to accept the vertical supports.

Once it all comes together, pull the sections apart and give the dowel ends a smear of wood glue to secure them in the copper fittings. Voila! Your rack is complete.

The stand assembled from this recipe holds about 12 watches but it would not take much imagination to alter it to accept for more or fewer. You could also stain the dowels, wrap them in cloth or leather, whatever. You've got Lego set levels of flexibility in this basic model.

Have at it. If you decide to take the challenge and whip up your own personalized variant on this stand, post your pics to Instagram or Facebook and tag me. I'd love to see them. ⬩

Venturo Field Watch #1

New Versions and Special Editions From Nezumi

York and Front Burrard

Akura Wayfarer

Hemel Brabant

Centric Instruments Lightwell

Kingsbury MS2 Platoon

#DCWatchWeek! Microbrand University and District Time

Kingsbury Dark Water 300

Pancor P03

Collins Sonar

Makara Sea Serpent

Astor+Banks Sea Ranger

Christopher Ward C60 Apex Limited Edition

Raketa Russian Code 0224

Update: DISTRICT TIME 2019

Merlin Watches Sea Legend

Maen Skymaster Chronograph

Fall 2019 Watch Shows

How to Make a Watch Stand