The Time Bum

I've reviewed a few iterations of the Hemel HF Series, all of which were chronographs. I have enjoyed them all. Today, I have the Stratus, the first HF three-hander. While the Stratus may have dropped a couple of functions, it gives up none of the collection's appeal or value.

Hemel Stratus HF6 quartz and HF7 automatic

I've liked the HF Series case from day one. Fashioned in brushed stainless steel, it is 42mm wide, 49mm long, and 13mm from the engraved case back to the flat, AR-coated, sapphire crystal. These proportions create a stout, tool watch wrist presence in a surprisingly compact space. Gently curved, tightly tapered lugs seem to shrink it even more. As such, it wears particularly well on my 6.75" wrist.

A pilot's watch needs a generous crown (the better to grip with those flight gloves, amirite?), and the Stratus delivers with a fluted and signed diamond-shaped crown - a lovely unit that has long been one of my favorite features on these watches. It is a push-pull unit that is sealed for 100m water resistance - a welcome touch as many pilot's watches tend to go light in this department. I'll always opt for a little extra protection. You never know when you might have to go all Capitan Sully and ditch your bird in the drink. Or maybe just fall into a swimming pool. Whichever.

Given that the Stratus is a three-hander, its dial is considerably simpler than those of the chronographs, but it is no less a military design. In classic aviator style, four big Arabic numerals dominate the view, balanced by the fat hash marks of the index. The handset is the same as before, long, lume-filled, and capped off by Hemel's signature orange second hand. Like previous HFs, the Stratus comes with a choice of movements. This time, it's a smooth, 1/4 second sweeping Seiko VH31 quartz or the even smoother, 28.8k bph, Miyota 9039 automatic. The only distinction between the two models is labeling on the dial: "Automatic" or "Electronic," which just sounds way cooler than "Quartz."

Bezel action is excellent, as usual, moving smartly through its 120-click rotation. The insert is glossy black ceramic and appears to be identical to that on the HF Brabant. C3 SuperLuminova brings the hands, markings, and bezel index to life at night. It looks almost perfect - I say almost, because like every other HF, the triangle is just orange paint, so it looks cool in the daylight and then disappears at night.

The Stratus comes on the same thick, leather, 20mm riveted strap as earlier HF Series watches. After all, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Its Cognac color exhibits a lovely pull-up effect, and it secures with a smart signed, square buckle. If this isn't your style, Hemel offers ballistic nylon and Marine Nationale straps as accessories. If you use code NDC at checkout, you can score a free strap too.

The Hemel Stratus is a fine addition to an already immensely satisfying line of watches. The quartz sells for $449.99, the automatic for $549.99, and a portion of the profits on each watch will go to the Bob Woodruff Foundation. For more information or to buy your own, see HemelWatches.com. ⬩

Sergio Godoy of Direnzo Watches is easily one of the freshest designers in the microbrand world. With each of his creations, he has looked to the classics and then reimagined them as uniquely beautiful, thoroughly modern timepieces. His latest is the DRZ 03 Eclipse, which also happens to be the brand's first diver. The Kickstarter campaign starts at 5:00 PM GMT today, but I got to try a pair of prototypes back in December. I loved them.

Measuring 40mm wide and 48mm long, the Eclipse's stainless steel case is comfortably mid-sized and perfect for my 6.75" wrist. Behind the engraved case back lies a Swiss Sellita SW-200-1, a 26 jewel, 28.8k bph, automatic. Despite having proper gaskets for a 200m water resistance rating it is a svelte 12.5mm thick and blessed with a properly proportioned (signed and screw-down) crown that only protrudes about 3mm. As such, you will have no trouble wearing it wherever you like, be it with your business suit or your wetsuit. The case has circular brushing on the top and longitudinal brushing along the sides, bisected by a slender, polished chamfer. All of those lug-to-lug lines in the profile emphasize the Eclipse's length, making it appear even slimmer. It all adds up to a classic retro-style shape.

While the very traditional case grounds the design, the face brings it roaring into the present. There are two layers at play. The first is a dished fumé dial that curves upwards to form the chapter index, and onto which the hour markers are affixed. A flat, matte-finished disk occupies the center, forming a shadowed moon over a color-fade sky. Voilà! Eclipse. Of course, it does not end there. The markers are a combination of circles, rounded bars, and a 12 o'clock triangle. It is similar to the layout of the DRZ 02, but these are as impressively tall as those of the previous model were deep.

Direnzos have always had distinctive handsets and the DRZ 03 shakes it up a bit. The minute hand shares the same shape as was used on the earlier watches, featuring a fat round base that radically tapers to a narrow tip. The hour hand is an all-new arrow shape with a huge head, softened by curved lines in its underside and shaft. As with other elements of this watch, you will easily catch the association with certain vintage divers, but it is unmistakably a modern, Direnzo design. A lollipop second hand with a matching counterweight caps it off. For me, the added bonus is the way the minute hand and the needle tip of the second hand match the length of the markers, and the way the second hand's bubble grazes their lower edge. Very neatly done.

The coin-edged bezel moves smoothly through its 120-click unidirectional rotation with no fuss, wobble, or back play. It sports a comparatively slim sapphire insert so the dial-to-bezel ratio makes the watch appear somewhat larger. Like the dial, it is marked with dots and bars but except for the triangle, their positions are reversed (dots for bars and vice-versa).

Initially, there will be only two color schemes in the works: gray with Old Radium SuperLuminova and a black bezel, and blue with BGW9 and a blue bezel. All markers and hands glow brightly. I am particularly intrigued by the red dial stretch goal. I didn't get to see that one, but that Eclipse effect dial in blood red with white lume should be a stunner.

Both date and no-date versions will be offered. Now, normally, I am strictly a no-date guy, but just as he did on the DRZ 02, Sergio has incorporated the date beautifully as a color-matched disk through a porthole just above the 6 o'clock marker. It is almost too good to pass up, although the date is the only function that uses a number.

Direnzo offers a variety of 20mm straps with the watch purchase. First up, is an Oyster style link bracelet with fitted solid end links and a signed, flip-lock extension clasp. Second, a Marine Nationale type elastic nylon strap. Finally, if the stretch goal is met, backers will also get a rubber Tropic style two-piece. If you are still looking for another strap, you can add an optional a vegetable tanned, minimally stitched leather strap for $30 (this was not yet available when I did my review).

The bracelet is essential and very well executed. The other straps are perfectly fine although, I'll admit that I am probably the only watch fan on earth who does not love a Marine Nationale. Personally, I'd want the bracelet and the leather.

The watches will start at 489 CHF or about $500 US, which is excellent for a piece with these specifications and movement. If you have a fondness for vintage divers but want something that is more contemporary than derivative, then check out the Direnzo DRZ 03 Kickstarter page now. I suspect a watch this good will sell out fast.⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

Heads up! The Marnaut Dark Surge is a big watch. Not Invicta big, but bigger than I usually strap on. The brand is the brainchild of Mario Jutronic, a Croatian watch lover who founded the company in 2018. Mario is a true watch enthusiast, with a vast collection of classics that most of us would love to own. As proof: his parents bought him a Seiko when he was 12, he wore a Seiko 6309-7040 Turtle when he got married, a Seiko 6217-7000 grey dial Olympics GMT when his daughter was born, and an Omega Seamaster 300 cal. 552 during a motorcycle trip across the U.S.A. He also spent his childhood diving off the coast of Croatia. As one does.

With the upcoming release (and successful Kickstarter) of the brand’s second watch, the Seascape 200, I was eager to finally take a look at the debut model, the Dark Surge 300. The brand’s slogan is “For the explorer,” and Mario said his goal was to not put out yet another derivative homage. I think the Dark Surge delivers on both fronts.

The Dark Surge leaves little room for nonsense when it comes to the case. The watch appears much larger than its 42mm diameter and 13mm thickness, but that’s down to curves. And ironically, just as the curves make it look larger than it is, they allow it to wear better than you’d expect--I actually fit it under some of my shirt cuffs. The fully brushed case (circular on top, vertical on the sides) features a rather long lug to lug, but with precipitous lugs that drop off to hug the wrist nicely. The 20mm lugs feature a very subtle bevel midway down, giving a faceted effect. At 3 o’clock, an ample screw down crown with a polished head allows for 300 meters of pure, unadulterated water resistance. Due to the movement’s unutilized date function, the crown features a dead position. I’m normally one to rail against this—there are movements available that avoid this issue. But I have to admit, I never really noticed it enough to be bothered by it.

One advantage of the somewhat thick caseback is that it allows for full operation of the crown while wearing the watch, something most watches just can’t accommodate. Also exceptionally functional is the 120 -lick matte black bezel (also available in steel). Its coin edge is easy to grip, rotating with a satisfying click and excellent tension for a positive timing experience (a phrase I realize sounds absurd and quite snooty). Fully lumed markers all the way around the bezel allow for midnight timing during your weekly possum hunt.

The star of the Dark Surge is unquestionably the dial. Have you ever dreamed of a dream such as this dial? Have you ever wondered such a wonder? Drawing its primary inspiration from the exoskeletons of the sea urchins that inhabit to the waters off Croatia’s coast, with a dash of the vintage Seiko J12082 Silver Wave Starburst edition, the matte black dial features 46 Super-LumiNova C3 lume plots with silver surrounds. Forty. Six. That includes all the hour markers and the smaller dots. With great effect, they charge up quickly, evenly, and brightly, and keep shining well past your bedtime. This is not just lume done right, it’s lume done awesome. Cardinal hours feature proper numerals while rounded baton indices stand in for the rest. A lollipop seconds hand along with a sword-style minute and thick spear-shaped hour are all lumed as well.

Despite it being my favorite part of the watch, the dial is also where I find a few small nits to pick. Because there is no minute track, setting and timing have to be done either on the 5's or by eye. Aside from adding 48 more tiny lume plots around the periphery, there's not a great wait to do this without changing the way the dial looks and feels. The dial text could also use some adjustment. Just below the ‘12’, you’ve got the brand, model, and water resistance nestled cozily. But then down above the ‘6’ you’ve got “automatic” split into two lines. It’s not terrible but it is odd, and I feel it could have been resolved without too much trouble. Swap the ‘automatic’ for the pip immediately below it, make it one line, and you’re set! I’d also love to see the 12 enlarged, eliminating the pip immediately below it. And the lack of a minute track of any kind makes for a very simple and seductive dial, but also means timing and time setting is done on the 5's or by eyeballing it. But these are somewhat small potatoes; getting a dial like this to work well is a true accomplishment, and the Dark Surge does it with grace and aplomb.

Let’s zoom back out, through the domed sapphire crystal, and roll the watch on over to its backside. You see that not only are the lugs heavily curved, but they feature a concave back to provide for even greater wearing comfort. The screw-down caseback features a polished ring around a brushed circle featuring a novel of information, including a serial number that itself pays homage to Seiko, with the month, year, and production number included within. Then, like Uluru rising out of the Australian Outback, the polished Marnaut logo sits upon a brushed disc. It’s pretty, but its also too pronounced in its definition. Though unnoticeable during normal wear, on a day when I’d had some significant wrist expansion, I attempted to shift the watch for comfort and felt the sharpness of the logo scraping against my skin. Not what I want in my caseback reliefs.

The caseback itself protects a Miyota 9015 automatic movement. It’s a workhorse, and though there’s not much to complain about in the movement itself, I would have preferred a 9039 or NH37/38 to allow for a true dateless watch. As I mentioned above, the use of the 9015 means a dead crown position. The movement features 24 jewels, hacking, a 42-hour power reserve, and beats at 28,800 bph. None of that matters though, because it’s very unlikely that you’re buying this watch for its movement. But know that if you have to take a day between your deep dives, you can do so without worrying about the Dark Surge winding down on you.

As with any black and white watch, straps are a non-issue. Feel free to put on basically whatever you want. Due to the significant lug curves and concave caseback, NATO straps are no problem and add less height than on other watches. The watch comes standard on a black silicone strap that will receive as few complaints as it does plaudits, which is to say it’s fine. Also included is a grey Italian distressed leather strap, which is of sufficient quality and pairs surprisingly well with the watch. Both included straps will do, but the versatility of the watch allows for a lot more fun than either provide.

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Creating something that is at once familiar and unique is a remarkable feat and one that, through time and patience, Marnaut has achieved. Complemented by a rugged, refined, and functional case, the dial here is a breath of fresh air—entirely original, nearly perfect in its execution, and highly legible. The Marnaut Dark Surge misses with its too-sharp caseback and the two-line ‘Automatic’ (in 50 years, this will be the new “meters first,” and Marnaut aficionados will extol its virtues), but it still manages to accomplish its goal: create something new and exciting in the overcrowded space of dive watches. If you’re interested in snagging one for yourself, they’re available here for $549, an exceptional price for an exceptional watch.⬩

On Monday, February 17, Alan Tsao of Tsao Baltimore will start taking pre-orders for his third project, the Constellation Chrono-Diver. Named for the square-rigged, 19th-century warship now docked in Baltimore's Inner Harbor, this watch has the unenviable task of following the wildly successful Tsao Torsk-Diver, which funded in about a nanosecond and is still a popular piece. I'm sure he was tempted to do a "Son of Torsk" sequel, but instead, he opted to do something different - a MechaQuartz chronograph. He let me take a turn with a prototype, and I liked what I saw.

Tsao Baltimore Constellation Chrono-Diver

True to its name, Chrono-Diver is ready for 200m - provided you can resist pushing those chronograph buttons while submerged. Of course, no one really needs a chronograph while diving, but the added protection is nice to have when engaging in any other water-borne activity. In every other aspect, the Constellation is a fully capable diving watch.

Tsao Baltimore Constellation Chrono-Diver wrist shot

Unlike its burly predecessor, the Constellation is more modestly sized, measuring 41mm wide, 48mm long, and 15mm thick from the case back to the top of the crystal. This makes it a better fit on my 6.75" wrist than the 43mm Torsk. Even though it is smaller than the Torsk, it is by no means diminutive and the case's sharp barrel shape accentuates its athletic presence.

I see a late '60s - early '70s aesthetic at work here, particularly in the lugs, which are particularly well rendered on this model. Skinny and knife-edged, they fall away from the case at a dramatic angle. In profile, you will see one of Tsao's signature elements, an arc bridging the lugs and showcasing the grooved and polished barrel beneath. A brightly polished bevel running the length of the otherwise brushed case terminates in a stiletto-like point at the lugs' outer edges. Many designers would have finished the shape with a sharp angle on the underside; however, Tsao rounded it off, losing nothing in aesthetics while significantly contributing to the wearer's comfort.

I need to jump right to the bracelet here because its seamless integration into the case adds so much to the Constellation's personality. That sheer drop at the lugs is matched by the bracelet's end link. Combine that with an impressibly tight fit to the case, and the result looks almost like a single chiseled block of steel.

The bracelet itself is a quality piece, tapering from 20mm to 18mm at the clasp. Because Alan and I both have small wrists, the prototype arrived perfectly sized. The clasp is of the extension variety that seems to be all the rage these days. I like its engraving, push-button releases, and micro-adjustments, but I must admit that I would have preferred a slimmer flip-lock to this boxy style. That said, at 10mm, the Constellation's is thinner than most and does not exhibit the desktop destroying corners I have found on others. If you prefer something different, you can easily pop off the bracelet with a simple squeeze of its quick-release pins, which by the way, are brilliant. Every bracelet should have these. Although I did not get the chance to sample one, the Constellation will also come with a sailcloth strap.

Tsao Baltimore Constellation Chrono-Diver clasp

While it is obviously a new design, the Constellation borrows some of the best bits of the Torsk. The dial layout may seem familiar, as its layout is close to that of its sibling, and it has similarly shaped polished and applied markers, although the hands are more chrono-appropriate polished and faceted batons with a white-painted and red-tipped sweep hand. Like the diver, it boasts a tall, coin-edged, 120-click bezel with a domed, sapphire insert, a domed sapphire crystal, and a signed, lumed, coin-edged, screw-down crown that mirrors the bezel's design.

This is a gorgeous dial. Every tic on every index is finely rendered and crystal clear. Tsao offers the Constellation in black on white Panda, white on black Reverse Panda, Sea Green, and the Marine Blue shown here (a dark teal color that really comes to life in the bezel insert). The sunken, contrasting chapter ring makes a return as well. Both the bezel and insert are lumed like they are on the Torsk. These elements blaze to life in a green C3 SuperLuminova glow at night, but they are still not the boldest feature in the dark. That honor goes to the Constellation's recessed small seconds and 24-hours subdials, which are lumed on every model but the Panda. That model trades the glowing registers for a full lume dial.

Tsao Baltimore Constellation Chrono-Diver lume

On the flip side, the watch boasts a stamped, screw-down case back showing the Constellation's star insignia. The detail is impressive, and it stands in high relief. Behind it, hums a Seiko VK64 MechaQuartz, one of the more interesting battery-driven movements you can buy. It marries a quartz timekeeper to a mechanical chronograph module for excellent button action, smooth sweep, and crisp snap-back reset.

Tsao Baltimore Constellation Chrono-Diver case back

Pre-orders begin February 17, 2020, with delivery expected in May or June. Full retail will be $450, and those who jump on the pre-orders will get it for just $350. There will be only 200 of each unit, so if the Constellation grabs you (and I don't see why it wouldn't), you will do well to head over to tsaobaltimore.com and check it out. ⬩

A couple of weeks ago, Iconic Timepieces sent me a prototype of their debut model to review ahead of its pre-order release. Since that time, they have planned a few changes. This is not at all uncommon when working with prototypes but it can be confusing for the reader, so I’ll give you the skinny right upfront. I think the Iconic’s overall design concept is sound but there are a couple of planned changes that could sway a few buyers. I’ll explain more as I go along.

The Halocline is a 200m diving watch powered by a Swiss Sellita SW200-1, a 26-jewel, 28.8k bph automatic based on ETA 2824-2 architecture. Its 43mm wide stainless steel case puts it on the larger side of things, but not unreasonably so. At 49mm long, it still manages to park itself squarely atop my 6.75” wrist, and 13mm to the flat sapphire bezel and crystal does not appear overly thick when spread across a case this wide.

Still, the Halocline is clearly a sports watch that conveys a weighty presence that is enhanced by its distinctive horn lugs. Where most lugs taper inward, these flare out, creating an angular, boxy shape even as they curve downwards. I’d normally associate this look with vintage dress pieces, not tool watches, but it works. With chiseled angles and a brushed finish, these horns come off as more ornery than ornamental. This is going to be the element people either love or hate. Personally, I’m pleased to see Iconic doing something a little different from the dive watch norm.

A tall bezel with deep flutes offers easy grip and firm movement through its 120-click rotation. The upper edge is rounded, allowing the brushed groves to wrap into the top of the bezel. Right next to it, however, is the similarly fluted screw-down crown, which does not share the same pattern, and which is polished on the edge and brushed only on its signed head. It is not a big deal, but this small disconnect seems like a lost opportunity to me. Better symmetry between the two elements would have gone a long way.

Flipping the watch over, you will discover that the bottom of the case is polished, which is a little odd. Not bad, mind you. Just odd because it is generally hidden and lends nothing to the overall design. The screw-down case back is brushed and engraved with the Iconic logo.

Back up front, things get more interesting. In addition to the gray dial pictured here, Iconic will offer green, blue, and red. First off, the ombré dial is just lovely, the dark perimeter highlighting the white index and applied diamond-shaped markers. Paired as it is with the white, full-lume, sapphire insert, it looks almost frosty. Next, needle-thin polished and lumed lance hands and a diamond-tipped, logo-tailed second hand. Finally, C3 SuperLuminova lights it up like a torch, but only on the prototype. The end product will use BGW9 for a whiter white in the daytime and a blue glow at night.

To my eye, the Halocline’s face is its best feature; distinctive, stylish, and clean. It is also one of the aspects due to change. Production models will have a larger, more conventional sword handset for better visibility. As you can see from the rendering below, the new hands will still harmonize with the markers, and with more surface area for lume down their length, they should appear longer as well. It’s the right decision.

That’s not all. Iconic’s “IT” logo may be applied instead of printed and, as you might have already noticed, the name of the watch will change. The “Hampton Bay” monicker on the prototype will now be “Halocline,” a name that sounds far cooler and cannot be confused with other brands’ watches or ceiling fans. Oh, and one more thing, the model name might be smaller to allow “Automatic” and “200M/660FT” to be larger and arranged on two additional lines. These decisions are not yet final. Again, it all makes good sense, but you are going to have to take it on faith.

The last area for examination and revision is the bracelet. Finished products will have the same solid, H-link design, and signed flip-lock clasp, but it will taper from 22mm to 18mm and screws will replace the pre-production split-pins. What won’t change, is the shape of the fitted end links that don’t quite match the shape of the lugs and protrude just beyond their trailing edge. I have to say, it bugs me. A fitted end link should fit in all aspects. This one does not. Iconic is working with its bracelet supplier on a solution, but once more, it is not yet available to evaluate.

All in all, the Halocline has some great elements and unique look; however, the finished product will not be entirely what is pictured here, so you might need to exercise your imagination before you buy.

Pre-orders for the Halocline will begin March 1, 2020, at $450. After the first 75, the price will go up to $480. After April 15 when the pre-order period ends, the price will go up to $675. For that, buyers will get the watch, a travel case, and a strap tool. Iconic will provide more information on how and where to order when the date approaches so if you want to get in early on this one, head over to IconicTimepiece.com and sign up for notices. ⬩

If you haven't heard of Feynman Watches, it's likely because we haven't covered them (we're very important and influential). The brand released its first watch, aptly named the Feynman One, in 2018 through a successful Kickstarter campaign. A handwound dress-ish watch featuring a stunning layered dial, I still regret not getting a chance to review one (they are still available in four colors). But fortune favors the watch nerd and Feynman is about to launch their second watch, the Cove diver, which we will be featuring for review in a few weeks. But the Kickstarter is about to launch, so we wanted to let you know about it before you miss out on early pricing.

The Cove will havea very similar dial layout to the Feynman One, featuring a layered design with additional sectoring on the colored dial ring. Plus, as you'd expect from a diver, they've integrated a bidirectional internal bezel, which will be fully lumed. In fact, everything but the colored dial ring will be lumed: hands, seconds track, hours track, bezel--even the wave pattern on the interior circle.

I quite like the case, with its fluid lines and dual compressor-style crown setup. The finishing appears to be top notch, and with a case diameter of 40mm and height of under 13mm, it's sure to wear well, too. Ticking inside is a top grade (that means regulated within COSC limits) automatic ETA 2895--the subsecond iteration of the venerable 2894.

The specs and design make for a very unique diver. I'm dying to try this out, and should have a full hands-on review by the end of March, maybe even before the campaign ends! I'll dive deeper into the nitty gritty, have my usual long-winded gripes, and take some more realistic photos for you. In the meantime, the campaign is now live on Kickstarter, with the watch available as low as $670 (over 40% off retail) for those who get in early.⬩

I first laid eyes on the Visitor Watches Calligraph Linden way back in 2015. At that time, it was one of several prototypes that Visitor's founder, Phil Rodenbeck, let me preview over a long lunch. I thought it was an excellent watch to follow the Duneshore Calligraph because while it shared a similar dial, it also had smaller, all-new, and quite elegant case design. Five years later, the Linden has become a staple of the Visitor line, and Phil thought it might be fun to lend Mike and me two variants for a “Dueling Bums” review. “Why not?” we thought. After all, two Bums are clearly better than one.

There are four Lindens: Midnight (black), Larkspur (blue), Snowfall (white), and Amaranth (mauve), with a choice of eight straps. I chose the Snowfall, Mike got the Amaranth. Each of us got three straps to play with too. Naturally, we immediately made it a competition, pitting #teamamaranth against #teamsnowfall for no apparent reason and with literally nothing at stake.

Dial

Mike: I’m a huge fan of the indices, which carry over from the Duneshore (which has the most amazing mesh bracelet with beads that match those markers—mind blown). The elegant pen nib hands are also carry over and continue the unique flair that defines the watch. Obviously, Amaranth is THE dial to go with. Apparently, this is what mauve looks like, but Amaranth is an objectively more seductive name. Not sure what he meant by sandwich dial – no, wait. It’s the minute markers on the dial’s edge. Got it.

I’m quite torn on both the crosshair on the red dial and the black date window. If this watch had the 9039 without the date, I’d already own at least one. As it is, it is the only thing holding me back. The saving grace is that the crosshairs allow the black date to have SOME anchor to the rest of the watch as if it simply extends from the eastern crosshair (happy to start a band called Eastern Crosshair, if you’d like). I also love the placement of the Visitor name and the lack of any other dial text – though wouldn’t it be cool if under the western crosshair the model name was featured? (Is Western Crosshair a better band name?).

Loren: Ok, so the dial really is a scaled-down Duneshore – not that there is anything wrong with that. I dig the Duneshore! Perforated index? Love it. Applied teardrop markers? Love ‘em. Insane pen-nib handset on willowy polished stems? I love them too, although I will say that I sometimes find I lose the top-heavy hands and have to scan for a nanosecond to read the time. Such is the price of fashion. Of course, of all the colors offered, Snowfall white is quite clearly the best. I like the way the black reticle seamlessly ties in the black date window in a way the Amnesia dial does not. And the white-lume-on-white phantom brand name that only comes out at night? So sexy. I’m not saying it’s superior to your Absinthe it just that... oh ok, that is exactly what I’m saying.

While we’re on it, the BGW9 lume is crazy on this thing. Hands, markers, index, name, date, the works. I mean seriously, the man lumes his date disks. Who does that? You just can’t beat it.

“Hello, Cleveland! We’re Western Crosshair, and we are ready to ROCK!” Nope. Not doing it for me. I think “Eastern Crosshair” is a concept album by that famed prog-rock band, Reticle.

Mike: Go build your fort, Captain Snowball. The Amaranth is a year-round classic that will always look good. But I'll be the bigger Time Bum here and concede the cool Snowfall has more versatility with straps and would make a cool winter day even cooler. And over at Amaranth HQ, we've long been jealous of the covert branding that Team Snowfall gets to enjoy. At least we know we're ahead of Team Larkspur and Team Midnight. I'm also noticing that the seconds' counterbalance is, in fact, a micro-iteration of the Visitor logo!

I have to agree on the hands: the lume is fantastic, but the minute hand extends well over the hour markers, like a GMT indicator, and as such, can get lost in a sea of white blobs. I'm still stuck on the date window, despite your praises. I feel having the reticle actually trace around the aperture (I can use fancy words, too) may have improved its integration.

Case

Mike: The case is every bit as elegant as the hands and fittingly echoes the rest of the Calligraph collection. I know Phil shies away from saying the watches are wholly inspired by pens—but there’s undeniable likeness to fountain pens and their nibs. While a far cry from the bulkiness of the Duneshore, the general shape remains, proposing a dressy alternative. As such, the Calligraph collection can be seen as a spectrum from Duneshore to Vale Park Officer to Linden, with this watch as the dressiest.

Loren: Phil is innovative in all aspects of his watch designs, but his cases really stand out. The Linden is no exception. You can definitely see elements of the Duneshore and Vale Park Officer in the Linden, but it is a simpler, more streamlined shape than either. It is also sleeker (39 mm wide, 48.5mm long, and 10.5 mm thick). I love the multi-piece construction, the pronounced pinch in the lugs, and the wide polished chamfer that almost vanishes as it reaches the scallop at the broad, flat crown.

Have I mentioned my crusade against oversized crowns? This one does it right: broad, easy to grip, but not particularly tall, so it doesn’t ruin the flow of the case.

Mike: Pinch! That's just the word to describe these lugs. Pinched. But in a high society way. Aristocratic Pinching.

Loren: “Aristocratic Pinching” is the first track on “Eastern Crosshair.”

Movement

Loren: It’s Miyota 9015 with a custom rotor. 28.8k bph, 24 jewels, smooth, reliable.

Mike: We don't need to say much on the 9015; it's a workhorse we know well here at Time Bum HQ.

Loren: True, but it is worth mentioning the custom rotor. It’s not unusual to etch a brand’s logo on there, but Visitor has done a particularly nice job on this one. Which, I suppose, brings us to the…

Case Back

Mike: I'm a believer in "Less Is More" on case backs, so I want to applaud the lack of unnecessary specs on the Linden's screw-down, sapphire back. Just brand, model, and serial. And while I love the Visitor doorknocker logo (it's one of my favorites), I wish the Linden featured the heavy rotor of the Vale Park Officer, which has elicited my lust each time I've seen it. That said, the etched, gilt logo is still nice here, and the cutouts to match the dial markers are a great touch.

Loren: I can’t hate on the rotor. The Vale Park sets a high bar, but this one is more than sufficiently pretty.

Visitor Calligraph Linden Snowfall wrist

Straps

Mike: The straps are the very best I have ever handled, possibly on any watch and certainly on a micro. They are undeniably high quality and balance suppleness with firmness, without sacrificing either. It’s rare that I don’t want to swap straps—you know this from my reviews—but the two included straps are simply perfect for the watch. So much so that attaching other straps seems a wasteful shame, like not starting your best seeker in the quidditch cup, or something less nerdy. The Fieldstone strap is what won my heart when I first saw the Amaranth at the District Time DC watch show, and it ranks among the most perfect pairings for a watch that I can think of, truly embodying Strap Nirvana. I’ve found that the use of curved spring bars wasn’t entirely necessary, though otherwise, it’s a tight fit, and it looks only serves to add continuity and fluidity to the entire package.

Loren: Agreed. While I hesitate to say “best” for anything, I will say that they are mighty damn fine. I appreciate that the leather is not over-processed. There is no break-in required, and the surface has a natural, laid-back finish that can roll with most bumps and scratches and absorb them as character. It bodes well for the long run. The 20-16mm taper is a dressy, vintage touch. Of course, Phil leaves nothing under-designed, so a buckle sculpted to complement the case was given. The bazillion adjustment holes are also a nice touch for small-wristed fellows like me.

I’m not generally crazy about curved spring bars, but they work here. They look more finished, and as you mentioned, they add one more interesting curve that complements the case. Like you, I haven’t tried it on any straps besides the ones Phil supplied. Three is more than enough: Black is suitably dressy, Caramel offers a warm, casual look, and the Marina Blue is bold and sporty. Fitting a non-Visitor strap to the Linden would be like Harry using Draco Malfoy’s wand. I mean, it would work just fine, but they might not share the same bond. (I see your nerdiness and raise you one Harry Potter reference.)

Mike: I forgot to mention the sizing extravaganza that is all the different strap holes. I'd be fine wearing this on a summer day where the heat soars, and so does my wrist circumference – easy, precise adjustments.

Packaging

Loren: To me, the least interesting part of any watch purchase is the box it comes in, but that does not stop me from being annoyed at thoughtless or wasteful packaging. Visitor gets it right, by shipping the watch in that clever, zippered nylon case that holds three watches on foam pillows. This is something I could actually see myself using when traveling. I'll award bonus points for the embossed leather logo inside the lid.

Mike: I agree. It's quite a nice case and the outer box is customized too, which is not important but a pleasant touch.

Visitor Calligraph Linden Snowfall travel case kit

Conclusion

Suffice to say, we dig this watch. With the Linden, Phil cooked up all the style of the Duneshore in a smaller, less ornate, yet irresistible package. If you are similarly smitten, you’re in luck! Unlike some of Visitor’s other models, the Linden is in stock and ready to ship for $580, including your strap of choice. Extra straps are $40-50 each. For more information, go to www.visitorwatchco.com. ⬩

Photos by Mike Razak and Loren Sciurba

Photos and review by Mike Razak

I stole this watch from The Time Bum. He was slated to review it, and I swooped in. And by stole, I mean asked if I could do it and was allowed to. No less!—it's all mine now. I've been a big fan of New Jersey-based Mercer Watches since I got into this hobby in late 2015, which was shortly after they launched. While not all of their designs are for me, I like most of them; I currently own the Durham, have previously owned the Lexington, thought seriously for quite some time about buying the Airfoil, and convinced someone else to buy the Wayfarer II GMT.

So I wasn't surprised when pictures of the Javelin came out, and I liked it. The three-piece case reminded me of Bremont in a great way, and the watch seemed to answer a question I've long asked: What would happen if you made a Bremont that was thinner, more wearable? The Mercer Javelin is what would happen. But that doesn't mean the Javelin lacks charms of its own.

The Javelin's case comes in at the upper end of my wrist's sweet spot, 41mm across and just 11mm tall. This makes for an easy-wearing watch on just about any wrist, though be advised that due to the thinness of the bezel, the watch looks more like 42mm. And with longer lugs, the watch did have a slight overhang (see the above pic). The finishing on the three-piece case adds dimension and texture. The bezel feature three facets: brushed top, polished bevel, then a thin band of brushed just above the midcase. The midcase features a brushed finish throughout, accented by a thin polished chamfer along the underside edge. The coup de grâce is the matte black knurled lower midcase. It all comes together for a rugged look that is reinforced by the watch's more than adequate 100M water resistance.

If you're familiar with Bremont lugs, you'll recognize the profile of Javelin's 22mm lugs, which expand a bit as they extend away from the case, almost squaring out by the end. The 22mm lugs are wider than I usually prefer, but with the spacious dial, they help rein in the perceived width of the dial (with 20mm lugs, the watch would likely look like 43-44mm on the wrist). Spinning around to 3 o'clock, a standard push-pull crown features a polished tube section capped off by a coin edge grip. Due to the use of a movement with a date function and no display, there is a dead crown position, but I didn't find it too bothersome: the date stop is somewhat fluid, for better or worse, and you may not even notice it. I do, however, wish the crown was a bit larger, which the case certainly could've handled. As it is, it's operable, but falls short of perfection.

A double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating provides excellent glare protection, with the dial readable at almost any angle. The olive drab dial is my favorite of the three options (the others being black and midnight blue). This may be because I'm really into green dials, I'm really over blue dials, or black dials lean towards meh. Whatever the reason, I'm certainly right. While the dial is plenty spacious, its not empty, as can be an issue. A minute track surrounds the dial, with triangular 5-minute markers and minute hashes. Numerals in a serif font provide a field watch feel with a dash of elegance, something a swashbuckler may choose to wear in the modern age. At 12 o'clock is the Mercer sabre logo and at 6 o'clock the Javelin name in a modern yellow font to match the seconds hand. Filling in the rest of the dial is a white reticle, aiming for greatness.

I've decided there is a swashbuckling theme to this watch. I doubt it was intentional, and I don't know whether my interpretation will be shared. The lugs look like some old cutlass swords, the Mercer logo includes a sabre, the numeral font has the adventurous elegance of Errol Flynn, and now we've arrived at the sword-style hands! Quod erat demonstratum. The hands, like the crown, could stand to be enlarged, but are perfectly legible as is. Like the triangles and the numerals, the hands feature Super-LumiNova BG W9, which is applied even and glows bright blue-green (I saw Parasite with the Javelin on wrist, and the lume lasted through most of the 2+ hour movie; though I haven't watched other Korean films with other watches, so I can't do a direct comparison). The yellow seconds hand features no lume, however, and I just can't decide how I feel about that. The black gloss finish that surrounds the lume on the hands is a bit off for me. I think a brushed or polished steel would have been more consistent with the rest of the watch.

Turning the watch over, a screw-down display back with a tolerable amount of text shows off the Swiss STP 1-11 movement. STP is Fossils foray into Swiss movement manufacturing, in an attempt to seize part of the market left when ETA restricted supply of their movements. But don't let that (or the hate that STP sometimes gets) fool you. On delivery to Mercer, the STP 1-11 beats the standard grade ETA 2824 in power reserve (44 hours), average rate (-0/+15 s/d), jewel count (26), and it uses a higher grade hairspring. To wit: over the last two days I had the Javelin, it gained about 5 sec/day. Take that, snobs!

Those 22mm lugs limit strap swaps (for me—I only have a few 22mm watches). Even so, I had this as many 22s as I could find. Unsurprisingly, it worked well with earth tones, though it was just ok with the blue strap I tried (Watch Steward elastic in Denim). The longer lugs allow for easy use of NATOS, though as they don't curve too aggressively, the watch can end up feeling like it sits high at times. The stock straps on the Javelin are camo leather color-coordinated to the dial you choose, with white stitching, and reinforced spring bar tubes. Like all of Mercer's stock straps, it's high quality, requires little to no break-in, and feels great on the wrist. A custom buckle helps tie the whole package together.

If you're in the upper 50th percentile of wrist sizes, you'll likely be quite happy with the Javelin. The case is exceptional and different from almost anything you'll get at this price point, and the refinement and ruggedness are perfectly balanced. I think I would've really gone nuts over this watch if it was scaled down to 40mm, and all things adjusted accordingly. With a pre-order price of $299 (and a retail of only $429), it's hard to complain about anything. If you like what you see and aren't as picky as I am, the watch is available now on the Mercer website. At the very least, you'll have a undeniably solid watch with a Swiss movement and a Bremont-style case (without the Bremont-style price).⬩

I received the Nine FourSuccessor blind. Usually, I have seen a photo or rendering. At the very least, I have a general idea of what I have committed to review. This time, Milwaukee, Wisconsin’s Nine Four asked, and I agreed, end of story. All I knew is that it would be their first automatic watch. It wasn’t until I opened the box that realized it was a 1970s styled, three-hand dress watch and a rather cool one at that. The Successor pre-order campaign starts March 1 and based on my test run with the prototype, I think it is worth a look.

The Successor’s brushed stainless steel case is 40mm wide, 46mm long, and 10.5mm thick. The head's pancake proportions are followed in the bracelet and clasp too. As you might imagine, it was a perfect size for my 6.75" wrist.

If you think you are catching hints of Seiko Grand Quartz 9256-8010, Tudor North Flag, or Zenith Defy, you are correct and the resemblance is entirely intentional. Those sharp corners, crisp angles, and flat planes cut an unmistakably dapper profile that is highlighted by a slim chamfer running the length of the case. A polished accent on the outside of the bezel offers just the right about of reflection to contrast the north-south brushing on the other surfaces. The case on this sample was rose gold PVD and the mellow color and rough grain tempered it to the point that I initially thought it might be a fresh bronze case. It’s a smart look, and far less flashy than a fully polished gold case would have been. A silver stainless case is also in the works.

The case flows into a handsome H-link bracelet that tapers from 24mm at the case to a mere 15mm butterfly deployant clasp. Each link sports a beveled edge on its perimeter, adding another touch of refinement. It’s a good thing it works so well because it’s this or nothing. There is no way to fit a standard strap.

While not a tool watch, the Successor is sealed for 100m water resistance and topped with a sapphire crystal so it should handle the ups and downs of daily life without issue. C3 SuperLuminova adds another level of practicality. I always appreciate a touch of lume on a dress watch; I’ve never understood why designers seem to think dress watches are never worn after dark. This one has no such issue, popping with a bright green glow.

The dial features a layout that treads the line between tool watch practicality and dress watch formality. The applied, polished, and lumed rectangular markers and triangle at 12 o’clock would look right at home on a diver, while long, polished coffin-shaped hands lean more to the fancy side of the equation. Nonetheless, it’s a balance that works. The only qualm I have with the arrangement are the rather stingy channels of C3 in the hands that make them appear tiny in the dark.

One of the Successor’s key design elements is the teak dial. As much as I like the boat deck texture, I like the color even more. Navy, Royal, and Midnight blue dials are fairly common. In good light, the Nine Four’s blue is a touch greener, closer to cerulean, and far more distinctive.

Inside, you will find a stalwart Seiko NH35. No, you won’t get the 28.8k sweep of an ETA 2824 or Miyota 9015 (the Seiko moves at 21.6k bph), but you won’t have to pay as much for it either. Frankly, I’m impressed that Nine Four managed to squeeze the fatter NH35 into such a thin case and still maintain 100m water resistance.

The Nine Four Successor will sell for $199 when the pre-order period opens on March 1 and $300 after it ends. Check out ninefourwatches.com for more info. ⬩

Mitchell Timepieces has just launched the Raider Kickstarter campaign. Created by an Air Force veteran, this vintage-styled watch pays homage WW2 aviators. I got to try this very well sorted prototype.

Military watch aficionados will spot some of the Raider's design cues right away. The case is very much like that of an Elgin A13 or A11 with its rounded, dramatically fluted bezel and large, signed, coin-edged crown. The crown is a push-pull that seals for a useful 100m water resistance. My only gripe is that it is polished and, thus, out of step with the otherwise brushed case and hardware.

Of course, at 42mm wide, the Raider is considerably larger than those earlier watches, but its 48mm length allows a proper fit on my 6.75" wrist. Better still, the watch is only a touch over 14mm thick, including its seductive doubled domed sapphire crystal. This keeps the overall proportions well within reasonable limits and makes for a very wearable watch.

It owes its slimness to the Miyota 9039 inside. That 24 jewel automatic is essentially the beloved 28.8k bph 9015 architecture, sans date. As a result, it is thinner and eliminates the phantom crown position and unseen date change that bedevils certain watch freaks when confronted with a no-date dial like this one.

The dial harkens back to pre-war aviation watches. Heavy Arabic numerals with tiny, pointed serifs lend it a vintage IWC air that is further reinforced by polished poire squelette hands. Mitchell prints its brand name in an attractively streamlined typeface, similar to the style that was so popular in America immediately after the war. Above it is a single star. This, I really like. The model name below, less so. For that, they have chosen a stencil typeface, which has the right military association, but looks out of place when compared to the lightweight brand name. On the positive side, the folks at Mitchell have wisely kept the name small. Any larger, and would have easily detracted from the other elements on the dial. As it stands, the dissimilarity in the styles will likely bother no one but a handful of font nerds like myself.

That aside, it is a handsome dial, and I appreciate the fact that the minute and second hands reach right to the outer track. BGW9 lume on the hands and numbers lights up exactly as you would like. A white, full-lume dial is also available.

That star on the dial is more than just decoration; it symbolizes the General's rank attained by Jimmy Doolittle after the Tokyo Raid of April 18, 1942. Flipping the watch over, you will find more references. The airplane engraved on the case back is a B-25, the type flown in the raid. It is oriented to heading 250, it's nose aligned with the 25 on the compass. As for the irony of using a Japanese movement in a watch commemorating the bombing of Tokyo? Let's just say a lot has changed since then.

The Raider comes on a 22mm canvas strap backed with a Horween leather and equipped with quick-release pins. The prototype had seen a little wear and was the better for it because canvas can be stiff right out of the box, whereas this was quite comfortable. I did notice a good bit of fraying, which is not at all uncommon in fabric straps where the material is not wrapped over the edges. I found it a bit too rustic for my tastes, but to many, that is the very point. The signed pre-v style buckle fits the Raider's character, even if it is on the large side.

Overall, the Raider is a charming watch - even more so when you consider its price. Its Kickstarter starts at $325, and full retail will be $399. That is not bad at all for these specs and a 9039. For more information or to place your order, head over to the Raider Kickstarter page now. ⬩

I have reviewed many of Undone Watches' products, so when I announced in October 2019 that the Basecamp was by far my favorite, it was no small thing. That model's tidy proportions, vintage charm, and everyday practicality made it a clear winner in my eyes, and it has seen significant time on my wrist in the months since. So, given that background, let me tell you this: Undone has just gone one better. The Undone x Simple Union Collaboration launches today, and from what I've seen, it is magnificent.

UNDONE x Simple Union Basecamp Kyoto Bronze

The watch starts with the basic Basecamp blueprint; a 40mm wide, 48mm long, 12mm thick case, topped with a bidirectional bezel and a lovely, 3mm domed Lexan crystal. A sturdy Seiko NH35 automatic keeps the time. It is rated for a useful 100m of water resistance. So far, so good. Now, let's bring in Simple Union, a Hong Kong craft house, offering a wide range of handmade goods and accessories, including watch straps.

The Undone x Simple Union watch marries the sensibilities of the two companies into a series of watches that embody the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, an aesthetic near and dear to my own views on watch collecting that I can best describe as an appreciation of imperfection and impermanence. Given this objective, bronze was the logical choice. Its natural oxidation process begins the minute it is cast, developing a mellow brown patina that varies depending on its environment. The case, crown, bezel, and insert, are all brushed bronze with a patination well underway. (Note that bronze is now an option for standard Basebamps as well.)

Simple Union produces the collaboration watches' straps from antique Japanese Katazome cloth. Using a technique originating in the Edo Period (1603-1868), the hand-spun and woven fabrics feature nature-inspired patterns created using indigo dye and a rice-paste stencil method, producing crisp images and distinctive blue that ages remarkably. The pieces used here are from the Meiji-era, so they are over 150 years old and yet are still vivid. The 20mm straps are leather-backed, equipped with quick-release pins, and each is unique.

Perhaps the most striking feature of the collaboration watch is its "Kyoto dial," an imaginative spin on the California dial that swaps Kanji for the usual Cali's Roman numerals in the upper half. Appropriately retro gold "Mercedes" hands underscore the dial's vintage appeal. Its indigo surface bears a jagged scar in the Kintsugi style, a traditional ceramics repair technique that celebrates the break by highlighting the fix with gold-dusted lacquer - or in this case, lume. All dial text is in Japanese except the Undone brand name at 6 o'clock.

The Undone x Simple Union collection is limited to 300 pieces and sells for $395. If you are looking for a truly beautiful and unique watch to add to your collection, I'd suggest you head over to the Undone webstore and give these a good look. ⬩

Photos courtesy of Undone Watches

Second Hour Watches is preparing a Kickstarter campaign for its debut model, the Gin Clear Diver. I'll admit, I had never heard the term "gin clear" before. I get it, of course. "Gin clear water" is easy to picture, even if I prefer the view through my gin to be blurred by tonic water bubbles and a wedge of lime. For this review, Second Hour gave me a turn with one of their traveling prototypes, decked out in a lovely Pastel Blue.

The Gin Clear Diver's case measures 41.5mm across and 49mm long. A 42.5mm bezel increases the size a touch; the extra millimeter making it that much easier to grab the 120-click bezel. Thickness from the case back to the top of the domed sapphire crystal is 13.5mm, and lug-to-lug length is 49mm. Its H-link bracelet is 22mm at the fitted end-links, tapering to a 20mm signed, flip-lock, push-button clasp. All the links are solid, screwed, and reassuringly weighty. The whole package is by no means small, but properly sporty given its status as a 200m diver, and it is still a reasonable fit on my 6.75" wrist.

Second Hour Gin Clear Diver Pastel Blue wrist shot

Specific design features like the flat sides, the 7mm crown (signed and screw-down), the chunky guards flanking them, and the absence of any slimming chamfers on the case reinforces the Gin Clear's tool watch presence, visually beefing it up all around. All surfaces are bushed except for the polished crown, bezel, the beveled edges on the clasp, and the sides of the bracelet. While it is certainly handsome, as it is, I felt that polished bevels along the outside edges of the lugs would refine the Gin Clear's appearance and better tie in the other polished elements. It seems I was not alone. Second Hour plans to do just that before production.

Which brings me to the often inevitable roadblock in evaluating prototypes: the changes. This is one of those watches that will see several significant alterations before production. I'll point them out as we go along. For the case and bracelet, the lugs will get their dash of flash and will also be drilled (always a welcome touch), the end links will be redesigned for a better fit (as it is, they are just the tiniest bit too short), and the guards will be reduced to make the crown that much more accessible (I had no issues).

Moving on, we get to my favorite features of the Gin Clear, namely the black ceramic bezel insert and the gorgeous, Pastel Blue dial. Second Hour will offer the watch in Arctic White, Black Sand, and Cream Sand as well (red, green, and blue enamel sunray dials are stretch goals), but you know this Bum can't resist an original color. I find this Robin's Egg hue to be particularly striking, showing just the slightest metallic sheen that makes for a particularly pleasing background for the polished markers, hands, and date window frame. Second Hour has chosen an unusual layout here, placing the distinctive quadrangle markers at 12, 4, and 8. I like it, though I suspect some will find it disconcerting. A no-date dial will be produced if stretch goals are met.

More of an issue for me is the dial text. The brand has a fairly detailed logo consisting of a cross in an eight-pointed star, under which is the Second Hour name. On the prototype, this is underlined, adding to the complexity, but that line will be deleted in production, and the font will be smaller, both of which should help bring it into balance. There are three additional lines of text in the lower half. Now, the Gin Clear has plenty of room for all this, but the surface under the printing is embossed, actually making the letters less legible than if they had been printed on a flat surface. It's a small thing, but once I noticed it, I found it hard to ignore.

On the other hand, the Second Hour's second hand is rather cool. Its red tip and lumed dot grab your eye, and then you notice a counterweight shaped like the logo's outline that is large enough to cast a clear shadow on the dial. I dig it, and yet, I can't help thinking it fights with the larger logo already printed on the dial.

When the lights go down, the BGW9 SuperLuminova gets its glow on, illuminating the hands, markers, and bezel insert. You all know I love a glossy ceramic bezel insert filled with lume. Better still, because everyone can use a little more lume, Second Hour will engrave the bezel 0.1mm deeper to squeeze more of the bright stuff in there. While they are at it, they will also lightly brush the ceramic to tone down reflections and improve visibility. That is a noble goal, but knowing that they are de-glossing that ceramic makes me die a little inside. As far as I'm concerned, a shiny finish is the best part of any ceramic bezel. How this compromise will work out remains to be seen. On the other hand, I do appreciate glare reduction on the crystal, and Second Hour has applied multiple layers of inner AR coating to great effect.

Second Hour Gin Clear Diver Pastel Blue lume

The case back bears an embossed illustration of a sea turtle and the model name on its matte surface, as well as the usual specifications engraved into the surrounding ring. I would have probably chosen a picture of something tipsier, but Second Hour wisely steered clear of that. My only real criticism is that letters of the model name are soft, and their edges not well defined. Behind the turtle is a Swiss Sellita SW200, the increasingly common, 26-jewel, 28.8k bph, ETA 2824-2 clone we all know and love.

Second Hour plans to launch the Gin Clear Kickstarter Campaign in late March or early April with Super Early Bird pricing starting at $385, which is a hefty discount on the $570 retail price. The prototype looks promising, although there are still some items to be ironed out. If the Gin Clear Diver suits you, head over to secondhour.com.au and sign up for updates and alerts. ⬩

Today, The Time Bum is talking with Daniel Cheek, founder of Beckett Leather Goods, a small team of American artisans specializing in bespoke watch straps.

TTB: Welcome to The Time Bum! Why don’t you introduce yourself and tell us what makes Beckett Leather Goods special.

DC: At the risk of sounding cliché, we're obsessively dedicated to quality. I've spent the past few years studying the art of leathercraft and strap-making. We use materials from a variety of American and European tanneries and can also upcycle vintage leather goods. Not only are we focused on making quality straps, but we're working to create a prestigious brand.

TTB: I’d like to start with your upcycling service. The Gucci loafer video (below) really shows what goes into your process. I love the way you incorporated things like the red keepers and green stitching to make a more interesting strap that better reflected the original item.

TTB: What found objects make for good raw material for a watch strap?

DC: Almost any leather good can be turned into a strap as long as the leather isn't cracking.

TTB: What sort of items do people send you?

DC: We've been sent old wallets, shoes, purses, baseball gloves, etc. I’ve even turned a vintage suede bota bag into a strap just for fun.

TTB: Have you ever received an item for upcycling and said, “Uh-uh. No way.”

DC: One time, someone asked me to make a strap out of a fake Louis Vuitton bag and I turned them down. I can't in good conscience be associated with a counterfeit item.

TTB: Do you work with fabrics or other materials, or just leather?

Beckett Leather Goods ready-to-wear yellow strap

DC: We work with a lot of different materials including, but not limited to, toad skin, ostrich leg, shoe leather, Louis Vuitton canvas, beaver tail, and baseball glove leather.

TTB: I would imagine that deconstructing a found object involves more work than starting from a new piece of leather. How many hours go into making a typical strap as opposed to an upcycled item?

DC: Upcycle projects do involve a bit more labor than standard leather straps. First, we have to determine what part of the item is most suitable for making a strap. Then we have to try and flatten it and sometimes condition it so it's easier to work with. When a piece of leather has been in the shape of a baseball glove for 20 years, it can be challenging to force it to lay flat and behave like a strap. We make straps in batches, but if we sat down and made a leather strap start to finish it would take 4 hours. An upcycled strap would take 4.5-5 hours.

TTB: Your hand painted straps are pretty wild. What sort of challenges to you find in making those?

DC: The hardest part about making hand-painted straps was finding an artist we felt was talented and creative enough to collaborate with. We ended up choosing Jeff Bertrand, a local Nashville artist. I give him full creative authority on his designs and tell him to just have fun.

TTB: What steps do you take to make sure painted straps stand up to normal use?

DC: We get asked "Will the paint hold up?" pretty often. The answer is yes! Our artist uses a special leather paint that was designed for projects exactly like this. There is no chipping or cracking or fading of the paint.

TTB: I don’t want to neglect your ready-to-wear line. I really dig the way you have incorporated some off-beat colors like turquoise and sky blue. Do you prefer producing products that are a bit unusual?

DC: We've selected a few standard leathers such as brown and black but I'm finding that we enjoy making more special pieces. With bespoke orders, our clients get to create the design. We're starting to view the ready-to-wear collection as a chance to play the role of designer and we're having fun with it. A big portion of our clients wear vibrant watches and want unique straps to pair with them.

TTB: A watch strap guy has got to have some cool watches. What’s on your wrist and in your watch box these days?

This is going to sound crazy, but I only have one watch. It's a Seiko SNXS79K my fiancé gifted me a couple years ago for Christmas. I promise, I'm a watch lover! I used to own a few other pieces: a Nomos Orion, a Nodus Trieste, a Magrette Waterman, and a Seiko SKX. Then I came to the realization that I could sell them and invest in my business. I used the funds to purchase world-class tools for our team and improve quality. I miss my watches every day and hope to someday to re-purchase my Nomos and buy some other cool pieces. A few of my future watch goals are the De Bethune DB25, Ulysse Nardin Freak, Rolex Oyster Perpetual rhodium, F.P. Journe Automatique Lune, and the Patek Nautilus with white dial. If we become the Hermés of straps, I'll revisit this list. Until then, I'll be reinvesting earnings into the business to grow and keep improving in every aspect possible.

TTB: Yes. That does sound crazy but I get it. I just don’t have the willpower to do that myself.

Beckett straps range from $110 to $250 depending on the style for more information, pictures, or to get ideas about a bespoke or upcycled strap of your own, head over to BeckettLeather.com.

I've had several watches pass through Time Bum Headquarters in the past month. They have all been pretty cool, but only one found its way to my wrist, day after day. That watch was the Circula Heritage Hand-wound. For my review, they let me try this lovely, vintage-powered dress watch for a couple of weeks, and it quickly became a weekday favorite.

What makes this watch unique? First of all, it's got a fantastic story. Circula was founded in 1955 in Pforzheim, Germany. Like many smaller brands, it did not survive the quartz crisis; however, in 2018, the original owner's grandson resurrected the company. Circula now produces four classically styled models using Miyota 9015, Ronda 593, or best of all, new original stock, German-made, 1970s vintage, Pforzheimer Uhren-Rohwerke GmbH (PUW) mechanical movements.

PUW was a respected manufacturer back in the day, and after they shut their doors, a private collector secured and stored thousands of unassembled parts. Circula was able to purchase this entire trove, clean the carefully preserved bits, and assemble fresh movements. This cache enabled Circula to build an inventory sufficient for at least two model runs (499 hand-wound and 499 automatic) with abundant spare parts for servicing. So we have a German watch brand, resurrected by the family, making watches with legitimate German movements, assembled in Germany. The provenance is perfect.

Of course, provenance is quickly forgotten if the execution is not up to par. So many reissues and heritage designs are ruined when they are scaled up to suit contemporary expectations. While I recognize that there is a limited market for 34-36mm watches these days, I also understand that the same design elements that made those smaller watches appealing do not always work when they are blown up to 42-44mm, or when a throwback dial is mounted in a bulky case.

Circula has no worries on that front. Offered in both gold and silver, the wafer-thin, stainless steel case wears a combination of brushed and polished finishes and measures a tidy 39mm wide, 45.5mm long, and only 9.9mm thick from the case back to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. It sits perfectly on my 6.75" wrist, tucks under a buttoned shirt cuff, and is a natural choice when you are wearing a suit. It strikes just the right balance between modern wrist presence and more petite vintage proportions. The crystal is both anti-reflective and fingerprint resistant coated. Water resistance is 50m, which is more than enough for this kind of watch.

Pretty as the case may be, the crown is the real star here. Diamond-shaped, notched on only the outermost edge, and signed with an image of a balance wheel, it looks lovely while offering easy operation – always a plus for a hand winder. I know this is usually the part of the review where I bemoan its size ask why the crown could not be flatter, and yet, I can't. I like this one. It may be a tad sporty for a dress watch, but it is not so large that it seems out of place, and I appreciate the thought that went into its design. It suits the Heritage quite well.

The dial is clean and tasteful, featuring applied and polished markers; Arabic at 12 and 6 with bars for the remainder. Circula also offers the watch in blue and black, but only the white dial has these beautiful blue polished hands. They are curved to fit, and much to my delight, they are filled with C1 lume. Not enough for a dive-quality wrist torch, but more than adequate when the lights get low. Complementing the blue hands is a blue dot index that surrounds the perimeter.

Regular readers know that I am a stickler for typeface, font, and the sizing of same. Few things annoy me more than a dial cluttered with unnecessary text or ungainly logotypes. Circula uses the original 1955 logo, so it doesn't just look vintage; it is vintage. It is also legible, stylish, distinctive, and properly proportioned, tucking neatly between the 11 and 1 o'clock markers. The only other text is a simple "17 Rubis" in the lower half, and finally, "Made in Germany tucked beneath the six. This is a beautifully balanced dial. Every element has room to breathe, and those simple pops of blue make it fun.

Flipping the case over, you will be able to see the PUW 561 movement through the exhibition window. While perhaps not as decorated as some, it is nicely finished, and given how uncommon this movement is today, watch geeks will certainly want to have a look. It has 17 jewels, a 21.6k bph vibration rate, a 40-hour power reserve, and Incabloc protection. For eye candy, you'll find a Geneva striped bridge engraved with the serial number (also found on the case back ring).

Buyers may choose from one of three straps: black leather, brown leather, and the anthracite suede shown here. All are 20 mm wide with quick release spring bars, and a matching signed buckle. Naturally, they are made in Germany.

The Circula Heritage Hand-wound is a charming piece of mid-century modernism made all the better by its reborn, home-grown movement. It is available directly from CirculaWatches.com for €790 or €664 for those of us not subject to VAT (about $750 US). I highly recommend it. ⬩

This sponsored post is a paid advertisement. All text and photos were provided by the brand.

From darkness to light: the flying luminescent date watch

World premiere: an innovative watch with a luminescent flying date

Based in Porrentruy, in the Swiss Jura, since 2006, Louis Chevrolet Swiss Watches have marketed watches designed and manufactured in its own factory. The name Louis Chevrolet pays tribute to the eponymous man of Swiss origin who founded the Chevrolet Motor Car Company in 1911. The watch manufacturer is located just a few kilometers from the place where Louis Chevrolet spent his childhood.

Louis Chevrolet: innovative concepts as a daily leitmotif

Faithful to its leitmotif, which is to constantly seek new, innovative concepts, in order to make their name stand out from the mass of small watch brands on the market, on March 11th, Louis Chevrolet will launch its new crowdfunding campaign on the Kickstarter platform.

For what purpose? To present its latest pending patent: the flying date, combined with another world exclusive, a calendar and an indication of the date, entirely luminescent in the dark.

Among the pioneers of Swiss watchmaking exclusively for sale through the digital channel, Louis Chevrolet seeks to integrate into its watches a judicious balance between innovation, design and quality, all at attractive prices. This recipe enables watchmaking enthusiasts to benefit from cutting-edge technical innovations, while guaranteeing the most reasonable and suitable prices.

"Selling our watches only online or at our factory allows us to adopt a fair pricing policy that is advantageous for our customers. We cover production, marketing and administrative costs before re-injecting the balance into research and development. On products of similar range, we can be up to 50% cheaper than our competitors." rejoices André Saunier, CEO of Louis Chevrolet Swiss Watches.

What is the flying date? This is a 360 degrees movement of the indication of the day of the month on the watch dial. The date indication therefore "flies" around it. This is an original, aesthetic, and technical way to display the evolution of time from day to day. This innovation now also makes it possible to integrate the calendar directly on the watch dial and to break out of the conventional use of it.

In order to adapt the system to this new collection, modifications to the watch movements used are necessary, and carried out within the factory.

The combination of these innovative concepts presented in preview, reverses the reading of the date on the watch. The circular indication of the date on the dial makes it possible to affix luminous material on the date disc, on the calendar numbers as well as on the reflector. Thanks to these innovations, the legibility of the date is increased by 50% compared to the standard on the movements used.

Night vision

The flying date concept makes it possible to add another innovation to the models that will soon be available during the watch brand's crowdfunding campaign: an entirely luminescent calendar.

The fact that the calendar numbers are integrated directly on the dial, and therefore continuously visible, allows them to be filled with luminous material (SLN C1). The luminescent indexes as well as the reflector complete this luminescent dial.

A “vintage automobile” inspired crowdfunding campaign

In order to complete its project, Louis Chevrolet will launch a crowdfunding campaign on March 11 on the Kickstarter platform. This new collection will then offer 2 versions of watches (quartz and automatic) bringing together the brand's two latest innovations. In tribute to the eponymous man, the collection will reveal historical references linked to the automotive world such as the honeycomb of a Camaro grille or even perforated leather straps reminiscent of the leather gloves of racing drivers.

During the 30 days of the campaign, contributors will be rewarded with exclusive benefits.

The base price is set at CHF 358 (USD 360), and increasing according to the chosen design and movement.

More information will follow on www.louischevrolet.com and on the Kickstarter campaign page https://bit.ly/2uUduqM.

Louis Chevrolet Swiss Watches
En Roche de Mars 10
2900 Porrentruy
SWITZERLAND

info@louischevrolet.com

+41 32 365 38 08

Review and photos by Mike Razak

I used to own a watch from Australian brand Melbourne Watch Company. A Rose Gold Portsea Calendar. It was a wonderful watch that I simply didn’t wear often enough, so had to part with. In fact, it was a watch with a bit of sentimental value for me: I bought it from Chris Vail (of NTH watches) at my first DC Microbrand Meet-up (now the District Time Show), where I also won an Isofrane strap that was handed to me by the Time Bum. And a year later, I started writing for him. And on top of that, it was the watch that led to me forming one of my closest friendships in the watch community (not with The Time Bum, though he’s alright, too). So, Melbourne has a special place in my watch-loving heart. But their offerings aside from the Portsea series have always fallen flat for me. And so, it was with some uncertainty that I agreed to go hands on with the Melbourne Hawthorn Chrono.

Given its dimensions, I was quite pleased with how the Hawthorn wears. Its 42mm diameter is usually towards my upper end but is held in check by the use of 22mm lugs (more on those below). At no point did I feel it overwhelmed my 7in wrist. In fact, to the contrary, I found it sat comfortably on whether on its bracelet or a strap. A perfectly sized crown is at 3 o’clock and is flanked unassuming chrono pushers, which operate easily and with a satisfying click. At 11mm thick, the crown and pushers are usable even while on wrist, something not all watches—and certainly not all chronos—can boast. And I know I said 11mm, but something about this watch makes it look and feel closer to 12 or 12.5mm. The crown screws down, which you may think is great, but is a bit baffling given the mere 50 M of water resistance. That level of seal certainly does not demand a screw-down system, and an extra gasket could’ve gotten the job done just as well.

There’s little fanfare to the case: everything is brush-finished except for a small ring at the base of the steel bezel. As you hopefully can tell, though, the finishing is well done and features sharp, crisp edges. I normally have a strong preference for a more exciting case design—chamfers, swoops, contrast, unicorns—but in this case (Ha!), Melbourne made the right call by not fussing about. The simple case allows the dial (under a sapphire crystal) to steal the show, as it deserves.

The dial of the Hawthorn is all about texture and layers. The blue is a great hue (it also come sin green, black, grey, and white, though only the blue, green, and white catch my eye). You’ve got a smooth sloped chapter ring with minute markers, a flat hour ring with applied indices, and then the main dial, which features a carbon fiber-like texture, and radial subdials (with pie pan depressions for the subs at 3 and 9 o’clock). So yeah, there’s a lot going on. But it’s all balanced. Nothing feels out of place, and the decision to keep it simple with blue and white was a good one. With all this texture, any extra flashes could overwhelm things. Hands are simple swords, with a delightful red chrono hand providing all the pop we need, and the trademark Melbourne “M” as the counterbalance.

My first impression of the dial as a whole was one of wanting badly to love it but feeling unable to. The issue I’ve zeroed in on is the use of the carbon-fiber texture on the main dial. This finish is often used to convey a sportiness and exoticism that isn’t inherent, such as in budget sports cars. That ersatz glamour leaves the dial a bit hollow feeling for me. But I urge you to decide for yourself, as this is a very subjective interpretation, and the dial is by no means bad. To be sure, all the textures complement each other, rather than clash. And the watch is legible day and night thanks to its simple color scheme and adequate lume (though the indices shine a bit brighter than the hands).

Flipping the watch over, the façade of a building is intricately etched onto a screwdown caseback. If I told you Hawthorn is an inner suburb of Melbourne, you may think, “Oh, what lovely Hawthorn-located building is upon my caseback?” And you’d be justified in such thinking, but wrong no less. The building at hand is in fact the Flinders Street Station. It’s a lovely building and some suggest it’s a must-see attraction in Melbourne. But it’s also 5.84km (it is Australia, after all) from Hawthorn and that’s if you take the chopper¹. Does the same image grace the back of Melbourne’s Flinders model? It does.

Under the misleading screwdown caseback, a Seiko VK63 mecha-quartz provides the driving power. While you can turn up your nose at quartz all you want, the sweep chronograph hand makes this highly enjoyable. The only tick-tick-ticking you’ll have to watch is from the subseconds at 9 o’clock, and that’s highly tolerable. In fact, in my experience, if it’s got sweep, quartz chronos are A-Okay. The chrono only times to 60 minutes, but once Lesley Stahl is done, what do you even have to time?

While the movement is unjeweled, it is serviceable, though most watchmakers would simply do a replacement for you. This VK—like all VKs—features a date, and you’ve noticed by now that the watch does not. While not my preference, no-date quartz chronos are nonexistent, so here we are. You’ll need to deal with a dead crown position or buy a different watch. But I can’t make all your decisions for you.

Let’s talk about this bracelet. Its pretty good. The 22mm bracelet wears with adequate comfort—it’s there, it’s a bracelet, it’s metal, you’ll feel it. But it’s not bothersome as some cheaper bracelets can be. It has two polished center links that are nestled between brushed components. It creates a fluidity when it meets the case, as the brushed is against brushed, and the polished abuts the thin polished ring at the base of the bezel. Similarly, the branded flip-lock clasp is brushed on the body and polished on the flip-lock. I like the overall aesthetic, and the bit of grooving just beneath where the flip-lock rests.

Though the bracelet is a cinch to take off the watch, getting it back on is a bit of a struggle due to the location of the lug holes. If you look at the shape of the lugs, they come to a point of sorts at their ends, and its just near there that Melbourne has situated the lug holes. The issue here is that it makes it more difficult than lug holes which you can just drop the bracelet straight down between the lugs. Not impossible, but if you’re an inveterate strap swapper like I am, makes the bracelet far less appealing, and perhaps the watch, too. But I made it work through much swearing, and the watch paired nicely with a good array of straps, including my trusty Barton Elite Silicone.

Up top I questioned whether the Melbourne Hawthorn would be the Melbourne to reinvigorate my affection for a brand that I’ve felt indifferent about for some time. I don’t know if reinvigorated would be the word I’d choose. Aside from the signature “M” counterbalance on the red chrono hand, nothing about the Hawthorn got my motor revving too much, but it’s an undeniably well made watch, with good finishing and an engaging dial. At $327, it’s not a bad deal for someone just getting into the watch game who wants to try out that chronograph lifestyle before wading into the higher-end market. The watch is available on Melbourne’s website now, in all five colors. You never know: maybe you’ll buy a Hawthorn, win a strap, start writing watch reviews, and make a few new friends.⬩

¹I’d be remiss not to tell you that it’s only an 8 minute train ride from The Flinders Street Station to the Hawthorn Station, by way of the Alamein, Belgrave, or Lilydale line.

It seems The Time Bum was good this year because I found a Werenbach Leonov waiting for me under the tree on Christmas morning. The fact that I purchased it, wrapped it, and placed it there is entirely beside the point. It was exactly what I wanted, and I have worn it every day for the past week. What makes this watch so cool? Three things: space stuff, excellent proportions, and top-notch graphic design.

Werenbach watches are made from Soyuz rocket parts salvaged from the steppes surrounding the Baikonur Cosmodrome launch site in Kazakhstan. Rockets are single-use items, shedding their fuel tanks and propulsion systems in stages as they deliver their payload to orbit. The Werenbach team collects these discarded fairings, engines, booster shells, etc. and, in what must be an extraordinary feat of bureaucratic navigation, brings them back to Switzerland to turn them in to watch parts. They currently offer three collections: the quartz Mach 33 with rocket fragments embedded in the dial, the automatic Leonov with whole dials cut from rocket skin, and the Soyuz automatic 3-handers and chronographs with cases made from engines or shells. Prices range from a couple hundred dollars for a Mach 33 to several thousand for a Soyuz chronograph. I chose a mid-range ($1,151) Leonov Model 2 dual-crown launch sequencer with a gray booster shell dial and took advantage of their 25% off holiday sale (code XMAS25 and still active as of today).

The Leonov's stainless steel case is 40mm wide and 50mm long. It is fitted with two sapphire crystals (domes in front and flat in the rear) and is listed as being 14mm thick, although the precision instruments here at Time Bum Labs got that last measurement only by including the feet of the lugs. From the case back to the crystal, it is a far more manageable 13mm. A combination of a brushed top and matte sides enhances the Leonov's industrial appeal. Engraved on the left side is the symbol for hydrogen that was included in the Pioneer plaque.

The crowns are curious as they are two different designs. The 2 o'clock crown for the internal bezel is coin-edged. The 3 o'clock time-setter has fat flutes and is signed. Why not make them the same? I have no idea, yet somehow, it works, coming off as more of an eccentricity than anything else.

Werenbach Leonov Model 2 booster shell crowns

With its sheer sides, angular lugs, and chunky guards, it projects the aura of a tool watch, although perhaps not as toolish as one might think. I would have expected a 100m water resistance rating given the fact that both crowns screw down, but recall that this is not a diving watch. 50m is on par for most pilot and field watches, and more than sufficient for almost anyone's daily use, the proliferation of Giant Squid-depth dive watches notwithstanding.

Werenbach Leonov Model 2 booster shell case back

The backside offers a view of the Swiss STP 11-1 automatic movement. This is a 26-jewel ETA 2824 clone, nicely finished with perlage and a signed custom rotor. You will find more than the usual specs engraved back here. Because Werenbach collects its space junk shortly after launch, they can accurately identify the rocket and mission from which these parts came. Along with the usual case back specs of water resistance and serial number, the Werenbach also states that its material came from the Soyuz FG rocket that propelled Flight Mission MS-09, sending three astronauts to the ISS on June 6, 2018.

Which brings us to the most unusual part of the watch, the dial. Werenbach uses several different parts of the Soyuz shell, jettisoned at various stages, each with its own character. This dial was cut from the inside of an aluminum booster shell, part of the first stage of the rocket and one of the first items to fall to earth after attaining an altitude of between 46-85 km, which, depending on whose definition you follow, is more or less the edge of space. Its surface is left as-is is, so whatever nicks, scratches, marks, or discolorations it picked up in its travels remain, and no two are alike.

Werenbach Leonov Model 2 booster shell launch sequencer wrist shot

The layout is clean and straightforward, consisting of lumed bars and a printed index. They have truncated the 3 o'clock marker to make way for a porthole date window. The 9 o'clock marker is similarly shortened to make way for the "Soyuz Mat.'[erial] engraving. I'm generally agnostic about date complications, but I do love them when they are done well. This one is ringed and countersunk, which shows off the thickness of the dial and reveals a glint of fresh aluminum that finds its match in the engraving on the other side. You can appreciate the raw material even more by inspecting the actual block of rocket skin from which your dial was cut, included in the packaging.

Werenbach Leonov Model 2 booster shell certificate and original material

At 12 o'clock, we find the last shortened marker, this time making way for the Werenbach crossed arrows logo - and, boy, do they need the space because there are seven lines of text to follow. Regular readers know I tend to be critical of wordy dials. There is really only so much information anyone needs on there, and I have never once looked at a watch and thought, "You what this needs? More words." Well, the Leonov proves to be the exception to my rule. They packed a ton of information onto here in a manner that keeps it legible while becoming an essential feature of the watch's face.

The text is printed in a lightweight, sans-serif typeface. Up top is the "Spaceborn" label (the only exception as it is slightly bolder and has more tracking), then the specific rocket material, and its coordinates. Below the pinion is "Launch Sequencer" (referring to the bezel, which I'll discuss next). The final three lines list the three stages of rocket separation.

Like I said, it's a lot in a small space, but the information is unique to the Werenbach's composition, nothing is crowded, all is legible, and the stacked text ends up working quite well as a design element. It could have come right out of the 1975 NASA Graphics Standards Manual. I was instantly reminded of precision instruments, warehouse-sized IBM computers, and maybe a dash of "Doctor Strangelove" war room.

The Launch Sequencer index was another huge selling point for me. The bidirectional bezel indicates time to separation for each stage after liftoff. As the entire process unfolds in just 8:49 minutes, the remainder of the ring shows the approximate altitudes achieved by each stage. You can use this handy tool when viewing a Soyuz launch, or you can just set "lift-off" as you would the top triangle on any other movable bezel devoid of other useful markings. But let's face it, the sequencer bezel is just a nifty curiosity. While it has little practical value, I must admit that in my life, it no different than tachymeter, a moon phase, or any number of other interesting but unused functions on my watches. It is all about character, and the Leonov has it in abundance.

In keeping with the industrial aesthetic, the handset is a clean pair of long, black batons, filled with lume from the 3/4 mark. The only decorative flourish is the open counterweight on the second hand that mirrors the shape of the hour markers. Both the hands and the markers have an ample application of SuperLuminova for an excellent nighttime glow.

Werenbach Leonov Model 2 booster shell lume

Werenbach offers several strap options, including leather, rubber, nylon NATO, and an engineer bracelet. I know I always say to buy the bracelet, but the absence of fitted end links makes this one less desirable for me. Instead, I opted for the black textile strap. As a stand-alone accessory, it sells for a steep $85.49, and I can understand why. It is a heavy nylon weave with great texture, quick release pins, and leather keepers and reinforcement from the adjustment holes to the tip, which is stamped with the Werenbach logo. The underside is rubberized leather printed with two graphs, trajectory on one side, and the solar system on the other. An engraved buckle finishes it off. It is a top-quality piece all around and I love the fact that Werenbach allows you to choose from three lengths for a perfect fit. My only gripe is that it is quite stiff out of the box and takes some time to develop a comfortable curvature, but that's a small price to pay for such a unique strap.

Of course, my enthusiasm for the strap did not stop me from fitting a different one. I figured the arrival of my rocket watch provided the perfect justification for trying a NASA strap. I ordered mine from CheapestNATOStraps.com for a mere $9.95. Designed initially to secure watches over the gargantuan arms of an external vehicular activity space suit, these straps consist of a single-pass strip of Velcro that folds back over a metal loop to stick to itself. Cheapest NATO offers a suede-accented model that is considerably shorter and a tad more luxurious than the original. The system works perfectly. Once in place, that long strip of hook-and-loop is not coming apart until you do it yourself, and there is more than ample length to wrap it over any wrist. I liked it, and it is an ideal match for a watch like this, but I'll warn you that Velcro will grab all kinds of loose fabric, so I found myself continually picking odd bits of fuzz and fluff off its trailing edge.

Werenbach Leonov Model 2 booster shell on Cheapest NATO Straps suede NASA strap

I recall when Werenbach's Kickstarter campaign was still underway, a friend joked about how someone was selling a "rocket watch" and asked if anyone would buy this thing if it did not have that gimmick. I said I would. I agreed that a watch made of salvaged bits could easily have been little more than a novelty. Instead, the Werenbach Leonov is a cleverly executed design in and of itself, and the fact that it was fashioned from the skin of an honest-to-god, shot-into-space rocket brings it all together.

I am very happy with my prurchase. The raw-looking medium gray dial has the perfect scientific instrument look I initially fell for when Werenbach first introduced the collection, but there is so much more to choose from: orange engine cladding, burned booster shell, yellow hatch skin, decal-clad faring... it's all fascinating stuff and well worth a look. If the Leonov's space-race era looks and unique origin appeals to you, then head over to Werenbach.ch. You won't be disappointed. ⬩

Werenbach Leonov Model 2 booster shell launch sequencer

Review and photos by Mike Razak

I used to own a watch from the Australian brand Melbourne Watch Company. A Rose Gold Portsea Calendar. It was a wonderful watch that I simply didn’t wear often enough, so had to part with. In fact, it was a watch with a bit of sentimental value for me: I bought it from Chris Vail (of NTH watches) at my first DC Microbrand Meet-up (now the District Time Show), where I also won an Isofrane strap that was handed to me by the Time Bum. And a year later, I started writing for him. And on top of that, it was the watch that led to me forming one of my closest friendships in the watch community (not with The Time Bum, though he’s alright, too). So, Melbourne has a special place in my watch-loving heart. But their offerings aside from the Portsea series have always fallen flat for me. And so, it was with some uncertainty that I agreed to go hands-on with the Melbourne Hawthorn Chrono.

Given its dimensions, I was quite pleased with how the Hawthorn wears. Its 42mm diameter is usually towards my upper end but is held in check by the use of 22mm lugs (more on those below). At no point did I feel it overwhelmed my 7in wrist. In fact, to the contrary, I found it sat comfortably on whether on its bracelet or a strap. A perfectly sized crown is at 3 o’clock and is flanked unassuming chrono pushers, which operate easily and with a satisfying click. At 11mm thick, the crown and pushers are usable even while on the wrist, something not all watches—and certainly not all chronos—can boast. And I know I said 11mm, but something about this watch makes it look and feel closer to 12 or 12.5mm. The crown screws down, which you may think is great but is a bit baffling given the mere 50 M of water resistance. That level of seal certainly does not demand a screw-down system, and an extra gasket could’ve gotten the job done just as well.

The dial of the Hawthorn is all about texture and layers. The blue is a great hue (it also comes in green, black, grey, and white, though only the blue, green, and white catch my eye). You’ve got a smooth sloped chapter ring with minute markers, a flat hour ring with applied indices, and then the main dial, which features a carbon fiber-like texture, and radial subdials (with pie pan depressions for the subs at 3 and 9 o’clock). So yeah, there’s a lot going on. But it’s all balanced. Nothing feels out of place, and the decision to keep it simple with blue and white was a good one. With all this texture, any extra flashes could overwhelm things. Hands are simple swords, with a delightful red chrono hand providing all the pop we need, and the trademark Melbourne “M” as the counterbalance.

Flipping the watch over, the façade of a building is intricately etched onto a screwdown caseback. If I told you Hawthorn is an inner suburb of Melbourne, you may think, “Oh, what lovely Hawthorn-located building is upon my caseback?” And you’d be justified in such thinking, but wrong no less. The building at hand is, in fact, the Flinders Street Station. It’s a lovely building and some suggest it’s a must-see attraction in Melbourne. But it’s also 5.84km (it is Australia, after all) from Hawthorn and that’s if you take the chopper¹. Does the same image grace the back of Melbourne’s Flinders model? It does.

Under the misleading screwdown caseback, a Seiko VK63 mecha-quartz provides the driving power. While you can turn up your nose at quartz all you want, the sweep chronograph hand makes this highly enjoyable. The only tick-tick-ticking you’ll have to watch is from the sub-seconds at 9 o’clock, and that’s highly tolerable. In fact, in my experience, if it’s got sweep, quartz chronos are A-Okay. The chrono only times to 60 minutes, but once Lesley Stahl is done, what do you even have to time?

Let’s talk about this bracelet. It's pretty good. The 22mm bracelet wears with adequate comfort—it’s there, it’s a bracelet, it’s metal, you’ll feel it. But it’s not bothersome as some cheaper bracelets can be. It has two polished center links that are nestled between brushed components. It creates a fluidity when it meets the case, as the brushed is against brushed, and the polished abuts the thin polished ring at the base of the bezel. Similarly, the branded flip-lock clasp is brushed on the body and polished on the flip-lock. I like the overall aesthetic, and the bit of grooving just beneath where the flip-lock rests.

Though the bracelet is a cinch to take off the watch, getting it back on is a bit of a struggle due to the location of the lug holes. If you look at the shape of the lugs, they come to a point of sorts at their ends, and it's just near there that Melbourne has situated the lug holes. The issue here is that it makes it more difficult than lug holes which you can just drop the bracelet straight down between the lugs. Not impossible, but if you’re an inveterate strap swapper like I am, makes the bracelet far less appealing, and perhaps the watch, too. But I made it work through much swearing, and the watch paired nicely with a good array of straps, including my trusty Barton Elite Silicone.

Up top I questioned whether the Melbourne Hawthorn would be the Melbourne to reinvigorate my affection for a brand that I’ve felt indifferent about for some time. I don’t know if reinvigorated would be the word I’d choose. Aside from the signature “M” counterbalance on the red chrono hand, nothing about the Hawthorn got my motor revving too much, but it’s an undeniably well-made watch, with good finishing and an engaging dial. At $327, it’s not a bad deal for someone just getting into the watch game who wants to try out that chronograph lifestyle before wading into the higher-end market. The watch is available on Melbourne’s website now, in all five colors. You never know: maybe you’ll buy a Hawthorn, win a strap, start writing watch reviews, and make a few new friends.⬩

¹I’d be remiss not to tell you that it’s only an 8 minute train ride from The Flinders Street Station to the Hawthorn Station, by way of the Alamein, Belgrave, or Lilydale line.

Kingsbury Watch Co. recently sent me an MS2 Platoon Automatic Field Watch. You may remember it from an earlier paid announcement, but this was my first chance for a hands-on review. We have had quite a few field watches through Time Bum headquarters this year, at a wide range of price points. The Platoon comes in on the lower end, at just $179.

Measuring 41mm wide, 47.5mm long, and 11.5mm thick, the Platoon is a comfortable size that fits well on my 6.75” wrist. I appreciate its modest proportions. While I’d never wear it to the office, it is nice to be able to wear it with a casual button-down shirt.

Field watches need to be able to weather actual field use, and the Platoon has no issues on that front. The stainless steel case features a sapphire crystal, 100m water resistance rating, and a sturdy Miyota 82S5 automatic movement with a small seconds indicator. While not as silky smooth as the popular 9000 series, the 21.6k bph, hand winding 82S5 is more than capable and a true dateless unit, so those of you who hate phantom crown positions may rejoice. Kingsbury’s choice is curious in that this is the gilt, open heart version, a fancy unit for a field watch. You can get a look at the gold through the display case back.

Kingsbury MS2 Platoon gold movement case back

The movement is mounted with the subdial at 6, which places the signed, push-down crown in the somewhat odd position of 4:15. If you can look past its position relative to the dial (I can), you will find it is attractive, proportionately sized, easy to use, and by virtue of its low position, out of the way.

Kingsbury offers the Platoon with black or green dials, in brushed steel, or black or rose gold PVD cases. The review sample was green on gold. It certainly looks attractive, at first glance you might mistake it for clean bronze, but I question the utility of plating a field watch. You expect a tool watch to get bumped and scraped, and while well-worn black cases have a certain wabi-sabi charm, to my eye, worn gold just looks shabby.

The dial’s layout recalls those of classic military field watches, offering 12-hour markers as well as a 24-hour index on the outer track, and gold baton hands. Bright yellow “home plate” frames highlight the four primary hours on the 24-hour index, offering an appealing accent against the matte green surface. The markers and hands are lumed.

Kingsbury offers the Platoon on perforated leather, or the sturdy, leather-backed canvas shown here. The 22mm strap features quick-release pins and a signed buckle. I was impressed with the color match to the dial (no easy feat with green) and the relative pliability of the heavy fabric. It is neatly made and unlikely to fray they way unfinished canvas edges often do.

Overall, the Kingsbury MS2 Platoon is a sound unit that would make a fine weekend tool watch. If the green and gold is not to your liking, a more traditional steel or black one might do the trick. Whichever you choose, it will only cost $179, and that is tough to beat. ⬩

Every so often, a watch will sneak up on me. I'll see it and think, "Oh, that's nice," but then, as I wear it, I begin to notice its details, balance, and versatility and realize that what had at first seemed merely pleasant, is truly something special. Such was the case with the Defakto Transit I recently borrowed for this review. "Oh yeah, the German modernist watches," I thought, "that'll be cool." After about a week of wrist time with the Transit, I must admit that I had wildly underrated Defakto. This is a damn near perfect watch.

In 2009, Rafael Ickler founded Defakto in Berlin in 2009, adding his own unique branch to nearly a century of Ickler family watchmaking. While the brand is a one-man operation, the components are manufactured in Ickler's Pforzheim factory. The brand is young and fresh, but its roots go very deep indeed.

A quick look at the Defakto catalog reveals a clear design theme throughout the line. The watches are clean and sparse with black and white graphics that maximize legibility. It is impossible to miss the Bauhaus influence. There is nothing fussy here, each piece is highly functional, which is not to say they aren't attractive too. It's just that their beauty conveys a certain gravity as well.

Raphael created the Transit to celebrate Defakto's tenth anniversary, and he knocked it right out of the park, winning the 2020 German Design Award for product design and luxury goods. Its three-piece, stainless steel case is 40mm wide, 44mm long, and 9.8mm thick from the case back to the crystal. The sides are flat but the way its curved bezel meets that tall, sapphire dome lends it an almost sensual roundness while the matte black dial, anti-reflective coating on the crystal, and fine matte brushing all around sober it up. The lugs are short and tightly tapered; the crown, modest and unsigned. After all, if you are making a minimalist watch, why would you add extraneous decoration? I'd describe it as a modern incarnation of a traditional 1960's vintage case.

Rafael describes the Transit as "extravagant" which should give you an idea of just how seriously he takes minimalism because at first glance it is quite the opposite: there are no numbers, everything is printed in white, the hands are simple batons, the only text on the dial is the brand name, and even that is optional. Like many things, extravagance is relative.

But take a second look, the Transit's curved hands are black and filled with lume, but only about ¾ of the way down the shaft and they have no tails, so all three appear to float over the black dial. Now check out the markers, long and thick. They are far bolder than those of other Defakto watches. The hours are fatter than the minutes, and you will notice the hands are exactly the same shape as their markers, which makes the even slimmer red second hand seem that much sharper. Turn off the lights and, boom! It's SuperLuminova time; light red for the second hand and BGW9 for the rest. Again, not at all what I was expecting. Would I call this meticulous attention to detail extravagant? I don't know, but it is mighty impressive.

Inside is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic. You know the one: 25 jewels, 28.8k bph, Incabloc protection, etc. It's hard to find fault with this choice. The movement is beloved by watch nerds everywhere and easily serviced. Wave to it through the display case back and move on. While you are back there, you can appreciate the Limited Edition engraving, "10 Jahre Defakto Uhren Manufaktur." You will also notice the 3 ATM water resistance rating. That is strictly dress watch territory but it is highly unlikely that you would take your Transit underwater. If that low rating keeps it slim, that's a trade worth making.

If I have a nit to pick with this watch, it's the strap. Black, unstitched, and thin, it is a sound choice for such a watch as this, but so very bland. A more interesting choice of leather or a bit of black stitching would have improved it considerably. Also, while I appreciate the signed buckle, I wish it matched the head. But that is it. That is all I can bring myself to complain about; the strap could be more exciting. That's it.

The Defakto sells for €925, or €777 ($869 US) for buyers who don't have to pay VAT. It is not cheap, but for the money, you are getting a brilliant modern design, top-notch construction, and a watch you might very well fall in love with. For more, see defakto-watches.com.

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