The Time Bum

Review and photos by Mike Razak

The ama divers of Japan may only number in the high double digits these days, but less than 100 years ago, over 6000 of these skin divers—almost exclusively women—could be seen plying their trade, diving off the coast of Japan for pearls. Rarely diving with any gear—often only clad in a loincloth—these legendary “sea women” would dive to the bottom of the waters and collect abalone. While today their numbers have dwindled significantly, AlbanyWatches’ AMA Diver seeks to pay tribute to them. While the brand name pays tribute to the owner’s father’s roots in Western Australia, the skin diver-style watch salutes the history and continued feats of the Japanese pearl divers.

While influenced by a league of women, the watch is decidedly sized for more masculine wrists (though current trends may call this into question). At 41.5mm wide, 12.8mm thick, and 48mm lug-to-lug, the watch wears well on my 7-inch wrist. As is true of the skin diver style, the watch itself features minimal curvature to accommodate the wrist, and so lies rather flat; the moderate lug-to-lug, however, means little to no overhang, which can be an issue on ill-proportioned watches of this type.

The real stars of the brushed case are the screw-down crown and the 120-click bezel. Both are deep-grooved and exceptionally easy to operate. The bezel features a sapphire insert with lumed numbers and pip, while the crown features the Albany cormorant logo on a white background and allows for 300M of water resistance. The skin diver style is intentionally simple with little room for flair, and it’s executed here to near perfection, with clean, crisp edges and great operability.

An anti-reflection domed sapphire crystal shields the wonderful fumé dial. (The crystal causes some very slight distortion around the edge, but nothing that affects legibility.) I’ll actually call this dial fauxmé, as it’s simply colored--the blue is printed, the black is applied by hand--to achieve a fumé-like effect. While it’s absolutely charming, there’s no variation in different light, as you’d see with true fumé, like on a Moser or even the Hamilton Intra-Matic. I still like it. A lot. The gradient is perfect for a dive watch, with the slow fade from blue to black resembling the view from the depths looking up, as an ama might see while resurfacing. Just as the bezel and crown are easy to operate, so too is the dial easy to read. Stark white indices plot out the hours, with sharp white hands and a fun harpoon-shaped seconds hand that traces the periphery of the dial; the chunky hour hand is reminiscent of old plongeur-style divers, like the Omega Ploprof.

All the white you see is BGW9 Super-LumiNova, and it sucks in the light and spits it back out with good effect; I’d say overall the lume is average or slightly above, though the bezel lume and seconds hand could stand to be brighter. The cardinal hours, minute, and a portion of the second hand feature teal accents that match the minute hashes on the dial and the bezel and complement the blue fauxmé. On the dial is the Albany name and logo, as well as the stylized AMA model name and depth rating (I’m a fan of the dial font, by the way). At the edge of the dial, in the same teal, is a thin band that bisects the indices. I love when hands are well proportioned, and that’s the case here: the seconds hand reaches to the point of bisection, the minute to the inner edge of the thin band, and the hour to the inner edge of the cardinal hour markers. Top work.

Rolling the watch over, the caseback features a wonderful representation of a traditional ama diver: basket slung over the shoulder, with goggles and bottoms, this is how an ama would have worked until more puritanical forces led to them, in the 20^thcentury, to wear sheer white coveralls. The etching is crisp and artistic, without causing any roughness on the wrist. Obligatory SpecsText™ surrounds the depiction.

Unscrew the caseback and you’ll find a reliable Miyota 9039. Released in 2018, it fast became a microbrand and watchnerd favorite, finally providing a no-date alternative, meaning no dead position on the crown. The movement features 24 jewels—which are shiny—hacking, handwinding, and a 42-hour power reserve. And it’s easily serviced by any competent watchmaker.

Let’s move on to straps, shall we? The AMA features 20mm drilled lugs and is available on either a beads of rice bracelet with fitted end-links and a branded clasp or a two-stitch grey leather strap. Both are of good quality and provided little in the way of ranting or raving. My review piece also included a green NATO of exceptional quality. While not one of the much-loved seatbelt style NATOs, it was rugged, albeit stiff. While at first, I expected the strap to be uncomfortable, the sturdiness made sure it sat in place with little shifting, as can happen with more supple bands. With three strap options included (all orders will come with the NATO and the leather strap), I didn’t have much need to try out my own straps, so I only strapped on a burgundy perlon, and with great success.

The thing about skin divers is, if done well, they are utterly unremarkable. As I mentioned above, they are flat, simple watches. There’s a beauty in simplicity and the good execution of basic ideas—and it’s that beauty that the AMA achieves. The bezel and the crown are just superb, and the dial, coloring, and caseback art add a bit of playfulness. In addition to the navy fumé dial, the watch is also available in a black and “black pearl;” I’d skip the black and go for the pearl, which is real mother of pearl from the sea.

With a preorder price of $375 ($420 on BOR bracelet), you get more than your money’s worth—especially if you get the pearl dial (can you tell I wish I’d had that for review?). If you’re in the market for a no-nonsense diver with the perfect dash of flair, you’ll be quite satisfied with the Albany Watches AMA diver. It’s available for preorder now on the brand’s site for delivery in July (coronavirus permitting). And if all of the above wasn’t enough, a portion of the proceeds will go to the Sea Change Project, a South African non-profit dedicated to preserving the country’s marine environment. You get to buy a watch and feel good about it, too!⬩

Someone must have declared it "Field Watch Year" when I wasn't looking because the BOLDR Venture Automatic is the fifth such watch we have reviewed this year, and it's only March. Not that this is a bad thing, mind you. Given the constant stream of divers that come through Time Bum Headquarters (ten in the same period), a few field watches make for a nice break, especially when they are as well-conceived as the Venture. For this review, BOLDR gave me the option to keep the titanium and white Sand Storm sample. I believe I will (thanks guys!) because I've worn it every day for the past week.

This is the second iteration of the Venture to pass my way. I reviewed the earlier model in October 2018 and loved its modest size, titanium case, and crazy cheap price ($141 retail). My only caveat was its ETA 802.102 quartz movement, which I knew would put some people off. As you probably surmised from the title, the new Venture packs a mechanical movement, the tried and true Seiko NH35A. You know the one: 24 jewels, 21.6k bph, hacking, and hand-winding. It also has Diashock protection, is rock-solid reliable, and easy to service — exactly what you want in a field watch.

BOLDR Venture Automatic Sand Storm wrist shot

Like the previous version, the new Venture sports a titanium case, so it is tough but feels light as a feather, and the matte dark gray finish is just badass. It has a flat, AR-coated sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, and a whopping 200m water resistance rating, so if your fieldwork happens to be under the sea, have at it. The Venture will handle just about anything.

BOLDR never skimps on their case backs. For the Venture, they went for a huge "X" etched with an overlapping pattern of their logos and tag lines. Maybe not quite as ornate as some of their others, but striking nonetheless.

BOLDR Venture Automatic Sand Storm case back

While the watch is still only 38mm wide, its new, angular shape appears slightly larger on the wrist. Short, sheer lugs keep the overall length to just 42mm. With these dimensions and a listed thickness of 14mm, you would think it would wear like a brick but the main case is low and slimmed by a generous bevel along the sides. The rest is all bezel. Also, my precision instruments tell me it is actually just 12mm thick from case-back to crystal. I don't know where they hid the other two, and that is just fine. The large crown is sculpted in BOLDR's signature style and tucked out of the way at 4 o'clock. It all adds up to a compact watch that conveys a utilitarian bearing without resorting to unnecessary bulk. Kudos to the design team for this one. As I mentioned above, it works so well on my 6.75" wrist, I really don't want to take it off.

The dial is a traditional field style, albeit with some BOLDR twists. You have large, slim Arabic numbers for the 12-hour index with lume dots behind, and a smaller 24-hour index inside. The excellent BOLDR logo up top and the remaining text (model name, "Automatic," and water resistance rating) is stacked below, filling out the dial without cluttering it.

For me, the handset really makes the Venture's face. Black syringe hands and an orange, paddle-tipped second hand offer a nifty late 60's dive vibe. All benefit from tan Japanese SuperLume that glows nice and bright when your surroundings go dark. That creamy color also happens to look fabulous against the white dial. Of course, if Sand Storm White is not your thing, BOLDR will be happy to sell you one in Carbon Black, Navy Blue, or Jungle Green.

Field watches practically demand NATOs, and the Venture arrives on a heavyweight nylon weave with titanium loops, including a removable buckle. This is great because it is nearly impossible to find titanium strap hardware as a stand-alone accessory. BOLDR's NATO looks cool but did not work for me at all because once it was cinched down to my skinny wrist, it left a thick, uncooperative tail that resisted my best efforts to tuck it back. Bigger guys won't have that issue, but on my little wrist, it was too much.

Accepting that this was a look I was never going to pull off, I switched to a thin, soft leather pass-through from Cheapest NATO Straps for a snug fit, and later to an olive canvas two-piece (from an old Bulova) on the Venture's signed titanium buckle.

So the BOLDR Venture is rugged, stylish, and practical. If that is not enough to entice you, it is also inexpensive; $299 direct from BOLDR Supply Co. For one of the better field watches I've encountered as of late, that is a very nice price. Head over to BOLDR and check it out yourself. ⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

Every once in a while, I get a watch in for review and immediately upon opening the package, say “Wow!” It happened once before, and it’s now happened once again. The Feynman Timekeepers Cove diver--the brand's second watch--is the culprit. I did a preview post last month, and while the pictures provided by the brand were quite nice, I hadn’t anticipated being so taken by the watch. This one is rightup my alley. Like they went to the local bowling alley and said “Only Coke and Chicken Tenders, plus he gets a strike every time he bowls.” I fully understand that a large part of this is down to personal taste, but it checks almost all of my boxes. Read on and maybe you’ll be enthralled, too.

The case of the Cove is a thing of incorruptible beauty. The midcase features 4 different facets, alternating between polished and brushed finishes done at an exceptional quality. A keen eye will note that the bottom chamfer is slightly concave. The three base facets run the entire 46mm from lug to lug, while the top of the midcase features wedges on the lugs’ interior facet. It all combines for a dazzling light show, in any environment (except the deepest depths of the sea, where the monsters dwell).

The curvature of the entire 40mm case allows for it to sit ergonomically on any wrist without any need to worry about discomfort. While the prototype I had came in at 13.2mm thick, the production model will in fact be thinner at only 12.8mm. When I learned about this, my head nearly exploded: I was already experiencing an amazing watch that I thought wore perfectly. And then I hear it’ll be even thinner? BOOM. In fact, those with exceptionally large wrists (8in+), may find the case a bit small. At 2 and 4 o’clock, you’ll find knurled screwdown crowns nestled into the case, which control the bezel and set the time, respectively (and allow for 200M water resistance). While I found them slightly undersized, I’m happy to say they will be enlarged on the production model.

A polished bezel encircles the domed sapphire crystal (with an outrageous 5 layers of AR coating!). I cannot for the life of me decide whether I am more in love with the case or the dial. The dial itself is very similar to Feynman's first watch, the Feynman One (a watch originally intended as a piece unique for the brand owner's son, after whom the brand is named), featuring a delicate combination of layers and textures reportedly designed in accordance with The Golden Ratio.

The deep blue "Eclipse" dial (it also comes in black and a limited edition green) is encircled by a lumed internal dive bezel, adjustable with the screwdown crown at 2 o'clock. It's subtle--without knowing about watches in general, or maybe wondering about the extra crown, you might not even realize it's an internal bezel. While adjusting the bezel isn't a chore with the current crown, it will be even less so when it's enlarged on the production model. However, the domed sapphire creates distortion, making a precise reading of the bezel at a glance a challenge; increasing the size of the 12 o'clock bezel triangle go a long way in mitigating this.

Moving in from the bezel, that blue outer dial features grooves in lieu of more traditional hour markers. The Feynman badge is affixed at 4 o'clock, and I quite like this nameplate approach, as it adds a haute horology vibe to the whole dial. An elevated minute track adds depth and separates the outer dial from the wave-patterned inner dial, which is fully lumed to great effect. At 7 o'clock, bisected by the raised minute track, you'll the subseconds dial with the trademark lizard tail hand. Of note, the 60 and 30 markers on the subseconds will be replaced with Chinese characters. All the white on the dial is BGW9 lume, plus the relief of the central waves. It shines well, but will be further improved for the production model (in my casual tests, the wave motif faded very quickly).

Flipping the watch over, you get an up-close view of the decorated Swiss ETA 2895-2 movement, which has been adorned with a custom blue rotor featuring the “Cove” model name. The movement is top grade, meaning it's almost chronometer-level accuracy (average -/+ 4 seconds per day, maximum of 15 seconds per day), without the COSC certification. The movement features 27 jewels and a 50 hour power reserve. It is a date movement, which means that you’ll have a dead crown position. I’m usually a stickler for this, but given the totality of the watch, I’m making an exception. Surrounding the sapphire caseback glass are some standard watch details, but far less than many other microbrands (Feynman thankfully omits the case material, which shouldn’t be mentioned unless it’s a precious metal).

The strap game is strong with this one—especially with my stock of straps. The Cove comes equipped on a supple rubber made of what’s called FKM rubber. What you need to know about that is it’s better than neoprene and most other rubbers (it also has some fun trademarked names like Viton, Dai-El, Dyneon, Elaftor, and my favorite, Tecnoflon). The strap is comfortable and steps away from many of the stock rubber straps that come with most watches (usually catalog items), as Feynman has replicated the dial wave pattern in a thin strip running down the center of the strap. A bold custom buckle with sharp angles belies the elegance of the case. My strap collection is well suited to dressier watches with 20mm lugs, so I was able to pair quite a few with the Cove.

I’ve spoken a bit (perhaps elsewhere, or in private…I lose track) about the idea of a dress diver. This subclass of dive watches usually features the standard specs of a typical diver (200M+ water resistance, bezel, lume) but offer a less rugged case and may have some practical issues when it comes to actual water usage. My Omega Seamaster Pro fits the bill (the bezel is utterly unusable with anything but the driest of fingers), but as adress diver it pales in comparison to the Feynman Cove.

The Cove is a true dress diver: fluid, easy-wearing, elegant, and refined. While highly legible, the dial is quite complex. All of those are nonsense words, really, and what I’m getting at—what I’ve hopefully driven home above—is that this is an excellent watch, though probably isn’t for proper diving. But can’t you just see wearing this all day, every day on a nice vacation? It’s got you covered in the club, in the cabana, and in the waves. At a preorder price of around $760, the Cove is an amazing buy (full retail pricing of around $1,100 will likely take effect in September). If you’ve been thoroughly charmed, it’s available on Feynman’s site now.⬩

Matthew Humphries, famed industrial designer and former Chief of Design at Morgan Motors, shot me an email and asked me to review the MHD Sprint Automatic 2. That's right, the guy responsible for such cars as the achingly beautiful Aero and the gleefully insane 3-Wheeler wanted The Bum to share his marginally educated opinion of his work. I'm not going to lie, as a lifelong gearhead, I was more than a little star-struck, but at the same time, it set a high bar. Many of the watches passing through my hands are made by enthusiasts who are new to product development and design, and are often incremental variations on traditional formulas. I hoped that Humphries's watch would be revolutionary, not merely evolutionary. I was not disappointed. Having worn the MHD SA2 for about a week straight now, I can report that it is a stunning, unconventional, and still eminently practical timepiece.

There are three SA2 watches: the Steel Dial, the black case/black dial Launch Edition, and the Heritage White Dial I got to try for this review. Each is limited to 100 pieces. They are water resistant to 50m, have flat sapphire crystals front and rear, and house a Miyota 9039 movement. This 24 jewel, 28.8k bph automatic is essentially the beloved 9015 sans date. You can view it through the sapphire display case back — an interesting choice given the 9039's workmanlike finishes and fact that the SA2's fixed lugs mean you will be wearing it with pass-through straps that will cover it up.

MHD Sprint Automatic 2 Heritage White case back

Two high-quality, 22mm NATO straps are included. They are smooth, comfortable seatbelt nylon with brushed keepers and a signed, brushed, and polished buckle. In the case of the Heritage, you will get one black and one tan.

MHD Sprint Automatic 2 Heritage White black NATO Strap

The MHD SA2 challenged many of this watch nerd's preconceived notions, starting with what I thought I expected of a watch case. The SA2's is fascinating. Made from 316L stainless steel, it measures 41mm wide, 47mm long, and 10mm thick — and that is where the conventional thinking stops. It is constructed of four parts, in three finishes. A polished, knurled barrel with a flat, brushed bezel is surrounded by a slim, oblong frame that pins the barrel at its center. If this were a solid tonneau case, the SA2 would look large and heavy, like a diver; instead, the open frame brackets the barrel, keeping your eye fixed on that 37.7mm component, visually shrinking the watch. I was immediately reminded of Colin Chapman's advice for racecar engineers, "add lightness."

Longtime readers know I am not a fan of open spaces on watches because I am a fairly hairy guy, and while I am quite comfortable with my furry self, I can't stand it when a see-through feature on a watch highlights that fact. Those wide-open areas behind the lugs should drive me crazy, but the NATO strap fills the space neatly, leaving no room for an unsightly arm-hair display.

MHD calls the lug structure a chassis, and with the strap removed, you see exactly why. It is one solid piece, arched and tapering at either end to flat, fixed lugs. Tucked at each corner are soft undercuts that open up at the barrel. It takes little imagination to see the automotive influence in the extended space frame and vestigial fenders.

The top surface is polished while the sides are matte-finished and recessed twice, once through the entire length, and then again to accentuate the polished Torx fasteners securing the barrel. Between these inner recesses are a serial number on the left and the brushed and knurled cylindrical crown on the right. I've not seen anything quite like it.

Given the relatively long lugs and the fact that their arc ends just shy of the bottom of the case, I immediately assumed that I wouldn't be able to wear the watch comfortably. My wrist is on the small side for a man (6.75 "), and while I still wear large watches, I appreciate lugs that drop below the case, allowing the watch to wrap around for a more comfortable fit. I was not entirely wrong. The high lug position does make the watch wear large, and even though the seatbelt fabric began to conform to the watch after a day or two, NATOs are on the thick side by design. Someone with a 7" wrist or larger would likely have no problem, but I found it was all just a little too much.

Of course, this just meant I needed to play around with different straps. I started with a tan 22mm single-piece leather pass-through, then moved on to a 24mm (it fit) DaLuca Horween Shell cordovan in Color 8 for a beefier look. Both had less give than the soft nylon, but the lack of a second strap or long tail went far to keep things closer to my wrist. My favorite was a pale tan Crown & Buckle leather NATO that was soft and thin enough that it wrapped tightly over the lug bars and generated little extra thickness, even with the tail tucked back through the loops. So equipped, I wore the SA2 without the slightest issue.

The SA2's dial is another aspect that delivered in a manner I hadn't quite expected. Everything about it displays a light touch, from the finely rendered chapter index, to the tiny hour markers cut into the surface, to the delicate semi-skeletonized hands. Even the MHD logo is lightweight and understated. It makes you take a second look, and that is when you notice the marvelous details.

MHD's Heritage White is a warm color that mellows to a cream color under certain light. It is a particularly good backdrop for the red accents in the index and second hand tip and the glints of light bouncing off of the exposed metal behind the marker cut-outs. Yes, this is a sandwich dial without any luminous material beneath it. If you had asked me if it was a good idea to make a watch with tiny markers and no lume, I would have laughed. I mean, we have brands putting C3 on crowns and rotors -- everybody wants more lume! And yet, this one works beautifully without it. The flash of sliver shows through is a thoroughly appealing accent, particularly in the "redline zone" slice from 8-12:00. Of course, if you really can't live without lume, you will find a dose of the stuff on the black Launch Edition.

The hands are comprised of two distinct shapes. A polished bracket forms the lower part of the shaft from which a narrower shaft extends; black on the minute and hour hands, red on the second hand. Indeed, as slender as that second hand may be, it still retains a consistent design. It is absolutely gorgeous and as delicate as the SA2's features may be, I found the face to be perfectly legible in all but the lowest light.

I knew the SA2 would be intriguing, hoped it would be appealing, and feared it would be impractical, but MHD did not let me down. It is brilliant, and is available from mhdwatches.com for £645 (about $797 US). If you can appreciate an edgy, thoughtful watch that stands apart from the crowd, I highly recommend MHD.⬩

As anyone who lived through the past couple of months knows, life does not always go according to plan. Things happen. Sometimes it's a deadly pandemic that turns our daily lives into a strange amalgam of panic, dread, and monotony but more often, it's just something a charmingly simple as a late mail delivery. It was that second event that prevented the planned giveaway of two Helgray LeMans watches at the October 2019 District Time show. In terms of things that can go wrong, I much prefer that kind of problem to the one we are experiencing now, and while I can do nothing about the Coronavirus but stay home and wash my hands, I can definitely do something about those watches. I gave away the first when I hit10k followers on Instagram. Now, I'll try to brighten up this next plague month by reviewing and giving away the second Helgray LeMans.

Helgray LeMans Classic Silver Chronograph

The Helgray LeMans is, as you have surely deduced from the name, a racing chronograph. It's hard to go wrong with such a watch. Even though few of us time motorsports events with our chronos, their sporty style is hard to resist. The LeMans is a particularly fetching example of the breed. When I read that it was 42mm wide, I assumed it would be a large watch, but at 48mm long and just 11.5mm thick, it is actually quite sleek, fitting neatly on my 6.75" wrist and tucking comfortably under my buttoned shirt cuff.

Helgray LeMans Classic Silver Chronograph wrist shot

Chronographs are inherently sporty but the LeMans is one of the dressier examples of the breed. This Classic Silver variant features polished gold markers and hands on a piano black dial. A black date at 6 o'clock maintains the dial's symmetry and color scheme. The mixed-metals arrangement is rather sharp-looking and a nice compromise for people like me who like a touch of gold on a watch but tend to shy away from gold cases.

That pretty face is tucked inside a brushed stainless steel case with polished chamfers on the top and bottom edges that dress it up while also slimming it down. Brightwork continues with a polished bezel and chronograph buttons, and finally, a glossy ceramic bezel insert.

Pretty though it may be, the LeMans is well-equipped for weekend duty with a 100m water resistance rating, lumed markers and hands, an anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, and of course, the stopwatch function and tachymeter scale. A center-lock BBS basketweave wheel engraved on the case back reminds you of its racing roots.

Helgray LeMans Classic Silver Chronograph case back

On the supplied 20mm, 3-hole leather rally, the LeMans looks ready for a day at the track, but if you were to swap it for more conventional strap you could easily wear it with a suit. Want something even dressier? Try the rose gold case. Sportier? Then, I'd suggest the Midnight Black.

Every racer needs a proper engine. In this case, it's a Miyota 6S21 quartz with small seconds and 60-min subdials, and a smooth four-beat sweep hand.

Helgray LeMans Classic Silver Chronograph strap

The LeMans normally sells for $399 but you can get on sale now for $299. If you want to buy one, head on over to Helgray.com. On the other hand, if you want to get one for the more appealing price of free, then all you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight April 30, 2020.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law. You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter!

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good luck! ⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

Batavi Watches is a new brand from Amsterdam. Well, new isn't totally right. The brand had a few false starts: a quartz chrono and a diver in the same vein as the present watch. Both fell short of launching, but the company and its owner, Ugur Mamak, are back with a wham-bang third effort. The Batavi Kosmopoliet GMT takes the DNA of the brand's diver and amps it up with a GMT function and a host of flashy color combos. A Kickstarter campaign for the watch launched on March 26 and has already surpassed its goal, which means that if you end up backing the campaign, your risk is substantially reduced. All you have to do is sit and wait. Read on to find out if the watch is worth your investment.

This is an unapologetically shiny watch. It's not Patek on a polished bracelet shiny, but it's a leap beyond what many watches of the Kosmopoliet's style feature. The 39mm case sits only 12.5mm tall and wears wonderfully (Happily, 39mm seems to be an emerging favorite as brands recognize the luster of jumbo sizes is waning rapidly). While the case has a gentle contour, it lacks any substantial curve, but with its dimensions, the overall result is a watch that sat perfectly and looked perfect on my 7-inch wrist.

As you can plainly see, the watch features a good amount of polished surfaces; essentially, the entire case (bezel and crown included) features a shiny, high-polish finish. The angles are sharp, and finish is well done, and there's a gradual brushed chamfer along the lugs, but it does little to break things up. Altogether, the finishing gives this watch a decidedly dressy feel, which belies the functionality and silhouette of the case, both of which suggest a more practical aesthetic. High polish isn't my preference for any but the most formal of watches. With all the surfaces on the Kosmopoliet, there's a good chance for this watch to become visibly nicked rather quickly for those who fail to baby our watches.

The 3 o'clock ridged screw-down crown is functional, though, as happens with GMT movements, setting the GMT hand can be a bit jerky (Note that the crown will just have "B" instead of "BA"). Matching the ridges on the crown is the stainless steel bezel with a two-tone sapphire insert. The fully lumed bezel features intentional fading, which contrasts with the high polish case and brightness of the dial colors. The bezel itself is a bit stiff, requiring some effort to set (the prototype was 60 clicks, but the production will be an improved 120 clicks). This would be a huge issue on a dive watch that needs to be used underwater or just to quickly time something. But given that tracking a third time zone is usually a set it and forget it task, I'll allow a bit of stiffness.

Beneath a domed sapphire crystal, the watch's brilliant dial awaits. My review piece was the Amsterdam colorway, with a striking blue dial that occasionally played deep purple. The bottom layer of the dial is pure lume and shows up as a brownish-yellow, which is far more appealing than it sounds. An unnumbered minute track in the same color sits at the dial's periphery. The watch is available in six dial/bezel colorways, but the rest of the details remain constant: Super-LumiNova C3 shines adequately on all apparent surfaces, including the rounded sandwich indices, the obelisk hands, and the big arrow GMT hand. The GMT hand will be a bright red on all models, and offers excellent legibility for tracking a second time zone. The dial is highly engaging and delightful to gaze at and would be more so if the case around it were slightly more subdued. While I found the lume perfectly adequate, Batavi says it will be even better for production.

The Kosmopoliet GMT features a top-notch Swiss ETA 2893-2 movement. Its visible thru a sapphire crystal caseback, which screws down to allow for 200M water resistance, as clearly stated right there on the caseback (along with some other details for your reading pleasure). This movement is the and industry standard for GMTs, and features 21 jewels and a claimed 50-hour power reserve. While it features a date, and the dial does not, the crown position is not dead as it accommodates the GMT adjustment. The watch will also be available with a Swiss Soprod GMT movement, to allow for a slightly cheaper option. I simply don't see the logic, as you're getting into decision fatigue. I can understand doing a quartz option? Maybe? But I've seen before and continue to dislike the two-tiered movement approach.

The Batavi features 20mm drilled lugs for easy strap swaps. The lug holes, however, seem an afterthought, as they are right up against the chamfer. Structurally this shouldn't be an issue, but it looks a bit haphazard. The included bracelet is exceptionally comfortable, owing to its articulating links, their smaller size, and three micro adjustments on the folding clasp; this bracelet will conform nicely to just about any wrist topography. But with that comfort comes even more high polished surfaces, even the sides of the links. As if that weren't enough, the Kosmopoliet also comes with a seatbelt NATO, which, as you may have guessed, has quite the sheen to it.

In the form of heaven-sent reprieve, the included orange rubber strap is excellent (see the top photo). By some combination of alchemy and sorcery, it doesn't attract any dust, is rugged yet flexible, and thickens towards the lugs, creating a pleasant fit. With three strap options included for review, I didn't even bother to equip any of my own straps, and frankly, the amalgam of colors on the watch itself makes pairing it a bit of a challenge.

The Kosmpoliet is an undeniably fun watch. It's got a pop of color, a lot of shine, and wears great. That said, it can come off as a bit too much, which is how I experienced it. The polishing and sunburst dial were aesthetically overwhelming for me. The watch is available in all the colors of the rainbow (or 6 of them) and will come with all three strap options (and a fourth leather option is available). The campaign ends April 20, but until then, you can get the Kosmopoliet for as low as $616 with the Soprod movement, or $702 with the ETA. And my gripes aside, it's a fine watch, and if you were swayed to back the campaign, you certainly wouldn't be alone.⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

We ran a preview of the Collins Sonar in the Fall of 2019, but we’ve got the real deal, hands-on-with-actual-photos for you below!

If you aren’t familiar with Collins Watch Company, you should be. The brainchild of Jimmy Collins—a director, designer, and exceptionally affable human being—the brand was founded in 2016 and also makes sunglasses (and I believe at one point may have made luggage, but don’t quote me on that). But the brand is definitely best known for its watches (and given the name, that makes sense). Collins released its first production model, The Bronson, in 2017. The watch was a simple 3-hander with date option, some fun dials, and a no-complaints ultra-clean aesthetic. Truth be told, I almost bought one at the District Time Show a few years ago, but it was the last carbon fiber dial and Jimmy was keeping it for himself—I don’t blame him. That said, even with a follow-up chronograph that used the same case with pushers, I think the Sonar is where the brand has hit its stride. It’s Collins’ first dive watch, and it’s smashing—especially the yellow model I had in for review.

The proportions on the Sonar are just right: 39.5mm across, 12mm tall, with a 47.5mm lug-to-lug. It wears exceptionally well on my 7-inch wrist, aided by a slight curvature in the lugs. Aside from a polished bezel and crown, the case is entirely brushed, with crisp angles that evidence high-quality finishing. The 20mm lugs detour away from the case but then taper themselves a bit. At 3 o’clock, a ridged screw-down crown provides 300 meters of water resistance. It's signed with a ‘C’, though I would've preferred the Collins arrow here (as seen in the 12 o'clock dial marker). I'd also make be making the crown just a tad larger, maybe .5 or 1 mm each way—this is purely visual though, as the size creates no problems: it operates easily, with discrete positions (albeit with a dead date position).

The 120-click unidirectional bezel matches the polished finish of the crown and operates smoothly, with absolutely no back play and a satisfying click when turned. The aluminum insert features a well-lumed index triangle and etched markers that add some very subtle depth.

The yellow dial is on full display through a très moderneflat sapphire crystal. The watch is also available in black, white, green, blue, and orange, though I’ve seen them all in person and the yellow has quickly become my favorite (be advised that the black and white feature black bezel inserts). The dial is unfussy and maintains the delicate balancing act of the case. A minute track goes around the periphery and is broken up by polished markers with Super-LumiNova BGW9 lume. The 12 o’clock marker is the classic Collins arrow, while the cardinal hours are what I’ll call “peg style.” The remaining indices are all in classic baton shape. A reticle intersects the center of the dial, with the Collins name up north and the model and depth rating down south, all in black.

Polished sword-style hands feature the same lume as the markers, and the second hand features a diamond pip towards its end. The length of the hands is on point: the hour hand just touches the base of the arrow and the east-west ends of the reticle, while the minute and seconds extend perfectly to the inner edge of the minute track. And if that weren’t enough attention to detail (by Collins for doing it, or me for noticing it), the seconds pip is situated so as to meet the interior edge of the cardinal hour markers. You may not think this matters, but it all contributes to the success of the Sonar’s design.

I should mention that while the lume is certainly adequate, it’s by no means perfect. The hands and cardinal markers light up quickly and brightly without fail, but the bezel marker and the other hours take a bit more UV juice to get going. They light up, but the markers’ size makes them harder to shine as brightly, and they simply don’t seem to absorb as much light. Perhaps oddly, I found the contrast pleasing, as the arrow and peg markers are one of my favorite features of the watch.

On the reverse, the solid screw-down caseback supports the crown in water resistance achievement. It’s engraved with a design that will only be featured on the first 20 of each variant. You know in movies when there’s a spy agency and the logo is invariably a map of the world on a circular grid? That’s basically what the design is. Surrounding the spy grid engraving are standard specs plus the specific number of the watch in hand (00020 for my review piece). And I don’t know what design is in store for the watches after the first 20, but I definitely hope it’s an etching of Jimmy Collins’ face.

Under the caseback ticks a reliable Swiss SW200 from Sellita. As I mentioned above, it is a date movement, so you will need to deal with a dead crown position. Sellita has shed its old reputation for iffy reliability and now supplies more movements than ETA. The SW200 has 26 jewels, a power reserve of 38 hours, and ticks at 4hz for a smooth sweeping second hand. The watch is not only assembled in the US, but Collins also tests the movements and regulates them in six different positions.

The Sonar comes stock on a brushed, oyster style bracelet that meets the case at 20mm and tapers to 18mm at the branded flip-lock clasp. Thanks to screw pins, it’s easy to size, and three micro adjustments in the clasp allow for fine-tuning. The end links are custom fitted to the watch and integrated with the rest of the bracelet, meaning no worrying about them running off with that stray sock. Once adjusted, the bracelet makes an already comfortable watch that much more so.

I’ve been noticing lately that some brands have end links wherein the access to the springbars is hardly wide enough to fit in a spring bar tool, which creates an issue when changing straps. Well, that’s not a problem with the Sonar, and I was able—as you can see—to slake my near-insatiable thirst for strap swapping. They all worked, and they all looked fantastic. One of the things that most surprised me was just howversatile this dial and watch were when it came to straps. Another win for the Sonar.

Have I properly gushed? Too much? Not enough? No matter. Maybe you look at the Sonar and go “I don’t get it. Why’s Mike lost his mind?” That’s kind of the point. Its design done so well that you don’t notice it. The Sonar isn’t hitting you over the head with a massive case, or too much shininess, or a cluttered dial. It’s just doing its thing, perfectly. Even the dial colors are perfectly executed to avoid overwhelming (as orange and yellow are wont to do). This watch is an all-arounder. You could—you, not me—have just one watch with the Sonar. That’s obviously an absurd postulate, but I’m making it nonetheless.

So, you have my blessing to go get this watch. The Sonar is available for just $595, direct from Collins. Each color will have an initial run of 20, so act fast (case in point: the white dial is already gone). That’s a fantastic price for a watch like this, so don’t be shocked if you see more of this from me, as I don’t know if I’ll be able to let it go.⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

Audric Watches is a newcomer to the Singapore-based watch scene. With well over 50 brands operating out of the Asian city-state, it's getting crowded. In conversation with the founder, who named the band after his son, I was told, "We just want to make watches for everyone and let our watches create a story for themselves." I think that's about the purist motivation for a brand as I've heard, and I'm on board. Audric's first model is the SeaBorne 500, an entirely Swiss-made diver for the most adventurous of watchnerds.

The SeaBorne clocks in a hefty 43mm wide. While there are plenty of watches that big, including several fan-favorite Seikos, the case design of the SeaBorne does nothing to abate the feeling of its size. The case is a solid chunk of 316L stainless steel with a 51mm lug-to-lug and 15.4mm height. As if those numbers weren't grand enough, the watch — on the bracelet, as adjusted to my wrist — weighs half an actual pound. Thicc Boi Achievement: unlocked. So the watch is big, and wears heavy—you can feel this every second you have it on — but it's not nearly as much of an encumbrance as you'd expect from such numbers; it sat well on my wrist and at no point was it uncomfortable. Got it? Good. Let's go.

While the case may not do itself favors in reducing the feelingof heft, it does plenty to look good. The case sides feature a blast-finished cutaway, and then myriad angles in both brushed and polished finishes. If you've read any of my reviews, you'll know I am a fan of contrast and angles. I mentioned Seiko above, and the top-down view of the case is actually quite reminiscent of the Shogun, with abruptly sloping lugs and a general "boxy tonneau" silhouette. The overall profile of the case is a gentle curve, but as I mentioned, it doesn't ease the bulk (#easethebulk). I've also been advised that the finishing quality will be even higher on production pieces—I didn't notice any issues, but this can't be a bad thing.

Crown guards emerge from the 3 o'clock case side to protect a deep-grooved screw-down crown that is exceptionally easy to operate, even while on the wrist, and provides 500M of water resistance. That's right, this watch is ready for all your deep dives—and it won't explode on the way up, as it's equipped with a helium escape valve at 9 o'clock. Echoing the crown is a polished bezel with evenly spaced brushed grooves. The bezel is one of the best I've used: smooth turning (even when my hands were wet), no back play, with a fully lumed sapphire insert that matches the color of the dial. Magnificent.

While the case is engaging, the dial is what will likely draw most watchnerds in. A multicolor chapter ring encircles the entire dial, with different colors partitioning the first 20 seconds (10-5-5). It's a great pop of color on the grey dial, and I think it looks equally good on the black dial option. Stepping in from there, the cutouts of the sandwich dial offer a fully lumed minute track—a real treat when the watch lights up with lume but lost in daylight on the lighter dial options (not a huge issue, as the chapter ring also has minute markers).

The main dial is a gleaming epiphany of radiant joy. A textured sunburst pattern starts at the hands and shoots out to the chapter ring, making space for the various dial applications along the way. Bold applied hour makers alternate between pip and banner style (they look like tiny medieval banners, right? Or maybe bookmark tabs? Or shields?). Polished, partially cutout hands match the latter marker form; I've been informed that the hand width will be adjusted to match the marker width, which shows a good eye for detail in design. The rather diminutive seconds hand will also be enlarged. A date window with a polished frame sits at 3 o'clock and blends in well with the rest of the dial, offering limited disruption.

The dial is highly legible, despite the lack of contrast, likely owing to the size of the hands and markers. The Super-LumiNova BGW9 lume application is good, but will be further enhanced for production, and will only add to this ease of reading the watch at a glance. And as an added touch, all the shiny bits on the dial are rhodium-plating, meaning they'll tarnish less and last longer, should you keep this one in your watch box for the duration.

On the back of the watch, there's a sea turtle. While the sea turtle is ostensibly a symbol of strength, endurance, and agility, I'd accept it as simply a nice design. Around our new turtle friend is some information about the watch. Unscrew the turtle, and you'd see the Swiss Sellita SW200-1 Automatic movement. This movement is well established in the microbrand and even entry-level luxury brands (if that's what you'd call TAG Heuer these days). The movement is elaboré grade—meaning some nicer hardware and a bit of decoration—and features 26 jewels and a 38 hour power reserve. Audric has the movements further adjusted to five (instead of three) positions. There's not much to be said about this ETA 2824 clone—it'll get it done without issue, which is one less thing to worry about one your ultradeep desk dives.

The bracelet is great. But the setup for it is not. Because of the lug hole position, equipping this watch with anything other than the included bracelet was not possible. And I tried just about everything I could. That said, the sheer size of the watch would dwarf all but the thickest straps, and a pass-thru strap would look laughable. The bracelet is a five-link offering with fitted, integrated end-links (they attach to the rest of the bracelet instead of coming off like in many microbrand watches). The screw-in links feature alternating polished and brushed finishes to complement the case. The best feature, however, is the ratcheting clasp, which is ostensibly for wearing over a wetsuit. In practice, though, it's used for hot days when your wrist swells a bit; the mechanism allows for an extra half-inch of fine-tuned sizing.

I know I went on a bit, repeatedly, about the sheer size of this watch. A big part of it is the heft, not the actual dimensions. It's heavy, and that's ok. This is a great watch for those with big wrists and big biceps, but it'll also work for people with average wrists and no biceps, like me. There's little to complain about here, and what little there is will be fixed for production. The case is a pleasure, with numerous cutaways and facets, and the dial only continues that with its texture and legibility. The Audric will be available on Kickstarter starting June 2nd, and early backers will be able to get it for just $600 (retail will be $1000). That's a great deal for a well-designed, rugged dive watch with a ton of panache. For now, you can sign up on the brand's site for updates and be alerted when the campaign launches. ⬩

It has been a long time since I’ve had my hands on a Hagar Watch for review — December 2014, to be exact. I’ve been keeping up with the brand, of course, and checking out the new models in person at the annual District Time shows in DC, but somehow, brand owner Pete Brown and I just haven’t connected long enough to arrange a review. Until now, that is, when a Pheon GMT came through my door.

The Pheon comes in two configurations (GMT or small seconds), two sizes (38mm or 42mm), and any color dial you want so long as it is fumé blue. Its square cushion case has more than a touch of Panerai to it, but a lithe Panerai, mercifully stripped of excess bulk. I sampled the 38mm model, which is 45.5mm long and 12mm thick, or what I would call absolutely perfect on my 6.75” wrist. I could probably wear the larger version with much fuss either (42x49x13mm), but this suits me just fine. Still, it’s nice to have the option, and given that square cases tend to appear a full size or two larger on the wrist than round cases, you won’t be hurting for wrist presence.

Lest you think the Pheon is a dress watch, I’d direct you to its brushed finish, AR-coated domed sapphire crystal, and guarded, screw-down crown. This watch was built to handle a wide range of environments. While it is not strictly a dive watch, it carries a 200m rating so you could certainly dive with it if so inclined. Indeed, the three-link, scalloped, Panerai-inspired bracelet secures with a proper push-button deployment clasp and wetsuit extension. Unlike many of that ilk I have reviewed lately, the boxy clasp is nicely finished all around, leaving no sharp corners. That said, I must note that the polished bevels don’t tie to any other surface on the watch. The bracelet tapers from 20-18mm on the smaller watch, 22-20mm on the larger.

Now, the real fun is in the dial, a gradient fumé sunburst in a rich blue that fades lighter towards the center. Bright blue-white lume shows through the cut-out markers, numerals, and logo. The polished handset combines a dauphine minute hand with an Omega-style, arrow-shaped hour hand, and, if you opt for this model, a bright blue GMT hand. It looks great, although I did miss the utility having a 12 or 24-hour bezel. If you can live without the GMT function, then I’d opt for the small seconds version as it is just a touch cleaner in my book.

On the flip side, you will find a pheon engraved on the case back. The image also graces the crown head. Inside, beats a Swiss made automatic with a 42-hour power reserve. “Which manufacturer?” You might ask. Let me ask you, “does it matter?” After all, you can count the likely options on one hand without using all the fingers, they all use the same ETA architecture, and none of them are duds. This one is actually a 25-jewel, 28.8kbph Soprod C125 with a quick-set GMT.

I wore the Pheon for a few days the Time Bum’s hermetically sealed, Coronavirus-resistant bunker and liked having around. While the bracelet was perfectly comfortable, I found the big clasp to be overkill and a touch oversized for my newly housebound lifestyle. After a rummage through the collection, I dug out a padded Navy suede two-piece strap from Cheapest NATO Straps that proved a perfect complement to both the modest case and the lush blue dial.

I enjoyed my time with the Pheon. The Panerai/Omega design cues mesh well, the blue dial is lovely, and the smaller size was right in my sweet spot. At $1,165, it is not cheap, but definitely in the attainable range for most collectors. If you prefer the small seconds, you will only pay $865, which is not bad for a watch that captures the panache of the new Panerai Mediterrano at a price that is cheaper by an order of magnitude.

The Pheon series is in stock and available now direct from HagerWatches.com. ⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

I’ve been holding the Duxot Forza for a bit too long, perhaps. I got it well over a month ago and it’s been on the wrist, not too frequently, but enough. Duxot is one of the brands under the Dartmouth Brands umbrella—along with Avi-8, Spinnaker, DuFa, and a few others. This is a group that knows microbrand watches, and with Avi-8 and Spinnaker, you could argue it defines microbrand watches in some ways (not all good). Duxot is one of their newer brands, though I can’t say exactly how new, as information on the site is vague. The Forza is a titanium no-nonsense dive watch, one of seven different dive models the brand offers. Yes, seven.

The case of the Forza presents many of its issues. There is nothing wrong with the aesthetic design of the case, but the proportions are jarring at first. Let’s call it tolerably stumpy. We’re talking about a 39mm diver that is 14.5mm thick. The height on my wrist was one of the very first thing is noticed about the watch. It’s just awkwardly tall. And though I could not will the watch to slim down, but I did get used to it as I had the watch on my wrist throughout the day.

The entirety of the titanium case (along with the bracelet) features a satin finish. However, I noticed that the tone of the case is different from that of the bracelet, which is different still from that of the clasp. That’s a pretty big (though in some light hard to see) miss in my book. The case features a bevel on its bottom edge that travels from tip-to-tip of the sharply-curved, slim 20mm lugs. A simple screwdown crown ensures 250M of water resistance, which is totally adequate, if a bit unusual, as most divers are 200M or 300M. The crown is slightly stiff when being unscrewed, but entirely functional—if anything, this may make you feel like it’s more secure; a Duxot ‘D’ graces its end.

The lumed (but not nearly as well as the dial) ceramic bezel is sloped and looks great and is functional, but just a little too hard to get moving. Once you’ve got it turned and set, though, it’ll stay in place without any shifting. Finding the right tension for a bezel is a delicate task for any brand, and I’d rather have a bezel that takes a little extra effort than one that shifts around on me.

Let’s talk about that dial. Under a sapphire crystal lurks a deep green (the actual color name) matte dial. The lume here is big and bold and lovely. But my favorite part is the applied indices. The flat lume plots sit atop what appear to be brushed metal markers. It’s incredibly subtle, but amazingly executed and adds depth and texture to the flat green dial. The capsule shaped hands feature the same finishing as the indices, while the lollipop seconds hand features an orange end to match the orange dial text. The date window is at 3 o’clock and is inoffensive, if it’s anything at all. Taken as a whole, the dial is highly legible with a pleasing balance of color.

The screwdown caseback features a crisp, clear logo with all the words telling you all the details of the watch. It protects a Seiko NH35, wherein we find the culprit of the watch’s thickness. The NH35 is a well-known movement that’s reliable and easily serviced. But it’s also 35% thicker than its Miyota counterpart, the 9015, which offers a higher beat and longer power reserve. However, Duxot may have opted for the Seiko simply because its much cheaper (which I’ll come back to).

I’ve already touched on the bracelet’s color as it relates to the case. The bracelet itself has a cheaper feel, unfortunately, and the flip lock of the clasp popped open while on the wrist, though the clasp itself remained closed. I think the cheap feel is partially down to finish. The satin finish of the case is matched on the bracelet, but on the bracelet it feels rougher and less refined. I did pair this with some good straps; the lug holes are right at the end of the lugs, making strap changes easy, and allowing the watch on a strap to really hug the wrist.

If it wasn’t clear by my review, which is not only uncharacteristically short but also leans heavy on the negative side, I was underwhelmed. The dial is great. I really do like it. Everything about it. I even don’t mind the date window, since its far enough out that it’s not awkward. It’s a good looking watch—see those pretty pictures?—but it’s beset by case issue: the initial thickness shock, stiff crown and bezel, mismatched tones, iffy bracelet refinement.

The Duxot Forza’s retail price is $830 is far too much. I can’t mince words. They may well be available elsewhere for cheaper (though I’ve not seen them), but a watch with the issues I’ve mentioned, plus an NH35 (frequently found in sub-$500 watches) has no business with such a price tag. At that price, I’d expect exceptional and consistentfinishing, with a higher quality movement (e.g. Nodus). If you’re looking for a titanium diver with a pop of orange, you’d be better served getting something like the Mido Ocean Star Captain V, which can be had for well under $1000, even brand new. For those of you who are undeterred, you can find the Forza here, along with the black and blue dial options. Take a look around the site, too: Duxot has some really great looking designs. And maybe the quality of the Forza is just a fluke.⬩

It was just last month that I reviewed the BOLDR Venture Automatic titanium field watch. Now, the folks in Singapore have new model that takes its titanium field watch concept in a new direction, The Venture Field Medic, specifically designed for the medical professionals who have risen to the incredible challenge of treating the Conornavirus Pandemic. The watch is available for pre-order today, with a fixed amount of proceeds going towards multiple COVID-19 relief funds.

The watch is intended to be medic-friendly chronograph used to measure pulse rates and respiratory counts of patients. As you can tell from the pictures, it uses the same 38mm titanium case design I liked so much as the Venture Automatic. It is 44mm long and just 12.2mm thick. This time, it has been outfitted to suit the Seiko VK64 chronograph inside. These MechaQuartz movements are my favorite quartz units as they have a smooth 1/5th second sweep and crisp snap-back reset.

Danny Luís, a designer based in Portugal (ESCH Design) came up with a concept for a medic tool watch along with his friend Dr. Karan Madan, a physician based in India. Inspired by healthcare professionals who regularly count pulse rates and respiratory counts of patients, the watch would be a handy medical tool as well as a collectors item for watch-lovers in general.

After solidifying the idea with Karan, Danny reached out to long-time collaborator and founder of BOLDR Supply Company, Leon Leong, who immediately came on board. Having observed the sacrifices of the medical community first-hand, Leon was eager to help. As he explains, “I was quarantined as a suspected carrier in the National Center For Infectious Diseases (Singapore) for 2 days. The doctors and nurses were among the bravest souls I have seen, working tirelessly to manage the increasing number of suspected cases while nursing admitted patients back to health." I'm pleased to report that Leon was released with a clear bill of health.

With little time to waste, the trio got to work. Leon provided base materials and watch manufacturing concepts while Danny designed the watch layout, and Karan provided the calculation scales for the pulse and respiratory rates. “Designing the watch was the biggest challenge, requiring many discussions and revisions until we got it absolutely right," remarked Danny. “I felt like the ‘Medic Watch’ concept should not be merely a casual watch or dress watch, but one that is robust and optimised for superior performance." The watch went from concept to production in a month.

An enthusiastic watch collector himself, Karan realized the appeal of having a watch with multiple handy functions safely strapped to one’s wrist for daily rounds. "Being a physician, the watch embodies the utility I require in my daily work," he said. "Now I can quickly count off the heart and respiratory rate of patients within a few seconds by using precise graduated scales on the dial, without wasting valuable time counting the traditional way,” he said.

The dial is marvelously detailed and brimming with useful information. It features the usual small seconds and 24-hour registers, minute and hour markers, and also two indexes that will likely be new to those unfamiliar with traditional doctor's watches: a pulsometer and a respiratory rate scale. To use them, simply activate the chronograph, count the specified number of beats or breaths, stop the chronograph, and the central second hand points to the required measurement. Even the date disk has a medical purpose as that is necessary when completing patient notes. You can choose from two different dials: dark gray with two-tone lume for the hours, minutes, all three primary hands, and both medial scales; or a full-time white dial with green-lumed hands and pulsations index.

Like the previous Venture Field Watch, the Field Medic is meant for serous use. It has a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, a screw-down crown, and is rated for 200m water resistance. It comes fitted with a 20mm nylon NATO strap and titanium hardware. You can knock it about all day and also disinfect the whole thing stem-stern whenever necessary.

“We’re confident this will be a great tool watch not only for healthcare workers, but regular watch-lovers alike. It was just an idea, one that we’re glad we brought to life in order to do a small but important part to help." says Leon.

I think the watch is an amazing, practical tool as well as a heartfelt gesture for the healthcare workers on the front lines of this pandemic. You can pre-order the Venture Medic Field today on BOLDR’s website www.boldrsupply.co for $299 and they will donate $30 from every watch sale to Doctors Without Borders, Red Cross Singapore, and several other COVID-19 relief funds. ⬩

I recently executed a watch trade that included a new Out Of Order Automatico. Had it not been part of a package deal, I likely never would have had one of these watches through my door. I enjoy vintage watches, appreciate wabi-sabi, dig patina, and have no problem whatsoever with design cues on new watches that mimic aged products like Old Radium lume or mottled dials. I don't use the term "fauxtina" derisively. Still, I must admit that I found Out Of Order's (OOO) pre-distressed ethos to be over the top and maybe too gimmicky for this Horological Hobo's tastes. Now that I have had one on my wrist, I have changed my tune. OOO is having a bit of a laugh, and now I get the joke. It is witty enough to purchase? Well, read on.

This model is a White Automatico 9K, a limited edition that is now sold out; however, others in series are still for sale and share the same style. OOO describes the dial as "white sandblasted and sunburnt." I'd call it closer to an ombré bronze or gold than white with a pronounced gritty texture. Regardless, it is quite attractive, combining cut-a-ways with applied markers for maximum dimension. Along with the usual dial text is the OOO catchphrase, "Damaged in Italy."

As you might have gathered by now, OOO prides itself on not being pristine. The Submariner-style brushed stainless steel case is treated using a proprietary technique that leaves it discolored in random, exciting ways. Where other OOO models have shipped with intentional scuffs and marks, the Automatico I received is very much an undamaged watch with some accelerated aging for decoration. The finish is quite unlike the natural patina you get with brass or bronze, yet not obviously artificial like some antiqued PVD finishes. The result appears to be organic decay, not unlike a ghost bezel or tropical dial. Moreover, it plays on the fact that certain watch fans get all misty over this stuff and then and then pay a premium for it. I freely admit that I love that kind of thing too, although I draw the line at paying extra because I'm just too damn cheap for that.

I would have expected Old Radium lume on a pre-aged watch. Instead, OOO went with C3 SuperLuminova, generously dabbing it on the hour markers, hands, and every engraving on the bezel. It makes perfect sense, given the color scheme, and it lights up nice and bright. My only gripe is that the broad arrow hour hand is only lumed at the tip. A channel down its length would have gone a long way. Still, I had no problem picking it out when the lights got low.

The rehaut is aged just like the rest of the watch and engraved with the message, "Do not cook spaghetti for more than 8 minutes." The engraving is painted gold. "Why," you may ask? "Why the hell not," I'd reply. It is a perfectly ridiculous thing to write on a watch, and yet, as I contemplated how other watches have festooned their rings with such worthless information as "helium release valve" or just "Rolex" repeated ad nauseam, I realized that the spaghetti advice is by far, the most useful phrase ever engraved in that obscure area.

I balked at the watch's 44mm width, fearing it would be an oversized brute on the wrist, but this was not the case. As is 51mm long and 13mm thick, the watch isn't small but it manages to stay within the confines of my 6.75" wrist. At a glance, I would have guessed it was closer to 42mm wide. I certainly had no problem wearing it, especially given that it is a very casual piece.

I applaud OOO for giving the same treatment to the bezel insert and bracelet, although I must subtract points for the color mismatch between the two. While the case and insert have a distinctly bluish cast with some red highlights, the 22mm bracelet is unquestionably brown. This is a drag because I like the way the 5-link jubilee style wears and really appreciate the low-profile deployant clasp, but the nitpicker in me couldn't get past the two-tone effect. I suspect the vagaries of the patina process are to blame, and you either embrace it or you don't. I don't.

Similarly, there are some other odd finish choices at play here. The signed, screw-down crown is not patinated at all but has a black PVD edge and a clean head. I suspect this may be to avoid the same kind of mismatch that occurred between the case and bracelet (I assume that these parts are finished separately in large batches), but if that is the reason, I'd have preferred it if they blacked out the whole crown. It is not a big deal, but it does make me scratch my head. PVD black also shows up on the inside of the clasp and the case back ring surrounding the exhibition window.

There isn't really much to look at out back, as the Miyota 9015 inside (28.8k bph, 24-jewel, hacking, hand-winding) is not highly decorated. OOO livens things up by printing the logo, "Damaged in Italy" catchphrase, and a message to the owner, "please, treat me bad" all in fittingly submissive lowercase italics. You bet I will, you naughty little minx. The safe word is "escapement." I'm quite sure the Automatico will take its share of abuse, not only because the case already looks like it was rode hard and put away wet, but because it is rated for 100m water resistance and fitted with an anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal. Bezel action is light, but secure enough as it steps through its 120 clicks. It wouldn't be my first choice for scuba diving, but considering that I don't scuba dive and never will, it is more than sufficiently equipped to handle any outdoor activity I might throw at it.

In the end, I really only had two issues with the watch. The first was "Made in Italy" engraved on the side of the case. It would be more than necessary on any watch, but OOO already mentions its nationality on the dial and case back. We get it, you are Italian. Even if we missed it before, the spaghetti reference might have tipped us off. We didn't need it here too. The second issue was that I liked the feel of the bracelet more than the look. I fixed this by swapping it for a light gray-brown leather strap that complemented both the gold in the dial and the blue of the bezel. Of course, I don't have a buckle that would even remotely match the case, but I think I can work one up over an open flame.

I didn't think I would enjoy the OOO Automatico, but enjoy it, I did. This is a watch that pokes its finger in the eye of watch snobbery and gives precisely zero fucks in the process. Now about that price...

The Automatico 9k sold for $640 new. The very similar Swiss Automatico, which uses an STP 1-11 instead of the Miyota, goes for $690. Is that fair for a unique and humorous watch, or is it OOO's final joke? Right now, the brand is running a 20% sale on all orders while it waits out the Coronavirus shut down, bringing the Swiss Automatico to a much more palatable $552. That is still on the high side, but some will find it easier to justify given its Swiss innards. Me? I'm quite happy I got it in a trade, thank you.

If the OOO Automatico's handsomely grizzled looks and cheeky attitude have won you over, head on over to OutOfOrderWatches.com, check them out for yourself, and remember to always cook your spaghetti al dente. ⬩

Out Of Order Automatico 9k white bracelet

Review and photos by Mike Razak

This is a review of the Axia Kairos. The offering is thus: a time-and-date high-polish dress watch with modest proportions. And I’m going to get into the review in a second, but I first want to talk about microbrand dress watches—or the lack thereof.

The modern dress watch is a peculiar beast. The current watch market is perhaps irretrievably saturated with divers—from big and small brands. But especially in the microbrand world, the default for any brand seems to be to enter the market with a diver and focus mostly on sports and tool watches thereafter. This market segment (non-fashion, high quality, affordable timepieces) is lacking any substantial dress watch presence. There are a few things behind this, as I see it. First, most people who buy a watch are buying one, maybe two watches, and they want as much versatility in those watches as possible; a high-polish, time-only watch doesn’t do much there. And it’s hard to justify spending what many would consider a large sum on a watch you anticipate only wearing a few days a month, if that. On the business side, the consumer reluctance means it’s far less likely that a dress watch will make its money back, so a new brand operating on tiny margins may not feel safe dedicating capital to such a timepiece. And let’s face it, the world seems to be getting more casual, not more formal. There are people [read: monsters] who would wear a Hublot with a tuxedo, for Christ’s sake.

Back to the Axia. The New Jersey-based brand has an assortment of non-tool watches, plus one diver. But their “thing” is that they offer university watches, wherein you can order any of their models with one of the Ivy League’s logos, and in some cases, the case and/or dial will be coordinated with the school’s colors. It’s a great idea for a graduation gift, or for die-hard fans of New England Academia. The Kairos is, in my not at all humble opinion, their best looking watch. Let me explain why in the next thousand or so words.

The 40mm case of the Axia Kairos is a simple 3 piece case wherein every surface is highly polished. A rounded fixed bezel sits atop the midcase, which features 20mm lugs with a polished chamfer. One of the few criticisms I had of the watch is this chamfer. It would’ve brought some life to an otherwise uniform case if it were lightly brushed—a fine grain to add a counterpoint to all the refinement. The lugs themselves are chopped off at the end, adding an oblique facet where many watches continue to complete the downward curve.

A subdued push-pull crown at 3 o’clock features the Axia logo and is easy to grip and operate (the watch has 50M of water resistance, certainly sufficient for this style). With modest dimensions (only 11.3mm thick and a lug-to-lug of 46mm) this watch is going to look at home on any but the very smallest and very largest wrists. As you can see, it sat perfectly on my 7" wrist.

The dial, seen through a slightly domed sapphire crystal, is the real prize here. A deep sunray blue bursts from the center to add some soft texture to the dial (it's also available in black or silver, plus the university options). The polished, beveled hour markers and silver minute/second track sit on a raised level of the same blue. The Axia logo is applied at 12 o’clock and looks great. I could have done without a date window, but it’s inoffensive and the polished ring around it makes it more than just an afterthought. Polished alpha-style hands round out the dial; they are unlumed, which is appropriate for this style of watch. In its totality, the dial is an exceptionally clean watch face with some extra character, allowing for some versatility to an otherwise dressy watch.

Flipping the watch over, a display caseback is fastened in by screws and shows of the decorated Sellita SW200 movement. You can’t go wrong with this ETA 2824 clone, and it’s a staple among microbrands seeking that “Swiss” moniker. The polished caseback is sparsely populated with watch details and the watches number of 500 units.

Finally, we come to the bracelet and strap options. On the site, the Kairos is shown with one of two bracelet options: oyster style or 5-link. Neither will cost you extra, though I also think neither look great. Dress watches look weird on bracelets. That’s what I’ve got to say about that. If anything, just get the bracelet so you have it as an option—they usually cost more to buy later, and you can always take it off and swap proper straps. I received my Kairos on a very comfortable brown leather strap with a butterfly clasp. The clasp made for easy sizing and less stress on the strap itself, meaning it will last a bit longer. Further, the watch paired well with multiple straps in my arsenal, as you can see.

While I’d put this watch squarely on the formal side of the Watch Style Spectrum™, there are places it diverges from the archetype of a classic dress watch: the date window, the minute track, the layered dial, the lug chamfer. They all serve to add a bit of pep to a typically staid watch style, and I'm a fan. At $649, the watch is priced at the high end of fair market value. However, right now they’re on sale for just $449, which is a great deal. If you’re in the market for a dress watch that has a bit more versatility than your Calatrava, the Axia Kairos may just be it for you. It’s available here, now.⬩

This morning, Martenero launched their first diver on Kickstarter. The Belgrano, as it is called, is a stunning mid-sized watch that carries the brand’s distinctively clean, modern, and colorful aesthetic. It also happens to be their most affordable to date, with early bird rewards starting at just $279 and a full retail of only $395.

Marenero describes their style as “tradition refreshed,” which is an apt description of the Belgrano. As you would expect from a dive watch, it carries a 200m water resistance rating, 120-click unidirectional bezel, signed screw-down crown, sapphire crystal, and a liberal dose of C1 SuperLuminova. Then it gets refreshing.

For starters, the stainless steel case measures 39mm wide, 46mm long, and 13.4mm thick from case back to crystal (note, the thickness listed on the Kickstarter page is an error). In my opinion, this should make it just about the perfect size for daily wear. Brushed and polished finishes and bombé lugs lend it a sophisticated air. A matching 20mm flat-link bracelet comes standard. It tapers to a 16mm deployant clasp for a proper vintage look.

Then we get to the bezel and dial, and the style just pops. The bezel insert is acrylic, a feature I love for its gloss and depth. The semi-gloss dial is multi-layered, with a mild sunburst finish and applied markers. Martenero always rolls out positively joyous color combinations on their watches. The Belgrano comes in white with blue accents, dark blue with orange, black with electric blue, and red with white. All are lovely, but that red… damn! It just leaps off the dial, grabs you by the lapels, and gives you a good shake. I really like the equally flaming bezel that has the first quarter delineated in white, flipping the usual dive watch formula on its head.

Inside the Belgrano is a Seiko NH35 automatic. This 24 jewel, 21.6k bph movement is known for its accuracy, reliability, ease of service, and affordability. That last part seals the deal for me as I will take a solid Japanese unit over a pricier Swiss rival any day.

The Belgrano is smart, stylish, and at the Kickstarter prices, a pretty nice bargain to boot. In fact, I backed it myself. The red one, man. I just had to have the red one.

If you want in, head over to the Belgrano Kickstarter page by Friday, May 22, 2020. ⬩

Today's Guest Bum is @watchmakers.daughter from Instagram. "The hazard of being a watchmaker's kid is that you don't actually remember your first watch, but it does mean that you always had something fun to talk about at show-and-tell," she says. "I had no choice but to love watches from a young age. When I'm not hanging off the side of a bridge in my real job as a structural engineer, I enjoy finding vintage watches that the internet has forgotten."

Vintage women's watches are criminally overlooked by watch collectors, writers, and dealers today. There are some elements of current fashion that inform this: the trend towards larger watches for women, the desire for a sportier aesthetic, and the fact that women proportionally make up a pretty small segment of the watch enthusiast market. But I think there are some elements of misinformation that play a part as well. People have told me that there isn't much variety in vintage women's watches, there are no tool or sports watches that were made for women, there are no technologically interesting women's watches, that women's watches have inferior specifications, and the evergreen trope that women aren't interested in watches enough to care about vintage pieces.

If it were true that women have little interest in watches, then Tudor wouldn't have a 32mm Black Bay, Zenith wouldn't have a 36mm Defy, and Breitling wouldn't have just dropped a 35mm Navitimer. The conventional wisdom has clearly got their facts wrong, so I'm going to debunk each of these myths one by one.

Myth #1: There isn't much variety in vintage women's watches

False. Exhibit A: My own collection. I don't claim to have a full cross-section of vintage women's watches, but as you can see from the photos here, there has long been a wide variety of styles, sizes, and genres of watches targeted at women, starting from the very first wristwatches. There are dress watches, cocktail watches, divers of every specification, field watches, sports watches, and even watches designed specifically for nurses. I don't personally have any field or nurses watches as their defining characteristic of a fully numbered dial (and a nurse's watch typically had a red seconds hand) don't interest me aesthetically, but they're definitely out there.

Myth #2: There are no tool/sports watches that were made for women

So. Very. Wrong. Many of the brands that made the most iconic men's dive watches also produced women's models. The Zodiac Seawolf, Omega Seamaster 120, Tudor Submariner, Bulova Snorkel, Rado Captain Cook Mark 2, Doxa Sub 300, and Certina DS all had variants for women as did Seiko, Citizen ... the list goes on. I do find it interesting the Rolex never made a smaller version of the Submariner, but speculation as to the rationale of that oversight will have to wait for another time. The women's models of the above watches were different in only one way: they were smaller. The movements used kept the same timekeeping standards (we'll get into movement specifics when we bust Myth #3), the cases were made in similar shapes out of the same high-grade steel, and the bezels function in the same way. The biggest difference is that these watches were 30-50% smaller than the men's versions. To me, that's a huge achievement in micromachining and craftsmanship that doesn't get talked about nearly enough.

Myth #3: There are no technologically interesting women's watches

*error buzzer* Did you know that the first full rotor automatic movement released by Omega, the cal. 450, was for the Omega Ladymatic released in 1953? The first full rotor automatic for a men's watch was the cal. 470 and was released about six months later. That's right, Omega figured out how to get bi-directional winding into a 17mm movement before they put one into a men's watch. Rado had a definite "hold my beer" moment when they put a day-date movement into a 26mm watch, and Seiko developed a hi-beat chronometer grade calibre (the 1944 movement) that they put into 25-28mm watches in the late 1960s. In more recent times, the Bulova Precisionist movement is only about 25mm in diameter, making it the ideal size for a 30-36mm watch, so the 40+mm Precisionist watches Bulova also sells have the same movement, but also a massive plastic spacer to keep it in place.

Myth #4: Women's watches have inferior specifications

Wrong again. As discussed when I busted Myth #3, there are many vintage women's watches that have equivalent specifications to the men's watches they were sold alongside. I think one of my favorite examples of this is the Hamilton "Milady's Watch of Accuracy," and yes, that's the actual name as first seen in the 1923 Hamilton dealer's catalog. It was a wristwatch with a Hamilton 986 movement marketed specifically for women who were interested in accurate timekeeping: "women Technicians and nurses ... girls entering schools or colleges, while Sportswomen will appreciate the smartness as well as the accuracy." The advertisement even highlighted the fact that the bracelet was detachable and therefore could be easily sterilized. The targeting of wristwatches at women really indicated a movement towards women being active outside of the home, away from the mantle or grandfather clock in the hall. The men's version, "Men's Strap Watch," used the same exact movement manufactured to the same standards. As I pointed out earlier, brands like Rolex, Omega, and Seiko were all churning out chronometer-certified movements for women's watches right alongside the men's calibres. The depth certifications for an Omega Seamaster 120 or Bulova Snorkel (120m and 666ft, respectively) were the same for both the women's and men's versions of the watch. The idea that women's watches as a whole had inferior specifications for the time is very inaccurate.

Myth #5: Women aren't interested in vintage pieces

Holy sweeping generalization, Batman! Now, I can't say that I've done a scientific study on the subject, but based on my observations on Instagram, Twitter, and the watch blogosphere, I think as a proportion of watch enthusiasts as a whole, there are about equal numbers of men and women who are really into vintage pieces. There are many lady collectors I know who have vintage collections to make a grown Hodinkee fan weep, and just as many gentleman collectors who have zero interest in anything made before 1990. And that's fine. Everyone should love what they love. But stereotypes are no reason to ignore a large swath of the available vintage watches out there. Consider this a call to talk more about the place of vintage women's watches in the larger timeline of watch innovation and development in the last 100 years.

As I've discussed, there are a lot of technical, aesthetic, and social milestones that are tied to the development of women's watches through the years and more research and thought should be put into this topic, especially if we want to continue to expand the watch enthusiast community. ⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

I was surprised by the Blacklist Divematic. I wasn’t expecting the level of finish and overall quality that arrived in my mailbox. On paper and in more generic product photos, it has a very “just another dive watch” vibe that robs it of deserved plaudits. According to the man behind the brand, this is an unfortunately common reaction. People don’t realize how good the watch is until they’ve got it in their hands, on their wrists. So, let me start here by saying that whatever impressions you have of the Blacklist Divematic, don’t let what you’ve seen fool you: this is a seriously good watch.

Blacklist Watches was founded by Justin Eterovich in 2013 as a college side hustle, but after he graduated, the brand was so successful that he went full-time. Building off the success of the Blacklist marque, the brand has also established Aquanero, Archon, and Harbinger as outlets for designs that don’t really fit under Blacklist. The Divematic is the most recent offering from Blacklist and comes in a variety of colors; I had the cobalt navy and meteorite colorways in for review.

The 43mm case is startlingly elegant, especially for a dive watch and especially for its size. The keys are the twin polished chamfers running along the top and bottom edge of the midcase, stretching from lug to lug and expanding over the crown guards. Another added facet is the polished chamfer on the interior of the lugs—quite a nice touch that sets the Divematic apart not just from other divers, but from most watches. And at only 12mm thick with lugs that drop below the caseback, the otherwise brush-finished watch hugs the wrist perfectly. A sloped bezel helps the watch wear well both on the weekend and under the cuff—if divers at the office are your thing.

The insert on the ridged bezel is lumed (though not as brightly as the dial), matched to the dial, and operates perfectly, with a satisfying click (120 of them) and no back play. There was a bit of misalignment on the two models I had in, but I was able to see many examples with perfect alignment; misalignments seem to be the exception as opposed to the rule (unlike with Seiko). The screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, nestled in the crown guards and emblazoned with the Blacklist ‘B’, is easy to operate and ensures 200M water resistance. With this case, all its slopes and seemingly perfect sizing mean you don’t feel the full size of the 43mm.

A flat sapphire crystal furthers the modern aesthetic and gives way to a wonderfully patterned dial that is engaging without distracting. Obviously, if you go for the meteorite dial, you’ll have tons of light play on the various striations and fragments. The wave dial is well-defined and low-relief, catching all the light thrown at it, without compromising legibility. The dial is a custom design and achieves its goal of seeming like an illusion as if it’s in motion. There could’ve been much more dial text, but the Blacklist Divematic exercises a bit of restraint, with small text at 6 o’clock and the logo and brand at 12.

The hour markers and hands are equally bold and very well lumed (Super-LumiNova). As I mentioned above, the lume on the dial and hands overpower the bezel lume to a degree that makes the bezel seem lackluster. The lollipop seconds hand is a bright orange to match the other orange accents on the watch. I’m a fan of this dial: it’s big and open, balanced (no date!), and highly legible.

On the reverse, the watch features a screw-down caseback with alternating finishes and a sapphire display. Seen through the back is the Japanese Miyota 9039. This is one of my favorite movements used in the microbrand world. It’s a proper no date mechanism, which means you’ve got no dead crown position, and it’s extremely robust as it’s based on the tried and true 9015. On top of that, it’s a good deal thinner than some of the alternatives, which is why the Divematic is 12mm thick instead of 14mm.

It’s not often that a bracelet gets me hyped, but here we are, fully hyped, near the end of the review. Yes, you can pretty easily pair this watch with any strap of your choice (depending on the dial you choose), but the fully-brushed, oyster style bracelet is fantastic. Fitted integrated end links mean no searching your watch box for strays and a perfect fit with the watch case. The bracelet comes off and on easily and is easy to adjust, with standard pins securing the solid links.

The real hero here is the clasp. If you’re familiar with modern Rolex clasps, you’ll recognize this one, as it’s a clone. A branded flip-lock secures the main clasp, which features a spring-loaded end which is pulled up to release the clasp. Hidden microadjustments are made using a spring bar, and keep the clasp looking sleek. What’s important is that you know this is a solid bracelet that’ll never leave you worried about the watches security on your wrist.

The Blacklist Divematic sells for $749. And I think it’s perfectly priced. It’s not a steal. It’s not a rip-off. It’s spot-on. You’re getting every dollar’s worth. I’d love the bezel lume to be slightly better. But it’s readable in the dark, and that’s all it has to be. If you want the meteorite dial, you’ll have to cough up an extra $500, which is a heavy premium to pay for a little bit of texture and shimmer—plus, you’d have to give up the great wave dial.

The Divematic is available in nine different color combinations, two of which are the pricier meteorite dial. While I’m partial to a few, you probably can’t go wrong with any of them. If you’re sold, you can head over to the Blacklist site and get yours now. Enjoy that wave dial.⬩

Every regular Time Bum reader probably knows that Bill McDowell and I partner up every year to host the District Time Watch Show. As such, you may think I have a bit of a bias when reviewing his watches. I don’t believe I do, but now you have full disclosure, make of it what you will. With that, I will turn my attention to his latest release, the Tidewater, which I happen to believe is a damn fine watch.

Named for the Atlantic coastal plain on Maryland and Virginia, the American-assembled Tidewater is McDowell Time’s first diving watch. As such, it is rated for 200m water resistance, has a screw-down crown, AR-coated sapphire crystal, and a unidirectional 120-click timing bezel. Bezel action is smooth but has a bit of play. Its brushed stainless steel cushion case bears a passing resemblance to that of the 39mm McDowell Time Maxton Chronograph, but it is an all-new design. For starters, at 42mm wide and 50mm long, it is significantly larger, although it’s 13mm thickness does not seem quite so apparent when spread out over the Tidewater’s larger surface area. A beveled outer edge slims the lugs.

A 42mm square is not what you would call small on the wrist. This watch has a seriously aggressive presence, feeling closer to 43-44mm. Even though it fit between my wrist bones, it was still an imposing chunk on my 6.75” wrist, making it a strictly weekend warrior for me. On the other hand (or wrist), folks like Bill, who have bigger forearms, can pull it off far better, and could probably even carry off the black version with a suit.

Low profile crown guards flank a pleasantly restrained crown. Seriously, folks, I’ve got nothing against big crowns, but does every diver need a beer can at 3 o’clock? I much prefer a broad, but comparatively short, head like this one that provides more than ample grip without disrupting the lines of the case. It is signed, of course, with a deeply embossed MT logo.

On the Tidewater’s flip side is an exhibition window to show off the Swiss Sellita SW200 Automatic. You know the one, it’s the well regarded ETA 2824 clone with 26 jewels, a 28.8k per hour beat rate, and 38-hour power reserve. I’ve got no issue with the Swiss workhorse. I just question the decision to show it off. I mean, it’s neatly finished, but not particularly decorated. If it had a custom rotor, I would think differently, but as it is, I’d have been happier with a solid case back and some interesting art.

McDowell went with a glossy ceramic bezel insert in a bright royal blue on this model (blue and black dial/black bezel versions are also available), in which every engraved mark is filled with C3 SuperLuminova. The applied and polished bar markers and sword hands follow suit, lighting the face like a Christmas tree when the lights go down.

It is a clean dial, uncluttered and highly legible, accented with delightful pops of orange on the logo, hour pips, water resistance rating, and lollipop second hand. While all three versions are attractive, I like the summery sporty look created by the contrast of the bright white against the vivid blue and orange.

The Tidewater also has McDowell Time’s first bracelet, an aggressive 22mm with solid ends, chiseled links, and single-ended screws. It looks great, has a wide range of adjustment, and a signed, push-button, flip-lock clasp. I’m relieved that Bill resisted the trend towards the expanding, box-type clasps that so many microbrand dive watches have chosen lately as I have yet to find one that does not have unduly sharp, furniture scratching corners. The Tidewater’s more conventional unit has no such drawback. There is absolutely nothing to fault on this bracelet.

That said, the Tidewater looks pretty amazing on the British Tan Horween leather pictured on the site. It is not an option right now, but it would definitely be worth it to pick one up from your favorite strap supplier. It’s a knockout combination.

I really like the Tidewater. The bright colors, clean dial, and square case geometry to provide a large look without going overboard or cluttering things up. It is a big, well-appointed watch with a crisp design that also happens to come at a great price. Full retail will be $549, but you can grab one now for $475, in stock, no waiting - a sweet deal for a proper dive watch packing a Swiss automatic.

Intro pricing won’t last forever, so I’d suggest you head on over to McDowellTime.com and check it out. ⬩

Review and photos by Mike Razak

When my wife tells me her day was busy, I invariably ask, “Good busy?” Busy can be overwhelming, but busy can be also harmonious and you can find that magical flow to your workday. The Spectre Frostbite is good busy. There is a lot going on, but it all works, it all comes together. The convex, rifled center dial; the radial band around that; the scarab case; the cutouts; the banded crown. It could’ve so easily gone wrong but it jibes so well. While other watches have attempted to do the "successful busy" look, the Spectre Frostbite does it better than any I can think of.

The Frostbite is Singapore-based Spectre Time’s second model (third if you count the budget-friendly quartz “Classique,” which I do not). The brand’s founder, Gulshan, left an illustrious career with Singapore Airlines (widely considered the best in the world), to pursue his dream of creating a watch brand. His first mechanical offering was the Phantom. This IWC Ingenieur/Genta-inspired sports watch has always seemed like Spectre was holding back, playing it safe. It looks nice, and I’m sure it is, but the Frostbite sees the brand unleash their creativity in a new and amazing way.

Perhaps just as impressive as the Spectre Frostbite’s design, is how the case scoffs at its own dimensions and wears so incredibly well. At 14.5mm thick, 42mm across, and nearly 50mm lug-to-lug, this watch should be a disaster on the wrist. But like your overweight friend who’s surprisingly fast, it defies expectations. The key is both the rubber strap (which I’ll cover in a bit) and the contours of the case. The lugs drop down below the caseback to really grab onto your wrist and are in fact concave on their back.

I’ve described this as a scarab case, as for me it brought to mind some sort of futuristic biotechnology, as if at any moment it would pop off my wrist, animate itself, and scurry away. Or perhaps there’s an ancient temple into which it can be placed to open a tomb containing unimaginable treasure (and a curse, because there’s always a curse). At any rate, it features even brushing on its flat surfaces, with deep, frosted cutouts on nearly every facet. I love the angles and depth to this case; I imagine if the cutouts weren’t there, it would appear half-done, unimpressive.

A deeply grooved bezel with a dial-matched lumed insert was easy to grip but quite stiff. This will be remedied for production models, and the lume here (and elsewhere) will be brightened. You may notice what appears to be dusting on the bezel insert: this is intentional, but as it makes the watch appear dirty, will be removed from the final run. A chunky 4 o’clock crown has a dial-matched band and is etched with the Spectre logo. It’s highly functional, easy to screw down both on and off wrists. Gulshan made a great decision to have this at 4 and utilize the lug as a crown guard, instead of creating a huge protuberance at 3. Bravo.

Here’s the part where I talk about the dial. The part you‘ve been waiting for. Step into the watch, past the sapphire crystal with a dome perfectly arced to continue the slope created by the bezel. The first thing to catch your eye will undoubtedly be the center dial. That James Bond design is apparently referred to as rifling, and the entire center dial is convex, sloping gently down at the edges. The lines are deep and crisp, and the copper dial I had for review had a tantalizing metallic sheen. The logo at 12 is interesting in that it is half-applied, half printed—this is intentional, but that doesn’t mean I understand it. You’ll also find plenty of dial text on this area—I could’ve done without the large underlined model name. This section of the dial is the star of the show: it’s got all the solos, all the great lines, and it’s the prettiest thing on stage.

But the dial holds a bit more to it. Beyond the convex cushion of the center dial is a thin band of pebbling, radial rings, and then another band of pebbling. Piano-pedal shaped minute markers (I can’t describe them any better) span the two outer sections, with a minute track on the outermost. The handset has a great design, and I like the brushing, but it would be improved aesthetically if the lume covered more real estate. As it is, the hands feel a bit flat against the texture and depth of the rest of the dial. Lume is adequate at best but as I mentioned, it will be upgraded for production.

Flipping the watch over, you’re greeted with an 8-bit rendition of a scene from Jaws. Or perhaps it’s a third grader’s depiction of his dad’s scary fishing trip. Maybe it’s the last thing an engraver’s apprentice did before he was dismissed. In any case, it’s terrible and will be replaced by a much higher quality shark graphic for the production run. The screw-down caseback on the Spectre Frostbite ensures 200M of water resistance and shields a Seiko NH35 automatic movement. This movement is dated and a conscious decision was made to exclude the date function (despite the requests of some brand fans). Not only would slapping a date window be sacrilege on a dial like this but cutting into the dial’s many layers would be a huge production obstacle. So it is that we have a dead crown position, which I didn’t notice because I was ogling the rifled center dial.

The Frostbite comes stock with a tire-tread style rubber strap, which has a nice bit of give and flexibility that only furthers the comfort afforded by the case. The strap features a hefty branded tang claps, quick-release spring bars, and the ends are shaped to the watch, so there’s no gap. I found a bit of difficulty in refastening the rubber strap but using a spring bar tool helped. Due to the placement of the lug holes, I struggled to put any but my thinnest of NATO strap on the watch—it looked good but it was a pain. Fortunately, the case will be notched between the lugs to allow for more variety with straps.

There’s no denying that this watch will not be for everyone. Some will be unfortunately and unfoundedly scared off by the specs. Some will be overwhelmed by the design. Some just won’t get it. That’s ok. Because for those who do get it, it will be an absolute joy. I review plenty of watches here, as is obvious. And after a while, you start seeing the same old thing; there’s usually only so much you can do with a diver. Part of my affinity for this watch is that it’s doing quite a lot differently. At the very least, it’s bringing a lot of elements together that haven’t been combined before. If that all weren’t enough, the finishing of the case will be even crisper (which will push this over the edge into Fully Awesome territory). If you’re even a little intriguing, I can say you’ll be quite pleased with this watch. Certainly, given the fact that some things will be improved for production (lume, bezel, case/caseback), there’s a tiny leap of faith required, but I think it will be well worth it. The Kickstarter campaign is live, and you can get this stunner for just under $279—a ridiculous price for a watch that packs so much heat.⬩

Before you even ask, the answer is no; Stalingrad is not a Russian watch brand. It hails from Singapore and is named for the battle, not the city. That aside, the Kursk they gave me for this review is a big, beefy, bronze brute, and it can be yours if you enter (and, of course, win) the giveaway at the bottom of this piece.

The Kursk is a 200m diver in a decidedly Italian style. Its brushed bronze cushion case is 45mm wide, 51mm long from lug-to-lug, and 15.5mm thick from the case back to the top its domed sapphire crystal. One would hardly call it small, but the wire lugs do tend to keep your eyes focused on the central case, making the watch appear slightly smaller, even on my modest 6.75” wrist.

Buyers may choose from three color schemes: a green dial with an antique bronze-finish bezel, blue dial with a blue bezel, and the black with matte black you see here. The bezel moves cleanly through its 120-click rotation. Why does a bezel with no discernable markings rotate? I haven’t the slightest idea, but it hardly matters. Its primary function is to look cool, and it does, although a lume pip would have gone a long way here.

As you would expect from a diver, the crown is large, easy to grip, and screws down. Unlike the case, it is not bronze but antiqued stainless steel, as is the case back frame and the signed buckle. This, I confess, let me down. I can understand why they did it. Given that bronze is reactive and forms a patina, you generally don’t want it right up against your skin, and because it develops a patina over time, you don’t want bronze parts touching each other as the oxidation can fuse them. The complicated way around this is to engineer your crown, so the bronze never contacts the case. The easier route is to use a different material. Stalingrad took the second route. I would have preferred it be the same material as the case but the grizzled antique finish is pretty wild in and of itself, and also enough to that of the case so as not to draw untoward attention.

The Kursk sports a California dial, and you know I love that. Each numeral rises high off the sand textured dial and is topped with a layer of green Swiss lume. Rounded paddle hands are a nice touch. They are gold, as is the red-tipped second hand and the frame around the porthole date window.

Inside is a 21-jewel Japanese automatic movement. While Stalingrad does not identify it, it looks like the stalwart Miyota 8215, here adorned with a signed rotor.

Each Kursk is equipped with a 24mm black leather strap on quick-release pins. The thick slab suits the watch’s burly nature, and I like the way the tan stitching complements the case. The “Stalingrad” engraving on the buckle’s broad, flat frame is deep and clear. As with the crown, I would have preferred it the be actual bronze. Because of its larger surface area, the difference between the yellow, coated buckle, and the natural patina of the case is rather obvious when placed side-by-side but not terribly apparent when it is secured to the opposite side of your wrist.

My biggest concern about the Kursk is its $600 price tag. This puts it up against some stiff competition like the $650 BOLDR Odyssey Bronze. If you can trade bronze for brass, then the well-equipped $349 Maranez Rawai offers a similar look for even less. Both top the Kursk on specifications and have crowns and buckles made from the same material as their cases. Still, the Kursk has a look of its own, particularly the blue bezel model. If you would like to see more or make a purchase, head over to the Stalingrad Watches Webstore. Before you do, enter the giveaway below and you might just win this one for the outstanding price of "free."⬩

This sponsored post is a paid advertisement. All text and photos were provided by the brand.

Just launched on Kickstarter, the Parkdale Automatic is the first timepiece designed and manufactured by Langdon Watches. The Parkdale Automatic is a beautiful casual/dress watch that features a Miyota automatic movement, 41mm stainless steel case, and genuine leather strap. It is as affordable as it beautiful, pre-order pricing starts at just $129 USD OR $180 CAD.

Sexy curves with beautiful finishing, this watch is best described as neo-vintage. The Parkdale effortlessly infuses dress and sport, with a design that is refined and restrained, respectable and lacking pretension. It’s a design that is born to be a classic, timeless piece.

The dial design of the Parkdale can be described as simple, but it's far from boring. Here the combination of baton-style indexes, and the location of the seconds track on the outer edge of the dial, gives a more spacious visual impression. The concave seconds sub-dial sits at the 6 o'clock position and has a mini dauphine style hand that matches the gorgeous hour and minute hands. The classic minimalist style goes even a step further by removing the often debated date window - leaving only a gorgeous, uncluttered dial.

The watch case is both playful and chic. The design screams classic 20th century, with its cylindrical body and tapering lugs that protrude out. Polished throughout, it is elegant in profile, with a prominent rounded bezel. The case design has an elegantly slim profile, thanks to the flatness of the crystal. At only 11 millimeters tall, the Parkdale is perfectly proportioned with 41mm in overall diameter, a lug to lug of 48mm, and a weight that still conveys a feeling of quality while on the wrist.

Powering the Parkdale is a Miyota 82S5. This 21 jewel, 21.6k bph automatic is a true no-date movement, so you won't be fumbling with a phantom crown position.

At only $129USD, Langdon's philosophy is simple: "Great Watches for Great prices," and the Parkdale lives up to this motto.

If you want in, head over to the Langdon Kickstarter page to reserve your watch now. ⬩

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