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Labor Day Deals

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Looking for a watch sale this weekend? Here are some good ones, but move fast because these deals expire after Monday.

Get up to 40% off Boschett diver's watches. Prices marked on the site.

Torgoen is offering 20% off the T16.

Take 20% off DaLuca straps and accessories with code laborday16.

Panatime code labor16 will give you 20% off.

All in-stock Helgray watches are 15% off with code laborday.

Enjoy 20% off the Smith & Bradley Automatic collection.

Lüm-Tec is running a 16% sale with code laborday16.


Air Blue has a site wide sale but the best deal is Navigator or Type 20 Chronograph for just $99. 





Metro DC Microbrand Meetup

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Alright folks, you've read about plenty of microbrands in these virtual pages, now it's time to come and check them out in person. Your very own Time Bum and Bill McDowell of McDowell Time are hosting the Metro DC Microbrand Meetup, a watch show and get-together. The event takes place on Saturday, November 5, 2016, from 11:00 am to 3:30 pm, just across the Potomac from our nation's capitol at Virtue Feed & Grain in historic Old Town Alexandria (106 S. Union St., Alexandria, Virginia 22314 to be precise). 

Virtue may sound like farming supply store, but it is actually an excellent restaurant and bar. There will be areas for microbrands to display their products and for enthusiasts to share their collections. We envision this as more of a show than a marketplace, but we do plan to have WiFi enabled laptops available so people can visit microbrand websites and place orders. 

The DC Metro Microbrand Meetup is sponsored by DoxaDiver's Watches Facebook Group (DWFG), Gruppo GammaHager WatchesHemel Watches, Huguenin, Janis Trading Co. (NTH and Lew & Huey)KratosMelbourne Watch Co.MercerSchmutz, and ZelosOther participating brands include Aevig, Aquadive, Jenny, Manchester Watch Works, Redux, Ventus, and Watches By NickI suspect we will see a few more joining our ranks in the next few weeks.

Still not convinced? Then consider the door prizes. Attendees can enter to win a Borealis Estoril, Prometheus Poseidon, or Stuckx Bull. That's right my friends; we are giving away watches! That's reason to attend right there. Also, Ariel Soltura of DWFG will bring Isofrane straps and Doxa books for even more door prizes.  

Once you have finished browsing the micros, check out the private collections in the enthusiast area, and maybe share your own. Previous DC GTGs have attracted an amazing array of watches from private collections, and this one promises the same. Whatever you've got, we want to see it. From everyday beaters to pricey exotics and obscure vintage pieces, we welcome them all. 

Finally, as the day winds down, join our panel of owners for a little Q&A. Find out what drives them, what they are working on next, and what life is like for an entrepreneur in the small-batch watch world. Everyone will have their war stories, and since we're hosting this at a bar, you can bet there will be some good ones! 

So what will we charge you to attend this magnificent event? If you are an enthusiast, it's free! Walk-ins are welcome, but we do ask that you register by emailing microbrandmeetup@gmail.com. When you do, please let us know if you will be showing your collection. If you are watch brand or related business, email us for display and sponsorship information.

So what are you waiting for? Get this on your calendar and get your bad selves to Alexandria to check out your favorite microbrand watches, have a beer with their makers, hang out with fellow watch nerds, and just generally geek out on your favorite hobby. 

See stay tuned for more updates. This is going to be good!


TACS Automatic Vintage Lens

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It is not uncommon to find watches drawn from the designs of dissimilar objects. In these pages, I've reviewed racing car watches, submarine watches, even espresso machine watches. At their best, themed watches capture the essence of the original object; but at their worst, they are campy caricatures. Bearing that in mind, I approached the camera-inspired TACS Automatic Vintage Lens with a healthy dose of skepticism. I'm glad I gave it a chance as the Vintage Lens has some clever elements that make it an enjoyable design exercise, even if it is perhaps a bit flawed as a wristwatch.
Yoshiaki Motegi of Japan is the creative talent behind TACS. He believes that design should embrace everyday elements. In this case, he has embraced vintage cameras. The connection between camera and watch seems odd at first, but makes sense when you consider how film cameras and mechanical watches are both analog devices in a digital age. In fact, a friend who recently returned from Japan told me he noticed that most shops that sell vintage watches there also sell vintage cameras, so perhaps the connection is even more obvious than I thought. 
The analog camera theme is apparent from the moment you open the box. The warranty card is the size of a 35mm slide and tucked into a little cardboard sleeve. The watch itself is shrouded with a protective leather cap - a lens cap, which is a pretty cool item with its embossed face and gold rivets. It almost seems a shame that it will likely only be used once. You could conceivably wear it with the watch as a hunter style protective cover, but that would be somewhat awkward. No, this is just for memorable presentation, and it certainly does the trick.  
Pop that cover and you will find a convincing replica of a camera lens. Under the domed sapphire crystal is a thick sapphire fish-eye with a wildly exaggerated curve. In its center is an aperture through which the movement and inner part of the black and gold baton hands are visible. The minute hand extends past the aperture and a third of it actually passes under the fish-eye. Below the second crystal is the dial's floor, which is black with two stepped rings and a recessed rectangle. The dome-within-a-dome is a tremendous effect, and it does feel like you are staring down the business end of an SLR, but it is not exactly easy to read. The hands are black and gold against the respective colors of the exposed movement and dial, but it really does not provide enough contrast for readability. The markings inside the dial are also photography themed like distance scales and aperture settings. They are another clever touch but provide no assistance in measuring time.

The bezel continues the illusion. It looks for all the world like a focus ring and being bidirectional without any detents, it feels like one too. The printing on its narrow insert also carries the theme. You don't normally see diameter printed on a watch bezel but you would on a camera lens, so it makes sense here. What it lacks, is any form of useful timing marker, so even though it rotates, the bezel serves no purpose.
The watch has a massive 47mm wide barrel-shaped case. Short, angular lugs limit its length to 51mm, which is just barely enough to fit my 6.5" wrist. The case has two layers of brushed and IP treated stainless steel: gold for the main body with a black upper section and case back ring. The topmost layer is set into the case and is highly textured with pale striations. It covers only three-quarters of the surface; the top left corner has a recess filled with a black decorative screw. A single, drilled crown guard pokes out below the polished and signed crown. At first, I thought it might have been a mounting tab for a hinged crown guard, but taking a step back, I noticed how it was mirrored by the black screw in the top left corner. I believe these are meant to look like the attachment points for a camera strap. 

The signed, push-pull crown is the only polished element on the watch. It has no texture to the edge, but its size makes it easy to grip. The Vintage Lens is hardly a tool watch, but it is sealed for 100m water resistance, which is probably far more than your old Nikon. 
In profile, the case is 16mm thick and decidedly angular, with sheer sides and hard edges. TACS wisely left the branding off the dial and committed it to an engraving between the lugs. The model number is on a plate affixed to the left side. This sizable chunk of steel straps on with an equally hefty 24mm Horween strap that tapers to a 22mm, screwed-in, Pre-V style buckle. The brown leather displays a pronounced pull-up effect when bent for a proper vintage look. 

The TACS is not just designed in Japan, it is made there as well, and carries a Japanese movement too; a 21 jewel Miyota 82S0 automatic decorated in gold with Geneva stripes and a skeletonized rotor. The mechanism is visible through both the dial and the display case back.
In the end, the watch is an intriguing novelty. It nails the camera look, that fish-eye dial is quite a sight, and it has some clever details, but it certainly trades form over function. The TACS Automatic Vintage Lens will list for about $550 with a Kickstarter price of $429. Look for the crowdfunding campaign to start around September 27.

Pro: Crazy crystal lens.
Con: Oversized, awkward to read.
Sum:  A camera lover's watch, but maybe not a watch lover's watch.


Crowdfunded Watches - September Edition

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Aspiring microbrands must have been hard at work this year because there is yet another bumper crop of affordable watches on Kickstarter and IndieGoGo. Let's have a look, shall we?


Pegasus Nettuno and Mercurio

Pegasus Watches Venezia (that's Venice, Italy to us Yanks) first popped on the scene with the Legionarius, a remarkably literal Rolex Sub homage powered by a humble quartz. Now, they are back with a mechanical version of the same, featuring a Miyota 9015 automatic. They are 42mm wide, rated for 200m, sporting domed sapphire crystals and 120-click bezels. Their hook is "aged in Italy," which is to say the watches have the creamy SuperLuminova and distressed leather straps that might appeal to someone with John Meyer's taste in watches, but not his budget. The Nettuno (solid color bezel) and Mercurio (two color bezel) start at just €300 (about $337 USD).

SaStek Time Speed Indicator

UK Aviation enthusiasts SasTek bring you the unique Time Speed Indicator. This 44mm disc watch offers a new approach to the traditional pilot's watch, drawing cues from air speed instruments and jet engine safety symbols. The result is clean, modern, and thoroughly unique. Specs include a sapphire crystal, SuperLuminova, and a Miyota 9015 automatic movement. I'd tell you more, but I'd rather save it for my full, hands-on review coming later this week. The watch starts at £265 (about $347 USD).

Elementa Aedifex

Elementa immediately grabbed by attention because it was created by fellow watch blogger, Jake Fogarty of ItsAllAboutWatches.com. When a watch critic creates a watch, expectations are high and your readers can be brutal (just ask the folks over at Worn & Wound). The Aedifex keeps things nice and simple with a classic reverse-panda chronograph design. The blue second hand and knurled bezel are tasty details. It is water-worthy to 100m and features a domed sapphire crystal and BWG9 SuperLuminova. Early bird pricing starts at $259.

LMTLS

This LMTLS watch is a minimalist quartz with a wood bezel and no vowels in the name, thereby hitting the Kickstarter cliché trifecta. It sells for only... YAWN. I'm bored already. How do these things keep getting funded? 

Laidback Freelancer

The Freelancer caught my eye with its distinctive, trippy dial. It mixes Arabic and Roman numerals, wood and stainless steel, filled and skeleton hands, and an industrial looking power reserve with a delicate crescent hour track. The Miyota 9130 automatic is canted a few degrees counter-clockwise in its 42mm case, placing the crown at 2:00. It's whimsical, and whimsical is not for everyone, but I like the risks they've taken here. The Freelancer starts at $395. 

TiMe22 Robusto

Now here is something interesting: a big, blunt hexagon hewn from T5 Titanium and packed full of Swiss goodness. The Robusto's funky case. small dial, and integrated link bracelet give it a kind of 70's swagger, especially with those Royal Blue or Mocha Brown dials. It measures a whopping 45mm across the beam but is only 10mm thick. Water resistance is 200m Buyers may opt for an ETA 955.112 quartz (€399/$448 USD) or 2824-2 automatic (€489/$549 USD). I wish it were smaller, but you should have a look at this one. It intrigues me. 

Wõitleja Watches Estonia 1918

Meanwhile, over at IndieGoGo, we have an offering from a country you may not associate with watchmaking. The Estonia 1918 pays homage to its country's 100th birthday with a 44x56mm CuSn8 bronze case fashioned after the instruments in WW1-era trains and heavy military equipment. I particularly like the way the hour markers incorporate "1918" and are a part of the case itself, floating above a glossy black enamel dial. Inside, beats a hand winding Unitas 6497-2, decorated with gold and visible through a sapphire display window. Only 100 Estonia 1918s will be made. You can get yours for €900 (about $1005 USD).

Photos courtesy of the watchmakers

SaStek Time Speed Indicator

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I've never seen a watch like the SaStek Watches Time Speed Indicator. Sure, I've had a few pilot's watches through these pages. I've seen fliegers, chronographs, instrument watches, and flight computers in all manner of cases and materials, but I've not seen one quite like this. I didn't know what to make of it in pictures, but once I had a prototype on my wrist for review, I knew SaStek has done something clever. You need to check it out.
The Time Speed Indicator is a disk watch, which is to say it uses rotating disks to indicate time instead of conventional hands. This is nothing new in and of itself as there have been many over the years. The disks either have markers to show position or they are printed with an index that acts as a mechanical digital readout (this latter kind enjoyed its heyday in the early 1970's). SaStek combines various hand and disk methods. The hour hand is all but hidden by an opaque roundel behind the flat sapphire crystal so just the triangular tip protrudes. The minutes are marked with a printed disk displayed through a window in the roundel. The second hand, if you can call it that, is a disk in the very center bearing a spiral, which does not allow precise timing so much as an indication of movement. 

This offbeat layout achieves a utilitarian look that evokes aircraft instruments without being too literal. There are no faux fasteners, airplane silhouettes, or false horizons here. Everything functions to tell time. But still, that minute window certainly looks like an air speed indicator. The radial arrangement of the hour markers lends an instrument feel, even though I can't say I've ever seen one with a readout that cool. The seconds disk is a particularly nifty touch, as only a true aviation geek would recognize it as the symbol used on jet engines to indicate rotation. 

It all seems counterintuitive at first but makes perfect sense once you've worn it a bit.  Granted, you cannot measure time to the second, but in daily life, few of us do. Minutes are easy enough to rattle off by reading the disk, and you can get an at-a-glance estimate by reading the  hour hand alone. The hash marks between the hours are in 15-minute intervals allowing quick "it's a quarter past" readings. You have to retrain your eye not to look for the familiar "big hand, little hand" display, but you adapt quickly. At night, one-handed timekeeping becomes essential as only the hour hand tip, numerals, and quarter-hour markers are illuminated.  
Aircraft allusions aside, it is a fetching look. The center roundel is gloss black and accented in orange on this "Arancio" model. The color is repeated in the minute display, hour markers, and hour hand. The minute and hour tracks are printed in white, as are the seconds display and brand name. The dial below lacks the shine of the roundel, but compensates with a concentric ring texture. My only quibble is that the orange minute display is difficult to read in low light. I suspect the Rosso (red) and Azzuro (blue) models would not be much better, but the bright Giallo (yellow) and pale Verde (green) might have sufficient contrast.

Like most pilot's watches, the Time Speed Indicator is big, measuring 44mm across and 52mm long, but it does not appear large. Dropped and faceted lugs, and a slimming black-on-PVD-black color scheme help, but I ascribe most of the credit to its positively svelte 9.5mm thickness. A bulky strap would undo this, so SaStek wisely chose a soft, lightly padded, two-piece calfskin that tapers from 24mm to a 22mm Pre-V style buckle (plain on the prototype, but signed on the final). As a result, it is a close and comfortable fit, even on my skinny 6.5"wrist. 

The 4 o'clock crown is knurled and signed. It is a push-pull affair and only sealed for 50m water resistance. This is par for the course for pilot's watches. I know airplanes and water don't generally mix but I do appreciate a bit more protection is what is essentially a tool watch. After all, what if I'm flying a seaplane? Well, more likely someone else would be flying the seaplane. I'd be in the back, and... Ok, ok, I've never been anywhere near a seaplane. The most likely scenario is that I'd drop my watch into the horrible blue water of an airplane lavatory. Still, a stronger seal would be welcome, perhaps in that last case most of all.
The case back is etched with a line drawing of a jet pilot in flight helmet and breathing mask. Behind it beats a familiar Miyota 9015 automatic. As faithful readers know, this 24-jewel, hand winding mechanical has become a favorite among affordable microbrands, but its hacking capability and 28.6k sweep are impossible to appreciate without a second hand. Now this is hardly a big deal, but as 9015 prices are on the rise, it does make me wonder if the less expensive 8215 might have done the trick and saved a few bucks to boot.

Quibbles aside, I enjoyed the hell out of this watch. It is comfortable, functional, and looks like nothing else in my collection. Best of all, it is inexpensive. You can still grab it on Kickstarter now for as low as $347, but act fast. The campaign ends October 1. 

Pro: Brilliant idea
Con: Middling water resistance
Sum: Sacrifices precision for design, but it makes it well worth the trade.







Preview: Ventus MorI

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After the success of the Caspian and Black Kite pilot's watches, Ventus is back on Kickstarter with a brass cased diver's watch, the MorI. Four variants are offered: black or brass bezel, blue or vintage lume. Black bezel models have an aluminum insert. All models have black dials and a 20mm strap. 
The watch takes its name from the 16th century Japanese daimyō Mōri Motonari. according to legand, he gave each of his three sons an arrow to break. They snapped easily. He then bound three arrows together and challenged them to do the same, but they could not. The lesson being that the three sons were stronger working together. The watch honors the story with the three arrows in its design: the dive bezel triangle, dial triangle and Ventus logo, all of which line up at 12:00. 
The Mori draws its style from classic 1950's divers, most notably in its sensible size. The watch measures 41mm wide, 48mm long, and 14mm thick to the top of the double domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal. It is a comfortable size for the office while still maintaining a sporty wrist presence. True to the Ventus aesthetic, it has an intricate sandwich dial with a layer of BGW3 or vintage C3 SuperLuminova and a color keyed 3 o'clock date wheel. The bezel markets are lumed as well - one of my favorite features. 
Of course, it's not just about looks. The Mori also features a 120-click unidirectional timing bezel, and it is rated for 300m of water pressure. On the flip side is a stainless steel case back decorated with an old school diving helmet. Inside, beats a Seiko NH35 automatic.

The Mori is a sharp design with all the right tool watch specs. Best of all, early birds can snap one up for the outstanding price of $199 USD ($269 SGD). Head over to Kickstarter and check it out yourself.

Photos courtesy of Ventus





More September Preorders

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Like I said last week, there are a bunch of brands launching pre-order campaigns this month - too many for one article. Here is part two.

Akrone

Flush with the success of the K-01, French micro Akrone returns with its sophomore offering, the logically named K-02. It is a titanium diver's watch with a ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, ETA 2892 automatic, and 267m water resistance. Why so precise? Because that's how deep it went while setting a cave diving record. I particularly like the horizon dial, intricately skeletonized hands, and knurled bezel. Kickstarter pricing starts at €542 ($605 USD) on a nylon strap. The titanium bracelet is an extra cost option.

Valachio 

I featured Valachio once before when they were funding the Pantium. It was a fairly common minimalist quartz but it had some interesting strap and hand colors, a domed crystal, and a very low price. After the campaign, they sent me a black and red one as a gift. I must say, it is a perfectly nice watch but the best part is that they made enough on the quartz to launch a new automatic watch, the Avantiam.

The new watch stays true to Valachio's modern aesthetic, kicking it up a notch with a fine-lined radial layout and porthole to display the balance wheel of the Miyota 90S5 within. The case is available in either polished stainless or PVD black or gold finishes. Refreshingly, it is just 37.5mm wide and 9.5mm thick. Interestingly, the knurled crown is positioned 13.84 degrees from 3 o'clock (roughly 3:30). It is an appealing piece and I love the fact that they went for a sub-40mm case. Kickstarter Early Bird pricing starts at $385 CAD ($295 USD). 

Visitor Watch Co.

A few months ago, I clued you in to some beautiful new models coming soon from Phil Rodenbeck of Visitor. Well, that day is here. Today, Visitor is opening pre-orders to the first group on the wait list. I got to sample all four as prototypes and I was blown away by their beauty and quality. Read my reviews of the Calligraph Linden, Duneshore Shallows, Duneshore Shallows Blacksand, and Vale Park Officer to find out why I think Phil is one of the best designers in the microbrand world, then head over to www.visitorwatchco.com for ordering info. 

Hamtun 

Newcomer Hamtun breaks onto the scene today with a 41mm titanium diver's watch. The H1 has a ceramic bezel, domed sapphire crystal, and is rated to 200m. The movement is a sturdy Seiko NH35A automatic. The face is a dark matte gray with one of three colors in its sandwich dial: white, blue, or a stealthy grey. Buyers may choose a titanium bracelet or silicone strap, but will get both of stretch funding goals are met. Kickstarter pre-orders start at a very appealing $199. The campaign goes live at noon US Eastern Standard Time. 

Votum

Votum was a Swiss brand that produced some nifty little numbers from the early 1960's through the 70's when it died in the quartz crisis. Now the brand may see new life with a funding campaign on Kickstarter. Four models are offered: Heritage, New Classic, Elegance, and Mechanical Date. The first three have a 41.5mm case with sapphire crystals, 100m water resistance, and clean, modern dials. The Heritage and New Classic use the ETA 2824-2, while the small seconds Elegance has a Stelita SW260 instead. The Mechanical Date uses a Stelita 221 in a 42mm case, and is distingushed by a date function that operates like a GMT, with a fourth hand that indicating the date on a rotating bezel. The utility of this feature eludes me but looks attractive enough. Indeed, all the watches are handsome, if a tad generic. The Kickstarter page shows several vintage Votum watches and I must admit I like all of them far better than the new models. Early Bird pricing starts at Fr 495 ($510 USD). 

Photos courtesy of the watchmakers 


Bremont Solo-37

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Today, I'm going outside of my $1000 price cap to review the Bremont Solo-37, which sells for about $3995. Can I still call myself The Time Bum and write about a watch four times costlier than my than my usual self-imposed limit? Of course I can. After all, it's my blog, and I can do whatever I want (remember that JLC Reverso?). Also, I write because I love watches, not because I love a particular price point, so when I get my hands on a watch as cool as this one, you better believe I'm going to tell you about it. Finally, I stayed true to my moniker by bumming it off of its owner, the generous Paul Hubbard of WatchOtaku.com
Bremont is an independent watchmaker based in Henley on Thames, England. Founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002, the company creates hand-built timepieces with modified Swiss movements, and many parts are now made in their manufacturing facility in Silverstone. The watches are COSC-certified chronometers, which means they must maintain accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds per day. They carry a 3-year warranty.
The Solo line comes in three sizes: 43mm, 37mm, and a diminutive 32mm. I am not a big guy, so I find I am increasingly drawn to mid-size watches so the 37mm hit the spot. Bremont offers it in black or white dials with silver or rose gold accents, and a brushed or rose gold bezel. This one is a Solo-30/SI-RG with a brushed stainless case and bezel, rose gold hands and markers, and a red circle on the second hand. The Solo-37 may be a modest size, but it is by no means delicate. It has sapphire crystals (slightly domed and anti-reflective coated up front, flat in the rear) and water resistance up to 100m. Even more impressive, the brushed stainless steel is hardened by a three-part process of carbon, heat, electrons, and presumably magic, to yield a claimed 2000Hv or about nine times the hardness of untreated stainless steel. 
Like most of the Bremont line, the Solo is aviation-inspired. Its navigator's triangle, sword hands, and luminous squares behind the Arabic numerals recall the post-war RAF-issued W10 and 6B watches made by Smiths and IWC, among others. Even so, one would hardly call the Solo an homage piece as it brims with its own distinctive elements and a level of finish those earlier, more utilitarian pieces often lacked. The metal dial is silvery white with just a hint of warmth that complements the rose gold hands and the applied, brushed markers. Interestingly, the navigator's "umlaut" and SuperLuminova markers reside on the angled chapter index, freeing space on the dial. Long markers at 6 and 9 o'clock balance the date window. 
Lovely as the dial may be, I think the case steals the show. Measuring 37mm wide, 43mm long, and 12.5mm thick, with 20mm lugs, it fits neatly on my 6.5" wrist but still conveys the stout, purposeful presence of a tool watch. Bremont calls the case construction "Trip-Tick," a 3-part design consisting of (1) an upper section from lug-to-lug encompassing (2) a separate central barrel fitted with (3) a display case back secured by five screws. You can best appreciate the case in profile. The upper part is a bridge, chamfered along the inside edge to form a dramatic arch terminating in tall, rounded lugs. Inside the arch is the barrel with two narrow channels cut across the sides to form three distinct bands. A coin-edged crown bears the Bremont propeller logo on its enameled head. 
Inside the Solo-37 beats a modified Calibre 11 1/2" BE-36AE (ETA 2836) automatic chronometer, with 25 jewels, 28.8k bph, and 38hr power reserve. It is nicely decorated and features a very pretty sculpted and molded and skeletonized rotor. It also features a Glucydur (beryllium and copper) balance, Anachron (cobalt, nickel, and chromium) balance spring, and Nivaflex 1 (iron, nickel, chrome, cobalt, and beryllium.) mainspring. They offer the advantages of high strength and stability for improved accuracy, and they also make it sound as if your watch was made in Middle Earth. I'll leave it to your judgment as to whether that latter point is a positive or negative, but high accuracy is always welcome, and ETA only uses these exotic alloys in their top-shelf movements. 
Bremont offers an optional bracelet, but this watch arrived on a padded black leather strap and a signed buckle. It has curved ends to match the contours of the head, and beige stitching that complements the rose gold on the dial. The only downside is that it is short, just 110/70mm, which is about 10mm shorter than most. I wore it on the second to last adjustment hole, leaving just a nub of a tail. This is not a common experience for me. I would think anyone with a larger wrist would want to swap a different strap right away, and that is a real shame given its quality and appearance. 
Examining all the elements, I was struck by how many Depression-era influences are apparent in this design. The case is straight up streamline moderne. The dial may be a military layout, but the applied gold numerals would be right at home on a vintage dress watch. Even its deceptively simple typeface and stylized propeller have a hint of Art Deco flair (notice the small lobes of the B and R, and the short bar on the E). Still, with all these retro cues, you would never mistake it for a vintage watch. It looks thoroughly contemporary but rooted in tradition, which is a quite a feat for a relatively young company to pull off. 

So the Solo-37 is a nice watch, but is it a good value? Absolutely. The Bremont gives you a COSC-certified movement, hardened steel case, and dashing good looks in a compact package. Now, how long can I convince Paul to let me keep it...

Pro: Top quality, gorgeous case.
Con: Short strap.
Sum: An absolute gem in a sensible size. I love it.








Hemel 24 HM-1 Field Watch

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Hemel Watches entered the scene earlier this year with their Hemel Military (HM) series, a line of four vintage military style models. Now, if you are a micro brand launching your debut product, it's hard to go wrong with a military watch. After all, they are instantly recognized, widely liked, and watch enthusiasts know they can expect a certain degree of style and utility. Of course, the downside is that any new military watch wades into an already crowded market of similar designs and high expectations so that new field watch had best deliver the goods. 

Hemel's founder Marvin Menke, clearly accepted that challenge. According to Hemel's promotional materials, the HM series "combine[s] the iconic heritage look of mid-century modern timepieces with the refined style of the modern gentleman." This is a fairly common refrain, but notoriously hard to pull off. In this Bum's opinion, precious few watch designers manage to translate classic designs into modern watches without destroying the very things that made the originals appealing. After wearing the HM-1 24 hour field watch Marvin sent me for review, I am pleased to report that he is one of those designers, and this is one of those watches. The HM series strikes just the right balance between classic and modern design sensibilities.

HM Series watches are mid-sized, measuring 40mm across, 48mm long, and 13mm thick from the display case back to the top of the crystal. I applaud their restraint. Vintage military watches were small by contemporary standards (you can read more about vintage US government issued field watches here) in marked contrast to many of the massive pieces worn today. I recognize the fact that fashions have changed and I have nothing against large watches per se, but simply inflating a vintage design is not necessarily an improvement. The 40mm HM is a good compromise. On my wrist, it was just about perfect, maintaining a healthy presence in a small footprint.  

The HM's case is surprisingly nuanced. It is largely free of flat surfaces and hard angles, thereby reducing unnecessary bulk. Bowed sides meet a stepped bezel with a fine coin edge surrounding the domed sapphire crystal. Curved, tapered lugs wrap your wrist. The result is lean, attractive, and considerably more refined than a traditional field watch. The straight sides and linear grooves on the cylindrical, screw-down crown diverge from the softer lines elsewhere on the case, but it is slightly recessed so its flat bottom does not protrude too far over the rounded surface beneath.

Behind the screw-down case back's sapphire window lurks a cleanly finished, if not particularly decorated, Miyota 9015 secured by a brass retainer. This 24 jewel, 28.8k bph automatic is a common sight in the micro brand world. In proper military fashion, it hacks and hand winds. Power reserve is approximately 42 hours. 

All four of the HM Series dials are classic designs. The HM-1's is a traditional field watch with Arabic numerals marking both 12 and 24-hour time, ringed by a minute index with dart shaped markers on the hour. Both the crystal and dial are domed, complementing the curves of the case. The dial is matte black and it looks deeper and blacker than most. I can't explain why this is, but I like it. All numbers, markers and the tapered hands glow with bright C3 SuperLuminova. The second hand offers a pop of bright orange. Hemel's distinctive stencil-style logo is polished and applied. The only other text is "Automatic" printed in a diminutive, broadly-spaced sans-serif font below. It is a well-executed dial that packs a lot of detail without sacrificing legibility. 

Initially, you could only order a polished case, but Hemel sent me the recently introduced bead blasted version. I'll admit that thought the polished case was an odd choice for a military watch but once I had the HM-1 in hand, I understood. If you consider the part about "refined style of the modern gentleman," then a bit of flash makes sense. In that guise, the HM is a fine everyday watch with the 100m water resistance and anti-reflective sapphire crystal you would want for your more sporting, weekend activities. If you prefer the stealthy look of a tool watch, then the blasted matte gray case is the way to go. 

The watch comes on a heavy nylon strap with Zulu hardware and grommets in the same finish as the case. It is black with two floating keepers, one in orange to match the second hand. The buckle is signed. I applaud the choice of two-piece construction. Given the relative thickness of the case, a pass through strap would raise it too high off the wrist. Also, am I the only one getting a bit burned out on NATOs? This is a nice change. My only criticism is that while the nylon looks perfectly appropriate on the matte finish case, it strikes me as too utilitarian for the polished version. I'd be inclined to swap a more tailored leather strap onto the fancier case. Of course, strap swapping is half the fun. 

I liked this watch in pictures, but I loved it on my wrist. This is why I go out of my way to perform hands-on reviews whenever possible. Viewing the watch on a computer screen did not convey the way its curves worked together, dressing up the case while also slimming it down. I questioned why a field watch would have decorative bezel detailing or a display case back until I worn it awhile and realized that on a different strap, it would look perfectly at home with suit and tie. 

The Hemel HM Series sells for $399, which is a great price for a 9015 with sapphire, and even better when you consider its versatility. If you are looking for an attractive, mid-sized, everyday watch at an affordable price, then you really need to consider a Hemel. 

Pro: Curves, curves, curves.
Con: You will want a second strap to get the most out of the watch.
Sum:Right size, right shape, right price.




Rotary Les Originales Ultra Slim

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I am not a big proponent of the one-watch policy. Oh sure, it seems like every new watch brand tries to convince us that their watch is the one suitable for all occasions, but don't believe them. Watches are like any other article of clothing or accessory; nothing is truly suitable for all occasions. Sure, you can bend the rules a bit, but you wouldn't wear Crocs with a suit, or wingtips to the beach. Similarly, if you are preparing to scuba dive, you should probably leave your grandfather's pocket watch on the boat. Finally, if you are getting all dressed up for a formal affair, you need the right dress watch, like maybe the Rotary Les Originales Ultra Slim I'm reviewing today.
When it comes to dress watches, I'm strictly old school. I want them small, thin, simple, and elegant. The Rotary hits every mark. Its polished stainless steel case is 36mm wide and a mere 4.7mm thick. Bowl shaped case sides and slightly curved lugs make it appear even slimmer, almost disappearing when viewed in profile. 
Current fashion favors 42mm or larger for most men's everyday watches, and about 40mm for dress pieces. In this climate, 36mm sounds small, even dainty, but until recently, it was was considered perfectly reasonable. Obviously, you should wear what makes you comfortable and suits your size. An NFL linebacker can wear a larger watch than I can, but dress watches should quietly complement you, not steal attention by shouting their presence. 
The Rotary's stepped dial is a warm pearl white with a fabulous starburst texture on the inner section. The hands and markers are gold batons, which present a pleasant contrast to the white and silver. I know it just my own hang up, but I find it hard to warm up to most gold watches. I've tried, really I have, but have found precious few that speak to me. I'd much prefer a steel case with gold accents on the dial to tie the watch to my other accessories.   

Like all Rotary watches, the Les Originales Ultra Slim is Swiss made. The movement is a 8 jewel, gold plated Ronda Slimtech 1006 quartz with a date complication. I know many of my readers have read just read "quartz" and lost interest, but stick with me. Quartz movements offer certain advantages, one of which is a low profile. Sure, you can find mechanical watches that are less than 5mm thick, but not many, and you had better be prepared to pay for the privilege. 
A dress watch needs a suitably dressy strap, and the Ultra Slim delivers with crocodile-embossed burgundy leather. For truly formal wear you would want black, but the burgundy is an excellent complement to the Ultra Slim's silver and gold tones and it looks great with a charcoal or navy suit. Its sculpted buckle is signed. Other versions are available, including a two-tone link bracelet to dress up the watch even further. 
On my 6.5" wrist, the Ultra Slim was understated without looking undersized - ideal for a dress watch. Needless to say, it slipped under the tightest of shirt cuffs with room to spare. There is nothing effeminate about the watch, but it could easily be worn by a woman. I suspect it would be more of an everyday piece than a formal dress watch (women's dress watches tend to be on the tiny side) but the wafer-thin 36mm case is a good match for smaller wrists, making it a truly unisex design.

The Rotary Les Originales Ultra Slim pictured here lists for £229, or about $284 USD. European shoppers will have an easier time finding Rotary Watches in stores, but US buyers may have better luck with Amazon or other online retailers. For more information see RotaryWatches.com



NTH Tropics Pre-release

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Today at 9:00 am Eastern Standard Time, Janis Trading Company launched pre-orders for the NTH Tropics. If you recall, Janis's owner and designer, Chris Vail, created NTH to reinterpret classic watch designs with a modern twist. The first line, the Subs, reinvented the iconic Submariner style dive watches - and in this Bum's humble opinion, did so brilliantly (read my review here). 
The new line was inspired by mid-century compressor-case diving watches, and Chris has kept them appropriately mid-sized. The case is 40mm wide, 48mm long, and 12mm thick. Each Tropics model shares the same dual-crown, cylindrical case with straight lugs, raised double-domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and a case-back stamped with a diving bell in high relief. The case nails the vintage look, but then updates it with a lumed internal bezel, faceted lugs, a combination brushed/polished case, and a signed and lumed crown. 
Two models are offered. The Antillies features applied baton markers on a sunray dial. The Azores has large, lumed darts with a textured dial. Both have different color options. The watches will come with a beads of rice bracelet with expansion clasp, and a perforated "tropic" rubber strap. Of course, the watches are rated for 200m water resistance. In a departure for Janis Trading, the new watches use a Swiss Tech Production STP1-11 movement. This 24 jewel automatic has a hacking second hand, 28.8k bph beat rate, and 44 hour power reserve. 
Pre-order prices start at $450 and will will go up based on the number of pieces sold. Closer to the projected delivery date, they will go up to their full price of $700-725, depending on model, so if you like what you see, I'd recommend you act fast to get the best deal. 

Photos courtesy of Janis Trading Company.


Giveaway: TACS Automatic Vintage Lens

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This month, The Time Bum is giving away the very same TACS Automatic Vintage Lens I reviewed here. It is a truly unique piece with the look and feel of an analog single lens reflex camera and a retail value of $550. All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight October 31, 2016.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law.

You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter.

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good Luck!

The Time Bum TACS Automatic Vintage Lens Giveaway

Preview: TiMe22 Robusto

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A few weeks ago, I shared TiMe22's Kickstarter campaign for their intriguing Robusto. It did not fund, but they relaunched and this time, hit their goal on the first day.  This funky titanium hexagon is now good to go, and the campaign is still on so you can still pre-order yours. 

The Robusto is 45mm wide and 10mm thick with a titanium case and bracelet. It is rated for 200m water resistance and packs your choice of an ETA 955.112 quartz (€359/$402 USD) or 2824-2 automatic (€489/$549 USD).  It is a unique piece with a distinctly 1970's vibe that I find rather appealing. Check it out on Kickstarter through 2:00PM EST, November 17, 2016.




Photos courtesy of TiMe22

WatchBuys Roadshow - Washington, DC 2016

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I love autumn in Washington, DC. As we reach the latter half of September, the oppressive summer humidity finally abates, there is a new crispness to the morning air, and the WatchBuys Road Show comes to town. That last one has become one of my favorite traditions, and if you love watches, it should be yours too. 

WatchBuys is an authorized U.S. dealer for several German bands including Sinn, Nomos Glashutte, Hanhart, Junghans, Dornbluth & Son, Jochen Benzinger, Thomas Ninchritz, Stephan Kudoke, and now, their first Swiss brand, Fortis. Owners Tim and Rob hail from North Carolina, but they have no brick and mortar store. All sales are online, so they bring their inventory around the country one a year for a little show and tell, allowing prospective buyers to really get a feel for the products.

The event is free but tightly controlled. Several sessions are scheduled over a period of two to three days at a private venue, the location of which is only released to registered attendees. Once inside, you will find tables full of fabulous watches. You can't buy a watch at these shows, but in a way, that is even better as there no pressure to buy. You can just relax, browse, and take advantage of WatchBuys encyclopedic knowledge.  

If you would like to attend a Road Show near you, or to suggest a city for them to visit, head to their page and sign up.  While you are waiting for them to come to your town, enjoy this selection of my personal favorites. 

WatchBuys is the official North American Sinn dealer, so the famed German brand was more than adequately represented, like this 103 St Matte, which marries the iconic 41mm automatic mechanical chronograph with a no-nonsense, bead blasted case and bracelet. It features a domed acrylic crystal and 200m water resistance. It sells for $2190.

The special editions also included this pair of 38.5mm models 556 Red. Both are distinguished from the standard 556 by their display case backs and red second hands. The 556 A Red in the background has a matte dial, and the 556 I Red in the foreground has a glossy lacquer dial. Your choice for $1180.

Those looking for something larger might like the 43mm 757 Black. For $3340, you get true pilot's tool watch with a Tegimented PVD case and bracelet for extra hardness and scratch resistance, antimagnetic iron core, copper sulfate humidity control, sapphire crystal, and 200m water resistance. 

Dive watch fans were not left out. The outstanding $2270 UX EZM 2 B HYDRO was back. This 44mm, 5000m (yes, 5k!) diver has a 44mm antimagnetic case of submarine steel, a Tegimented bezel, and a quartz movement, but the best part is that the watch is flooded with oil for a completely glare-free view. The hands and markers almost seem as if they are painted on the crystal. Very cool. 

For something truly unique, try the 1800 S LE Damaszener. It is constructed of Tegimented Damasus steel for magnificent grained appearence. It costs $7360 and only 100 were made. 

Just in case you thought Sinn didn't have a wild side, check out this U1 Camouflage limited edition that debuted at BaselWorld this year. Is a 44mm brute in submarine steel with a Tegimented bezel. Water resistance is 1000m and the black markers and hands are SuperLuminova. Only 500 are available worldwide. For $2230 you can have one for your next commando mission.

Fortis had some mighty tempting offerings on display. This Aquatis Marinemaster combines pilot and dive watch designs in a 42mm case with a full lume dial for $1280.


It is also available in blue with large knurled lunettes.

Released at BaselWold earlier this year, the Fortis Aviatis Stealth Chronograph sports a 42mm PVD black case, vintage lume, and an automatic movement for $2570.

Over on the Nomos table, I fell for this gorgeous $3780 Metro Datum Gangreserve, a silver beauty just 37mm wide and 7.8mm thick. The movement features the Nomos Swing System escapement with an in-house balance spring, anchor, and anchor wheel. The Metro takes its name from the Paris Metro, from which it derives its style and coloring. 


The Junghans selection included their iconic Max Bill line of Bauhaus timepieces, but also some sportier numbers like this Meister Pilot Chronograph Classic. A new release from BaselWorld, it is 43.3mm wide with an automatic movement, domed sapphire crystal, and a design derived from the 1955 J88 Bundeswehrchronograph. I particularly liked the scalloped bezel. The watch is $2465.

The Junghans Meister Telemeter Chronoscope is another vintage inspired piece. This automatic mechanical chronograph harkens back to the 1950's with its domed Plexiglass crystal and detailed, silver-white dial that uses both Telemeter and tachymetre displays. It measures 40.8mm wide and 12.6mm thick. WatchBuys lists it for $2190.

WatchBuys carries a number of true, handcrafted watches. These highly decorated pieces are always a treat, like this $5380 Thomas Ninchritz Vice Versa II in rose gold. The movement is completely inverted, placing the movement functions and the dial on the same side. It is decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage patterns, blued screws, screwed gold chatons, and a hand-engraved balance cock. 

Stephan Kudoke electroplated his the bridges on this movement to achieve the dark colors in the aptly named Black Beauty ($5970). A sharp eye will notice the letter K cut away in the upper right, and the rich detailing of the hand engraved patterns. 

Hanhart's signature red button is in full effect on this blue Racetimer GTM single-button chronograph. The automatic chronograph movement has been modified to use a single button and to push the registers to the outer edge of this 45mm instrument. It is water resistant to 100m and sells for $3260.

At $1140, the Hanhart Pioneer Preventor 9 was one of the most affordable watches at the show. The watch is 40mm wide with a matte black dial, satin finish case, and sapphire crystal. It is the only watch in the lineup that is not a chronograph. Its mechanical automatic movement has been modified by Dubois Dépraz to reconstruct the small seconds to 9 o'clock – just like the original Hanhart Calibre 41 it honors.


BOLDR Journey Wasp

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Back in May, I introduced the BOLDR Journey, a trench style chronograph with a sandwich dial and Seiko VK64 Mecha-Quartz movement. The project funded easily and you can now buy a Journey directly from boldrwatches.com. I liked it on the computer screen, so I jumped on the opportunity to try a press loaner. The Journey sells for $259 for brushed finish models, and $269 for the PVD Wasp featured here. 

In the tradition of the first military watches, the Journey has a rounded case and wire lugs, similar to a converted pocket watch, but updated with 22mm spring bars. The stainless steel case measures 43mm wide and 14.2mm thick, which is on the larger side of the spectrum, but as is common with this style, the curved sides and slender lugs make is appear about one size smaller than you might expect. I found it to be a comfortable fit on my 6.5" wrist but it would not be at all out of place on a larger person. 

There are some nice details on this case. The crown is signed and has a deep, toothy edge for grip. The case back was designed by Malaysian tattoo artist, Kevin Tan. The Wasp features a detailed image of "evolving man" and the words of Lau Tzu, "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." But the real fun is up front, where a massive, 4.5mm domed box crystal towers above the dial and stretches to the perimeter of the case. Regular Time Bum readers already know I am crazy for domes. On this watch, the mineral bubble reinforces the other curves on the case and provides crazy edge distortions. I love it, but owners may want to exercise extra care as the pronounced crystal is an easy target for the bumps, bangs, and smacks of daily wear. Mineral crystals are pretty tough, but they don't have the scratch resistance of sapphire, and you can't easily polish out scratches like you can with acrylic. 

The dial has a combination of large stencil-cut numbers and slots with a printed index on the perimeter. A date window occupies the 6 o'clock position. Registers for 60-minutes and 24-hours are at 9 and 3, respectively. A Seiko VK64 MechaQuartz runs this show. Even among watch snobs, this hybrid movement commands respect as the battery driven quartz has a mechanical chronograph module for a smooth 1/5th-second sweep and a crisp snap on reset. The minute and hour hands are long batons filled with white lume while the subdial and second hands are wedges that taper to needle-like points. 

There are three BOLDR models. The white/black panda dial Sopwith and black/tan Warhawk both have brushed cases. The Wasp reviewed here has a PVD black case, black/white dial, and shocking yellow needles. The first two have a decidedly military look, whereas the Wasp is more of a sports racer.  

Regardless of color, the dials are well balanced and highly legible. The markers' size makes good use of the expansive dial without unnecessarily crowding the registers. Contrast is excellent, especially on the Wasp. The sandwich construction provides pleasing depth. Even the dial text (an aspect I often nit-pick on many watches) is pleasingly rendered with the bold BOLDR logo above and "Chronograph" in a sparse, widely-spaced typeface below. Everything about it works – until it gets dark. I have come to expect all sandwich dials to have a luminous layer below. The Journey does not. Only the hands glow and they are not particularly bright. 

Water resistance is 50m, which is perfectly appropriate for a watch of this style. After all, this is not a diving watch or a tool watch. To my eye, it is more of a driving watch, and that is an activity best performed on dry land. Still, it is good to know that the Journey will shrug off the occasional immersion without complaint.

The Journey arrives on a matte black leather strap with matching stitching and buckle. It is a quality piece and perfectly comfortable. Its thickness is a good complement to the case, but if you want to downplay the size of the watch, I have found that single-piece nylon pass-throughs are an excellent option with wire lugs. 

I really like the look of the BOLDR Journey Wasp. The layered dial, strong colors, and large markers make a potent statement under that crazy dome, and the case offers a nice balance between presence and wearability. It is an appealing sports watch that is hampered only by its weak performance in the dark. 

Pro: Wild dome and aggressive dial.
Con: Begging for a SuperLuminova layer.
Sum: Stylish fun. 





Aevig Balaur

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The Aevig Balaur has experienced a long gestation with more than one bizarre plot twist along the way. I won't rehash the whole story today (you can read more here). Suffice to say it involved a friendly watch forum completion, an unsatisfactory prototype, allegations of a knock-off levied against a watchmaking giant, and a tense showdown between Aevig's Chip Yuen and a flock of SeaGulls at the 2016 Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair. Certainly not the usual route from concept to production. Was all this drama worth it? Chip lent me a pair of prototypes so I could find out for myself. 

The Balaur is a dual-crown, 300m diver with an internal GMT/timing bezel, powered by a Swiss ETA 2824-2, a hacking and hand winding 25 jewel automatic with a 28.8k bph beat rate. The Balaur's stainless steel case measures 42mm wide, 49mm long, and 13.5mm thick with a double domed sapphire crystal. A signed, screw-down crown at 4 o'clock sets the movement, and a triple-gasket push-pull crown at 2 o'clock operates the bezel. I found the crowns to be a little stiff in their operation, but this will be corrected before production. Chip also tells me the gap between crown and case will be tighter.

The case is round with lugs that taper sharply before terminating in a 90-degree angle. They flow in a steep arc from the central barrel, wrapping the wearer's wrist and minimizing the overall footprint. A fixed, angular bezel surrounds the dial. All surfaces are brushed except for a polished chamfer that runs the length of the case, diminishing at the lugs into just a glinting whisper at the tips. These elements coordinate to make the 42mm appear sleeker and more tailored than most diver's watches.

"Balaur" is a dragon from European folklore. Its snakelike likeness appears on the case back in a particularly detailed and high relief stamping. Up front, the center links of the bracelet are raised, beveled, and polished on three sides, evoking an alligator's bony hornback ridge. It is a clever detail that gives the bracelet a unique look that ties into the overall theme without being obviously reptilian. I loved the look on the prototypes, and Chip tells me the finished product will be even better as the links will be three separate pieces and the center will be more than 1mm thicker allowing for a more pronounced edge. It will still have solid links, screwed link pins, and 22-20mm taper, but will feature a ratcheting clasp instead of the prototype's push-button flip-lock. With all of these changes, I can't say that I have evaluated the bracelet, but I do like the overall design concept and have no reason to believe the changes will do anything but improve what is already a quality unit. 

Like the case and bracelet, the Balaur's dial presents an attractive face that is surprisingly nuanced. Nothing on the dial shouts at you. Rather, it all works seamlessly to draw you in and make you love it, even if you don't immediately understand why. The internal bezel has hours on the upper surface and minutes on the angled return, marked with a series of dots. All are printed in white except for contrasting orange numbers on the fives. There are only two choices of dial color, blue and black, both with applied polished rectangular markers. Dial text consists of the brand name and logo up top, model name in lowercase and "Automatic" in red below it. Aevig watches never have standard handsets. The Balaur has polished, semi-skeletonized hands that are faceted and filled with lume. The paddle tip on the second hand adds a spot of mustard yellow to the palate. 

Chip has never been afraid to explore the Pantone chart, so the blue is not the typical Navy or Royal, but a muted tone with hints of gray and green that are complemented by its BWG9 lume. The black dial is black of course, lumed with creamy C3. Both performed well in low light, but the lighter C3 provided better contrast than the blue-green BGW9.

I could not let the watches go with trying a strap swap. Drilled lugs make it easy, and I was pleased to discover the spring bar perches are positioned just right so that there is ample room for a NATO but not so much space that a two-piece strap would leave an unsightly gap. A Bradystraps sailcloth suited its tailored look, while a distressed Gunny leather NATO played up its vintage appeal. 

There are many workmanlike watchmakers in the microbrand world these days, creating watches that fit well within the confines of convention. Their products are often quite attractive, even if they are derivative. Then there are the watch artists, expanding our horizons with innovative designs or spinning traditional designs in exciting new ways. Chip is one of the artists, and the Balaur is yet more proof. The more you examine it, the more you appreciate his talent. 

The Balaur will sell for €695 (@ $756 USD) at full price including VAT (21%), but you can pre-order now for €550 (@ $598 USD) until December 2016. 







DC Metro Microbrand Meetup - Update

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It's hard to believe, but the DC Metro Microbrand Meetup is only 10 days away! If you plan to attend but haven't registered, head over to microbrandmeetup.com and get on it. Here is everything you need to know.

Microbrand Participation

The response has been tremendous. When Bill and I started planning, we hoped to get about 10 microbrands involved. We got 30! See the full list below. The owners of Bernhardt, BluShark, Hager, Heitis, Hemel, Huguenin, Janis Trading, Kratos, McDowell Time, and Schmutz will attend in person and may be game for a little Q&A at the end. The others are sending watches with their US representatives or in the care of our deputies. 

Private Collections

The down side of this success is that we have maxed out our space with micros and will not be able to display private collections in our reserved room. Yeah, it's a drag, but the micros are the stars here, and our registrants have made that pretty clear as only 7 people asked for space to display their personal watches. Next year, we may do things differently, but this time it will have to be micros only. 

Events

Doors open at 11:00. Upon arrival at Virtue, you will be directed to the Porch Dining Room on the second floor. Sign in to enter the prize drawings and receive your drink tickets. The first 100 to arrive will receive a free NATO strap from Clockwork Synergy! Then, enjoy some appetizers, check out the watches, and chat with some of the fellows responsible for them. Some will be for sale on the spot and we will have laptops and WiFi ready to go if you want to place an order.

We are seeing a strong surge in registration and expect to have over 100 in attendance. This is outstanding, but also a little cozy. I'm sure it will not be a problem, we just ask that you be mindful of this. If it gets tight, please allow others their time in the display room. There is a bar and a lounge with couches just outside our space, you can grab a table for lunch, and there is plenty to do in Old Town Alexandria if you want to check out the local shops or galleries and rejoin us later.

We will hold our prize drawings around 2:30 and move right from that into the Microbrand Q&A.  By 3:30, we will be packed up and moving on, but I know several folks plan to hang out afterward.

Prizes

We have got a ton of goodies for this event, starting with the Clockwork Synergy straps. Then we get to the raffles: watches from Aevig, ArmourLite, Borealis, Prometheus, and Stuckx; straps from Crown & Buckle and Isofrane; Doxa history books; Aevig swag; and we've got a few more items in the works too.

Metro and Parking

If you are taking public transportation, you will want the Blue or Yellow Metro line to the King Street-Old Town station. From there, it is a 25 minute walk down to Union Street, or you can hop on the Free King Street Trolley which runs about every 10 minutes from the Metro station.

Finally, for those of you driving in, you should know that there are three parking garages near Virtue. The two next door and across the street on S. Union Street are the most convenient but they are small and the spaces are tight. If this is a concern, I'd recommend the lot down the block on N. Union Street (past King Street, across from the Torpedo Factory). There is street parking as well, but it is not always plentiful.

And now the part you really wanted to see...

Participating Microbrands

Janis Trading Co. (NTH and Lew & Huey)

That's all for now folks. See you on Saturday the 5th!

Deaumar Ensign and Chronova

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I reviewed the Deaumar Ensign prototype just before its launch in February. I liked its looks and declared it to be an impressive value, but despite my doubtless invaluable endorsement, it failed to fund on Kickstarter. Fortunately, Deaumar continued pre-sales on its own and secured enough to see it through to production. Now, Ensigns are shipping out to their owners and a new model, the Chronova, is on its way. In anticipation of the launch, Deaumar sent me a new blue Ensign and a prototype Chronova for review.

Ensign

Like the prototype, the final version is a 200m dress diver with a Seiko 4R36 automatic in a 42mm stainless steel case. Features include a screw down crown, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, and a solid link bracelet with a signed clasp. Short, integrated lugs keep the length to a compact 46mm, which makes for a tidy fit on smaller wrists without sacrificing presence. I was taken with the shimmering blue dial and plodded markers on the prototype and the final is no different. The final watch stays true to the prototype but has been upgraded with solid end links, a solid two-piece clasp, and it trades the printed aluminum bezel insert for glossy, engraved ceramic.

Deaumar had always planned for solid links, but the ceramic was a later addition. It vastly improves the watch. There is nothing inherently bad about aluminum, but I have grown to love the slick look and high scratch resistance of ceramic. My only real criticism of the prototype was the fat font printed in silver on the bezel. The new insert does away with this. The engraved markers are better proportioned than the old ones, and the white color is a better match to the markers on the dial.

Of course, the price has changed as well. You could pre-order the Ensign for £131 GBP, or about $189 USD at the time. The watch is now £249 GBP, which thanks to a favorable exchange rate, is just over $403 USD. Perhaps not the bargain it was before, but still a fair price for a satisfying watch.

Chronova

Now, let's move on to the new one. Like its stablemate, it uses a Seiko movement, but this time it is the VK63 MechaQuartz, a popular hybrid movement that marries a quartz timekeeper to a mechanical chronograph module. This combination yields a reliable, inexpensive movement with a smooth, 1/5 second sweep and crisp snap back on reset.

The stainless steel case measures 42mm wide and 51mm long. Its upper surface is brushed, the sides and bezel are polished, and a polished chamfer cuts along the the outer edge of the curved lugs. I like a combination of brushed and polished finishes, and this is no exception, but I would have preferred brushed sides to highlight like right chamfer. Long lugs make it wear slightly larger than the Ensign, but one would hardly call it oversized. I found it perfectly comfortable on my 6.5" wrist, and had no difficulty wearing it with a buttoned cuff. The crown is signed, and an engraving of a LeMans racer decorates the case back.

Chronographs are sports watches, so while I do not expect the same degree of toughness found in dive or tool watches, I do appreciate it when they can take some lumps. The Chronova meets the standard with a sapphire crystal and 100m water resistance. The Chronova's H-link bracelet is nearly identical to the Ensign's. Of course, the end links are a different shape, but they share the same finish combination, solid links, and split link pins. It is 22mm wide, tapering to a 20mm signed clasp. Like the Ensign prototype, the preproduction Chronova has folded end links that will be upgraded in production.

Deaumar offers the Chronova in several colors, including a stealthy PVD black, but I requested a gold dial with a red and blue tachymeter index, a color scheme commonly associated with the beloved Seiko 6139-6002 worn by Colonel William Pogue on an 84-day NASA space mission. Not coincidentally, the gold Chronova is called "Pogo." An applied and polished logo and baton markers with beveled ends lend welcome dimension to the face. Deaumar's 1920's style typeface carries this treatment particularly well. Blue index rings surround the three sub dials. Baton hands are polished, and lume filled, while the second hand and sub dial needles are bright red. A framed, black-on-white date window tucks in at 4:30, a placement that does not interfere with an of the other elements. Overall, it is a successful design, effectively marrying the sporty red and blue elements with the fancier metallic gold and bright work.

Pre-orders open on November 3, at 6:00 pm GMT with delivery expected in March. 2017. The pre-order price is £249.99 ($. USD) not including 20% VAT for EU buyers.







Giveaway: X-Frame Vulcan Automatic Watch

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This month, The Time Bum is giving away the very same X-Frame Vulcan I reviewed here. It is a truly unique piece with the look and feel of an analog single lens reflex camera and a retail value of $559. All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight November 30, 2016.
The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law.

You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter.

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good Luck!

The Time Bum X-Frame Vulcan Giveaway

X-Frame Vulcan Automatic

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Last year, I wrote about the Umbrella Watch Company's X-Frame Vulcan in one of my crowdfunding compilations. I had seen its Kickstarter campaign and was not impressed. I blasted its weird bumper, small hands, honeycomb dial, and open-heart feature. I said the design went "right off the rails," deriding it as "bizarre,""fussy and overdone," and declaring the dial "a disaster." So imagine my surprise when the company's founder wrote to tell me he respected my opinion. He said I had made some valid points and had taken them into account when designing his next model. He enclosed a picture of the updated version and asked if I would conduct a hands-on review.
Taken aback, I re-read my initial impressions and while I stood by my comments, I had to admit they were pretty brutal. I figured if he was willing to accept my criticism in the spirit in which it was offered, and even tweak his design as a result, the least I could do is take a second look and maybe not be quite so snarky this time. So with a fresh perspective, I collected a new black-on-black Vulcan from the mailman and set to work.

The second generation X-Frame Vulcan retains the original case, a large elongated hexagon with dramatic facets, integrated lugs, and a ten-sided, multilayered bezel bolted into place around a flat sapphire crystal. I'd say this angular case is the Vulcan's best and most defining feature, setting it apart from the crowd with a funky, 1970's sci-fi vibe. The exposed fasteners on the bezel would still not be my first choice, but they work much better now that they are not fighting the dial for attention.

The left side extension that I so disliked on the first Vulcan is still is still present. I see how it was intended to balance the equally blocky crown guards, but I still feel the case would be better off without it. X-Frame agreed and have excised the bumper from the forthcoming chronograph model. I would suggest they examine the crown guards next. I like their shape, but they guard the crown just a bit too well, making it difficult to pop free after it is unscrewed. Shaving them down a little would  improve both appearance and ease of operation. Speaking the crown, this one is mighty cool. Four pairs of fins create a chiseled, conical shape unlike any other. It is sealed to 100m water resistance. 
My biggest issue with the case is not its appearance, but its size. It is 45mm wide (50mm if you include the guards and bumper), 14.5mm thick, and 55mm long. This is simply too much for my 6.5" wrist. It hung over either side of my arm, loosely flopping out of place even with the strap cinched to its last adjustment. It would be fine on a 7" wrist or larger, but I am just not big enough to carry it off. A 40-42mm case would suit me better, and given the overall proportions, the watch would not lose an ounce of its impact as a result, but I do realize that many buyers would be turned off if they saw smaller dimensions listed in the specs. 
One of the most significant differences between the first and second models is the switch from the Chinese PTS dual time to the Seiko NH35 automatic. Time Bum readers are no doubt familiar with this hardy, 24-jewel workhorse. It hacks, hand winds, has a power reserve of over 40 hours, and hums at 21.6k bph. You can see it through the sapphire case back, but it is not particularly decorated, and the review sample appeared to have some sort of smear on the rotor. 
Unlike the PTS, the NH35 is three-hander with a date. Running with this change, the designers transformed the Vulcan's face, stripping away all of the unnecessary gingerbread that clashed with the ultra-modern case and interfered with readability. They purged the second dial, the incongruous open heart feature, and the honeycomb surface. In place of all that clutter, the new Vulcan has a clean, open dial. With the decks cleared, I could finally appreciate novel details like the hexagonal date window and matching applied hour markers on the rehaut. 

The blunt skeleton hands remain but no longer seem lost or undersized, and the red, paddle-tipped second hand provides a sporty accent. When I saw the photos, I worried that they had gone too far, stripping away so much that the face would be bland and featureless, but my fears were unfounded. The new dial is brushed with a pronounced vertical grain that enlivens the expansive dial without overpowering it, complementing the Vulcan's retro-modern character. Night illumination is good on the hands, but the markers are weak. 
X-Frame offers the watch in various combinations of silver, black, and rose gold with black, white, gold, or brown dials. I think the black and silver monochrome versions work best as they highlight the Vulcan's industrial appeal. The strap is made of black alligator embossed leather tapering to a signed buckle. Being an incorrigible strap swapper, I thought I might try something offbeat with this unique case like a carbon fiber weave or segmented rubber, but it was not to be. The watch uses a proprietary strap secured with screws. You can order replacements from X-Frame, but aftermarket is out of the question.

In the end, I am glad that I took a second look at the Vulcan as the new watch is very much improved. Still, it is not the watch for me. The design is not yet fully resolved, the case is far too large, and it would benefit from some streamlining. In addition to the Chronograph, I know X-Frame has some other ideas in the works, and I am curious to see what they do next.

The X-Frame Vulcan is available for $559 at x-framewatch.com. If you are feeling lucky, click here and enter to win the review sample.





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