Christopher Ward Silent Auction

November 7, 2016, 4:22 am

Christopher Ward has announced a silent auction on November 7, 2016, for the chance to bid on the ‘000’ prototype sample of the C8 P7350 Chronometer Limited Edition. The auction will honor Remembrance Day with all proceeds from the auction being donated to two of the UK’s largest military charities The Royal British Legion and SSAFA.

The C8 P7350 Chronometer Limited Edition was created in partnership with TMB Art Metal who worked closely with Christopher Ward to source original Duralumin from the only remaining airworthy Spitfire to have flown in the battle of Britain – P7350. This historic metal was then embedded into each watch within the 75 piece limited run. The ‘000’ prototype sample being auctioned this November, is the only watch of its kind.

The design of the 44mm watch is based on the Smiths Mk IIa clock that was used in the Supermarine Spitfire’s cockpit, including a careful matching of the original index fonts and colors and the black, anti-reflective case.

The reverse of the watch reveals a laser-cut piece of metal from P7350’s cockpit protected by highly scratch-resistant, museum grade sapphire crystal. A silhouette of the plane's plan has been precision cut into the metal showing the registration and elliptical wing formation to great effect.

Powering the C8 P7350 Chronometer is a small-second, hand-wound version of Christopher Ward’s in-house movement, Calibre SH21. As well as providing 120 hours of power via SH21’s twin barrels, each movement is a COSC certified chronometer.

The auction will go live on November 7th and will run for 11 hours (11am until 10pm), with people able to place their bid for the watch – a piece of genuine aviation history - and show their support for veterans and serving members of the military via the Christopher Ward website. The minimum bid will be set at £3,450. All bids must be submitted in GBP

Co-founder Mike France said: ‘We’ve kept the ‘000’ prototype of the C8 P7350 Chronometer LE aside since the original launch in 2015 as we always knew we wanted to do something meaningful with it. We carefully considered how we could utilize this special piece and ultimately decided that because of the links that the collection has to the Battle of Britain it would only be right to utilize this to commemorate Remembrance Day. Through our auction we hope to mark Remembrance Day and to raise thousands of pounds for our chosen charities - The Royal British Legion and SSAFA who offer vital support to the veteran and Armed Forces community.”

Go to https://www.christopherward.co.uk/p7350-silent-auction to view the auction and place your bid.

FEATURES FOR ‘000’ C8 P7350

· Swiss made

· British designed

· 27 jewel in-house hand-wound mechanical chronometer

· Historic metal from Supermarine Spitfire P7350 embedded into backplate

· In-house hand-wound Calibre SH21 movement

· COSC-certified chronometer

· Twin barrel construction in series connection

· 120 hr power reserve

· Small seconds sub-dial

· Hand finished marine grade stainless steel case with PVD black coating

· Diamond shaped aviator crown

· Museum-grade anti-reflective sapphire crystal

· Smiths IIa cockpit clock inspired dial and hands

· Two color SuperLumiNovaTM indexes with blue and green emissions

· Premium quality leather strap with CW motif buckle

· Deluxe box and owner’s handbook and certificate of authentication

TECHNICAL

· Diameter: 44mm

· Height: 12.3mm

· Calibre: Hand Wound SH21 COSC

· Vibrations: 28,000 per hour

· Case: 316L stainless steel (PVD)

· Water Resistance: 5 BAR/50m

Photos courtesy of Christopher Ward

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November Pre-Orders

November 10, 2016, 10:49 pm

≫ Next: TC-9 Bronze 1970's Diver and Brass Pilot

≪ Previous: Christopher Ward Silent Auction

Gather 'round folks. In addition to the offerings from Aevig, NTH, TiMe22, and Ventus that I've featured recently, I've found six more watches that are currently accepting pre-orders and that are worth grabbing early. Enjoy.

Manchester Watch Works 62MAS

MWW has long been a Bum favorite, delivering quality watches at outstanding prices. The latest is the 62MAS, an homage to Seiko's first professional diver's watch, released in 1965. Its brushed and polished case measures 40mm wide by 47mm long with a double-domed AR sapphire crystal, screw down crown, 120-click unidirectional timing bezel, and C3 SuperLuminova. the movement is by Seiko, of course; a hacking and hand winding NH15 automatic. You have your choice of two sunburst gray dials (62MAS or MWW logo). A period correct tropic rubber strap completes the look. Pre-orders are $350 at Manchester Watch Works.

meshable 003

The designers at meshable are back with their first automatic, the 003. With a 38mm brushed or PVD black case, the 003 is an attractive choice for both men and women. In a departure from most modern minimalist watches, they have added subtle hints of color to the otherwise black-on-white dial, with a muted blue at the top and dusty mauve below to represent the position of the sun. It is powered by the smooth and trusty Miyota 9015. The 003 is available on Kickstarter now for as low as $260.

Kratos Cerebrum

I would never have considered the human brain as a design inspiration for a watch until I saw a Kratos Cerebrum at the recent DC Metro Microbrand Meetup. Actually, the brain theme is only apparent in the broad wave pattern on the dial and case back. The real story of the Cerebrum comes from a tragic brain injury suffered by the founder's brother and the outpouring of support he found in the Instagram #watchfam community. The watch features a hexagonal bronze case with a Miyota 9015 automatic, 4:00 crown, domed sapphire crystal, C3 SuperLuminova, 300m water resistance on a rubber strap. You can order it on Kickstarter now in blown, white, black, or green. Rewards start at $379.

Heitis

Heitis is another Microbrand Meetup alumnus offering a selection of quartz watches. The brand's first run consists of four models with 44mm cases with 20mm lugs, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystals, and 50m water resistance. The Classic is a sparse, modern 3-hander with small seconds and a Ronda 6004 for $109. The Aviator is a Nav-B with a Ronda 705 for $129. The Chronograph is ... well, a chronograph of course. It runs a Miyota OS20 and starts at $139. All rewards Include two quick release leather straps. Heitis watches are available on Kickstarter now.

Mercer Voyager II

The Mercer Watch Company has revised its original Voyager dive watch for more a mid-century military look. The 42mm Voyager II is a 200m diver running a Seiko NH35 automatic. This time around, it sports a sandwich dial with aged BGW9 SuperLuminova and a pair of truly wicked atlas hands. A double domed, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, and lumed ceramic bezel cap it off. Buyers may choose from Ocean Blue or Ebony Black, both on 22mm silicone straps. You can order a Voyager II directly from Mercer for $329.

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TC-9 Bronze 1970's Diver and Brass Pilot

November 17, 2016, 1:15 pm

≫ Next: Zelos Cosmos Steel

≪ Previous: November Pre-Orders

TC-9 Watches began as a full-service watchmaker's shop in Basel and has only recently branched out into volume production. Their website is remarkably spare, even for a microbrand. There is no inspiring backstory, no company philosophy, no "disrupting the luxury market", just the essential information. It's kind of refreshing. They do not pretend to be producing Swiss Made watches (like much of the industry, their watches are made in China) but they do all final quality control and preparation in the Basel shop. Browsing their inventory, you will discover a trio of plainly named watches: the bronze 1970's Diver, the brass 1950's Diver, and the brass/titanium Pilot. Does this bare-bones upstart make stripped-down watches, or did they put their efforts where it counts? They sent me a 1970's Diver and a Pilot to find out.

1970's Diver

The 1970's Diver is almost exactly what its name describes. Almost. You see, the watch borrows heavily from the iconic Seiko 6150-8810, appropriating its flattened cushion shape with asymmetrical flared guards encompassing a 4 o'clock crown. The dial echoes the 6150's blocky markers, baton hands, and paddle tipped second hand. It even runs a Seiko mechanical movement, the hacking and hand winding NH35a automatic. You might call it an homage watch but for the fact that the 6150 wasn't made of bronze.

That throwback case has been recreated by a few micros in recent years, but always in stainless steel. To my knowledge, TC-9 is the first to offer this style case in bronze and it is a particularly attractive red alloy at that. This is a substantial watch, measuring over 44mm wide, 48mm long, and 13mm thick. The rich red-gold color of the brushed surface complements its unusual shape and should take on an even more rugged character as it develops its dark patina. Large as it is, the arc in its length, tapering at the perimeter, and reasonable length makes it wear smaller than you might imagine. I found it quite comfortable on my 6.5" wrist and I even managed to wear it with a buttoned cuff without much fuss.

Sapphire crystals grace both the front and back. The latter is an unusual choice for a dive watch, particularly one fitted a relatively unassuming movement like the Seiko. Personally, I'd rather they'd spared the expense and gone with a solid back instead. The signed, screw-down crown operates smoothly and is gasketed for 300m water resistance. Unlike the crowns of many recent bronze or brass alloyed watches, it is stainless steel. Because normal oxidation can fuse these alloys, it has been common practice to use stainless steel for the moving parts. For example, my old brass Magrette Regattare has the same arrangement. On the other hand, microbrand rivals like Zelos and Makara have engineered ways to avoid bronze-to-bronze contact and offered matching crowns on their bronze or brass cases for quite some time now. As a result, the steel crown on the 1970's Diver looks a little dated. This seems like an odd criticism to levy on a retro-inspired watch, but it is much easier to pull off an element that is decades old than it is for something only recently overtaken.

As noted above, the dial is remarkably similar to the iconic Seiko, and this is not a bad thing. It is a clear, handsome layout, the date window at 4 o'clock blends seamlessly with the hour markers, and the SuperLuminova burns bright. Like the Seiko, the polished markers are framed, not raised. Buyers may choose blue, black, or green. The unidirectional bezel moves crisply through its 120 clicks and without any back play. TC-9 offers three different styles for the aluminum insert: decompression, minute counter, and GMT. All three are black.

The review sample came with two 22mm straps, an olive nylon Zulu with brass hardware, and a DiModell perforated leather rally strap with a polished dual-tang buckle. I felt the Zulu better suited the Diver, even though the yellow brass did not match the case. The DiModell is an excellent quality strap, but a touch out of place on this big tool watch, and the buckle really does not coordinate with any aspect of the watch. I'd be very happy to have it, but I'd most likely use it on a different watch. TC-9 recognized these issues and have now switched things up. The new package drops both in favor of a DiModell rubber and a handmade oxblood leather. I have not had either in hand, but they would appear to be better suited to the color and character of the watch. My only wish is that TC-9 would make a matching bronze buckle as these are not exactly plentiful in the aftermarket.

Brass Pilot

TC-9's pilot watch hews closely to flieger orthodoxy. It is a traditional Type-A dial with a small seconds counter at 9 o'clock and polished, dagger shaped hands. White lume lights up the hands and markers while a red logo provides some subtle contrast. Its overall proportions are equally conventional, measuring 43.5 across, 48.5mm long, 14mm thick, and 20mm between the lugs. The surface is brushed except for the slender, polished edge of the bezel. A double domed, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal completes the look. The real departure for this watch is in the choice of case materials: marine grade brass up front, and blasted titanium for the onion crown and case back.

The yellow and gray combination is offbeat, but not unattractive. I think it could be a good choice for those who want to try a "living" oxidizing metal like brass, but who have trouble with skin irritation or discoloration. On this watch, the parts most likely to make direct contact with you are made from naturally hypoallergenic titanium. (If it's safe enough for grandma's hip replacement, it's safe enough for your wrist.) A sapphire exhibition case back shows off a hand wound SeaGull ST3600 movement. It is neatly decorated, if not overly ornate, and each has been given a thorough lubrication, regulation, and tune-up in Basel.

Typical of pilot watches, the broad dial and narrow strap make it wear a bit large, but the overall footprint was squarely within my wrist bones so I did not find it overwhelming. I was even able to tuck it under my shirt cuff without any fuss. It is perfectly suitable for weekend wear and 50m water resistance should provide ample protection for most casual uses.

Like the Diver, the Pilot's Achilles heel is its strap. The black leather is stiff and overly processed although it does have a nice 18mm signed titanium buckle. My preference would have been for brass, but this watch is all about mixed metals and the matte gray does tie into the crown and case back. If you prefer the buckle to match the case, brass hardware is not too difficult to find. TC-9 has acknowledged the straps shortcomings, and will now provide a nylon NATO with each Pilot.

Conclusion

Both of these watches would make a fine addition to your collection. The review samples could do with some new straps, but with luck, that problem will be remedied by the time you read this. Even so, the current straps are hardly a deal breaker. The 1970's Diver sells for £300 (@ $373 USD) and the Pilot for £200 (@ $248 USD). The prices are reasonable enough on their own but the real bargain comes when you order both watches as a set for £350 (@ $435 USD). It is hard to beat $217 USD each, even if you choose to swap straps later.

Check out the TC-9 collection at tc-9watches.mysimplestore.com.

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Zelos Cosmos Steel

November 23, 2016, 6:25 am

≫ Next: Black Friday and Holiday Watch Deals

≪ Previous: TC-9 Bronze 1970's Diver and Brass Pilot

I own many watches – too many by any rational measure. As I became an enthusiast, I quickly abandoned the idea that I just needed a single watch to tell time. At first, I justified them by purpose, then by quality, then by movement, but as my collection climbed into the double-digits, I had to accept that it was really about something else. Watches are about expression. They are a form of jewelry, largely divorced from logical purpose but each a unique object of desire. It was a liberating realization that let me do two things: accumulate watches with no regard for actual need and appreciate watches that push the boundaries of what I might normally wear. The Zelos Cosmos is one of those watches.

At first glance, the Cosmos looks like a variant of the Chroma dress watch, but although both watches share a similar cylindrical shape and channeled, concave sides, the Cosmos is significantly larger, measuring 45mm across. The surface is brushed except for a black ring at the very top. A signed crown at 4 o'clock mirrors the grooved case. While it looks good, the grooves ringing its edge offer no grip. I had no problem setting the watch, but winding was a bit tricky. The watch carries a 50m water resistance rating, which should be more than suitable for daily wear.

Integrated lugs keep the footprint small, but they also accentuate its height. The Cosmos is only 13.5mm thick, so even though you might wear it under a short cuff, it appears to tower over your wrist. The black crocodile grain leather strap is 22mm wide, notched to fit its 20mm perch. White stitching gives it an appropriately sporty look, and in true Zelos fashion, the signed stainless steel buckle is a unique design with a frame that is sinuously curved and cut away.

There is no bezel on this watch. Instead, a thick slab of sapphire crystal that extends right to the edge. The crystal is double domed, anti-reflective, and beveled at the edge. It's an impressive element, and that is just the beginning. Beneath it is a screwed down sapphire ring with applied polished hour markers. An inner sapphire ring carries a laser etched minute track. The bottommost layer is brushed metal.

The dial alone would make the Cosmos an impressive watch, but the hands put it over the top. They are delicate, laser cut discs of paper-thin metal. The minute disc has long, skeletonized arms like ship's wheel. The hour disc shows only a triangular head. The second disc is hollowed into thirds and bears the Zelos logo at its center. I loved the way the hour markers appeared to float on the glass, and the minute track's ghostly bars and numerals peeking through the arms of the hour disc.

Many disc watches have Miyota movements, and indeed the Cosmos was originally designed for a 9015, but the finished product runs a Swiss ETA 2824. This high beat (28.8k bph), hand winding automatic is relatively uncommon among affordable watches. The display case back allows only a peek at the gold plated unit through the spokes of a disc engraved with the watch's production number.

Cool as it may look, you might wonder whether it is a practical time teller. This is a risk designers take when they decide to get creative with dial layouts and discs. Oftentimes, ambitious concepts make for unreadable watches, and despite what I said earlier about watches being more than just portable clocks, I still want them to retain that core function. Any watch that doesn't is a mechanical bracelet. Maybe that would be great, but it wouldn't be a watch. I am pleased to report that the Cosmos suffers no such handicap. The hour and minute hands are clearly delineated in black, standing in sufficient contrast to the silvery surfaces below them. Granted, they are small and the tiny hour hand can get lost behind the spokes of the minute disc, but it is something to which you soon grow accustomed. The second wheel is the least practical of the group since it has no hand at all, but it is still possible to track by focusing on one of three notches cut from its perimeter. You won't get pinpoint accuracy, but the Cosmos is hardly a stopwatch.

I had the opportunity to see a black and rose gold version with red hands as well as the steel review sample, and neither proved challenging to read. There is also a black dial version with blue markers. Bear in mind that there is no luminous material on any of them, so they are nearly impossible to read in low light.

Microbrands are great when they make the watches we've always wanted at prices we can afford, but they are at their best when they take risks that larger, more established watchmakers will not, and produce watches we didn't know we wanted. And that, my friends, is the Cosmos. I was intrigued when I saw the first renderings, I appreciated the look when I saw prototype photographs, but I fell in love with it when I had it in on my wrist. The layered glass dial, spidery discs, and sculpted case are beautiful. The Cosmos is a fantastic concept piece with a quality movement, but best of all, it is affordable: $849 at full price, now on sale for $649 – nearly half that of a Miyota 8210 powered SevenFriday. For a watch like this, that is an absolute bargain.

For more information or to purchase your own, see ZelosWatches.com.

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Black Friday and Holiday Watch Deals

November 23, 2016, 9:30 pm

≫ Next: Moto Koure MK I MechaQuartz Chronograph

≪ Previous: Zelos Cosmos Steel

Alright folks, today is the big turkey day. Eat hearty, because tomorrow is Black Friday and you will need your all strength for some marathon shopping. Of course if you are like me, you will stay the heck home and binge out on some sweet watchy goodness. Now get online and save some green with these amazing deals and discounts.

Air Blue: 40% off all watches

Armida: 15% all watches through 12/24

BAU: 30% through 11/28

BluShark: 20% off, a bonus strap, and a free strap tool through 11/28 with code BF2016

BOLDR: 20% off and free NATO strap with code BOLDRBLACKFRIDAY

Borealis: 15% off 11/17-11/28 with code BlackFriday15%

Cheapest NATO Straps: 30% off through 11/28

Christopher Ward: 15% off for 5 days only with code FIVE15

CJR Watches: 10% off and free shipping 11/25-11/28 with code 2016blackfriday

Clockwork Synergy: 25% off with code Turkey25

Crepas: Free shipping and gift through 11/25

Crown & Buckle: Annual cybersale 11/25-11/28, 15% off accessories, 25% off leather, 30% off nylon, and free shipping and gifts for orders over $50 (excludes Black Label and American Made)

Dagaz: 30% double domed sapphire crystals for Seiko SKX through 11/27

DaLuca Straps: 25% off through 11/28 with code gobble.

Deep Blue: 40% with code CYBER

Gavox: 20% off the Gavox Avidiver and Aurora through 11/30 with code Gavoxsupport-20

G.Gerlach: 15% off and free shipping 11/25-11/28

Gnomon Watches: Discounts on limited quantities of select watches through 11/27

Gunny Straps: 20% all orders through 11/25. Note, this is the only sale he runs all year.

Hemel: 15% plus free delivery, leather key fob and watch case through 11/28 with code BlackFriday

Island Watch: Sale prices on selected items starting 1:00 PM 11/24 through 11/28

Janis Trading Co.: 25% Lew & Huey watches through 11/28 with code NOV2016

Lum-Tec: Sale prices plus 25% off through 11/27 with code BLACKFRIDAY.

McDowell Time: 25% with code TIMEBUM25

Manchester Watch Works: Free shipping 11/21-12/24

Maranez: 20% off from 11/18-11/24

Miro Watches: 30% with code BLACKWEEKEND.

NATO Strap Co.: 40% off through 11/29 with code CYBER16

Overland Exchange: 25% off through 12/31 with code OX25

SAS: 50% off black watches 11/25 only

Panatime: 35% through 11/29 with code CYBER16

Rebel Time: 30% off through 11/28 with code Backer30

Regia Timepieces: 15% off and free shipping through 11/25

StrapCode: 20% off selected items, 50% if you buy two, through 11/30

Strapped for Time: 20% all orders over $39.95 through 11/26 with code blackfriday

Tactico: Free shipping and gift through 11/25

Torgoen: 30% sitewide through 11/26

Vario: 20% off watch straps and accessories 11/25-11/28 with code Black&White

Watch Bandit: 40% off bracelets and straps with code BLACKFRIDAY40

Xetum: 60% off sitewide through 11/26

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Moto Koure MK I MechaQuartz Chronograph

November 30, 2016, 5:52 pm

≫ Next: DaLuca Guberon Vintage Watch Strap

≪ Previous: Black Friday and Holiday Watch Deals

At the beginning of this year, I introduced my faithful readers to Moto Koure, a new Australian micro brand. Their debut model, the MK I, is a racing chronograph with hints of Heuer Silverstone combined with a generous helping of 1960's Jaguar. I liked what I saw in the pre-release and now that a fellow collector was good enough to drop one in my hands for a review, I am pleased to report that the finished product exceeds my expectations.

Moto Koure MK I MechaQuartz Burgundy Dial

Moto Koure offers the MK I in several colors with either a Seiko NE88 column wheel automatic or a VK64 MechaQuartz hybrid movement. The watch featured here is a burgundy dial MechaQuartz. Being a thrifty enthusiast, it is the one I would most likely purchase myself. While I love mechanical chronographs, and the NE88 is certainly attainable, the VK series' marriage of quartz timekeeper and mechanical chronograph module offers a satisfying sweep and snap-back for a list price of $635 AUD ($468 USD), less than half that of the automatic.

Nothing about the MechaQuartz MK I betrays its budget status. Its appearance is nearly identical to that of its pricier sibling. In the tradition of many automobiles, the most obvious difference is the dashboard trim; this one has a silver diamond plate "surfboard" surrounding its subdials while the automatics wear wood grain. There isn't a bad color combination in the collection, but I particularly appreciate the rich burgundy on the review watch as it is relatively uncommon.

Moto Koure MK I MechaQuartz Burgundy Dial wrist shot

The stick markers and hands are filled with "old radium" SuperLuminova. To my eye, the lume is more of an apricot than the warm tan normally associated with that color, but it is not at all unattractive. In fact, I rather liked the way it works with the wine color of the dial. Other eye-catching details include an orange spearhead second hand, a raised rose gold plate for the brand name, and the way the tachymeter index wraps over the top and sides of the rehaut. Finally, the dial offers some tasteful brightwork in the form of polished markers, hands, logo, and frames for the date window and registers. This dial just sings. There is not a single thing I would change.

The case is a tall rectangle with rounded corners measuring 40mm wide, 44mm long, and 13mm thick. You can generally expect a cushion case to appear to be one size larger than its width suggests and this is no exception. It wears like a 42mm and this is not a bad thing as the size is perfectly appropriate for a sports watch. I had no issues wearing it on my 6.5" wrist. The most notable aspect to its proportions is its height. A lugless design keeps it compact, but also accentuates the case thickness. On the other hand, a polished, stepped bezel, vertically brushed sides, and elongated pushers break it up, preventing the MK I from looking too heavy or slab-sided.

The large, push-pull crown is signed and ringed with a bold chevron pattern. Water resistance is 50m, which should be more than sufficient for daily wear, after all, the MK I is not a tool watch. I'd classify it as more of a dress/sports model. The crystal is flat sapphire glass. The Moto Koure crest is stamped on the case back. It is a simple design that is nicely executed in a combination of blasted and polished finishes. I found it to be a pleasant change from the exhibition case backs found on so many micros showing off relatively prosaic movements.

A racing chronograph needs a racing strap and the MK I does not disappoint. It comes on drilled burgundy leather with white stitching. Painted orange sides tie back to the orange lume. The strap is well made but not padded at all and quite thin, which makes sense given the somewhat fancy nature of the design. It tapers from 22mm to 20m and the buckle is signed.

Moto Koure MK I MechaQuartz Burgundy Dial strap

I loved the Moto Koure MK I. It is distinctive, well executed, and every detail was thought through. It is one of the few watches I've tested this year that made me say, "Damn, why didn't I order that one!" In fact, I may just do that. Full price is $635 AUD and it is selling now for $540 AUD ($398 USD). It is not the steal the pre-order was, but it is still a mighty tempting proposition.

For more information or to order your own, go to motokoure.com.

Moto Koure MK I MechaQuartz Burgundy Dial lume

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DaLuca Guberon Vintage Watch Strap

December 2, 2016, 3:22 pm

≫ Next: Spinnaker Cahill

≪ Previous: Moto Koure MK I MechaQuartz Chronograph

We watch nerds owe a debt if gratitude to Panerai. You see, fans of the brand are apparently crazy about straps, so much so that they have fueled a whole cottage industry of 24mm leather works. Daniel Luzak was one of those artisans. He founded DaLuca Straps in 2009 to supply the Paneristi, and has since branched out to include a wide range of straps in various sizes and styles as well as small leather goods. For this review, he supplied a strap from DaLuca's Vintage Collection.

The company offers straps made from new material but all of DaLuca's vintage line are made from reclaimed military leather do other DaLuca pieces have been made from various and sundry leather goods, each bearing their own unique wear marks, tool marks, and even the occasional embossed pattern or painted illustration. These vintage leather straps are one-of-a-kind creations, brimming with charm and christened with imaginative names like "Maniard Magne,""A Game Odyssey,""Eye of Aztlan," and "Raug." Clearly, someone is having fun with this.

The Guberon has a French surname because it is made from French ammunition pouch leather that is over 40 years old. It is 24mm wide and 120/72mm long with a sewn-in, Pre-V style, polished and signed buckle. The strap is fitted with tubes and at 2.3mm thick, it is surprisingly slim.

The leather is a warm honey color with a slight sheen and a marvelous patina of dents, marks, and bumps. The tabs are skived and glued flat. Raw cut sides and an unlined back reveal that it is indeed a solid slab of leather without filler. Slight imperfections in stitching show its hand construction but there is nothing sloppy about it.

The long end is punched high enough for a proper fit on my skinny 6.5" wrist with one adjustment hole to spare. It is quite pliable, as one would imagine leather might be after a four-decade break-in period. (I, on the other hand, have grown increasingly stiff and creaky in that same period.) I would fully expect the Guberon to soak up another lifetime of wear and come out the other end grinning.

DaLuca straps are not cheap, and the Guberon is no exception. It sells for $215, which is significantly more than the watch I put it on, but quality craftsmanship does not always come cheap. Shop around and you will find several straps priced just over $100 as well as rubber dive straps and leather, nylon, and Perlon pass throughs selling for significantly less.

Head over to DaLucaStraps.com and see for yourself. If you go before midnight tonight (December 2, 2016) be sure to use code lotsofgifts for 15% off your order. Who knows? You might find a piece that has been waiting 40 years to find you.

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Spinnaker Cahill

December 7, 2016, 1:30 pm

≫ Next: Giveaway: Rotary Les Originales Ultra Slim

≪ Previous: DaLuca Guberon Vintage Watch Strap

Spinnaker watches have built their brand around a nautical theme. While the much of their collection draws upon the aesthetics of competitive sailing, the Cahill takes a different tack, finding inspiration in vintage diver's watches. This 200m diver has more than a hint of Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Tornek Rayville, and Rolex 5513 in its general layout but it doesn't copy of any of these watches so much as it incorporates familiar design cues to into a retro original. The lineup contains the steel and black model 01, the black and gilt model 02, and the black and orange model 03. For this review, Spinnaker supplied a model SP-5033-02.

While the 43mm Cahill is larger than most vintage pieces, it is right on target for a modern sports watch, and in no way bloated. Overall length is 49mm and it is 15.8mm thick from its case back to the top of its domed sapphire crystal. I found it was right at home on my 6.5" wrist and should be an easy fit for most people. It has a brushed case with a round barrel and curved and tapered 22mm lugs. Polished surfaces on the crown, bezel, bottom lip of the case, and the beveled edges of the lugs offer a hint of gloss to dress up its otherwise staid shape. I found it particularly effective in black. A domed sapphire crystal completes the look.

The 120-click unidirectional bezel moves freely. I would prefer a touch more resistance, but it does not exhibit and back play or slippage. The narrow sapphire insert with its Fifty Fathoms layout and lumed markers may just be my favorite feature. It is both purposeful and polished, dressing up the watch without detracting from its utility.

Dial layout consists of the usual diver's dots-and-bars with applied, slightly oversized gold markers, gold Mercedes hands, and a lollipop second hand. While I like the overall look, the markers lack depth. A touch more height and a recess for the lume fill would go a long way to adding dimension. As it stands, I had to look closely to be sure they weren't flat against the dial. That said, it is a very attractive dial. It is matte black with a fine grainy texture not quite as pronounced as that of the Manchester Watch Works Tatoskok or NTH Amphion Vintage. The text, date window, and minute index are printed in gold, while the brand name is applied. It works well, and I applaud Spinnaker on its choice of a short, widely spaced typeface for the movement and water resistance. I cannot understand why so many budget watch brands insist on using a generic typeface that is indistinguishable from Microsoft Arial, but I am always grateful when they don't.

The watch is signed on the dial, crown, buckle, rotor, case, display window, and strap. It sounds like overkill but actually works quite well. The Spinnaker brand is rendered in a streamlined typeface that I remember fondly from certain 1950's cars and appliances. It is applied to the dial and rotor, and engraved or stamped elsewhere. As such, it does not jump out at you and is even more understated in black.

Out back, the name is unobtrusively stamped into the underside of the leather strap. An A Miyota 8215 automatic is visible through the exhibition case back. This is a stalwart, budget movement with 21 jewels and a 21.6k bph beat rate. It does not hack or hand wind. The unit itself isn't much to look at, but the custom blue rotor behind the sail logo on the display window cleverly creates the illusion of a boat on the water.

Each Cahill comes with two straps. With the model 02, you get a tan NATO and thick, water resistant leather, both with hardware to match the case. I loved the oil tanned leather. It is nicely finished, but its minimal stitching, matte finish, and pronounced pull-up effect perfectly capture the right rugged, vintage look. Of course, any proper diver's watch needs a fully waterproof strap so the heavy nylon NATO and signed, removable buckle is a welcome addition. They even supply a strap changing tool. The watch and its accessories are neatly presented in a heavy wooden presentation box.

The Cahill is yet on sale, but it will be soon for $475. I believe this is a reasonable price for a watch of this type. It may not have a sexy movement, but the vintage vibe, sapphire bezel, and strap options are spot on. I'm told it will launch in the next few weeks, so keep an eye on spinnaker-watches.com for more.

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Giveaway: Rotary Les Originales Ultra Slim

December 14, 2016, 5:00 pm

≫ Next: Huguenin Observer

≪ Previous: Spinnaker Cahill

So we are well into December, the year's end is rapidly approaching, and I still haven't given anything away. That changes now!

The Time Bum is giving away the Rotary Les Originales Ultra Slim reviewed here. This elegant dress watch has a retail value is $284. All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight December 30, 2016.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law.

You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter.

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good Luck!

↧

Huguenin Observer

December 14, 2016, 6:51 pm

≫ Next: Don Kylne Chaplin Special Edition

≪ Previous: Giveaway: Rotary Les Originales Ultra Slim

Huguenin may not be the most familiar name among watch enthusiasts, but the Swiss company enjoyed more than a century of fine clock and watch production before shifting to other ventures in the 1990's. Zaf Basha of ClassicWatch.com and a partner purchased the name and in 2009, they produced a high-quality mechanical chronograph. Unlike the vast majority of current micro brands, the Huguenin bears the Swiss Made appellation. The watch came in four models, the brushed stainless steel Observer and the PVD black Professional, both with black or full lume dials. They sold for $2,400 including a Pelican case, screwdriver, and extra leather strap.

It wasn't all that long ago, but 2009 was a different time for micro brands. Kickstarter was brand new, and no one was using it to pre-fund watches. Zaf told me that if he were to do it again, he would do things differently. Specifically, he would avoid the cost and headaches of low-volume Swiss production. "It's a little bit insane," he said. "I don’t think they’re used to it, so I think that's why so few people do it." Next time around, he would have them assembled in America. Even with a high unit cost and no pre-funding, 80 percent of the Huguenin run sold, but there are still some units available and that is good news for watch geeks because you can now buy a brushed Observer for just $1,099, or a PVD Professional for $1,199. Zaf let me try a black dial Observer for this review.

Zaf is a military watch buff, so it is no surprise that the Huguenin has much in common with WW2-era navigation watches. Like them, it uses grand size and a clean, high contrast layout for at-a-glance legibility. The case is beautifully finished and 47mm wide; its proportions inspired by 1930's Longines Weems pilots' watches. While it may be oversized by any practical measure, it is still reasonably wearable. Well, for most people that is. Zaf wears his without any problem, but the Observer's 56mm long case slightly overhangs my stick-like, 6.5" wrist. Curved lugs help reduce the size a touch, and I even managed to squeeze its 17mm thickness under a shirt cuff, but you really need a circumference of 7" or greater to pull it off.

You won't find many true mechanical chronographs in the affordable end of the market, and when you do, they will most likely be a SeaGull ST19 variant. The Huguenin runs the sturdy, popular, and considerably more expensive Swiss Valjoux 7750 automatic, a 25-jewel movement that runs at 28.8k bph. If you were to unscrew the case back, you would discover a signed rotor and a cam-and-lever escapement. I've grown accustomed to the quartz and hybrid chronographs that dominate this end of the market, so the 7750 was a pleasant change. The buttons reward a firm push with a positive mechanical click and the sweep hand snaps back with alacrity.

In proper military fashion, the Huguenin's dial is crisp and easy to read. Long, dagger-like hands graze their markers and a generous helping of SuperLuminova makes the whole thing pop to life at night. It has a bicompax layout with no small seconds dial, just a 30-minute register at the top and 12-hour register below. It also includes a 3 o'clock date window. A broad dial allows these elements to fit with a minimum of compromise. Only the 6 gets snipped to make way for the lower register. My favorite touch is the way the Hugueinin brand name is seamlessly incorporated by wrapping it over a sub dial.

The 24mm strap is made of Italian leather and neatly finished. The review sample's was olive green – quite fitting for a military watch. I found it pliable and comfortable with ample room for adjustment. It secures with heavy screw bars and a signed, Pre-V style buckle.

I should note that the Huguenin lacks some of the niceties we micro brand buyers have come to expect. The case back is neatly engraved but has no decoration. The burly crown has a deep gear-tooth edge but is unsigned. It is water resistant to 50m, which is perfectly reasonable and on par for a pilot's watch, but less than we might expect from a tool watch. The domed crystal is mineral, not sapphire. Zaf has swapped a lovely acrylic onto his personal watch, and is willing to make the same modification for others, but cannot guarantee water resistance afterward.

None of these are deal-breakers, but more an indication of how affordable watch fans' expectations have changed. As it is, the Observer is still an excellent value. For comparison, the 44mm Laco Kiel shares the 7750 movement and 50m water resistance, has similar dimensions and layout, and it does offer the advantages of a display back and sapphire crystal, but it also lists for over $2,000. Searching online, the best price I could find on the Laco was still $300 more than the Observer. Indeed, once you add in a Pelican case and spare strap, the Huguenin's $1,099 price starts to look like a heck of a deal.

If you are shopping for a traditional pilot's chronograph, value Swiss movement, and prefer to own something that might be new to your fellow watch nerds, head over to ClassicWatch.com and check out the Huguenin.

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Don Kylne Chaplin Special Edition

December 17, 2016, 8:39 am

≫ Next: Giveaway: Valachio Panitam

≪ Previous: Huguenin Observer

I highlighted Don Kylne Watches last year when they released the Chaplin, a 40.5mm cushion case dress watch with a Miyota 8245 movement and a distinctly 1920's design vibe. They have recently announced a new Special Edition of that watch. It has a lovely "Tiffany Green" ceramic dial, anodized blue hands, and dark grey crocodile strap. The key specifications of the Caplin remain, including the engraved case sides, domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, display case back, and 50m water resistance; however, the vibrant new color, Art Deco roman numerals, and guilloche steel sub-dial make it Don Kylne's most attractive model yet.

The watch costs $450. Only 100 will be made and they are already 80 percent claimed so if you want one, you had better act fast. Head over to donkylne.com/special-edition to place your deposit.

↧

Giveaway: Valachio Panitam

December 19, 2016, 2:00 pm

≫ Next: Giveaway: TC-9 Brass Pilot

≪ Previous: Don Kylne Chaplin Special Edition

I had a couple of items I meant to give away this year, but time has crept up on me and suddenly I've got 2017 looming large before me. Time to host some more giveaways!

This one is the Valachio Panitam I mentioned here and here. It is a 40mm quartz, just under 7mm thick, black on black with red hands, and a black calf leather strap on speed pins. The domed sapphire crystal is a nice vintage touch. It retails for $102 and is rapidly running out of stock. Why not try your luck to win one? All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight December 24, 2016. Yes, Christmas Eve. I'm a regular Santa Bum.

↧

Giveaway: TC-9 Brass Pilot

December 19, 2016, 5:00 pm

≫ Next: Giveaway: DaLuca Guberon Vintage Ammo Strap

≪ Previous: Giveaway: Valachio Panitam

What's this? Another giveaway? Yep. I've accumulated a lot of stuff this year and I've almost run out of time to give it away. This means you get a bunch of chances to win some sweet watchy goodness this month! I've already offered a Rotary Les Originales Ultra Slim (ends 12/30) and a Valachio Panitam (ends 12/24). Now, I've got a TC-9 Pilot.

This is the same watch I reviewed here. It has a 43.5mm brass case with a titanium back, crown, and buckle. Inside, is a SeaGull ST3600 hand winding movement. Retail value is approximately $248 USD.

All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight December 24, 2016. Yes, Christmas Eve. Santa Bum is coming to town!

↧

Giveaway: DaLuca Guberon Vintage Ammo Strap

December 20, 2016, 3:00 am

≫ Next: Giveaway: Form.Function.Form Watch Strap

≪ Previous: Giveaway: TC-9 Brass Pilot

I just can't stop myself - I must keep hosting giveaways! This time, I'm offering up a 24mm ammo strap by DaLuca.

The Guberon was reviewed here. It is handmade from 40-year-old French ammunition bag leather and was fitted only for the review and photo shoot. Then it went right back in the bag. It even has the tag on it. Retail value is $215 USD.

All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight December 24, 2016. Yes, Christmas Eve. Unlike Santa Claus, Santa bum does not care if you were naughty or nice. You just need to be lucky enough for the random winner generator to draw your name.

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Giveaway: Form.Function.Form Watch Strap

December 20, 2016, 2:00 pm

≫ Next: The Time Bum's Totally Selfish Gift Guide

≪ Previous: Giveaway: DaLuca Guberon Vintage Ammo Strap

Ok, one more giveaway. This time it's a 22mm Horween leather button-stud watch strap by Form.Function.Form. Retail value $42.

I got the strap when I did the review I posted here, but it is not the one used for the review. It was an alternate strap in a similar color (but not quite, this is more of an oxblood than a dark brown). It has never been worn, never been fitted to a watch, nothing. It has just been waiting for you.

To enter, just click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight December 24, 2016. Yes, Christmas Eve. If you are the lucky winner, Santa Bum will drop it down your chimney. Well, you know, metaphorically.

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The Time Bum's Totally Selfish Gift Guide

December 22, 2016, 11:23 am

≫ Next: BluShark Nylon Watch Straps

≪ Previous: Giveaway: Form.Function.Form Watch Strap

It is December 22. There are only three more days until Christmas and the first night of Hanukkah. I hate to break it to you, but if you haven't done your gift shopping by now, it's not looking good. You can try to rush something to your doorstep with express shipping or make a last minute stop at the mall to pick up something - anything - for those last few people on your list, or maybe just scribble some coupons for free back rubs. It's up to you, but I'm not here to help you with that. You see, while most holiday gift guides suggest things for you to buy other people, this one is all about things you should buy for yourself.

Now before you get all judgmental on me, consider this: you are the one who waited until the last possible minute to do something nice for your loved ones, not me. You put off your shopping for as long as I put off writing this article. Am I holding it against you? No, I am not. I am merely suggesting you kick back and celebrate yourself. Why not? You've been good all year. You've worked hard. You've earned it.

Orion Watch Project

I reviewed the Orion 1 by Orion Watches (formerly Watches By Nick) earlier this year and just loved it. The slab-sided 38mm case, pouty crown guards, and broad knurled crown set the watch apart from the crowd, while a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, applied markers, and a Seiko NH35 automatic movement brought it home. You can still get one for $450 (and take another $50 off the Orion 1 red or blue with code "timebum50") but maybe you would prefer something a little bit different. For that, I'd recommend you click the "Orion Special Edition" page and feast your eyes on the Blackbird, a full DLC version with ghost hands a blue-green lume for $625. Note that the markers may appear gold in some pictures, but they are silver. It's just a reflection. Other special editions are available as well but act now because quantities are limited and they appear to be selling fast.

Speaking of which, be sure to check out the fully engraved versions. There are none in stock now, but I hear one or two may be ready for sale in a couple months. Head over to OrionWatches.org and check them out.

Undone Urban Chronograph

If you are reading this blog, then you probably want a watch. Why not get one customized to your own personal specifications? Undone is ready to deliver. I already featured the Aqua, a large, automatic diver's watch. They are now taking Kickstarter pre-orders for their second model, the Urban Chronograph. It is a departure from the Aqua in size (40mm), and movement (Seiko MechaQuartz), but it continues the tradition of full-on customization.

The Urban Chronograph has some of my favorite vintage watch design elements: a domed crystal, a stepped bezel, a convex dial, and a sensible size. There are five distinct pre-configured models, and while none is a straight homage, each takes its cues from one of five iconic watches: Jean-Claude Killy Rolex Dato Compax, Breitling Navitimer, Heuer Autiva, Paul Newman Rolex Daytona, and Omega Speedmaster. These are going for $155 each. They are perfectly lovely (the Killy is my personal favorite), but for true individualists, only full customization will do. For that, choose the $170 Build Your Own option and go wild. A host of colors, layouts, hand sets, and straps awaits you. When you are done with that, upload your own artwork to be reverse printed on the display case back. You will get exactly what you want and for an absurdly low price. What's not to like?

Pre-configured models should be ready by the end of January 2017, custom watches in February and March.

Vintage Watches

Retro style is great, but there is no substitute for the real thing. If you are willing to drop a little more cash, you can pick up some beautiful and truly distinctive vintage timepieces for an excellent price. Other people may not get it. "It's used," they'll say, "it looks old, and what if it breaks?" Avoid these people. They don't appreciate the finer things in life. But you know better. You know these hardy little machines can stand the test of time. You understand that patina is a sign of a life well lived. You get it, and that is why you need to buy yourself a sweet vintage watch. Here are some charming and distinctive options available now.

RetroWatchGuy.com always has a healthy selection of affordable watches like this 1960's Edox Dyno-Mat for just $375. It has a newly serviced 21 jewel ETA automatic, a remarkably preserved 35mm square case, and a magnificently mottled gray dial. This tropical aging doesn't happen overnight, and it presents a nifty contrast to the otherwise vibrant colors surrounding it.

Over at ClassicWatch.com, you will find an eclectic mix with prices ranging from a couple hundred to tens of thousands. For a Bum on a budget looking to express his individuality, I'd suggest this glorious 1950's Elgin Direct Read for $1,599. It has a hand winding, jump hour movement and a minty 14k gold filled case. You won't see one like this every day.

Were you good all year? I mean really good? Do you have a wad of holiday bonus money burning a hole in your pocket? Then how about a 1970's Heuer Bund? These German Air Force issue mechanical chronographs are 42mm wide and run a 17 jewel, hacking Valjoux 230 movement. ClassicWatch.com has two of these badass beauties in stock for $4,595 and $4,795.

Combat Straps

So you've bought the perfect watch, now you need the perfect strap to go with it, and for that, you should head on over to Combat-Straps.com. As you might expect from its martial name, they make straps from ammo pouches and WW2 vintage canvas, but they also offer a dizzying array of strap materials, colors, and other options to create the strap of your dreams. Each strap is made to your specifications so you can be sure it is exactly the size, length, and style you want. Best of all, prices start at just $150.

Do you want shell cordovan, Alcantara, or ostrich leather? They've got it. Fancy some hand painted fighter nose art on your canvas? They'll do it. Looking for something more exotic like shark, python, or polished stingray? No problem. Want a pink toad strap with red stitching and an orange keeper? Well... I suspect you might be color blind, but they can do it.

So there you have it. The Time Bum has given you permission to treat yourself and pointed you in the right direction. Now go buy yourself something nice.

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BluShark Nylon Watch Straps

December 27, 2016, 10:41 pm

≫ Next: NTH Tropics: Azores and Antilles

≪ Previous: The Time Bum's Totally Selfish Gift Guide

BluShark bills its products as "a better breed of nylon watch strap." This struck me as an interesting claim. It's not because I believe nylon straps can't be improved, but because nylon pass-through straps follow a pretty basic formula. They are simple and inexpensive by design. How exactly would you improve the breed? BluShark sent me an assortment to find out, including the budget minded Original, the heavyweight Orca, and the top of the line AlphaShark.

BluShark are a standard 280mm (11") length, two-layer NATO design. Those seeking a shorter strap can buy the Piranha, a 260mm version of the Original. Some of the straps come with standard NATO hardware, which is to say the slim keepers and short, sewn-in buckles we have grown accustomed to. The review samples all had BluShark's premium hardware, which consists of heavy, squared keepers and a sturdy, flat-tang buckle that is signed and removable. You can order many of the straps in a choice of Standard Premium hardware in brushed, polished, black, or gold finishes. All of the samples were brushed except for the blue AlphaShark, which was polished. Right off the bat, the buckles were a significant step up. I don't often swap buckles on NATO straps, but it is nice to have that option when your watch has a distinctive buckle that matches its case (Zelos and Halios spring to mind). That said, there is really no reason to switch at all, as BluShark's buckles are as nice as I've seen on most watches and make the straps feel all the more substantial.

All three straps exhibited top-notch construction and finish: the hardware is sewn-in, the square adjustment holes are neat and sealed, and there were no rough edges or loose threads to be found. This may seem rather basic – and it is – but I have been astounded at how many inexpensive nylon straps fail in one or more of these areas so I applaud BluShark for getting the foundation right.

The Original is the least expensive of the three, starting at $15.50 with standard hardware and $18.00 with Premium. Most common NATO straps use a fairly lightweight nylon weave that is about 1mm thick. The Original is heavier. According to the precision instruments here at Time Bum Laboratories, it is 1.2mm thick. Of the three, it offers the most variety in terms of both available colors and sizes. You can order most colors in sizes 18-24mm an those of us with smaller wrists can try Piranha collection, which uses the same weight weave but in a 260mm length. I got a gray sample that looked quite nice on my Lew & Huey Orthos.

The Orca is the bruiser of the collection, sporting a heavy-duty 1.5mm weave in a 20mm or 22mm width. You would be hard-pressed to notice a difference between the Original and the Orca in photographs but the difference is readily apparent in person as the Orca's beefy weave has a pronounced waffle pattern as opposed to the Original's horizontal striations, and is stiffer to the touch. My 6.5" wrist requires that I tuck the excess tail on a NATO strap back into the keepers. I was concerned that the thicker material would prove to be too much, but I had no problem fitting it through. It sells for $19. The Orca is recommended for tool watches so I paired the 20mm olive sample with a chunky Maratac Mid.

The AlphaShark was the strap I most looked forward to reviewing, as it is billed as the "luxury" nylon strap, which sounds like a contradiction in terms. Let me tell you, they are not kidding. The AlphaShark is just at thick as the Orca, but a high thread count makes is silky smooth and a touch more malleable. It has a luxury price too, selling for $32. It is only available with Premium hardware and in 20mm and 22mm widths. The black and gray stripe was a nice pairing for my Bombfrog Minesweeper and my Manchester Watch Works Morgan just rocked the rich navy blue.

So does BluShark deliver on its promise? Absolutely. All of the straps exhibited quality construction and materials, the differences in the grades of nylon were immediately apparent, and frankly, once you have tried the AlphaShark, you won't want to go back. I really have only two criticisms. My first is that the straps' thicker weave can be both a blessing and a curse. It certainly adds substance, but also adds bulk. My second observation, which is that the delicious AlphaShark is only offered in two widths and a standard length. I'd love to see this collection offered in a shorter width and a greater variety of styles.

Check out the BluShark collections at blusharkstraps.com and take advantage of their 2-for-1 offer, 10% signup discount, and free shipping on orders over $25.

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NTH Tropics: Azores and Antilles

December 30, 2016, 2:15 pm

≫ Next: Resolutions Revisited

≪ Previous: BluShark Nylon Watch Straps

Chris Vail is really on to something with his new NTH line. The formula is not complicated: take a classic watch, stir in some new details, build it to modern specs, sell. He isn't the only one doing this (arguably, this is the formula for 95 percent of the watchmaking industry) but he is doing it exceedingly well, and proves it once again with NTH's sophomore effort, the Tropics. I previewed these back in October, but today I have prototypes of the new Azores and Antilles in hand.

Where the first NTH models drew upon Rolex and Tudor Submariners, the Tropics derive their design from 1950's and 60's vintage compressor case diving watches, generally recognized by their internal timing bezels and dual crowns. With rare exceptions, watches of that era were a good two sizes smaller than they are today. Recognizing this, Chris sensibly kept the case to a modest 40mm wide and 48mm long. This is by no means undersized, and the internal bezel tends to make the dial and therefore the watch, appear slightly larger in person. For my 6.5" wrist, its proportions are ideal and it should be an easy fit for most people.

He also went to great lengths to keep the watch as thin as possible. While the prototypes are 11.5mm thick, production models will be 12mm. This is because the samples have a Miyota 9015 inside, whereas the finals will run a Swiss Tech Production STP1-11. The new movement's specs are similar to both the Miyota 9015 and the ETA 2824: 24 jewels, a hacking second hand, a smooth 28.8k bph vibration rate, and a 44-hour power reserve. Now I do love a thin case, but given the rising cost of the Miyotas and the undeniable allure that Swiss movements hold for many buyers, I must admit the STP is a smart move, and likely well worth the 0.5mm difference, which will be accomplished with a deeper dish to the case back.

Typical of Chris's watches, the case is brilliantly executed. Polished surfaces on the bezel, crowns, and chamfered outer edges of the lugs contrast against the north-south brushing on the top surface and the vertical brushing on the sides. The 20mm lugs are angular and terminate in a flat "chopped off" tip.

Screw-down crowns at 2 and 4 o'clock (yes, both screw down) are coin-edged and decorated. The upper crown has a crosshatch pattern, and the lower one is signed. This lume-filled logo was one of my favorite features on the Subs, and I am pleased to see it return. The sapphire crystal is raised, double domed, and anti-reflective.

Around back, you will find a high relief stamping of a diving helmet. This is another nod to history, as the original ESPA Super Compressor cases were marked with a helmet logo. Please note that the NTH, like most contemporary diving watches, uses a threaded case back and modern materials to achieve its 200m water resistance, not a pressure-sensitive bayonet mount case back like the vintage pieces. To my eye, the case most resembles that of the handsome Hamilton Cape Horn, without actually mimicking it.

The watches ship with both a perforated "tropic" rubber strap and a stainless steel "beads of rice" bracelet. The black rubber strap is 20mm wide, tapering to a signed buckle. I found it to be quite comfortable, lint-free, and period-correct.

The bracelet is a nice piece, with solid end links and single-ended screw pins, which makes sizing a breeze. Brushed outer links and round, polished beads in the center offer fine articulation, allowing the bracelet to cascade smoothly over your wrist. It tapers from 20mm to 18mm at the first link, further slimming the watch. I love this style, and it suits the Tropics' tailored appearance. It would be the perfect companion to dress up the watch if it were not for one thing.

My only issue with the bracelet - and really, my only issue with the watch - is the clasp. It's a fine piece in and of itself. The brushed surface and polished center match the case and the links. It has a push-button lock and a wetsuit extension and both functions operate flawlessly. It looks and feels like an industrial-strength unit of professional diving equipment, but that's the problem. It is 42mm long, 8.6mm thick, and that is just too big. At first glance, it looks as if it is almost as large as the watch head. It isn't, of course, but the boxy shape contributes to the illusion. The finished products will have taller, wedge-shaped links to meet the clasp and ease the transition, but the height will be the same. I did not find it to be uncomfortable or intrusive, just inappropriate. It would be right at home on a chunky dive monster with a chiseled link bracelet, but on these svelte watches, it's like wearing Doc Martins with a Tom Ford suit. I hate to say it, but I'd swap the clasp for a lower profile aftermarket flip-lock.

The range features two distinct dials: the sporty Azores and the refined Antilles. The Azores features Arabic numbers inside large triangles at 12, 3, 6, and 9, not unlike the classic Eterna Kon Tiki and any number of similar watches of the era, like my Majestime. The other markers are oversized darts piercing the black dial's sand-textured center section. Similar to the Subs, the Tropics bear the NTH logo as well as the model name in a distinctive and attractively stylized typeface. It is available with or without a date.

The handset consists of polished, faceted arrows and a paddle-tipped second hand. The polished shaft of the hour hand occasionally disappears against the black surface, but its lumed head maintains readability. The Azores comes in two lume "flavors": aged radium Vanilla and Mint Green. Many vintage divers used a very bright green lume, but the Azores has far more white in it. I like its subtlety. Bezel markings are lumed as well, with numbers only at 15 and 45, and positive and negative triangles at 12 and 6. The aggressive angles and bold contrast make for an eye-catching dial in the daytime, but it delivers its best punch at night when all that green pops to life.

The Antilles is the dressier of the two watches, which is not to say it is a dress watch, but with applied and polished markers, coffin hands, and a sunray dial, it offers more dimension and refinement than it sporty stablemate. In place of the Azores's dive timer, the Antilles is marked for a second time zone. Tall numbers in a radial arrangement bring a bit of Bauhaus into the picture. Production models will have a heavier font on the bezel to maximize lume and improve night visibility, but not too heavy, I hope, as I rather like the way the numbers match the width of the markers.

Options include black, blue, and champagne sunray dials, or a full-lume white dial with gray lume in the markers. Black and white dials have a date option. I requested the champagne dial – not because I like champagne dials, mind you. I generally find the yellow tones in gold dials hard to take. Don't ask me why. I know they are a classic look and ideal for dressier watches, but I have yet to own one that I really love. Still, Chris was proud of the way this one turned out, and it looked more brown than yellow in the photos, so I gave it a shot, and I'm glad I did. This is one beautiful watch. Everyone who sees it, watch nerd or no, says the same. It is not champagne or at least no variant of sparkling wine I've ever seen. I tried my best to torture the metaphor and liken it to ale or whiskey, but it lacks the necessary red tones. It's really more of a bronze color that shifts from golden brown to smoky gold as it catches the light, setting off the tall, polished markers and black bezel. It's just gorgeous.

Overall, I enjoyed my time with both of these watches. Once again, NTH has captured the essence of a mid-century classic and turned it into something fresh. Given the availability of inexpensive aftermarket replacements, I wouldn't call the bracelet clasp a deal breaker, but it is something to consider.

The Tropics collection will be $700 after the pre-order period but are currently available for $500, which is a nice price for a watch this cool with a Swiss mechanical movement. Check them out at out janistrading.com.

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Resolutions Revisited

January 1, 2017, 7:11 am

≫ Next: Orion Field Standard PVD

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On January 1, 2016, I made four resolutions focused on my watch hobby and glibly promised to regroup at year's end to see how I'd done. Honestly, folks, I don't know what I was thinking. Did I really expect to report my roaring success? The only New Year's resolution I've ever kept was in 2010 when I vowed to drink more wine. Then again, I didn't completely blow them off, and that does give me a glimmer of hope for next year. So without further ado, let's take stock of 2016 and see what we can do about improving 2017.

1. I will only buy a watch if I love it.

I did pretty well on this one. The problem is, I just have too much love. A few weeks ago, someone asked me how many watches I had. I guessed 65, which is crazy. Nobody needs 65 watches. Then I went back and actually counted them. To my horror, I discovered I owned 95 watches and had 3 more on the way. Ninety-fricken-seven watches. In my defense, I got some awesome pieces like the NTH Amphion Vintage, and this sweet Sinn 103, but when your collection approaches three digits you have crossed the line from hobby to mania. Since then, I've been culling the herd so that I won't end up with my own chapter in the DSM-5, but it ain't easy. I'm going to keep working on this in 2017.

2. I will only store watches where I can see them.

Nailed it! My Ikea watch cabinet project was brilliant if I do say so myself. A place for everything and everything in its place. The downside is that it offers a ton of storage, and the more storage I have, the more I can fill.

3. I will wear every watch I own, at least once this year.

Major fail. I don't keep any official record of the watches I wear, but my Instagram feed is a pretty reliable approximation. The Reverie Sea Spirit made it to my wrist quite often, as did the Zelos Abyss and Manchester Tatoskok. I'm guessing like I wore more than half of the total, but I can think of a couple dozen or so that never saw the light of day, and that is a damn shame.

4. I will let go of the watches I do not wear.

Last year I said, "In 2016, I vow to cast a critical eye on every watch in my collection and unload the bench-warmers." Yeah... not so much. See failures 1 and 3. I've sold a few in the past two months, but that is just the beginning. The fashion quartz I bought back before I was a watch nerd? Sell it! The dive watch that looks just like three other dive watches and never leaves the drawer? Sell it! The Techné Merlin 280 that I bought because it reminded me of a Sinn? Sold it, but only because I finally got the Sinn.

Ok, so one out of four isn't great, but it's not a total failure either. I prefer to think of it as an "incomplete success." I'm going to make my goal for 2017 simple: fewer watches in, more watches out. I promise to give it a shot, and while I'm at it, I'm going to renew that vow to drink more wine.

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Orion Field Standard PVD

January 2, 2017, 4:00 am

≫ Next: 2016 Acquisitions

≪ Previous: Resolutions Revisited

I’ve written about Nick Harris’s watches before. The first was the Traveler by Watches By Nick, a modified Seiko 5 with a traditional field watch dial. The second time, I reviewed the Orion Project, his first micro brand model. I really liked them both. Nick has since rechristened his company as Orion Watches and turned out some cool new variations on the original Orion 1 model. He lent me a new Field Standard in a limited edition PVD black case for this review.

The Orion Field Standard PVD is what would happen if the Traveler and the Orion did the nasty and popped out a pup. Maybe they really did, because the family resemblance is uncanny. It has the same 38mm wide, 49mm long case as the first Orion, complete with that model’s unique crown guards and broad, flat, 9mm screw-down crown. It also shares the high sapphire dome, anti-reflective coating, and 100m water resistance. Overall thickness, from casebook to dome, is 13.6mm. From the Traveler, it inherits a ruggedly handsome military face. C3 lume provides excellent nighttime visibility.

Of course, the best collaborations produce a product that is greater than the sum of its parts, and that is certainly the case here. The familiar field watch face gains a bit of flash in the form of polished darts and squellete hands. Altogether, it makes for a damn handsome watch, but then Nick cranked it up to eleven by making it black. The Orion case responds beautifully to the PVD treatment, in large part because its broad bezel and long lugs provide ample surface area to show the contrast between the brushed upper surface and the polished bezel and sides. The darkness highlights both textures making the watch look stealthy and chic at the same time. I love it.

Inside, you will find a Seiko NH35 movement. This is the familiar hacking, hand winding, 24 jewel automatic found in many a micro brand watch these days. It has a 21.4k bph vibration rate, a power reserve of more than 40 hours, and a reputation for reliability and easy servicing.

The Field Standard comes on a black leather, crocodile grain strap that is heavily padded and fitted to the case so that it completely fills the area between the lugs and matches its contour. It tapers from 20mm at the lug end to and 18mm buckle. White stitching ties in nicely with the white printing on the dial. It’s a great quality strap and it looks perfect on the watch, but if you really wanted to change it, drilled lugs would ease the operation, and I know from experience that the spring bar perches are positioned close enough to the case that a straight-ended two-piece strap won’t leave an unsightly gap. My only nit to pick is that it comes with a brushed silver colored buckle. Sorry, but a black case needs a black buckle. That’s a Time Bum rule.

Nick has done an excellent job on this watch, packing tremendous presence and character into a compact package. You can order a Field Standard now for $400, or $450 for one of just 25 PVD black case versions. Go to OrionWatches.org for more.

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