The Time Bum

So, as you may have read, my 2016 New Year's resolutions were a disaster. I managed to improve watch storage but failed in my efforts to downsize my collection, slow the pace of new acquisitions, or wear the absurd number of watches I own. How did this happen? Mostly because when it comes to watches, I have the impulse control of a 4-year-old. Here is the full report.

Diving Watches

For someone who doesn't dive, I added far too many diving watches to the stable. I started with the Borealis Batial, a 44mm bronze diver watch that wears surprisingly small. Like most of my 2016 arrivals, it has an automatic movement. In this case, the excellent Miyota 9015.

When Armida held a flash Father's Day sale, I seized the opportunity to buy a 43mm blue A7 with a Seiko NH35 automatic. Its intense metallic aqua dial and orange hands make it a summertime classic. This year, I plan to add a polished stingray strap.

From TC-9, I got the 44mm 1970's Diver, which reinterprets the iconic Seiko 6150 turtle case in a bronze case. Like the Armida, it also has an NH35. My biggest challenge was finding a buckle to match the deep red tones of its case. As luck would have it, the Batial buckle was spot-on, and that watch gained a lower profile Pre-V bronze from the strap drawer. Win-Win.

The 43mm Spinnaker Cahill with its Miyota 8215 took me by surprise. That sleek black case, sapphire bezel, and gilt markers and hands give it a charming vintage look. A dark brown, oil-tanned strap is the perfect complement.

The 42mm royal blue Deaumar Ensign with a Seiko 4R36 was a colorful addition. I liked the prototype and was pleasantly surprised when the finished product arrived with a beautiful ceramic bezel insert. Sadly, the micro brand world can be unforgiving, and Deaumar did not survive the year.

NTH managed to make 2016 a little brighter with its Subs line. Remarkably compact at 40mm wide and a scant 11.5mm thick, these beauties marry 1960's sensibility with modern updates and Miyota 9015 movements. I bought an Amphion Vintage and consider it one of my smartest purchases. How much do I like it? I wore it to my high school reunion. Not because I expected to impress anyone with it, but just because it looked so damn good on me.

Pilot's Watches

In addition to not scuba diving, I also did more than my share of not piloting airplanes. I celebrated my complete absence of flying skill with the addition of two pilot's watches. The first was the Redux COURG Zero Hour, a 40mm titanium tool watch with a Seiko NH35. I snagged it for the absurdly low $199 pre-order price and had Joel Mills of Choice Cuts Industries whip up a suitable leather strap. (Joel's work also graced my NTH).

The second aviation watch was a Sinn 103 St Acrylic. This one was an all-occasion (birthday, anniversary, Christmas) present from Mrs. Time Bum. It is a magnificent 41mm classic with a Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement. I promise a full review soon. It was a step above and beyond my usual price point, but being the Bum that I am, I still managed to swing a good deal by waiting for the annual WatchBuys sale.

Vintage Watches

I had some forays into affordable vintage watches as well. I snagged this "transistorized" Caravelle on eBay for just $29. The dial is faded and the plastic crystal is beyond polishing, but that's kind of what I like about it. The movement is mechanical but it is driven by a battery powered solenoid. These were all the rage before they were superseded by more accurate, reliable, and inexpensive quartz movements. Now they are just curiosities but it is good to have one in the collection.

The Midas was another eBay find. This new original stock item from the 1970's was just too good to pass up. You don't see many red, TV dial watches these days and the 37mm barrel case looks surprisingly modern. It has an A.Schild 17 jewel mechanical movement and cost $80. It came without a strap but an 18mm polished shark mesh from Strapcode.com looked just right, even though it cost more than the watch.

An eBay vendor in Poland sold me this minty Ruhla Chronograf. Ruhla was an East German manufacturer that cranked out low cost, and somewhat rudimentary watches well into the 1980's. This model appears to be a 1970's vintage model. The hand winding movement has no jewels and isn't even a real chronograph. The second hand is always in motion. The top button starts the count by snapping it back, and the bottom button is a brake that holds it until released. You might call it the very poor man's flyback. Still, it is an interesting survivor. It cost $129 shipped, which frankly, might be on the high end for one of these.

Of all my eBay finds, this last one was by far the best. I bought an original, unmolested Omega Dynamic for $277. This was a steal. The seller had an eBay store but did not deal in watches. He claimed it was his father's watch and all original. It certainly appeared to be so, showing signs of normal wear, but not abuse. I plan on doing a more complete, affordable vintage post on the Dynamics, so stay tuned.

Trench Watches

I got two trench watches this year. Not just one, two. And it's not like I didn't already have one (a Helgray California quartz). But there were different colors, and had different movements, and... Oh hell. I have no willpower.

The Manchester Watch Works Vergennes was inspired by vintage pocket watches, as evidenced by its traditional white dial and blued hands. I like the fact that it is only 40mm wide and looks so damn good on colorful NATOs. This one became a staple of my summertime workday wardrobe. It runs a Miyota 8245 automatic.

For as much as I enjoy mechanical watches, I won't turn up my nose when the right quartz comes along. This sweet blue McDowell Time DelRay is a perfectly lovely trench style watch made all the more interesting by its Seiko YT57 Kinetic movement. Unlike a quartz, the movement has no battery but uses a mechanical rotor to charge its twin capacitors, all of which are visible through the exhibition case back. I love stuff like this. The DelRay is significantly larger than the Vergennes, measuring 44mm wide, yet it wears smaller than you might think.

Quartz Chronographs

Finally, I went a little crazy for racing chronographs in 2016, and you know what? I don't regret any of them. The Manchester Watch Works Morgan channels the spirit of the Zenith El Primero into a tidy 40mm unit packing an IsaSwiss 8371C quartz with a 1/5 second sweep. The "blue-eyed" silver dial looks sharp and I swooned over its quilted leather strap. Of course, that didn't stop me from trying some other straps as well. It rocked this BluShark AlphaShark nylon, and I think it will spend the rest of the winter on a CheapestNATOStraps.com blue suede.

I borrowed a Moto Koure MK I from Guest Bum GUTuna for a review and loved it so much that I bought it from him (he bought two). The MK I uses a Seiko MechaQuartz in an uncommon rectangular case. It looks like nothing else in my collection and is positively stunning with its burgundy dial and diamond plate pattern "dashboard."

The last chrono on the list is a Vratislavia Conceptum Heritage Youngtimer S.5. This is the latest variant of the model I reviewed last October, but they have switched from MechaQuartz to Miyota 6s21 quartz. The dial is a distinctive, yet subtle, combination of gray, brown, and orange. I put it on a CheapestNATOStraps.com brown alligator rally strap with orange stitching (a "rallygator," if you will) and achieved a sort of strap nirvana.

... And One More

The last watch on the list defies easy categorization. The Zelos Cosmos is just plain cool. This 45mm hockey puck uses laser cut and engraved discs driven by an ETA 2824-2 automatic and it is a thing of strange beauty. You might call it a concept piece, or a conversation piece, or just plain odd, but I love the hell out of it.

So there we have it. I picked up 19 watches this year. No regrets, but maybe I should try to balance the ratio of watches in to watches out a little more judiciously this year.

It has been a little more than two years since I last had a Tangramatic watch on my wrist. That last one was the 39a California, a quality affordable watch with some creative touches that set it apart from the pack. Tangramatic's owner and designer, Francis del Mundo of Sydney, Australia has not been idle in that time. He lent me two two samples of his more recent work, a new Nereid and a well-loved prototype Hyperion for this review.

Tangramatic Nereid Argo and Hyperion Automatic

Nereid the Benevolent Mariner

The Nereid is a Marine Chronometer styled watch. It sells for $465 AUD (about $340 USD). There are two models, the Pacific and the Argo, each with their own Tangramatic twist. Both watches share the same stainless steel case; 42mm wide, 48mm long, and 12mm thick with a fixed bezel and drilled lugs that hook downward to rounded ends. The case has a brushed bezel and its entire lower section, including the lugs, is polished. Nautical images and the watch's basic specs decorate the porthole case back, which displays the skeleton rotor and Geneva striped bridge of a Miyota 8245 or 8247 movement. These 21 jewel, hand winding automatics have a 21.6k bph vibration rate and a power reserve exceeding 40 hours.

Given their nautical inspiration, you would expect the Nereids to be capable seafarers. To this end, they have anti-reflective coated sapphire crystals and are water resistant to 100m. You may order a Nereid on a 20mm leather strap, but more water-friendly options are offered as well, including your choice of heavy or fine link Milanese mesh and two colors of canvas. My review sample wore beige canvas, which coupled with its white dial, gave the watch a breezy, summery look.

The Nereid Pacific is the more conservative of the two. It holds a handsome white enamel or brushed navy dial with printed Arabic numbers and a railroad track index. In a slight break from tradition, the watch has two sub dials (24 hour and small seconds) instead of the usual single small seconds at 6 o'clock. In a more significant break, this model's 8247 is positioned such that the crown is at 2 o'clock and the registers sit low in the dial below the usual 9 and 3 o'clock midline. It is an interesting spin on the classic, but that is not the Nereid I received. I got the far more modern Nereid Argo.

The Argo is a sailor gone Bauhaus. Its 8245 movement is placed with the crown midway between 3.and 4 o'clock, retaining the usual Marine Chronometer's 6 o'clock small seconds, but the watch jettisons just about every other expected design element. The dial has long, fine lines for markers, each met with blued, pencil-thin baton hands. There is no lume. In lieu of numerals, the even numbers are spelled out. The Argo's use of typography is similar to that of the Tangramatic Bauhaus watch, but this time the effect is far more subtle. Where the other watch stacked words of varying sizes to fill the dial, the new watch new watch seamlessly integrates its proportional text into the index. You might have to look twice before you appreciate what Francis has done, but you will smile when you do. The brand model names in the upper portion of the dial show the same attention to detail. The typeface is light and modern, arcing over a tiny anchor logo. It is a clean, clever, perfectly balanced layout.

I found the Nereid to be a comfortable fit on my 6.5" wrist. Short lugs and a relatively slim profile make it seem a touch smaller than its 42mm measurement might suggest. It was no problem slipping it under a shirt cuff and with a simple strap swap, I could easily see the watch in a variety of settings. Leather or fine mesh will do nicely with a suit and tie in the office, canvas for weekends on the water, and maybe mix it up with a brightly colored nylon NATO every now and then.

The next time someone shows you the latest derivative minimalist watch on Kickstarter, please direct him to the Nereid Argo instead. He might learn something.

Hyperion the Ardent Explorer

The Hyperion is the stylistic opposite of the Nereid. Where the Nereid is stately and reserved, the Hyperion an over-the-top pastiche of pilot, explorer, and diver influences. The watch features two rows of long markers and indices cut out of a sun ray dial layered over C3 SuperLuminova. A higher grade of lume graces the faceted sword hands and the spear tip of the fabulous, semi-skeletonized second hand.

There are three distinct versions, each having a different dial and movement. They are not yet in stock; a funding campaign will launch on Kickstarter shortly. At a pre-order price of $260 AUD (about $189 USD), the value leader is a Swiss Ronda 713 quartz. The dial proclaims it to be Piezoelectric, which sounds much cooler. This movement has 5 jewels, a 5-year battery, end of life indication, and gold plating. The dial has even numbered hour markers and a printed chapter index.

There are two mechanical models available for pre-order at $360 AUD (about $265 USD). They contain a Miyota 9015 or 90s5 (date and no date) Both movements are high-quality 28.8k bph, 24 jewel automatics that hack and hand wind. The no-date model shuffles the Piezoelectric dial into an Explorer layout with numbers at 12, 3, 6, and 9. My review sample had a date. This dial has no numbers or chapter index at all, just a mesmerizing explosion of lume lines, and a porthole at 6 o'clock.

Tangramatic Hyperion automatic date macro

The shimmering blue sunray against the green-white lume is a knockout combination in the daytime, but the nighttime glow will absolutely blow you away. This thing glows like a torch. Francis did not skimp on the lume. It is quality stuff layered on thick and even so it charges quickly even under fairly dim household light and does not betray any dim or patchy spots. Fully charged, it is just unearthly. Note that the date window isn't treated with lume in the picture below, it is just lit up by the nearby minute hand.

Tangramatic Hyperion automatic date lume

Given its tool watch inspirations, it would be a shame if the Hyperion couldn't stand up to some outdoor duty. To that end, it boasts 200m water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and a signed screw-down crown. Not to be outdone by the dial, the case back displays a comic book hero image of the Lord of Light himself, as drawn by Francis. The watch comes on a 20mm buffalo grain leather strap, which seem odd for 200m watch, but the Hyperion is not really a diver, so the more versatile leather makes good sense.

Tangramatic Hyperion automatic date caseback

Many watchmakers would have taken this design concept and blown it up into a 44-45mm monster. Francis did not, and I love him for it. The Hyperion's polished case is just 40.5mm wide, 13mm high, and thanks to some super stubby lugs, only 44mm long. Rounded case sides and a 4 o'clock crown make it seem even more compact. It was an ideal fit for my stick wrist, but it does not come off like a small watch. That powerful dial gives it huge presence, but its modest size prevents it from being overwhelming. To my eyes, it is ideal.

Tangramatic Hyperion automatic date wrist

Tangramatic is still a new venture, but its identity is clear. True to form, Nereid and Hyperion are reasonably sized, sensibly priced, and delightfully unconventional. See the Tangramatic webstore for more information.

If the site looks strange, it's not just you. The Bum has to do some tinkering.
Thanks!

I reviewed the Deaumar Ensign prototype just before its launch in February. I liked its looks and declared it to be an impressive value, but despite my doubtless invaluable endorsement, it failed to fund on Kickstarter. Fortunately, Deaumar continued pre-sales on its own and secured enough to see it through to production. Now, Ensigns are shipping out to their owners and a new model, the Chronova, is on its way. In anticipation of the launch, Deaumar sent me a new blue Ensign and a prototype Chronova for review.

Ensign

Like the prototype, the final version is a 200m dress diver with a Seiko 4R36 automatic in a 42mm stainless steel case. Features include a screw down crown, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, and a solid link bracelet with a signed clasp. Short, integrated lugs keep the length to a compact 46mm, which makes for a tidy fit on smaller wrists without sacrificing presence. I was taken with the shimmering blue dial and plodded markers on the prototype and the final is no different. The final watch stays true to the prototype but has been upgraded with solid end links, a solid two-piece clasp, and it trades the printed aluminum bezel insert for glossy, engraved ceramic.

Deaumar had always planned for solid links, but the ceramic was a later addition. It vastly improves the watch. There is nothing inherently bad about aluminum, but I have grown to love the slick look and high scratch resistance of ceramic. My only real criticism of the prototype was the fat font printed in silver on the bezel. The new insert does away with this. The engraved markers are better proportioned than the old ones, and the white color is a better match to the markers on the dial.

Of course, the price has changed as well. You could pre-order the Ensign for £131 GBP, or about $189 USD at the time. The watch is now £249 GBP, which thanks to a favorable exchange rate, is just over $403 USD. Perhaps not the bargain it was before, but still a fair price for a satisfying watch.

Chronova

Now, let's move on to the new one. Like its stablemate, it uses a Seiko movement, but this time it is the VK63 MechaQuartz, a popular hybrid movement that marries a quartz timekeeper to a mechanical chronograph module. This combination yields a reliable, inexpensive movement with a smooth, 1/5 second sweep and crisp snap back on reset.

The stainless steel case measures 42mm wide and 51mm long. Its upper surface is brushed, the sides and bezel are polished, and a polished chamfer cuts along the the outer edge of the curved lugs. I like a combination of brushed and polished finishes, and this is no exception, but I would have preferred brushed sides to highlight like right chamfer. Long lugs make it wear slightly larger than the Ensign, but one would hardly call it oversized. I found it perfectly comfortable on my 6.5" wrist, and had no difficulty wearing it with a buttoned cuff. The crown is signed, and an engraving of a LeMans racer decorates the case back.

Chronographs are sports watches, so while I do not expect the same degree of toughness found in dive or tool watches, I do appreciate it when they can take some lumps. The Chronova meets the standard with a sapphire crystal and 100m water resistance. The Chronova's H-link bracelet is nearly identical to the Ensign's. Of course, the end links are a different shape, but they share the same finish combination, solid links, and split link pins. It is 22mm wide, tapering to a 20mm signed clasp. Like the Ensign prototype, the preproduction Chronova has folded end links that will be upgraded in production.

Deaumar offers the Chronova in several colors, including a stealthy PVD black, but I requested a gold dial with a red and blue tachymeter index, a color scheme commonly associated with the beloved Seiko 6139-6002 worn by Colonel William Pogue on an 84-day NASA space mission. Not coincidentally, the gold Chronova is called "Pogo." An applied and polished logo and baton markers with beveled ends lend welcome dimension to the face. Deaumar's 1920's style typeface carries this treatment particularly well. Blue index rings surround the three sub dials. Baton hands are polished, and lume filled, while the second hand and sub dial needles are bright red. A framed, black-on-white date window tucks in at 4:30, a placement that does not interfere with an of the other elements. Overall, it is a successful design, effectively marrying the sporty red and blue elements with the fancier metallic gold and bright work.

Pre-orders open on November 3, at 6:00 pm GMT with delivery expected in March. 2017. The pre-order price is £249.99 ($. USD) not including 20% VAT for EU buyers.

Welcome to the new and improved, 2017 version of The Time Bum! As you might have noticed, there have been a few changes around here. I've been meaning to freshen up the site for awhile now. I was never crazy about the generic Google Blogger Dynamic Views layout, but it was easy and it worked so I kept it. Then it stopped working. A freak glitch forced me to abandon the Dynamic Views template I had been using for the past couple of years and revert back to plain vanilla. Yuck. The Dynamic was getting a bit stale, but the original Simple template was about a decade out of date. It was time to move on.

So I finally got off my duff (actually, I kept it firmly planted in front of the computer) and found the Crystal template by pipdig, a quality, off-the-shelf theme that looked good and could be operated by a someone who was essentially HTML illiterate. If you visited the site this weekend, you probably saw me messing around with the formatting and I'm still trying to work out the Archive tab. Yes, I know a professional would have staged it off-line and rolled out a finished product but given my meager amount of time and talent I'm afraid this is as good as it gets. Patchy roll-out aside, I'm pleased with the results. I think the new site is more modern, easier to navigate, and highly readable. I hope you like it too. I still have some tweaking to do and a ton of cleanup on the older posts, but that is going to take a while. In the meantime, if you have issues or discover the site is a glitchy mess, please let me know what problem you encountered and what device and software you were using so I can try to straighten it out.

With the fresh look, I thought I'd announce some other developments. In celebration of my facelift, I am officially releasing myself from the $1,000 price cap on the watches I review. In practice, this was like the Pirate Code, which is to say more of guideline than a rule. I've already featured watches that were well over that limit, like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, Bremont Solo, and Huguenin Observer, so this should hardly come as a shock. Now don't worry, it's not like I'll abandon my quest for affordable timepieces and start filling these pages with Rolex and Patek Philippe (although if anyone at any of the high-end watchmakers wants to a feature, contact me and I'll be all over it). That cheapness thing I do isn't a schtick, it's a way of life. I just want to cast a wider net. I'm still very much a fan of microbrands, I love a good bargain, and I will always seek watches that punch above their weight, but there is some mighty cool stuff north of that $1,000 price point, and I see no reason not to review them here.

You may have noticed that I have already abandoned the "Pro/Con/Sum" section at the end of the reviews. I stole this from Car Magazine. They used to have an irreverent monthly round up of every car offered for sale in the UK called "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly." (One of my favorites was for the 1985 Subaru XT: "For: Distinctive, Against: But so is wearing a fez.") My observations weren't nearly nearly as clever as theirs and it was starting to feel forced. Likewise, the coveted Time Bum Seal of Approval is no more. These gimmicks were nice for a while, but they were gimmicks nonetheless. Best to move on.

Finally, I have disabled the comments section. It's not that I don't care what you think, I really do! I'm just tired of weeding out spam links. A very small percentage of readers comment, and the longest exchanges were the most juvenile. It's just not worth it. Still, I want your feedback, and if you send me an email, I will be happy to respond. Did I get something wrong? Do you disagree with my opinion? Do you have a question or idea? Please let me know.

So there we have it: a new year, a fresh look, and a wider range of content. I hope you enjoy it.

Sometimes life does not proceed in the order you expected. For example, the Boston & Stewill Tourer. In 2015, British microbrand Boston & Stewill launched their first watch, the Tourer II. They had planned the Tourer before its sequel, but they deemed it too expensive for their debut product and went with the more affordable watch instead. The Tourer II was a great success, so now they are back on Kickstarter with their more ambitious model.

Like the Tourer II, the Tourer takes its cues from vintage sports cars, most evidently in the instrument style dial and the small seconds dial shaped like a Bugatti’s radiator grille. Unlike the first watch, this one will be Swiss Made and house a 27-jewel ETA 2895-2 automatic with a 28,800 bph sweep and a custom engraved rotor.

Two models are offered: a black dial with white hands and red accents, and a white dial with cobalt blue hands and accents. They are 42mm wide and 11.7mm thick with 22mm lugs. Both watches are feature domed sapphire crystals, mineral display case backs, and 22mm perforated leather rally straps with contrasting stitching in the accent color and push-button deployment clasps. Water resistance is 50m.

Early bird pricing starts at $390 USD, which is not too shabby for a watch with this movement, and even better when you consider the anticipated full list price will be about $789. They expect to be ready to ship by July 2017.

For more information or to place your order, see the Boston & Stewill Tourer II Kickstarter page.

Article and photos by Guest Bum, John Zanatta

Sequels. Rarely do they live up to the excitement and gusto of the original. There are of course a few exceptions to this (see Empire Strikes Back, The Dark Knight, and Godfather Part II). Sadly, for the most part, you’re left disappointed (see Spiderman 3, Batman and Robin, and Godfather Part III). A successful sequel requires a special twist to out-shine the original; something to make it not just an extension of the original but a stand-alone event. Welcome to How to Modify a Watch – The Moflake Returns.

As some of you may remember, the Time Bum graciously invited me to his space on the interwebs to share how anyone can modify a watch using common household items. The Moflake was born.

Now 2 years older and 2 years “wiser,” the world has continued to evolve. Chris/DocVail, the Moflake’s original owner, has continued to make new watches, and he even launched a second brand (see http://www.janistrading.com/ for all of Chris’s watches). The TimeBum is marching on. He’s continued to delivering relevant content in the affordable watch world. Me? I’ve upgraded my tools, taken on many crazy projects, and a little over a year ago I decided to challenge myself to make my own dials. And not just any dial, but gilt-relief dials; the likes found in many vintage watches (including vintage Rolex Submariners) and the modern MKII Kingston and Key West. The beauty of a gilt-relief dial is that they don’t use ink to print the text and markers. A negative space is left in the dial paint allowing the bare brass from the dial plate to show through. Not only is it a beautiful gold color, but it reflects light too.

It’s pretty easy to start doing this at home. It requires only a few items. You will need Testors clear waterslide decals, Testors setting solution, Q Tips, an ink-jet printer, some computer software (I use MS Paint and Photoshop), cardboard, clear spray paint, an Xacto knife, finger cots (or rubber gloves), and an old dial to be your willing sacrifice.

First, decide on what style of watch you’re making. With the Moflake already being established, I only want to make a modest update. A good friend, DH (@dirtyharrie on Instagram) hunted down a beautiful Canadian Tudor Milsub. Instead of the traditional square markers paired with snowflake hands, it has the more traditional Submariner dial layout. This is the direction I’m going to take the Moflake. Use your choice of software to layout your design. Use white for the details where you want the brass plate to show through. This is the negative-relief. Ink-jet printers don’t print white. The white spaces will allow the brass dial plate to show through the decal.

Print out several dials. I print at 1200 dpi which is basically the max most inkjet printers can achieve. You will want multiple dials in case one misprints, gets damaged, or you want to start over. WUS user Svorkoetter is a person I consulted with on how to best make water-slide decal dials. He made himself one using a Vostok as a project base. I’ll be using the same, 2 layer method he does. Once your dials are printed, use the Xacto knife to cut them out of the decal sheet. I cut mine out in squares leaving room around the actual dial. This is done so you can clear coat the dials without sealing the decal to the paper backing. I use Krylon Clear Glaze to seal the ink to the decal.

Now that the decals are prepped, let’s begin prepping the dial. Find a donor dial that you will be using. Put small drops of paint on the dial feet, and touch the dial feet to a piece of cardboard. No punch pin holes in the cardboard. Set the dial feet into the pin holes. This will hold your dial in place. Make 2 of these cardboard holders. Mark 3-6-9 and 12 o'clock for your reference points on one of the pieces. This will be your template for applying the dial. The second holder will be used to keep the dial in place while you sand off the printing. I use 300 grit paper to remove all the paint and printing. Then I use 500, 1000, and 1500 to polish the plate. I then polish the dial with Brasso to remove any dust. Once you have your shiny dial plate, you will want to seal it with a thin layer of clear coat just like the decals. Brass can tarnish, and this will prevent you from having troubles with your dial in the future.

Let your dial and decals cure overnight. The next day you can begin to cut the dials out for application (scissors are fine). Be very careful not to touch the dial face with your skin. I wear finger cots, but rubber gloves (non-powdered) will also work. You don’t want a fingerprint on your beautiful new dial.

Place your polished dial into your template marked with 3-6-9-12. You will need a small cup of water, Q tip, paper towel, setting solution and one of your decals.

Dip the decal into the water. Let it sit in the water for 5 seconds. Remove it and set it face up on the paper towel. After approximately 30 seconds, quickly dip the decal one more time. You should then be able to slide it around on the paper backing. Set it back down on the paper towel, and dip the top of your Q tip into the setting solution. Wipe a thin layer of solution on the polished dial. Now begin to slip the decal off the backing and onto the dial. I start at 3, hold the dial in place with one hand, and slide the backing off with the other. Align the dial with the markings on your cardboard template. Now use a damp Q tip to push any bubbles underneath the decal out so the decal is smooth. Place this dial into a covered container and let cure for a minimum of 1 hour. Once it has cured, repeat this process with the second decal layer right on top of the first.

Once you have both layers applied and cured, you can choose to add another layer of clear coat. Please keep in mind that every layer of decal and clear coat adds thickness. I find making no date dials works best because you can remove the date disk and dial spacer to allow for the slightly thicker dial. After you choose to clear coat again or not, test fit the dial in your case. Then, using the Xacto knife, cut out the whole in the center of the dial where the hands fit.

Now that your dial has cured, you will need to lume it. I’m not going to do a step by step process on this, but here are a few pointers. 1) Use magnification. 2) A medium oiler is good size for lume application. 3) Practice on junk dials first. There are several videos online about luming dials. They’re well worth the time to review.

The dial is complete and lumed along with the hands. What’s left? Now you put it all back together, and wear the heck out of it. Roll credits…

It's no secret that The Time Bum is a fan of Sujain Krishnan's Melbourne Watch Company. When I reviewed the Flinders in 2014, I called it "an impressive watch from a talented newcomer." Three years later, Sujain is no longer a newcomer, Melbourne Watch is a well-established brand, and the line consists of 8 distinct models. For this review, Sujain loaned me two new and very different watches, the Collins and the Sorrento.

Melbourne Watch Co. Sorrento and Collins

The Collins

The Collins is named for Melbourne's tony Collins Street, so it is appropriately a traditional men's dress watch, mid-sized and slim, with a clean, simple layout of polished baton markers and dauphine hands. The review sample is a three-hand Miyota 9015 automatic, the specifications of which should be familiar to micro brand fans: 24 jewels, 28.8k bph, 40+ hour power reserve. The company also offer a slightly sportier moon phase model running a Miyota 6P80 quartz.

It is a quietly attractive watch. The stainless steel case is just 38mm wide, which in The Time Bum's humble opinion, is about as large as a dress watch needs to be. I know 40mm seems to be the new standard, and I've owned a few myself, but while I have no reservations about wearing them with a suit, I will always reach for a smaller watch for strictly formal occasions. The Collins fits the bill perfectly, slipping discreetly under your cuff, and presenting itself with just the glint off its polished case and the shimmer of its dark blue sunray dial. Overall height is just a touch under 10mm (9.7mm to be precise). The case has flat sides, but a step at the bezel and a bevel on the back make it appear even slimmer.

As I've seen Melbourne's other watches, Sujain sweats the details like the applied and polished dots that top each marker, the beveled date window frame, and the serif typeface on the white-on-black date wheel that coordinates with that of the company's logo and fancy script model name. Of course, the watch sports the "M" tail on its second hand. A display case back shows the neatly finished movement including Geneva striped bridges and a signed rotor with a frosted edge.

Given its elegant appearance, the Collins is a tougher than you might think. It is rated for 50m water resistance, which should be more than sufficient for its intended use. A flat sapphire crystal provides high scratch resists. Its knobby, signed crown is significantly larger than that of many other similarly sized dress watches. I wouldn't call it disproportionate, but I would have preferred a lower profile and a finer coin edge.

There was no doubt the Collins would fit me well. My 6.5" wrist happily accommodated this modestly sized piece. The 18mm navy blue strap is padded alligator print leather terminating in an attractive signed buckle. It's mighty stiff out of the box, and the padding impedes its flexibility, so it will likely take a few week of wear before you find it truly comfortable.

In the end, the Collins is a lovely watch that suffers from its conservatism. It has little wrong with it, but its $509 USD price tag puts it in a crowded field of competitors.

The Sorrento

Now, this watch certainly does not suffer from over-familiarity. A dress-diver with a uniquely Melbourne character, the Sorrento features a multi-layer ceramic dial and wave-textured bezel but pretty as it is, the watch does not skimp of seaworthiness as evidenced by its 200m water resistance rating, screw down crown, and 120-click unidirectional bezel. Like the Collins, the Sorrento also packs a Miyota 9015, but in a very different package.

The stainless steel case is a fairly standard size, 42mm wide and 50mm long, but its 14mm height makes it seriously chunky. Touring the case, you will find that there is quite a lot going on here to break it up and make things more interesting. Upper surfaces are brushed north-south excepts for the polished bezel, crown, and center links. Long crown guards follow the curve of the barrel, minimizing their presence while simultaneously bulking up the case. A tall, polished bezel and the bright edge of the case back frame vertically brushed case sides. A beautifully stamped diving helmet on the case back underscores the Sorrento's deep sea aspirations. Polished surfaces may dress it up a bit, but it is an unquestionably aggressive case.

The testosterone-laden case makes an intriguing platform for the Sorrento's other, less conventional elements. Let's start with a bezel that is groovy in the most literal sense of the word. I do wonder what it might be like to clean if anything were to get into those tiny furrows, but it looks amazing. All of the markers are inlaid except for the one raised lume pearl at top center.

Pleasing as it may be, the design does compromise its utility as a timer. Even in daylight, I found it hard to differentiate the pip from the rest at a glance, and at night, the pip's glow is rather dim. Although the bezel has a knobby grip, good action, and only minimal play, I suspect the Sorrento will not see much diveing duty.

In contrast to the bezel, the dial is as practical as it is attractive. Fans of the Melbourne Portsea will instantly recognize its ceramic construction and striated texture. A printed chapter index on the outermost ring steps down to a second ring of applied and polished markers. Bars at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock float over the bottommost section, and diminutive dots represent the remainder. All are framed and filled with lume. Heavy, tapered hands are brushed with a polished and lumed center channel. Of course, the second hand has an M tail. It's a uniquely attractive layout offering great depth and detail.

The Sorrento’s 3-link bracelet is 22mm at its solid end links, tapering to a 20mm flip-lock clasp with a push-button release. Single-ended, threaded pins hold it together. There is a bit more play in the links than I might normally like, but it is a quality piece nonetheless. My favorite part is the quick release feature. Just a pinch and the end links come free – no tools, no scratched lugs. I'd like to see more brands adopt this feature.

I had no problem parking the Sorrento on my 6.5" wrist, but this is a big watch leaning more to the dive side of the dress-diver equation, and that presents a curious conundrum. How would you wear the watch? I managed it with a jacket and tie, but that tall case requires a generous shirt cuff to accommodate it. The watch is just a shade too large to be a really "dressy" dress diver, but as noted above, it not entirely practical as a tool watch either. I'd have to split the difference and call it a sports watch. Many will find it too much for the office, and it lacks the undersea visibility required of a proper dive watch, but it would be an excellent weekend companion for adventures not requiring an oxygen tank. I only wish it had a lower profile as that would have better suited its dressed-up design, making it far more versatile.

The Sorrento sits on the high side of the affordable microbrand spectrum. Quality construction and numerous unique design features go far to justify its $849 price; however, I suspect Bum readers will be much happier paying the current $597 while it is on sale.

For more information to make a purchase, see http://www.melbournewatch.com.au/. ◆

Designing a dress watch can be a difficult prospect. Every style of watch has accepted patterns and customer expectations, but those of dress watches may be the trickiest to navigate. We want them to be modestly sized, but not unfashionably small. They need some flash, but not vulgar excess. They should be simple, but not sparse; understated, but not boring. Following all the rules often leads to a formulaic, uninspiring design that is quickly lost in a sea of similar styles, but if a designer is willing to sweat the details, they can create a traditional timepiece that retains its own unique character.

Which brings me to the TravisLeon Heirloom. When I first previewed the watch, I noted its stately layout, quality components, and Eisenhower-era aesthetic. It looked promising, but it all comes down to detail and execution, and to evaluate that, you need to have the watch in hand. For this review, TravisLeon sent a PVD rose gold model with a white enamel dial and brown, crocodile print leather strap, which sells for $399. A black dial is also offered, as are black and white steel finished models for $379.

Basic specifications are exactly what I like to see in this range. A 2mm thick, double domed sapphire crystal and a 24 jewel Miyota 9015 automatic movement add value. The 9015 has become the microbrand go-to alternative to the similar, but pricier, Swiss ETA 2824-2. The round stainless steel case is 40mm wide, 46mm long, and 10mm thick; squarely within the mid-size parameters most buyers demand. Personally, I'd prefer a more traditional 38mm size, but I can't knock TravisLeon for following the trend. Water resistance is a splash-proof 30m, on par for a dress watch.

The case has flat sides and long lugs that arc over your wrist for a closer fit. It is polished except for radial brushing on the tops of the lugs that adds a bit of extra dimension to set off the shiny bezel. Its coin edged crown is signed and properly proportioned. Six screws secure a display case back offering a view of the movement and custom rotor. I have no issues with exhibition windows as a whole, but increasingly I wonder if they really add anything. The 9015 is properly finished and sports Geneva stripes, but you won't find any polished bits or blued screws, and the plated rotor on this sample bore an unsightly smudge. That last bit is a simple quality control matter that would be handled with an exchange, but a nicely illustrated solid case back would have eliminated this particular headache and could have been more attractive as well.

Turning our attention to the white enamel dial reveals a host of applied, polished, rose gold features. Long bars mark the hours, doubled at 12, 3, 6, and 9 to define the quadrants. The minute index is comprised of raised dots. Polished and faceted dauphine hands graze their markers. The logo and date window are also gold. Finely printed dial text in lightweight sans-serif and classical script cap it off. It is simple, elegant, and shows remarkable attention to detail. The minute index is particularly clever.

The gold Heirloom arrives on a lightly padded 20mm strap. I found it quite comfortable and the satin finish and matching stitching complemented the white and gold watch. It secures with a signed butterfly deployant clasp. I know people love them, but I just don't understand their appeal. They are awkward to close and add unnecessary thickness to the underside of the strap, which is the exact opposite of what you want in a dress watch. It is a well-made clasp, but I would swap it for a strap with a simple pin buckle.

Altogether, the TravisLeon Heirloom is a lovely piece. Through a deft combination of traditional styling and thoughtful detailing the watch punches above its weight and is well worth the money, even more so now that when you can get 30% and free shipping (use code TAKE30). See TravisLeon.com. ⬩

Remember last May, when I was so excited about the Manchester Watch Works Equinox? If not, then check out my review of the prototype. I fell in love its sweet, 1970's style could not wait for its release. Months came and went, Manchester launched other projects, and the Equinox got one more round of tinkering, but at long last, the Equinox is available for pre-order on Kickstarter. The watch is better than ever, now with a new automatic movement and a quartz chronograph option as well.

Outwardly, the automatic is nearly identical to the prototype. It retains the gorgeous SuperLuminova "eyeball" dial, sapphire crystal, and 100m water resistance. The 37x43mm rectangular case is now brushed north-south instead of in a radial pattern but it is otherwise unchanged. The real action is inside, where an STP 1-11 replaces the prototype's Seiko NH35. The new Swiss unit has 26 jewels, a 44 hour power reserve, and 28.8k bph beat rate. Pre-orders start at $220, which is remarkably cheap for these specs.

Chronograph fans may like the second option, the single-register Speed Tier. The watch packs a 10 jewel, Swiss Ronda 5010.B quartz with a 54-month battery, center stop second, and 30 minute / 12 hour counter. I questioned the crown size on the three-hand prototype, but the addotoon of chrono buttens balances it out, obviating that concern. Pre-order prices start at a dirt-cheap $200.

I felt the Equinox would look perfect on a bracelet, and they apparently agreed. The watch will ship with both a carbon fiber patterned leather strap and a slick, H-link bracelet.

If you are a fan of 1970's vintage waches, or if you just want a distinctive, high quality watch for a great price, you should check out the Equinox. See more at the Manchester Watch Works Kickstarter page.

Straton Watch Company will add a new model to their line of racing chronographs. Like the Vintage Driver and the Curve-Chrono before it, the Syncro combines quality movements with early 1970’s styling to create an exciting, modern race timer. For those of us who like to match our accessories, Straton is also selling weekend bags with coordinating accents. Preorders for the watches and bags go live on Kickstarter today.

I’ve written about Straton before and I was particularly impressed with the Curve-Chrono. The Syncro is a new watch from the ground up, but it shares some of the Curve-Chrono’s most appealing traits like a barrel case, bold colors, and a wide array of choices. Stratton offers five basic color schemes, two sizes (44mm or 40mm), two movements (Seiko NE88 automatic or VK64 MecaQuartz), two bezels (checkered or dive timer), date or no date, and several NATOs (2 nylon in addition to the standard mesh bracelet or leather rally strap).

I love the sub dials’ oblong shapes and spidery, psychedelic markers. There is some vintage dive watch influence at work here too, most notably in the domed sapphire bezel and 200M water resistance. Of course, the watch has a sapphire crystal and SuperLuminova as well. Prices start at $320 USD or the VK64 and $702 USD for the NE88; approximately 40% off the expected list price.

The Straton Weekender Bag will be available in two styles: leather and a leather/canvas mix. Both bags measure 55x33x24cm and feature striped accents to match the racing livery styles available for the watch. Pre-order pricing starts at $299 USD.

For more information see Straton Watch Company and the Synchro Kickstarter page. ⬩

Photos courtesy of Straton Watch Co.

Let's just jump right to the best part: the DuFrane Bergstrom has a hand winding, Swiss made mechanical movement. It's not hard to find affordable watches with quality automatic movements. Indeed, the microbrand world is teeming with Miyota 9015s, Seiko NH35s, and their assorted variants, but with the exception of the occasional SeaGull ST-19 chronograph, hand-crankers are mighty thin on the ground. When I saw that the Bergstrom also had a reasonable size and a distinctive look, I knew I had to give it a try. DuFrane sent a blasted case, horizon dial loaner for this review.

Steven Lee, the man behind the DuFrane brand, is a former pilot and a resident of Austin, Texas. Both of these traits are reflected in the Bergstrom. The watchmaking industry being what it is, he could not manufacture his watches locally. The movement is Swiss, and Ohio's Weigand Custom Watch (of Lüm Tec fame) handles production and testing, but Stephen does his best to infuse his watch with some Austin flavor. The watch takes its name from Captain John August Earl Bergstrom, the first Austin native killed in World War Two, for whom Austin International Airport is named. Austin's own Noah Marion Quality Goods creates the straps and "watch wallets."

That wallet is the first thing you encounter when you open up your package. It is made of undyed vegetable-tanned leather, folded into an envelope and secured with a screwed-in button stud. Inside are two lug bar wrenches, a warranty card, a polishing cloth, and your watch and an extra strap tucked into the pockets behind. It is a delightful little package, and I like the fact that it is relatively flat, so if you use it as a travel case, it will take up less room in your carry-on.

The Bergstrom's proportions are excellent. Measuring 41.5mm wide and 51mm long, it offers more than sufficient presence without needless bulk. Better still it is a trim 11mm thick, making it an easy fit under a buttoned shirt cuff. As a smaller-wristed fellow (6.5"), I appreciate this. Water resistance is 50m; appropriate for most daily activities short of prolonged submersion.

There is little doubt that the Bergstrom is a tool watch, but with a touch of finesse. Straight lugs with screw bars are tempered with curved ends. A fixed, coin edged bezel adds some vintage charm to the slab-sided cylindrical case. The signed, gear-toothed crown is deeply grooved but has a rounded edge, and in welcome contrast to many other sports and tool watches, it is not oversized. Surface options include sandblasted steel or a PVD antique bronze. A domed sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating caps it off.

Flipping it over, you will discover the aforementioned hand-cranker. All movements may be described as the heart of a watch, but sometimes, they can also provide a soul. The ETA 6498-1 is a 17 jewel Unitas design originally used in pocket watches. It is a workmanlike movement. There are no Geneva stripes on the bridge, no blued screws, no polishing or plating, just the Dufrane name engraved on the ratchet wheel. Its 18k bph vibration rate may sound painfully low to those of us accustomed to the 21.6k and 28.8k automatics found in most affordable mechanicals, but what the unit gives up in smoothness, it gains in efficiency, posting a 46-hour power reserve. The 6498-1 isn't sexy, but it is a venerable old engine, and as such, it seems perfectly suited to the Bergstrom.

The dial also offers a throwback feel. Its squelette hands and stylized, serif text, would look right at home on an early 20th-century pocket watch. The DuFrane logo is a neat bit of design in itself, suggesting an hour glass in the negative space between its white brackets. It replaces the 12 on the dial, allowing some breathing room around the brand name. The hands and numerals glow with C3 SuperLuminova.

Perhaps the most distinctive element on the dial is the small seconds counter. Buyers have two options here: basic black or a sky/land horizon dial like the one pictured. Both have an orange hand. In my small sampling of opinion, the horizon proved intensely polarizing. Personally, I like it. There is nothing wrong with the plain black version. It is quite attractive and certainly the safer choice; however, the horizon dial is unique to the Bergstrom, and that alone is reason to choose it.

Buyers have a choice of 22mm leather straps. The review sample came with natural leather and blue suede. Both are handmade, showing meticulous craftsmanship in the cuts and stitching. The natural strap has two steel keepers to match the case and a signed buckle. It is the distinctive pale tan color of new, undyed vegetable-tanned leather that should eventually darken into a mellow caramel. It is a single layer of leather, unpadded and unlined, so it presents a low profile in keeping with the watch head's slim proportions. The blue suede is similarly constructed but with a single leather keeper. It proved to be a pleasant complement to the horizon's blue hemisphere.

Strap changes require the two supplied hex tools. Ah, dual headed screw bars, the bane of my existence. I have enough trouble using a single hand tool without scratching my cases, I don't need the additional challenge of using two at once. That said, I managed these without incident. The bars themselves are generously sized as are the hex-shaped depressions, allowing the tools to seat easily and firmly.

At $875 for the blasted case and $950 for the PVD, the Bergstrom does not come cheap, but it is a thoroughly enjoyable watch with throwback charm and some thoughtful extras. For more information see DuFraneWatches.com.

When I previewed the Zelos Hammerhead, I recommended it without hesitation based on my many positive experiences with their products. Since then, I've been able to handle two Hammerheads. The first was a bronze model displayed at the Metro DC Microbrand Meetup, and the second was stainless steel version featured in this review. Both watches had meteorite dials. These hands-on experiences validated my early enthusiasm. The Hammerhead is a slick, aggressive watch that delivers excellent value for the money.

From the very beginning, Zelos has taken a distinctive approach characterized by sculpted cases, intricate multi-layered dials, and uncommon combinations of finishes, materials, and surface details. The Hammerhead continues on this path, starting with a 44mm faceted cushion case that is 14.5mm thick, towering to 17.5mm when you include the tall, double-domed and AR coated sapphire crystal. The eight-sided case is deceptively complex. A series of sheer angles on the case sides and lugs yields 24 distinct faces that surround the case, 26 if you include the top surface and case back. These are further distinguished with a combination of finishes, starting with a circular brushing on top, then polished on the upper half of the sides, and again brushed on the lower section.

The sequence continues on the chiseled link bracelet where the top surfaces are brushed while the sides and angular cuts are polished, creating a delightful glittering effect reminiscent of certain 1970's vintage Seiko bracelets. The bracelet is a quality piece, with solid, fitted end links, single-headed screw pins, and a signed, push-button diver's clasp with a ratcheting wetsuit extension. The clasp is great, and at just over 7mm thick, a good match for the bracelet. My only quibble is that it lacks micro adjustments. Of course, one could use the ratchet for fine tuning the size, but it is a trade-off.

The Hammerhead is a chunky beast, but integrated lugs keep the length to a very manageable 49mm. As a result, the watch comes off smaller than you might expect and I had no issues wearing it on my 6.5" wrist. It is certainly thick, but not at all out of line for a dive watch. All that mass sets high expectations for seaworthiness so it should come as no surprise that the Hammerhead delivers a 1000m rating; however, it is interesting to note that it does not have a helium release valve. These have become somewhat faddish as of late, but unless you are a saturation diver in a mixed-gas environment, you won't miss it (and probably not even then).

In keeping with the rest of the watch, the crown and bezel are generously proportioned. The bezel is ringed with fat cogs. It rises high over the case and moves through its 120-click rotation without back play. The meteorite model has a dark gray ceramic insert with an engraved and lume-filled dive timer. This is a big plus in my book, greatly improving both utility and the attractiveness. A 12-sided polished ring surrounding the crystal is a subtle touch of brightwork.

I appreciate the recessed crown at 4 o'clock. It's massive size, and deep grooves provide for easy operation, but it would have looked like an ungainly appendage had it been simply tacked onto the outer surface. Instead, it tucks away when screwed down, protruding only slightly beyond the case without upsetting its overall proportions.

With all of the effort on the case, Zelos did not neglect the dial. A BWG9 treated outer ring contains the minute index. Angular applied and polished hour markers rise high above and taper to meet the primary dial layer. This surface has a sunburst effect on the solid color versions, but the meteorite dial is something else entirely, a shimmering graphite gray with a unique cross-hatch texture. I have seen other meteorite watches and noticed that the color and reflection can obscure steel elements, often making the watch hard to read. In this case, a generous application of C3 SuperLuminova on the markers and semi-skeletonized bar hands provides more than ample contrast. The bright yellow, paddle tipped second hand doesn't hurt either. There is no extraneous text on the dial, only an applied "Z" logo on to and a discreet "1000M." A white-on-black date window partially displaces the marker at 6 o'clock. It is a beautiful dial that is enhanced by its exotic material, but the clean, multidimensional layout is equally appealing in its solid color, sunray variants.

Now, all of that just covers the look in daylight. For some real fun, charge up the lume, turn out the lights, and enjoy the show. The hands, markers, index, bezel, and crown all pop to life for a stunning effect.

A watch called "Hammerhead" must have its namesake somewhere. You will find not one, but two of the fierce beasts engraved on the case back. Behind it, is the tried and true Seiko NH35 automatic (24 jewels, 21.6k bph). It isn't the sexiest, but it is sturdy, reliable, easily repaired, and relatively inexpensive. Overall, a solid choice for a sport watch.

Zelos always includes a little something extra with their watches; with the Hammerhead, they deliver several. Watches arrive in a leather-trimmed, four and a half pocket, canvas watch roll containing a strap tool, warranty card, a gray canvas strap, and a tan leather strap. The tool is typical of the "free gift" variety; kind of short and tipped with a fork at one end and a pin at the other. The fork comes in handy, but in the absence of drilled lugs, the pin does not. I rather wish there was a screwdriver for the links instead.

Both straps were very nice, and they include a signed Zelos buckle as well. The warm tan color of the leather is a pleasant contrast to the cold silver and gray in the watch head. I like the look of the gray canvas as well. Others criticized the lack of contrast and declared the grays on the dial, bezel, and strap to be uncomfortably close but short of a match. Now, I think I have a pretty good eye for color and I'm kind of a stickler for that sort of thing, but I had no such complaint. Still, the canvas is just one of three options, so even if it is not your favorite, you can't argue with a free strap.

The Hammerhead starts a $649 for a black dial, black bezel model, which is a good price for a watch of this caliber, even without the extra goodies. Damascus bezel and meteorite dial versions sell for $849 and are perilously close to selling out. All the bronze case watches are long gone. For more information or the order you own (and I suggest you act quickly), visit ZelosWatches.com. ⬩

If you want to impress a watch novice, show them a skeleton watch. As a concept, I must admit, they are pretty cool. It is enlightening to see all of the intricate components of a mechanical movement working in concert. Since the movement is the star of the show, it is almost always dressed for the occasion, decked out in its Sunday best, all polished and plated, blued and engraved. If I am at dinner with my fellow watch nerds, our collections strewed about the table, the wait staff will generally ignore the mess - unless one of us has a skeleton watch, at which point the are suddenly full of praise and questions. Skeletons are remarkably popular and for many, they are the gateway into the watch hobby. I just don't like them.

It's a style thing, really. Skeleton watches tend to be a bit too ornate for my taste. All that gold and gingerbread puts me off. Many rely on the exposed movement to carry the design and ignore the rest of the watch. Legibility often suffers. Movements with abundant open spaces that look cool when you hold them in your hand become ugly freckle and arm hair frames when placed on the wrist. There are exceptions, of course. Wilk Watchworks makes some real beauties and I swooned over the Maki and its sinister black ETA 6497. Still, as of today, I do not have a single skeleton in my collection. They are not watches I would ever seek out, so imagine my surprise when Thomas Earnshaw sent me not one, but three skeleton watches to review: the Bauer Shadow Skeleton Mechanical, the Longitude Skeleton Mechanical, and the Longitude Shadow Automatic. This was going to be a challenge.

The three watches reviewed here are separate models but they share more than a few commonalities. Each of their stainless steel cases is available in a variety of different finishes; the samples were all IP rose gold. All have the Earnshaw name engraved on the side. Water resistance is 50m, which is more than ample for a dress watch. The straps are stiff, crocodile print leather, 22mm wide tapering to a 20mm signed buckle that mimics the double E logo. Thomas Earnshaw does not list the movements' manufacturers or country of origin, but given the "Made in China" leads me to believe they are Chinese, probably Hangzhou.

The Bauer Shadow Skeleton Mechanical (ES 8061) is a two-hander with a domed mineral crystal, bun-shaped crown, faceted dauphine hands, and bar markers dressed up by the double E logo at 12 and a Roman 6. It is the smallest of the three, measuring 42mm wide and 11.5mm thick, and also the most reserved. With the markers on an outer ring and only the brand name applied to the dial, the Bauer presents an uncluttered face. The transparent dial is tinted brown and goes translucent when the light catches it just so. The resulting color wash tones down out the movement's decoration, hence the "Shadow" designation.

It works to the extent that it mutes the movement's brightwork and improves contrast for better readability; however, the trade-off is that you give up some of the elements can make a skeleton watch appealing. For example, an open view normally lets you see the escapement wheel at work, but you have to squint to see it on the Bauer. The movement is really more of a backdrop on this watch, and while you might think that would be a good thing for someone like me, I found it bland and uninspiring. I could not tell what material the dial was made of, but the promotional materials described it as a "film" and the frosted effect looks plastic and not at all appealing.

The Longitude Skeleton Mechanical's (ES-8062) 44mm case is a full size larger than the Bauer's, but only a half millimeter thicker. It features a fluted onion crown, Breguet-style hands, a double E tailed second hand, and a clear view of the hand winding movement through its two flat, sapphire coated, mineral crystals. An open framework rings the face, forming hour markers. It is dominated by oversized rose gold Roman numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9.

To my eye, this is the least appealing of the three review samples. The elements are all too large and the overall layout would be better suited to a mantle clock than a wristwatch. The hands have two tiny lume dots of dubious value. The glow is weak and short-lived, and because the hands are so similar in length, it is nearly impossible to discern which is which in the dark. Nothing about this watch worked for me. It even failed as a timekeeper because the hour hand was misaligned.

Like the Longitude Skeleton Mechanical, the Longitude Shadow Automatic (ES-8063) has a 44mm case and Breguet hands. It also features a translucent dial and faceted markers like the Bauer. This watch is most complicated of the three, including a day/night indicator, second time zone, and a prominently displayed flywheel. An applied brand name at 3 o'clock fills the fourth quadrant. It is a busy yet balanced dial. Between the tinted dial and the other elements occupying its face, the movement is relegated to little more than a peek. Out back, the display window is decorated with gold stripes, further downplaying the movement although you do get a good view of the plated and engraved rotor.

Oddly, I found this last watch to be the most appealing of the three. Yes, it is still gaudy, and a day/night indicator is perhaps the least useful complication imaginable, but at a glance, the elements are in balance, nothing is oversized, and the mechanical background is better integrated into the overall design than it is on the Bauer, where it must carry the whole show. Would I buy it for myself? No, I would not.

I said at the outset that these watches are not my style, so it should come as no shock that they didn't win me over. That said, I am sure many of my readers are feeling quite the opposite, liking what they see, and wondering if the Thomas Earnshaw watches are worth the price. My answer to that is "maybe." They have not yet released the two Longitude models reviewed here, but the Bauer is on the Thomas-Earnshaw.com for £470 ($587 USD). That is mighty steep for an unidentified movement and plastic-looking dial; however, these watches are frequently discounted. Previous Bauer models sell for less than half of their list price at online retailers. I found one on sale for $139, which is far more palatable. If you really like the look of a Thomas Earnshaw skeleton, take your time and shop around. As for me, I'm keeping my skeletons in the closet. ⬩

Article by Guest Bum GUTuna, photos by The Time Bum.

My tumultuous affair with the Vapaus Veli, the debut project from Vapaus Watches, began in May of 2015. Brothers Oliver and Rudi Laing revealed their concept for the Veli on the Watch Concepts & Designs forum on Watchuseek and sought feedback. Their stated purpose: “The design, and the brand, are inspired by the stunning watches of the 1940s-1950s, with their textured yet minimal dials, domed crystals, polished metal, and beautifully engineered movements.” It was love at first sight. Vapaus, which means “freedom” in Finnish, had made an early statement in the nascent trend in hand-wind watches. Their design was a 38mm case in highly polished 316L stainless steel. Wire lugs extending from the case. A total thickness of under 10mm! A design that effectively recalled the beautiful Peseux-driven watches of that earlier era.

The brothers presented four colors of dial: space black, ice white, slate grey, and deep blue. The dials would come with the owner’s choice of two possible handsets. The Veli 1950 with classic alpha hands or the Veli 2050 with Vapaus’ signature syringe hands. I followed the debate for the next year between devotees of each handset, preferring the updated hands of the 2050. I felt they captured the spirit of those vintage designs in contemporary form.

The movement that would drive the watch took the longest to define. Vapaus settled on the Sellita SW215-1 (Elaboré grade) hand-wound pulsing along at 28,800bph. My initial enthusiasm for the project crashed. The designers were dedicated to a Swiss made watch, and I was concerned that paying the premium for a Swiss movement would push the offering price too high and not offer good value. And the initial descriptions of the retail price seemed to confirm my fears. A design I loved, but would it be worth a retail price of £699 ($875)? Then, shortly before the project’s debut on Kickstarter, a politically-driven watch miracle! The citizens of Great Britain voted to leave the European Union sending the value of the British pound crashing versus my native currency, the US dollar. Down came the Kickstarter cost and I pledged for a Veli 2050 with the Deep Blue dial.

The arrival of the watch swung my feelings back toward my initial passion. The designers worked very hard to find the right high-domed sapphire crystal, correctly sensing it was the key to the entire design. This special highly-concave crystal combined with a slightly convex dial sends light splashing across the gorgeous blue dial in interesting ways. When the designers named the dial “Deep Blue” it was not hyperbole. The dial has a real depth of color that reaches a black at some angles and royal blue at others. The extra-long sweeping second hand overlaps the well-detailed indices with the fat part of the syringe minute hand just touching each hour index. Around the outer track, numerals in modernist font mark the seconds at each index. The entire dial ensemble is topped off by a bespoke color-matched date wheel…nice.

In a move that will please many dedicated watch lovers, Vapaus has eschewed a display case back in favor of a thinner profile and provided a graceful figure as custom case back art. The 20mm lugs bear a French calf leather strap with Vapaus signed buckle. The whole package arrives in a lacquered padded box bearing the Vapaus logo.

There is still part of me that wishes that Vapaus had opted for a Miyota hand-wound movement and kept the cost of the watch down. But this reviewer will readily admit that he values the Swiss made label far less than the great majority of watch lovers. And it is hard to argue with the overall result. This is a wonderful watch. Considering this is the debut watch from Vapaus, it makes the accomplishment even greater. It often takes a couple models for even the best microbrands to reach this level of refinement in design and execution. Perhaps more importantly, Vapaus accomplished what they set out to do. This is not a one for one copy of what a watch was in 1950. This is a contemporary watch that captures the spirit of what made those watches great.

The Vapaus Veli 1950 and 2050 can be purchased for £699 at vapaus.co ⬩

I finally got a Sinn.

I've been yearning for one of these ever since I attended a WatchBuys Road Show. WatchBuys.com specializes in German watches, and every year, they cart a roomful of watches from city to city, enticing watch nerds with their wares. I was smitten by Sinn, and while there are plenty of crave-worthy watches in their collection, the 103 St Acrylic was my favorite. Its $1740 price tag put it beyond my usual impulse-buy territory, so I dithered about it for a year or so, but ultimately, I could not resist the allure of this 1960's style, poor man's Breguet XX. So, now that it has joined the collection and has seen some healthy wrist time, I can tell you if it lived up to my expectations.

Sinn calls its 103 series "the traditional pilot's chronograph" and offers several variants and limited editions. Mine might be considered the value leader of the group: polished case, acrylic crystal, and leather strap. Unlike many aviation-inspired watches, it takes this function seriously, meeting or exceeding DIN standards for anti-magnetic shielding (4,800 A/m), water resistance (rated for 200m), and shock resistance (essentially, the equivalent of a drop to the floor). Far less common is its low-pressure resistant design that ensures the crystal won't pop out at high altitude.

The case is just 40mm wide and 47mm long, which is a huge advantage for a slightly-built fellow like me. It has small The lugs are broad and angular, dropping sharply away from the barrel to create a more natural fit over the wrist than its otherwise flat profile might suggest. It is 15.5mm thick from case back to the top of the dome, although it appears to be slimmer. About 3mm of that figure is just the crystal. Viewed in profile, a matte black coating masks the bezel, so your eye first registers the narrow, polished case sides that bridge the lugs. Below that is a shallow brushed concave lip. Finally, the case back falls away at a shallow angle so that the flat area is only about the size of a penny. With slab sides and a flat back, the 103 would look like stout, but the 103's sculpted case and varying finishes are trim and tailored. There is much an aspiring watch designer could learn from this case.

Inside, is a Valjoux 7750, a venerable Swiss cam-and-lever movement. I previously sampled this 25 jewel, automatic chronograph in the Huguenin Observer, and here I noticed the same smooth 28.8k bph sweep, firm engagement of its buttons, and crisp snap-back on reset. The 7750 features day and date wheels, and small seconds, 30 minute, and 12 hour registers. The large signed crown has an uncommonly extension and snaps into its positions with a firm pull so there is no hunting for the first or second position. Like the other functions, the date wheels set with a decidedly mechanical click.

I love the tall acrylic dome. Some would ask why. After all, people gladly pay a premium for sapphire Sinn makes a 103 St Sapphire, and it is not as if there is any shortage of sapphire crystal watches at or even well below the 103's price point. If given the option, why choose plastic? Well, for starters, it looks cool. I dig the warm, heavy look and crazy edge distortion. Nostalgia plays a role too. Plastic domes were the norm 50 years ago so they look right at home on a mid-century design. Also, while sapphire is impossible to beat for scratch resistance, and acrylic is soft enough to scratch just by looking at it funny, it wins on impact resistance, taking hits that would shatter sapphire. Finally, acrylic is cheaper, never a bad thing in the Time Bum's eyes.

I put my convictions to the test by damaging my watch in the first three days. For the life of me, I have no idea how or where I did it, but I looked down and saw a row of ugly scratches down the right side. When I had a moment, I pulled out some plastic restorer and a soft cotton cloth. I know most folks swear by Polywatch, but I have been using a 3-part system by Novus. First, I rubbed out the deep stuff with Heavy Scratch Remover, then applied Light Scratch Remover to polish, and finished it off with their Plastic Cleaner to remove any residue. Was it good as new? No. If you look very closely or employ a loupe you can see the deepest of the lot is still lurking just above the date window. Acrylic will inevitably pick up nicks and scratches over the years. You polish out most of them, minimize the worst, and chalk up the rest to character. I'm good with that.

As mentioned above, the bezel is flat black all around. Shallow grooves above the markers provide adequate grip. The markers are printed except for a lumed triangle. A close look reveals a half-height index and fine-lined numbers that alternate size (larger tens, smaller fives). The bezel is bi-directional and has no detents. This is standard for pilot's watches but I was surprised at how little resistance there was. That said, not once has the bezel slipped out of position, so I'd chalk this up as more of a feature than a flaw.

The dial is packed with information but still clearly legible. Due to its modest size, the sub dials occupy a good deal of real estate, reaching nearly to the center. Along with the day/date windows, they displace the numerals in their quadrants but don't truncate any. Dial text is limited to the Sinn name at 3 o'clock and "Autotmatik" in stylized script, wrapped over the hour register. No space is wasted; everything fits. A spear-tipped sweep hand and syringe hands finish the face with the proper vintage military flourish. Lume glow is excellent. The hands, markers, bezel triangle, and second hand tip all go green in the dark, offering easy readability even with just a modest charge from indoor lighting.

Sinn bracelets are top quality, but for a classic pilot, I wanted black leather and contrasting white stitching. I got exactly that on the 103, but the stock strap was just a tad long for me. Most standard straps are 70/115mm or something close to it. This one is 90/115mm. Folks with bigger wrists will appreciate it; however, I ended up with an awkwardly long tail, so I swapped it out for Hirsch buffalo leather that fits the same 20mm lugs and accepts the same signed, 18mm pin buckle.

The 103 is more expensive than most of the watches I typically review, but at $1740, it is still attainable and represents good value for the money. I've worn the Sinn 103 quite often over these past few months. I have not tested its undersea or high altitude capabilities, and although it is highly unlikely that I ever will, it is good to know that it can hack more than I will ever throw at it. On a more practical, day-to-day basis, I find that its modest size, sober presentation, and the touch of flash from its polished surfaces make it an easy choice for the office or nights out, while its general tool watch toughness and military bearing are perfectly appropriate for the weekends as well. Better still, being the Bum that I am, I still found a way to snag a bargain. Every year, WatchBuys sells its display pieces and other open-box watches at a handsome discount, so I was able to get this one for $1400. All this and a discount too? That makes The Bum a very happy man.

For more information, see WatchBuys.com. ⬩

I announced the Straton Syncro Kickstarter campaign a couple of weeks ago. Building on the success of the Curve-Chrono, Kyle Schut, (Straton's owner and dedicated Alfaisi) dug even deeper into 1970's racing chronograph design, to create a striking watch with an impressive selection of options. The press package was enough to convince me to jump onto Kickstarter as soon as it launched to place an order of my own. Now that I have three prototypes in hand, I can say with confidence that this was the right decision.

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Fans of the Curve-Chrono will find that much of what they loved about that model is also present in the Syncro. Both models have barrel-shaped cases, bold color schemes, two case sizes, and quartz or mechanical movements; however, the Syncro is not a Curve-Chrono facelift, but rather an all-new watch with a distinct personality.

Like its sibling, the Syncro has a barrel shaped case but with a conventional lug design instead of the Curve-Chrono's integrated lugs, making the Synchro's case appear rounder and less lozenge-shaped. A combination of brushed and polished surfaces adorn the case. The brushing is vertical on the sides and radiates outward on the top for an appropriately retro sunburst effect. The chronograph buttons and signed, screw-down crown are polished, as are the recesses in the bezel's square-toothed edge. A polished channel runs along the upper edges of the case, creating an eye-catching crease. It is a handsomely sporty case that harkens back to the late 60's/early 70's in all aspects but one: size.

40mm with dive bezel on left, 44mm with racing bezel on right

The Syncro is larger than the watches that inspired it, and slightly bigger than the Curve-Chrono as well. It is only a slight difference for the smaller model (40x46mm vs. 39.5x46.5mm), but it is significant for the larger one (44x49mm vs. 42x47mm). At 15mm thick, both Syncros have an extra 0.5mm on the previous model as well. That said, I did not find the Syncros to be overly large. The 44mm is certainly big, but it is just short enough lug-to-lug that it did not overwhelm my 6.5" wrist, and the broader case gives it a sleeker appearance than the stout and chunky 40mm. Still, the smaller version was by far, the better choice better for me. Both sizes found their way under my shirt cuffs, provided they were generously cut.

44mm Syncro

Buyers have their choice of Seiko movements: VK64 MechaQuartz hybrid or the 34 jewel, NE88 column wheel automatic. Those choosing the auto will enjoy a 28k bph vibration rate and a 45-hour power reserve, as well as 30-minutes and small seconds subdials. Buyers opting for the VK64 will get a quartz coupled to a mechanical chronograph module for 1/5th-second timing and a crisp fly-back reset, with 60-minutes and 24-hours registers. There is no wrong decision here as both are quality units; however, the price difference is significant. I love mechanical movements as much as the next guy, but the $400 premium for the automatic convinced me to go with the quartz. I am The Bum, after all.

The MecaQuartz models have solid case back engraved with a spiral design while the autos have the option for a sapphire display window. Neither case back strikes me as particularly special. The solid back's spiral design strikes me as just filler, and although the N88 does have a Geneva-striped and logo-emblazoned rotor, it is not a particularly fetching movement. A lackluster case back is hardly a deal breaker, but unlike the cool stamped alloy wheel designs on the Curve-Chrono, these fail to enhance the watch.

Now the front of the watch, that's a whole different story. This is where the Syncro really shines. There are few design elements that set my heart a flutter like a domed sapphire bezel and Straton gives you a choice of a dive or racing markers. The dive index marks minutes with the negative space in between large blocks. The racing version has a checkered design similar to early 70's Seiko rally bezels. Both look fantastic although I'd say the rally markers better reflect Straton's auto racing roots. I cannot rate the bezel function as the three prototypes did not have consistent action and all were bidirectional while the finished product will be unidirectional. I had no issue with the printing on the insert, but Kyle promises it will be even sharper in production.

40mm Syncro

The Syncro comes with a silver, black, or blue sunray dial under a domed, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal. Straton also offers a sinister black-on-black dial with matte finish registers in a PVD black case. There are some mighty appealing details here, like the faceted hands; the pop of bright orange in sweep hand and register needles; the applied "S" logo; even the optional black-on-silver date disc at 6 o'clock that coordinates so nicely with the polished bar markers and their lume-filled channels. Speaking of lume, C3 SuperLuminova also graces the hands and bezel markers.

It is all nice enough that Kyle could be forgiven if he had simply finished it off with a couple of conventional round subdials and called it a day – but he didn't, and what he did instead raises the Syncro to the next level. Remember my post about Retro Watch Designs That Need to Make a Comeback? The surfboard dial, in which the subdials are enclosed in an oblong frame of contrasting color, was the very first item on my wish list. I even said, "I'd jump all over an affordable, mid-sized surfboard chronograph." Well, here it is. On orange frame surrounds two asymmetrical registers with crazy radiating indexes. It is a fabulous, trippy throwback that was long overdue. It's not the only reason I ordered the watch, but it certainly put it over the top.

My review samples were a 40mm black dial with white registers and a dive bezel, and two 44mm's with racing bezels, one silver/blue, one the other black-on-black in a PVD black case. With these three watches and a selection of NATOs, I was able to sample all the strap styles. The silver arrived on polished mesh secured with a signed, hook-and-lock clasp. Straton offered this same period-correct strap on the Curve-Chrono, and I'm pleased to see it again.

Leather options include a single-layer perforated model with minimal stitching and a drilled, three-hole rally with contrasting orange stitching. The vibrant nylon NATOs are soft and comfortable, and their brushed hardware is neatly stitched in place. All of the straps have signed buckles, even the NATO.

The Syncro can still be had for as low as CHF 329 ($331 USD) for the MecaQuartz and CHF 719 ($722 USD) for the N88 auto. Retail will be about 40% higher. This price also includes a zippered travel case, and thanks to some stretch goals it now includes a strap changing tool, and a total of four straps (the one that comes standard on the watch, your choice of two NATOs, and an additional strap of your choice).

A note about that tool, though. It is a sturdy unit with threaded end caps, and it works fine on the leather, but the fork is too wide to get at the mesh strap's spring pins, and the opposite side is a pin-pusher that is of no use on this watch. It is hard to complain about a freebie, but if you are going to include a tool with your watch, it should work on all of it. That quibble aside, this is one heck of a deal. Kyle managed to pack the best of the 1970's into the Syncro. It delivers a little something for everyone –particularly me. My biggest problem now is deciding which options to choose.

For more information or to order yours, head over to the Syncro Kickstarter page. You'd better get there quick. The pre-order campaign ends March 5 at noon Eastern Standard Time.

Today I've got an interview with Bill McDowell. I've also collaborated with McDowell Time and Maryland strap vendor Clockwork Synergy to bring you a sweet giveaway. Like what you see? Want to win a McDowell Time DelRay and Clockwork Synergy straps? See the rules below.

When did you discover your passion for watches?

I’ve always been a ‘gadget person’, so as a child wearing a watch was a cool gadget for me. I consistently wore some inexpensive watch until the smartphone era, and at that point watches became somewhat obsolete for me, especially since I had a cool new phone.

It wasn’t until my in-laws gave me my first 'nice' watch as an engagement gift that I again realized how cool watches can be. A watch revolution started in my life and I became obsessed with analyzing every watch I came across; critiquing the minor details which culminate to the overall design and feel. I was constantly scouring the Internet and Kickstarter to see what cool watch was coming next.

What inspired you to create your own watch company?

I really admired the Kickstarter-funded watch companies and thought “who are these people to just make their own watch?” I was awestruck at the idea of someone creating a company on Kickstarter from scratch. I started researching what it would take to start my own brand and slowly put together a business plan. After months of planning & prep work, we were lucky to fully fund our first watch on Kickstarter and now we are a real brand too!

What products do you provide at McDowell Time?

We currently sell our only watch, the DelRay, along with a variety of strap options; however, we are very excited to release our next model, the Sonoma, this spring on Kickstarter.

Which of your watch designs is your personal favorite?

Since we are a fairly new company we only have two watch designs right now. Our first watch, the DelRay, is a very classic design that will always have a spot in our heart since it was the watch that launched our company. That being said, I’m more biased towards the Sonoma because it was a true in-house design. We modeled the watch with 3D CAD software and printed out many variations with our 3D printer. This rapid prototyping allowed us to get direct feedback on design tweaks and see the effects in person, not just a computer screen.

What are some technical details of your watches?

Here are the specs:

Case - 316L Stainless Steel in Polished or PVD Black
Case Width - 44MM
Lug Width - 22MM
Thickness - 11MM
Crystal - Sapphire Crystal with Anti-Reflective Coating
Movement - Seiko Epson YT57 Auto-Quartz (Kinetic)
Hands - Classic Styling with C3 Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance - 10ATM

The Seiko YT57 movement provides the benefits of both automatic and quartz watches. The automatic movement is the typical rotating counterweight and is visible via a glass case back. Instead of the rotating mechanism winding a spring, the YT57 stores energy in a small capacitor. This electrical energy is then used to power the quartz operation of the watch; which provides extremely reliable timekeeping. This combination of rotation mass converting to electrical energy is a true hybrid approach.

What do you do in your free time when you aren’t designing watches?

What’s this ‘free time’ you speak of? LOL! I’m a gearhead at heart, so I enjoy wrenching on older cars when I can. A few years ago I restored a 1980 CJ-7 where I disassembled the car, had all the body panels media blasted, then I repainted everything with my Dad’s help. We installed new gauges and re-wired the Jeep while it was all apart.

More recently I’ve been flying drones. I’ve always tinkered with remote control cars & planes, so drones are the next logical step. You have to be very careful where to fly in the DC area, and luckily my house is just barely in the ‘allowed area’ to fly.

What are some goals for the future of McDowell Time?

We have a few more designs queued-up that we would like to create, but it all depends on our next Kickstarter. We don’t ever over-extend ourselves, so we need to continue to have funding success to justify making watches. Ultimately we hope to continue creating some cool watches that deliver high quality at an affordable price.

GIVEAWAY!

Want to win a new McDowell Time watch and case, along with three Clockwork Synergy straps and a Classic Strap Tool? Easy. Just head over to Facebook, Instagram, or both and follow the rules below.

Facebook:

1. Like the contest image.

2. Like @thetimebum, @mcdowelltime, and @clockworksynergy on Facebook.

3. Tag three friends who you think would love this prize. For every friend you tag, you will earn an additional entry!

Instagram:

1. Heart the contest image.
2. Follow @thetimebum, @mcdowelltime, and @clockworksynergy on Instagram.
3. Tag three friends in the comments. Once accounts are followed, regram the image for an additional entry!

Giveaway ends March 16, 2017, winners will be chosen shortly after. Good luck!

Photos courtesy of McDowell Time and Clockwork Synergy.

Guest Bum review by Zach Gulsby, an Account Manager by day, and a lifelong wristwatch enthusiast. His Instagram handle is @zgulsby.

I recently went through the equivalent of a watch enthusiast’s mid-life-crisis. I've owned sports watches, dress watches, tool watches, chronographs, time only, white faces, black faces, vintage, new, homages, originals, and so on. I thought I had my bases covered until I came to a truly horrifying realization – I didn’t own a single piece that wasn’t round. No squares, no rectangles, no barrels, no tonneaus, nothing. So after a few long nights of late-night research and a bit of goading at a local meet up, I hit “Buy It Now” on an auction for a NOS (new old stock) mid-70’s Hudson Instalite. Pull out the bell-bottoms and flower print – rectangle case, here I come.

The Hudson Instalite is a byproduct of the so-called Quartz Crisis – the introduction of inexpensive, highly accurate, battery powered movements that flipped the global watch market on its head in the 1970’s and 80’s. In an attempt to compete with the new Japanese technology, European manufacturers released a plethora of funky direct-read designs (Technos Digilight, Alihor Digital Automatic, etc.) that were slated to compete with the quartz digital pieces overtaking the lower-end market. These bold designs housed inexpensive movements with rotating hour and minute wheels instead of the standard two or three hand 12H dial layout. This allowed the current hour and minute to be read directly through a window on the face of the watch. While the direct-read design was not new, this was the first time they were truly produced for the mass market.

The Hudson Instalite is powered by an EB 8461 – a manually wound, 17 jewel pin-lever movement made by Ebauches Bettlach – a Swiss manufacturer that would eventually fold into the ETA that we know and love today. Despite the fact that Bettlach was on the lower end of the Ebauches portfolio, the no-nonsense EB 8461 gets the job done accurately – I have tracked the watch at a few minutes fast per day. It beats at 18k bph and carries about 40 hours of power reserve. The watch itself was produced by Zürich-based Itraco and branded by Hudson for sale in the US market.

The case measures 30mm by 35mm and is 11mm tall. It has a brushed finish on the face and back, while the sides, bevels, and lugs are polished. The crown measures in at a tidy 5mm by 3mm, and does not screw down. Lug to lug distance is 37mm. With many watches pushing 50mm lug to lug, I have to admit that this size wears refreshingly well. It fits comfortably on my 6.5” wrist and slides nicely under a cuff if necessary. This example features a silver gray inlay, but other colors, such as red and blue, can be found. The hour wheel features bright red numerals, while the minute wheels are black. The watch arrived riding a NOS 18mm mesh bracelet that pairs awesomely with the head. The links are polished, and the clasp is adjustable for wrists up to 8.5” in size.

You likely noticed the odd pusher above the crown, which brings me to my favorite feature of the aptly named Instalite – a battery powered LED light that tries its damnedest to allow the time to be read in the dark. While the LED isn’t the most powerful, depressing the pusher and seeing the face light up is a fun throwback to the 70’s, and a nifty little feature.

I have always considered the Cartier Tank á guichet to be my absolute grail watch. So when searching for an affordable, rectangular cased watch, I was naturally drawn to jump hour complications. Many of these 70’s direct read watches are falsely claimed as true jump hours, but to my surprise, the Instalite implements the complication well – until the time nears 55 minutes, the hour dial remains stationary. Only in the last five minutes of the hour will the dial start to tick over to the new hour.

Overall, I can’t say that I’m not happy with the purchase. While the Instalite’s build quality is expectedly not in line with some more expensive options, for around $100 you get a cool piece of history from an era when European watchmakers almost met their demise. It has earned a permanent spot in my rotation…at least until I can afford that Cartier Tank á guichet! ⬩

Maybe it's the hint of springtime in the air, but I have noticed a lovely crop of new microbrand watches popping up for pre-order, so grab your credit card and have a look.

Zelos Watches has introduced a trio of dress watches on Kickstarter, all of which share the same 40mm case, sapphire crystal, and Swiss ETA 2824 or Selitta SW200 automatic movements. The daring Zelos Avant shows off an intricately perforated and semi-skeletonized dial in a steel, bronze, or PVD black case. It starts at $369.

The Visionary has skeleton hands, applied bar markers, and a dazzling muti-layered meteorite dial in a stainless steel or marine bronze case starting at $459.

Finally, the restrained Gallant keeps it simple with black or white dials with steel or bronze cases and markers for a starting price of just $299.

Marloe Watch Company returns to Kickstarter with the gorgeous Lomond Chronoscope. This beauty holds a SeaGull ST19 mechanical chronograph in its tasteful, vintage inspired case. Measuring 43mm across, the Lomond features a ceramic bezel, high domed acrylic crystal, and a distinctive pinched and fluted crown.

The Classic model comes in white or gray dials and a matte telemeter bezel, while The Vintage comes in Vanilla or Coffee and a polished 60-second bezel. All are attractive, but that rich brown and gold of the Vintage Coffee caught my eye. Prices start at just $372.

Meanwhile in Portugal, Borealis has gone crazy with new watches, releasing three models for pre-order. The Sea Storm is a 300M diver in the style of the 1950's Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Tornek-Rayville. It measures 41.5mm and runs a Seiko NH35 automatic. The domed sapphire crystal and bezel complete the vintage look. Most variants are already sold out, but you ca still grab one with BWG9 lume for $300.

The 42mm Cascais is powered by a Swiss STP1-11 automatic. This 300m diver has a classic layout and promises outstanding lume on both the dial and ceramic bezel. It has a double-domed sapphire crystal, Viton and Tefzel gaskets, and a bracelet with quick adjusting clasp. It is available in black, blue, white, or brown and sells for $450.

The Porto Santo takes a completely different direction. It has shades of Radiomir in its 44mm cushion case and wire lugs, but with harder edges, a pronounced bezel, and a mix of surface finishes. A wild, asymmetric subdial and fan-tailed hour hand really set it apart. Of course, it is also dive ready. The watch is rated for 300m and features sapphire glass, and engraved rehaut, and SuperLuminova. The pre-order price is $299. ⬩

Photos courtesy of the brands.

2016 Acquisitions

Tangramatic Nereid Argo and Hyperion

Please Pardon Our Appearance

Deaumar Ensign and Chronova

New Year, New Bum

Boston & Stewill Tourer II

How to Make a Watch Dial – The Moflake Returns.

Melbourne Watch Co. Sorrento and Collins

TravisLeon Heirloom

Manchester Watch Works Equinox Automatic and Speed Timer

Straton Syncro Racing Chronographs and Duffel Bags

DuFrane Bergstrom

Zelos Hammerhead

A Trio of Thomas Earnshaw Skeletons

Vapaus Veli

Sinn 103 St Acrylic

Straton Syncro

Interview With Bill McDowell and McDowell Time / Clockwork Synergy Giveaway

Hudson Instalite

March Pre-order Madness