Geckota C-1 Racing Chronograph

March 5, 2017, 10:27 pm

The folks at the UK brand Geckota design and sell watches, straps, and accessories through WatchGecko.com. I have long been a fan of their straps but never sampled one of their watches. With the announcement of the Geckota C-1 Racing Chronograph, it was time to give them a try. They sent me a prototype model V03 for this review. Overall quality is what I would expect from a finished product. The only planned changes are black fill on the crown signature and stronger lume.

The C-1 takes its cues from vintage racing chronographs, but goes its own way, most notably in case design, which is cushion shaped with hard corners, bowed edges, and flat sides. It has slim, straight, drilled lugs and measures 42mm wide, 45mm long and 12mm thick. Square watches tend to appear at least one size larger than round cases of the same width, but the Geckota avoids this fate by using a combination of finishes: radial brushing on top, vertical brushing on the sides, and polishing on the prominent bezel and around the beveled upper edge. The push buttons and crown are also polished. This variation breaks up the otherwise blocky shape, lending it a pleasingly tailored effect. I found it fit my 6.5" wrist quite comfortably, without looking at all oversized.

The case is fitted with a signed, dual gasket, screw down crown and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Water resistance is a healthy 100m. On the flip side, you will find a threaded case back engraved with the Geckota name and your watch’s serial number. It would have been nice to see something more imaginative back there, but not essential.

Three colors are offered: black/charcoal, white/gray, and the brown/black pictured here. In life, the brown is a very dark, very warm gray that pairs nicely with the black registers and orange accents. It’s an appealing combination. The overall effect reminds me of a gray dial Omega Speedster Mk II without being an outright copy. Squares of SuperLuminova are printed behind the polished and applied faceted markers, and the polished hands are also filled with lume. The glow was merely average, but Geckota promises stronger material on the finished product.

The only text on the dial is the brand name, printed in a distinctive script. Really, the only thing I would change is the black-on-white date disk. The window is nicely incorporated into the 6 o’clock position, displacing that marker, and its polished frame works well with the other accents, but a black disk would have made it seamless.

Given the selection of straps for sale at WatchGecko, I had high expectations for the C-1’s strap, and I was not disappointed. The 22mm Vintage Racing strap is a classic, perforated rally style, cut from thick waxed leather that presents a pull-up effect when bent, creating lovely variations in its red-brown color. A wide, floating keeper and ivory stitching at the corners The buckle is polished, but unsigned.

Like many of its automobile-inspired rivals, the C-1 uses a Seiko VK64 MecaQuartz movement. This popular hybrid marries a quartz timekeeper with a mechanical chronograph module for a 1/5th-second sweep and crisp reset snap-back. It also helps keep the price down. The C-1 is now available for pre-order for £299 (about $368 USD) including two extra straps in addition to the one that comes on the watch. This is in line with the advance pricing for the VK64 Straton Synchro ($330 with one extra leather/mesh strap and two NATOs), but frankly, it is also uncomfortably close to the $375 Marloe Lomond Chronograph with its arguably more desirable ST19 mechanical movement and ceramic bezel. Nonetheless, the Geckota C-1 has an appealing retro look and a competitive price. For more information or to place your order, head over to WatchGecko.com. ⬩

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Five Tough Quartz Watches

March 10, 2017, 7:08 pm

≫ Next: Omega Dynamic Series 1

≪ Previous: Geckota C-1 Racing Chronograph

A reader asked me to recommend a good, tough watch that was also a good value – a real bulletproof bargain. This is the sort of challenge I love. The question actually raises a host of other questions. Is "toughness" measured by shock resistance, pressure resistance, longevity, or some combination of the these? How much do you want to spend? How will you use your watch? After all, commercial divers, coal miners, and astronauts all have tough jobs, but their different environments require different attributes. Your toughness may vary, but here is a selection of different styles in a range of prices to get you started.

If I were buying a watch that would really have to take physical abuse, I would choose a quartz movement because they are highly shock resistant, unaffected by magnetism, and have fewer moving parts to break than a mechanical. With those factors in mind, my first recommendation is the Casio G-Shock. They are cheap, tough as nails, and all the law enforcement and military guys I know swear by them. The GA100L-1A is antimagnetic, rated for 200m water resistance, and has more complications than you can shake a stick at. Among the techno-wizardry packed into that bulbous 55mm plastic case is a world timer, 4 alarms, a 1/1000 second stopwatch, a countdown timer, 12/24 hour formats, and a calendar programmed to the year 2099. Best of all, it is dirt cheap. It lists for $99 but you can grab one for as little as $66 through WalMart.com and beat it like a rented mule.

If you have more conservative tastes or if just need a watch that you can wear in civilized settings too, I'd suggest a Citizen Eco-Drive dive watch. Eco-Drive quartz movements use solar cells to charge their long-life batteries (estimated 10 years). I'm partial to the BN0000-04H that I reviewed here. It has a monocoque 40mm case with no rear opening or seal to fail. It lists for $275 but is easy to find online for about $165. I understand it is issued by the U.K. Royal Navy and I can see why: it's inexpensive, has long service intervals, and can venture all the way to Davy Jones' locker – or at least the first 300m of it.

Divers aren't the only tough mothers around. A good tactical watch will see you though some rough stuff too. The ArmourLite IsoBrite ISO100 Valor packs a Swiss Ronda 715Li quartz movement, 10-year lithium battery, and bright T-100 tritium tubes into its 47mm case. Tritium tubes ensure a steady glow all night, every night, with no need for a light source to charge them. The watch has a sapphire crystal and is rated for 200m. The matte black polycarbonite case keeps it light in your wrist, despite its prodigious size. It sells for $499.

If you want to spend more, Marathon has a good history and are also popular with the military set. Their Search and Rescue Divers Quartz series uses high quality Swiss ETA quartz movements, scratch proof sapphire crystals, and are rated for 300m. The watches run between $560-$1000, depending on size. This Tritium Search and Rescue (TSAR) features tritium tube illumination, a 3 jewel ETA F06 high torque quartz movement, and a classic field watch dial that looks like it is set about mile into that chunky 41mm case. The TSAR lists for $870.

Finally, if you are ready to drop around $2200, Sinn owners swear by the toughness of the UX-series divers. For maximum badassery, get something like the UX EZM 2B Hydro. The case and bezel are Tegimented submarine steel for a surface that is 9x harder than that of untreated 316L stainless steel. The watch has a sapphire crystal with a scratch resistant anti-reflective coating. The movement is a Swiss quartz immersed in an oil filled case. Why? Because the oil makes the case highly pressure resistant and eliminates reflection, fogging, and distortions for easy readability underwater. It also creates an eerily flat effect. Needless to say, you won't be dropping this off at the mall kiosk for a battery change, but at least the battery has a 7-year life! ⬩

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Omega Dynamic Series 1

March 12, 2017, 9:35 pm

≫ Next: Preview: Vario Eclipse

≪ Previous: Five Tough Quartz Watches

I can’t recall how I discovered the Omega Dynamic. Most likely I was trawling eBay or the Watchuseek sales forum for bargains, but I do know exactly the watch that grabbed me. It was a first-generation model with a brushed stainless steel case and a blue and silver dial that looked like an eyeball. It was weird and wonderful, and I knew I would have to add one to my collection. Eventually, I added two of these under-appreciated gems: an early blue/gold dial in a 14k gold capped case on a synthetic strap, and a later two-tone gray dial in a brushed case that arrived on leather and was subsequently retrofitted with a bracelet.

I won't delve too far into the history of the watch and its variants (for that, I'll refer you to Desmond Guilfoyle's excellent article) but a little background is in order. Omega created the Dynamic for the 1965 Prix de Ville de Geneva. It had a streamlined oval case, color block dial, and a unique mounting ring design for its straps and bracelets. The watch was a radical departure from convention, and it was exactly what the watchmaker needed to attract a youthful new generation. The Dynamic first launched in late 1968 and proved wildly popular, rapidly became Omega’s number one watch with more than one million units sold by 1972. It even saw its share of imitators – Bulova and Gruen pop to mind. A second case variant followed, and the Dynamic saw some overlap with the De Ville line, but it was soon over. Omega discontinued the range in 1979. They reintroduced the Dynamic in 1984 with a bizarre asymmetric “spider” case, but this was mercifully short-lived. The Omega Museum website now lists the Dynamic as one of its “lost lines.”

The case is a lugless oval, decorated with a deeply grained radial brushing, measuring 41mm wide, 37 tall, and 10mm thick to the top of its Hesalite acrylic box crystal. Later models were offered on polished cases with rounded sides, and the Dynamic/DeVille crossovers produced square case models, but for this review, I'll stick to the more common, oblong brushed versions that I own. Omega also produced a scaled-down, 31mm ladies' version that is otherwise identical to the men's version reviewed here. Most other lugless designs channel their spring bar perches into the barrel of the case; eliminating lugs while retaining their mechanism. Not so for the Dynamic. In lieu of bars, the watch has a circular channel into which a proprietary one-piece strap or bracelet mount is seated and secured with a threaded ring. This leaves the underside smooth and minimizes the watch's footprint. With the bracelet in place, the watch does, in fact, have lugs in the form of fixed link attachment points. Including those increases overall length to just 42mm.

This is a monocoque case. You access the movement by pulling the crown free and removing the crystal with "special tool 107" as it says on the case back. At the time, Omega boasted that this feature made the watch waterproof to 30m. Granted, this is nothing in today's market, but it was not bad at all in 1967. Of course, one should remember that these watches are now several decades old, so unless it has been recently overhauled and pressure tested, it is best to keep your watch out of the water altogether.

The Dynamic was touted as an ergonomically optimized design, and indeed, it does have some rather clever features. The oblong shape fits neatly between your wrist bones. Original straps were made of Corfam, a porous synthetic leather that was perforated for even better air flow. Both the strap and bracelet taper from 30mm down to a wispy 14mm buckle or 16mm clasp. Contemporary advertising claimed the distinctive "time zone" dial allowed you to easily read the time in 1/5th-second increments. To be honest, I have no idea what they were talking about. Maybe I'm not sophisticated enough to recognize it, but I did not experience any heightened sense of precision timekeeping. Regardless, it is a highly functional layout and its bold and beautiful contrasting minute and hour rings are unquestionably eye-catching. The black and white baton hands graze their markers, and they are even filled with lume, although they have long since lost all potency. The blue/gold face is entirely printed, but the gray dial has applied hour markers that, in my opinion, greatly improve its appearance. In keeping with the Dynamic's sporting nature, the second hand is a bright needle; sky blue on the blue/gold dial and orange on the gray dial. While the bullseye design on these two watches is the one most commonly associated with the Dynamic range, they also offered more conventional layouts.

Omega offered the Dynamic with a number of mechanical movements. My watches have the 24-jewel Calibre 565 automatic with a 19.8k bph vibration rate and 50-hour power reserve. Its date complication operates by pulling the crown all the way out and then depressing it to advance the wheel. While it is, technically, a "quick set" mechanism and a far better than not having a quick set at all, this push-pull does not feel terribly quick when you haven't worn the watch for a few weeks. Other movements had day/date features, date only like my two, or no date at all. While the push-pull quick set is a quirky feature, I think I'd prefer the aesthetics and practicality of a the no-date version.

I purchased my gold Dynamic from a local collector. It came with a tired looking original Corfam and an aftermarket replacement. The signed buckle has a ladder shape an open space behind the center bar through which the tail is tucked for a clean appearance. I found the gray dial watch on eBay. This minty piece came from a seller who was just clearing out his father's effects, and I bought it for peanuts. It arrived on a decrepit leather strap, so I set out looking for a suitable replacement.

Proprietary straps can be a pain to find, so I was pleasantly surprised to see how plentiful the offbeat Dynamic units are. Otto Frei stocks Omega leather straps for $169, bracelet adapter rings for $128, and bracelets for $480. There was no way The Bum was going to pay that much. I am not a stickler for originality when it comes to straps, and I had no desire to put a sparking new bracelet on a 40-year old watch head. Fortunately, it is easy to find aftermarket straps for as low as $20 on eBay, and I found a used original Omega bracelet in very good condition for under $100.

The retaining ring can be removed with a regular case back wrench, but why risk scratching your case when you can pick up the plastic Tool 206 that was originally supplied with the watch for as little as $15? The system works quite well. Those of us who frequently swap straps using spring pin tools will wonder what the fuss is about, but for a non-watch nerd buying the watch in 1970, the threaded retainer was probably a revelation. The only caveat is that you need to be sure that the watch head is properly aligned on the strap. It is easy to get it off-center, and from what I have seen online, it seems many people have needlessly worn their Dynamics cock-eyed for years.

The watch may be small by today's standards, but its unique shape and the broad beam of its strap/bracelet at the case give it a healthier wrist presence than you might think. It is perfect on my 6.5" wrist, but I suspect beefier fellows will likely think otherwise. On thicker wrists, the Dynamic would be more in line with a dress watch than the sporty all-arounder as it was initially conceived. For such a small watch, I expected the bracelet would be an easy fit on my 6.5" wrist, but this was not the case. I had to remove all the extra links and move the micro adjustment on the clasp to bring it down to size. It worked out fine, but just barely. If you have a smaller wrist, you will likely want to stick to a strap.

My gold dial Dynamic comes out on special occasions as a dress watch (often paired with these sweet 60's vintage Pierre Cardin cufflinks) and will one day get a custom strap or a used gold bracelet to better suit this purpose. The gray dial is a frequent visitor to my office as it looks sharp with a suit and slips under even my tightest shirt cuffs. As much as I dig the bracelet, I miss the contrast between the cool charcoal and the saddle leather strap, so I will likely seek a replacement for that as well.

Dynamics enjoy the cachet of the Omega name and top-quality movements but are not yet embraced as collectible classics, and they are in no way in short supply. As a result, prices are very reasonable. Watch Recon and eBay searches will reveal Dynamics generally selling in the $500-$1800 range. There are outliers, of course. Watch dealers with pristine complete sets will ask well over $2000, and 18k gold cased models also command a premium. Needless to say, buyers should beware frankenwatches, repainted dials, or other second-hand shenanigans. These are not rare watches, so there is no reason to settle for a damaged or non-functioning piece unless you want a project and are getting it very cheap.

Perhaps the Dynamic was a victim of its own success. After all, it was a product of the moment, seizing the brash modernism and bold graphics that defined the late 60’s and early 70’s. It was not exactly what you would call a restrained, timeless design, and it is easy to see how it would have been terribly out of fashion by the early 80's, but with the benefit of time it is easier to appreciate its brilliantly offbeat design. There is much to love in these watches, and the fact that they are still so affordable makes them all the more appealing. ⬩

↧

Preview: Vario Eclipse

March 12, 2017, 9:53 pm

≫ Next: Marloe Lomond Chronoscope

≪ Previous: Omega Dynamic Series 1

Singapore's Vario is best known for its patterned NATO straps, but on March 28 (27th here in the States) the company launches its first watch, the Eclipse. In the interest of full disclosure, you should know that while I have no affiliation with the company, Vario did ask my opinions during the planning and design phase and I was happy to oblige. Some of my suggestions were taken, some were not. I have not yet sampled a prototype but I like what I see.

The Eclipse offers vintage-inspired design at an entry-level price. To this end, it has a 3mm double domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a mid-century modern dial in a polished 38mm case. As far as I'm concerned, 38mm is right on the money; period correct and ideal for a dress watch. Slim lugs and a modest, coin edged crown complete the picture. Kickstarter backers will receive a decorated caseback bearing the image of a wolf and "Heavenly Hound devours the moon" written in traditional Chinese characters.

The domed sunray dial has the familiar minimalist layout of stick markers and white baton hands. Note that the above photo shows the first prototype. It should appear very much the same in production except that the markers will be slightly longer to better reach the hands and the applied Vario logo will be smaller and matte finished instead polished. It comes in silver, grey, black, and blue. A lovely bottle-green version is also being contemplated and may be offered as a stretch goal.

The Eclipse is clean and conservative – perhaps to a fault. I like the overall design, but it lacks that one single distinguishing feature to set it apart from its competitors. An interesting handset shape or uncommon marker design would have gone far to define its character. That job falls to its movement's instead. Vario looked beyond the usual microbrand favorites and chose a Miyota 6t33 hand winding mechanical and a Seiko VH31 quartz that 4 beats times per second to mimic the sweep of a mechanical movement. That smooth quartz was my suggestion so needless to say, I think it's a pretty good idea.

The watch will ship on a variety of 20mm Harris tweed straps. As I have said about other tweeds, I like the look, but see it as a seasonal item. I would prefer the primary strap to be leather so I could wear all year with the tweed as a secondary accessory for the fall and winter. On the other hand, delivery is not expected until September, so it will be right on time for those of us in the northern hemisphere.

Now the best part: price. The Eclipse quartz will sell for $118-$148; the mechanical for $198-$238. Extra Harris tweed or nylon NATO straps are $20 with watch purchase, or $28 each, $52 for two, and $72 for three if ordered on their own. This is a heck of deal. I suspect that many folks who loved the Vapaus Veli but balked at the price will jump on this one.

The Eclipse launches March 28, at 10:00 AM Singapore time (March 27, at 10:00 PM US EST). Go to https://vario.sg/pages/eclipse-watch-kickstarter for more information. ⬩

Pics courtesy of Vario

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Marloe Lomond Chronoscope

March 20, 2017, 6:44 am

≫ Next: McDowell Time Sonoma

≪ Previous: Preview: Vario Eclipse

I had talked myself out of ordering The Marloe Watch Company's newest model. Sure, the Lomond Chronoscope looked pretty cool, and the Kickstarter Early Bird price was mighty tempting for a mechanical chronograph, but I resisted. I had just paid for two other pre-orders. I had committed to downsizing my collection and hadn't sold enough of my old ones to justify another purchase. Moreover, the Lomond is 43mm wide, and I was trying steer towards smaller cases. I made quite a convincing case. Then I got a "Vintage Coffee" Lomond prototype into my hands, and I had to reevaluate everything.

Marloe Lomond Chronoscope Vintage Coffee

I reviewed Marloe's first project, the Cherwell, about this time last year and came away duly impressed with the distinctive design and hand-cranked internals that gave the watch its uniquely appealing personality. Marloe built upon this foundation with their second range, the Derwent. The Lomond possesses many of those same elements, most notably a tapered case and crown, a meticulously executed dial, and of course, a hand-wound heart. The Lomond's SeaGull ST19 traces its origin to the old Venus 175, a Swiss column-wheel design sold to the Chinese in the early 1960's. It is a two register chronograph with a small seconds and 30-minute totalizer. Beat rate is 21.6k bph. My SeaGull 1963 Reissue and Magrette Moana Pacific both have ST19s inside and have provided years of trouble-free operation. It is a pretty movement too. Its Geneva stripes, gold plating, and blued screws are on full display through the Lomond's exhibition window. While you are back there, have a squint at the Robert Burns quote cut into the outer ring, "Nae man can tether time or tide."

Viewing the watch in profile, you can appreciate the Lomond's uncommon shape. The polished case tapers from a 43mm face to a 38mm caseback. A channel running under the bezel helps to break up the profile a bit, but that dramatic wedge-shaped profile still looks impressively tall, even though the case is only 11mm thick.

The angle also serves to elongate the lugs, drawing out their lines as they meet the sides of the case. The wedge is echoed in the crown, which is also signed and decorated with deep angled grooves that afford excellent grip. It screws down on the prototype while production models will use a doubled gasketed push-pull crown, which makes far more sense given that this is not a diving watch and is rated for only 50M water resistance. The case and crown elements continue the themes established by the Cherwell. It is a design language that is unique to Marloe, and it looks fabulous. I must also note that even though this was a prototype, the case finishing was top-notch with crisp lines but no unpleasantly sharp edges.

The folks at Marloe opted for a layered dial and ceramic bezel on this watch, and I applaud those decisions. The outermost ring of the dial contains a 1/5th scale index and applied hour markers. The primary dial has the lume pips and textured subdials recessed into the surface. There is quite a lot of text squeezed onto this dial: "Marloe Watch Company" at the top of the dial, "Chronoscope" and the water resistance rating in the lower half, and "Hand Wound" wrapping to meet the pips at 6 o'clock. I often criticize this much wordiness on a dial, but Marloe has integrated it well. From the old Hollywood style of typeface to the clever use of unequal sizing, to the contrasting color of "Chronoscope," it achieves a proper balance.

There are four variants available. All feature polished, faceted, and lume-filled minute and hour hands. The second hand is particularly pleasing, painted in the dial's accent color and featuring a long, lumed spear tip and a looped tail. The Classics have white or gray dials, matte black bezels engraved with a telemeter scale, and crocodile embossed straps. The Vintage models are Vanilla (pearl white) or Coffee (brown and gold) with glossy black 60-second scale bezels, and calf leather straps with contrasting stitching, pronounced grain, and brass rivets. The straps are 22mm wide with signed buckles and quick-release springbars.

I requested the Vintage Coffee prototype for my review sample. It is a gorgeous espresso color that alternates from a rich brown to a warm black. The index, subdials, and other accents are gold. The rich brown of the dial and strap, hard gloss black of the bezel, and metallic gold and steel combine to form a marvelously sensual treat. Crazy edge distortion from the acrylic dome doesn't hurt one bit. The Vintage Coffee Lomond is like a chocolate pot de creme, intense and deceptively complex, but just enough to be satisfying without going over the top.

As much as I love the dial, I do have some criticisms. The flat polished hands on the subdials offer little contrast and can be easily lost under the wrong light. Also, while the C3 SuperLuminova is strong, and there is ample application on the hands, the lume pips are tiny. I feel greedy to say it, but why not lume the bezel markers? It would make perfect sense with the lumed sweep hand. Not that I ever have much call to time things in the dark, but it would have looked amazing.

Marloe Lomond Chronoscope Vintage Coffee lume

On the wrist, the Lomond belies its 43mm girth. This largely a result of the tapered case, which keeps the lugs from protruding too far beyond the face, limiting the overall length to a compact 46.5mm. It also features a high-domed acrylic crystal that increases its overall thickness to 13.65mm. For reference, the Lomond is 0.5mm shorter and 2mm thinner than my 41mm Sinn 103 st, which is by no means a large watch. For all its presence, I found the Lomond to be an easy fit on my 6.5" wrist and comfortable under a buttoned shirt cuff.

Marloe Lomond Chronoscope Vintage Coffee wrist

So here I am, with this marvelous espresso gem on my wrist, and I don't want to send it back. I told myself it was too big, and I was wrong. I told myself I already had too many watches, and well, that's clearly a joke. The only thing left is the price, and although they are no longer stupid cheap (the $280 Super Early Bird and $322 Early Bird are both sold out), I can still snag one for $372. That is an excellent value, and a hell of a bargain compared to the $549 expected retail.

That's it. I'm backing the Lomond Chronoscope. If you care to join me, head over to the Kickstarter page before Friday, March 31 at 9:56 AM EST. ⬩

↧

McDowell Time Sonoma

March 26, 2017, 3:20 pm

≫ Next: New NTH Subs: Amphion Dark Gilt and Barracuda

≪ Previous: Marloe Lomond Chronoscope

After the success of the DelRay, McDowell Time is returning to Kickstarter with the Sonoma, a mid-sized chronograph named for the famous California racetrack. I got some time with a PVD black panda dial prototype for this review.

Every good racer must start with a suitable engine. The Sonoma's is the popular Seiko/Time Module MecaQuartz, a cost-effective hybrid that marries a conventional quartz timekeeper to mechanical chronograph. The VK63 movement used here features small seconds, 60-minute, and 24-hour registers.

Its cushion case is just 39mm wide, which may sound small, but recall that square shapes appear to be at least one size larger than comparably sized round cases. Indeed, this is the same size as a modern Heuer Monaco, and that is hardly what you would call undersized. In person, the Sonoma's broad shoulders and pronounced bezel give it an appropriately sporting stance. The case slopes at the corners, softening the shape and further reducing its already svelte 11mm profile. Finally, short lugs keep the overall length to just 47mm. It is an appealing form and an ideal fit on my 6.5" wrist.

Buyers may choose from steel or PVD black finishes with a combination of vertical and circular brushing. The push-pull crown is signed, coin-edged, and polished as are the blocky chronograph buttons. While I have no objection to the finish, I believe there was a missed opportunity here, as a polished bezel would have tied these glossy elements into the rest of the case, and been a pretty pleasing addition in and of itself.

This prototype did not have any caseback decoration, but I understand a checked flag motif is in the works. A slightly domed sapphire crystal finishes it off. Water resistance is 100m, ensuring more than ample protection for most aquatic activities short of actual diving.

Sonoma dials are blue, silver/white, or black and feature contrasting subdials, an angled chapter index, and Arabic numbers in the style of the McDowell Time DelRay. This seemingly minor detail actually goes a long way to creating a connection between the two models. Even though they are almost entirely dissimilar, I can see a brand identity forming here. I selected a silver/white dial with black registers in a PVD case for this review. The pencil hands are polished while the sweep hand and subdial needles are red. C3 SuperLuminova hands and numbers ensure a healthy glow at night.

Overall, it is an appealing layout. I know I have taken watch designers to task for oversize logos, but the big "MT" balances well against the three registers. I also like the way fine black outline of the lume-filled numbers improves daytime legibility on the light colored dial and creates just a hint of race car number plate.

Of course, I do have a few criticisms. The red needles do not present the best contrast against the black subdials. The white register models are far superior in this regard. (In fact, I'd say the blue/white dial is the real stunner in this lineup.) Also, while the printed dials are fine, recessing them would have been an appealing addition. These are relatively minor details. The more significant issue is the proximity of the 6 to the bottommost subdial. There is no separation between the two. Moreover, the shape of the 6 is such that it's top corner points just to the right of the register's 30-minute marker, creating the illusion that one of them is off-center. It is the sort of detail could pass right by you or drive you crazy. I fall into the latter camp. This will be corrected in the final version either by shrinking the numbers, reducing the diameter of the registers, or possibly both. I'll be curious to see how this turns out.

Straps are black carbon fiber print leather with red or white contrasting stitching. It is a refreshing change from more common drilled or perforated rally straps. They are 22mm wide, tapering to a 20mm signed Pre-V style buckle. I had a brushed steel sample on the prototype. Final buckles will match the case finish. Quick release spring bars are a thoughtful addition. The strap is soft and comfortable right out of the box and has the right look to underscore the Sonoma's modern auto racing theme.

The McDowell Time Sonoma launches on Kickstarter in early April. Pricing is not yet final, but you can expect Early Bird rewards around $220, which is highly competitive. For more information and launch updates, see McDowellTime.com. ⬩

↧

New NTH Subs: Amphion Dark Gilt and Barracuda

April 1, 2017, 5:43 pm

≫ Next: Preview: Trintec CoPilot GMT

≪ Previous: McDowell Time Sonoma

I don't think it's any secret that I like NTH watches. In my humble opinion, the brand's creator Chris Vail has found a winning formula here. I've said it in these pages when I reviewed the first line of Subs last July and the new Tropics series in December, and put my money where my mouth was when I purchased an Amphion Vintage for myself. I'm a fan, so when I learned that a second round of Subs was on its way, I had to get an early look. Chris sent me two prototypes for this hands-on review.

There are five new variants in this release including the Tudor-inspired Nacken Modern Blue, the tastefully aged Amphion Vintage Blue, and the full lume dial Santa Fe, as well as the brown Barracuda and the Rolex Mil-Sub styled Amphion Dark Gilt featured here. Because I have already written a full-on review of the Subs line, I won't repeat it all here, but I will hit the highlights. NTH watches are modern interpretations of vintage designs, and what I find so appealing is that Chris has found ways to refresh classic looks without ruining the very qualities that made the originals so appealing.

First and foremost, they are the proper size. Watches were smaller in the 1950's and 60's than they are today. Times change, and right now large cases are the norm. While I don't expect manufacturers to start turning out 36mm tool watches again, I also don't believe every diving watch has to be 42-44mm wide and fat as a tuna can. There is something to be said for restraint.

The Subs are 40mm wide, just like the classic Rolex and Tudor Submariners. Better still, they are only 48mm long and 11.5mm thick. A fine, polished bevel running lug-to-lug breaks up the brushed surface and accentuates the case's length, making it appear even slimmer. The lean profile maintains the sleek proportions of a mid-century watch. It is an impressive feat made all the more so because of its 300m water resistance rating. A double-domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a 120-click, unidirectional bezel with an engraved steel insert caps off the case. Inside is a Miyota 9015, a popular 24-jewel automatic movement with a smooth 28.8k bph sweep.

A broad screw-down crown offers ample grip without unbalancing the proportions. It is coin edged, signed, and lumed. This last feature is a signature NTH touch shared with few other watches. I can't think of any practical benefit to crown lume, but I dig it anyway.

The Amphion Dark Gilt features a black dial with applied gold markers, second hand, and sword hands. The 4:30 date window is optional and it is the only model in the new line-up to offer that choice. A gold minute track, logo and water resistance text keep things appropriately muted as does the greenish-white C3 SuperLuminova, particularly when compared to the brighter blue-white BWG9 used on the bezel. Red model name text and a red triangle on the bezel offer a nod to the 1960's military watches that inspired this model.

The Barracuda also goes for gold hands and markings, but in more of a classic Tudor style with snowflake hands. The dial is a rich brown that reveals red-gold undertones when the sunray dial catches the light. The color is cooler and flatter on the bezel, which lacks the dial's warm shimmer, but it is very closely matched, if not as lively. C3 graces the dial, hands, and bezel on this watch and I think it was an excellent choice. I like brown watches but have always found the brown and yellow combination commonly associated with "root beer" Rolexes to be kind of off-putting. The mellow white color on the Barracuda is far more pleasing to my eye.

The watches arrive on 20mm bracelets with solid end links and signed flip-lock clasps. I hate sizing bracelets but the NTH units are particularly user-friendly: threaded pins have a single screw head, obviating the need for any twin-tool acrobatics, while a pair of half-sized links and micro adjustments on the clasp allow for fine tuning. Drilled lugs facilitate removal.

As I expected, the new NTH Subs are every bit as good as the first batch and a very easy recommendation. These are cleverly crafted watches, and with pre-order prices starting at $500, they punch well above their weight. As far as I'm concerned, the question is not whether you should buy one, but which one should you buy. Given the wide range of colors and styles, I suspect this won't be a problem. Pre-orders start Monday, April 17 at JanisTrading.com. Be sure to use code TIMEBUM for $25 off. ⬩

↧

Preview: Trintec CoPilot GMT

April 3, 2017, 10:09 pm

≫ Next: Preview: BOLDR Odyssey

≪ Previous: New NTH Subs: Amphion Dark Gilt and Barracuda

Today at 11:00 AM Eastern Standard Time, Trintec Industries launches the CoPilot GMT Aviator Watch. This is the fourth watch in their CoPilot series, and like its siblings, the GMT has a face inspired by cockpit instruments. As the name suggests, this one features an independent GMT hand and rotating 24-hour bezel for displaying a second time zone. Japanese LumiNova on the dial and hands should ensure nighttime visibility.

The CoPilot’s case is sandblasted stainless steel. A PVD black coating is optional. It measures 42mm wide, 54mm long, 15mm thick, and 43mm across the bezel. Thick crown guards and lugs give it a mighty presence. Screw bars secure its 22mm rubber strap. The watch features an AR coated sapphire crystal and screw-down crown. It is rated for 200m water resistance. Inside the burly case resides a Swiss made Ronda 515-24 Quartz movement with a date display and a 3-year battery.

The CoPilot GMT has an expected retail of $380 USD but Early Birds can grab one for as little as $169 USD and enjoy free North American shipping too. Head over to the Trintec Kickstarter page for more information.

Pics courtesy of Trintec

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Preview: BOLDR Odyssey

April 6, 2017, 6:49 pm

≫ Next: Timex iQ+ Move

≪ Previous: Preview: Trintec CoPilot GMT

BOLDR Supply Company is taking its first shot at a diver’s watch with the Odyssey, a 500m automatic set to launch on Kickstarter April 15th.

I don’t have a prototype in hand yet, but the photos show an impressive chunk of chiseled stainless steel with an aggressively scalloped 120-click bezel. It measures 45.5mm wide and just over 14mm thick. Six screws fasten its stamped caseback. It is equipped with all the dive watch goodies one would expect: a double-domed and AR coated sapphire crystal, a screw-down crown with a triple-lock mechanism, and even a helium release valve to take it over the top.

The tough and respected Seiko NH35 automatic movement handles timekeeping duties. Microbrand fans should know this one well. It is a 24 jewel hacking and hand winding automatic with a 42-hour power reserve, 21.8k bph sweep, and Diashock protection.

Buyers may choose from three variants: Deep Blue with a brushed case and bezel, White Storm with a brushed case and gunmetal bezel, and Ever Black with a black case and bezel. Each has white SuperLume on the markers and hands, and comes with a choice of a polyurethane or a top-grain Italian leather strap with a waterproof coating.

The BOLDR Odyssey is larger than my usual fare, but I do like the looks of this piece, especially that sexy, industrial style bezel. Early bird pricing will start at $259 with an anticipated retail price of $359 for full retail. Sign up for information and Kickstarter alerts, at boldrwatches.com. ⬩
Photos courtsey of BOLDR

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Timex iQ+ Move

April 9, 2017, 4:35 pm

≫ Next: Nodus Trieste

≪ Previous: Preview: BOLDR Odyssey

When Timex asked me to review the iQ+ Move, I experienced a brief flash of panic. You see, this watch is a fitness tracker and I have no fitness to track. The Time Bum leads a notoriously sedentary existence. I go from sitting in my car, to sitting at a desk, to sitting on a couch. I have not seen the inside of a gym in years. I am perhaps the worst possible reviewer for a device that records exercise. I wondered if I would even register on this thing. It wasn't going to make me run or anything, would it? On the other hand, the Move is a watch, and I may not know fitness, but I do know watches. I accepted the challenge and Timex sent me this black and green model for review.

The first thing you notice about the Move is that it is, by all appearances, a legitimate watch, not a garish plastic digital or a blocky rubber ring. It's conventionally styled, 38mm brass case has proper hands and even a signed crown, although they operate in a rather unconventional manner. Its angled chapter ring is notched around printed baton markers. The Move's fitness function is betrayed only by the presence of an "Activity" subdial at 5:00. It is rated for 50m water resistance.

The Move sells for $149 on Timex.com, which puts it in competition with dozens of other trackers; however, the closest in terms of style and philosophy is the Withings Activité Steel ($129-229 depending on model). I have not reviewed one myself, but from what I have seen, they share a similar dial layout, track similar functions, and employ similar control apps. The two watches may use different movements, but the commonalities are such that I wonder if the same chipset might be at work.

My review sample was one the sportiest in the line, featuring a matte black brass case and a black dial with gray printed markers and chartreuse/lime green hands for an eye-catching pop. The 20mm strap is soft black silicone with a textured green backing, which is a fitting choice given that this is a watch intended for an active lifestyle, but it is a bit of a lint magnet. Timex also offers the Move in a bright silver tone case, white dial, and different accent colors as well as wide selection of leather and nylon straps.

A Timex wouldn't be a Timex without Indiglo illumination. Press the crown and the whole face lights up in a strong blue glow.

Overall, the Move is a handsome unit that could easily be your only watch. Unlike some fitness watches, like the ubiquitous Fitbit or Timex's own Ironman series, you can choose to dress it up or down as you like and it won't look silly with a suit. This is essential because an activity tracker does you no good if it is sitting on your dresser for 10 hours a day. The curved lugs and 13mm height sat well on my 6.5" wrist and made it easy to wear under a buttoned shirt cuff. This would be a perfectly nice watch even if it merely told the time, but of course, it does a bit more than that.

The watch uses the Timex proprietary iQ+ movement with Bluetooth connectivity that links to an app on your Apple or Android smartphone and allows you to program activity goals, either by selecting one their three pre-sets or by tailoring your own by number of steps, distance walked, calories burned, and hours of sleep. You download and open the app, fill in some basic identifying information, and then press and hold the crown for a few seconds until it beeps to initiate pairing and set up. The first time takes several minutes. Subsequent syncs are well under a minute.

The process unfolds as a little dance on the dial as the hands rotate to center position and then move to the correct time and date. It is a little odd to set your analog display watch through your phone, but it is kind if cool too. (If you ever wanted to forgo the app, you could set the time the old fashioned way too.) Once the basic set up is complete, you are printed to enter your daily goals, either a user-entered number or from one of three pre-set suggestions: Less Active, Active, and More Active. My general level of activity is most charitably described as "merely ambulatory" so I chose the "Less Active" default. I was pleased to discover that I am not as big a slug as I thought (at least in Timex's eyes) and soon bumped it up to the "More Active" but still quite attainable goals of 10,000 steps, 5 miles, 3500 calories, and 8 hours sleep. I did not check my steps or mileage for accuracy, but if either is off you can fine tune the watch' sensors through the app.

One of the more curious quirks is the selectable second hand function. Through the app, you can opt to have it display your steps, distance, date, or boring old seconds. I didn't feel the second hand provided the most useful display of activity totals, so I generally kept it on the "Perfect Date" function indicated on the chapter ring, which is marked with the numbers 1 and 31 in their corresponding minutes positions. I found it to be rather clever and intuitive. The fact that it automatically adjusts for local time, daylight savings time, leap year, 30-day months, etc. is also a plus. Subdial function is also selectable, displaying your steps or distance as a percentage of your daily goal. This worked well for me as it was easy to visualize and I must admit that I felt a flush of accomplishment when it hit 100% and sounded a brief victory chime.

I was worried the the Move's Bluetooth connection would rapidly drain my battery, but such was not the case. The watch will hold 7 days of data so there is no need for frequent transfers. Once a day should suffice unless you want to review your totals throughout the day. Regardless, the watch connects and releases each time. Unlike most other fitness devices, the Timex relies on regular disposable watch battery that is good for a year. This means you can wear the watch all the time without missing data while it sits on a charger instead of your wrist. Of course, this brings up the problem all watch collectors have with fitness watches; they are only useful if you wear them all the time. Those of us who frequently switch watches will not get the most from a data logger unless we wear both watches at once. I know people who double-wrist for this very reason, but they are a tiny minority.

This was my first and only experience with a fitness watch, so I have no real frame of reference for most of its data logging functions. Perhaps that is not a bad thing. Die-hard health nuts will likely want a more sophisticated device like the Apple Watch, whereas I suspect the average Move buyer will have a more casual approach to fitness tracking. I really appreciated being able to set up and master the iQ+ software in a matter of minutes and was satisfied with the data it logged. If you just want an attractive watch to gather some basic health data, and you don't want to spend a small fortune for it, the Move will be perfect. ⬩

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Nodus Trieste

April 13, 2017, 9:30 pm

≫ Next: BOLDR Odyssey

≪ Previous: Timex iQ+ Move

Cullen Chen and Wesley Kwok of Nodus Watches have just launched their debut piece, the Trieste, an affordable, 200m, automatic diver's watch that can go longboard to boardroom and back. Have we heard this before? Of course we have. That may very well be the most common and yet the most difficult design brief in all of watchdom because just about every micro, independent, and mass-market heavyweight have produced a similar offering. The fellows at Nodus think the Trieste has what it takes to survive in this crowded field, and the sent me a pair of press loaners to prove it.

Many watches in this genre take their cues from the Rolex Submariner but Nodus appears to have channeled the Blancpain Bathyscaphe. I wouldn't go so far as to call it an homage so much as an inspiration. The Trieste is a single model available in a choice of two finishes (steel or PVD black), three bezels (black, red, or blue), and two movements (NH35a or STP1-11). The dial is only offered in black with a date window option. I received two watches that covered almost everything, one of each movement: a steel/blue/date and a black/red/dateless.

The Trieste has a 41mm stainless steel case with long, tapered lugs that curve gently away from the barrel and terminate in tight, clipped ends. Spacing is 20mm and the lugs are drilled for easy spring bar release. The case sides are flat and horizontally brushed with an intentionally pronounced grain that is offset by a narrow, polished chamfer that runs their length. The upper surface is brushed north-south as is the link bracelet. These surface effects are also apparent on the black version, lending subtle depth to the otherwise stealthy case.

Overall length is 50mm and it is 13mm thick. It is a stately design that is nicely executed. All the edges are crisp without being unpleasantly sharp and the arc and taper of the lugs eliminate unnecessary bulk. It was an easy fit under my shirt cuffs and looked perfectly appropriate on my modest wrist.

Atop this case is a double-domed, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal surrounded by a unidirectional bezel with a cleanly defined coin edge. Bezel action is reassuringly firm, moving through its 120 detents without wobble or back play. The insert is sapphire with a BGW9 SuperLuminova dive timer. This is a huge plus in my book. I always appreciate a little something special in terms of bezel design or materials, and this glossy beauty delivers appealing gloss and depth of color.

Like the bezel, the signed crown is also cut with a deep coin edge. It operates without fuss, screwing down smoothly, and is large enough to afford easy grip without protruding too far from the case.

As mentioned above, you can choose the dial in any color you like so long as it's black. Given the case and bezel options, this is not quite as limiting as it may seem. It also helps that Trieste has an exceptionally handsome dial. Again, you can see some Bathyscaphe in the applied, polished, and lume-filled wedges and circles that mark the dial, the brushed rehaut, the polished syringe hands, and even the 4:30 date window. Yet the Trieste still manages to go its own way. The wedges are far longer, particularly pronounced at 12:00, and those long hands are small at the base and fan out towards the end. It is a distinctive look that produces some fun interplay when the hands and markers meet. The second hand is a vintage paddle shape with a diamond tail. Like the other hands, it is long enough to overlap its markers.

Dial text is another area where Nodus's attention to detail shines. Now, I'll admit that I have become a bit of a nut about this, but it drives me crazy when a dial is overloaded with useless verbiage, or the text is printed in a generic typeface, or when they splash a huge logo and brand name over it. It should be obvious that everything you put on a watch face affects the whole, so why would you half-ass it? Ok, my rant is over. Nodus did it right. The overlapping chevron logo is attractive and proportionate. The brand name uses a broad, finely rendered typeface that is repeated in the yellow model name and the diminutive water resistance rating that fits neatly beneath it. It's perfect.

You really can't go wrong with either of the Trieste's engines. Swiss Technology Production may not be familiar to most affordable watch aficionados, but that will change. A wholly owned subsidy of the Fossil Group, STP produces Swiss made movements at its Lugano factory. The STP1-11 is an ETA 2824 alternative. It hacks and hand winds, has 26 jewels, a 44-hour power reserve, and a 28.8k bph rate. It is also decorated with perlage bridges and a Côtes de Genève rotor, but you will have to crack open the Trieste's solid caseback to appreciate it. A Trieste with the Swiss automatic is a very reasonable deal for $500.

If you can live with slightly lower specifications, and can forgo the STP1-11's silky sweep and hidden decorations, then the NH35a option may be the one for you. This movement is a tried and true evolution of Seiko's venerable 7s26. It is tough, known to just about any watchmaker, and inexpensive to repair or replace if need be. It has 24 jewels, a power reserve of over 40 hours, a 21.6k bph vibration rate, Diashock isolation, and hacking and hand winding capabilities. Best of all, an NH35 equipped Nodus sells for just $350, making it the obvious choice if you want the Trieste's charm on a budget. It is worth mentioning that the sweep of the second hand is the only outward manifestation of the movement inside. There is no other label or indication to set them apart.

Strap and bracelet options vary depending on finish. The brushed stainless version comes on an oyster-style bracelet with solid end links, tapering to a signed flip-lock clasp. The links are secured with single ended screws so sizing was a breeze. I removed four links to fit my 6.5" wrist without the need to move the micro adjustments in the clasp. The black model came on a gray and black nylon NATO with matching hardware. Buyers will also get a two-piece canvas strap color matched to the bezel, but this was not available at the time I got the sample. The black case certainly looks cool with the dark red bezel, and it will pair nicely with a number of straps, but in terms of value, I must give the brushed stainless version and its bracelet the nod.

The Nodus Trieste is a delightful take on the traditional diver. Clearly, its designers had a keen eye for aesthetic detail and it shows in the final product. Regardless of which options you choose, you will be rewarded with a handsome watch for a very appealing price. For more information or to order your own, go to NodusWatches.com. ◆

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BOLDR Odyssey

April 16, 2017, 10:41 pm

≫ Next: Microbrand Watch Facebook Group Survey

≪ Previous: Nodus Trieste

Mail call! The BOLDR Odyssey prototype landed at Time Bum headquarters just in time for its April 15 Kickstarter launch. I was a fan of their first watch, the Journey (in fact, if you want to win one, head here) and the guys at BOLDR were good enough to send me this Odyssey White Storm prototype for review, although you should keep in mind that this one has seen some use, so it bears some scratches and nicks. If I'm not mistaken, I'm the first blogger in the States to lay hands on one, so you lucky readers are getting a scoop. Now, I won't keep you in suspense. I dig this watch. Here's why.

The Bum faithful know that I am always on the hunt for smaller watches. Not tiny ones, mind you. It's just that with a 6.5" wrist and a fondness for vintage aesthetics, I gravitate to watches that are under 42mm. That said, I own several pieces that range from merely large (the 43mm Spinnaker Cahill) to positively Brobdingnagian (the bricklike 47mm Trintec Zulu-07). I wear them because they are casual, fun, and they make sense within their genre. To my mind, a 44mm tool watch makes perfect sense where a 44mm dress watch does not. It's partly a matter of context, and partly a matter of execution.

When I previewed the Odyssey, I praised its overall looks but questioned its girth. This was not unreasonable given that it is 45.5mm wide. Moreover, chiseled cases and hefty bezels are not exactly slimming. Could it really pull off these proportions? In short, yes. As fat as those faceted lugs may be, they are also short, keeping the lug-to-lug to 53mm, which is just enough to stay within the confines of my 6.5"wrist. Also, when we look at watches, we tend to see the dial first and the case after, so dial diameter is often the critical factor in our perception of size. On this watch, the broad unmarked bezel serves to shrink the watch when viewed head-on.

One point on the size worth mentioning is the thickness. Even in photos, it is obvious that this is a fat watch. The initial press release said it was 14.2mm thick. The Kickstarter page says it is 12.2mm thick, which is clearly an error. The precision instruments at Time Bum Labs show that it is nearly 16mm from the case back to the crystal. That is mighty thick - not unreasonably so, and it is in keeping with the rest of the watch, but if you ordered this expecting to wear it under a shirt cuff, you might be disappointed.

The Odyssey is a 500m diver and is properly equipped for the task. It features a triple-lock screw down crown, screwed-in case back, helium release valve, double domed and anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, and a 120-click unidirectional bezel. A Seiko NH35 handles timekeeping duty; the familiar 24 jewel, hacking and hand winding automatic with a 40+ hour power reserve, 21.6k bph vibration rate, and Diashock isolation. There are three versions for sale: Deep Blue (brushed/blue), Ever Black (black/black), and White Storm (brushed/gunmetal/white).

Its stainless steel case is octagonal, although its two sides are slightly bowed to flow around the bezel, softening the body's otherwise hard angles and straight lines. It is mostly brushed with the exception of a polished sliver on the crown guards. This unexpected bit of flash highlights the aggressive crown, which is a treat in an of itself. It has a split design with eight peaks and a debossed logo, but my favorite aspect is the way its outermost edges taper, accentuating its gear-like teeth and creating a more interesting shape the than the common fluted cylinder.

To my eye, the Odyssey's bezel is its most striking feature. I love its porthole look. Tall, deeply scalloped, and studded with raised discs, its circular elements are juxtaposed against the hard angles of the case. Like the crown, its teeth are chamfered. The action is smooth and a bit quieter than most. There is no back play. Still, as much as I like the bezel, it is also the source of my few criticisms of this watch. As grippy as it appears, the angled edge actually denies your fingertips purchase. Also, while the dark gunmetal DLC finish on the White Storm looks fantastic, really standing out against the brushed case and making the dial pop, it is also susceptible to damage. Tough as DLC might be, a good impact will nick it. Apparently, the prototype has taken a couple of prangs on the edge, revealing the bright metal beneath. Of course, choosing the uncoated Deep Blue version would eliminate this problem.

BOLDR went the extra mile on the case back, commissioning an illustration by Melbourne artist Ashwin Royan, depicting a sailboat on the ocean under the night sky, heavily stylized in a manner reminiscent of a woodblock print. It's a deep, clean casting in high relief and a welcome change from the divers and fish that we usually find on this kind of watch.

A brushed rehaut surrounds the white dial. The polished hands are long enough to touch their markers and broad enough to provide a good fill area for the Superlume, which also graces the dots-and-bars markers that stand proud of the surface. The white lume glows green except for the top center mark on the bezel, which glows blue.

Hour markers are ringed in black like the printed index and text. Let's talk about that text because there is a lot of it: logo and brand name up top; model name, "Automatic," and water resistance at the bottom; "Japan Mov't" at 6:00; and, "Helium Escape Valve" and "Triple Lock Crown" on the rehaut. That is more information that one generally requires and it could have been a good way to ruin an otherwise pleasant dial. Yet somehow, it works. The BOLDR "B" logo is slightly smaller than the double bars at 12:00 so it does not overwhelm. All the text shares the same typeface as the brand name, an attractive Art Deco sans-serif similar to that used by Bremont and Marloe. The model name in the lower half of the dial is stacked in progressively smaller type so that it fits roughly within the width of the brand name, balancing the words and image in the upper half. Below it is a black-on-white date window in the space that would have otherwise been occupied by a 6:00 marker. The phrases on the rehaut are a bit of overkill, but fortunately, their black printing blends into the brushed metal so they hardly register. Altogether, it is a detailed and well-planned watch face.

The watch ships on the buyers choice of 22mm straps: a 1970's style polyurethane, or thick leather like on the prototype. I'm a hypocrite when it comes to dive watch straps. I firmly believe that any watch marketed for underwater use should come with a waterproof strap. At the same time, I don't dive, and most of the diving watches in my collection haven't even been so far as the beach. The BOLDR solution is ideal. The synthetic rubber option will satisfy both the folks who will use the watch as intended, as well as nit-picking snobs like me, who will then turn around and order the leather because it is comfortable, looks cool, and comes with a smooth signed buckle.

On the Kickstarter page, BOLDR describes the Odyssey as "understated." That would not be my choice of words. This big brute is far too aggressive for that label, but it is very nicely done. I would call it bold, brilliantly executed, and an excellent value for the money; MSRP is about $379 USD and Kickstarter early bird pricing starts at just $269 USD. I think that is a great price for this piece and apparently, I'm not alone, as the campaign has already funded with 44 days yet to go. If you would like to see for yourself, head over to the BOLDR Odyssey Kickstarter page. ⬩

↧

Microbrand Watch Facebook Group Survey

April 16, 2017, 11:00 pm

≫ Next: Manchester Watch Works Battenkill and Morgan Monaco

≪ Previous: BOLDR Odyssey

Like microbrand watches? Then yourself and the microbrand watch community a favor. Head over the Facebook and join Adam Sofineti's Microbrand Watch group and join. Once in, you will find brand owners, bloggers, and other watch enthusiasts geeking out. More importantly, you will be able to participate in the Microbrand Watch Survey. The survey is intended to capture demographics, buying preferences, and other useful information. It's a painless process that can help shape the next generation of microbrand watches. Who knows? You might learn a little something yourself. ⬩

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Manchester Watch Works Battenkill and Morgan Monaco

April 17, 2017, 10:09 am

≫ Next: April Watch Pre-orders

≪ Previous: Microbrand Watch Facebook Group Survey

Manchester Watch Works has just released two new variants in their popular Trench Watch and Morgan Racing Chronograph lines. As I have reviewed both of these in depth before, I'll just hit the highlights.

Manchester Watch Works Battenkill and Morgan Monaco

The Battenkill

Manchester's Trench Watch series has been a runaway success and for good reason. Its polished stainless steel case is 40x47x11mm – an ideal size for a dress to dress casual watch. A 100m water resistance rating means it can handle most wet activities. Curved sides, a domed sapphire crystal, and wire lugs (containing modern spring bars) give it a timeless elegance. This combination makes it an excellent all'rounder.

The Battenkill has a classic motoring theme, borrowing its design from Depression-era dashboard clocks. Its dagger hands, vintage SuperLuminova, and textured small seconds on the black dial really capture the mood. Like previous Trench Watches, it has a reliable Miyota 8245 automatic with a 42-hour power reserve and 21.6k bph vibration rate. It also has a coin edged, screw down crown at 4:30, which has been enlarged to 6mm. This is a welcome improvement as the smaller crown on previous versions could be hard to pinch.

The Battenkill sells for $270 and comes on a 20mm tan leather strap with a signed buckle.

The Morgan Monaco

A true racing chronograph, the Morgan has a 40x48mm brushed stainless steel case with a polished edge, and a raised and beveled sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. 100m water resistance provides more than ample protection for most sporting activities. It runs an IsaSwiss 8371 quartz with a 5-year battery life and a smooth 1/5 second sweep. At first glance, it appears to have two registers (30-minute and small seconds) as the contrasting sub dials jump out at you, but there is also a more subtle elapsed hours indicator at 6:00.

The Monaco takes its name from the iconic Heuer chronograph of Steve McQueen fame, and shares that model's white on sunray blue color scheme but that is where the similarities end. The case and dial more closely resemble the Zenith El Primero, and that is not a bad thing at all. I have seen the previous black/black and white/brown Morgans, and I own a silver/blue. All are attractive, but this new blue/silver is by far the prettiest of the bunch. The red second hand and silver "eyes" really pop against the deep, shimmering blue dial. BWG9 SuperLuminova keeps things lively at night.

Manchester Watch Works Morgan Monaco wrist

The Morgan Monaco sells for $290 and comes with a 20mm quilted black leather strap. Manchester bills it as a "burnout pattern" but to my eye it is more like a late 60's sports car interior. Whichever, it is lovely and a nice departure from the more common rally straps.

Both of these models are limited editions, so if you should act fast if like what you see. For more information, or to order your own, head over to ManchesterWatchWorks.com, and while you're at it, get 15% off any item through May 31, 2017 with code TIMEBUM2017. ⬩

Manchester Watch Works Battenkill and Morgan Monaco Lume

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April Watch Pre-orders

April 22, 2017, 8:02 am

≫ Next: Giveaway: Thomas Earnshaw Bauer Shadow Skeleton

≪ Previous: Manchester Watch Works Battenkill and Morgan Monaco

Yep, it's time for another collection of new and noteworthy watch releases. There is some pretty interesting stuff available for order or pre-order right now. Since my last roundup, I've featured new releases from Manchester Watch Works (use TIMEBUM2017 for 15% off), BOLDR, Nodus, Trintec, NTH (use TIMEBUM for $25 off), McDowell Time, Marloe, Vario, and Geckota. Today, I've got a whole slew of new ones for your consideration. These are the watches that have caught my eye for reasons good and ill. Mostly good. Mostly.

(All photos courtesy of the brands)

Baltic

The new Parisian microbrand, Baltic, has taken to Kickstarter with a pair of 38mm mechanical watches. I think the world needs more watches like this and as of today, at least 850 backers agree. The watches feature 1940's inspired step cases, domed acrylic crystals, and tastefully subdued dial designs. The Bicompax 001 uses the SeaGull ST19 hand winding chronograph while the HMS 001 has a Miyota 821 three-hand automatic. Rewards are going fast, but you can still get an HMS for $317 USD and a Bicompax for $507. The campaign ends May 17, 2017.

Erroyl

From Australia, we have Erroyl's latest model, the Duke. This classy aviator is the company's first Swiss made watch. It has a 39mm case, ETA 2824-2 automatic movement, sapphire crystal, BWG9 SuperLuminova, a jubilee bracelet, and Erroyl's signature textured dial. The watch will cost $999 AUD when stocked, but early buyers can order one for $799 AUD ($602 USD) through April 30. Early order pricing will increase in May and again in June.

Irreantum

The New Jersey natives behind Irreantum have returned from a long hiatus to release a new and improved version of the original Magellan diver's watch. It features a 45mm bronze case, sapphire crystal, C3 SuperLuminova, applied markers, an awesome sawtooth bezel, and a 600m water resistance rating. Inside, is the reliable Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic. Sadly, it looks like this one is struggling, showing only 7 backers with 15 days to go. I suspect the $800 price tag might be a factor here, but it seems a shame. I hope this one finds its funding in another manner.

Minuteman

Illinois watchmaker, Minuteman, just debuted their Alpha and Bravo field watches. Their 42mm, black DLC cases are water resistant to 200m and feature double-domed, AR coated sapphire crystals and screw-down crowns. Inside, you will find a smooth and reliable Miyota 9015 automatic. The watches ship on nylon NATO straps. Minuteman assembles them right here in the USA. You can place your pre-order directly through their site for $430 USD ($200 off full price) and know that 25% will go to charities benefitting veterans and their families.

REC

Copenhagen's REC turns salvaged cars into unique timepieces. I reviewed the Morris Mascot (Danish Mini) based MK I back in 2014. They followed that act with the Mini Minimalist, and the P-51 made from a 1964 Ford Mustang. With the 901, they have recycled a Porsche 911. True to form, the watch channels the essence of its donor without looking like a caricature. The dashboard dial and "air-cooled" vents on the 44mm case are cool, but the Fuchs alloy case back really steals the show. The 901 has a sapphire crystal, a sports seat styled strap, 100m water resistance, and a Miyota 9100 automatic with power reserve. There are only 8 days left in the campaign and early rewards are long gone, but you still get one for about $995 USD.

Regia

Regia has been busy turning out an impressive array of custom and colorful dials for their Armare Regatta watches, but they have taken some time to create an all-new model, the Armour Fish. This 50mm brute has a lugless puck style case, 2:00 crown, and removable shroud. It is equipped with a domed sapphire crystal, helium release valve, C3 lume, and a Seiko NH35 automatic movement. Water resistance is 600m. Each Regia diver will come with an extra shroud and a heavy 24mm nylon NATO strap. This is a lot of watch. I see elements of Seiko SBDX "Emperor Tuna" and Stevral Megalodon in here, and I am curious to see what it is like in person. You can pre-order directly from Regia Timepieces now for $420 USD, $100 off expected retail.

SD-09

The SD-09 Spacecraft Watch was inspired by science fiction and sports a UFO sub dial. It is 42mm across, runs a Miyota 8218 automatic, has a sapphire crystal, and looks... well... not really futuristic at all. I just don't see anything spacey about a Panerai-style crown lock and about a dozen exposed screws. These strike me as rather old-fashioned and not even in the Flash Gordon retro-futuristic sense. The watch closing in on its funding goal so maybe it's just me, but I just don't get this one. If it grabs you, then head over to Kickstarter and jump on the $232 USD early bird.

TC-9

We've seen some interesting items from London's TC-9, like the Brass Pilot and the bronze turtle case 1970's Diver. Their latest, the Navy Watch, is a novel take on the Panerai Radiomir, made from what appears to be the same distinctively red bronze used on their 1950's and 1970's Divers. It is 42mm wide and equipped with front and rear sapphire crystals, a Seiko NH35A automatic, and is rated for 100m water resistance. Buyers may choose from several sandwich dials: Arabic numbers in brass, brown, or green fade; and black or brass California. Each has a layer of SuperLume beneath. Crowns are black or brass plated. I'm digging the green, but the raw and scratched brass has some serious charm. Best of all, this watch is crazy cheap; early bird rewards start at only $206 USD.

Werenbach

Now, this is something you don't see every day - watches made from rocket parts. The Werenbach Earth Collection consists of five Spaceborne models cut from different sections of a Soyuz MS-02 that was launched in October 2016. The boosters, engines and other jettisoned parts were collected in Kazakhstan. These 40mm single- and dual-crown designs bear the scars of space travel on unfinished dials brimming with information. They have a Seiko NE15 automatic, sapphire crystal, 50m water resistance, and a nylon and rubber two-piece strap. I love their industrial instrument look and the launch sequencer scales on the dual-crown models. As of today, pre-orders range from $546 USD for the Model 1 to $771 USD for the Model 5. The campaign ends May 29, 2017. ⬩

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Giveaway: Thomas Earnshaw Bauer Shadow Skeleton

April 25, 2017, 10:03 am

≫ Next: Preview: Collins, The Bronson

≪ Previous: April Watch Pre-orders

It's time for another Time Bum Giveaway! This month, you can win a Thomas Earnshaw Bauer Shadow Skeleton mechanical watch. This is the review sample from my February 14, 2017 post. It has an ARV of $587 USD.

All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight May 24, 2017.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law.

You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter.

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good Luck!

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Preview: Collins, The Bronson

May 1, 2017, 9:47 pm

≫ Next: One Second Closer, "The Shark Classic One" Amphibia Bezel

≪ Previous: Giveaway: Thomas Earnshaw Bauer Shadow Skeleton

Watch designers find inspiration in a great many things: automobiles, aircraft instruments, even espresso machines. When Jimmy Collins decided to design a watch, he found his muse in the recording studio he had recently built in Los Angeles. That watch, The Bronson will be released on Kickstarter today.

I have yet to lay my hands on one, but I like what I've seen so far. Audio equipment has its own particular aesthetic that places a high value on legibility and functionality, both of which should translate well to a timepiece. The Bronson is essentially a Nav-A type flieger layout with Arabic numbers and dagger-like lozenge hands, but its style diverges from there. The navigation triangle at 12 o'clock is more of a pronounced arrowhead. The numbers are rendered in an appealingly retro typeface that is tall and slender with slashed zeros. The second hand looks like the needle on a volume unit indicator. The final audiophile touch is a volume knob crown.

Collins has placed several lines of text on the dial, printed in the same typeface as the numbers. A white-on-black date disc is neatly incorporated into a bracketed window at 3 o'clock, neither crowding nor displacing anything else on the dial. It is all neatly proportioned. My only criticism is that the "The" placed over the model name looks lonely all by itself. I would have preferred if it was left off entirely, but that is a minor quibble. The dial is only available in black with creamy Old Radium SuperLuminova, which is an appealing combination. I fear the black second hand with its tiny lumed tip may be difficult to read, but I will reserve judgment until I see one in person.

The case is 40mm wide, 48mm long, and 12mm thick with an AR-coated sapphire crystal and either a bead blasted matte silver or PVD black finish. Silver watches have solid case backs engraved with the Collins logo, although it is different from that on the dial. Black models get a display window. The Bronson is rated for 100m water resistance. Inside, you will find a workhorse Seiko NH35A automatic movement. All the parts are produced overseas; final assembly and testing is done in the US.

The watch will come on the buyer's choice of 20mm strap: military nylon Zulu, or distressed leather. Both options will have hardware that matches the case. For an extra $25, you can have both.

Overall, the Collins has a fairly subtle design theme, and that is good. Nothing about The Bronson screams "music." Instead, the sound gear inspiration merely offers just enough of a distinctive touch to set the watch apart from the rest of the flieger and field watch crowd.

Kickstarter pricing is very aggressive; rewards start as low at $225 for the earliest of early birds and rise to a high of just $345 for the final tier of the campaign. If you've been looking for a new spin on the familiar flieger, then the debut Collins might be the right watch for you. Head to the Collins Kickstarter page for more. ⬩

All photos courtesy of Collins.

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One Second Closer, "The Shark Classic One" Amphibia Bezel

May 5, 2017, 10:12 pm

≫ Next: Preview: Cobra de Calibre Molon Labe

≪ Previous: Preview: Collins, The Bronson

Regular readers know I love the cheap and simple Vostok Amphibia. I've owned three, including the fan favorite "Scuba Dude" dial in the 40mm 420 case, and a beefy 41mm 090 tonneau. I've modified the Scuba Dude with an aftermarket bezel from Murphy Manufacturing and decided it was high time I did something similar to the 090. Through the magic of eBay, I discovered One Second Closer of Lodz, Poland and their intriguing array of replacement bezels. I ordered The Shark Black Classic One for $35 (plus $4.50 shipping).

The bezel arrived in about a week, along with a pair of bezel-insert-sized 3M adhesive strips and a handwritten thank you note. The Shark Classic is one of the few bezels offered that includes an insert and it is already fitted so the strips went into the Watch drawer for use on another project.

One Second Closer machines their bezels from 316L stainless steel, untike the Vostok's factory unit, which is plated brass. The surface is bead blasted but not the matte grey one would normally associate with the process. Instead, it retains a bit of sparkle, creating a finish that is remarkably close to that of the 090. It is larger than the original too, measuring 42mm across and a full 5mm thick. The teeth are awesome, deeply cut and very aggressive, but properly finished so there are no unpleasantly sharp edges. The black insert has silver printed markers an a lume pearl on top. The lume is about as good as the stuff Vostok uses, which is to say, not great, but you don't buy an Amphibia for lume.

Installation is the same same as I documented here. Use a case knife to separate the old bezel from the case. Wrap the blade in sturdy plastic to protect the surfaces, use a firm hand a steady pressure to pop the bezel free, then examine the scratches you made despite your best efforts. For the 090, I attacked it at 9 o'clock, which has the narrowest area between case and bezel so the resulting blemishes were hidden.

Once off, I noticed the sticky film of sea salt trapped under the bezel, and the first spots of corrosion inside. Hey, a $65 watch has got to cut corners somewhere.

The stainless case was I damaged, but I took the opportunity to clean it up. I removed the retaining wire from the old bezel, inserted it into the new one, and pressed it into place. Pro tip: if the bezel does not want to snap down, remove the wire and turn it upside down. That did the trick.

The new bezel looks positively badass although it is so tall that you lose the effect of the Vostok's domed acrylic crystal. Bezel action is loose, but that is to be expected. You can try to tighten it by playing with the tension of the wire, but frankly, once it was on, I had no interest in messing with it. In my experience, Amphibia's have two settings: too loose, or too tight. This was just fine by me.

Overall, I am impressed with One Second Closer. Shipping was quick, the price was cheap, and the product is far better than the original. With the Shark bezel and an olive cross-hatch leather strap from WatchGecko.com, the 090 looks amazing. If you have been looking for something to spruce up your Amphibia, I highly recommend it.

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Preview: Cobra de Calibre Molon Labe

May 7, 2017, 8:21 pm

≫ Next: Regia Armour Fish

≪ Previous: One Second Closer, "The Shark Classic One" Amphibia Bezel

John Lee of Cobra de Calibre has launched a new project on Kickstarter. The Molon Labe is a 43mm CuSn8 bronze case watch based similar to his earlier projects, but this time with a Ronda 782 quartz movement.

The Molon Labe features a domed sapphire crystal with an inner anti-reflective coating, 8mm screw-down crown, Swiss SuperLuminova, and a 22mm Crazy Horse leather strap. The cushion case is brushed and polished. It is rated for 100m water resistance.

Like other Cobra de Calibre watches, the dials are textured with applied markers and dramatic sword-shaped hands. Color options include green, black, and a particularly intriguing raw copper.

For $329 CAD, or about $239 USD, the Molon Labe is an appealing prospect. For more information or to order your own, check out the Cobra de Calibre Kickstarter page. The campaign closes June 1. ⬩

Photos courtesy of Cobra de Calibre

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Regia Armour Fish

May 12, 2017, 12:17 pm

≫ Next: Preview: David Paul Bronze Time Machine

≪ Previous: Preview: Cobra de Calibre Molon Labe

Regia Timepieces launched their first watch, the Amare Regatta, in early 2015 and I liked their quirky brass spin on a Panerai style diver enough to buy one for myself. Since then, Regia has turned out a wide range of inventive dial options for the Amare, including bold colors, gritty patina, and hand painted skulls. With such a creative, offbeat range I was surprised when they announced the relatively conservative Armour Fish. They loaned me a silver prototype for this review.

My initial impression was that this was a fairly safe design. Now, do understand that "safe" is a relative term here. By most objective measures, the Armour Fish is outrageous. Its removable shroud measures a full 50mm across and lug-to-lug, and the watch is 17mm thick. An enormous crown sprouts from the 2 o'clock position. The dial has big, toothy markers and fat, striated hands. It should be shocking, and no doubt it will be to those new to our hobby, but die-hard watch nerds will recognize the shrouded case as an homage to one of the most iconic dive watches, the Seiko "Tuna" diver. That dial is highly familiar as well; almost a dead-ringer for the Stevral Megalodon. So, yes, it is big and weird, but in a fairly well-established fashion.

Like the Amare Regatta, the Armour Fish runs a Seiko NH35 automatic. This sturdy, 24 jewel, 21.6k bph unit should be familiar to all micro brand fans by now. It hacks, hand winds, and is a very safe bet. It lives behind a screw-in case back decorated with a cartoon fish wearing a Renaissance jousting helmet and visor -- literally an armored fish. It's cute. Maybe a little too cute.

The Armour Fish is rated for 600m and outfitted to be a serious diving watch. It features a screw-down crown, unidirectional 120-click bezel, helium release valve, and a domed sapphire crystal. The removable shell serves the same protective function on the watch as it does on a mollusk or crustacean, and the Armour Fish comes with two: one is stainless steel with a black PVD coating, the other is brass. Both are attractive, but I am most interested in the brass. It didn't look as raw as any of my other brass watches. Instead, it had a matte finish without a trace of oxidation. The surface was so even, I checked with Regia to be sure it was not coated. They assured me that it was just brand new. I will be curious to see how it ages. A weathered patina on a Tuna case would look amazing. That could be the feature that really sets the Armour Fish apart from the crowd, but right now, it is too soon to tell.

Swapping is easy. Just remove the four retaining screws and the spring bars and the watch module comes right out. The naked watch barrel looks pretty cool in and of itself, but because the lugs are incorporated into the shroud, it is not possible to wear it that way. You could wear the shroud. I'm not saying this is a good idea, but it is possible. The stubby, almost hidden lugs contain the overall length, so the large watch is easy to wear, even on my 6.5" wrist. The lugs are drilled and fitted with fat, shoulderless spring bars.

The bezel has positive action and no wobble, but that big honking shell gets in the way. Like the Seiko, it is only open on the upper half of the bezel and on only two sides. It is an effective shield against accidental movement but affords little surface area for your fingertips. In fairness, I've had the same problem using similar Seiko designs. A more aggressive edge with teeth or deeper scallops would have helped immensely. The chunky crown, on the other hand, was a breeze to operate.

Legibility is not a problem on this watch, day or night. The blocky polished hands are sufficiently long and have fine needle tips that touch their markers. The bezel insert is engraved and the whole index is filled with lume. This is a welcome touch that is at once more attractive than a printed index and more useful than a single lume pip. You will notice a generous glow on the dial too, as the oversize hands and markers provide tremendous surface area for the C3.

It is certainly an attractive face, but it is not without its flaws. the text is rendered in the same painfully generic sans serif typeface as dozens of other microbrands. For some reason, the model name does not appear on the dial, just the word "Diver." I'd say it might be because they settled on a name late in the process (the press release referred to a "code name" and the website still calls it "Diver") but they obviously had the idea when they sketched the case back design. Finally, while the markers are certainly attractive, I cannot get over the fact that they look exactly like those of a well-known competitor. I like that Regia chose something other than the common diver dots layout, but I really wish they had done their own thing.

The Armour Fish ships on a 24mm Zulu with rectangular adjustment holes and a smoother, more pliable weave than most heavy weave nylon straps. Its thick stainless steel buckle is signed and removable, which will come in handy should you ever decide to fit your watch with an aftermarket strap.

So is the Armour Fish too much, or too safe? I'm going to say too safe. I don't mind the fact that it mimics the Seiko Tuna because Seiko will most likely never make a brass Tuna. On the other hand, the dial is disappointing. There is nothing inherently wrong with it, but Regia has done so many fun variants for the Amare Regatta that this derivative face is a letdown. I only hope they are willing to push the envelope in later versions. Regardless, the Armour Fish is a solid, well-equipped diving watch and a good value for its $520 list price, let alone the $420 pre-order price. If you want one for yourself, head over to Regia Timepieces and do it soon as that $100 discount only lasts until May 17, 2017. ⬩

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