The Time Bum

Australian newcomer David Paul Watches has just launched the DP-1 on Kickstarter. This 42mm bronze field watch features a double domed sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, and a Swiss automatic movement.

David Paul describes the watch as being inspired by mid-century military pieces and minimalist design. Affordable watch aficionados will notice similarities to the Lüm-Tec Combat, most notably in the fluted bezel and a military style face with sword hands and unequally sized numbers. The DP-1 replaces the 12 with a navigator's triangle containing the "dp" logo. I like the general layout but not the largely superfluous text and its generic typeface. Fortunately, they offer a more attractive sterile dial as well.

The case is bead blasted for a matte finish. Being bronze, you can expect a distinctive brown patina to form as the watch is exposed to the air and elements. A red pip marks the top, but it is not luminous, which strikes me as an odd choice on a tool watch, especially since the dial markers and hands are treated with SuperLuminova.

David Paul DP-1 Bronze Time Machine lume

Behind an exhibition case back beats Sellita's popular SW200-1. This 26 jewel movement hacks, hand winds, and has a 38-hour power reserve. A 28.8k vibration rate provides a smooth second hand sweep.

Early bird rewards start at just $365 AUD ($273 USD) and include a leather NATO with bronze hardware and a leather watch roll. A nylon Zulu is a $20 option. For more information or to order a DP-1 of your own, visit the David Paul Watches Kickstarter Page. The campaign ends June 4, 2017. ⬩

David Paul DP-1 Bronze Time Machine roll and case back

David Paul DP-1 Bronze Time Machine wrist shot

Two weeks ago, I introduced you to The Bronson, a new Kickstarter watch project from L.A. producer and designer, Jimmy Collins (CollinsBrand.com). I liked its novel military/hi-fi theme, so when Jimmy offered to lend me an early production watch for a thorough review, I was happy to oblige.

Collins Watch The Bronson silver bead blasted nato wrist shot

The Bronson is a mid-sized watch by contemporary standards, measuring 40mm wide, 48mm long, and 12mm thick. These are ideal proportions for my 6.5" wrist, offering sufficient presence without being oversized. I sampled it on both a heavy nylon Zulu and a 4mm thick oil-tanned leather. Both are of good quality, and the buff leather should age nicely as it picks up the scars and dings of use. I was able to wear the watch under a buttoned shirt cuff with the leather strap but noticed that it was the strap, not the watch, that was responsible for most of the bulk. Swapping a lower profile strap would provide an ever better fit.

Collins Watch The Bronson silver bead blasted leather wrist

Flat sides, a matte finish, and a no-nonsense flieger type dial let you know right away that The Bronson is a tool watch. A scratch resistant, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal and 100m water resistance back up its hardy appearance. Two finishes are offered: PVD black with a display window and bead blasted silver with a solid case back. I chose the bead blasted model for this review.

Collins Watch The Bronson silver bead blasted case back

Case back decoration consists of a Collins logotype. I say "a" and not "the" because there are two on the watch: one tall and narrow on the dial, the other in italicized script on the back. The script version appears to be a holdover from the Collins eyewear line that preceded the watches. While its retro style fits the vintage audio theme (consider, for example, the iconic "Marshall" logo), I can see why Jimmy went for the simpler typeface on the dial; however, the script "C" does make an appearance on the crown.

Collins Watch The Bronson silver bead blasted crown

One more note about the typeface. The tall, narrow numbers allow the 3 and the bracketed date window to coexist without crowding each other. Deftly avoiding what consider to be a major dial faux pas. Nicely done.

As I alluded earlier, The Bronson combines military and audiophile aesthetics. If in 1960, a tube recording console got freaky with an RAF-issued pilot's watch, The Bronson could be their love child. (Incidentally, there was a Collins Radio Company that produced recording equipment from 1932-1973, but it is unrelated to the watch.) Is it unorthodox? Yes, it is, but looks perfectly natural. From the large arrowhead at 12 o'clock and the exaggerated height of its typeface to its mellow Old Radium SuperLuminova and dagger shaped hands, it is a pastiche that works. The result is warm, nostalgic, and just different enough to catch your eye.

Collins Watch The Bronson silver bead blasted

For me, the volume knob crown is the high point of the design. It takes a close eye to notice it, and you will smile when you do. The only real miss here is the second hand. Meant to resemble a volume unit indicator, its thin black shaft disappears against the dial and the tiny spot of lume on its undersized tip does little to improve its visibility. My only other criticism noted in my preview was the arrangement of the text on the dial. Specifically, the lonesome "The" over 'Bronson." With the watch in hand, I still think the dial, and the model name, would be better without the superfluous article, but that is hardly worth mentioning.

Collins Watch The Bronson silver bead blasted nato

Inside, you will find a Seiko NH35A movement, a 24 jewel automatic with a 21.6k bph vibration rate, and a 41-hour power reserve. It hacks, hand winds, and has proven to be a reliable workhorse. If you would like a look at the innards in action, you will need to order the PVD case, but the mechanism is not fancy. I don't believe you are missing much with the silver model's solid case back.

I enjoyed my time with the Bronson. It is a handsome watch with neat design spin that creates a distinctive look without going overboard. Its mid-sized case will be an easy fit for most wrists. The price is right too. The earliest of the Kickstarter rewards birds have already flown, but you can still order the pictured steel model for $248, or the black one for $285. The nylon Zulu is an additional $25. For more information or to order you own, visit the Collins Kickstarter page by June 1, 2017. ⬩

Collins Watch The Bronson silver bead blasted buckle

On Tuesday, May 30, Fin Watches will open a Kickstarter campaign for their first model, a delightfully old-fashioned number called The Spire. Prices are not yet final but expect early bird rewards around $200 USD and an MSRP of about $400 USD.

The Spire is a trench watch design with a 41mm wide stainless steel case and wire lugs, much like a converted pocket watch although the lugs actually contain modern 18mm spring bars. Buyers may choose brushed or polished steel, PVD gold and rose gold, or matte black.

The dial is brushed with a guilloche center and three indexes separated by beaded rings. An antique serif typeface enhances The Spire's vintage style. Hours are Roman, while the others are Arabic, and the 24-hour index is italicized. A railroad track index surrounds the perimeter. Delicate blue skeleton hands span the dial, the fourth hand is red, as is the Fin. I have not seen it in person, but the renderings and photos look lovely.

Inside, a Ronda 515.24H quartz marks the time, but not in a manner you might expect. You see, that GMT hand isn't used for a second time zone at all. Instead, it ties to a 24-hour countdown index terminating with the French word "Fin" as in "end," or in this case, the end of one day and the start of the next. Is it useful? No, of course not. It's just a different way of looking at things and a rather clever way of seamlessly incorporating the brand name onto the dial.

Speaking of curious timers, The Spire also bears a pulsometer scale. Common on old doctor's watches, it allows you to calculate your (or your patient's) heart rate. This may have more practical applications than the countdown index, but I like it primarily for its novelty.

The watch comes with two straps, an 18mm minimally stitched leather two-piece and a 20mm NATO. The wider NATO is a good call, as pass-through straps can sometimes betray the spring bars on wire-style lugs.

It is always tough to judge a watch on pictures alone, but The Spire by Fin looks quite promising. I'd encourage you to check it out yourself on Kickstarter. (I'll update the post with a link when it goes live.)

Photos courtesy of Fin

Venerable Swiss watchmaker Alpina is no stranger to tool watches. They supplied watches for military pilots in the 1920's, developed water resistant models in the 1930's, and launched the first Seastrong diver in 1969. The Seastrong has seen several incarnations since then. The current line consists of the Horological Smartwatch, the Big Date Chronograph, the Heritage reissue, and the Diver 300 Automatic that Alpina loaned me for this review.

First, the specs. The Seastrong is a 44mm wide diver rated for 300m. It features a sapphire crystal, display case back, 120-click unidirectional bezel, screw-down crown, and luminous indices. The press loaner was a model AL-525LBG4V6B with a black dial, gray bezel, and a stainless steel bracelet. It lists for $1395 USD.

Alpina produces several in-house movements, but the Seastrong's AL-525 is not one of them. Instead, it is a modified Sellita SW-200. This 26 jewel automatic has Incabloc shock protection, a 38-hour power reserve, and a smooth 28.8k bph sweep. I don't usually care much for exhibition case backs on divers as they can complicate pressure resistance and the movements behind them tend to be more workmanlike than pretty, but the AL-525's Geneva stripes, blued screws, engraved black rotor, and high level of finish makes it well worth the look.

Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic case back movement

I'll confess that I was a bit put off when I saw the Seastrong had a 44mm cushion shaped case. The Time Bum is not a terribly big dude, and while I have no compunction about wearing oversized divers on the weekends, I usually can't pull off anything quite that large with my usual work week business suits. Also, in case you haven't noticed, I'm kind of cheap. If I'm dropping over a thousand bucks on a watch, I want to be sure it will get some quality wrist time. I'm pleased to report that the Seastrong fit the bill. Measuring 49mm long and 13mm thick, it certainly is not lacking presence, but it fit the confines of my 6.5" wrist and found its way under my dress shirt's cuff without issue. This is a good thing because while the this is certainly a capable diver, it is also quite handsome.

Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic wrist shot

The Seastrong isn't as square as most cushion case watches; in fact, I'm more inclined to paradoxically describe it as "round with corners." They aren't large corners, but they are there, flowing off of bowed sides to fill it out a touch. A shallow bump out on the left mirrors the low-profile crown guards on the right. Surface finishes alternate from the brushed top, to the polished sides of the lugs and barrel, to the brushed tables of the bumper and guards. The angular interplay works, creating a sophisticated, masculine silhouette that stops short of being blocky or slab-sided.

The large screw-down crown is polished with a black barrel and head. Its texture is not very deep, but it is sufficient to afford a good grip. It is signed with the Alpina red triangle logo. As expected, it operated smoothly.

Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic crown

Alpina took care to get the details right and nowhere is that more apparent than on the bezel. It has only six small patches of teeth to hold onto, but the action is flawless - smooth and firm without a hint of wobble or back play. A polished edge and a dark matte gray aluminum insert provide just enough contrast against the black dial and the satin finish on the upper surface of the case.

Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic bracelet

Both the bezel and the dial feature oblong markers that stand proud of the surface. All are filled with strong white lume, even those on the bezel. I particularly like the recessed lume pip inside the red triangle on the bezel. In fact, the famous red Alpina logo also appears on the crown and on the second hand counterweight.

The dial presents a clean and classy face. It's not too busy and restrained enough to cross over into dress-diver territory. Polished and semi-skeletonized sword hands carry lume at their tips. There are numbers on the minute index, but no hash marks in between. Text is limited to the Alpina brand name at the top of the dial, "Automatic" and "300M 1000FT" at the bottom. A white-on-black date window peeks through at 3 o'clock. Thanks to the large markers and generous application of lume, it is also highly legible, day or night.

Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic lume

I always tell my readers to "buy the bracelet, " and this is no exception. Several other Seastrongs come with a 22mm rubber tropic strap, but this one (and others with SKUs ending in B) has an excellent H-link bracelet that tapers to a 20mm push-button, butterfly deployant clasp. Following the finishing of the watch, the bracelet is brushed with polished center links. Its seamlessly integrated, low-profile clasp keeps the bulk to a minimum, further dressing up the watch.

All told, the Seastrong impressed me. Granted, some may take issue with the absence of a graduated index, but I am not among them. I even grew comfortable with its size. I still might have preferred it at 42mm, but the Seastrong carries its proportions nicely. The Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 is not a flashy piece, rather, it is solid and tasteful with top quality construction and a host of desirable details. For more information see AlpinaWatches.com. ⬩

It's time for another Time Bum Giveaway! This month, you can win a Timex IQ+ Move fitness watch. This is the very same sample from my April 9, 2017 post. As you may have noted from my post, it was worn very gently for the review. It sells new for $149 USD.

All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight June 30, 2017.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law.

You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter.

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good Luck!

Six Speed Dials is a Pennsylvania microbrand offering inexpensive, automotive-themed automatic watches. That is an almost irresistible combination for The Time Bum, so when they offered a review sample, I was happy to oblige. The each dial is drawn from a particular car's instrument cluster. Being a die hard Bimmerphile, I chose the Bavarian F8X, which pays tribute to the latest M models, with a mixed degree of success.

All of Six Speed's watches have a Miyota 8215 under the hood. This is a 21 jewel automatic with a unidirectional rotor, 21.6k bph beat rate, and a power reserve of over 49 hours. It does not hack and isn't as silky smooth as the popular 9015, but it is a sound movement that should provide years of hassle-free service. It is also cheaper than the 9015, which no doubt contributes to the F8X's outstanding $189.99 price.

Six Speed Dials Bavarian F8X Watch wrist

I don't have an M car, but I have owned a few BMWs through the years and know that the company's DNA is pretty strong stuff. Look at any model BMW and you will notice recurring design and engineering themes evolving over decades from one incarnation to the next. As a result, many Bimmerhead will instantly recognize a BMW design cue, and the F8X succeeds in this regard. The dial does indeed resemble a BMW tachometer with its red needles, charcoal gray dial, and its numbers and minute index arranged in an arc over a black wedge that occupies the lower section. The new M4 has the M-Technic logo on this wedge (at least under the speedometer); on the watch, it is the SixSpeed "6." Other dials in the SixSpeed lineup are equally faithful. The British MK1 resembles and old Smiths instrument, the Maranello resembles the lurid yellow speedo found in many new Ferraris, and the Stuttgart 991 is a spin on the generally stoic Porsche cluster. Oddly for a sporting watch, there is no luminous material anywhere on the dial.

The 42mm polished case sits neatly on my 6.5" wrist. The website claims it is 46mm long and a wafer-thin 6mm thick. This is incorrect. The precision instruments at Time Bum Laboratories found it to be over 48mm long and 11 mm thick. Flat sides and broad, round edges make it appear beefier than the dimensions suggest. Heavy, rounded lugs seem oversized for the case and terminate awkwardly in a flat wall on the inside. For me, this is where the watch begins to lose its appeal. There is no tension in this case design, nothing streamlined or aggressive. In short, it is no sports car. Rather, it is soft, almost overstuffed and the oddly shaped lugs seem out of proportion. Had the watch been an homage to the pontoon-fendered cars of the late 1930's, or the voluptuous excesses of the 1950's, it might have worked, but for a modern sports car or sedan, it misses the mark.

As a value proposition, the F8X is exactly the sum of its parts and no more. The $189.99 sale price gets you a good quality automatic movement, a screw down crown, and 100M water resistance. On the other hand, compromises include 306 stainless steel instead of the higher grade 316L more commonly used for watch cases, the aforementioned absence of lume, and an unpleasantly cheap looking leather strap (although it is a proper shade of Bavarian blue). The price is not bad, but other micros have done better for the money.

In the end, the Six Speed Dials Bavarian F8X was not for me, but if you find it to your liking, please see SixSpeedDials.com. ⬩

Six Speed Dials Bavarian F8X Watch strap

Have you got a little money and a lot of patience? Good. Because I've got let another roundup of delayed gratification deals for you. I've got a little bit of "must have it," a dose of "looks like a good deal," and a pinch of "wait, what the hell is that?" Enjoy.

(All photos courtesy of the respective brands)

Laventure Marine

This one stopped me in my tracks. The Laventure Marine is a modern spin on a 1960's diver and it is just gorgeous. The 41mm case is rated for 200m water resistance. The shape has shades of Patek Philippe Nautilus and shows off a lovely mix of finishes. It boasts a strong vintage vibe with a high domed sapphire crystal with inner AR coating, gilt hands, a vibrant ombré sandwich dial, and creamy beige lume. Even the Laventure logo looks like it comes from another era. The movement is a Swiss ETA 2824-2. In fact, Laventure claims 90% of the watch is Swiss, well above the legal standard for the Swiss made appellation. It is a perfectly lovely watch, but then there's the price... early bird rewards start at CHF 1570 ($1630 USD), 39% off full retail. Now, I understand Swiss production does not come cheap, but that is one hefty chunk of change to drop on someone's first Kickstarter campaign. Still, it is awfully pretty...

Mercer Lexington

Mercer Watch Company is taking pre-orders for the Lexington, a classically styled mechanical chronograph. Like the mid-century watches that inspired it, the Lexington is refreshingly small, just 39mm wide, and powered by the venerable SeaGull ST1901 column wheel movement, itself derived from the 1940's Venus 175.

It has a white dial, applied markers, and either silver or black sub-dials. A high dome K1 crystal completes the throwback look. You can pre-order one directly from Mercerwatch.com for $349. Full MSRP will be $529.

Kosmos 24

The three French fellows behind Kosmos 24 have turned their love of old Russian 24 hour watches into a three charming watches. Like the Soviet-era pieces that inspired them, they use a three-hand movement (in this case, a Ronda 515.24 quartz) on a 24-hour dial to counter the disorientation that can occur in environments without a defined day or night. Designed in collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, the watches are 37mm wide and just 8.4mm thick to the top of their domed sapphire crystals. Russian artist Anna Karakozova penned the bold avant-garde graphic dials. At a Kickstarter pre-order price of €124 ($138 USD), they are hard to resist.

Freeda Plano and SS36GT

Can't get enough retro watch design? Then here is another one. Two, actually, from Italy's Freeda Watches on Kickstarter. The Freeda Plano looks for all the world like a 1950's or 60's dress watch with a diminutive 35mm case, domed sapphire crystal, and applied numerals and darts. Unlike the watches of old, it is water resistant to 50m and runs a Swiss Ronda 1064 quartz. Pre-orders start at just €119 ($134 USD); 48% off expected retail.

The Freeda SS36GT is a sporty three hand automatic. It has a 40mm barrel case with front and rear sapphire crystals, a leather rally strap, and a Miyota 8215 under the hood. The only colorway is an appealing British Racing green sunray dial with yellow hands and accents. Early Bird rewards start at €169 ($190 USD); 52% off expected retail.

DELTAt Heavy Armor

The DELTAt Heavy Armor is a 1000M diver with all the goodies you would expect: helium escape valve, 120-click unidirectional timing bezel, AR-coated sapphire crystal, lumed index, and a solid Seiko NH35 automatic movement all wrapped in a burly 44mm case. Its signature element is the bezel, which features four sets of user-replaceable, interchangeable plates. I see where they were going with the idea, but I don't think it works. It's hard to tell without having the watch in hand, but in photographs, the plates look very similar and the markings are not very distinct. Because there is such little contrast, I can't imagine it would be of much use on an actual dive. Finally, I'm not too keen on removing and replacing 12 screws on six plates to get a slightly different look - particularly when I need a special tool to accomplish the task. It seems like a case of high effort, low reward. The Heavy Armor is selling on Kickstarter for $2490 HK ($320 USD), but as it is currently 41% short of its goal with only five days remaining, it does not look like it will be successful. The removable plate idea has promise, but I think it needs some work.

The Harambe Memorial Watch

As you may have guessed, the Harambe Memorial Watch pays tribute to the gorilla killed at the Cincinnati Zoo in 2016. They claim their design team spent "hundreds of hours" on this watch - only to scrap it for a complete redesign. That kind of time-wasting disaster seems like a weird thing to brag about, particularly when the result is a forgettable, "minimalist" quartz with an absurd oversized logo. Could there possibly be a better way to remember this noble creature? Well, you could give $100 bucks to an organization that actually protects gorillas like the World Wildlife Fund or the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, or maybe you could just spend that money on bananas for a year. Harambe probably would have appreciated that. He certainly wouldn't have given one hairy shit about this watch. ⬩

Looking for a good deal for dad, or for yourself? Well, you're in luck, because several watch and accessory brands are running sales this week, and The Time Bum is compiling them here. Keep checking because I'll be adding more to the list as they are announced.

BAU Watches - The BAU 963 is already on sale for $107, and you can get two for $192 with code LOVEBAU

Bertucci Watches - Free ground shipping

Carpenter Watches - 10% off everything with code FATHER

Christopher Ward - Use code 65SUN17 for $65 off purchases of $375 or more, and 125SUN17 for $125 off purchases of $625 or more, through June 30.

Deep Blue - Take 40% off with code DAD40

Florjin - Remaining stock is on sale for 40% off (€195/$201 USD)

Hemel - Get a $40 watch pouch free with watch purchase (no code required) and knock 10% off the price just by signing up for the mailing list.

Janis Trading Co. - Use Code DADS2017 for 20% off any in-stock Orthos or Phantom through June 19.

McDowell Time - 20% off with code FATHER20

Nodus - Take $30 off a Trieste with FATHERSDAY2017 and get free shipping with FREEESHIPPING

Stranger Watches - Take a whopping 50% off with code FATHERS50

Straton - Not strictly a Father's Day deal, but for 48 hours, get 10% off a VDC MK2 Automatic Chronograph with code VDC48. According to my email log, that means it ends Wednesday at 5:28 PM, US Eastern Standard Time.

Timex - 20% off and free shipping on orders over $50 with code IHEARTDAD

Todd & Marlon - Get one for you and one for dad. Use code TIMEBUM for 50% off through June 19.

Torgoen - Sale prices up to 35% off

Watches.com - In addition to sale prices of up to 75% off, use codes BESTDAD for 10% off orders over $99, SUPERDAD for 15% off orders over $350, and FAVORITECHILD for 20% off orders over $700.

Watch Bandit - Sale prices up to 50% off

Guest Post by the Christopher Ward Team

Founded in 2013, The Christopher Ward Challenger Programme ("Program"" for us Yanks) supports up-and-coming athletes. Today's Guest Post features a chat with adventure runner and CW Challenger, Jamie Maddison.

Over the past decade, explorer Jamie Maddison has been a rock climber, long distance horse-rider, hotel shift worker, newspaper reporter, shortlisted Feature Writer of the Year, indie print magazine co-founder, nominated National Adventurer of the Year, store assistant, the British-Kazakh Society's 'Person of the Year', 7 in 7 days marathon runner, desert traverser, ‪4:34‬ miler, shortlisted in the Travel Photographer of the Year Awards, talent manager, competitive pole vaulter and Christopher Ward Challenger.

He's lived and adventured with eagle hunters in Western Mongolia, ridden horses 800 miles across Kazakhstan, worked with nomads on the border of Afghanistan, ran with camel herders in Uzbekistan, found ancient artefacts in the high mountains of Tajikistan, come off several galloping horses, been irradiated, fallen down two cliffs, had a case of frost-related nerve damage, and exposed to who knows what on an abandoned experimental Soviet weapons testing facility.

As the newest addition to the Christopher Ward Challenger Programme, we caught up with Jamie to ask him a few questions about his wild adventures in Central Asia, and to get the latest update on his upcoming trip, a 100 mile ultramarathon across the Saryesik-Atyrau Desert in Eastern Kazakhstan.

Hi Jamie. First up, what exactly does a ‘explorer’ do these days?

Good question! Well, you’ll often hear that the world has been explored and that there’s nothing left, therefore you can’t possibly be an explorer. I disagree with that. What I’m trying to do with my travels in Central Asia is to focus on pockets of the world where no-one back home knows anything about it. Take my 7 marathons in 7 days run across the Betpak-Dala; before that trip very few people in the English-speaking world had ever heard of it, and certainly no more than a handful had ever visited it in modern history. And of course no one—Western or otherwise—has ever run across it before, because, why would you?

By running across that desert, I got a view of what the terrain was like, what that world was like; to develop a story which I could take back home and share. And that’s what I do in my day-to-day job’ I’m a digital storyteller. I only do exploration stuff when I can escape work.

What was the favourite adventure you’ve done so far?

Far and away the trip I’m most proud of was my unsupported horse-ride across Kazakhstan. Myself and a friend, Matthew Traver, rode for over 750 miles from the north of the country to the south, following in the footsteps of an old Anglo-Irish explorer, a man called Sir Charles Howard-Bury—exactly one hundred years from when he’d first set out.

The journey took us 64 days, and was fraught with difficulties, big sections of empty steppe to cross, a lack of food and sometime a lack of water too. It was the hardest challenge I’ve ever done, but I was very proud to finally finish it.

And you’re also quite a runner; what is it about running that you’re so attracted to?

Running is simply amazing for anyone with an obsessive, wilderness-loving mindset who find themselves confined to the big city. I started running because it seems like a great way of keeping fit in a time-constrained environment. But then I got really attached to the activity: you can literally step out of your door and subject yourself to that same flavour of physical and mental stress you’d expose yourself to on a big trip.

What running achievement are you most proud of?

Definitely the City of London mile race I did last year. It’s one single mile, 1760 yards, and I did it in 4 minutes 34 seconds. It was the hardest I’ve ever run; it felt like the world had caved in on itself by the time I reached the finish. Just pressure and pain.

And now you’re planning the complete opposite; a hundred mile ultramarathon, right?

Correct. The plan is, this September, to run across the Saryesik-Atyrau Desert. It’s situated in Eastern Kazakhstan, underneath a place called Lake Balkhash. The route has been measured, it’s just under 100 miles, and I’m going to attempt to run across it in one go, all in under 24 hours. I’ll have a support vehicle with me, but I’ll be the only runner, and we’ll have to navigate as we go. Hopefully, I will come back with some great stories from this journey.

Christopher Ward are supporting you on this journey through the CW Challenger Programme. What is it about watches that you find fascinating?

I’ve been a fan of horology for a while now. I’m even taking a clock repair course at the moment, trying to figure out how it all works! But yes, I love the Christopher Ward range and I’m proud to wear a C60 Trident COSC 600. It never leaves my wrist and I do all my runs in it. It’s completely replaced my digital GPS watch now; I much prefer running at my own pace and not having a flashing LED screen trying to force me to confirm to a set speed or distance.

How has the Programme helped you with this expedition?

‪Christopher Ward and the Challenger Programme have been instrumental in helping me bring this expedition to life. Not only have they supported the endeavor with funding for the logistics side of the trip, but the team have also completely inspired me.‬
Christopher Ward is a challenger brand, and I absolutely love their fighting spirit. It’s what I’m trying to emulate with this trip. I don’t have it all on a plate; I need to train harder than I have ever done before. I need to work hard and I need to hustle if I’m to create an expedition of true quality and merit. I think there’s a lot of crossover between our mission statements!

Okay, three quick-fire questions to finish: who’s your hero, name something interesting you’re working on currently (aside from the expedition), and what would your ultimate adventure be?

A. Douglas Carruthers
B. I’m currently writing a novel. It’s been ongoing for four years now; who knows when it’ll be complete.
C. A traverse of the legendary Chang-Tang plateau in Tibet. That would be a dream.

Thanks Jamie!

Jamie Maddison is a Christopher Ward Challenger and wears a C60 Trident COSC 600. You can also read more about the Challenger programme here.

At some point in your life, you are going to own a Timex. Maybe it's the first watch you own as a kid (like me), or that dirt cheap Weekender you buy on a whim (I did), or maybe you want a fitness tracker that doesn't look like a prop from Logan's Run (this one doesn't). They produce so many watches for so many purposes for such low prices, buying one is almost inevitable, and yet, whether because of their ubiquity or in spite of it, they are frequently overlooked by many watch nerds. That is a shame because they are missing out on some charming watches like this Timex Waterbury Chronograph.

Timex designed this collection to honor the company's 160-plus years in Waterbury, Connecticut, and in doing so, stayed truer to the vintage spirit than many luxury brand reissues. The line consists of a mid-century modern model, two Explorer variants, and a few military-inspired three-handers and chronographs. Timex gave me a TW2R24900ZA chronograph on a steel link bracelet, which retails for $139. Retro cues include a tall mineral crystal, muted dial printing, and the Waterbury logo in an old-fashioned script with decorative swashes looping from the "W."

Measuring 42mm wide, 13mm thick, and almost 52mm long, the chronograph is the largest model in the collection yet I still found it to be a nice fit on my smallish 6.5" wrist, thanks in no small part to slim tapered lugs that hook below the case. If you prefer a more traditional look, you can look you can choose a 40mm or 38mm 3-hand model instead.

Unlike many Timex models, the Waterbury's case is all stainless steel. It is water resistant to 50m and displays an impressive level of fit and finish. Radial brushing atop the lugs offsets the otherwise polished surfaces. There no unpleasantly sharp edges to be found, even between the lugs. Case sides are ever so slightly rounded, softening the overall appearance. Its chronograph buttons have broad, flat heads that extend beyond their shafts for more comfortable operation, and the crown is coin edged and proportionate. Neither the buttons nor the crown are signed but I wouldn't expect them to be at this low price point; however, the case back bears deep stamping that includes the early-American Waterbury logo.

Timex does not provide any details about the movement except to say that it is an analog quartz. It is a three-register chronograph: 30-minutes, 1/20th of a second, and small seconds. The first two are recessed, textured, and set high in the dial so the 30-minutes cuts off a bit of the 10 o'clock numeral. The small seconds is a printed partial crosshair at 6 o'clock with the model script below. The needles are polished and orange-tipped, including the sweep hand. Operation is straightforward. Pressing the top button starts and stops the timer. When stopped, the 1/20th is indicated. A push of the bottom button resets the 1/20th and the sweep hand to zero. The chronograph function will run for a total of four hours, after which it will automatically stop and reset. As is common on lower-end quartz chronographs, the buttons were mushy, lacking positive tactile feedback or crisp engagement, but I was pleasantly surprised to see the sweep hand hit its marks dead-on every time. I should also note that this is a quiet movement. Anyone who has ever owned a Timex Weekender knows its characteristic high-volume tick. Not so on the Waterbury, which went about its business without raising its voice.

The dial's layout combines Arabic numbers, blocks, a central triangle, and a bracketed 4 o'clock date window, lending the watch a military appearance, particularly when presented in this muted black and taupe color scheme. Timex also offers a beige face model as well as a vibrant blue for those seeking something more sporty. Polished sword and pencil hands underscore the vintage military look. They are filled with green-white lume, as are the four primary markers. It does not produce a particularly long lasting glow, but don't worry, the trademark Timex Indiglo pops to life with a push of the crown. You've just got to love Indiglo.

My only complaint about the dial is that the print quality is imperfect. It looks fine at a normal distance, but once I really pressed my nose into it, I could see voids and thin spots. It's not a deal-breaker, but certainly worth noting.

And now, we get to the bracelet. It tapers from 22mm end links to an 18mm clasp and looks nice enough with its brushed and polished links and signed bi-fold clasp. There are no micro adjustments, but plenty of removable links. Dropping five of them gave it a proper fit on my 6.5" wrist. Even so, I couldn't get it off the watch fast enough. I'm not going to sugarcoat this; it's awful. There is excessive play in the links and while I didn't expect the end links to be solid at this price point, I was disappointed to discover the center links are hollow as well, producing an unpleasantly tinny sound as they rattle together. It was easy enough to size, but one of the holes stripped and the pin promptly fell out. I would say it is of similar quality to the bracelet on a Vostok Amphibia, which is to say, junk.

The bracelet really lets the rest of the watch down. While die-hard watch nerds will no doubt ditch it for a strap and move on, most casual consumers will not. They will have the stock bracelet sized at the mall and as the flimsy piece wobbles on their wrist, it will tarnish their view of this watch in particular and Timex as a whole.

Of course, there is an easy solution to this problem, just buy a version on a strap. In fact, if you don't buy a strapped model, you might have a hard time getting replacement leather from Timex. The 42mm case takes a 22mm strap, but the widest strap on the Timex.com accessory page is only 20mm. Fortunately, Timex offers the Waterbury Chronograph on tweed and leather straps for the same price or less than the bracelet versions. For a $20 premium, you can even opt for a model on Red Wing leather. I did not have a Timex strap on hand, but a quick rummage through my strap drawer yielded a brand new, $14.95 Kvarnsjö leather two-piece from Cheapest NATO Straps. It seemed like a fitting choice given the budget nature of the watch, and indeed, the dark brown leather and white minimal stitch looked right at home.

I wore the Waterbury for the better part of a week, with watch nerds and civilians alike, and all commented on how cool it looked. Even seasoned watch idiot savants paid it complements. Personally, I enjoyed the heck out of it. It is a truly handsome piece, brimming with retro charm. For $139 direct from Timex it represents an excellent value that gets even better when you factor in the frequent discounts and sales the company runs. A quick Google search turned up several Waterbury Chronographs on leather for just under $100 shipped. Would I buy one myself? Absolutely.

If you haven't owned a Timex, or just haven't had one for a while, I highly recommend a Waterbury. Just forgo the bracelet. ⬩

I hate summer. Not everything about summer, mind you. I like warm weather, bright colors, and the beach. It's just that summer in Washington, DC is particularly oppressive. It is only June 22 and I am already sick of the stifling humidity, swarms of mosquitoes, and temperatures in the 90's. I was contemplating my next three months of self-imposed, air conditioned confinement when the fashionable folks at Squarestreet told me about their lightweight Planto watch and breezy Suplon strap. It looked like the ideal summertime accessory, so when they offered a loaner for review, I eagerly accepted.

The Plano is an elegant unisex watch that measures 38mm wide and 6.7mm thick. These proportions are on the small side for a modern men's watch and ideal for my 6.5" wrist. A broad dial that stretches to the very limits of the case prevents it from appearing too dainty. Inside this svelte stainless steel case is a Swiss made Ronda 705 three-hand quartz. This 5 jewel, gold plated workhorse has a date wheel, long-lasting battery, and an end-of-life indicator.

Squarestreet offers the Plano with black, gray, or gold PVD cases, and either black/gold, white/black/gold, or white/black dials. Strap options include Italian leather, reindeer, or Suplon nylon in a variety of colors. The review sample's matte gray case was a dark graphite color. There is a flat edge around the perimeter that sharply reduces to a much smaller case back, further minimizing its already scant profile. Slim lugs with rounded ends extend from the point where the edge and the slope meet and hook downward. The 3 o'clock crown is flat, coin-edged, and signed with the distinctive two-box Squarestreet logo. Surprisingly, the lugs feature screwed bars instead of spring pins. The watch does not come with a screwdriver, but it accepts a standard flat head.

The dial is an intricate affair, featuring a textured pattern of concentric rings that are tightly spaced at the outermost edge, broadly spaced at the indices, and tight again in the center. A second, smaller set of grooves surrounds the 3 o'clock date window, overlapping the primary rings. It is not immediately apparent at a casual glance, but it is delightfully trippy up close. Two-digit numbers in a radial arrangement mark the hours while another tiny set below them marks the seconds/minutes. It has long, slender, faceted dauphine hands and a second hand with a loop counterweight. Long hash marks extend through this index and into a second that at first look, appeared too finely demarcated to use. Upon close inspection, I realized that it was marked in 5-minute intervals, so if your eyes are sharp enough, you can read the time using only the hour hand. Very cool.

Overall, it is a clever and pretty dial, but I have a hard time recommending this gold-on-black color scheme. There is just enough contrast to get by during the day, but it is nearly impossible to read at night. There is only a single spot of lume at 12 o'clock and none on the hands, which strikes me as a rather odd and impractical choice. Finally, the black-on-White date wheel sticks out like a sore thumb. My suggestion would be a white dial with black printing and hands. That combination ensures sufficient contrast for readability under most lighting conditions and has the added bonus of matching the date.

As I wore the Plano, I found myself wondering if it was more of a dress watch or a sports watch. Its small size, fine lines, and absence of lume are hallmarks of a dress watch, but the screw bars, busy dial, and 50 meters water resistance lean more towards the sporty end of the spectrum. In sum, I'd consider it to be a versatile everyday watch that won't mind the occasional dip in the pool.

As interesting as the Plano may be, I was actually more curious about the Suplon strap. Suplon (for "super nylon") is a synthetic material knitted into a basketweave, two-piece strap that is 20mm wide and secured with a signed buckle and a single floating keeper. Squarestreet claims Suplon is machine washable, hypoallergenic, flame retardant, and eco-friendly. I can attest that it is wonderfully soft - far more comfortable than the nylon commonly used for most NATO straps. The material is breathable and the strap's open, diamond patterned weave ensures maximum air flow and almost infinite adjustability. I made no effort to destroy it, but it seems to be quite strong and had no loose edges or threads to unravel.

With all these features, the Suplon strap is an almost perfect summertime watch accessory. I say "almost" because while I appreciate the utility of the fabric, the style leaves me cold. I generally don't get hung up on the proper gender of watches, but this really looks feminine. If they make one in a heavier weave and a different pattern I'll be all over it, but in its current lacy state, I'll have to pass.

Overall, I liked the Plano, although my first choice would be a black-on-white version both for legibility, and better integration of the date wheel. The Suplon strap is a good idea, and possibly well suited for woman's watch, but the design was a bit to 1970'd crochet for me. You can buy a Plano direct from squarestreet.se. for $265 USD on either a Suplon or a reindeer leather strap. Individual Suplon straps are $35. ⬩

I first reviewed an ArmourLite IsoBrite ISO100 tactical field watch back in 2014, and despite my total absence of need for anything "tactical" or any desire to venture anywhere near the "field," I rather liked the buff bruiser and the near-limitless glow of its tritium tubes. Since then, ArmourLite has added some new versions and limited editions, including the skull face ISO3002 Night Enforcer they lent me for this review.

ArmourLite IsoBrite ISO3002 Night Enforcer Limited Edition

ArmourLite sells its watches for hard use in tough environments, and they've got the right specs for it: 200m water resistance, a sapphire crystal with an anti-refective coating, two waterproof straps, and more than adequate nighttime illumination (more on that later). The crown does not screw down, but its double gaskets do the job just fine. A Swiss Ronda 715Li quartz is another nod to endurance. Maybe it won't set our watch nerd hearts a-flutter like a high beat mechanical, but it will provide dead accurate time for 10 years with superior shock resistance, and no worry from magnetic fields.

ArmourLite IsoBrite ISO3002 Night Enforcer Limited Edition case back

Like ArmourLite Valor and Eclipse series watches, the Night Enforcer has a carbon fiber reinforced polycarbonate case with a stainless steel case back. Now, before you say, "Ew, plastic!" you should know that it really doesn't come off that way. Rapping the case delivers a reassuringly solid "thunk" and its black matte finish and crisp edges give it a quality look like the interior fittings of a high-end luxury car. The result is more Mercedes-Benz than Fisher-Price. It also has the advantage of being lightweight, which is a very good thing given the watch's generous proportions: 47mm wide, 52mm long, and 14mm thick. This is not what you would call a small watch, but the polycarbonate keeps its weight to a mere 3 oz.

The unidirectional timing bezel is easy to grip, and it snaps firmly into its 60 detents with zero wobble or back play. Its index is engraved and painted, although not lumed. Instead, it has two different color tritium tubes at 0 and 15, and if you haven't tried a tritium watch before, I can tell you that it is some dandy stuff. Here's the idea. Tubes are filled with a phosphor layer and tritium gas. As the gas undergoes radioactive decay, it emits electrons that cause the phosphor to glow. Unlike luminous paint, it requires no light source or charge to get rolling. Eventually, decays and loses power, but that process takes decades. The tubes are also in place on the hour markers, all three hands, and even the skull's eyes, because why the hell not?

Speaking of that skull, it certainly is the most noticeable feature on the dial, but not the only one worth your attention. A steep rehaut, cut away over the tritium markers, steps down to a sandwich dial of three stencil-cut numbers and skully himself, over a layer of gray lume. The minute and hour hands are also gray (paint, not lume), while the second hand is blood red. I wouldn't go so far as to call it subtle, but the black and gray motif does downplay it a bit. ArmourLite claims only about 5-10 minutes of green glow time on the gray lume, but I was able to eke about 20 minutes out a full charge. It's not terribly impressive, but typical of such a dark color. Of course, it really doesn't matter, because you are not relying on that to read your watch. Not when you've got tritium.

ArmourLite IsoBrite ISO3002 Night Enforcer Limited Edition lume

Here's how it goes. Zap your Night Enforcer with light and the conventional lume on the skull and numbers glows green, as do all the tritium tubes on hands, markers, and bezel. Those tubes might actually seem kind of dull compared to the pop you would expect from a quality photoluminescent material like SuperLuminova, but it appears brighter as the lume fades, as you can see in the photos. In total darkness, tritium is no slouch. Most watches use T25 tritium tubes, which contain 25 millicuries (mCi) of tritium gas. IsoBrites use T100 tubes with four times as much gas for a much more powerful glow. ArmourLite also predicts a longer life span than T25 tubes - about 50 years.

ArmourLite IsoBrite ISO3002 Night Enforcer Limited Edition wrist

The watch comes with two black 22mm straps: two-piece silicone and nylon NATO. The signed silicone was buttery soft and comfortable if a bit of a lint magnet. It is also rather generously long. A bit too long for my 6.5" wrist, but considering how big the watch is, I can hardly complain about that. Bigger guys with bigger wrists will appreciate it and will probably wear the watch better to boot. The nylon NATO was exactly as you'd expect although it does take a bit of persuasion to squeeze it under those short lugs as there is little space between the case and the spring bars. My biggest complaint is the brushed hardware on both straps. Come on guys, it's a black case with a phantom skull on it! It deserves a similarly stealthy black buckle.

Hardware matching aside, the ArmourLite IsoBrite Night Enforcer Limited Edition is a fun piece and a worthy accessory for your field activities, whether tactical or otherwise. It sells for $525 directly from ArmourLite.com. ⬩

One handed watches are weird. I'm not saying they are weird bad or weird good here. I'm just saying weird, as in offbeat or out of the ordinary. We all learned how to tell time on a conventional analog clock, and chances are, the device you are using to view this post is showing the time as a four-digit number. Generally, those two representations are all we need, but they are not the only ones out there. A growing number of companies are trying their hands (see what I did there) on watches with just one long hour hand on a finely graduated dial. I've featured such watches before, but I've not tried one myself. TACS decided to rectify this by sending me their Day and Night for review.

The watch is sensibly sized at 40mm although an expensive dial and slim bezel make it appear larger. Its lugs are long and curved so far below the barrel of the case as to show a couple millimeters of daylight between the case and the surface on which it rests. All surfaces are brushed except the back and the signed crown. At just 6.5mm the barrel is wafer-thin and is further narrowed by a fine channel bisecting its flat sides, and a steep reduction towards the case back. A faint sun/moon engraving on the left side is a clever detail. The case is rated for 50m water resistance.

The Day and Night uses a Ronda 505.24H quartz movement. In a typical set-up, this would drive four hands: hour, minute, second, and GMT. TACS strips all but the GMT. This black needle makes one trip around the dial every 24 hours, marking the time against a 10-minute index. The silver dial is divided by a recessed semi-circle in the lower half. The upper section is for the day with 12 noon at the top, and the lower section is for the night with midnight at the bottom. Note that midnight is represented as 00 and not 24. (I've always felt zero was more accurate as there is no "24:00" in 24 hour time.) A raised, open circle at the top and a raised, filled circle at the bottom, presumably represent the sun and moon. Both have circular brushing. The two sections are further emphasized by the smooth surface of the recessed section, contrasting with the horizontal brushing on the primary layer.

It really is a pretty dial. Everything is silver except the hand and the index. I love the use of different surface finishes to distinguish the different features. This is a device used on many older watches, and one I wish would make a comeback as it is a particularly pleasing effect. The branding or model name has been banished to the case back, so there is no text to spoil the dial's quiet equilibrium. There is no lume on the dial.

TACS Day and Night one-handed watch wrist shot

I found the Day and Night to be a good fit on my 6.5" wrist and it would fit easily under a buttoned shirt cuff if not for the leather NATO strap. I must say this is the weak link in the design. I have nothing against NATOs, but they do take up space, especially at the tail end, and the heavy leather on this particular strap does not fold easily over the bars. On an otherwise svelte watch such as this, that extra bulk fights the design. I'd suggest swapping a thinner pass-through or fitting a more tailored two-piece strap. The strap is 20mm wide with a signed 20mm buckle.

TACS Day and Night one-handed watch strap

So now that I had the Day and Night strapped to my wrist, it was time to put it through its paces as my timepiece of the day. Telling time on this watch was, shall we say, different. It is not that it was hard to read. The index may be small but it is clearly marked, and while I thought the tiny, 10-minute hash marks would be confusing, they were actually quite intuitive. Of course, you are never going to get down-to-the-minute precision with this watch. But "ten after" or "a quarter to" is all I generally require and that was easy enough to achieve here. My issue was with the 24-hour dial. Maybe it's my lack of military service, but "13:00" means nothing to me. For every hour after noon, I found myself thinking twice before I committed to the hour. This was compounded by the fact that the 24-hour layout meant the hour hand's placement almost never corresponded to its familiar position on a 12-hour dial. There was no glancing down to see 2 o'clock in the 2 o'clock position where it belongs. I'm sure that over time I would get used to it, but it would take some practice.

At this point, I should note that by changing the presentation of time, the Day and Night changed my perception of time, and that is the whole point of a watch like this. The hour hand seems to move with inexorable slowness compared to a standard 12-hour analog, and it was positively glacial compared to the minute-by-minute advance of a digital readout. Obviously, they are all reading time at the same pace, but the Day and Night does an excellent job of showing you the entirety of the day while all but erasing the minutes, leaving you with just the needle's leisurely travel from day to night and back. I get it, and over time, I would probably grow fully accustomed to it, but in the short term, it drove me a little crazy. Maybe I'm just wound too tight for a 24-hour one-hander. A 12-hour version might be a better choice for me.

The TACS Day and Night is a lovely watch and an intriguing exercise in time display, although clearly not for everyone. If you would like to give this novel timepiece a try, head over to tacs-image.com where the Day and Night sells for very reasonable $220. ⬩

TACS Day and Night one-handed watch case back

It's time for another Time Bum Giveaway! This month, you can win a TACS Day and Night One-handed watch. This is the very same sample from my recent review. It sells new for $220 USD.

All you need to do is click on the entry box below and follow the simple steps. A winner will be drawn after midnight July 31, 2017.

The giveaway is open to entrants at least 18 years old. Entrants are responsible for any and all duties, fees, or taxes. The giveaway is void where prohibited or restricted by law.

You must provide a valid email address for notification and must respond within 48 hours of contact or another winner will be chosen, so be sure to watch your spam filter.

Please read the full Terms and Conditions on the Giveaway page for details.

Good Luck!

Last December, I reviewed the Spinnaker Cahill, a retro-styled diving watch. I really enjoyed its Fifty Fathoms vibe, although I noted that its 43mm case was oversized for a vintage-inspired piece. Spinnaker has now addressed that issue with the release of the 38mm version, offering much of the same Cahill goodness in a smaller package. There are five versions available, including PVD black and gold cases. For this review, they sent me the blue dial, steel case, SP-5042-02.

Like its big brother, the 38mm is brushed with a polished bevel and topped with a domed Hardex mineral crystal. It is 14mm thick, which is just about 1.5mm thinner. One would hardly call it slim, but shaving that little bit off goes far to maintain proper proportion. It has a substantial, screw-down crown that is coin-edged and signed with the Spinnaker sail logo. It operates smoothly, helping to ensure a seal good for 100m water resistance.

I loved the big Cahill's domed Hardex bezel and the junior model keeps that theme but executes it differently. Aluminum replaces glass and it travels only 90 clicks as opposed to 120; however, the sexy curve remains and the action is greatly improved, delivering firm, positive clicks. The markers are printed in white and gold on a metallic blue background, a combination I found tremendously appealing, although the absence of any form of lume on the bezel limits its utility as a dive timer.

On my 6.5" wrist, the 38mm Cahill was a winner. I have more than my share of big, honking divers in my collection, and while they can be great fun, they only get to play on the weekends. This watch could be far more versatile. Obviously, if you are a big guy with a big wrist, your experience may very well be different, but thanks to its stout case and bold dial, I never felt like the watch was in any way undersized or lacking in presence.

Dial layout consists of oversized applied markers, cathedral hands, and a lollipop second hand. The hands are an interesting update on the "Mercedes" style in that the circle on the hour hand is not sectioned. Call it "de-badged Mercedes" perhaps, but I like its more modern look. The markers and hands are brushed except for the bright yellow second hand. All are filled with lume. I criticized the larger model for the markers' insufficient depth, and while I feel obligated to repeat that here, I must confess that it bothered me far less on this smaller face. The roughly textured dial is navy blue, providing a solid anchor for the brighter elements like the white and yellow index. The white date window at 3 o'clock balances well against the rectangular markers at 9 and 6 o'clock. Overall, I like the look. It maintains the boldness of the larger model, but the color choice, smaller size, and simplified hands give it its own rather appealing character. Not that the lume is merely adequate, and not very long lived.

For this version, they went for a Seiko NH35 automatic movement: 24 jewels, 21.6k bph, 40+ hour power reserve. It hacks, hand winds, and is equipped with Dishock protection. It is not decorated but it does sport a custom wave patterned rotor that you can view through the sailboat-emblazoned display case back.

The 38mm Cahill comes with on a 20mm blue suede strap with a signed buckle and just four yellow stitches for accent. I'm tempted to chide them for supplying a diving watch on a strap that is not waterproof, but this watch is more about style than utility. Don't get me wrong, the watch can certainly handle a dip, but with a timing bezel that is more form than function and a strap that would be ruined in water, it would not be my first choice for a plunge into the briny depths. On the other hand, I wouldn't hesitate to show off its nautical charm in a casual or dress-casual situation.

I applaud Spinnaker for offering my favorite watch in their collection in two sizes. The smaller Cahill does not have all the bells and whistles of the bigger model, but it possesses its own distinctive charm. It is also significantly cheaper - just $230 on spinnaker-watches.com. If that isn't enough to grab you, then use code TTB30 to take off another 30%. At that price, the 38mm Cahill is a steal. ⬩

David Campo Cárdenes of Sweden's Nezumi Studios clearly digs vintage. Nezumi's first watch, the Voiture Chronograph was a 1960's race timer for the 21st century. Now comes the Baleine, a diving watch that faithfully channels the essence of the early 1970's. Three variants are offered: a brushed case, a brushed and polished case, and a black case, all with black dials. For this review, they supplied their black prototype.

Like the Voiture, Nezumi looked to Seiko for its movement. In this case, it is the tried and true NH35 21.6k bph, 24 jewel automatic. It hacks, hand winds, and has a power reserve of over 40 hours. As it is an updated incarnation of the venerable 7s26, it has that unit's Diashock protection and reputation for reliability. The rest of the Baleine is pretty tough too: the black case wears a hard DLC coating, the crystal will be sapphire with an internal anti-reflective coating (the prototype is sapphire coated acrylic), the crown screws down, and the watch is sealed for 200m water resistance.

I have learned that raw measurements only tell part of the story of a watch's size. What may sound one way on paper may appear very different in photos, and frankly, even the pictures lie, often exaggerating size. You have to put a watch on your wrist to really understand how the myriad design choices affect the final product. The Baleine is sensibly sized at 40mm wide, 47mm long, and 14mm thick from its case back to the top of its domed crystal. That last figure makes it sound chunky, but nothing could be farther from the truth. In profile, the central section of the case appears barely larger than the crown thanks to a clean separation between the body, case back, and bezel. A character line running from lug to lug also contributes to the Baleine's long, slim look.

This is perfect for The Bum's 6.5" wrist or for anyone else who needs a break from the 42mm+ divers that currently dominate the market. I like big watches too, but I have found the mid-size ones tend to see more wrist time as I am more likely to grab one of them if I am wearing anything other than short sleeves. The Baleine fits the bill nicely, tucking neatly under a buttoned shirt cuff when required. Viewed head-on, the inward twist of the bombé lugs make them appear narrower as well. The overall effect is lean and purposeful. My only criticism is that the edges are a touch soft, almost as if it were an older watch that had been aggressively polished. This is not a deal killer, but crisper lines would have improved its definition. If this is a priority for you, David tells me the brushed and brushed/polished models will have slightly sharper edges.

Bezel is action is smooth, offering positive engagement without undue effort. (The prototype has 90 clicks, but the final will have 60.) A coin edge provides adequate grip, but like the other angles and edges on the watch, the teeth are not as crisp as I might like. While other models will have an aluminum insert, the black case has engraved, painted markings in a solid bezel. the numbers and lines are finely rendered and the paint is off-white. "Old Radium" color lume pip finishes it off. They tell me the bezel will be better on the final, but aside from some uneven paint around the "50" mark (not uncommon for a prototype), I see nothing that demands improvement.

The dial is laid out with four main numbers, dart markers, a 24-hour index, and a minute index printed on a black dial. It is a classic setup employed throughout the 1960s on diving watches from Breitling to Bulova. In fact, as I was writing this review, a friend sent me a message about the Caravelle Sea Hunter, which could almost be the Baleine's grandfather. White syringe hands and a spear-tipped second hand with a Nezumi "N" counterweight underscore the vintage look. (Note that the brushed version shares the black model's color scheme while the brushed/polished one has gold hands and white markings.)

The minute index, handset, and dial text are the same off-white as the bezel markings, and the numbers, markers, and hands all wear a creamy beige lume. I must confess it was devilishly difficult to capture the color accurately in my photos so if you look at the pictures and think "meh, white is white" you will just have to take my word for it. This combination of mellow tones imparts a pleasing, time-worn look. On production models, the white hands and date wheel numbers will also be muted a touch to better match the rest of the off-white elements. I would have liked to see a no-date option, but I appreciate the pains they have taken to integrate the 4 o'clock date window into the Baleine's face.

For dial text, we have the Nezumi logo and brand name up top, model name and water resistance below. My biggest issue is with the large "N" logo. On the prototype, it is the same width as the 12, which sounds perfectly reasonable, except the "1" has a serif. Maybe I'm crazy, but when I see something centered under a serif type 12, my brain tries to align it with the tall stem of the 1 and the broad base of the 2, without registering the space occupied by the serif. Thus, a perfectly centered element looks like it is off to the left. A smaller logo and a little more space between it and the 12 will likely break the illusion. You can see an illustration of the revised logo here.  

Lume quality was very good but given the planned change in color for the final product, it is not possible to give an accurate evaluation. Suffice to say that the prototype's green glow was quite good and they promise the production models will be even better.

Flipping the watch over reveals its stamped case back. The high relief on the logo and textured background look great, but I am told they may be reconsidering the design. Whatever they choose, I will be perfectly happy if it is executed as well as that of the prototype.

Finally, we get to the strap, and that I cannot rate at all because the prototype's black fabric is merely a placeholder and not a very good one at that as it had already begun to fray by the time it made its way to me. Buyers can choose from a 20mm black vegetable tanned leather or a black, rubber-backed nylon two-piece similar to the one pictured but made by a different factory and to a higher standard. Judging it strictly on style, I'd say the fabric strap it is an excellent complement to the black Baleine and a welcome change from the usual rubber two-piece or nylon NATO. Both straps will come with the signed, black, 18mm buckle shown here.

Overall, I found the Baleine to be a delightful watch. Nezumi has faithfully channeled the spirit of a classic diver while successfully imparting its own distinctive spin on the style. Pre-orders start at €295 (about $336 USD) excluding VAT and will increase to about €550 ($626 USD) retail. For more information or to order yours, see NezumiStudios.com. ◆

The Time Bum loves diving watches, but diving? Not so much. I'm strictly a surface-dweller. I suspect I'm not alone among dive watch fans in this regard, but for those of you are thinking about exploring the briny depths, watch and scuba enthusiast Michael DiMartini has some suggestions for the right gear to get you started.

For divers, there’s a certain method to curating dive gear for a highly-anticipated excursion. You want to find the perfect blend of practicality, performance, and style. From basics like your mask and snorkel to more high-tech accessories, this list includes all the scuba diving gear you need to strike the perfect balance between the smart and stylish.

Note that it is not necessary to buy the majority of your scuba gear since many places offer it for rent or as part of excursion packages. However, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) recommends investing in your own scuba gear as a safety precaution, since it ensures that you’re extremely familiar with your gear and that you get the perfect fit.

The Basics: Technical Gear that Every Diver Needs

Mask — As one of the most basic components of your scuba cache, your mask should be made with a tempered glass lens and have a comfortable silicone or rubber strap that you can adjust as needed. You want your mask to fit snugly; it shouldn’t be too loose or too tight. Consider picking up a mask with a purge valve to keep water out.

Snorkel — Your snorkel helps make your time at the surface of the water more enjoyable. Choosing a snorkel that fits you properly — with a comfortable mouthpiece and an adjustable attachment strap — is key to ensuring that your diving journey is smooth and safe.

Fins — Make sure that when you’re shopping for fins, you look for diving-specific styles. Unlike snorkeling or swimming fins, diving fins are more agile and comfortable in order to compensate for the extra weight and bulk of diving gear.

Wetsuit— A good diver’s gear adjusts with the environment. For example, if you’re diving in cold waters, you’ll need a full-body wetsuit (also called a steamer) with special waterproof seals to keep you warm and dry. The right wetsuit will keep you warm while also protecting your skin from stings and scratches.

Scuba Tank — You’re going to need a tank if you intend to plunge past the surface! A good scuba tank is compact yet high-volume, holding enough compressed gas to allow you to breathe during longer dives. Scuba tanks are generally made of aluminum alloy or steel so that they endure in demanding environments.

Buoyancy Control Device (BCD) — A BCD (also referred to as a buoyancy compensator or a stabilizer) is a device that’s used to help you maintain control in the water. It uses an inflatable bladder that lets you adjust your buoyancy levels as needed. Most also hold your tank. Pair your BCD with a weight system for more control in the water.

Regulator — Your diving regulator is the device that allows you to breathe underwater. These components deliver air from your scuba tank to your mouth, allowing you to breathe normally beneath the surface. This part links to your tank, BCD and submersible pressure gauge.

Submersible Pressure Gauge (SPD) — Your SPD is an essential piece of gear that lets you know how much air is left in the tank. This allows you to closely monitor air levels so that you can dive at safe depths without getting too low. Some dive computers have built-in SPDs so you can skip this part if you’re diving with an SPD-equipped computer.

Safety Equipment — All divers should only embark on an adventure when they have the proper safety equipment in hand. In some areas, it’s required by law to fly a dive flag to signify to boats that you’re diving. You will also want to keep a signaling device — generally a waterproof, high-visibility flag or an audible option such as a whistle or horn — with you so that you’re prepared in the unlikely event of an emergency. It’s also helpful to keep a stash of safety-focused diving tools on hand if things go sideways.

Accessories that Go Deep and Add Style

A Solid Diving Watch— Since Rolex invented the Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch, in 1926, diving watches have come a long way. Rolex still dominates in the industry, but there are plenty of other diving watch makers to look out for if you’re on a budget. You want to ensure that your dive watch is depth-rated to at least 330 feet (100 meters). You can also choose one with extra diving features, like depth gauges and compasses.

A Hard-Wearing Watch Band— If you want to take your expensive or vintage dive watch with you on your deep-sea journey, make sure you equip it with a band that can handle the depths. Choose a water-resistant diving watch band made from vulcanized rubber to ensure all-day comfort and performance during the deepest dives. Look for bands that feature a tang buckle for a customized fit.

A Reliable Dive Light — Whether you’re diving at night or find yourself in deep and dark waters or caverns, a good-quality scuba light can help you navigate and read your gauges. You don’t want to explore the depths of the sea with any old flashlight. Pick a diving-specific light with a watertight, pressure-proof design. LED lights are a good choice because they last longer, but you’ll get more brightness from a HID style.

Luggage and Cargo Carriers — Dive bags are unique in that they must be able to handle a wide range of demands, from air travel to deep-sea dives. These cargo carriers often feature built-in handles and wheels for easy navigation and have reinforced materials to keep them in good shape while carting heavyweight gear. Some also have corrosion-proof hardware and drainage holes for eliminating excess water.

A Comfortable Diving Parka — If you’ve ever been on a dive in moderate or chilly weather, you know how valuable a good dive parka can be. These loose-fitting accessories fit over your bulky diving gear to provide you with instant warmth and protection as soon as you get out of the water. Pick one with toasty polar fleece lining for additional warmth. ⬩

Michael DiMartini serves as the CEO and designer for Everest Bands. He oversees marketing expansion as well as new product development and design from the Everest Headquarters in St. Louis, MO. Years of enthusiasm, design, and hands-on production management in the watch industry have cultivated his already existing passion for watches and fashion.

What's new on Kickstarter? Well, we've got a slick modern piece from Bólido, a lovely new dress watch from Whytes, a Seiko homage from TC-9, and because it's Kickstarter, we also have something completely stupid. Read on.

Bólido

Ok, I'll admit I almost missed this one, but fans of unique modern design watches should definitely check out the Bólido before the campaign ends this week. The watch features a futuristic, 43mm, lugless monocoque case with a 12 o'clock crown position, and an asymmetric shape that tilts the dial towards the viewer. Inside, beats a regulated and decorated Swiss ST-1 automatic movement. I love the clean, modern graphics of the dial and the fact that they did not shy away from color, offering bright yellow, blood red, and a warm gray in addition to the usual black or white. The Bólido is water resistant to 100M and comes on a rubber strap with a flip-lock clasp. You can still get one for CHF 450 (about $465 USD), but you'd better act fast as the campaign ends Saturday, July 15.

Whytes Watches

Back in 2015, I admired the elegant design of the Whytes Discoverer series. Now, they are back to celebrate Canada's 150th birthday with the new150M, a large (43mm), open-heart dress watch with a Miyota 82S7 automatic movement. The watch is water resistant to 200m and equipped with sapphire crystals so it is tough as well as pretty, They offer four variants, all featuring applied index rings around the Miyota's distinctive off-center sub-dials, applied markers, and diamond cut hands. Recognizing the watch nerd compulsion to swap, Whytes offers a selection of quick release leather straps, all of which are extra long. This does little for small wristed guys like myself but makes good sense for anyone large enough to carry off a 43mm dress watch. The 150M is available on Kickstarter now for as low as $279 CAD (about $215 USD).

TC-9

Last year, TC-9 launched the 1970's Diver, a Seiko 6150 homage rendered in a very un-Seiko bronze case that I took a particular shine to. This time, they are taking a more traditional approach, releasing that watch in brushed stainless and PVD black cases. Like the bronze version, the watches are 44mm wide, have sapphire crystals front and rear, are water resistant to 300m, and use the Seiko automatic movements, in this case, the NH45A. 1970's Diver early bird pricing starts at just £175 (about $226 USD).

Fidget Watch

No, not a watch but a fidget spinner on a strap. That's it. According to the campaign, the Fidget Watch was designed to solve the "problem" of fidget spinner transportation. Thank God they tackled that one - now they can address world peace and cure cancer. It's $28 bucks or $57 if you want a red one. So far, there are only ten people in the world willing to buy one of these, which almost reaffirms my faith in humanity. ⬩

Photos courtesy of the manufacturers.

CJR does not make predictable watches. Their first effort, the Velocita, was a huge bullhead chronograph in a spaceframe case. The second was the sleek and inventive Airspeed regulator, with its unique, wafer-thin case sandwiched between two massive crystals that effectively serve as the outer structure of the case. Now, they are introducing the flamboyant Commander, featuring a Miyota skeleton movement under an Airspeed-style dome.

In many ways, the Commander is an evolution of the Airspeed. Like the earlier model, its front and rear mineral crystals fit right to the edge, although the Commander's case is thicker and more conventional than the Airspeed's slim steel ring. Also, like the Airspeed, the expansive domes allow the pop of color from the O-ring seals to show through, turning these normally hidden, strictly utilitarian components into a unique design feature.

CJR initially used mineral crystal on the Airspeed prototypes, then switched to Hestilite for production. I thought this was a good idea as the domes would be susceptible to impact damage that could be polished out of acrylic. It also had the added benefit of imparting a warm vintage look. According to the press information, they have reverted to mineral glass for the Commander, so I must repeat the criticism from my earlier review. A crystal this exposed is bound to pick up nicks and scratches and there will be no way to address them short of replacement.

The case has polished sides and the tops of the lugs are brushed. Considering that it measures 45mm wide, nearly 51mm long, and over 16mm thick, you would expect it to be a big honking thing, but those dramatic see-through curves mask its size rather convincingly. A thicker barrel and conventional lugs make the Commander appear larger on the wrist than the slimmer, wire-lugged Airspeed, but only slightly. The push-pull crown is conical, wider at the base and narrowing to a clipped-off flat top that is unsigned. Operation is easy. Water resistance is just 30m/100feet.

There isn't much of a dial on the Commander, but what exists is intricate. Two sections of honeycomb mesh bridge a perimeter ring with applied markers and a recessed minute index. Beneath that is a slotted, semi-circular border for the 24-hour register and a ring around the small seconds bearing the names of the watch and its movement It all frames a decorated, modified, and skeletonized Miyota 82S7 automatic (21 jewels, 21.6k bph). Some of the ornamentation is expected, like the Geneva stripes and custom rotor, but then it gets a little weird. A transparent 24-hour disk is marked in red, and the small seconds disk is a gold turbine fan. Both registers are accented with asymmetrical black and white windows with gold screws. It's not terribly functional, but it's definitely different.

Speaking of not functional, if you look closely where the dome meets the case, you will discover a seconds track that appears to be printed directly on the case. Between the crystal's edge distortion and the red O-ring's reflection, it is nearly illegible; however, it doesn't matter because there is no second hand and the index markers are miles from the minute hand. You couldn't use it if you wanted to. I have no idea why they did this.

Although secondary functions are compromised, primary timekeeping is not. The handset is offbeat; semi-skeletonized rocket shapes filled with SuperLuminova and tipped in red. Funky as they may be, they are also highly legible, and even at night.

The Commander comes on a 22mm matte black leather strap, thick and straight with a single short row of red stitching at the top and matching red paint on its edges. It has a signed buckle and quick release pins. I found it to be comfortable and thought it worked well on the watch but given the Commander's tech-fashion leanings I might be inclined to try something more tailored, perhaps in a carbon fiber pattern to play off the aviation theme.

After a week with the Commander, I still love the twin dome case, both for its originality and its stunning good looks. It is one of the most innovative and striking designs I've seen. On the other hand, the dial is far too fussy and fanciful for my liking. SevenFriday fans who are looking for a different sort of fashion statement will likely love it, but I'm still hoping CJR will one day pair their unique case construction with a more traditional dial.

The CJR Commander launches on Kickstarter July 11. Super Early Bird prices start at $449, Early Birds get in for $475. For more information or to place an order, see the CJR Commander Kickstarter page or http://commander.cjrwatches.com.

Hemel popped up last year with the popular HM-1 field watches. Their clean execution, nuanced case design, and attractive prices instantly put them among my favorites. Today, Hemel opened orders for the HFT20 Flight Series, a tasteful homage to jet age pilot's chronographs offered in two distinct styles and with a choice of automatic or quartz movements.

Hemel's creator, Marvin Menke is an experienced designer and long time aviation enthusiast. He sought inspiration in the Breuget/Dodane Type 20 and the HFT20 carries many of their cues, but to my eye, I see more than a little of the beefier Heuer Bundeswehr here. Whichever way you care to view it, this vintage military look is a very good thing. These watches served the French and German air forces in the 60s and 70s, and they are high on my list of grail watches, but as I watch their prices climb north of $5,000, I have to accept that they are likely to remain aspirational items for good while longer. The HFT20 convincingly channels the spirit of those watches while incorporating enough of its own contemporary design elements to stand on its own.

The HFT20 features two registers, a rotating bezel, slim sword hands, and a white-on-black partial Arabic dial. A bright orange sweep hand provides a pop of color on the otherwise martial face. Of course, a tool watch is of little use if you can't see it in the dark, so the markers and hands are treated with C3 SuperLuminova. The text is sparse, just Hemel at the top and if you chose the automatic, it will say so at the bottom. Quartz models do without.

The brushed stainless steel case measures 42mm wide, 16mm thick, and 49mm from lug to tapered lug. A beveled edge along the length of the watch dresses it up a touch. Its threaded case back is decorated with the series, model name, and specs. It's not fancy, but clean and purposeful. Up front, it wears a flat sapphire crystal.

Its crown and pushers are brilliantly rendered. Unlike the Bund's unadorned bits, the HFT20's crown is a deeply fluted diamond shape signed with the Hemel "H" logo, and the pusher heads have a crosshatch texture similar to that found on compressor case watches. The crown does not screw down has sufficient seal for 100m water resistance.

Now we get to the bezels, which are perhaps the most fun part of this watch. There are three to choose from: 60-minute black ceramic, 12-hour stainless GMT, and a new optional Standard in unmarked stainless with a coin edge. All are 120-click units with orange triangles at top center. The ceramic has the most Bund to it but the shiny black surface and filled, engraved numbers make it far prettier and more modern than the one on the vintage watch. The engraved and brushed GMT bezel evokes those on certain Breguet/Dodane Type 20 models, and also adds a useful lume pip. The Standard bezel has only a triangle and lume pip, and its Spartan bearing takes the watch in an entirely different direction. Can't choose? Then order one of each. Extra bezels are $40 and may be swapped by the owner (at their own risk).

The two movements are well known to microbrand fans. A Seiko VK64 Mechaquartz is the value leader. This movement marries a quartz timekeeper to a mechanical chronograph module for a smooth 1/5 second sweep and crisp snap back on reset. For those with a slightly higher budget and an affinity for mechanicals, the Seiko NE88 automatic is the best choice. This 34 jewel unit beats at 28.8k bph, hacks, hand winds, and has a power reserve of over 45 hours.

You would expect a retro pilot's watch to have a traditional pilot's strap and that is precisely what the Hemel delivers. The 20mm distressed cognac leather has steel rivets and a buckle that is signed on either side instead of across the top of the frame as usual.

The Hemel HFT20 automatic will sell for $999.99, and the Mechaquartz for $449.99, but early birds ordering before August 11 can use code HF40 to take 40% off, dropping prices to an extremely attractive $599.99 and $269.40, respectively. If that doesn't tempt you, then consider that 5% of your purchase will go to your choice of three charities: Toys for Tots, Wounded Warriors, or the Bob Woodruff Foundation. For more information or to place an order, see HemelWatches.com. ⬩

Photos courtesy of Hemel

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